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Of the 3 vids like this on youtube, this is the one that worked for me. (even though you didn't film the most important part lol) Put 2 little pieces of tape over the 2 vent ports so battery acid doesn't leak out while you have the battery on its side. (and pull them off when you are finished.)
Great video. I absolutely cannot believe a college educated automotive engineer decided that this was an appropriate place to mount the battery. I can't believe someone relatively intelligent thought 'Hmm, is it a problem that they need to remove 5 other bolts and one bit of the engine compartment frame and the fucking fuse box to get at the battery, a part that will need to be replaced several times in the lifespan of the car? Nah, that's a perfect good spot for it to just barely squeeze into.' Design this bad should be illegal. Mechanics should be allowed to beat engineers to within an inch of their life using all of disassembled pieces of any common repair.
Why do you do the positive first? If the negative was still connected and the ratchet bumps up against the metal frame of the car while you are loosening the positive clamp, wouldn't it arc where as with the negative first it wouldn't?
I was going to complain about the magic trick of getting the battery out and putting the new one in but I see some others already covered that. I'm headed out now to see if I can wrestle this thing out of there.
Agreed that's the hardest part of the job. You have to tilt it up on its end to get it out and back in. Easier to reach around and under the rad hose also when putting it back in. Either way good vid for access... it's a poor design and should be easier to get at, GMs way of back rubbing the shops.. Not as bad as 01 300M though lol
@@Coatsy71 How is he supposed to film that? The battery weighs about 30 pounds, and needs to be lifted at a 45 degree angle. He didn't have a crew and tripod and all that high end stuff. I could figure out what he meant by tilt it. Then you pull really hard and force it past the wires. Duh.
Thank you for being the only man to help me change my battery. Your video was perfect step by step. I couldn't have done it without you. PS.....I did it with lashes on 😹
You're right, people need to know that tipping the battery sideways will not cause the acid to flow out. I wonder if removing the radiator hose would allow you to remove the battery without turning it 90 degrees. Only car I've ever seen where you turn the battery up on end to remove and replace.
@jayharlan823 the radiator house being out of the way would help but then you'd have coolant spilling all over the place and have to replace some. Not hard but adds more to the job.
On the new 2014 Impala in up and with the new body design, the battery is located on the driver side. If the car is fully loaded there will be a plastic shield covering the positive post and when you lift that cover there is a small panel with around 5 wires connected to it. You have to on -snap that panel then you can remove the battery Cable from the positive post. What you are showing here is not even close to the new model. There is an ECM module hanging off the side of that battery that is what is tie in with that small panel next to the positive cable that is covered by that plastic shield.
Do I need to reprogram the PCM letting it know new battery installed? I replaced mine but since then I can not communicate with PCM through the OBD2 port!
It is a bad design from GM, it can be a real hassle to change the battery, I had broke both of my hands the year earlier and I had to have a shop by me change it for me.
I would have like to have seen the part where you pull the battery out, or put it in, that's where I'm having the problem... I already did all that other stuff. GRRRR. Maybe I need a crowbar :D
Changed a battery today on a 2012 Impala...pain in the ass. Battery replacement shouldn't be this hard. I changed out the coolant and I had to bend the metal lip near the petcock in order to loosen it enough to open the valve for the coolant to drain. Stupid engineering.
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Hey Everyone if my Channel Helps you save some money, please consider a small donation via these links / addresses
Paypal.me/GearmoAuto
VENMO- @Gearmo-Auto
CASH APP - $GearmoAuto
CRYPTO- 34d49fai2nN4LzACynSjRhnbmugP6AuExD
I would love to make more content with better quality to help everyone save money and time. Thank you!
Of the 3 vids like this on youtube, this is the one that worked for me. (even though you didn't film the most important part lol)
Put 2 little pieces of tape over the 2 vent ports so battery acid doesn't leak out while you have the battery on its side.
(and pull them off when you are finished.)
Good tip, and I agree: the most important part was left out.
Great video. I absolutely cannot believe a college educated automotive engineer decided that this was an appropriate place to mount the battery. I can't believe someone relatively intelligent thought 'Hmm, is it a problem that they need to remove 5 other bolts and one bit of the engine compartment frame and the fucking fuse box to get at the battery, a part that will need to be replaced several times in the lifespan of the car? Nah, that's a perfect good spot for it to just barely squeeze into.'
Design this bad should be illegal. Mechanics should be allowed to beat engineers to within an inch of their life using all of disassembled pieces of any common repair.
This was done On purpose. Increases Labor Time
Agreed. What the F for real.
This really helped, especially by showing that we should unscrew the fuse box. It wasn't clear whether to remove that, or something else.
GM Engineers must thke Pride in making simple Jobs Difficult
Why do you do the positive first? If the negative was still connected and the ratchet bumps up against the metal frame of the car while you are loosening the positive clamp, wouldn't it arc where as with the negative first it wouldn't?
yes!!!!!
The rule is negative off first and negative on last.
Thank you! The change out went exactly as you outlined.
Excellent tutorial, clear and understandable. Thank you.
Thanks..this worked great with my 2013.
I was going to complain about the magic trick of getting the battery out and putting the new one in but I see some others already covered that. I'm headed out now to see if I can wrestle this thing out of there.
Always remove negative first and replace it last. The red cover is for protection not weather
Thank you for posting this video! You just made my life 10x easier.
thumbs down for cutting out actually taking out the battery.
Exactly
Yeah what an idiot
Agreed that's the hardest part of the job. You have to tilt it up on its end to get it out and back in. Easier to reach around and under the rad hose also when putting it back in. Either way good vid for access... it's a poor design and should be easier to get at, GMs way of back rubbing the shops.. Not as bad as 01 300M though lol
@@Coatsy71 How is he supposed to film that? The battery weighs about 30 pounds, and needs to be lifted at a 45 degree angle. He didn't have a crew and tripod and all that high end stuff. I could figure out what he meant by tilt it. Then you pull really hard and force it past the wires. Duh.
@@karldavis7392 Tripods are cheap af
Thank you for being the only man to help me change my battery. Your video was perfect step by step. I couldn't have done it without you. PS.....I did it with lashes on 😹
You should have shown us you removing the battery
You're right, people need to know that tipping the battery sideways will not cause the acid to flow out. I wonder if removing the radiator hose would allow you to remove the battery without turning it 90 degrees. Only car I've ever seen where you turn the battery up on end to remove and replace.
@jayharlan823 the radiator house being out of the way would help but then you'd have coolant spilling all over the place and have to replace some. Not hard but adds more to the job.
Thank you! I was two 11mm from figuring it out.
Thanks for the video...it helped a lot.
On the new 2014 Impala in up and with the new body design, the battery is located on the driver side. If the car is fully loaded there will be a plastic shield covering the positive post and when you lift that cover there is a small panel with around 5 wires connected to it. You have to on -snap that panel then you can remove the battery Cable from the positive post. What you are showing here is not even close to the new model. There is an ECM module hanging off the side of that battery that is what is tie in with that small panel next to the positive cable that is covered by that plastic shield.
Absolutely correct! My 2014 Impala 2LT is like you described, not like the video.
Do I need to reprogram the PCM letting it know new battery installed? I replaced mine but since then I can not communicate with PCM through the OBD2 port!
That damn fuse cover. Should've watched this before the headache 😅
Thanks!!! Worked out perfectly!
+Trenna Springer Awsome. Thanks for the comment and for Watching!
+Trenna Springer Awsome. Thanks for the comment and for Watching!
Always disconnect negative first and connect it last,..
What do you do when the back bolt on the bar is rusted and won’t unscrew?
Woulda liked to watch you wrestle with actually removing that battery!
Idk about you guys but all l got was “make sure you tip it sideways”
Do an alternator 2012-2013 impala
Thanks for this!
It is a bad design from GM, it can be a real hassle to change the battery, I had broke both of my hands the year earlier and I had to have a shop by me change it for me.
I would have like to have seen the part where you pull the battery out, or put it in, that's where I'm having the problem... I already did all that other stuff. GRRRR. Maybe I need a crowbar :D
What a pain to replace just a battery.
Just did mine. Watch a b&$@&$ of a battery.
+Rob H haha ya not the quixkest
Why not show yourself pulling battery out or putting in.
Changed a battery today on a 2012 Impala...pain in the ass. Battery replacement shouldn't be this hard. I changed out the coolant and I had to bend the metal lip near the petcock in order to loosen it enough to open the valve for the coolant to drain. Stupid engineering.
2014 impala isn’t designed like that
DARREL JOHNSON thanks bro thought the same instantly, by any chance did you find anything for 2014 impala on how to get it out?
Here is the correct way for a 2014 Impala. www.paulstravelpictures.com/2014-2018-Chevrolet-Impala-12V-Automotive-Battery-Replacement-Guide/
This is a 2014 they still making them do some research before y'all go telling people it's not
2014 with V6 is like the video
It's a Impala "limited" Old style, they make two different impala's limited is the Fleet vehicle, rental cars, Taxis and police
2015 Impala looks nothing like this!
I have a 2015 and it looks exactly like it. That is why I chose this video.
Changed one out a 2013 today. 10min job took me 30mins! Idiotic design, who designs something like this? Smh😣👎
Chevy is an idiot for this design
Seriously this thing is a pain in the a$$
You just lied all across the board huh
positive first? no - ratchet hitting frame will spark!
You always remove the ground first.
@@jayharlan823 you are right i wrote it wrong , i was upset since he did it wrong, neg to ground is ok, and then wont spark taking positive