for the comparsion, a more fair thing for the fake buggy motor is to allow it to run for a bit. Like a continuous run for 1-2h in each direction with a smal to medium load. New components have irregularities and imperfections that smoother out after a running in time. Like cars or model trains. That could smoth out some perfomance iregularities. I say that because Im sure that your buggy motor isnt new. So it has aready have some internal wear that allows for smother operation. Other thing that would be nice for comparsion is a voltemeter and amperemeter setup so we can see the real current draw. It can easily be done by cuting an chinese PF extension cord and adding a voltmeter/amperemeter combo in between. Its not hard and it would improve greatly the range of test you can perform. Since It allows for more types of test. (For example moving a lot of gears with a cluch in the end so the motor has to work agains the reduction ratio, the friction between the gears and the cluch itself. This creates a constant load that can be measured with the setup Im talking you about. Since you can compare the current draw at various voltages, creating a table of perfomance. If you have any questions on how to do it, feel free to contact me!
Great points on giving it some run-in time and on the constant load. I will update on the motor in the future video, and see if we can take more measurements. Hopefully it will have run-in a bit more by then too. Cheers!
I saw them everywhere, I was wondering if the tech of fake from 2020 could be better than a pretty old but real motor. Sadly it doesn't feel like it's any better
Nah, I don't think "better" is what you should expect from the fake: barring any reliability issues, it seems like a reasonable, acceptable alternative considering the real ones are 5x the price. It's definitely better than 1/5 the quality!
Typically it's in the middle of the torque curve for electric motors, but yes, that is correct. We have a newer video about graphing entire curves with a Prony Brake: ruclips.net/video/PpSth2KxwGM/видео.html
If you use strong batteries on the battery boxes it gives the motor more power from what I have noticed and I only trust one person on alie express to get fake motors
they are good motors i bought some but a warning you cant use them for remote control sets with a standard battery box because it cant supple enough power tothe reciver and the motor
I bought 1 from mouldking and they SUCK. Can drive for 30 seconds then it stops and have to wait a minut to drive again. Which then stops again after 30 seconds and so on.
@@NonsenseWars Yea I managed to fix it. I openend up to black plastic compartment where the electic motor is and removed the thermic fuse. Then soldered the wire directly to the electric motor. Somehow the fuse was tripping even when the electric motor was not hot at all.
for the comparsion, a more fair thing for the fake buggy motor is to allow it to run for a bit. Like a continuous run for 1-2h in each direction with a smal to medium load. New components have irregularities and imperfections that smoother out after a running in time. Like cars or model trains. That could smoth out some perfomance iregularities. I say that because Im sure that your buggy motor isnt new. So it has aready have some internal wear that allows for smother operation.
Other thing that would be nice for comparsion is a voltemeter and amperemeter setup so we can see the real current draw. It can easily be done by cuting an chinese PF extension cord and adding a voltmeter/amperemeter combo in between. Its not hard and it would improve greatly the range of test you can perform. Since It allows for more types of test. (For example moving a lot of gears with a cluch in the end so the motor has to work agains the reduction ratio, the friction between the gears and the cluch itself. This creates a constant load that can be measured with the setup Im talking you about. Since you can compare the current draw at various voltages, creating a table of perfomance.
If you have any questions on how to do it, feel free to contact me!
Great points on giving it some run-in time and on the constant load. I will update on the motor in the future video, and see if we can take more measurements. Hopefully it will have run-in a bit more by then too. Cheers!
@@NonsenseWars its been a couple months, have you tested the motors again?
My first lego comparison video.
I saw them everywhere, I was wondering if the tech of fake from 2020 could be better than a pretty old but real motor. Sadly it doesn't feel like it's any better
Nah, I don't think "better" is what you should expect from the fake: barring any reliability issues, it seems like a reasonable, acceptable alternative considering the real ones are 5x the price. It's definitely better than 1/5 the quality!
nice, are you able to test the generic pf m,l and xl as well?
Yes! We want to look at some, just haven't been able to get our hands on anything yet. Coming Soon TM!
there is a peak power output for DC motors, you need to find the best rpm(optimal load), by changing weights.
Typically it's in the middle of the torque curve for electric motors, but yes, that is correct. We have a newer video about graphing entire curves with a Prony Brake: ruclips.net/video/PpSth2KxwGM/видео.html
All my test with my 9v train controller.
And my PF rechargeable box.
If you use strong batteries on the battery boxes it gives the motor more power from what I have noticed and I only trust one person on alie express to get fake motors
they are good motors i bought some but a warning you cant use them for remote control sets with a standard battery box because it cant supple enough power tothe reciver and the motor
Yeah, I haven't run mine too much since they overpower standard PF equipment, but so far it has been trouble free!
I bought 1 from mouldking and they SUCK. Can drive for 30 seconds then it stops and have to wait a minut to drive again. Which then stops again after 30 seconds and so on.
Interesting; thanks for sharing. I am curious to test one now XD
@@NonsenseWars Yea I managed to fix it. I openend up to black plastic compartment where the electic motor is and removed the thermic fuse. Then soldered the wire directly to the electric motor. Somehow the fuse was tripping even when the electric motor was not hot at all.
Its expensive
I saw Chinese one on AliExpress for 7.5$, and it is the same one that was in video, but for 17$
I saw "BM" just for 7.5$ on aliexpress
Upd: i bought and tested them, they are awesome
@@PoweredUP_ Really? Can you provide me the link?