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Powerful Cooler Box - DIY Peltier Freezer
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2017
- This is how to make a powerful thermoelectric cooler box. It was able to reach -7°C in just 10 minutes. This is great results as I was only able to reach 0°C in my previous attempt. I love peltier projects, I find them very interesting and if you would like to join me, go ahead and pick up the necessary components here:
BIG heatsink: goo.gl/gFi6e4
200W peltier: goo.gl/424CNx
Fan: goo.gl/jKJ3tR
Small heatsink: goo.gl/95fw6L
Temperature controller: goo.gl/DwLWtJ
Hinge STL: goo.gl/jYk6nP
The setup is highly inefficient running at 10A. You could save a signifcant amount of power by going nuts with the insulation and therefore take advantage of the temperature controller and use it to turn the peltier on or off at a set temperature. I was using thick 30mm foam, but in order to avoid too big of a mess I later changed to 6mm depron foam. It might not be as good of a insulator, but it is more stiff which might be valuable.
My Favourite 3D Printer:
Creality CR-10 Golden: goo.gl/L2UayK
Creality CR-10 Blue: goo.gl/xMBWCj
Follow Simon Sörensen:
Facebook: / rclifeon
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![The best (cheap) Peltier module [test 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WIf339WNyOo/mqdefault.jpg)
Peltier elements are usually designed to reach a 40 C temperature gradient between the two faces. You managed to get 38 C difference which is actually very good. If you want a lower temperature, you need to put 2 or more Peltier elements in series. Nice stuff!
Great video. Never thought one can reach as low as -7 degree with peltier thermocouple.
Man, thanks God I found your channel! :) I opened aroun 10 tabs in my browser to see just a part of your projects portfolio. I was using recomendations from YT during watching videos, and opening new and new tabs. :D
The way that you spread the "Thermal Compound" on your first project was correct,but should have used abit more. Putting a "Pea" size ball in the center and pressing the Peltier Device down will not spread it evenly completely or will not guarantee complete coverage of the Peltier Device's hot side or cold side. The surfaces must be covered completely for maximum cooling and heat removal!!!
i've assembled dozens of pc in the past and that's how i applied the thermal paste. i don't know if there's any new method today but imo the reason why it's the best way is that it will guarantees 100% thermal contact (not surface contact) without any bubble, but of course if you managed to cover the whole surface it will be ideal. i really don't see any other ways are bad, as long as the paste cover most of the surfaces around 95%, you're good to go. most method will cover all the surface as long as they apply enough pressure to the plate. it's all about heat transfer efficiency.
the only concern i have with this build is the door placement. i'd rather put the door on top of the box to minimize the cold air "leakage" when you open the door. i'm not expert on this, but i always imagining cold air is just like water. it goes down to the low places. so, if you open the side door, i kinda "see" the cold air immediately pouring out. but it's a design issue, the concept still works.
Thermal grease application: It doesn't bloody matter, anyone who says it does is an amateur who has never tried an alternative. All that matters is there isn't too much (oozing out the sides), and there isn't too little (i.e., you need full coverage of the CPU/peltier etc.)
air pockets do matter
You literally said it doesn't matter and then said it matters
Spreading paste creates air bubbles which means less thermal transfer. It works, but its much more inefficient. Using a pea sized bit of thermal paste will ensure it spreads evenly and equally, along with no bubbles to speak of. And also, even if the paste does ooze off to the sides, it won't hurt it. Too much paste will go off to the sides, and too little will reduce thermal transfer. So unless you are using the verge's method of applying thermal paste, it won't affect the temps if you use a bit too much.
When you turn unit off, inside temp is -7 degrees. Now ambient air heats external heatsink and transfers heat energy through peltier device back into your coolbox. Want proof? disconnect x4 heatsink when you disconnect power. Now coolbox stays colder after 30 minutes. Great video mate and thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work
Now this is fantastic! I saw an old but still useful Waeco cool box on ebay, well it use to be a compressor fridge which had all the parts removed because the compressor is damaged. Could use this to bring it back to life as a thermoelectric cooler. Thanks showing this project!
good job, though I wonder how the inside fan will cope with the inevitable condensation on switch off.
"Inspire and have a lot of fun!" I like that, thank you!
Thanks guy, you do wonderful job, very clear and so professional when you do a presentation of the subject. Keep on body. Great job !!!
I love your channel man, you have given me the inspiration to get into 3d printing, and I am now in love with peltier modules as well you're awesome keep it up!!
hey, your worst insulation is that plexi door.. if you use a thick bread of clear silicone around the perimeter, and use a second sheet of plexi. it traps air, makes a double glazed panel.. much better.
and if you use a couple of led ribbon into the edge of the awesome sheet, it will light up the wording in an awesome way ;)
Yeah thanks for your suggestions! I was using 4mm acrylic, but maybe 2x 2mm sheets would actually work better? Or why not just go with 2x 4mm sheets!
RCLifeOn *testing required* but I reckon 2*2mm with an air gap would be an improvement over 1*4mm - 2*4mm would probably be better but 3x2mm or even 4xv.thin probably better still
It may well be too that you'd get better results using v.thin styrofoam or even rubber foam than air but the ability to see through is often an important consideration that overrides thermal efficiency
Thanks though for the great video!
Well, how you apply thermal paste doesn't matter at all. Linus tech tips did a video about it. The only difference is if you apply too much or too little. So you're not right, but not wrong either :)
Linus tech tips did a video on it and said that the best way is to make a pea sized drop.
But that video is about two years old, don't know about his newer ones
Maybe they said that, I don't remember, but there was no difference at all as long as you didn't apply too little or too much.
Anton Hylander well that is true also the thermal compound matters too but if I recall when he did another one of these he put a crapload of compound which is worse than too little.
Linus Tech tips is horrible for such things. Sorry but there are so many screw ups when it comes to temperature stuff. Like measuring the surface temperature of the case instead of the insides....
LOL! @Anton Hylander is correct. For a non-intricate piece of electronic material, such as peltier, as long as you get enough thermal paste spread evenly all over its surface, it's perfectly fine. Also, just in case some people commented to use a particular brand of thermal compound, well, it doesn't really matter (NOT a big deal) what brand of thermal paste we need use. An experiment done by a computer tech concludes that the temp difference of using the cheapest and pricey thermal compound is just around 2 to 3 Celcius.
thanks man and you do, "i dont speak swidish and english also" but yeah you inspire me to begin some projects ( 3D prints and electronics ) you are awesome thanks again :)
Great video! I'm also working on making a cloud chamber which means I need to see the lowest temperature that I can get. I did some experiments with 12706, 12709 and 12710. The lowest temperature with a heatsink with 4 copper pipes and 2 fans is -30°C. But you can do better by stacking them. I'm using 12710 on the bottom and running it with 12V and the top one is 12709 which is running with 5V. The result is -35°C. If you give too much current, the produced heat also heats them. If you have an oscillator, you may try the voltage/current ratios and find a way better solution (unfortunately I don't have one, I couldn't try it). Another good way is the cooling down the hot heatsink, not with air but with water or something do not freeze in those temperatures. If you use ice to cool down the heatsink you may easily see -50°C. What I think is that using the second cooler to cool down the main one with liquid cooling. So if you cool down the main heatsink to -10°C, you'll probably see -55°C and so on. I'm gonna try that soon and hope these ideas also help to someone. Keep up with good work!
Wow! I am just getting into TEC and looking for more people to join my Facebook group to share their research etc. with Thermal tech.
facebook.com/groups/TEFENsTech
turk var turk as bayraklari as
How could I calculate the necessary Amp for a 12715?
In an experimental way, you just need to test it. You can also try square wave signals with a particular frequency.
That's a clever thought. I might try that one (y).
+RCLifeOn You should do a huge video where you show every bit of tech you own.(RC's,Printers,Tools,and such)
In my opinion it should be for a 100K Subscriber Special.
Hey, I really like understanding Heat insulation efficiency in a forge wall, that stops over 2000 degrees passing through the forge wall, and stops it from melting a 2 mm outer casing. Excellent for thermal efficiency. It will help in knowing thermal efficiency for keeping something really freezing cold. Good luck.
Even though your comment section seems to be full of weird people your videos are amazing and I keep looking forward to seeing more
What if you used a bi-metal Clad heat sink and no thermal paste?? I would think you could achieve a lower temp. I could send you a sample.
Hi Eric. Can you provide more details on using no thermal paste. Would appreciate. Thanks
you are awesome man I am really impressed with your projects keep it up m8... 🤗🤗🤗
That was awesome. Looking forward to whatever your planned Peltier project is.
Simply just desired to tell you Now i am thankful that i happened upon your video.
Any information on the power supply? I can't find it in the "parts" section of the description :-)
10A with 200Watts means at least a 300 Watts power supply?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC100-240V-TO-DC-12V-2A-3A-5A-6A-8A-10A-LED-Power-Supply-Transformer-Adapter-UK/172768516266?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=471555836733&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Just get one of these and no need for 200W peltier, 60W will be enough for small fridge. For 60W peltier get 6A 72W power supply.
Power supply for 12706 is 5 amps (60 watts peltier).
9:40 why is it on???
Pizza med Banansmak no he switched it on look at the plug light. It's so he can see the led LED splay
hmm i think cheating!
George Elsham but I mean that it had already gone like 15 minutes and it was on. Before he turns it on to see the display
Pizza med Banansmak he's looking at how long the cold takes to make an equilibrium with the air trmperature
Pizza med Banansmak yeah i know he switches it on to cool it down as much as possible, switches it off and waits and switches back on to compare temperature read on the display. The display or cooler won't work if power is not on 🙂
That was cool! The worst part of the insulation is likely the door. Even though it's very nice looking - it's just a thin layer of acrylic. You can try to change the design so that you have the door on top of the box. That way you will at least minimize the convection on the outside that transfers a lot of heat to the door.
You really inspired me to make one and you are the best you tuber ever to me and you do great things and you are wanting to become better at what you do and you will.
can u plz elaborate explanation related to the power supply used
It was from the Tevis tarantula 3D printer
I could use your knowledge in this department. I'm making a cloud chamber for alpha particle detection and would like to use peltier coolers rather than dry ice for obvious reasons. Have you ever reached -30c and if so, what was your setup? Thank you.
canadiandude7 I'd really like to see a follow-up on your cloud chamber. Hope you find the answers you're looking for so you can share your creation.
@@marciapotter9654 unfortunately I've created a stack of three and can only reach -10c .. I haven't placed the whole 12v 5v power to each yet but I'll let you know when I rewire it.
What I've learned about Peltier devices is that they can have an awesome coefficient of performance of 5 or even more - this is potentially better even than an ordinary domestic fridge. But you have to under-drive them to get that, and you get a small temperature differential. So the challenge is to make a highly fuel-efficient peltier fridge, that will inevitably require multiple devices in some sort of serial configuration to get an adequate effect with high energy efficiency.
lets goooooooooooo
Is it possible to use enough of them together to generate charge while they cool?
@@orioguy9 I don't know, I haven't actually done any experiments yet
The best way to apply thermal paste to make it as scanty as possible and remove voids due to fine scratches or imperfections on the surface of the parts that come in contact with each other. Ideally there should be a direct contact between the peltier and the heat sink. Only spaces where there is no such direct contact should be filled by the thermal paste. So make a thin film just enough to cover the creases and remove any air spaces between the two parts. This is the reason sufficient pressure is applied so that the thermal paste is squeezed out to allow direct contact.
Parabéns, ótimo vídeo, projeto limpo e organizado, like for You man.
Heard of a cooling heatsink and fan on it- Thought that he is going to make a super duper mega turbo CPU cooler that cools below ambient temps
is expensive and use a lot of power
Hi Simon, nice small project, like to see your bigger project. btw. , the inspiration you are doing with your channel is very welcome and thats why I am supporting you. BR Michael
excuse for my poor english, but really dont forget that when you turn off your system the hot side of module diffuse heat in all the system (evo+hot side ->radiator+cold side) instantly, and all the time heat "wins" against cold. to reduce this effect you can try to mount the evo in push-pull with a mini inverter circuit with 11.1 lipo only to supply the fans on the hot side when the system is suddently turn off. Then mount like pc peltier cooling a brass plate near 5 mm ep. between hot side and evo. the temperature issue is not bring only by insulation. nice video, good project!
Can you make any project on cooling water? I need it to cool my 75 liters (20 gallons) aquarium from 47C to 25C. Btw this is the best youtube channel on diy projects I came across. And something new you can do is mention the total cost of the project.
Ignore the people that say ur applying it wrong. All the computer hardware you tubers like Linus, Paul, Jay, etc all get the same comments. And they all say it doesn't matter as long as you don't put too little. It really doesn't matter if you put a lot or apply it's weirdly, as long as there is enough to cover the whole thing it's fine.
Linus is an idiot, lets just say that much about it. Measuring the temperature of the case with a thermal camera instead of the temperatures of the CPU itself at some point.
And its not about covering the whole surface either.
The heat is most concentrated in the center. And they are NEVER completely plane, they are either concave or convex.
So you don't spread it, but put a tiny blob in the center, so it spreads to those areas where its needed.
There are enough tests by manufactures of coolers like zalman that proof that this is the best method. Thats why most of them recommend it to be done this way.
If you spread it, you might have too little in some area, and you increase the chance of trapping air insite it.
djteac it still doesn't not matter as long as you don't put a little. It has to just cover the whole metal part
you can combine the wire from fans to the temperature module so that when the peltier goes on or off so with the fans.
Yes nice to see how you wired the unit. I just got my own units in the mail and was wondering how to wire them all up. thanks bro.
Love your videos
me two.
#RCLifeOn
Hey thanks mate!
Hej vad för typ 3d skrivare ska jag köpa
make a wind generator to charge batteries
Peltiers suffer heat leak back when powered off. Once the outside heat sink is at ambient, it will bring the heat sink inside the chiller up to ambient as well, conducting your coolness out as it goes.
ii si a great demonstration on how Peltier cooler works. Thanx!
AGH. Knife in Styrofoam. THE WORST WOUND EVER!
BraedanRicketts Ricketts I love that sound
I thought that I was the only one. Rubbing them together kills me too. I fast forwarded that part.
You think cardboard cuts hurt try a foamboard cut
Yah i hate that sound to.
@@RowynOfficial - to.... what?
Can you modify it to use it inside a car when a car is parked to reduce heat
ABDALLA ALSUBAIE Not really efficient enough, plus if it draws a maximum of 15 amps, it will drain the cars battery pretty fast.
karlpc200 try solar cell. Don't connect by car battery
ABDALLA ALSUBAIE you would be adding more weight and with how he drives everything would get destroyed in seconds
If you want a solarpanel to supply it, it's gonna have to be bigger than an average car to supple enough current. And then it still probably wont have enough power to cool the car.
Not powerful enough. That particular Peltier has a refrigerating power of about 80 watts. You need at least a couple of kilowatts of power to keep a car interior cool on a Summer day
Best method to apply thermal paste. Spread it on the surface with a blade and make sure it covers all area
You don't even need a heat sink on the cold side. Just get a bigger heat sink for that side. I have one of those cheep refrigerators that uses a Peltier device & the motor was getting noisy from old age so I replaced it with a couple of computer fans. It made the soda cans freeze because the motors were circulating much more air past the hot side so I added a resistor to dial them back a bit & still didn't need a fan in the cold side.
Those peltier modules are as efficient as 2% right now you use as much power as a big refrigerator for a lower volume and higher temperature...
its the elegance off making a functioning thing then come the improvementsssssssss
if you ask me that makes it bigger.
off course. i plan to be able to use it on a bottle off champagne at 6° so with a good insulation i think its ok. i do not want to cool the bottle, but to keep it cool.
it's easier.
The really interesting thing about Peltier thermoelectric cooler is that it is possible to also harness electricity from them. By applying electricity, a thermal differential develops. By applying a thermal differential, electricity develops. Yes the size is a limitation, but anything is possible. In the 50s, a desktop computer filled a room the size of most average houses today. Component miniaturization is always making new components and improving the efficiency.
'big' heatsink.
that's a fairly small/average cooler..
hi Simon I like a lot your videos ,when I watch your projects I have a idea and go make or try hehe
10 degrees means that your insulation is terrible. Try making a bigger box but 3d print it so that there are air pockets between so that the insulation is better. The best insulator is a vacuum. Remember that temperature and pressure are directly related, lower temperature is negative pressure so its going to try to suck in the warm air. Try to make something with air pockets for insulation and with a door seal that can hold pressure. Then add an arduino so that switches the power off and on to maintain a certain temp. I know you can do it!! Keep up the good work.
it's the peltier not the insulation
Are you going to hydroplane your RC car?
Creating Creations
Creating Creations
It seems like it
ruclips.net/video/h0eex8KuZmY/видео.html
please no more hand held footage
Alright, some people seem to like it while some just don't care for it at all. Perhaps I will go a little easier with it next time.
RCLifeOn i enjoyed it tbh
RCLifeOn footage was good, don't worry. thanks for the video.
Made me seasick
Just get drunk before you watch it and the effects cancel out LOL
I like diy projects. I have a hobby to make videos of my diy project.Your videos are also good.Nice job.
Very good that you included the wiring! I think a lot wanted that.
1er commentaire français
Deuxième.
baguette croissant profiteroles
last word doesn't mean anything.
Salutations
A Wii Wii baguette du fromage
swag je suis français et je tombe sur sa en top coment
Hey homie,
No matter what amount you put on as long as you don't put too little thermal compound you are doing it right. If you want to play it safe, especially when working with a computer, use thermal compound that isn't conductive.
OH MY GOD!!! I TURNED THIS OFF WHEN YOU SLICED THE FOAM.
You've got a pretty good microphone, man!
I know what you mean. I think it's really interesting how certain sounds seem to have a neurologically hard-wired effect on some of us. For me, two pieces of cardboard can do it sometimes. I wonder what's really going on there.
Nice Pelthier project
Actually, the pea size thing is only for CPUs, because the die is in the center of the heat spreader. So if the full surface of the peltier is getting hot, you should indeed spread the grease over the entire device to ensure the entire device is getting cooled more efficiently.
Wow, nice job! NOTE, you could use silicon to make a seal around the box and the door.
Your insulation is better than you think - the reason it climbed to 10 °C after 30ish minutes is mainly the Peltier itself. The moment you turn it (and the hot side fan) off, the heat conducts to the cold side almost instantly. Within minutes the whole heat pump assembly will be at an equilibrium that's somewhere between the cold end's temperature (-7 °C) and the hot end's (probably touching 100 °C).
The proper way to turn the pump off would be to slowly reduce power to the Peltier (e.g. using PWM) while keeping the hot side fan running. Only when the hot end is at room temperature (as opposed to searing hot) can you kill the fan.
Great project , will get these components for my son project. Thumbs up
Thinking about making one of these myself. I'll probably try to find a lower-profile heatsink though. Ideally I'd like it to be able to hold sub-freezing temperatures in my car for the times when I need to take frozen food on long summer road trips. I think going with two lower-power modules (such as the TEC-12710 or 12706) stacked in series thermally and in parallel electrically would be able to maintain a greater temperature delta. I know it would reduce the efficiency as well as the overall heat flow rate of the system, but if the box is well-insulated then that won't really be a problem. An ice cooler would probably suffice, maybe with a rubber seal on the lid to let it form a partial vacuum inside.
An honest presentation & an experiment ! you could improve yo cooler box with sealed rigifoam joints with hot glue or silicone glue & dark tinted door with internal LED indoor lamp to preserve cool inside.And better results may give if you have a metal encloser with internal rigifoam chamber surrounded by a sault insulator.this is over 40 years old trick in Sri Lanka that I assure and good luck with your experiments!
I like that you do shit your way, take suggestions with a grain of salt. You decide what's best for you.
Hey, nice one! I think you need some thermal mass what you can cool down. Maybe a Stone is helpful because they can keep heat for long period of time. Also the window of course was not the best insulator : )
Keep going 💪🏼
-7 is not bad considering the single plastiglass sheet door! Works better than I expected actually. I wonder how cool this could get a normal cool box when you stick that in the sun
A pea sized drop in the center of a CPU makes sense because heat is generated from the chip which is centered on the package and rarely covers all of the CPU. In contrast, a peltier module has the heat transferring elements (tiny individual heat pumps) covering all its area. So a drop in the center of it, spreads out as a disc and doesn't cover the the element's corners.
For cooler temperature you can stack two peltier devices HCHC of course with heat sink compound between. Effectively doubles the temperature difference. Those stacked peltiers are available in one device but very expensive. The problem with peltier is not that it won't work but is far less efficient than conventional compressor type refrigeration units. You may also want to try liquid cooling for the hot side with an appropriate radiator and aluminum plate on the cold side.
Thanks for this. I was looking for a cooler box for resin and glues which tend to go bad in the 35C environment of my workshop in summer. It looks very feasible to build from a single TEC1.
it is the best method i am using it all the time, including while building and re-applying the cooler to my i9-9900k cpu or my 4.5 GHz overclocked i7-2700k, either way you cant get wrong with it by applying the appropriate pressure
Please mount your remote control flamethrower from a previous video to a remote control car.(insert crazy laughter)
That sounds great!
You can stack up two peltier elements between the heat sinks. To increase the maximum temperature difference.
I'm betting the power efficiency would reduce.
Fan inside cool your fridge faster, and more eficient, but is not good to achieve lowest temperature. It's because these few wats of power, which fan needs, is at the end converted into heat. I think you could earn about half or one degree. Try at the end of cooling test turn off the fan to test if I have right.
And it's very cool project! :)
If possible it's good to try and prevent too much ice building up on the heat sink, since ice is a fairly good thermal insulator.
I built a peltier based fridge once for the car, which worked fine, but when running for a long time, sometimes the ice on the heatsinks inside continued to grow until it prevented the fans from spinning. So that's something to keep in mind.
That could be a problem, but if you set it to something like 8°C it will shut down when it reaches this temperature. I think it has enough time to defrost.
@@Rowie12 Yes, that's true. But you know, if it's a freezer you're probably not gonna set it to 8 °C are you?
@@phinok.m.628 You're right of course. It's hard getting no ice on the heatsink and I don't know a solution.
As a suggestion, use an all-in-one liquid cooler for the cold side and the passive cooler on the hot side. I built an A/C unit for a large Vivarium With dart frogs and a high performance Peltier. IT IS COOL!
👍👍for the thermal compound application 😁
one of your main efficiency losses is probably the peltier itself, it's basically a chunk of metal conducting heat form outside into the box when it's not running.
Pretty cool build! I would say you should reinforce the top with a couple of dowel rods. You could cut out slots on the sides, insert the dowels so they sit just below the roof of the box (ie: if the top is 12mm thick, dowel is 10mm diameter, cut slots 22mm deep) then the top will sit on the rods, and you can fill the top of the slots with more foam to help keep its insulating properties. (Or use 2 pieces of foam on each side, one with slots, one without)
ALSO and more importantly, replace the front with insulation to get better results. Just look at refrigerators, they have no clear door on them because plexi-glass or glass doesn't insulate well. If the outside is cool, you need more insulation.
Hey thanks for your suggestions!
When peltier turns off, it effectively is big cold bridge with huge heatsink :)
test it with voltmeter - when it is turned off, it starts to work as thermoelectric generator - heat difference between inside and outside makes it produce voltage and inside heatsing melts immediately.
So if you ant to improve efficiency, best would be to use just big enough peltier to keep temperature you need. You can also make power consumption lower by recucing voltage - that power supply should have adjustment screw to turn it to somewhere to 10-11V
I know that this is from 2017 but I just saw it and now I have all the parts ordered
I kinda want to put the pump less water cooler on that to see how much power I could get back from the heat from the CPU.
If you put a blob of thermal paste between two pieces of perspex or glass you'll see how the pea spreads around. If you use a heatsink and glass you'll see how the paste spreads with that particular heatsink for a certain amount of paste.
Thank you for that fast and effective experiment..
I am trying to bring the temperature of a 10 inch squared box surrounded by a 5 inches of styrofoam down to 20- with a single pelter thru a small hole cut out of the back of this box. What wattage pelter do I need and can it be air cooled or would water work better? thanks
Great project! have you thought about adding a second thermostat, this would control just the internal fan, once the internal heatsink becomes frozen, one thermostat swtches off the PELTIER, and the fan keeps on running passing air over a frozen surface, cooling the air annd defrosting the heatsink. and would increase the life of the peltier. be intresting to see how effient it would make it.
Great video! Really enjoyed it! Just as a suggestion for us westerners though, maybe you could put the conversion to Fahrenheit up in the corner of the video when you use Celsius . But, otherwise great video and keep up the good work!
I think by 'us westerners' you meant, 'us Americans'. We use centigrade here in the UK now.
You could use 2 plexi plates with air gap between them to better isolate the chamber
Hello! Great project ! Is it true that a Temperature controller damages a Peltier cell ? I red that PWM output needs to be filtered before being presented to the Peltier device ....
Actually the insulation is pretty good . I think that the heatsink is the culprit for the 16C in the last part
if we are using the cold side of peltier in an insulated environment ,where does the heat from the air inside the insulated environment goes ,once it gets cooled by the cold side peltier.?
Hi. Please how do i cool a canned drink without opening it, using a thermoelectric cooler? Can i cool it directly or do i have to use air as a working fluid?
Do you know what the average power draw was when the peltier and fans were station keeping at -7C? Wondering if it would be possible to put a similar system in a cooler for an afternoon on the beach while running on some LiPos...
Really cool and helpfull man ... all the best for your future works
Put the same heat sink/fan on the inside. Now you can control the power to the peltier, and the speed of the fans on the inside and the fans on the outside. The idea might be better for a larger refrigerator than a smaller freezer.
When applying the thermal grease, you did it wrong. You were supposed to wear eye protection goggles, a helmet and have a bag of chips.
LOL.
Awesome project!
Looks like I am going to finally build me a unit.
I live here in HOT Phoenix, Arizona. I had me an aquarium outside. A 100 gallon tank with fish.
I had to shut it down because I was fighting the heat in my patio. I tried fans blowing on the water. But it wasn't good enough.
I think that a few of these peltier devices might do the trick!
Do you know the price of this peltier device ?
The cold side actually gets colder with the hot side getting hotter. The reason you need such a big heat sink is because the hot side will burn itself out at those temps without a heatsink.
I've always fascinated by electronic devices, but sadly I don't know much about them so I can't mess with it... But I would love and really appreciate if you could make a video about it, show how you choose your electronic devices when you order them online, a little bit on this "world" and only if you want a little bit encoding. Thank you so much. By the way I really like your channel, is really awesome.