I have a My-T-Vac fluid evacuator that will slurp that reservoir dry in seconds and holds 2.3 gallons. It's a good tool to have for changing fluids in anything with inaccessible drains. I use it to change the oil on my supercharger. Also good changing water pumps, cyl heads etc when there is no way to drain the block and the coolant level is even with the gasket surfaces you need to clean and prepare. You can suck the coolant out of the block and get it below your working level.
This is happened several times I did exactly what Ranger says in his videos my clutch still gets stuck amd the fluid is clear I use DOT 4 as well.. my car has 44,000 miles Full Exhaust, Intake and Tune 2nd owner pretty sure it's a factory clutch
Same. I got a C5 Z06 with 42k miles. Full exhaust, intake, cam and a tune. Clutch pedal sticks or gets half stuck every time I dump it at high rpms. Then goes back to normal after 2 minutes. So damn annoying.
@@ghostk5763 well I got the Clutch fluid lines E-Wrapped Aka some kind of heavy duty electrical tape but it still keeps doing it I think I need a new clutch honestly I just got my dynoed 2 weeks ago exact mods Kooks 1" 7/8 Longtubes with a 3" collector to a matching Kooks 3" X-Pipe and reduces to 2" 1/2" to a Corsa Sport Axleback and a True Cold Air Intake from K&N and Tune made 395 @ Wheels & 370 ibs ft of TQ. And to be honest I just raced a brand new 2020 Coyote 6 spd this morning I had him by 2 car lengths we raced from 60 I was in 3rd he jumped on Me for a like 2 sec and I still was able to pull on him my the end 3rd and immediately stop his pull and kept pulling on 4th
@@ricardovilla1757 Thats awesome man. Yeah I have Kooks longtubes, Full Corsa Extreme exhaust, True Cold Air intake and I don't know my Cam because it was done by previous owner, same with the tune. I haven't raced anyone and I'm unaware of the WHP. But overtaking people sometimes I catch myself accidentally going 120+ Mph, it just catches up to speed so fast with such little throttle. But if you can beat mustangs, that makes me happy lol. Like I said, no races yet for me ;(
@@ghostk5763 well if your cammed I'd say least 420+ wheel so your titties compared to me so 🤷 you should have no problem beating SS Camaros or 392 SRT8's with Boltons or C6's with Boltons unless it's an LS3 with Boltons, 5.0's watch out for the 10 spd ones those are sneaky
hello, you know why the gear won't shift when the engine's running with the clutch being stuck? when i pull it back up with my foot the clutch doesn't have that strong springy feeling. i'm knocking on wood it's not serious! 🤞🤞
Dot 4 is OK to use in a Dot 3 system because they are both glycol base. Dot 4 has higher "wet" (3.7% water contamination) and dry (zero water contamination) boiling points and will perform better under high heat. Because of it's higher heat resistance, 4 is considered higher performance fluid, and it is backward compatible with 3 systems, you just can't use 3 in a system that specifies 4. However there is a trade off. Both 3 & 4 will eventually attract water contamination from the atmosphere, and so they both need to be changed periodically. But 4 does attract water a little more quickly than 3, that's the trade off with 4's different formulation. 4 has higher heat performance but needs changing more often. If the car is to be neglected then 3 is a better choice. If the car is well maintained then 4 is the better choice. At least that is the case with brake systems because brakes get hot. I honestly don't know if clutches see the kind of heat that brakes can get. Perhaps the engine heat and a nearby exhaust pipe on in a hard driven car on a hot day can make that kind of heat in a clutch system. But if you intend to change the fluid regularly the Dot 4 will not cause any problems and may perform better if the clutch system sees any extreme heat.
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Did this a while back. Takes a little while to get it all fresh, but it's smooth and easy now.
I have a My-T-Vac fluid evacuator that will slurp that reservoir dry in
seconds and holds 2.3 gallons. It's a good tool to have for changing
fluids in anything with inaccessible drains. I use it to change the oil
on my supercharger. Also good changing water pumps, cyl heads etc when
there is no way to drain the block and the coolant level is even with
the gasket surfaces you need to clean and prepare. You can suck the
coolant out of the block and get it below your working level.
Which model do you have?
@@aces23jump Model 7201, $115 on amazon.
You can use the cheap air powered bleeder from Harbor Freight to suck the fluid out of the MC. Its a good sized container so it will hold a lot.
Thanks, I need to try that 👍
This is happened several times I did exactly what Ranger says in his videos my clutch still gets stuck amd the fluid is clear I use DOT 4 as well.. my car has 44,000 miles Full Exhaust, Intake and Tune 2nd owner pretty sure it's a factory clutch
Same. I got a C5 Z06 with 42k miles. Full exhaust, intake, cam and a tune. Clutch pedal sticks or gets half stuck every time I dump it at high rpms. Then goes back to normal after 2 minutes. So damn annoying.
@@ghostk5763 well I got the Clutch fluid lines E-Wrapped Aka some kind of heavy duty electrical tape but it still keeps doing it I think I need a new clutch honestly I just got my dynoed 2 weeks ago exact mods Kooks 1" 7/8 Longtubes with a 3" collector to a matching Kooks 3" X-Pipe and reduces to 2" 1/2" to a Corsa Sport Axleback and a True Cold Air Intake from K&N and Tune made 395 @ Wheels & 370 ibs ft of TQ. And to be honest I just raced a brand new 2020 Coyote 6 spd this morning I had him by 2 car lengths we raced from 60 I was in 3rd he jumped on Me for a like 2 sec and I still was able to pull on him my the end 3rd and immediately stop his pull and kept pulling on 4th
@@ricardovilla1757 Thats awesome man. Yeah I have Kooks longtubes, Full Corsa Extreme exhaust, True Cold Air intake and I don't know my Cam because it was done by previous owner, same with the tune. I haven't raced anyone and I'm unaware of the WHP. But overtaking people sometimes I catch myself accidentally going 120+ Mph, it just catches up to speed so fast with such little throttle. But if you can beat mustangs, that makes me happy lol. Like I said, no races yet for me ;(
@@ghostk5763 well if your cammed I'd say least 420+ wheel so your titties compared to me so 🤷 you should have no problem beating SS Camaros or 392 SRT8's with Boltons or C6's with Boltons unless it's an LS3 with Boltons, 5.0's watch out for the 10 spd ones those are sneaky
Try bleeding the lines...you may have air in them which would cause it to do that even after changing the fluid with that method.
hello, you know why the gear won't shift when the engine's running with the clutch being stuck? when i pull it back up with my foot the clutch doesn't have that strong springy feeling. i'm knocking on wood it's not serious! 🤞🤞
Is what type of spring did you use
How does this fix a sticking pedal? Just prevents it...right?
Yeah does this fix the issue or prevents it
Fixies it
You recommended Dot 4. On my cap says to use Dot 3. I bought the the Super Dot 4 that you used. Thoughts??
Dot 4 is OK to use in a Dot 3 system because they are both glycol base. Dot 4 has higher "wet" (3.7% water contamination) and dry (zero water contamination) boiling points and will perform better under high heat. Because of it's higher heat resistance, 4 is considered higher performance fluid, and it is backward compatible with 3 systems, you just can't use 3 in a system that specifies 4. However there is a trade off. Both 3 & 4 will eventually attract water contamination from the atmosphere, and so they both need to be changed periodically. But 4 does attract water a little more quickly than 3, that's the trade off with 4's different formulation. 4 has higher heat performance but needs changing more often. If the car is to be neglected then 3 is a better choice. If the car is well maintained then 4 is the better choice. At least that is the case with brake systems because brakes get hot. I honestly don't know if clutches see the kind of heat that brakes can get. Perhaps the engine heat and a nearby exhaust pipe on in a hard driven car on a hot day can make that kind of heat in a clutch system. But if you intend to change the fluid regularly the Dot 4 will not cause any problems and may perform better if the clutch system sees any extreme heat.
fluid change lol