Is It Fixable?Stored For 30yrsOld Boat Motor1st Repairs!SomeTips!ILL Give It One Hour To See Run!PT2
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2024
- Old vintage outboard brought back to life from local scrapyard after 30 years.Let the REPAIRS begin.
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Need parts 1950S-80S 2HP-40HP OMC mostly. I have a huge inventory of parts lots of bring back engines,metal & fiberglass covers,carbs,powerheads, lowerunits,castings etc.
That crappy paint job sure did a good job of preserving the original paint. It looks great. Great job saving the gearcase.
Yes I do this many times with usually great results.This motor was repainted mainly because of the L/U Is my guess it could use a repaint. When I was very young 13yrs old I learned about rebuilding salted frozen outboards. I also learned what you can get away with just from the fact that we had no money to replace parts me and two of my childhood friends... Great days mostly 50S OMC motors then when they were in their heyday...Thanks for commenting ..later
F.Y.I. I use a 3 inch cutting wheel and cut off the transom clamp studs slightly higher then both castings before drilling & tapping. I remove & save the handles for future use.
Love !!!!! My Most Fav motor,, & He is Spot on Perfect, from Part's to Paint.. KB
Yes I like these too they are really very simple as you know... Kodi my personal favorite is a 1958 Evinrude Fastwin 18HP!
I was waiting for part 2 lol, take it easy Glenn 😊
Ha!Ha! Thanks for joining me in my madness hobby and watching the videos when you got time Thanks BW. 👍👍👍👍!!
Hi there
Hi There!
I'm glad to see you struggle to get those damn gearcase seals out also. Pullers, slide hammers, threaded screws....All that usually happens is that metal seal casing just pulls up releasing whatever it is you have jammed under there to pull it out. Eight out of ten times, I usually end up gently coercing the metal seal casing inwards to loosen it up like you did. My machinist buddy, (who is sorely missed after passing last fall), even made me a neat collet set up(s) to fit the various seals, but even that usually just pulls the upper metal casing up releasing the collet. One must be extremely careful using pry bars and the like, only because the delicate aluminum castings are usually damaged during that operation.
That engine sounded so nice when you had it running, hard to believe that gearcase was full of salt/cement. That steering swivel and shift rod are fun jobs as well. Countless hours of heating, applying gentle but constant force, patiently twisting just a touch more each time, all because folks don't know how to grease an engine. And once the salt is in those cavities, it is too late to try to grease them....
You are so right about the laquer thinner, look at how nice that original finish is... Is there a reason you went after those surfaces so quickly with the wax? Were you worried that the laquer thinner might attack the original paint if not protected soon after removing that messy paint job? I keep forgetting about the Yamaha paint, perfect match indeed! Tell me again the tempo or Yamaha name part number, sure need to get some of that on hand. Love that mount repair, will have to review that video the next time I work on one of these engines.
In the end, I would match the idle quality of these older 22CI OMCs to any four stroke made today. When I say older, I mean the models built before the overboard drains were plugged up and that crazy uneven recirc system was added.
Ah, the smell of hot aluminum, paint and salt. It is easy to understand why fresh water/lake shops won't even touch a salt water engine. Fortunately for me, the salty dogs were the only ones I ever worked on...I was enrolled in the "heat and beat" school for many years, still have to go back for refresher and update courses. This channel is a valuable resource for this training indeed...
That backward seal was crazy a first.Usually I do them quickly knocking them out when the flange is in correct orientation from the opposite opening with angled tools in a vise. Driveshaft seals I just crush them inwards and pry them out like many mechanics do.That was the original CR seal in brass making them a little soft and a little harder to remove then the stainless ones at least on my end.The Meguiars polish I did just for editing after the Laquer thinner deal. Usually I polish after all is said and done at the end.Did you know about that two year cam plate & linkage economizer deal on 1967-68 models?,I didnt. Ive seen many gearcases here like that common in my area this one still was damp usually there totally dry powder & cement ,Ha!. Yamaha paint is Moeller P/N # 25469 Yamaha Blue Metallic 1985-89.I go thru 5 or 6 bottles of Mapp Gas a year its my trusty friend couldnt do it without heat it saves my day most times..Thanks for commenting ...Oh & as far as the rubber mounts you know Im sure in 1971 I think it first was introduced they went to a bolted studded pan mount anyway and used them for years after that.Those vulcanized mounts are terrible but then again these motors are very old and some of mine still have them holding together after all these years. go figure ...later..
@@fleetwin1 Rule of thumb here is they wont touch motors over 10 years old you probably know that.. Thanks for the channel appreciation training statement..
@@OutBoardTink62 Yeah, I had seen those crazy cams before, just couldn't remember which years they were on. I love the angled tool idea, when coming up from the bottom of the seal after cutting the rubber out. It's just hard to come up with something like that for the driveshaft seal under the water pump only cuz the diameter of the driveshaft is small. But, I am always trying to think of a way to do it. A good solid hit with a wide angled tool sure seems to be the best bet.
Those pan mounts were terrible. They were not tough enough. Just tilting up the motor by the cowl or pan would break the rear two, sometimes on a fairly new motor.