Good work. I was a technical support engineer for Caterpillar in the 90's. It was surprising how poor some mechanics' electrical skills are, perhaps the same in the bike industry, why Ducati couldn't repair it. These days, if they can't use a computer, they're buggered.
Nice video again Ash, best practice is to disconnect negative first then positive and reconnect positive first then negative ..... this will prevent shorting out and fuse blowing. Its also good to wrap the connectors with tape ....
Big reason to do this is you are only touching the +ve terminal when there is no circuit from the frame to the -ve terminal - so when I slip I don’t short the battery out!
@@AshRowland Recently started watching your Ducati documentary Happy it started finally, there is deep joy working on bikes!! I’ve subscribed you hopefully here to watch that you bike behind run too !! 🤍 from south India
The positive connections are always prone to this problem. It's due the electrolytic reaction when there is damp, usualy salty, conditions within the connectors. It's not a problem that is unique Ducati's, I remember having to replace connectors under tank of Yamaha DT175's and the like in the mid 70's! and many other bikes since then!
Dieletric grease on each plug connection is one thing I do when I service my vehicles. It should be fine at factory in my own opinion, but usually never is.
Hope the acetone was in bulk, not Kates nail varnish remover! The bit you found by the headlight was a Well Nut / Rawl Nut. Rubber mounted nuts that Ducati often use for fairings. The water in the wire to the starter switch was probably in the rubber boot. Think the actual connector block is sealed anyway. Probably shouldn’t be too hard to repair the old wiring - fixing the bits someone has bodged previously . At a guess someone replaced the bulb holder and used a generic pre wired one which came with blue and red wires. Oooh, Fluke meter! Yay, it runs.
Haha, yea, I've got a decent supply of Acetone. you're right, the connectors are pretty sealed inside the rubber boot. I need to investigate the oil light not working 😕
@@AshRowland , at a guess the oil light is switched on the earth side, the oil pressure switch earthing the light. Check if you have power to the light, and check if the oil pressure switch has continuity to earth (opportunity to use your new Fluke meter!) Might be worth taking some photos of the large connector to the front loom and send them to Kojaycat - see if they can supply replacement new terminals for it. Good luck!
Weirdly nail varnish remover is no longer acetone - I needed some for my model aircraft hobby and discovered that every bottle in the supermarket was acetone free. Had to order some from the Amazon
@@nockianlifter661 , I have both types nail varnish remover , and boots stock acetone nail varnish remover. That said I also have bought acetone in 5L containers for thoroughly degreasing things before Cerakoting them (note to self - don't refil brake cleaner bottle with acetone when I run out of brake cleaner - killed the seals VERY quickly)
Awesome that you started it 👍 That fired up really quick actually - it must be in a good state of tune. There's no choke on fuel injection btw - it's a fast idle lever. It just gives it a bit of throttle.
Found that out on my 749. Used to use it as a make shift Cruze control when sitting up or adjusting my gloves ect. Probably not safe or recommended, but it did come in handy 😊
Re the noisy clutch, you can perform what's called 'the quiet clutch mod' Basically it's rearranging the clutch plates, but you need an extra old friction plate to put in first, at the back of the pack.
The main issue with the clutch is that it has a steel basket and steel plates. They both wear and the gap between the tabs on the plates, and the slots on the basket get bigger, making it sound like a machine gun! Later Ducati's have an anodised alloy basket and alloy plates, so the basket doesn't wear so much. They can retrofitted if you find the rattle too annoying. It's only noticeable on tick over anyway.
@@stevenrowley9481 That's not strictly true. Some (most) have steel baskets and friction plates, and some have alloy baskets and friction plates. For example ST2 and ST4 have steel baskets and frictions, but ST4S has alloy basket and frictions. Most Monsters have steel baskets and frictions, but the Monster S4R has alloy basket and frictions. They all wear and make a racket, but the main thing to remember is to not mix steel and alloy - eg steel friction plates in an alloy basket will destroy the basket quicker than alloy on alloy, and alloy friction plates in a steel basket will destroy the tangs on the friction plates quicker than steel on steel. As a general rule all dry clutches between the first generation SS bikes, up to the 1198, are interchangeable between bikes, just bearing in mind not to mix the steel and alloy for the reasons mentioned above. They can all be quietened down considerably with the quiet clutch mod.
Top tip for those infuriating little square nuts you get on batteries - stick a bit of fuel line under each one. It ‘pushes’ the nut up and holds it in place while you connect the terminals. (Not motorbike fuel line, the sort of fuel line you get on a petrol strimmer)
Yea, they're such a lazy design that doesn't need to be that awkward! Good tip, I usually just try and lift them with a small screwdriver or something like that
@@AshRowland You’d think somebody would have come up with a permanent solution at manufacturing stage by now. 🤷🏻 Leave about a quarter inch of fuel line under each nut and you’ll never be grovelling around on the floor again searching for the elusive little b*******!
I usually go though all my new to me vehicles and do that to all plugs exposed to weather. Eg everything on a bike, and under the bonnet, chassis's of a car. Makes servicing in future easier, and can eliminate any potential faults unknown to the previous owners and yourself, as you never know 100% what troubles you've just brought
It’s not a choke by the way, it just increases the throttle setting, which is useful as you can use it as a bit of a cruise control, just pull it and it will stay at 50mph or so in top gear.
To put two wires together you can use a solder stick (that is a shink tube with solder in the middle ) you put one wire on each side and warm it up with a heat gun to make the solder go liquid and cover the wires
It might have been the lighting, or my eye sight, but when we saw you switch on just before refitting the fairing it appeared that the charge light didn`t come on which could mean your just running on battery but don`t know it.
Worth it just to see your happy face when it started 🙂 I don’t think the stock indicator relay likes those led indicators. Either the relay or the indicators need replacing so they can work together 😉
I personally think it’s great you have a few different projects to switch about on… keeps the films you make really interesting. Keep up the great work sir ❤ PS, keep the Duke and flog the FZ😅
LED in conjunction with normal bulbs will give you a faster flash rate - replace LED indicators with normal bulbs, or, swap out the relay for one that does dual rate - readily available off evilbay.
Good night Ash and Kate i love watching your RUclips videos on your RUclips channel I hope you both are well I am glad Kate has joined you and has been on the first fide on the Ducati motorbike well done Ash for working out the new wiring loom from eBay I will give you 1000.000 points and lots of gold stars tonight I am glad you are still enjoying your motorbike projects please keep safe and warm and please keep up your good work on your you tube channel
Thank you for your kind words, Kate will always prefer riding her SV650, I haven't managed to find a bike she likes better! Thank you for the points and gold stars! I also give you a million points for the lovely comments 😊
Who paints bike parts with no prep.. just spray paint and hope for the best 💁🏻♂️😄 As someone who has various (7) ‘90s era bikes, I feel your pain regarding electrics, paint, mechanics etc…… I am constantly working on one of them, if not all 7, at the same 😂 It’s all good fun though, and keeps me busy. Nice vid mate
It definitely is an illness, I have long suffered with restoring, modifying, and generally sodding about with motorcycles for over 40 years, and I can honestly say that I wouldn't have it any other way. No therapy is required.😊
@@johnmcgerty9320 I think a big part to play is the fact that 9 times out of 10 you can get to the part you need to get to without taking the whole thing apart and reaching in blind!
It's got Fleecebay LED's on the rear wired incorrectly hence why the indicators are flashing too quickly, up to the MOT man whether he fails it or not. But more worryingly it doesn't look like your oil warning light is working,
Yea, I'll probably try and find some standard ones to be honest... yea, a couple of people have said the oil light isn't working,, I'll definitely have to take a look at that! Thanks 👍
Hi ash is your soldering iron a Weller? If it is you need to change the bit in it and it will work fine I have had my weller for the best part of 20 years and it’s as good today as it was when I got it, nice bike tho
If you think Ducati looms are bad then don't go near a late 90s Aprilia! Olives loom looks like a child made it with parts from wish. Nothing worked on her, no charging system, no lighting circuit etc but it would spin over. One clean of the earths and peace was restored on earth. I'm in two minds if its staying yet as I would love one of the maxi scooters for a bit of light touring/ commuting.
Hi its good that you can keep your bike going but it's a bit poor that ducati arnt able to make stuff that just keeps working I have an 85 gpz900r and the only electrical components I have had to replace have been bulbs and battery, this is not a dig at ducati but at most manufacturers as they all seem to make stuff to get through the warranty and then it's anyone's guess as to how long it will work for. How I hate new stuff
Haha, yea, I Ducati get a bit of a bad rep for being unreliable but I've done about 80 miles on it now without breaking down 🤣 I have an '85 GPZ900R as well, you must have seen it on the channel? I'm doing a full nut and bolt restoration on it 😃
You lied lol your said you were going to show us it with paint cleaned off 😂 i bet it'll look amazing when thats cleaned off and polished the can up 👌👋👍
Thats what I thought but it turns out that it's not a choke, just a fast idle, its connected to the same butterfly as the throttle cable, just holds it open a bit
Loom. I did mention previously (I think in email) that a new front loom is not necessarily going to be the same as the old loom. I also mentioned that I think your original front loom has already been replaced once, and is not like the one it replaced (hence incorrect lights etc) I also mentioned I have been through this same scenario with an ST4S front loom, and had to modify the wires coming out of the multi pin connector. Flashing LO on display. I also mentioned previously (poss in email) that this means the engine temp is reading low, and that this will change to a temp reading when the engine gets up to temp. Aluminium Clock Bracket. The bolts you undid, that remained in the bracket - you wouldn't know this beforehand, but there wasn't a need to undo them at all. The bracket just pulls off those, much like you pulled the fuse box off. I'm surprised you didn't round the Allen head, as those bolts are soft aluminium. Guess how I found out.
Thanks mate, yea, the loom was either replaced before or the clocks had been removed and the bulbs not put back in the right places... you'll be pleased to know that it stops flashing lo and reads temperatures as normal... do you know what temperature the fan kicks in at?
All was going really well untill untill you butchered a crappy crimp to connect to a used and corroded 6.3 mm male lucas blade connector. Why didn't you get a new just get a new brass male lucas connector and crimp it to the end of the red 12V feed from the 30 Amp fuse? Your fault finding and approaching was great otherwise. Please revisit ths bit before you start using the bike, the connector is pennies. I assume you don't like pushing heavy motorbikes or putting out fires 😂!
I know this isn't a great job but at this point I just wanted to get it going, I didn't have a new connector to hand but I'll revisit the connection down the line, no worries 👍 I couldn't pull the wire through far enough for it to reach the block so I might have to run a complete new one.
@@AshRowland Clearly you know what you are doing by the way you aproached the fault finding and loom change. You should be able to pull half an inch of slack on a large gauge cable like that without doing any damage as it will just pull in between the small gauge wires on the bends in the loom and push the others out of the way. Nice digital voltmeter, bet that was not cheap, life will be easier with a more powerfull soldering iron! Bike sounds lovely, was that really the first push on the button? Enjoyed both of the videos on this bike, hope you have added loads of value to your purchase. I had two multistrada 1000's one had electrical gremlins due to a badly fitted datatool alarm where the cable ran down into the electronics box and filled it up with water. After a couple of hours of faultfinding I uninstalled it and rejoined the cuts to the loom with solder and heatshrink sleeving, was always fine after that. Take care and enjoy riding it....looks a very nice bike!
@@neiljarvis8911 Thank you Neil! I'm pretty new to working on bikes but I've been in engineering for 20 years 😉 First thing I did to the GPZ900R i've been building was remove the old alarm 🤣 I didn't have a fob for it anyway! Yes, I promise that was the first press of the button, I didn't have any reason to think it wouldn't start once I'd sorted the loom out to be honest because I was told it cut out and then it was dead, taken to Ducati who said it needed a new loom. This was in June time... the battery was still pretty much fully charged. Thanks for watching bud
Good work. I was a technical support engineer for Caterpillar in the 90's. It was surprising how poor some mechanics' electrical skills are, perhaps the same in the bike industry, why Ducati couldn't repair it. These days, if they can't use a computer, they're buggered.
🤣 basically yea, most of my bikes are too old for computer diagnostics 🤣
Top tier motorcycle purchase justification Ash. 😂 As someone with ADHD and new shiny/rusty project syndrome I find this channel very relatable.
Haha thanks Sam... I definitely have new shiny/rusty project syndrome 🤣
She's alive!. Great work.. as soon as it fired up I got all nostalgic.. I need to get back on a bike soon.
It seems to run great 👍
Kudos to you for taking on another awesome project. The bane of almost all used bikes: Shadetree mechanic owners.
Thanks mate, I'm not exactly a mechanic myself, far from it actually 🤣
@@AshRowland
You do pretty good Ash 👍
Great to see a lovely Ducati come back to life. Well done sir
Thank you mate, I've done about 200 miles on it now... want to buy it?
Well done for figuring out the wiring gremlins.
The exhaust will look much better silver. 👍
Thanks mate, due to some bad editing, you can see the silver exhaust while Kate's riding the bike
Nice video again Ash, best practice is to disconnect negative first then positive and reconnect positive first then negative ..... this will prevent shorting out and fuse blowing. Its also good to wrap the connectors with tape ....
Big reason to do this is you are only touching the +ve terminal when there is no circuit from the frame to the -ve terminal - so when I slip I don’t short the battery out!
Ah, thanks Chris and Katy, yea, I keep forgetting the order, it makes sense though 👍
Top tip, Ash, always connect the positive first! That way, if the spanner touches the frame while you are doing it, it won't create a short circuit😊
Thanks mate, that makes complete sense, couple of other people have mentioned that too 👍
Nice work Ash
Thanks mate 👍
That “spare” bulb is your parking light - it squeezes into the top of the main headlamp
Ah, the one without a bulb in it? I thought it was for the analogue gauge that would be there instead of the digital display
Thanks Ash - more great stuff, looks like you're streets ahead of some professinal mechanics. Nearly finished already.
Haha, thank you, but I don't rate myself that high on the mechanic scale, I'm learning as I go and putting in my best efforts 👍
Love how I can enter someone life , garage watch fixing bikes!!
Welcome to 2024 🤣
@@AshRowland Recently started watching your Ducati documentary
Happy it started finally, there is deep joy working on bikes!! I’ve subscribed you hopefully here to watch that you bike behind run too !! 🤍 from south India
@@itssyedfazal thanks, glad you're enjoying the videos, I've ordered a camera for my helmet so I can make on-the-road videos too!
The positive connections are always prone to this problem. It's due the electrolytic reaction when there is damp, usualy salty, conditions within the connectors. It's not a problem that is unique Ducati's, I remember having to replace connectors under tank of Yamaha DT175's and the like in the mid 70's! and many other bikes since then!
Yup, I guess it very much depends on how much time the bike has spend riding around on wet roads, especially in the winter 🤔
Dieletric grease on each plug connection is one thing I do when I service my vehicles. It should be fine at factory in my own opinion, but usually never is.
Hope the acetone was in bulk, not Kates nail varnish remover!
The bit you found by the headlight was a Well Nut / Rawl Nut. Rubber mounted nuts that Ducati often use for fairings.
The water in the wire to the starter switch was probably in the rubber boot. Think the actual connector block is sealed anyway.
Probably shouldn’t be too hard to repair the old wiring - fixing the bits someone has bodged previously .
At a guess someone replaced the bulb holder and used a generic pre wired one which came with blue and red wires.
Oooh, Fluke meter!
Yay, it runs.
Haha, yea, I've got a decent supply of Acetone. you're right, the connectors are pretty sealed inside the rubber boot. I need to investigate the oil light not working 😕
@@AshRowland , at a guess the oil light is switched on the earth side, the oil pressure switch earthing the light. Check if you have power to the light, and check if the oil pressure switch has continuity to earth (opportunity to use your new Fluke meter!)
Might be worth taking some photos of the large connector to the front loom and send them to Kojaycat - see if they can supply replacement new terminals for it.
Good luck!
@@katywalker8322 thanks Katy 😊
Weirdly nail varnish remover is no longer acetone - I needed some for my model aircraft hobby and discovered that every bottle in the supermarket was acetone free. Had to order some from the Amazon
@@nockianlifter661 , I have both types nail varnish remover , and boots stock acetone nail varnish remover.
That said I also have bought acetone in 5L containers for thoroughly degreasing things before Cerakoting them (note to self - don't refil brake cleaner bottle with acetone when I run out of brake cleaner - killed the seals VERY quickly)
You are a legend mate! Nice work 👌🏻
Thank you 😊
Oh God
ST4S I had went the same way, but it was completely dead. Had a re-wire done and bought a Gixxer1000K7
Both were bought new
Loved the K7
I love a Gixxer!
Sounds a treat Ash I know Italian electrics can be troublesome but glad you sorted it, look forward to seeing the first ride of it
Me too! I ordered a DJI action camera over a week ago but the postman has lost it lol
Awesome that you started it 👍
That fired up really quick actually - it must be in a good state of tune.
There's no choke on fuel injection btw - it's a fast idle lever. It just gives it a bit of throttle.
Ah yes, I realised this after making the video, I might still refer to it as the choke in the future though lol
Found that out on my 749. Used to use it as a make shift Cruze control when sitting up or adjusting my gloves ect. Probably not safe or recommended, but it did come in handy 😊
@@russcole5685 haha, I'll try it out 😉
So glad i found this channel. Looking forward to when youre rich and famous
🤣 I'll remember comments like this 😉
Re the noisy clutch, you can perform what's called 'the quiet clutch mod'
Basically it's rearranging the clutch plates, but you need an extra old friction plate to put in first, at the back of the pack.
Ah cool, I'll look into that! Thanks
The main issue with the clutch is that it has a steel basket and steel plates. They both wear and the gap between the tabs on the plates, and the slots on the basket get bigger, making it sound like a machine gun! Later Ducati's have an anodised alloy basket and alloy plates, so the basket doesn't wear so much. They can retrofitted if you find the rattle too annoying. It's only noticeable on tick over anyway.
@@stevenrowley9481 It just doesn't sound healthy does it? 🤣
@@stevenrowley9481
That's not strictly true.
Some (most) have steel baskets and friction plates, and some have alloy baskets and friction plates.
For example ST2 and ST4 have steel baskets and frictions, but ST4S has alloy basket and frictions.
Most Monsters have steel baskets and frictions, but the Monster S4R has alloy basket and frictions.
They all wear and make a racket, but the main thing to remember is to not mix steel and alloy - eg steel friction plates in an alloy basket will destroy the basket quicker than alloy on alloy, and alloy friction plates in a steel basket will destroy the tangs on the friction plates quicker than steel on steel.
As a general rule all dry clutches between the first generation SS bikes, up to the 1198, are interchangeable between bikes, just bearing in mind not to mix the steel and alloy for the reasons mentioned above.
They can all be quietened down considerably with the quiet clutch mod.
Top tip for those infuriating little square nuts you get on batteries - stick a bit of fuel line under each one. It ‘pushes’ the nut up and holds it in place while you connect the terminals. (Not motorbike fuel line, the sort of fuel line you get on a petrol strimmer)
Yea, they're such a lazy design that doesn't need to be that awkward! Good tip, I usually just try and lift them with a small screwdriver or something like that
Bent trimming off the end of zip tie also does the job
@@AshRowland You’d think somebody would have come up with a permanent solution at manufacturing stage by now. 🤷🏻
Leave about a quarter inch of fuel line under each nut and you’ll never be grovelling around on the floor again searching for the elusive little b*******!
Well done Ash looks like another great project bike mate like it👍😃🏍
Thanks Gary 👍
Keep up the great work Ash cheers mate🍻🍻👍😃
Pop some dielectric grease on the uncovered wires that go into plastic connectors so you don't get the same problem happening 👌
On it 👍
Good work on getting it running mate, big fan of the victory lap you took when it fired up 🤟🤣
🤣 yea, I was very excited
Pack that dodgy plug with dielectric grease, that should help protect it.
Great idea, thanks 😊
I usually go though all my new to me vehicles and do that to all plugs exposed to weather. Eg everything on a bike, and under the bonnet, chassis's of a car. Makes servicing in future easier, and can eliminate any potential faults unknown to the previous owners and yourself, as you never know 100% what troubles you've just brought
It’s not a choke by the way, it just increases the throttle setting, which is useful as you can use it as a bit of a cruise control, just pull it and it will stay at 50mph or so in top gear.
yea, I tried that, seems to work pretty good for cruise control in lower speed limits 👍
Just starting an ST2 project - really enjoying watching this series. Now wondering how my efforts might score on the Skate Cale.
Thanks mate! Give me a shout if you get stuck, I've pretty much finished this now
Good job ash, sweet as mate
Thanks mate!
Well done I think I would have set it alight when the second loom didn’t work 😂
🤣
To put two wires together you can use a solder stick (that is a shink tube with solder in the middle ) you put one wire on each side and warm it up with a heat gun to make the solder go liquid and cover the wires
Someone else mentioned these, I'm going to check them out 👍
Doing this type of thing is quicker and safe. Why safe becuse you can never get a cold solder and it is waterproof
Amazing! Seems like the red wire is prone to come loose from the start!
Yep, I'll bet all the looms on eBay are the same!
Well done. You'll love the bike. Makes a 4 feel boring
I'll take it for a proper test ride this week hopefully 🙏
Nice one getting the bike going ash 👍
Thanks mate 👍
It might have been the lighting, or my eye sight, but when we saw you switch on just before refitting the fairing it appeared that the charge light didn`t come on which could mean your just running on battery but don`t know it.
Yep, well spotted! Regulator rectifier wasn't working, check out my latest video 😊
Worth it just to see your happy face when it started 🙂 I don’t think the stock indicator relay likes those led indicators. Either the relay or the indicators need replacing so they can work together 😉
Haha thanks mate... yea, I haven't decided if I'm going to try and find some stock indicators or sort the relay out yet 🤔
LOW means it's cold, normal. Goes away and tells you temp when warm.
Thanks mate, yea, I realised this once I let it warm up 😊
I personally think it’s great you have a few different projects to switch about on… keeps the films you make really interesting. Keep up the great work sir ❤ PS, keep the Duke and flog the FZ😅
Thanks mate... I really really like the FZR though, I think I'm definitely more of a 4 cylinder guy 🤣
@@AshRowland Fair enough, I just love red bikes. 🤪
@@PatrickHostler 🤣 fair enough
Fluke multimeters are definitely worth the price!
I agree, I had one before but it was stolen from my car, but I couldn't go without one anymore!
Makes me nostalgic for my ST4s.
Plenty out there on the second hand market 😉
LED in conjunction with normal bulbs will give you a faster flash rate - replace LED indicators with normal bulbs, or, swap out the relay for one that does dual rate - readily available off evilbay.
Thanks mate, I'll see if I can find a relay, I think I'd like to find an original set of flashers to be honest
You do know that frame paint isn't stock as well?
I did not know, seems to have been painted well though, doesn't come off easily with Acetone 🤣
Always great videos 👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Thank you 😊 🏍👍
That solder is the problem not the iron, I tried that solder in a tube and it was awful, bought some silverline and it’s easy to work with.
Ah, thanks, the soldering iron could probably do with a new tip too
Kate knows her stuff. Proper off road riding position - motocross competitor ?
Haha no, she was riding without hands but I didn't catch it on camera 🤣
Try white vinegar and salt solution for 20 secs for cleaning connections. Immediately clean after and coat with switch lube
I'll give it a go, thanks 😊
That’s a very good soldering iron, but probably wattage is too low as they are usually for circuit boards. Nice meter, bet that was pricey.
The soldering iron is about 30 years old, but yes, it's for circuit boards lol... yea, really treated myself with the multimeter 😉
You know we need a channel camping weekend next summer 90s bikes only
That's a cool idea!
@@AshRowland if it comes to fruition I would like a good pitch ash 😉
Good night Ash and Kate i love watching your RUclips videos on your RUclips channel
I hope you both are well I am glad Kate has joined you and has been on the first fide on the Ducati motorbike well done Ash for working out the new wiring loom from eBay I will give you 1000.000 points and lots of gold stars tonight I am glad you are still enjoying your motorbike projects please keep safe and warm and please keep up your good work on your you tube channel
Thank you for your kind words, Kate will always prefer riding her SV650, I haven't managed to find a bike she likes better! Thank you for the points and gold stars! I also give you a million points for the lovely comments 😊
Better to sometimes check with a test light not a meter. A beep on a multimeter doesnt mean current
Good point, thanks 👍
Well done Ash, you must be chuffed with that, how much has the spend come to so far?
Erm... hard to say because I part exchanged the Thundercat for it, but in parts it's cost £50, well, up to this video that is 🤣
The ST2 is one of the best bargain bikes arround, the Sprint ST 955i is another.
I looked at the Sprint and Daytona, definitely need to do a Triumph soon
well done mate never doubted you 👌
Ha, thanks mate!
Result with the electrix, well solved. Now you just need to check everything else ... carry on ...
Yea, like the oil light not working 🤣
Well done 👏
Thanks mate 👍
it's much easier to fit the side fairings on first then the top fairing.
Yea, I realised this, but most of the time you only want to get to the battery 🤣
Coat all the electrical connections in ACF50 before you put them back together, it will keep any water and corrosion out.
Thanks bud, I'll get some 👍
Yeaaah... your a magician:) !!
🤣 I don't know about that
Who paints bike parts with no prep.. just spray paint and hope for the best 💁🏻♂️😄
As someone who has various (7) ‘90s era bikes, I feel your pain regarding electrics, paint, mechanics etc…… I am constantly working on one of them, if not all 7, at the same 😂
It’s all good fun though, and keeps me busy.
Nice vid mate
Thank you mate... yea, I have 2 90s bikes and 2 80s bikes at the minute... kinda shopping at the minute though 😃
It definitely is an illness, I have long suffered with restoring, modifying, and generally sodding about with motorcycles for over 40 years, and I can honestly say that I wouldn't have it any other way.
No therapy is required.😊
Haha, yea, I love it, much nicer than working on cars
@@AshRowland agree , I’ve got bike and car projects on the go , much prefer that bike projects for many reasons
@@johnmcgerty9320 I think a big part to play is the fact that 9 times out of 10 you can get to the part you need to get to without taking the whole thing apart and reaching in blind!
Great it's starting and run great!😎👍
Sure is 👍
Bang Bang Bang 🤣🤣🤣 brilliant
🤣
Love it ❤
Me too!
It's got Fleecebay LED's on the rear wired incorrectly hence why the indicators are flashing too quickly, up to the MOT man whether he fails it or not. But more worryingly it doesn't look like your oil warning light is working,
Yea, I'll probably try and find some standard ones to be honest... yea, a couple of people have said the oil light isn't working,, I'll definitely have to take a look at that! Thanks 👍
Werey good job you done!!!!😊
Thank you 😊
Hi ash is your soldering iron a Weller? If it is you need to change the bit in it and it will work fine I have had my weller for the best part of 20 years and it’s as good today as it was when I got it, nice bike tho
Yea, it's about 30 years old lol, it does need a new tip, you're right 👍
My ducati 848evo is also the easiest bike to take fairings off. It's so much easier then my cbr600rr
Yea, I've got no complaints with the Ducati disassembly, easy
You two are as mad as each other 🤣🤣🤣
Yup 🤣
If you think Ducati looms are bad then don't go near a late 90s Aprilia! Olives loom looks like a child made it with parts from wish. Nothing worked on her, no charging system, no lighting circuit etc but it would spin over. One clean of the earths and peace was restored on earth. I'm in two minds if its staying yet as I would love one of the maxi scooters for a bit of light touring/ commuting.
haha, just checking out your channel now... nice colour Olive! I don't have a maxi scooter, sorry 🤣
Awesome 😊
Thanks mate 👍
Hi its good that you can keep your bike going but it's a bit poor that ducati arnt able to make stuff that just keeps working I have an 85 gpz900r and the only electrical components I have had to replace have been bulbs and battery, this is not a dig at ducati but at most manufacturers as they all seem to make stuff to get through the warranty and then it's anyone's guess as to how long it will work for. How I hate new stuff
Haha, yea, I Ducati get a bit of a bad rep for being unreliable but I've done about 80 miles on it now without breaking down 🤣 I have an '85 GPZ900R as well, you must have seen it on the channel? I'm doing a full nut and bolt restoration on it 😃
You lied lol your said you were going to show us it with paint cleaned off 😂 i bet it'll look amazing when thats cleaned off and polished the can up 👌👋👍
Ahhhh sorry, I forgot... have a look at the clip of Kate riding the bike, I'd cleaned it all of by then 😉
@@AshRowland I'd love to meet a woman that rides motorbikes when she stood up on pegs made me laugh she very good at controlling bike
@@AshRowland forgot say check and clean earth on bike as indicators flash quick like that when theres a bad earth
@@twizzlestickx7 thanks mate, I think it's probably because they're eBay leds to be honest 🤣
The LO warning just means it needs warming up before riding , most Ducatis do this mate .
Thanks, yea I googled this after making the video because I was worried about it 🤣
Why does it needs a choke? I thought it has EFI?
Thats what I thought but it turns out that it's not a choke, just a fast idle, its connected to the same butterfly as the throttle cable, just holds it open a bit
It's alive........ IT'S ALIVE....
Yeaaaa!
Oil light isn't working 😢😅
Yea, thanks, couple of others have pointed this out, I shall investigate 🔎
try soldering paste
Good idea 💡 👍
Blubby?😂😂😂 Ah dear Kate.... but great job getting it to run again.but get yourself a better soldering iron please
🤣 will do 👍
Bedford well on in stevenage
Regarding Italian electrics….. it doesn’t rain in Italy, never, not once, not even a little bit, ever.
🤣🤣🤣
Bedford ???? When did Bedford come into it ?
I'm in Bedford Mon to Fri most weeks for work stuff, plus most of my family is there
@@AshRowland Ah a fellow traveller, like me, I'm away from home most weeks too.
Loom.
I did mention previously (I think in email) that a new front loom is not necessarily going to be the same as the old loom. I also mentioned that I think your original front loom has already been replaced once, and is not like the one it replaced (hence incorrect lights etc)
I also mentioned I have been through this same scenario with an ST4S front loom, and had to modify the wires coming out of the multi pin connector.
Flashing LO on display.
I also mentioned previously (poss in email) that this means the engine temp is reading low, and that this will change to a temp reading when the engine gets up to temp.
Aluminium Clock Bracket.
The bolts you undid, that remained in the bracket - you wouldn't know this beforehand, but there wasn't a need to undo them at all. The bracket just pulls off those, much like you pulled the fuse box off.
I'm surprised you didn't round the Allen head, as those bolts are soft aluminium. Guess how I found out.
Thanks mate, yea, the loom was either replaced before or the clocks had been removed and the bulbs not put back in the right places... you'll be pleased to know that it stops flashing lo and reads temperatures as normal... do you know what temperature the fan kicks in at?
@@AshRowland
Fan should kick in at about 220.
A manual override switch is a fairly common mod
@@peterbee88 thanks mate 👍
Temperature will start at ~40 degress
Thanks... is it possible to change from Fahrenheit to Celsius?
Good Job,Ash. We released a portable air pump. Can we invite you to do a review? We have emailed for an inquiry.
All was going really well untill untill you butchered a crappy crimp to connect to a used and corroded 6.3 mm male lucas blade connector. Why didn't you get a new just get a new brass male lucas connector and crimp it to the end of the red 12V feed from the 30 Amp fuse? Your fault finding and approaching was great otherwise. Please revisit ths bit before you start using the bike, the connector is pennies. I assume you don't like pushing heavy motorbikes or putting out fires 😂!
I know this isn't a great job but at this point I just wanted to get it going, I didn't have a new connector to hand but I'll revisit the connection down the line, no worries 👍 I couldn't pull the wire through far enough for it to reach the block so I might have to run a complete new one.
@@AshRowland Clearly you know what you are doing by the way you aproached the fault finding and loom change. You should be able to pull half an inch of slack on a large gauge cable like that without doing any damage as it will just pull in between the small gauge wires on the bends in the loom and push the others out of the way. Nice digital voltmeter, bet that was not cheap, life will be easier with a more powerfull soldering iron! Bike sounds lovely, was that really the first push on the button? Enjoyed both of the videos on this bike, hope you have added loads of value to your purchase. I had two multistrada 1000's one had electrical gremlins due to a badly fitted datatool alarm where the cable ran down into the electronics box and filled it up with water. After a couple of hours of faultfinding I uninstalled it and rejoined the cuts to the loom with solder and heatshrink sleeving, was always fine after that. Take care and enjoy riding it....looks a very nice bike!
@@neiljarvis8911 Thank you Neil! I'm pretty new to working on bikes but I've been in engineering for 20 years 😉
First thing I did to the GPZ900R i've been building was remove the old alarm 🤣 I didn't have a fob for it anyway!
Yes, I promise that was the first press of the button, I didn't have any reason to think it wouldn't start once I'd sorted the loom out to be honest because I was told it cut out and then it was dead, taken to Ducati who said it needed a new loom. This was in June time... the battery was still pretty much fully charged.
Thanks for watching bud
£230 fluke multimeter
Something like that 👍