Hi Luke, this video saved my NGCD ! Bought it 10 years ago on a yard sale for a really decent price. But no image and no sound ! Now it works perfectly ! Thanks again !
What I thought was the problem at the beginning of the video and what was the problem in the end were two different things. For anyone who wants to do this repair, Watch the WHOLE video, not just parts so you can see the mistakes of trial and error I went through with this unit. Thanks again.
Ti devo ringraziare all'infinito, grazie a te ho riparato il mio Neo Geo CD.... Questi sono i video che ti aiutano veramente. Grazie infinitamente. Un saluto da Roma, Italia.
Aww, yeah! Another repair video from Luke! Score! Love how you take the time to position the camera and demonstrate the repair process for us, definitely a learning experience.
So that's why viewpoint was playing in the background of your 2014 new year's video... :P Glad to see another classic game system saved from the scrapheap. Technology can be a pain sometimes, to be sure. One little thing goes bad and unless you can fix it (or find someone else to) you've got yourself a fancy paperweight. Anyway excellent videos as always, have a good one!
Holy s**t Luke, youre the Man! you just saved my Neo CD as well, I was about to sell it for parts this week after being siting there with this very same problem for years now and couldnt find the solution, After a quick test its the exact same inductor as your, gona put a jumper in it right now and buy a new inductor later. Thanks man for this new year present, you rock!
Hi Luke, thank you so much for the video. You're giving me hope of saving my NeoGeo CD. It's been in storage for years with the exact same problem that yours had. Unfortunately, I'm not much of a soldering person, but luckily a friend of mine is giving my console a look. Hopefully my fix will be similar to yours so I can get back to enjoying that retro goodness. Just wanted to stop by and say thanks. My system isn't repaired yet, but the hope you've given me is more than enough reason for me to subscribe. Your channel is amazing! =)
You can learn to solder in an hour using the tutorials on RUclips and a scrap PCB for practicing on. If you're interested in retro electronics it's an easy skill to obtain and an essential skill to have! Good luck!
Haha, thanks a lot for that. Well, where there are people who appreciate it, there are those who dont and would rather criticize it on top of jealousy or telling the "secrets" of how to fix something which takes money away from others. I guess there is a balance of those who come to support and those who come to attack. I hope that this year brings more supporters lol. Thanks again and Happy 2014!
For those that don't work with electronics... When Luke marked the direction of the IC, there is also another indicator. There is a "1" on the PCB. The IC's first pin is going to line up with that indicator. The notch in the top of the IC indicates the side that contains pin 1. Pins generally are numbered counter-clockwise from that location. There are some circumstances where this is not clearly marked though. For example, I recently replaced a RIOT in an old Atari 2600 and I seem to recall that the first pin was not clearly marked on the PCB.
Great info man :) didnt even notice the 1 in this one but that being said, when I lifted the old chip you could also see the outline of the chip underneath which is also a common thing to see. with the older 80s arcade boards there arent any markings at all on the board for direction as well. The marking system really helped out a lot of people that is for sure :)
It looks suspiciously like they ended up putting resistors in the coil positions. Whilst its marked on the PCB as L blah, those seriously just look like resistors to me. Probably < 100 ohm, 1 ohm? Can't see colours of the bands. What manufacturers do occasionally is design the layout so you can isolate input / power to certain IC's via a coil. Atari did that with the Lynx. I suspect that the wattage of that resistor isn't quite high enough and that's why it has gone open circuit. EDIT: Seen your comment there about it being 41 microhenrys... I've never seen an inductor looking like that before =O
They look like resistors for sure but they are inductors, no doubt about it :) The rating for these are Inductor Rating: 41 Microhenrys, +/-10% and the little calculator www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/inductor-code-calculator.php such a pain but luckily this is what the problem was. I had never seen one before but since I could see the coil mark underneath it I started poking around and found out about these guys here, strange indeed. Thanks a lot man This had gotten the best of me a few years ago when I bought a neo geo cd that had this problem but wasnt able to fix it, hopefully this will help others.
Yes, I know you are correct! I did look at the bands earlier and they didn't look correct for a resistor - the first one being green I think. Just a very odd looking package that threw me - I've got resistors that look very similar in blue packages you see. Nice work! It's a great fix as well, the fact its just bridged won't make any noticeable difference at all.
+lukemorse1 isn't the second color purple (not brown)? making this a 47 uH inductor? I only ask because I have a console that has the same issue. Thank you....I would have never figured it out without your video!!
Fantastic fix there Luke. I hope to get a Neo Geo CD one day and will probably go for a faulty one to save some cash, so this video will be very useful.
Awesome job Luke, my hands are terrible with soldering ,very jittery. Its good to see the Neo Geo CD gets that revival of love again. :) Ehh on the side of Soldering or repairs my DSI sadly the cable that connects the battery to the unit itself is snagged so now the thing does not power on period. the bottom screen is scratched/damaged. Whoever owned it before me was a monster lol.
Thanks buddy. Like anything, it gets better with practice. Couldnt let this one die out that is for sure. If you want some help with the dsi I can see what I can do for you man. Take it easy Dan
Well done luke, another great piece of repair work and another great system brought back alive !!! as always very interesting to watch. Happy new year luke, Dal.
Hey Dal! thanks a lot for that man, I hope that gaming is going good for you over this new year and always appreciate the comments from you! Take it easy ScratchMaster!
Luke, is the power supply plug on this proprietary? or have you seen that pinout on other plugs? I managed to pick one of these up, but it did not have a power supply. And thanks again for more repair videos. :)
This is a common issue on that top loader, i have been replacing those same inductors there for years and only ever used a straight bridge. I have never had any issues with it after doing that. I have never had that issue with a front loader, and i don't think they have the inductors in there at all to begin with.
Is removing the chip nesessery? It looks like bad solder/connection. Was the problem internal connection in chip? For 27 years in electronic service, never had a weak internal connection problem like this in Eastern Europe.
Thanks for this video! I just had a question I know that we need for the 3 inductors in the Neo Geo CD a inductance of 47 µH and a tolerance of +-10%. Is there any other metric that I should take into account? There is the Current Rating (Amps), DC Resistance (DCR), Frequency - Self Resonant , etc. For ex. is a higher current rating better? (inductors seems to have a higher price when the current rating is higher). I just want to make sure I have the right part so if anyone can help that would be great! Thanks in advance!!!
Luke, try not to inhale the fumes from soldering and desoldering, they are kind of toxic. Maybe get a small ventilator or computer fan to blow the fumes away from your nose when working.
Nice job on saving a Neo CD! Do you think you could show how to fix the Neo CD controller? Mine is having issues. I tried fixing it back in '96, but didn't get very far. Thanks man.
Is that jumper something that you would want to replace in the future? Just curious about whether or not that may cause problems for the system in years to come.
Love your channel Luke, my question is if you can do a vid on Repairing the Neo Geo CD FRONT LOADER CD problems. What I have is the EJECT ICON flashes and the tray constantly ejects, dose not load anything. Thx.
Luke Thanks for the vid! But I think my Neo geo cd console suffers bigger problem, not only the screen is blank, but there's no sound, the cd drive don't seem to spin, and the system is dead silent... But strangely the power can still go through because the power light can still lit. What should I do?? Please help! Ps. This just happened yesterday
Hi, thanks for the video, a question, why not replacing the inductor, it will not appear problems later for just making a bridge? Also, what happened if there is not sound too? DO you know a method to fix that?
Hey Luke do you have repair vids on the Neo Geo Cd disk not spinning. I have a Neo Geo Cd that powers on, shows video but doesnt spin any game cds i put into it. I replaced the laser but it still doesnt spin any game disks i put into it so im a loss of what else to do.
I recommend checking the ribbon cable too man, make sure that none of the pins on the end of the cable are bent and make sure they are shiny and getting a good contact. You can go over the pins with a pencil eraser to shine them up, then re seat them and see if it works. Also, with new lasers they will usually have an anti-static blob of solder on them that needs to be removed before they are installed again, check to make sure that yours is removed. As a reference, look at the old laser and the new laser (especially on the circuit board of the laser) the second thing is check to make sure that the lid is closed and the pin isnt broken., Ill make a video, Just wait a couple of hours and Ill put one up for you ;)
Got same prob as user da bong powers on I get sync but no sound or video or cd spin or noise from system wish I has some parts to swap to rule out the main board but so far L1, L2, L4, L5 test good I was mot able to locate a L3 tho what should I check next I whould love some help Luke
Hey Luke I actually have a Neo Geo CD coming in tomorrow ($50 untested, why not?) and I absolutely refuse to pay $50 for a power supply and plan on hacking around on an external hard drive power supply to get my 10v and 5v from. Thing is, the adapter puts out 12v and 5v, was just wondering what kind of voltage regulators are in the NG CD and if it can take the extra 2v. Thanks bud!
+Jake ‘Zebular’ F Did you end up using that power adapter? I've ordered a broken Neo Geo CD from Japan for pretty damn cheap (same problem as the one in the video, it works but there's no video signal), but as far as I can tell, the seller isn't including anything. I can fabricate my own joystick and RGB cable with some parts, but the AC adapter is proprietary. I've seen that the HP External CD-Writer PSU fits and would most likely work, but again, it also has 12V instead of 10V. I run my MegaDrive off of 12V which works fine without a problem. So I'd like to hear if you ended up using it with the 12V and if your system runs stable, as well as the PSU not getting too hot.
+Daniël's Tech & Music Channel Yep I actually bought a cheap $5 psu off of eBay for an external hard drive that supplies 12v and 5v, soldered the break away molex connector it came with to the corresponding legs inside the NG CD and it works great!
Jake F Great to hear. I'll probably buy one of those HP External CD-Writers for real cheap, and just chuck the drive itself and keep the power adapter. Those fit so I don't need to mod the console.
i had a similar issue with one of my amiga CDTV's so i just took out the video board and bridged the connectors so video would then be sent to directly to the VGA port, works great even tho the video signal is unbuffer'd
Luke, I got a Choplifter arcade bord that I have no way of testing out. Would you be interested? I won't ask anything for it since I got it super cheap. Gimme a PM or le'me know how I can contact you properly and il give you the deets. Nice work again btw, love these repair vids.
Ah okay man il have a look, I didn't set it as that myself. Bloody RUclips... Il let you know if I work out how to unblock it. =] *EDIT* Okay, well after trial and error I think I sorted it. Couldn't find any help threads on Google. Gimme a shout if it's worked for you.
I have a Neo Geo CD and using an improper AC adapter to convert 240V into 100V I messed up the console. The red light doesn´t come up. No video or audio output. Having zero experience troubleshooting, what do you suggest me to check? Any fuse that could die during the process inside the original Neo Geo adapter or console?
If it is on the genesis I would first look at the a/v connector and make sure that it isnt cracked away from the board. Depending on if it has the RF and what you are using with it, it may be a different problem all together. Try to wiggle the cables in the back and if you get an image that its going to be your connector. It could be a different problem though
Hi Luke, someone at work, just bought their kid a PS4 and gave me their PS3 which was not working. So far I plugged it in and I get no display. It powers up and powers down properly, but no HDMI or PS Display port output. Any suggestions where to start to trouble shoot?
press the power button on and keep your finger held over it, it will beep and then turn off, then do the same thing again and it will beep and turn off, then when you do it the next time, it will quickly beep 3 times and you can release your hand from the power button and if it is just a display setting issue, you should be presented with a options menu screen where you can change around the settings. IF none of this happens and the system never jumps into this mode than it will be the GPU that has lifted from the board. This can be repaired 2 ways, you can have the whole GPU taken off and Re-balled which should be done by someone who really knows how to remove it, put new solder balls on the bottom an replace it, some people claim that they will do this when in fact what a lot of people do is put some flux under the chip, heat it up with a hot air gun then using some rubbing alcohol, remove the flux but will tell you that it has been "re-balled". Some people will tell you that heating up the chip will not last and is a bad Idea, I currently have over 6 of these systems and Ive never taken the gpu off of the board but also never had any problems with any of them.I know of others who have done the same thing and never had any problems, the problem comes when someone doesnt heat up the chip correctly, doesnt use the proper cooling method and thermal grease and they make a comment saying it doesnt work, other people just agree and soon enough everyone thinks that nothing works but that isnt true at all. You do not have to have a re-flow station or be a professional at fixing these kinds of things in order for it to work. The key is getting the gpu back down using the flux, removing the flux and finally putting on some Silver Grease which will reduce the heat a lot. Keeping the system in a well ventilated area and no on carpet or in a cabinet is also key. Never be afraid to try out something yourself either man, it leads to many experiences both good and bad but at least you can see what works and what doesnt.
Thanks for the detailed reply Luke I will try everything from step 1 and let you know how it goes. I have fixed an HP laptop in the past which had a similar GPU issue. I used a butane based soldering iron, removed the head and used it like a torch to heat up the contacts on the GPU, also I used a pop can as a shield for the components around the chip. I borrowed a temperature reader the kind that you aim a laser beam and tells you the surface temperature, that way I avoided cracking the chip once it reached the safest temperature which I think was around 103 Celsius. In that scenario the laptop was brought back to life. Hopefully doing the resiting instructions you gave me will do the trick. OH one last thing I forgot to mention, putting a DVD in the drive was doing something, again no audio or video, but at least I know the disc drive is working.
***** The instructions you gave me did the trick, I got a prompt to plug in a PS3 USB Controller to continue. So I'm going to pick up a controller today and see how much further I get. I will give this unit a good cleaning before I re assembled it, the fan area especially is quite dusty and so is the power supply.
***** So I picked up a PS3 Controller + Tekken just for testing. DVD's play but the game wont. So I suspect a few things. Corruption of Operating system or firmware, or the Blue Ray laser needs replacing. So right now I'm trying to rebuild the system via the Safe mode. Its going to take 7 hours to format the 120GB hard drive. Next I will try updaing the firmware, because it did complain about file corruption when i selected the 3rd option in the safe mode. If all that fails, I will try and clean the laser head could be dirty/dusty and last resort pickup a new laser, depending on the model I see them for $30-$60
Hey Luke! Great video, I have a Neo Geo CD which doesn't seem to output any image or sound however it turns on fine and I can hear it spinning a disc when the lid is closed. Any idea what might cause both audio and visual to fail? Thanks!
For anyone with a similar issue, an inductor had failed and the RGB encoder wasn't receiving 5v to one of its pins. A temporary bridge to a 5v rail got the console going so the chip was working perfectly, just the line going to it had issues.
***** well 1 has a blown power supply i been thinking since it is a switching power supply it could be bad transistors ? the other sometimes gets graphical errors or glitches ,on start up i'm thinking its a bad grafix chip if it is then it is way to far gone for me to fix.
One thing that happens with the neo cd power supplies is over time, the connector for the power wont make a good contact with the 3 pins. Her is something to do, it can be a bit difficult but lets give it a try. First, make sure that the power supply is UNPLUGGED, common sense but sometimes we all forget. If you have a multi-meter than you can check the voltages coming off of the three points, if all is ok then proceed to the next step, if you are asking yourself "Do I have a multi-meter" or "What the heck is a multi-meter"? then dont worry and go on to the next step lol. Next, if you can get a small eyeglass flat head screw driver what you are going to want to do is put it inside each of the 3 holes on the end of the cord and try to scrape away the inside of the connector, the inside holes are copper and will oxidize over time so scraping away helps out a lot. Next is the most challenging, using a pair of pliers or vice grips, you are going to have to be careful her but what you want to do is crush the holes just a little bit so they make a tighter fit when you put it back on, to do this, take your pliers and put them around the outside of the 3 holed plug end and squeeze a little, make sure to change the direction of where you apply pressure around the plug end so that each hole gets crushed just a little bit. Be very careful and only do this a little bit, if you do it too much, the hole will crush in half and then you will have to use your screwdriver to open it back up again and that is a pain. Once you go around the plug a little bit once then try to plug it back into your system and it SHOULD be quite a bit tighter, try to turn the power on then and see if you get power. If all is well with the power supply it should pop back on :) let me know if you need any other help man. You know what, this has been an issue for me in the past so I think Ill just make a quick video on it right now :/ , that may help out more. Look for a video on the power supply within the next couple of hours man
***** Hey Luke, I tried the multimeter tests you showed in your other vid and I get no reading from the 10V line and very a low reading from the 5V line so I'm assuming the power supply has given up the ghost. Tried the scratching and crimping technique regardless but still no results. Thanks for this long reply and the vid, despite it not working in my case that knowledge is out there now so can help others. Looks like I'll be finding a new power supply. I miss playing on the Neo. Thanks again Luke
I use that thing multiple times a day on various projects so I suppose it comes with practice. I need to buy another one here soon as this one is getting pretty rough all around.
Hi Luke, this video saved my NGCD !
Bought it 10 years ago on a yard sale for a really decent price. But no image and no sound !
Now it works perfectly !
Thanks again !
What I thought was the problem at the beginning of the video and what was the problem in the end were two different things. For anyone who wants to do this repair, Watch the WHOLE video, not just parts so you can see the mistakes of trial and error I went through with this unit. Thanks again.
Both L4 and L5 were faulty on mine, which I worked out thanks to this vid. I think the value is 47uH rather than 41uH though.
Ti devo ringraziare all'infinito, grazie a te ho riparato il mio Neo Geo CD....
Questi sono i video che ti aiutano veramente.
Grazie infinitamente.
Un saluto da Roma, Italia.
Aww, yeah! Another repair video from Luke! Score! Love how you take the time to position the camera and demonstrate the repair process for us, definitely a learning experience.
Those look so similar to what is also known as a fusible resistor. Very good repair.
So that's why viewpoint was playing in the background of your 2014 new year's video... :P Glad to see another classic game system saved from the scrapheap.
Technology can be a pain sometimes, to be sure. One little thing goes bad and unless you can fix it (or find someone else to) you've got yourself a fancy paperweight. Anyway excellent videos as always, have a good one!
Always cool seeing a game system like that saved. Well done.
You've just saved my second NGCD with the same problem. Thanks a lot =)
Holy s**t Luke, youre the Man! you just saved my Neo CD as well, I was about to sell it for parts this week after being siting there with this very same problem for years now and couldnt find the solution, After a quick test its the exact same inductor as your, gona put a jumper in it right now and buy a new inductor later. Thanks man for this new year present, you rock!
Hi Luke, thank you so much for the video. You're giving me hope of saving my NeoGeo CD. It's been in storage for years with the exact same problem that yours had. Unfortunately, I'm not much of a soldering person, but luckily a friend of mine is giving my console a look. Hopefully my fix will be similar to yours so I can get back to enjoying that retro goodness.
Just wanted to stop by and say thanks. My system isn't repaired yet, but the hope you've given me is more than enough reason for me to subscribe. Your channel is amazing! =)
You can learn to solder in an hour using the tutorials on RUclips and a scrap PCB for practicing on. If you're interested in retro electronics it's an easy skill to obtain and an essential skill to have! Good luck!
Great video Luke !
L4 is the culpit ! I recommand to replace all self with 47mh available on AliExpress :-)
In my case it was L5 but exactly the same issue. Nice work Luke :)
Excellent repair tutorial as always. My C64's video out died few months ago and I really should open it up and see whats up with that.
Wizard at work. I really hope you get even bigger audience this year as you deserve it
Haha, thanks a lot for that. Well, where there are people who appreciate it, there are those who dont and would rather criticize it on top of jealousy or telling the "secrets" of how to fix something which takes money away from others. I guess there is a balance of those who come to support and those who come to attack. I hope that this year brings more supporters lol. Thanks again and Happy 2014!
You are a life saver! Same issue, same inductor. Thanks!
For those that don't work with electronics... When Luke marked the direction of the IC, there is also another indicator. There is a "1" on the PCB. The IC's first pin is going to line up with that indicator. The notch in the top of the IC indicates the side that contains pin 1. Pins generally are numbered counter-clockwise from that location.
There are some circumstances where this is not clearly marked though. For example, I recently replaced a RIOT in an old Atari 2600 and I seem to recall that the first pin was not clearly marked on the PCB.
Great info man :) didnt even notice the 1 in this one but that being said, when I lifted the old chip you could also see the outline of the chip underneath which is also a common thing to see. with the older 80s arcade boards there arent any markings at all on the board for direction as well. The marking system really helped out a lot of people that is for sure :)
Thanks! I was able to repair my console thanks to your video.
It looks suspiciously like they ended up putting resistors in the coil positions. Whilst its marked on the PCB as L blah, those seriously just look like resistors to me. Probably < 100 ohm, 1 ohm? Can't see colours of the bands. What manufacturers do occasionally is design the layout so you can isolate input / power to certain IC's via a coil. Atari did that with the Lynx. I suspect that the wattage of that resistor isn't quite high enough and that's why it has gone open circuit.
EDIT: Seen your comment there about it being 41 microhenrys... I've never seen an inductor looking like that before =O
Well spotted by the way! Pretty cool to see an easy way to fix that no video out problem =)
They look like resistors for sure but they are inductors, no doubt about it :) The rating for these are Inductor Rating: 41 Microhenrys, +/-10%
and the little calculator
www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/inductor-code-calculator.php
such a pain but luckily this is what the problem was. I had never seen one before but since I could see the coil mark underneath it I started poking around and found out about these guys here, strange indeed. Thanks a lot man
This had gotten the best of me a few years ago when I bought a neo geo cd that had this problem but wasnt able to fix it, hopefully this will help others.
Yes, I know you are correct! I did look at the bands earlier and they didn't look correct for a resistor - the first one being green I think. Just a very odd looking package that threw me - I've got resistors that look very similar in blue packages you see. Nice work! It's a great fix as well, the fact its just bridged won't make any noticeable difference at all.
+lukemorse1 isn't the second color purple (not brown)? making this a 47 uH inductor? I only ask because I have a console that has the same issue. Thank you....I would have never figured it out without your video!!
Fantastic fix there Luke. I hope to get a Neo Geo CD one day and will probably go for a faulty one to save some cash, so this video will be very useful.
Six years later and I’m finally getting one with this exact issue :)
Thank you very much. You just helped me save this Neo Geo I got on eBay for $70.
Dude, mamy thanks because I saved mine for same reason. Short up L1 solved the issue.
Many thanks for sharing even if it was 8y ago 👌😏👍
Great fault finding Luke! I never knew inductors came in those packages. Good to know.
Awesome job Luke, my hands are terrible with soldering ,very jittery. Its good to see the Neo Geo CD gets that revival of love again. :) Ehh on the side of Soldering or repairs my DSI sadly the cable that connects the battery to the unit itself is snagged so now the thing does not power on period. the bottom screen is scratched/damaged. Whoever owned it before me was a monster lol.
Thanks buddy. Like anything, it gets better with practice. Couldnt let this one die out that is for sure. If you want some help with the dsi I can see what I can do for you man. Take it easy Dan
You sure isnt 47 Microhenrys, +/-10%? The second band in mine its a violet for sure instead of brown. And its the same spot as yours
thanks dude i fixed mine now i done the same replaced the video chip and now sorted it via your fix.
Well done luke, another great piece of repair work and another great system brought back alive !!! as always very interesting to watch.
Happy new year luke, Dal.
Hey Dal! thanks a lot for that man, I hope that gaming is going good for you over this new year and always appreciate the comments from you! Take it easy ScratchMaster!
I got one of these next to the AES. A good alternative to get affordable games on a NeoGeo machine. Good to learn about the common faults.
Luke, is the power supply plug on this proprietary? or have you seen that pinout on other plugs? I managed to pick one of these up, but it did not have a power supply. And thanks again for more repair videos. :)
Man, thanks for the video. I've got the same problem over here. Just looking forward to find the right inductor to fix my NGCD =)
Luke you are the Master of repair
And you my friend are the master of Metal Slug aes carts and PGM goodness! lol. Thanks a lot as always man :)
Well done as always, Luke. Top man.
Awesome work, now if only I had your luck with my turbo duo...
This is a common issue on that top loader, i have been replacing those same inductors there for years and only ever used a straight bridge. I have never had any issues with it after doing that. I have never had that issue with a front loader, and i don't think they have the inductors in there at all to begin with.
What is the specific chip called?
Informative and interesting as always. Thanks for the repair video.
Inductor Rating: 41 Microhenrys, +/-10%
Is removing the chip nesessery? It looks like bad solder/connection. Was the problem internal connection in chip? For 27 years in electronic service, never had a weak internal connection problem like this in Eastern Europe.
Thanks for this video! I just had a question I know that we need for the 3 inductors in the Neo Geo CD a inductance of 47 µH and a tolerance of +-10%. Is there any other metric that I should take into account? There is the Current Rating (Amps), DC Resistance (DCR), Frequency - Self Resonant
, etc. For ex. is a higher current rating better? (inductors seems to have a higher price when the current rating is higher). I just want to make sure I have the right part so if anyone can help that would be great! Thanks in advance!!!
Displays audio lmao, great video as always :D
Luke, try not to inhale the fumes from soldering and desoldering, they are kind of toxic. Maybe get a small ventilator or computer fan to blow the fumes away from your nose when working.
but that is the best part about the soldering :)
***** it does smell nice, but you can get asthma, so don't overdo it. Some fluxes are based on wood rosin, and they have a nice aroma.
Nice job on saving a Neo CD! Do you think you could show how to fix the Neo CD controller? Mine is having issues. I tried fixing it back in '96, but didn't get very far. Thanks man.
It's 47 uH. And a video encoder, not decoder. Can easily test inductors by seeing if they DON'T have continuity with power off.
Is that jumper something that you would want to replace in the future? Just curious about whether or not that may cause problems for the system in years to come.
something i am curious too. let's hope for anything wrong to happen without that inductor...
Hi Luke. Could you do a video on how to change a neo geo cd lens sometime? It's a common problem and really needs expert advice. Hope you are well!
Do you know where to buy new inductor 41 uH ? Bridge is futur proof ?
What wattage is that soldering iron? Mine uses much longer time to melt the solder, so sucking up the solder is much harder for me.
this is just a cheap 30w one from the hardware store :)
Oh, really. Everytime I try with my 100W it's impossible, do you think a 15W would work better? I got one as a present this christmas.
Can someone link the correct inductors? I cant find 41 microhenrys anywhere
Really interesting stuff. Good job.
Love your channel Luke, my question is if you can do a vid on Repairing the Neo Geo CD FRONT LOADER CD problems. What I have is the EJECT ICON flashes and the tray constantly ejects, dose not load anything. Thx.
Wow people actually liked this game
Very useful Luke, thank you!
Luke
Thanks for the vid! But I think my Neo geo cd console suffers bigger problem, not only the screen is blank, but there's no sound, the cd drive don't seem to spin, and the system is dead silent... But strangely the power can still go through because the power light can still lit. What should I do?? Please help!
Ps. This just happened yesterday
Same here.
Ty luke for the food for thought on the vid.
Thanks for this great video,
could you tell me where you got the new sony chip ?
both of my L4 and L5 was open it happened bcos the cxa1645p shortcircuit itself.
Great Video! Where can I buy this new chip to repair my NGCD??
Hi, thanks for the video, a question, why not replacing the inductor, it will not appear problems later for just making a bridge? Also, what happened if there is not sound too? DO you know a method to fix that?
Hey Luke do you have repair vids on the Neo Geo Cd disk not spinning. I have a Neo Geo Cd that powers on, shows video but doesnt spin any game cds i put into it. I replaced the laser but it still doesnt spin any game disks i put into it so im a loss of what else to do.
I recommend checking the ribbon cable too man, make sure that none of the pins on the end of the cable are bent and make sure they are shiny and getting a good contact. You can go over the pins with a pencil eraser to shine them up, then re seat them and see if it works. Also, with new lasers they will usually have an anti-static blob of solder on them that needs to be removed before they are installed again, check to make sure that yours is removed. As a reference, look at the old laser and the new laser (especially on the circuit board of the laser) the second thing is check to make sure that the lid is closed and the pin isnt broken., Ill make a video, Just wait a couple of hours and Ill put one up for you ;)
Good trouble shooting video, I don't have one of these games but enjoyed the video.
Got same prob as user da bong powers on I get sync but no sound or video or cd spin or noise from system wish I has some parts to swap to rule out the main board but so far L1, L2, L4, L5 test good I was mot able to locate a L3 tho what should I check next I whould love some help Luke
Hey Luke I actually have a Neo Geo CD coming in tomorrow ($50 untested, why not?) and I absolutely refuse to pay $50 for a power supply and plan on hacking around on an external hard drive power supply to get my 10v and 5v from. Thing is, the adapter puts out 12v and 5v, was just wondering what kind of voltage regulators are in the NG CD and if it can take the extra 2v. Thanks bud!
+Jake ‘Zebular’ F Did you end up using that power adapter? I've ordered a broken Neo Geo CD from Japan for pretty damn cheap (same problem as the one in the video, it works but there's no video signal), but as far as I can tell, the seller isn't including anything. I can fabricate my own joystick and RGB cable with some parts, but the AC adapter is proprietary. I've seen that the HP External CD-Writer PSU fits and would most likely work, but again, it also has 12V instead of 10V. I run my MegaDrive off of 12V which works fine without a problem. So I'd like to hear if you ended up using it with the 12V and if your system runs stable, as well as the PSU not getting too hot.
+Daniël's Tech & Music Channel Yep I actually bought a cheap $5 psu off of eBay for an external hard drive that supplies 12v and 5v, soldered the break away molex connector it came with to the corresponding legs inside the NG CD and it works great!
Jake F Great to hear. I'll probably buy one of those HP External CD-Writers for real cheap, and just chuck the drive itself and keep the power adapter. Those fit so I don't need to mod the console.
Great vid Luke you did it again :)
haha, thanks a lot man :)
i had a similar issue with one of my amiga CDTV's so i just took out the video board and bridged the connectors so video would then be sent to directly to the VGA port, works great even tho the video signal is unbuffer'd
Hi luke!
Do you know how to repair a top loader neo geo cd when the cd unit starts doing clicking noises?
Thanks in advance!
wow, TV Combo... thats retro! :D
Very Nice job Luke!
Thanks David, great to hear from you man!
Good save, Luke!
Thanks a lot man, really hoping it helps out others as well
awesome tutorial by the way!
Luke, I got a Choplifter arcade bord that I have no way of testing out. Would you be interested? I won't ask anything for it since I got it super cheap. Gimme a PM or le'me know how I can contact you properly and il give you the deets.
Nice work again btw, love these repair vids.
thanks a lot man, tried to give you a PM but it Contact Block is enabled so unless that is lifted I cannot respond :)
Ah okay man il have a look, I didn't set it as that myself. Bloody RUclips... Il let you know if I work out how to unblock it. =]
*EDIT* Okay, well after trial and error I think I sorted it. Couldn't find any help threads on Google. Gimme a shout if it's worked for you.
I have a Neo Geo CD and using an improper AC adapter to convert 240V into 100V I messed up the console. The red light doesn´t come up. No video or audio output. Having zero experience troubleshooting, what do you suggest me to check? Any fuse that could die during the process inside the original Neo Geo adapter or console?
I'm sorry to say that you probably fried it.
The power adapters fuse most likely blew up
i get this flickering problem on a sega genesis model 1 so do you think that my genesis has the same problem as the neo geo cd
If it is on the genesis I would first look at the a/v connector and make sure that it isnt cracked away from the board. Depending on if it has the RF and what you are using with it, it may be a different problem all together. Try to wiggle the cables in the back and if you get an image that its going to be your connector. It could be a different problem though
alright thanks luke
Quite of the video: "Smells like a burning atari"
Excelent :D thanks for the explaination
changed the chip no joy, checked L1,2,4,5 no joy. deeper look needed bah, hoped it would be easy
Hi Luke, someone at work, just bought their kid a PS4 and gave me their PS3 which was not working. So far I plugged it in and I get no display. It powers up and powers down properly, but no HDMI or PS Display port output. Any suggestions where to start to trouble shoot?
Naoki Saito
Both the power light (blue) and disc eject button are solid.
press the power button on and keep your finger held over it, it will beep and then turn off, then do the same thing again and it will beep and turn off, then when you do it the next time, it will quickly beep 3 times and you can release your hand from the power button and if it is just a display setting issue, you should be presented with a options menu screen where you can change around the settings. IF none of this happens and the system never jumps into this mode than it will be the GPU that has lifted from the board. This can be repaired 2 ways, you can have the whole GPU taken off and Re-balled which should be done by someone who really knows how to remove it, put new solder balls on the bottom an replace it, some people claim that they will do this when in fact what a lot of people do is put some flux under the chip, heat it up with a hot air gun then using some rubbing alcohol, remove the flux but will tell you that it has been "re-balled". Some people will tell you that heating up the chip will not last and is a bad Idea, I currently have over 6 of these systems and Ive never taken the gpu off of the board but also never had any problems with any of them.I know of others who have done the same thing and never had any problems, the problem comes when someone doesnt heat up the chip correctly, doesnt use the proper cooling method and thermal grease and they make a comment saying it doesnt work, other people just agree and soon enough everyone thinks that nothing works but that isnt true at all. You do not have to have a re-flow station or be a professional at fixing these kinds of things in order for it to work. The key is getting the gpu back down using the flux, removing the flux and finally putting on some Silver Grease which will reduce the heat a lot. Keeping the system in a well ventilated area and no on carpet or in a cabinet is also key. Never be afraid to try out something yourself either man, it leads to many experiences both good and bad but at least you can see what works and what doesnt.
Thanks for the detailed reply Luke I will try everything from step 1 and let you know how it goes. I have fixed an HP laptop in the past which had a similar GPU issue. I used a butane based soldering iron, removed the head and used it like a torch to heat up the contacts on the GPU, also I used a pop can as a shield for the components around the chip. I borrowed a temperature reader the kind that you aim a laser beam and tells you the surface temperature, that way I avoided cracking the chip once it reached the safest temperature which I think was around 103 Celsius. In that scenario the laptop was brought back to life. Hopefully doing the resiting instructions you gave me will do the trick.
OH one last thing I forgot to mention, putting a DVD in the drive was doing something, again no audio or video, but at least I know the disc drive is working.
*****
The instructions you gave me did the trick, I got a prompt to plug in a PS3 USB Controller to continue. So I'm going to pick up a controller today and see how much further I get. I will give this unit a good cleaning before I re assembled it, the fan area especially is quite dusty and so is the power supply.
*****
So I picked up a PS3 Controller + Tekken just for testing. DVD's play but the game wont. So I suspect a few things. Corruption of Operating system or firmware, or the Blue Ray laser needs replacing. So right now I'm trying to rebuild the system via the Safe mode. Its going to take 7 hours to format the 120GB hard drive. Next I will try updaing the firmware, because it did complain about file corruption when i selected the 3rd option in the safe mode. If all that fails, I will try and clean the laser head could be dirty/dusty and last resort pickup a new laser, depending on the model I see them for $30-$60
Why Sony cips allways fail ? it suppose to be a long lasting brand
Hey Luke! Great video, I have a Neo Geo CD which doesn't seem to output any image or sound however it turns on fine and I can hear it spinning a disc when the lid is closed. Any idea what might cause both audio and visual to fail? Thanks!
For anyone with a similar issue, an inductor had failed and the RGB encoder wasn't receiving 5v to one of its pins. A temporary bridge to a 5v rail got the console going so the chip was working perfectly, just the line going to it had issues.
can you make a video about fixing no backgorund music problems with neogeo cd
nice man, but daym does the neo geo cd looks so much easyer the work on than my 2 broken sega saturn's :/
haha, what is going on with the saturns? put up a vid and we will see what we can do to help out!
***** well 1 has a blown power supply i been thinking since it is a switching power supply it could be bad transistors ? the other sometimes gets graphical errors or glitches ,on start up i'm thinking its a bad grafix chip if it is then it is way to far gone for me to fix.
Hello luke could give me the reference of this inductor is mostly voltage.
My neo is that of a friend no more imagethank you
Luke my Neo Geo CD refuses to power on. I suspect the PSU but do you have any advice on what to try or look for before I purchase a new power supply?
One thing that happens with the neo cd power supplies is over time, the connector for the power wont make a good contact with the 3 pins. Her is something to do, it can be a bit difficult but lets give it a try.
First, make sure that the power supply is UNPLUGGED, common sense but sometimes we all forget. If you have a multi-meter than you can check the voltages coming off of the three points, if all is ok then proceed to the next step, if you are asking yourself "Do I have a multi-meter" or "What the heck is a multi-meter"? then dont worry and go on to the next step lol.
Next, if you can get a small eyeglass flat head screw driver what you are going to want to do is put it inside each of the 3 holes on the end of the cord and try to scrape away the inside of the connector, the inside holes are copper and will oxidize over time so scraping away helps out a lot. Next is the most challenging, using a pair of pliers or vice grips, you are going to have to be careful her but what you want to do is crush the holes just a little bit so they make a tighter fit when you put it back on, to do this, take your pliers and put them around the outside of the 3 holed plug end and squeeze a little, make sure to change the direction of where you apply pressure around the plug end so that each hole gets crushed just a little bit. Be very careful and only do this a little bit, if you do it too much, the hole will crush in half and then you will have to use your screwdriver to open it back up again and that is a pain. Once you go around the plug a little bit once then try to plug it back into your system and it SHOULD be quite a bit tighter, try to turn the power on then and see if you get power. If all is well with the power supply it should pop back on :) let me know if you need any other help man. You know what, this has been an issue for me in the past so I think Ill just make a quick video on it right now :/ , that may help out more. Look for a video on the power supply within the next couple of hours man
***** Hey Luke, I tried the multimeter tests you showed in your other vid and I get no reading from the 10V line and very a low reading from the 5V line so I'm assuming the power supply has given up the ghost. Tried the scratching and crimping technique regardless but still no results. Thanks for this long reply and the vid, despite it not working in my case that knowledge is out there now so can help others. Looks like I'll be finding a new power supply. I miss playing on the Neo. Thanks again Luke
Online shop for buy chip??
Wtf how quick you handle the desoldering pump. I can't take it anymore, i have to figure out why i do so poorly with it.
I use that thing multiple times a day on various projects so I suppose it comes with practice. I need to buy another one here soon as this one is getting pretty rough all around.
That chip is an encoder, not a decoder.
Just fixed mine. L4
i love you
Super!!!
Whoooo Whooo!
Smells like a burning Atari. lol
Maaf ya allah hamba liat ini.
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