Never worked on these falcons but what we used to do with 80's and 90's falcons was disconnect everything from engine and gearbox and put a dummy yoke in the gearbox to stop the oil coming out. Then jack up the rear end of the car and remove the engine and box at the same time. Take bonnet off. But having the rear end up gives a really good angle to slip both out very easy and clear the firewall. Just jacking up the rear end you can see how low it makes the radiator support. With a load leveler it would slip near straight in.
I know exactly what you mean mate, I used to do the same when I had my first cars… even had to use a massive tripod with a block and tackle to lift the engine up. The older falcons seemed to have a bit more room in the engine bay which helped too. The old gold in the gearbox was an awesome hack, used to have a spare one just for removing engines 😝
Cram watching this before tackling a barra removal in a BA wagon over the weekend 🫡 Someone else said jacking up the rear when it's time to rip the engine and trans out gives a ton more front body clearance. Well done on the derp-proof explanation and for recording while working 💪
Cheers mate, hopefully it was useful. Jacking up the back is probably a really good idea, could be really helpful accessing the top bellhousing bolts, possibly even the temp sensor on the back of the head.
Such a skill to film and work. I changed the exhaust, rotors, pads and ball joints on my car and the space is so limited especially when working underneath. Thanks heaps, your videos are giving me the confidence to get stuck in. (I won't be popping the Barra out any time soon though!!!)
Ah nice one mate, so rewarding when you can do these jobs on your own car. You get to know the car a little better each time and also save some cash in the process. I must admit, filming does use up a bit of time when you could just not film and get stuck into it. Pull the Barra out for sh@ts and giggles 😝
Mate good job, I have changed countless amounts of gearboxes and engines on these cars, even changed 6 speed ones people said you can't do, but couple of things I have learned to do, is when you undo the engine mounts, jack the engine up, take them out, DS easy first then PS u push the engine over a Lil and the other comes out, then u put engine down on crossmember, and when you undo the gearbox mount, all the bell housing bolts are easy to get to, starter motor more room to get to top bolt, and u don't break the temperature sensor, it stops u pushing the engine against the firewall and break the temp switch, but do the same in reverse, try it and see bud, and don't forget to do rear main engine seal, better done than than have to re-visit taking them apart, it happened to me.
Thats awesome mate, completely makes sense too… cheers for the tip. I actually kinda did something similar putting this one back in but in reverse to how you explained. It allowed me to get the engine right down so it almost lighted up the two guide pins on the block perfectly. I got a couple of bolts into the bellhousing then lowered it to rest on the crossmember… then I re aligned the chain to the front of the engine so it was basically just lifting up the front high enough to get the engine mounts back in…. So much easier. I didn’t think to get to the starter and the top bolt while it was down though. I’ll try and remember that for next time. Cheers mate, much appreciated 👍🏼
Yeah i found the more I did, easier ways I found how not to break things, lol, and forget where I put it, I am 52 bloke, working on cars all my life, if I said to you, you know the stripes on the bonnet of BA falcons, I bought a new blue pearl BA GT, picked it up, but car didn't make it home, instead to Nova Ford in Caboolture, Ford gave me another GT, to keep me quiet, because I was pissed off, they offered me every thing in their catalogue.
But being a GT I wanted something done to car, so they painted stripes like I drew for them,because they gave me another car full of problems, anyway I went to the John Bowe driver training day, which you got for buying a FPV, I still have the key ring, but my GT was the only car with that stripe, v8 super cars inspired me, so o can say I started that craze, git emails to prove it.
@@Jeenzy79 I like that colour blue, I had a sensation BF, bought a turbo ex police car from pickles auction swapped everything into my sensation colour car.
That is probably the most detailed description of removing a Barra I have seen. That temp sensor can be an issue reinstalling the engine also. If it snaps off going in an you don't realise it. Very difficult to replace. You have drop the gearbox down at the back to get proper access. I think you have done it a few times before. Genuine ones on line are $139.00 at Jefferson. Are you going to do the front gearbox seal while you have it out,? Looking forward to the next video.
Cheers mate, I tried to get in as much of the small finicky stuff in as I could. I knew I had a spare sensor but I still wasn’t planning on breaking the one that was in it so I was pretty lucky. I didn’t do the input seal but luckily it had no signs of want leaking when I cleaned up the bell housing.
Hey mate, I had touched on changing out the rear main seal in a previous video so I didn’t actually film changing it out this time round. Cheers for the feedback too mate, much appreciated. 👍🏼
Good work and getting rid of that stupid plastic thermostat arrangement under BF1 manifold is a worthwhile reliability increaser. The BA2 didnt have it and the BF2 didnt have it so even Ford must have known early on it was a mistake on the BF1.
Cheers mate, luckily I had a spare engine siting with the better set up on it. The plastic setup just makes you wonder why they went that way in the first place.
You ever had that black 4 hose spliter that you changed whistle when break idk why myn did it changed idle pulley belt intake gasket befor i found that thing was had the smallest pin hole leak cuaseing a high pitch whistle when water pumped through itb😅
Hey mate, tbh this is the first one I’ve come across with that hose splitter thingy setup. Not sure if it’s a BA early BF specific thing or not? I’ve only owned BF’s not any BA’s so I’m not sure if that’s why. I can only imagine what a pain I. The ass that would’ve been to find, especially doing the intake gasket… that would not be a fun job to do in the car 😆 At least you finally figured it out.
@@Jeenzy79 myns a 06 bf so could be just a bf thing if you take the top of then get all the bolts out the block you can pull it back just enough to drop the gasket out the bottom and feed it back through the top
Hey mate I gotta take my 6 speed manual FG motor out soon, I’m hoping it’s a really similar procedure 🙏 Where and how did you hook up the crane? I’ve never done this before cheers
@@bluemicrobe7744 Ah nice one mate. I haven’t removed a manual engine from one of these cars but I imagine it would be a similar process. One thing to keep in mind with a manual is the clutch and pressure plate are bolted to the flywheel so you would need to slide the engine quite a way forward for the input shaft from the gearbox to clear them. The auto’s just have the flex plate on the back of the engine and just that alone is quite a tight fit in actually lifting it in and out. I could be wrong tho. As far as hooking up the engine there are two lifting points already bolted to the head which makes it really easy to lift out.
@@Watyusay Hey mate… once you’ve taken the 4 converter bolts out, when you lift up the engine the converter will just stay where it is. Provided the transmission is still fairly level, if you don’t support the transmission with a jack or something similar it could drop down once the engine is removed which could possibly cause the converter to slide off the input shaft and onto the floor. But support the transmission and you shouldn’t have an issue. Cheers.
Never worked on these falcons but what we used to do with 80's and 90's falcons was disconnect everything from engine and gearbox and put a dummy yoke in the gearbox to stop the oil coming out. Then jack up the rear end of the car and remove the engine and box at the same time. Take bonnet off. But having the rear end up gives a really good angle to slip both out very easy and clear the firewall. Just jacking up the rear end you can see how low it makes the radiator support. With a load leveler it would slip near straight in.
I know exactly what you mean mate, I used to do the same when I had my first cars… even had to use a massive tripod with a block and tackle to lift the engine up. The older falcons seemed to have a bit more room in the engine bay which helped too. The old gold in the gearbox was an awesome hack, used to have a spare one just for removing engines 😝
Great job ,no mucking around straight into it ,very informative cheers mate
@@steventapp4380 Thanks mate, hopefully some people find it useful
This is the best video, step by step removing engine. Thank you so much.
Thanks mate 👍🏼
Cram watching this before tackling a barra removal in a BA wagon over the weekend 🫡
Someone else said jacking up the rear when it's time to rip the engine and trans out gives a ton more front body clearance. Well done on the derp-proof explanation and for recording while working 💪
Cheers mate, hopefully it was useful. Jacking up the back is probably a really good idea, could be really helpful accessing the top bellhousing bolts, possibly even the temp sensor on the back of the head.
Such a skill to film and work. I changed the exhaust, rotors, pads and ball joints on my car and the space is so limited especially when working underneath. Thanks heaps, your videos are giving me the confidence to get stuck in. (I won't be popping the Barra out any time soon though!!!)
Ah nice one mate, so rewarding when you can do these jobs on your own car. You get to know the car a little better each time and also save some cash in the process.
I must admit, filming does use up a bit of time when you could just not film and get stuck into it.
Pull the Barra out for sh@ts and giggles 😝
Mate good job, I have changed countless amounts of gearboxes and engines on these cars, even changed 6 speed ones people said you can't do, but couple of things I have learned to do, is when you undo the engine mounts, jack the engine up, take them out, DS easy first then PS u push the engine over a Lil and the other comes out, then u put engine down on crossmember, and when you undo the gearbox mount, all the bell housing bolts are easy to get to, starter motor more room to get to top bolt, and u don't break the temperature sensor, it stops u pushing the engine against the firewall and break the temp switch, but do the same in reverse, try it and see bud, and don't forget to do rear main engine seal, better done than than have to re-visit taking them apart, it happened to me.
Thats awesome mate, completely makes sense too… cheers for the tip. I actually kinda did something similar putting this one back in but in reverse to how you explained. It allowed me to get the engine right down so it almost lighted up the two guide pins on the block perfectly. I got a couple of bolts into the bellhousing then lowered it to rest on the crossmember… then I re aligned the chain to the front of the engine so it was basically just lifting up the front high enough to get the engine mounts back in…. So much easier. I didn’t think to get to the starter and the top bolt while it was down though. I’ll try and remember that for next time.
Cheers mate, much appreciated 👍🏼
Yeah i found the more I did, easier ways I found how not to break things, lol, and forget where I put it, I am 52 bloke, working on cars all my life, if I said to you, you know the stripes on the bonnet of BA falcons, I bought a new blue pearl BA GT, picked it up, but car didn't make it home, instead to Nova Ford in Caboolture, Ford gave me another GT, to keep me quiet, because I was pissed off, they offered me every thing in their catalogue.
But being a GT I wanted something done to car, so they painted stripes like I drew for them,because they gave me another car full of problems, anyway I went to the John Bowe driver training day, which you got for buying a FPV, I still have the key ring, but my GT was the only car with that stripe, v8 super cars inspired me, so o can say I started that craze, git emails to prove it.
@@Jeenzy79 I like that colour blue, I had a sensation BF, bought a turbo ex police car from pickles auction swapped everything into my sensation colour car.
Oh, that would’ve been awesome mate. I’d love to get turbo running gear for my Fairmont
Well done. Helped alot of back yard barra builders.
Thanks mate, just filming as I go.
Cheers 👍🏼
That is probably the most detailed description of removing a Barra I have seen. That temp sensor can be an issue reinstalling the engine also. If it snaps off going in an you don't realise it. Very difficult to replace. You have drop the gearbox down at the back to get proper access. I think you have done it a few times before. Genuine ones on line are $139.00 at Jefferson. Are you going to do the front gearbox seal while you have it out,? Looking forward to the next video.
Cheers mate, I tried to get in as much of the small finicky stuff in as I could. I knew I had a spare sensor but I still wasn’t planning on breaking the one that was in it so I was pretty lucky. I didn’t do the input seal but luckily it had no signs of want leaking when I cleaned up the bell housing.
This guy has "skills"!
One handed repairs and engine changeover!
@@alexterehoff2888 Aha cheers mate! 👍🏼
100% mate. Great video. Many thanks for taking the time to make it.
Cheers bud. Are you going to film the rear seal replacement? You are a natural at filming these jobs mate, keep it up.
Hey mate, I had touched on changing out the rear main seal in a previous video so I didn’t actually film changing it out this time round.
Cheers for the feedback too mate, much appreciated. 👍🏼
Very good video and well explained.
Cheers mate, I appreciate the feedback. 👍🏼
The power steering line you had in your hand looked more like an aircon high pressure line with the test valve and cap on it
You’re right… it kinda does look like an a/c line doesn’t it.
Great effort mate your a champion
Cheers mate 🍻
What an excellent video!
Engine removal for dummies !!
@@handlebarmonkeymotoadventu4664 Cheers mate 🍻
Good work and getting rid of that stupid plastic thermostat arrangement under BF1 manifold is a worthwhile reliability increaser. The BA2 didnt have it and the BF2 didnt have it so even Ford must have known early on it was a mistake on the BF1.
Cheers mate, luckily I had a spare engine siting with the better set up on it. The plastic setup just makes you wonder why they went that way in the first place.
So far so good, you do make it look easy but.
It’s getting there. Cheers mate 👍🏼
Great work, and thanks for taking the time and effort to video! Cheers
Thanks mate, as always…
Was a little time consuming but turned out ok.
Cheers 👍🏼
You ever had that black 4 hose spliter that you changed whistle when break idk why myn did it changed idle pulley belt intake gasket befor i found that thing was had the smallest pin hole leak cuaseing a high pitch whistle when water pumped through itb😅
Hey mate, tbh this is the first one I’ve come across with that hose splitter thingy setup. Not sure if it’s a BA early BF specific thing or not? I’ve only owned BF’s not any BA’s so I’m not sure if that’s why. I can only imagine what a pain I. The ass that would’ve been to find, especially doing the intake gasket… that would not be a fun job to do in the car 😆
At least you finally figured it out.
@@Jeenzy79 myns a 06 bf so could be just a bf thing if you take the top of then get all the bolts out the block you can pull it back just enough to drop the gasket out the bottom and feed it back through the top
Hey mate I gotta take my 6 speed manual FG motor out soon, I’m hoping it’s a really similar procedure 🙏
Where and how did you hook up the crane? I’ve never done this before cheers
@@bluemicrobe7744 Ah nice one mate. I haven’t removed a manual engine from one of these cars but I imagine it would be a similar process. One thing to keep in mind with a manual is the clutch and pressure plate are bolted to the flywheel so you would need to slide the engine quite a way forward for the input shaft from the gearbox to clear them. The auto’s just have the flex plate on the back of the engine and just that alone is quite a tight fit in actually lifting it in and out. I could be wrong tho.
As far as hooking up the engine there are two lifting points already bolted to the head which makes it really easy to lift out.
Great video mate, very helpful
Thanks mate.
Have ya done a video of putting it back in
No I haven’t sorry mate.
What about converter. After take bolts out and lift the motor did you have to separate it with screw drive or did it sort its self out mate ?
@@Watyusay Hey mate… once you’ve taken the 4 converter bolts out, when you lift up the engine the converter will just stay where it is. Provided the transmission is still fairly level, if you don’t support the transmission with a jack or something similar it could drop down once the engine is removed which could possibly cause the converter to slide off the input shaft and onto the floor. But support the transmission and you shouldn’t have an issue. Cheers.
Legend man, appreciate it
@@Crywolffsw Hope you found it useful mate 👍🏼
Very nice.
Cheers mate. 👍🏼
Step 1: Watch the footy
Step 2: Eat sausage rolls
Got it 😃👍
Exactly mate, priorities 😂
chur
“Ten mill” socket
not “ten mill” bolt
🤦🏼
My bad… I’ll do better next time 😂