Our shower leaked!! Let's repair it with a bit of re-siliconing work... DOW785 amzn.to/3RpO4ax (Amazon UK) geni.us/SJsn (Amazon Worldwide) Silicone Application Tool amzn.to/46Z81L8 (Amazon UK) geni.us/iD3SnE (Amazon Worldwide) Silicone Removal Tool amzn.to/4apy5BV (Amazon UK) geni.us/VAJfmM (Amazon Worldwide) Sealant Remover Solution amzn.to/41nPmHz (Amazon UK) geni.us/sbXvkBl (Amazon Worldwide) Mould Spray amzn.to/46UAnWU (Amazon UK) geni.us/GhBR (Amazon Worldwide) 4" Scraper Blade amzn.to/3GK9p9G (Amazon UK) geni.us/rg8ej4M (Amazon Worldwide) 🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨 For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon associate I may earn from qualifying purchases UK affiliate store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown 🤝 HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL 🤝 Support with RUclips channel membership: ruclips.net/channel/UCVyE_6jEtVZGmYGXtUOL5FQjoin Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown Shop With Amazon using my affiliate link: geni.us/iWD3K 💰 SHOP 💰 Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch 🎧 WORKSHOP BANTER PODCAST 🎧 ruclips.net/user/workshopbanter Also available on Spotify, Apple, Google and most other podcast platforms 🔗 LINKS: 🔗 Website: www.ragnbonebrown.com Facebook: facebook.com/ragnbonebrown Instagram: @ragnbonebrown Twitter: twitter.com/ragnbonebrown Email: ragnbonebrown@gmail.com Second RUclips Channel (non woodwork videos): ruclips.net/user/keefykeef
Another tip is to place as much weight on the shower tray before you start siliconing and leave in there until fully cured. As this will take up the tiny bit of movement that occurs every time someone uses the shower , thus causing silicon failure. You may not be able to see it but it is there. Also when doing a bath fill it with water for the same reason.
I'm a carpenter/builder and do bathroom and kitchen silicone regularly. I'd recommend using a very soapy water mix in a spray bottle and cutting different thickness wooden sticks for smoothing instead of fingers or tools . If the stick and silicone are soapy enough the excess is cut/scraped away by the stick and the waste silicone you can actually handle with zero mess . 1 or 2 goes and you'll throw away the tools and masking tape . I also would never seal the inside of the screen , even the vertical as a lot of them are designed to drain so just blob around the rawl plug holes . But best follow manufacturers instructions for every single one so your covered by warranty and insurance
Always check your schower enclosure istallation instructions as usually you dont silicone any of the internals, only the outsides. This means water that gets into the aluminium extrusions etc is able to escape back into the shower. It would be worth double checking your instructions as you siliconed the insides and not the outsides. Therefore you have potentially blocked the escape route for the water and the outside is now the only escape route through the already failed silicone. So i would suggest monitorfor further issues. A quick test that may show up any remaining issues is to direct the shower head on the location of the old leaks and see if you can witness water on the outside. The small gap between the enclosure and the wall will make access difficult, you can get extending nozzles and bendy nozzles or you may need to remove the glass so you can access where you need to silicone. However as i said at the start check the installation instructions as your plumber may have installed a screen that does require internal silicone for this reason, though i would be surprised. Hopefully what you have done is correct 👍 Edit: On watching the start of the video again, i am not convinced there is any silicone at all on the outside, i think this is the problem and the wrongly the wrongly installed internal silicone is stopping most of the water getting out but any that does get into the aluminium extrusion is trickling down internally and then exiting at the bottom of the extrusion down on to the skirting board. I think this problem is going to persist as is.
This is very timely as I am intending to sort out a shower tray leak myself this weekend. By the way, I don't know why all trays don't have a lip on the edge. A previous tray we owned had this and we never had the tray leak. The one we have now does not and leaks about every two years, requiring me to mess about reapply the silicon.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but, you'll be back in the same position in a couple of years or sooner. The cause of the 'leak' is not silicone failure but incorrect installation of the screen, and without removing the screen, it's almost impossible to fix. The intersection between the tray and the tiles, at the point where the screen is to be installed, has to be properly sealed BEFORE the screen is fitted. In use, water will always get between the profile and the tiles (it's designed to work like this, which is why, as you said, you only seal on the outside). This water runs down the wall and runs back into the tray. If that joint at the bottom was not properly sealed at the time of installation, some of this water finds its way into the gap between tile and tray, as well as running back into the tray. Some people try and seal the inside as well in an effort to fix the problem but unknowingly make it a lot worse. The shower profile is then sealed on the inside and outside, trapping any water which will then escape through that poorly sealed /unsealed joint at the intersection between tray, tiles and shower profile. I'm now retired but was a bathroom fitter for 25 years. If I had a reputation, I would stake it on this being the problem. It's an issue I came across time and time again when ripping out otherwise decent showers, where a leak at this point had ruined things. Sorry for not offering a solution but it is almost impossible to rectify without removing the shower screen.
Neat job Keith. I had to redo the silicone on our shower a couple of months ago. I didn't have the silicone tools but I made do with an old Tesco clubcard with a 10z10mm chamfer cut into one of the corners. Probably not as good the proper tools, but it hasn't leaked so far. I never thought of spraying anti mould spray directly into the gap, but I'll remember next time round. Hope I don't regret it.
Cheers Keith, good tips there. Our silicone has been on our shower mould free for about 10 years and still pretty good condition. I spray it with Cillit Bang limescale once a week except for every 4th week where I spray Cillit Bang Black Mould Spray and it never gets the chance to mould up...
I use to tape off also but I’ve found that if you apply you bead then spray the area with glass cleaner, that stops the silicone from sticking to areas you don’t want, when you use the profile tools
It always helps when the shower is big enough to work in. At work I have to re-silicone showers that are barely big enough for 1 person can get the old stuff out and new stuff in and profiled in 20 minutes
I follow the same process, but add two things: clean the area with alcohol just before applying the silicone (never mineral spirits) and use the soapy water trick that a few people already mentioned.
CT1 is not great for long term solution to use as a silicone. I had quite a few call outs to come back and replace it, it started to be mouldy after couple of months. manufacturer of CT1 have other product created specially for bathroom use called BT1. BT1 stays white for longer but it's quite runny so difficult to work with. Personally I like everbuild forever white, mapei silicones are good, Dow silicone is good too.
I’m also an infrequent and shite siliconer. Got a tip last time though. Window/glass cleaner is great to help wipe away any excess. Nice job though with the tape 👌🏼
Charlie does have an inordinate amount of siliconing content on his channel! I also got the squeegee tip from him too as he also has an inordinate amount of content on ventilation and moisture control!
Well you may have read my mind! I have to do the same in a relative's shower. Great tips, I will be using the silicone remover for the first time. I might even do my own shower! 👍
Not usually into videos with men’s feet in them but that was good!! Nice cat. 🤙 Good to see someone else going the way of the braces, I hammered some batchelor buttons onto my work breeches a few weeks ago and I’m never going back to a belt, so much comfier.
I installed both my shower two years ago and used a classi seal all round. This is a flexible seal on the inside of the trays so if the outer seal fail then is is double protected and cannot leak to the outside. I'm surprised an installer did not do this. I usedthe sealant tools without any tape though.
I like to use old gift cards to spread the caulking. Works great and if the edge gets messed up there are three more. Plus you're not out anything when it's outlived it's use. You're likely to get more next birthday or Christmas......
I like the tape tip. I had to redo the bath after taking the panel off. It was not pretty but it's clear so you can't tell unless you get really close! 😁
Perfectly timed, I needed a kick up the arse to get our tray resealed. This has done just that and ordered all the bits through your links (I hope they’re affiliate links!)
It’s a bummer the seal failed, hopefully your fix will last a long time. When we remodeled our main bathroom, we put our vent fan on a timer. It seems small bit it’s honestly one of the best things we did for the remodel. We can choose 10, 20, 30, or 60 minutes and we never have to worry about a steamed up bath, or whether the spicy curry got the best of us. 😂😷
Like Trish, I love my vent fan timer. I put a motion sensor on the vent fan in my secondary bathroom for my airbnb guests - so they can't forget to vent the bathroom (also, a timer option may confuse them). Both of my bathrooms are windowless, so it's important to exhaust them.
Thanks Keith, practical and to the point just what I like about your content, the bathroom still looks fantastic by the way, lovin' the dramatic music for the before shot ! 😉
I really would look at buying a set of silicone smoothing tools that have the little legs that allows the tools to bridge the grout gaps in the tiles and stops the annoying bit where the tool catches the tile edge. Sounds like your plumber may have cut a few corners when it come to siliconing. I always like to have 2 layers of silicone, when installing a bathtub for example I put in a bead of silicone before tiling and then when tiled I put the finish layer.
Hi Keith, Used that silicone many times in my decorating career. It probably is the best of the bunch. but good luck with 5 years! it will fail in that shower is in constant use...they all do. Did you get my trick with washing up liquid on finger to smooth silicone. I've never got on with those plastic tools. Trust your finger! Also this method helps to push the silicone further in the gaps rather than relying on your pressure with the gun. Notice my name has now dropped off your list of supporters. I am still a supporter ! Nice vid as always Rob Mucklow
Hi Rob this video was filmed and uploaded a month or two ago now so the end member list is probably out of date, normal service will be resumed next week! My buddy Aiden disagrees with the washing up liquid trick, says it makes the silicone fail... I have a suspicion he's making a video about it soon.... I don't know either way to be honest but I get on ok without it 👍
If it failed early, it is often due to movement between the two things being sealed. Worth checking there is no wobble in the shower screen/wall, and no bounce on the tray.
Product, surface, and joint design. Buy the most expensive silicone you can find, clean surfaces spotless with multiple rags and alcohol or even better acetone solvents, and follow industry and manufacturer best practices for joint design. That last one requires a lot of study, and is why amateur joints fail, yet the windows, doors, and showers built in factories tend to not fail. Note that modern skyscrapers have all their windows held on by silicone, not clips or screws, so silicone is indestructible when installed properly. If it fails, something was done wrong.
One of my least favourite jobs. My shower tray tends to start leaking around the edges every 2-3 years and I'm not sure if that is what is to be expected or if I have been using a poor quality silicone sealant perhaps. How long should it usually last?
I have my bath / shower to finish this weekend with same type of Wilson waiting to go. It has been about 9 years since doing mine originally. BTW I hate siliconing, with a passion.
I've seen and heard that using masking tape leaves a slight raised lip for water to settle in and eventually lead to mould and failing. I don't know how else you could get a clean bead of silicone though.
By using the tape you have created a ledge for water to sit at the top of the silicone. Choose which size profile you want and then cut the nozzle slightly larger, that way you get a bead big enough to tool afterwards. I would also recommend using meths or white spirit to degrease the area prior to silicone. CT1 Multi Solve is also great for this.
the chamfered edge is on that tool for a reason, when dragging it along, it forces the sealant into the gap/cavity, then once you have done one pass that way, you turn it around to the flat side, then scrape up and left overs
Read a good tip to remove silicone a few years ago by a plumber on RUclips he compared silicone remover and WD40 I'd used the silicone remover will some success but the WD40 was much better if you need remore silicone in the future give a try
As mentioned before, only silicone the outside of frame and glass. Also squeegee is best used other way round. Horrible job to do anyway. Thanks for sharing 👍
Excellent work, Keith! Nicely done! 😃 Just don't use alcohol to clean there. It makes the silicon give up! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
@RagnBoneBrown you sealed the metal trim that the glass screen is installed into, not saying you did a bad job. I see it all the time, any screen shower door, etc, should only be sealed from the outside
I think he addressed this in saying that he removes the tape before it's fully cured. You can go over it once more with the tool. To ensure there's no lip.
Silicone is invincible if the joint is designed correctly, that's why all exterior windows and doors (including every skyscraper in the world) is made with silicone.
Our shower leaked!! Let's repair it with a bit of re-siliconing work...
DOW785 amzn.to/3RpO4ax (Amazon UK) geni.us/SJsn (Amazon Worldwide)
Silicone Application Tool amzn.to/46Z81L8 (Amazon UK) geni.us/iD3SnE (Amazon Worldwide)
Silicone Removal Tool amzn.to/4apy5BV (Amazon UK) geni.us/VAJfmM (Amazon Worldwide)
Sealant Remover Solution amzn.to/41nPmHz (Amazon UK) geni.us/sbXvkBl (Amazon Worldwide)
Mould Spray amzn.to/46UAnWU (Amazon UK) geni.us/GhBR (Amazon Worldwide)
4" Scraper Blade amzn.to/3GK9p9G (Amazon UK) geni.us/rg8ej4M (Amazon Worldwide)
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Another tip is to place as much weight on the shower tray before you start siliconing and leave in there until fully cured. As this will take up the tiny bit of movement that occurs every time someone uses the shower , thus causing silicon failure. You may not be able to see it but it is there. Also when doing a bath fill it with water for the same reason.
I'm a carpenter/builder and do bathroom and kitchen silicone regularly. I'd recommend using a very soapy water mix in a spray bottle and cutting different thickness wooden sticks for smoothing instead of fingers or tools . If the stick and silicone are soapy enough the excess is cut/scraped away by the stick and the waste silicone you can actually handle with zero mess . 1 or 2 goes and you'll throw away the tools and masking tape . I also would never seal the inside of the screen , even the vertical as a lot of them are designed to drain so just blob around the rawl plug holes . But best follow manufacturers instructions for every single one so your covered by warranty and insurance
Always check your schower enclosure istallation instructions as usually you dont silicone any of the internals, only the outsides. This means water that gets into the aluminium extrusions etc is able to escape back into the shower. It would be worth double checking your instructions as you siliconed the insides and not the outsides. Therefore you have potentially blocked the escape route for the water and the outside is now the only escape route through the already failed silicone. So i would suggest monitorfor further issues. A quick test that may show up any remaining issues is to direct the shower head on the location of the old leaks and see if you can witness water on the outside. The small gap between the enclosure and the wall will make access difficult, you can get extending nozzles and bendy nozzles or you may need to remove the glass so you can access where you need to silicone. However as i said at the start check the installation instructions as your plumber may have installed a screen that does require internal silicone for this reason, though i would be surprised. Hopefully what you have done is correct 👍
Edit: On watching the start of the video again, i am not convinced there is any silicone at all on the outside, i think this is the problem and the wrongly the wrongly installed internal silicone is stopping most of the water getting out but any that does get into the aluminium extrusion is trickling down internally and then exiting at the bottom of the extrusion down on to the skirting board. I think this problem is going to persist as is.
This is very timely as I am intending to sort out a shower tray leak myself this weekend. By the way, I don't know why all trays don't have a lip on the edge. A previous tray we owned had this and we never had the tray leak. The one we have now does not and leaks about every two years, requiring me to mess about reapply the silicon.
I’m a plumber I would recommend getting the no nonsense silicone moulding tools, also that dows is very good
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but, you'll be back in the same position in a couple of years or sooner. The cause of the 'leak' is not silicone failure but incorrect installation of the screen, and without removing the screen, it's almost impossible to fix. The intersection between the tray and the tiles, at the point where the screen is to be installed, has to be properly sealed BEFORE the screen is fitted. In use, water will always get between the profile and the tiles (it's designed to work like this, which is why, as you said, you only seal on the outside). This water runs down the wall and runs back into the tray. If that joint at the bottom was not properly sealed at the time of installation, some of this water finds its way into the gap between tile and tray, as well as running back into the tray. Some people try and seal the inside as well in an effort to fix the problem but unknowingly make it a lot worse. The shower profile is then sealed on the inside and outside, trapping any water which will then escape through that poorly sealed /unsealed joint at the intersection between tray, tiles and shower profile. I'm now retired but was a bathroom fitter for 25 years. If I had a reputation, I would stake it on this being the problem. It's an issue I came across time and time again when ripping out otherwise decent showers, where a leak at this point had ruined things. Sorry for not offering a solution but it is almost impossible to rectify without removing the shower screen.
I don’t know why, but I like watching silicone videos
Me too 😁
Neat job Keith. I had to redo the silicone on our shower a couple of months ago. I didn't have the silicone tools but I made do with an old Tesco clubcard with a 10z10mm chamfer cut into one of the corners. Probably not as good the proper tools, but it hasn't leaked so far. I never thought of spraying anti mould spray directly into the gap, but I'll remember next time round. Hope I don't regret it.
Every little helps…. 👍🏻
Cheers Keith, good tips there. Our silicone has been on our shower mould free for about 10 years and still pretty good condition. I spray it with Cillit Bang limescale once a week except for every 4th week where I spray Cillit Bang Black Mould Spray and it never gets the chance to mould up...
I need to do this also at home! the silicone is nasty and has like 10 years! congrats on not delaying this as much as I do :D
I use to tape off also but I’ve found that if you apply you bead then spray the area with glass cleaner, that stops the silicone from sticking to areas you don’t want, when you use the profile tools
It always helps when the shower is big enough to work in. At work I have to re-silicone showers that are barely big enough for 1 person can get the old stuff out and new stuff in and profiled in 20 minutes
I follow the same process, but add two things: clean the area with alcohol just before applying the silicone (never mineral spirits) and use the soapy water trick that a few people already mentioned.
Nice job. I hate doing this job, and I had to tackle it again just this weekend. My plumber recommended at CT1 type sealant.
CT1 is not great for long term solution to use as a silicone.
I had quite a few call outs to come back and replace it, it started to be mouldy after couple of months.
manufacturer of CT1 have other product created specially for bathroom use called BT1. BT1 stays white for longer but it's quite runny so difficult to work with.
Personally I like everbuild forever white, mapei silicones are good, Dow silicone is good too.
can't wait for Keith to jump into the world of 3D printing as well.
I’m also an infrequent and shite siliconer. Got a tip last time though. Window/glass cleaner is great to help wipe away any excess. Nice job though with the tape 👌🏼
You should watch Charlie DIY's silicon tips, you've made a few mistakes that may result in it not sealing as well as it should - mainly using tape.
Charlie does have an inordinate amount of siliconing content on his channel! I also got the squeegee tip from him too as he also has an inordinate amount of content on ventilation and moisture control!
Well you may have read my mind! I have to do the same in a relative's shower. Great tips, I will be using the silicone remover for the first time. I might even do my own shower! 👍
Not usually into videos with men’s feet in them but that was good!!
Nice cat. 🤙
Good to see someone else going the way of the braces, I hammered some batchelor buttons onto my work breeches a few weeks ago and I’m never going back to a belt, so much comfier.
I installed both my shower two years ago and used a classi seal all round. This is a flexible seal on the inside of the trays so if the outer seal fail then is is double protected and cannot leak to the outside. I'm surprised an installer did not do this.
I usedthe sealant tools without any tape though.
I like to use old gift cards to spread the caulking. Works great and if the edge gets messed up there are three more. Plus you're not out anything when it's outlived it's use. You're likely to get more next birthday or Christmas......
I like the tape tip. I had to redo the bath after taking the panel off. It was not pretty but it's clear so you can't tell unless you get really close! 😁
Perfectly timed, I needed a kick up the arse to get our tray resealed. This has done just that and ordered all the bits through your links (I hope they’re affiliate links!)
Your timing couldn't be better.
We just bought a new house and although the shower is pretty fine, the silicone can also use some attention. 👍😎
It’s a bummer the seal failed, hopefully your fix will last a long time. When we remodeled our main bathroom, we put our vent fan on a timer. It seems small bit it’s honestly one of the best things we did for the remodel. We can choose 10, 20, 30, or 60 minutes and we never have to worry about a steamed up bath, or whether the spicy curry got the best of us. 😂😷
😂😂😂 thank you Trish
Like Trish, I love my vent fan timer. I put a motion sensor on the vent fan in my secondary bathroom for my airbnb guests - so they can't forget to vent the bathroom (also, a timer option may confuse them). Both of my bathrooms are windowless, so it's important to exhaust them.
Just in time as I have to redo the silicone in our master bathroom this weekend. Great job as always
Thanks Keith, practical and to the point just what I like about your content, the bathroom still looks fantastic by the way, lovin' the dramatic music for the before shot ! 😉
Ooh, I love those subway tiles, Keith!
I think I have to do the same job in our bathroom.... not looking forward to it though....
I really would look at buying a set of silicone smoothing tools that have the little legs that allows the tools to bridge the grout gaps in the tiles and stops the annoying bit where the tool catches the tile edge.
Sounds like your plumber may have cut a few corners when it come to siliconing. I always like to have 2 layers of silicone, when installing a bathtub for example I put in a bead of silicone before tiling and then when tiled I put the finish layer.
That's a beautiful cat! ❤
Thank you! 😊
Thats how he gets his most likes 😃
Hi Keith, Used that silicone many times in my decorating career. It probably is the best of the bunch. but good luck with 5 years! it will fail in that shower is in constant use...they all do. Did you get my trick with washing up liquid on finger to smooth silicone. I've never got on with those plastic tools. Trust your finger! Also this method helps to push the silicone further in the gaps rather than relying on your pressure with the gun. Notice my name has now dropped off your list of supporters. I am still a supporter ! Nice vid as always Rob Mucklow
Hi Rob this video was filmed and uploaded a month or two ago now so the end member list is probably out of date, normal service will be resumed next week! My buddy Aiden disagrees with the washing up liquid trick, says it makes the silicone fail... I have a suspicion he's making a video about it soon.... I don't know either way to be honest but I get on ok without it 👍
I've never siliconed anything but now I feel I could!
Thank you!
If it failed early, it is often due to movement between the two things being sealed. Worth checking there is no wobble in the shower screen/wall, and no bounce on the tray.
Product, surface, and joint design. Buy the most expensive silicone you can find, clean surfaces spotless with multiple rags and alcohol or even better acetone solvents, and follow industry and manufacturer best practices for joint design. That last one requires a lot of study, and is why amateur joints fail, yet the windows, doors, and showers built in factories tend to not fail. Note that modern skyscrapers have all their windows held on by silicone, not clips or screws, so silicone is indestructible when installed properly. If it fails, something was done wrong.
Great stuff. Has anyone had silicone installed by a plumber last longer than 2 years, or is that just how long it lasts?
Good stuff. I wonder if your squeegee has damaged the silicone?
Nice one Keith. By any chance can you remember where you got the shower screen wall supports from?
Great repair job Keith, Siliconing in not my strong point either, as always full of good tips and great video Take care👍
One of my least favourite jobs. My shower tray tends to start leaking around the edges every 2-3 years and I'm not sure if that is what is to be expected or if I have been using a poor quality silicone sealant perhaps. How long should it usually last?
I think it depends on so many factors... But keeping it dry and clean seems to be a big help. Unfortunately keeping a shower dry isn't easy!!!
The joint design is the most common cause of failure. There are industry best practices that are not followed by most installers. It gets complicated.
I have my bath / shower to finish this weekend with same type of Wilson waiting to go. It has been about 9 years since doing mine originally.
BTW I hate siliconing, with a passion.
Me too!
Those silicon spreading tools are great. It’s important to avoid running your finger along to avoid contaminating it
You are the handiest man I know. My wife would love for you to come stay over for a weekend.
There’s siliconing and there’s expanding foam and I hate working with both as I always get them everywhere I shouldn’t. I like the tape trick though.
Ha ha so true!
I've seen and heard that using masking tape leaves a slight raised lip for water to settle in and eventually lead to mould and failing. I don't know how else you could get a clean bead of silicone though.
You run the tool over it once again, just after the tape is removed and just as the sealant is starting to cure.
Helpful tips - thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
where did you get the braces for you pants keith i wear them myself but can on find the ones with the nasty metal clips , thanks'
By using the tape you have created a ledge for water to sit at the top of the silicone. Choose which size profile you want and then cut the nozzle slightly larger, that way you get a bead big enough to tool afterwards.
I would also recommend using meths or white spirit to degrease the area prior to silicone. CT1 Multi Solve is also great for this.
👍👍👍.Thanks Keith
Quick tip - You're using the wrong side on those silicoln shaping tools. You shoudl use the flat side, it provides a much cleaner finish.
the chamfered edge is on that tool for a reason, when dragging it along, it forces the sealant into the gap/cavity, then once you have done one pass that way, you turn it around to the flat side, then scrape up and left overs
Read a good tip to remove silicone a few years ago by a plumber on RUclips he compared silicone remover and WD40 I'd used the silicone remover will some success but the WD40 was much better if you need remore silicone in the future give a try
Interesting facts
As mentioned before, only silicone the outside of frame and glass. Also squeegee is best used other way round.
Horrible job to do anyway.
Thanks for sharing 👍
As explained in the video
Excellent work, Keith! Nicely done! 😃
Just don't use alcohol to clean there. It makes the silicon give up!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You are using the silicon finisher the wrong way round, the belved side should be in the opposite direction that you ate smoothing
cillit bang stops silicone failing
Should not seal on the inside of the screen, even the metal trim only the outside
As explained in the video .....
@RagnBoneBrown you sealed the metal trim that the glass screen is installed into, not saying you did a bad job. I see it all the time, any screen shower door, etc, should only be sealed from the outside
@djstuc A 13-year-old didn't comment his dad did 🤣
Using tape will create an lip that will trap water and make it fail quicker.
I think he addressed this in saying that he removes the tape before it's fully cured. You can go over it once more with the tool. To ensure there's no lip.
🌻
Silicone is a shame in my opinion, a real scam.I rather opt for cement grout etc is more durable.
Silicone is invincible if the joint is designed correctly, that's why all exterior windows and doors (including every skyscraper in the world) is made with silicone.
As a plumber this was a hard watch 🫣 lol