Brake Hand Up during a Fall? 0.92s to bring it down... or...!
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2022
- Will I be able to bring my brake hand down or my hand will get sucked into Belaying Device?
If a Climber Falls while Belayers brake hand is up many belaying devices won't provide enough assistance and might result into burned brake hand and potentially fatal accident.
In this experiment I used skinny 9.0 Mammut Sender Rope to maximise the change of failure!
I highly recommend to not try this! None of the catches felt comfortable!
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As a personal note, if you are sport climbing on single pitch, please don't use a tube device. Use assisted belay device, like grigri.
Last Saturday I've been involved in my first climbing accident after 11 years of climbing. We were taking all the usual safety precautions (everybody had a climbing helmet), and that saved us.
As I was climbing in a spot I am used to climb, 10m up in a route that wasn't sketchy and I had done multiple times, a couple of big rocks (the small one as big as a head) broke in my hands. The small one fell onto my belayer's head. He lost consciousness for a few seconds, and was evacuated by helicopter.
He is fine, the dude's a boar. He miraculously got away with only a small skull fracture and a few broken teeth. He'll be out of the hospital later today.
Since he lost consciousness, had he not been using a grigri, which locked the rope, I would have probably fallen to my death.
Also, always use a helmet. No matter how experienced you are and how well you think you know the rock, shit can happen. His life got saved by his helmet.
We have been extremely lucky, it could have gone really bad in a thousand different ways.
PD. In case you didn't know, all materials have limited lifespan. Check the technical information about your gear and renew it before it is too old to properly function. (i.e. for petzl gear it's usually 10 years, but it can change with other brands)
Yikes - glad you all survived!
I agree with the benefits of using an assisted braking device for belaying. I was climbing with a partner who completely let go of the brake end of the rope because they fell over. I was dangling on an overhang. The Gri Gri locked up and prevented me from decking and taking a 15 foot fall.
After this I switched from a tubular belay device to an assisted braking device. I choose the Gri Gri. I now insist that my partners use an assisted braking device when they belay me. I acknowledge there are certain scenarios where there is a disadvantages to using an assisted brake device, but I don't find myself in those situations.
Love you videos. As a climbing instructor for many years and have about 96% of my time was about safe working practice with the belaying device. I even thought belaying by numbers in slow time until they understand what they are doing and why.
Thanks for the great video. I am using Click-Up, and this made me even more aware of the potential risks with that one too. Let us all keep our braking hands low.
As there was a controversial discussion about the sliding up method of belaying, could you test this aswell? For example: Unexpected fall while breakhand is around the rope (and rope going down, like it should be done), but not gripping tightly. Would be intresting to see the effect, if it has a massive slip or what reaction it might require. Greatings
I have super amazing video coming on this topic ;)
@@HardIsEasy cant wait!
@@HardIsEasy Perfect!
Yeah, important question!
But you have to distinguish between normal tubers ann auto tube devices!
this is why I love grigri, nothing is 100% safe but it makes me feel safer 😅
I have personally experienced a climber fall while my brake hand was up. It actually happened to be my first time belaying outside. Luckily I was already bring my hand down and was quick enough. But it did burn my hand alittle and my heart skipped a beat. The best part about is my partner thanked me for a good catch lol.
Nice. Thanks for answering these questions. I like the short format for these questions which have short answers pretty much.
Amazing that it's working :) I'm gonna launch long format videos that will point to short format, to avoid bloating up those big once too much :)
Really appreciate your dedication and commitment to the climbing community. You have gained a patreon.
Thanks for all the great content. Can't wait for more
Thanks for support ☺️
Thank you for your experiments. You‘re addressing important questions with a lot of practical background!
I am always wearing gloves while belaying. The idea is to avoid the risk of letting go of the rope due to burn caused by friction or because my hand gets sucked into the belay device.
We‘re also trying to communicate the risk of a possible fall similar to standardized commands (like „off belay“). We feel that as a climber you often have a bad feeling before/when you‘re falling and any extra warning can help you to be a cheetah. Of course, that is not possible for falls that the climber does not see coming.
I think the standard is "watch me" when you're about to do a high-risk move
I first learned lead belaying on an atc. A couple things I remember from back then (maybe 8 or 10 years ago though, so take it with a grain of salt):
- No matter what device you're using, you can always step away from the wall to take out slack quickly (assuming it's safe to, particularly if you're outside). I would usually do this if they're frantically yelling "take!" and are at risk of falling, but less often in the middle of a fall (b/c harder catch), unless there was a risk of a ground fall and there was too much slack out to take out at once--maybe after failing to clip?
- I don't remember ever pulling up on the rope to take slack, I'd usually pull sideways towards my break position (I'd ideally break with my right hand at right hip). Since there's no tension on the rope, it is easy to pull through, especially if your other hand is feeding the climber's end of the rope into the device. I've found this is harder to do on devices with assisted breaking, though.
Love your videos! Thanks for doing these experiments, they really help me analyze my own techniques and hopefully improve them.
Good video as always. Lots to think about.
I was waiting exactly for this video. I am going to send this to all my friends 😀
Always a great vid. Thank you.
Buenos vídeos! Sin duda uno de los mejores canales de escalada y testeo de material, millones de gracias por compartir toda esta información!
Great video! Thanks for testing this.
Great transition with the Click Up! 🤘🏼
Good video. Thanks for always making yourself available as a test subject. I think what is an important point to mention is that with autotubers the angle for pulling in the rope may be different. I believe that in tests the Click Up performs poorly compared to other autotubers. That is why it is more likely that the rope slips when pulling in the rope and falling at the same time.
Keep up the great work
Good work!
Nice one. Thank you!
I don't climb but came across your videos looking for harness to safely cut some trees on my property. I enjoyed watching your videos so much that I subscribed your channel and regularly watch your videos now and really enjoy them. Great job👍
Maybe it's time to start climbing :)
Thank you!
Nice. Scary shit, good content! What I frequently see in the gym is people shifting hands while the hands are still above the belaye device, i.e. while the belay device is still open. Maybe you could make a video on this?
Thanks, I'll include your point into my video about proper use of belaying devices.
@@HardIsEasy Could you maybe include or make a separate video on the importance of the belayers awareness of the route topography? i.e When to soft catch and when to keep it tight because of a ledge or a rock formation sticking out or a sloped sidewall(aka sloped ledge) that you climb out over.
Being aware of the position and potential fall consequence for the climber is very important. Yes, a hard catch can cause injury but a ledge fall can cause a LOT worse :P
This is a very important topic. This illustrates the potential for the hand to get pulled into the belay device and lead to a pinch of the brake hand. The concern is that this could lead to an involuntary response to release the brake end of the rope.
I never keep my hand above the belay device for any extended period of time. When I reach the high point of taking in slack, I immediately return to pull down. If someone falls it is easier to catch them.
Just some feedback on how you are holding the brake end of the rope. Most of the video you have wrapped the thumb around the rope. There were some situations when this thumb wasn't wrapped around the brake end of the rope.
Cheers,
I don't climb and want to start,your videos are very good for me
Do you have any problems with that Mammut Tri Lock Carabiner? I got mine a while ago and the small blue thing to prevent the carabiner to turn sideways is super hard to move and sometimes (better say quite often) it gets stuck in the opened position and I only ever used it indoors and there is no obvious dirt in between the moving parts.
super interesting Video. I wasn't really surprised about the results. Since you already work with Mammut they have a thing called "smarter" that you can clip on the assisted breaking device Smart 2.0 It helps to redirect the break rope in a forward direction, so even if you handle the rope incorrectly the risk of the device failing (like the click up did) should be prevented
Years ago i was introducing a friend to the sport and got drop to the ground when getting lowered.
Luckily there was a small tree below me and it cushion my fall.
What happened was that i had my hand in the other side of the rope on the start (exactly to make sure she wasn't gonna drop me) but after a few meters i felt it was ok and let go.
The difference on the force pulling the rope was enough that she couldn't grip it anymore (because her hand was too high and i didn't notice it) the rope burner her hand and she let go...
She was using atc ?
Great Video (as always), great demonstration.
Now i can not only tell in my belay-workshops that there is a problem, but also show in a video (unfortunatly i am forbidden to do live demonstrations with test-subjects ;)).
I am looking forward to the belay-device videos.
Amazing, that's my point, often ppl criticise me for doing these sketchy experiments, but I think Showing > Telling
@@HardIsEasy It does not look that bad, looks like you have the rope tied off on a bite and clipped in to your belay loop. So that if you cant catch it your climber at least wont hit the deck.
@@timhoffmann9160 Sure, I'm not stupid to put anyone at any serious risk :) This time it's just my hand
@@HardIsEasy I think in the future, it's worth explaining your safety backup in the videos.
Still great stuff; thanks for your work!
@@HardIsEasy As Tim said, just out of pure curiosity I would have loved to have heard an explanation of the backup you had! Loved the video!
I was first taught to belay the old sticht plate style belay method (both hands up). The guy teaching me got rather ticked that I couldn't get my brake hand down fast enough. PBUS wasn't a thing yet, unfortunately.
You're right. For the love of doG, don't belay the ancient way!
Another amazing video. Your work for the climbing community is exceptional.
One comment: The reaction time is not realistic if you are belaying properly. You are looking straight ahead so only feeling the fall when the rope tensions. I know you are doing this for demo purposes, but proper belaying starts with watching your climber. If you are watching the climber, you will see them falling before feeling them falling, massively increasing the reaction time available. This is extra important when giving or taking slack and your hand is above the device. Always watch your climber, especially when giving/taking slack.
It is impossible to watch your climber for a complete 100% percent of the time, so you should belay the safest way possible, not rope up. If your neck starts to hurt and you relax it for a second; if a bee lands on your face; if a hiker is trying to get past you, or asks your something; if you have to sneeze; many options. But the most realistic scenario is that you don't have the focus if you've been climbing the whole day, it's hot, you have to pee and your climber is already projecting for 30 minutes.
What if you can't even see the climber at all?
I agree that the reaction time is not realistic, because it might be even longer if you don't look, and you are not 'on edge' or scared like in the video.
There are many situations in which you cannot see your climber
I don't see the climber very offen.
Great video. So what IS the best assisted braking device, in you opinion?
I always make sure my climber is safe before I take some rope. But sometimes he's not safe and asks me to take ! So, thank you I'll have these informations in mind from now on :)
Could someone please use this demonstration in belaying classes?
I see this all the time at the crag or the gym(even I do this sometimes despite knowing better), but don't even try to ask the people to do it right.
No one ever believes me probably until they get their hand stuck in the ATC.
Thanks for the Video. Great Job!
But… but.. but…. great video as always!!
Спасибо, весьма полезное видео, очень актуальная тема.
Hey, i saw that when you are taking, your belaying hand also goes inside of the carabiner. 3:37
Why is that? Is that some sort of comfort thing, or actually beneficial? Does it pose any safety risk, since you are not holding the belaying rope with a completely closed hand, rather with your palm.. ?
Much love from Munich
Interesting and video. Keep making videos, they are always interesting. Hope youtube can support you more financially in the future.
On TR belay I always prefer short and frequent takes rather than long ones, because it's much easier to shift my left hand under the right for sliding up when the take is short, plus my right hand (break hand) spends less time above the belay device this way.
On lead belay it's mostly managing the slack so the potential fall is minimum and pay attention to the climber to anticipate the fall. I don't like to take out slack during a fall, would rather just go straight to break position so there's no risk of rope slipping through.
I only use this style of bellay device one workaround for this issue is to make a prusik and tie it to your leg loop of your harness I personally do this only on long multi pitches.
Not entirely shure what you are doing, but prusik on a leg has a risk that if you leg goes up it won't help you ;)
@@HardIsEasy i learned that from an old Mountain Guide, i havent had the Situation that the leg Went up .. also i havent had to chatch a hard Fall with this configuration
@@antrumkfpsalatschleuder8768 sounds like a "spiderman" rappel type set up, i think extending the belay device by putting it on a sling and then attaching the prusik closer to the belay loop is preferred when possible
Really enjoy your videos, I think they're very informative. Are you going to remake the belay master class episode 6?
Next video is gonna be ep6 :D
@@HardIsEasy Excellent. Looking forward to it!
Where did you film this episode?
Спасибо! Хотелось бы посмотреть на правильную технику перехвата с этим устройством.
Mabey it’s a idea to make a video about
build a sport climbing anchor. There are always a lot of discussion about this topic. Thanks
I would love to see this with something like a BD Pilot!
Спасибо
When will you make a video on cleaning the route if you haven't done so already? You just mentioned it on your Belaying Masterclass that you will talk about it later but I can't find it
Thank you papi
What about device like Mammut smart 2 ? Are they the safest ? I mean, if you release the rope, they lock any way no ? (click up device are not lick mammut smart 2 wich is safer right ?)
Mammut smart has an addon called Smarter, it prevents from the issue talked about in this video. CT ClipUp released a new version ClickUP+ but it's not as great in my opinion.
Yo this makes me anxious. I landed on the floor because of this (luckily just bruised my shoulder) and I really hope you either used a dummy or the testsubject was secured in some other way.
hmm... Question: What about other hand? I mean, when I take out the slac i always have my other hand tightly on the rope on the other side of the device... it should in principle give you additional time to react, shouldn't it?
You won't be able to hold with the other hand anything, but you are right that it gives you a sensory warning to bring your right hand down asap.
the sensory advantage of the non-braking hand is better if it’s not gripping tightly, only very slight tension, almost pulling down a tiny bit. That allows you to “feel” what the climber’s doing even if you can’t see them and might give a very short time advantage.
Can I ask if there is a maximum difference between the weight of the climber and the weight of the belayer in kg? For example, can a 50kg belayer hold a fall of an 80kg climber? Belayers like grigri would help reduce this weight difference if not during a fall, during the descent ? Thank you so much for your videos, I’m a beginner and you are incredibly helpful
Edelrid ohm is designed exactly for that reason, it brakes the rope and allows a light belayer to hold a heavier climber
Is this a problem when trying to take slack quickly (to prevent a ground fall) with a GriGri?
with grigri the position of your brake hand is less important, as it’s supposed to lock even when the hand is above the device. still good to keep it down though ;)
Perhaps it's nitpicking, but the way you grab the brake rope together with the carabiner several times (for example at 0:45) is perhaps not the best example. I always teach my students to grab the brake rope with (at least) three fingers and always wrab the thumb around the rope as well (in opposing direction). If I see it correctly I think you're 'just' holding on to the brake rope with four fingers that wrap around the rope in the same direction. Adding the thumb greatly improves your capability of holding the rope and not letting it slide, because it wraps around the brake rope in the other direction. Great video nonetheless, thank you!
Love your videos, but I have never rope climbed outside, and I’d love to make the transition! Could you make a guide for going from the gym to the great outdoors?
I cannot recommend enough to go climbing outdoors! However, it is probably best that you don't learn how to climb outdoors through a video, and instead have someone more experienced to do an outdoors trip with. Videos about climbing outdoors can certainly help supplement your learning, but there are too many variables and locations outdoors to be covered in video and you'll have a much easier time learning outdoor safety by climbing outdoors with someone who understands it well. Good luck, I hope you get the chance to do some outdoor climbing!
@@monky123344 Thanks for the feedback Brandon! I am lucky enough to have several friends who are instructors, but I’ve still learned lots from Bens videos, so I thought it would be great nonetheless. Perhaps just tips and tricks instead of a comprehensive guide would be the way to go? For example things that are often overlooked or forgotten.
Some instructors don’t emphasize the importance of the right grip when using grigri for example, so maybe there are similar things when it comes to going outside?
Pulling in slack on a fall or immediately after a clip is one of those behaviors I wish people would ditch. This and “handing” the rope upwards rather than coming back to the device and the exaggerated steps forward to feed slack. If the amount of slack wasn’t safe for the fall then why feed this in the first place?
I am obviously not talking ground or ledge fall potential where the belayer is assessing how to keep the climber safe. This is not the vast majority of falls. This is gym and eighth bolt falls and similar.
You mention the problem with the clickup, what if any other assisted devices would be safer/better in that situation? Thanks.
I'm literally working on a video about most popular assisted devices, should publish it relatively soon
@@HardIsEasy awesome. Subbed. Great videos. Thanks.
Hey man, why the videos no longer have subtitles for Portuguese-Br? :(
Is there a such thing or a way to anchor the Belayer?
I can add to the conversation but I will wait for that answer
You could anchor the belayer. But it is much safer to not anchor them because the belayer being lifted up in the air will dampen the fall further.
Sometimes, if the belayer is very light-weight, and the climber very heavy, the belayer will in fact be pully up very high. The belayer can hit the first anchor of the rope, sometimes even collide with the climber mid way.
If you are light weight you could, for example, clip your harness to your bag(which is sitting on the ground). That'll add some weight, make you not lift up as much. But you wouldn't want to anchor yourself firmly.
The other way around, if you are very heavy and belaying a light weight climber, the falls with something like a grigri will be very rough.
I think everyone should at least try belaying with gloves. It is weird in the beginning but once your use to its perfect!! With gloves its possible to give a dinamic catch without flying witch is sometimes unfortunate(and impossible if you are belaying from an anchor).
i love belaying with gloves. saves the skin for sending harder :)
This is exactly why I use clickup+ (opposed to regular clickup), its the only device besides REVO that breaks even if your brake hand is up. And for frequent ATC users, its not entirely stupid to use a glove for the brake hand, saved my skin one or two times already.
How is clickup+ for you? I find it one of the worst devices for lead belaying :D
Actually GriGri or Mammut Smart with smarter don't have this issue as well, so it's not only Revo and clickup+
@@HardIsEasy
To the clickup+ ... it was a learning curve, loooots of locking up on me. The trick lies within uncoiling the rope and technique - CT actually have this on their yt channel, they call it "fast slack technique" or something like that, where you bring your hand to the level of the device and let go of the grip while giving slack. Once I mastered it its as easy as an ATC and I actually like that it locks up superfast when the rope is weighted. I like it more than grigri which is more prone to human failiure - heard too mamy stories just from my local gyms.
Practice tip for the clickup + (how I taught myself and my friends to use it): Just give as much slack as fast as possible at home. I did like 500 meters of rope and since then it rarely locks up even with my 10mm rope.
Just curious but do you need special climbing gloves or just any glove will do?
I typically use a Black Diamond ATC Pilot (assisted breaking device)
@@motherlove8366 Personally I use tactical gloves, they offer the best durability/dextirity ratio. Pig Gloves or mechanix high-dex are both fine choice. I also use them for via ferratas. But honestly I think anything will do, just make sure you have okay dexterity so you feel the rope.
@@alexbarcovsky4319 Thanks for the answer
After learning so much about belaying devices I will never let someone belay me with a tube xd
Others may have mentioned but in case no one has - I’ve noticed that folks using slip-slap-slide (instead of PBUS, like you) often default to holding the brake strand up high (instead of in braking position), just as their default resting position. Compounding, they often hold the brake strand pretty close to the device, giving even less time to react. Too, regarding what you discuss around 4:40, slip-slap-slide doesn’t really work well with pulling slack outward/away from your body, you kind of have to pull upward in alignment with the climber’s side of the rope.
I don’t know how damning any of this is, but it is of particular note since they’re all things you call out as bad belay technique here. I’ve also always wondered if the brake hand in slip-slap-slide is less effective? It seems like you’d get less control over the brake strand, but I have no data to back that up.
Mentioning the ClickUp, could you do a video on the ClickUp+? I find it locks any time taking/giving slack and figure I'm probably doing something wrong.
I had the same problem with ClickUp+ , not a fan of this "improved" design to be honest.
Hi nice video! Could you explain what is the purpose of the carabineer and knot attached to your harness? The reason I'm asking is because one time i was leading and felt before clipping. My belayer was like 20kg lighter than me and this resulted in a 3/4 bolts huge fall with my belayer banging against the wall all the way to the first QuickDraw... And she was using a tube type device... So she could easily let the break hand off... Nothing happened but I'm wondering if maybe you are anchored to the ground... Thanks! Love all you videos!
First time i was belaying outside of the gym, the same happened to me, with a tube device. I had my little finger smacked against the rock as i was trying to protect my face, and it broke. My brake hand didnt come off but it was scary because me and my partner met on the way of the fall.
I assume it is so if he does hurt his hand in this demonstration and doesn't hold the break rope any longer, the climber won't fall all the way down. You can see briefly at 2:12 that the rope has like 2m of slack behind the knot and then goes into the belay device.
It's just a backup in case I fail to catch the fall. you would not use this in normal belay scenarios ;)
Anchoring the belayer can easily be done and is done.. I cannot encourage or discourage… I would be excited to hear what everyone thinks..
Love the content! I'm curious, strangely I sometimes see people using a tube style device in multipitch routes without a dummy runner. As in the case of falling before the first bold the hand would need to go up instead of down, I'd love to see how long it takes to act "against the instinct" and if it is catchable at all.
Just always use a dummy runner! :)
@@haveawonderfulday279 that's no discussion, I always use them, still it would be interesting to know. Just like in the other videos on things most of us would never do, still it would be interesting to know what would happen, just curiosity :)
Great stuff as always. You kept mentioning in the video: "I know that some of you will comment...", and I somehow expected you to say "... that I'm doing this testing with an actual climber, with the potential of groundfall in case my break hand is messed-up by the impact to the ATC..." :)) Your climber did have a secondary rope or something, right? :))
no ground fall potential, there is a backup attached to me... the only risk is my own hands ;)
You can see he has tied the rope to his harness on a bit further down. You could answer your own question with some perception ^^ But good that you pick it up anyway!
@@SonnyKnutson Oh, I wondered what that was for, I thought it was a belayer tie-in to the ground, to keep him from flying away too high. Thanks!
Ep. 6 of Belay masterclass is still missing since you took it down for revision, when will it be back?
It's under reconstruction, but it's next vid on my todo list so, soonish :)
Best belay you ever will have is… me because of love.
Stay anchored my friends
love this videos, they show people what they need to see; i don't know you guys, but i'm kind of a nazi when it comes to belaying and i get crazy when i see bad belaying especially at the crag. Like the day i saw this couple where she was belaying with a GriGri and wasn't even keeping her hands on the device/the rope, she was literally holding nothing in her hands and just staring at the guy giving slack some time...
yea
Click up + bring an steel plate to avoid the V problem.
The problem with the test was that you know it was coming. In the real world you're going to spend a lot of time not expecting a fall then suddenly it happens out of nowhere. When you're expecting an event your reaction time is typically 0.2-0.3 seconds. When you aren't anticipating an event it will usually be 1-2 seconds at best. In an event like this that's a fall of between 5 and 20 meters before you even start to respond, though the resistance in the rope will likely reduce that by some amount.
On the other hand taking in the slack as fast as possible wouldn't have that reaction time as you're already doing the motion. So it's "only" however long it takes to take up the slack at the rate planned. Probably still not enough time, and you're not getting cheetah reaction regardless, but a far better chance of catching the fall with your hand in the equipment rather than catching nothing at all. I'm not personally a climber, but if I were I wouldn't want to rely on someone's reaction times as the physics and biology simply don't equate to a safe time here.
Firstly, i always, always belay from a ground anchor’
Becorz
i asked me this question because i was used to take out the slack with heavier climbers and now i found someone the same weigth i dont need it any more
Yea... use Assisted belay device that doesn't have these risks and you are good. GriGri, Mammut Smart with smarter addon, Revo,
@@HardIsEasy mostly i use grigri, sometimes reverso but yeah its better to use with same weight climbers
I hope you had some kind of backup in these tests...
Yeap, you can see the rope is clipped to the belay loop with extra carabiner, so if my hand fails to stop the fall that's a hard back up.
@@HardIsEasy Oh I see it now
As a professional non professional gamer i didnt see the problem to pull your hand don in under 0.92s
I just send you five dollar, thanks a lot, these videos are so good! THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO. I am gonna tell all my friends. God bless you😙😍
Wow, thank you!
Great video although only the first try really showed a hand up situation finally. Sport climbing with tube style belay devices is dangerous I‘d say.
i do lots of sport climbing on an ATC and wonder if the belay style of matching hands at the bottom is safer/less safe than the "shoveling" style of pulling the climbers side and then just sliding your brake hand up the rope
I hope you have someone giving you a firemans belay that's just out of frame
take another look at his harness
@@dannyCOTW ahh good eye
@Hard is Easy: thumb down. No really. @4:31 put the thumb down. We want to have a "tunnel" between thumb and the other fingers at all times with the break hand. Right?
Otherwise: Very good practical demonstration :) *thumbs up
An issue i see with this is he’s not watching the climber, he’s trying to catch a blind fall. Good belayer never takes the eye of the climber (so you never get caught out with your b hand up)
Hey climbers, I have a question... Can I always climb in Arco, for example, depending on the weather? Or is it too hot for a climbing trip in July or August?
I had a guy do this to me once, freaking dropped me 6-7 metres off the ground
Hey! I really like your videos, I want to share. I am a climbing instructor and have experience with dynamic belays on "Reverso" devices. It all depends on:
1. belay device
2. rope diameter
3.weight leader
4. belayer's weight
5. jerk factor
Most often, it is enough to raise your hand to the level of the device, but at the same time have a margin of rope between your hand and the device at least 60 centimeters. The glove makes it possible to pickle the rope more than without it, if you do not grip hard, but gently squeeze the hand.
You should be watching your climber while belaying not the rope. You'll see your climber falling (not be surprised by the sudden tension in the system) giving you time to react accordingly.
I agree but there are instances when u cannot see your climber...so great demonstration in my opinion.
@@justinzornes3170 I agree. There are many times you cannot see the climber. Learning to belay by feeling is also important. It will also help with learning how to soft catch better.
Being able to see your climber or knowing the route they are about to climb is also important. There are plenty cases where there are ledges or things sticking out where you wouldn't want a long soft catch. So it's important as a belayer to be aware of this.
2:06 mongoose. Always mongoose. Watch documentaries of them fighting snakes, you'll always associate them with being fast, after that.
Ok next time it's Mangooses turn :D
Hi, I wolud love to know much kn stress does hte Beal Dynaloop reduce in the anchor compared with an static system such as a dineema quad. I mean... Lets take the firts example of this video (ruclips.net/video/fZIj5HAV8xA/видео.html) and say with a dineema the anchor is 3.21 KN the belayer 1.08 KN and the climber 1.92 KN. Are the forces recuded by a lot or is it like nothing? Congrats for your amazing videos!
Can you please do a video about climbing helmets too? 💐🌈🔥
Yep, it's coming
@@HardIsEasy Thank you appreciate all you hard work and commitment. WE LOVE YOU
@@HardIsEasy Perfect. And I think along with the Helmed video. It fits very well to show how not to place your feet over the rope where there is a risk of catching the leg behind it. Always lift the rope up on top of your foot if the rope is diagonal. I often see climbers placing their foot where it would get caught in a fall. And many times they do not have a helmet. Which would mean an up-side-down flip with the head into the wall :S
Slip slap slide belayers are so triggered by this video 😂
Really shocking. Let's you think. So is a tube useless for belaying for everyone not being a cheetah?
I'm not a fan of Tube Style devices personally, but if you follow proper technique it's not useless and it def has it's place ;)
I really appreciate that you answer personally. In all honesty this makes me really insecure now. I am experienced for years in belaying with a tube both toprope and lead. However right now this is decently overwhelming.
@@christiangehl3134 Well if you are experienced with Tube, you know what you are doing ;) But my next vid will go a bit deeper into this topic
Indeed, so why panicing. 🙂 Looking forward to it.
@@christiangehl3134 I can tell you why I dislike being belayed with a tube. Even if I trust my belayer. If you take a fall where the belayer is pulled out of balance and is about to slam sideways into the wall (aka they cannot catch the slam with their feet). It's very very easy to instinctively let go of the belay end of the rope before you can even think about what the fuck you are doing to catch yourself.
I have accidentally done this once but with a Grigri. So it was all good. But with a tube it would have been terrible ^^
To add. just out of curiousity. Is there any specific reason why you don't like assisted breaking devices? There are many that works well and are easy to operate :) Especially with the right type of rope and coating on the rope.
First
Essa
Great video, it's "brake" by the way, not "break"!
thanks, fixed :D
And ..... there is still some organization promote SSS belay.
Ghm... I would be surprised... this is kinda old technique no?
@@HardIsEasy For sure you are surprised. As for me, I had pain in the ass passing their test for certification.
One way of fixing this, is not using these idiotic murder devices when you don't have to, just use a Grigri or similar device.
Belayer telling climber that “This is really scary!”…Climber/Guinea pig walks off the set.
Be a cheater ! :))
If you're wanting to take slack out during a fall, you're probably belaying with too much slack... Also, if you're using PBUS, your hand wont ever be up there for more than a second. People just need better belaying technique.
This guy did a good job, but Alex Honnold could probably put on a better video