I know this is an older video, but for people that ask about the ride. Couple of reasons it’s rides really firm is the shocks you choose. 90010/60080 are “standard” valved shocks. 90016/60086 are “soft” valved shocks. And there’s a third version that’s valved “firm”. On top of that the front 885 coil is meant to carry some weight. And with no weight on it, you gain some extra lift but the coils are too stiff.
Awesome video! I installed my Rough country vertex coilovers up front last night, planning to do the rear springs & shocks tonight! Looks simple enough!
The OME life kit is very good. I matched mine with Camburg UCA’s and my Runner looks and handles like a dream. For about $2,000 all in, you won’t find a better kit.
Which front and rear setup did you go with? I’ve got a slimline and winch at about 170 lbs to be installed and a roof rack, custom rear bumper and spire tire carrier I plan on installing in the future. Trying to figure out what the best springs would be
@@brendanmerriott1493 I don’t remember the part numbers for the springs, got them from Toytec… I don’t have any of the of the add-one you mentioned but I’m pretty sure their website breaks down the part numbers by weight in the drop down menus when you select options with the kit before adding it to your cart. Maybe try that and see what is recommended.
Good job man. That is not an easy job without a hoist.... One question. If I want to just replace the X-Reas with regular shocks without lifting.. same exact shocks and process except removing the springs? or do you suggest other shocks?
You can use your stock springs and put them into a set of bilstein 5100. You can not use the xreas shocks without the xreas attached. The Bilsteins will provide a nice smooth ride. Exact same process, yes
How much are those rear coils supposed to hold? i know there supposed to hold more weight , like 300 more or 500 more pounds amazon dont say anything about how much weight they are good for ?. Im needing a minimum of loading 600 more pounds in the truck,,,,
Great video, love that you provided torque values for all the components in the description. I am prepping to install a Dobinson’s lift with the JBA UCA’s on my ‘17 Limited. What size Open Country AT’s do you have on the factory 20’s?
It is definitely stiffer than stock setup but not by much. Nose dive while braking is pretty much almost gone. I can definitely feel the road and smaller bumps more but it sucks up big bumps much much better. I have yet to take it off road as I just installed it last week. I may do a review video on the suspension soon though. I just ordered some new 17s and I think this will soften things up in town compared to the 20s and low pros it currently has. Hope this helps
I have a 2016 Tacoma . Off road shop gave me 4 Nitrocharger and said they can only give me a 2,, lift in the front??? My leveling kit was 2.5 ,, now my 285,s rub when backing up ,parallel parking and when I do a sharp turn . I asked for a 3,, lift in the front but they gave me only 2,, . Is a 3,, impossible with the Nitrocharger . What am I missing .
I have a question about the abs lines on the front that attach to the spindle. After the lift, the line seemed to tight to try to reinstall where they originally sat. I ended up running a zip tie through the hole in the spindle and the mounting bracket attached to the line. Is this ok, or is there a better way. Thank you for helping me through your videos.
Awesome video. I have a 2019 Limited and a 2021 TRD ORP. I did an Bilstein 5100 upgrade to the TRD ORP which really helped with body roll and nose diving. I have been thinking about removing the Xreas system on my limited and going with a pre-built Bilstein front 6112/spring kit & 5100 rears. I find that my Limited really wanders on the highway compared to my TRD ORP. Did your stock limited wander on the highway? How is your ride quality with the upgrade?
I haven't noticed any improvement on the highway but the ride is noticeably stiffer in town. I've noticed less nosedive upon hard braking and less sway when turning corners. I can feel smaller bumps more but it does suck up large bumps much much better.
Wow… I really enjoy your videos. I’m Rick…My wife’s 2014 4Runner limited.This my wife account and I’m reaching out to you for advise and a little help. I originally put in a leveling kit on it . 3 inch spacer on top of the front and 2 inch rubber hat spacer on back springs. I have noticed that the back sags with two kids in the back seat and a little bit of weight in the back. I believe that the original suspension is starting to go bad. I hear clunking sounds when hitting bumps from the front. I would love to pick your brain after seeing your suspension swap. How can I get in touch with you? Thanks in advance Rick
Great video! Would like to ask question, installed on 2018 4Runner trd off-road same kit and driving feels very unstable on rough or gravel road. Steering fill very loose and it floats and feels like driving on ice. Got wheel alignment done and checked suspension, all good… upper control arms stock… should I change UCA, is it going to fix issue? Or possibly install spacers on KDSS? Thanks
Man this video is perfect! I have a 2018 limited stock and have been researching wheels/tires/lift etc. You have great taste and I am looking to do a very similar setup at least the big 3...I would like to do the suspension myself but dont have an air wrench/big battery impact. They have a cheap air wrench at harbor freight but I have a little 6gal ridgid air compressor...think thats enough to do the job for these big bolts? Also, I've seen some youtube vids with suspension tightening - is it ok to torque while vehicle is off ground? Ive seen where they would lower it before torquing the bolts for the bushings to squeak? idk but would love to get your input! Thanks
Great video. Looks like your center brake hoses were stretched very tight while the axle was lowered. I did the exact same thing without realizing until after. A year later, have you had any brake problems? Thanks
Did you have any warning lights pop up on your dash after the install? I just installed the Bilstein 5100 on my 2020 Limited and had 4 different warnings pop up right after the install.
@@T4Rgarage copy thank you, only other thing my pre collision and cruise control came up as well so idk if ill have to take it to the dealership to get the camera recalibrated and the tss sensor
Great video, followed every step as I put my Ironman FCP 3/2 lift in this weekend. I definitely pulled an ABS wire when the driver’s side UCA popped up (darn clip caught the arm even though I took it off), so that light is on and something I need to address. My center diff light is blinking, and my traction control light is on. Did you have this issue after you lifted yours? I did a diff drop - any chance this is throwing that light?
If you damaged the ABS sensor wire you could get the ABS,Vcs and Trac lights come on. As for the diff, I never did the diff drop on mine. Could you have pulled another wire on the diff? Maybe place your vehicle in neutral and try switching between 4hi and 2wd or H4F (depending on your model). Once you fix the broken ABS wire (lots of info online) try resetting your computer and doing a zero points calibration.
Got around to fixing (almost) everything, so here's a rundown... The pulled ABS wire also tripped the Center Diff Light (blinking) and the Traction Control Light (solid). My manual did not address this scenario, so I thought I may have damaged the diff when I was trying to get the rear coils in or something. According to the manual, a blinking Center Diff light means it's trying to engage (but this was not the case). Turns out a new $70 ABS wire and $53 of labor to install it fixed everything. As far as the knocking, I am still diagnosing and treating this. I tightened the nut on the long UCA bolt, as it had already come loose, and this got rid of one of the "metal on metal" sounds I was hearing. Do you recommend Loctite or just torqueing these bolts to spec? I have seen some threads where guys have recommended Loctite, but I am honestly not crazy about that solution. Another theory on the knocking/binding sounds...I think my sway bar may be bumping up against the body of the shock at low speeds when in reverse, turning, and braking. Kind of hard to figure this one out, but everything is nestled in there pretty close, even with the Ironman sway bar relocation mounts installed. Have you ever seen this? It could also be my skid plate bumping around. With the diff drop installed, the stock 12mm bolts were too short to fully secure the skid plate. Going to try to find some longer ones this weekend. Otherwise, very impressed with the ride quality of the Ironman FCP. Extremely stable on the road and it takes routine bumps/potholes better than the stock XREAS (obviously). Minor rubbing with 275/60/20 BFGs on stock 20s, but that should be an easy remedy. Thanks again for the great walkthrough videos!
@@andrewfowler6696 From what I’ve read researched most installs recommend to just torque to UCA bolts to spec. A bit of blue loctite wouldn’t hurt tho esp if they are coming loose for some reason. Do you see any areas of wear or impact on your shock or sway bar? A lot of times the sway bars or their end links are to blame. Grab everything firmly (sway bars, end links, control arms, shock, tie rods) and pull/shake to check for play. Retorque all nuts and bolts to spec to insure nothing else has backed off. You could always try giving Ironman a call as well
I do realize this is an older vehicle and and older video, but you really need to undercoat your vehicle with Fluid Film and reapply it every fall. It will help a lot to stop the rust and corrosion.
Still rocking the same setup. I have no complains, no leaks or issues since install. I might have gone with Bilstein 5100 with the exact same old man emu coils. The old man emu nitro charger shocks might be a bit firm in comparison to the Bilstein. I have yet to compare the two myself tho. Also the nitro charger shocks have the worse paint job, like base coat applied to polished steel. It flakes off easily and rusts. Other than that it’s been great tho
After installing a spacer suspension lift, i noticed a knocking sound coming from the driver front side, on my ‘21 sr5, could this be from pre-loading the suspension? It’s noticeable from hitting speed bumps, or driving down an angle (my drive way is a bit steep) if i get an actual suspension lift (like this one) would that noise go away?
It could be your stock shocks bottoming or topping out depending on the type of spacer lift you added. If you install a proper suspension lift your new shocks will have more travel than the stock ones. I had a similar issue on my last (spacer) lifted vehicle. I would go over a speed bumps and my suspension would clunk really bad unless I went slowly or sideways. It was happening on the extension rather than the compression of the suspension. Before switching to another system though make sure everything is tight under there, especially the sway bar end links. A lot of times it will be as simple as a loose bolt or nut, usually on the sway bar.
Any chance you could measure to the top of your roof rack after your new wheels and tires? I have a 3” lift on the way and I’m worried about making it in/out of my garage.
Eibach pro truck lift does a nice job of a levelled look with a lift. If you don’t want as much lift and just levelled you could get a set of Bilstein 5100s and set the spring perch to lift the front 0.75”. You can reuse your factory coils with the new front and rear Bilstein shocks
I did rub on the front fender liner but only when in full lock (wheels fully turned) while backing up. I was able to easily remedy this by heating up the finder liner with a heat gun and pushed/moulded that spot forward with a rubber mallet. Took about 15 min for each side.
The drop kit isn’t necessary but it can prolong the life of the cvs. It’s a trade off because the drop kit will take away some of the ground clearance that you gained from the lift. It can also make is difficult to fit skid plates requiring different hardware/spacers
It will help you get your alignment into spec so your vehicle tracks nicely at highway speeds and will also help you fit larger tires without grinding and welding your body mount.
I know this is an older video, but for people that ask about the ride. Couple of reasons it’s rides really firm is the shocks you choose. 90010/60080 are “standard” valved shocks. 90016/60086 are “soft” valved shocks. And there’s a third version that’s valved “firm”. On top of that the front 885 coil is meant to carry some weight. And with no weight on it, you gain some extra lift but the coils are too stiff.
Awesome video! I installed my Rough country vertex coilovers up front last night, planning to do the rear springs & shocks tonight! Looks simple enough!
The rear is much easier to the front 👍 Cheers!
@@T4Rgarage thankfully, because I had one helluva time doing the fronts haha
This is really great content. Thank you!
The OME life kit is very good. I matched mine with Camburg UCA’s and my Runner looks and handles like a dream. For about $2,000 all in, you won’t find a better kit.
Which front and rear setup did you go with? I’ve got a slimline and winch at about 170 lbs to be installed and a roof rack, custom rear bumper and spire tire carrier I plan on installing in the future. Trying to figure out what the best springs would be
@@brendanmerriott1493 I don’t remember the part numbers for the springs, got them from Toytec… I don’t have any of the of the add-one you mentioned but I’m pretty sure their website breaks down the part numbers by weight in the drop down menus when you select options with the kit before adding it to your cart. Maybe try that and see what is recommended.
Installing some 6112's on my 5th Gen tomorrow. Thanks for the video!
Very helpful video thanks for the help!
Good job man. That is not an easy job without a hoist.... One question. If I want to just replace the X-Reas with regular shocks without lifting.. same exact shocks and process except removing the springs? or do you suggest other shocks?
You can use your stock springs and put them into a set of bilstein 5100. You can not use the xreas shocks without the xreas attached. The Bilsteins will provide a nice smooth ride. Exact same process, yes
How much are those rear coils supposed to hold? i know there supposed to hold more weight , like 300 more or 500 more pounds amazon dont say anything about how much weight they are good for ?. Im needing a minimum of loading 600 more pounds in the truck,,,,
Great video, love that you provided torque values for all the components in the description. I am prepping to install a Dobinson’s lift with the JBA UCA’s on my ‘17 Limited. What size Open Country AT’s do you have on the factory 20’s?
Thank you! I have the 275/55/20s
Hey man, awesome video. How do you like the ride of this kit?
It is definitely stiffer than stock setup but not by much. Nose dive while braking is pretty much almost gone. I can definitely feel the road and smaller bumps more but it sucks up big bumps much much better. I have yet to take it off road as I just installed it last week. I may do a review video on the suspension soon though. I just ordered some new 17s and I think this will soften things up in town compared to the 20s and low pros it currently has. Hope this helps
I have a 2016 Tacoma . Off road shop gave me 4 Nitrocharger and said they can only give me a 2,, lift in the front??? My leveling kit was 2.5 ,, now my 285,s rub when backing up ,parallel parking and when I do a sharp turn . I asked for a 3,, lift in the front but they gave me only 2,, . Is a 3,, impossible with the Nitrocharger . What am I missing .
I’m jumping the gun here but you used the sway bar spacers right?
Great video, thanks.
Cheers! 👍
I have a question about the abs lines on the front that attach to the spindle. After the lift, the line seemed to tight to try to reinstall where they originally sat. I ended up running a zip tie through the hole in the spindle and the mounting bracket attached to the line. Is this ok, or is there a better way. Thank you for helping me through your videos.
How did you torque the top shock nut in the rear? It seems to be too small to get anything in there.
Awesome video. I have a 2019 Limited and a 2021 TRD ORP. I did an Bilstein 5100 upgrade to the TRD ORP which really helped with body roll and nose diving. I have been thinking about removing the Xreas system on my limited and going with a pre-built Bilstein front 6112/spring kit & 5100 rears. I find that my Limited really wanders on the highway compared to my TRD ORP. Did your stock limited wander on the highway? How is your ride quality with the upgrade?
I haven't noticed any improvement on the highway but the ride is noticeably stiffer in town. I've noticed less nosedive upon hard braking and less sway when turning corners. I can feel smaller bumps more but it does suck up large bumps much much better.
Where did you find the torque specs? Great video!
Wow… I really enjoy your videos. I’m Rick…My wife’s 2014 4Runner limited.This my wife account and I’m reaching out to you for advise and a little help. I originally put in a leveling kit on it . 3 inch spacer on top of the front and 2 inch rubber hat spacer on back springs. I have noticed that the back sags with two kids in the back seat and a little bit of weight in the back. I believe that the original suspension is starting to go bad. I hear clunking sounds when hitting bumps from the front. I would love to pick your brain after seeing your suspension swap. How can I get in touch with you? Thanks in advance
Rick
Great video! Would like to ask question, installed on 2018 4Runner trd off-road same kit and driving feels very unstable on rough or gravel road. Steering fill very loose and it floats and feels like driving on ice. Got wheel alignment done and checked suspension, all good… upper control arms stock… should I change UCA, is it going to fix issue? Or possibly install spacers on KDSS? Thanks
did you have any issues removing the spring compressors from the OME spring? I’m going to be doing this soon and am curious
Man this video is perfect! I have a 2018 limited stock and have been researching wheels/tires/lift etc. You have great taste and I am looking to do a very similar setup at least the big 3...I would like to do the suspension myself but dont have an air wrench/big battery impact. They have a cheap air wrench at harbor freight but I have a little 6gal ridgid air compressor...think thats enough to do the job for these big bolts?
Also, I've seen some youtube vids with suspension tightening - is it ok to torque while vehicle is off ground? Ive seen where they would lower it before torquing the bolts for the bushings to squeak? idk but would love to get your input! Thanks
Late to the party but I wanted to point out that aren't you supposed to torque the UCA once the vehicles weight is on the tires?
These aren’t rubber bushings, you can torque them in any position. They are lubed with grease and move freely
@@T4Rgarage oh got cha I missed that part. Good deal
cant find on amazon anymore:/
Great video. Looks like your center brake hoses were stretched very tight while the axle was lowered. I did the exact same thing without realizing until after. A year later, have you had any brake problems? Thanks
Good observation, no issues so far
@@T4Rgarage Glad to hear that!
Did you have any warning lights pop up on your dash after the install? I just installed the Bilstein 5100 on my 2020 Limited and had 4 different warnings pop up right after the install.
@@Tala-493 You may have pulled your ABS wire on install. There is lots of info on the forums if you google it
@@T4Rgarage copy thank you, only other thing my pre collision and cruise control came up as well so idk if ill have to take it to the dealership to get the camera recalibrated and the tss sensor
Great video, followed every step as I put my Ironman FCP 3/2 lift in this weekend. I definitely pulled an ABS wire when the driver’s side UCA popped up (darn clip caught the arm even though I took it off), so that light is on and something I need to address.
My center diff light is blinking, and my traction control light is on. Did you have this issue after you lifted yours? I did a diff drop - any chance this is throwing that light?
If you damaged the ABS sensor wire you could get the ABS,Vcs and Trac lights come on. As for the diff, I never did the diff drop on mine. Could you have pulled another wire on the diff? Maybe place your vehicle in neutral and try switching between 4hi and 2wd or H4F (depending on your model). Once you fix the broken ABS wire (lots of info online) try resetting your computer and doing a zero points calibration.
Got around to fixing (almost) everything, so here's a rundown...
The pulled ABS wire also tripped the Center Diff Light (blinking) and the Traction Control Light (solid). My manual did not address this scenario, so I thought I may have damaged the diff when I was trying to get the rear coils in or something. According to the manual, a blinking Center Diff light means it's trying to engage (but this was not the case). Turns out a new $70 ABS wire and $53 of labor to install it fixed everything.
As far as the knocking, I am still diagnosing and treating this. I tightened the nut on the long UCA bolt, as it had already come loose, and this got rid of one of the "metal on metal" sounds I was hearing. Do you recommend Loctite or just torqueing these bolts to spec? I have seen some threads where guys have recommended Loctite, but I am honestly not crazy about that solution.
Another theory on the knocking/binding sounds...I think my sway bar may be bumping up against the body of the shock at low speeds when in reverse, turning, and braking. Kind of hard to figure this one out, but everything is nestled in there pretty close, even with the Ironman sway bar relocation mounts installed. Have you ever seen this?
It could also be my skid plate bumping around. With the diff drop installed, the stock 12mm bolts were too short to fully secure the skid plate. Going to try to find some longer ones this weekend.
Otherwise, very impressed with the ride quality of the Ironman FCP. Extremely stable on the road and it takes routine bumps/potholes better than the stock XREAS (obviously). Minor rubbing with 275/60/20 BFGs on stock 20s, but that should be an easy remedy.
Thanks again for the great walkthrough videos!
@@andrewfowler6696 From what I’ve read researched most installs recommend to just torque to UCA bolts to spec. A bit of blue loctite wouldn’t hurt tho esp if they are coming loose for some reason.
Do you see any areas of wear or impact on your shock or sway bar? A lot of times the sway bars or their end links are to blame. Grab everything firmly (sway bars, end links, control arms, shock, tie rods) and pull/shake to check for play. Retorque all nuts and bolts to spec to insure nothing else has backed off. You could always try giving Ironman a call as well
I do realize this is an older vehicle and and older video, but you really need to undercoat your vehicle with Fluid Film and reapply it every fall. It will help a lot to stop the rust and corrosion.
ruclips.net/video/FgbWGkrim0U/видео.htmlsi=R2Emk2yaSoEtEoj4
Where did you place your jacks for rear
Which 3” lift do you recommend for a ‘22 TRD ORP with KDSS?
Have you replaced this set up since this video? If not, would you go with this again or wish you would have gone a different set up?
Still rocking the same setup. I have no complains, no leaks or issues since install. I might have gone with Bilstein 5100 with the exact same old man emu coils. The old man emu nitro charger shocks might be a bit firm in comparison to the Bilstein. I have yet to compare the two myself tho. Also the nitro charger shocks have the worse paint job, like base coat applied to polished steel. It flakes off easily and rusts. Other than that it’s been great tho
After installing a spacer suspension lift, i noticed a knocking sound coming from the driver front side, on my ‘21 sr5, could this be from pre-loading the suspension? It’s noticeable from hitting speed bumps, or driving down an angle (my drive way is a bit steep) if i get an actual suspension lift (like this one) would that noise go away?
It could be your stock shocks bottoming or topping out depending on the type of spacer lift you added. If you install a proper suspension lift your new shocks will have more travel than the stock ones. I had a similar issue on my last (spacer) lifted vehicle. I would go over a speed bumps and my suspension would clunk really bad unless I went slowly or sideways. It was happening on the extension rather than the compression of the suspension. Before switching to another system though make sure everything is tight under there, especially the sway bar end links. A lot of times it will be as simple as a loose bolt or nut, usually on the sway bar.
Any chance you could measure to the top of your roof rack after your new wheels and tires? I have a 3” lift on the way and I’m worried about making it in/out of my garage.
Will do! For me it will be about 3.5" higher. 3" from the lift and another 0.5" as I go from 32s to 33s. I'll measure it once they are on
@@T4Rgarage sweet thanks!! Looking forward to seeing your wheel and tire selection.
What do you recommend for the 4runner to be level out
Eibach pro truck lift does a nice job of a levelled look with a lift. If you don’t want as much lift and just levelled you could get a set of Bilstein 5100s and set the spring perch to lift the front 0.75”. You can reuse your factory coils with the new front and rear Bilstein shocks
Doing the same to my 21 Limited. Any rubbing running 275/55/20’s?
I did rub on the front fender liner but only when in full lock (wheels fully turned) while backing up. I was able to easily remedy this by heating up the finder liner with a heat gun and pushed/moulded that spot forward with a rubber mallet. Took about 15 min for each side.
Any regrets after going in the rabbit hole?
Been a year and none so far. Gas mileage might have suffered a little but nothing extreme
Was there any need for the diff drop kit with the 3” lift?
The drop kit isn’t necessary but it can prolong the life of the cvs. It’s a trade off because the drop kit will take away some of the ground clearance that you gained from the lift. It can also make is difficult to fit skid plates requiring different hardware/spacers
@@T4Rgarage Thank you for the reply. Your videos are a great help for when it comes time for me to swap my suspension on my 2017.
i have a 2022 limited what exactly is your lift kit?
3” front and back. Check description for part #’s
Is this with KDSS?
non kdss
The manufacturer told me that UCA’s are not necessary so why buy them.
It will help you get your alignment into spec so your vehicle tracks nicely at highway speeds and will also help you fit larger tires without grinding and welding your body mount.
Great video! We would love to do a collab with your channel using any of our kits if you're interested! -TORCH
That is definitely something I'd be interested in doing. I'll shoot you a message when I find a kit that works. Much appreciated!
do you have spacers?
No spacers