Thank you so much for explaining the difference. I was about to balance my wheels at work (not a mechanic shop, we just happen to have a tire mounting and balancing machine) and I was close to doing it with "stat" since the machine showed that it only requires weights on the inside of the wheel. I was thinking "how great, then I don't have to have visible weights close to the spokes" but after some tinkering and further thinking, thank God, I decided to go into the "alu 2" program which puts sticky weights on the inside and outside of the wheel. I didn't know what static balancing really was, I thought it was just a more modern option of perfectly balancing the wheel and only having to put sticky weights on the inside of the wheel where it's not really visible.
I’m happy I was able to explain things for you in this video. if you have any ideas of other things you would like to know about please let me know. take care!
Somone said they stopped going to the shop I had my tyres changed at because they only do 'static ballancing'. Now I know what that is I think I may see if I get get them looked at to make sure they are properly fitted as I do a lot of motorway driving. Thank you for this great explanation. I have trouble with vibration and very responsive turn on my wheel and I was not sure if it was the tyres or something like the power steering fluid needing changing. I confess I know little about either 😂
I’m happy that you found my video informative. these days unless your running big tires like off-road or mudders all wheels should be dynamically balanced. if they did a static balance only, it’s a very good chance that’s your problem. wish you the best of luck and thanks for watching! @beany87
Static balance seems to work well on very skinny tires like motorcycles or older car tires that are relatively small compared to today's tires. The wider you get, the more the dynamic imbalance has "leverage" over the wheel. Suspension type can also dampen or enhance dynamic imbalance. Solid axles and non stearing axles seem to not be as sensitive to dynamic imbalance vs independent suspensions and steer axles. And as you said, speed plays a big part as well. Good video by the way. You explained it quite well.
yes, that is pretty much correct. when a wheel is narrow dynamic balancing has less benefit. so for something like a motorcycle wheel will be perfectly fine with a good static balance. the wider a wheel the more a dynamic balance becomes affective and logical. most car and truck wheels are wide enough that a dynamic balance is best.
not an easy subject to explain, i learned about this when looking at the bubble balancers you get on ebay and the fact that they only do static, and how you have to place the weights to cure the static imbalance but not induce a dynamic imbalance. I eventually bought a second hand john bean\snap-on hand spin balancer pretty much like your but with the bigger wrap around top panel for weights and the cones. have just got the calibration weight for it, so need to just check the calibration, allthough from some wheels ive done it looks ok. as you seem interested in this, have a look at rotational errors on wheel balancers, ie balance the wheel, take it off, refit at say 90 degrees to the previous position and balance again - results are interesting. the manual says that 0.1mm run out on the flange can give a 10g error. so i have learn that balancers are very accurate, but getting a wheel 100% centered on the spindle is next to impossible. some machines allow a 7g diffrence when the wheel is refitted at 180 deg.
Thanks for watching and thank you for the compliment! I actually cover the topic of this in a small series of later videos, when you have the chance check them out! So in regards to what you mentioned. Snapon and John bean (same manufacturer) use an algorithm where if you zero a wheel and rotate 90* it will always read a different weight. But, if you mounted correctly the first time and rotate 180* both will be zero. I have had my machine factory recalibrated to zero by a Snapon technician. I have also directly compared wheels I balanced to both hunters and corghi’s top balancers to verify, both matched mine to the gram so I’m more then confident in my methods and machine. In regard to the calibration weight you get. It is based off the factory calibration, so if that is off your self calibration will be off. I highly recommend doing a factory calibration. 80% of the time if you check spin or rotate and check spin and get different results that is due to mounting error/inconsistencies in mounting. I cover this exact topic in later videos as I mentioned in the begining 🙂!
Thanks for sharing this. I’m shopping for a used balancer and changer. Are you happy with your machines (snapon/corghi)? Any tips on things to look for or avoid? Its for hobby and occasional sidework usage. I have 295/35/21’s at the moment. Thanks!
no problem, my tire machine has been great, but look at the specs on limits of size just in case, but it can handle pretty much any size a table top can do. I’m pretty sure it will do, I’ve done 24” wheels and they were right around that width. if you can get new Corghi has a sale till the end of the year. if your in the North East I have a great dealer. as far as balancer it’s had a few issues but it’s ok, if I can I’ll be buying the Corghi em750(think that’s the model) next and selling the snap on. this combo should work great for you. Corghi is a great brand. don’t get a cheap balancer, I hear of people having issues with them. be sure to get the assist arm for the tire machine. best of luck.
Hello, I have a car with factory black rims. What should be the best balancing method for this type of rims and one that does not cause vibration at high speed?
Bel video.....x esperienza nel settore tutto deve rientrare nelle tolleranze..... è prima di eseguire un bilanciameno il centraggio sul bilanciatore deve essere la priorità di tutto!! Buon lavoro
the bubble balancer will have a few draw backs. most out there are not very sensitive so the weight amount could be different. while a bubble balancer will prevent the hopping vibration source it won’t account for the wheel wanting to pull in or out on a spot of the wheel. I think this would be less of an issue on thinner rim and tire setups though thinking about it. so you might be able to get away with a bubble balancer(static balance) in that case. hope this helps!
dynamic balancing accounts for the static imbalance in the wheel, there is no need to do both. the best practice is to dynamic balance all wheels to minimize any issues.I hope this answers your question, thank you for watching my video!
You are more then welcome! I started a rim repair and tire business just before COVID hit, I held on as long as I could but had to stop and get a job as a dealership technician again so for now it’s on the back burner. thank you for the compliment on my tools/equipment!
I agree and disagree. When you do 33” tires and up, it’s recommended almost 100% of the time to static balance them only. Dynamic balancing works for smaller wheels but even then, most new cars that come out of the factory til this day are only static balancing their wheels. When you dynamic balance a 33”+ tire and the tire tread wears down over time, the weights from the dynamic balance can cause more issues as it will load up on both planes of the wheel and possibly cause feathering and cupping. All of the 4x4 shops typically static balance 33”+ tires as well and there aren’t any inherent issues with going that route.
I agree most large tire combos are statically balanced, this is to keep overall weight usage lower, also with the larger size dynamic balancing doesn’t have as much of an effect on such a large assembly. but I disagree on the manufacturers statically balancing new cars, through everything I’ve seen manufacturers dynamic/road force balance all their car wheels. if they didn’t I could promise you there would be tens of thousands of thousands of complaints on vibrations on new cars. even new truck wheels (f150/etc) are dynamically balanced. if dynamic balancing wasn’t better, most everyone one wouldn’t have gone that direction. I’m sure that a very good static balance would do well as well for a lot of vehicles, but a dynamic balance would still be better if it is applicable. thank you for watching!
Thank you so much for explaining the difference. I was about to balance my wheels at work (not a mechanic shop, we just happen to have a tire mounting and balancing machine) and I was close to doing it with "stat" since the machine showed that it only requires weights on the inside of the wheel. I was thinking "how great, then I don't have to have visible weights close to the spokes" but after some tinkering and further thinking, thank God, I decided to go into the "alu 2" program which puts sticky weights on the inside and outside of the wheel. I didn't know what static balancing really was, I thought it was just a more modern option of perfectly balancing the wheel and only having to put sticky weights on the inside of the wheel where it's not really visible.
I’m happy I was able to explain things for you in this video. if you have any ideas of other things you would like to know about please let me know. take care!
Great commentary and visualization! This is a big help in understanding tire and wheel balance.
I’m happy you found this useful! please feel free to look at my other videos, I have more videos on my channel on balancing.
Somone said they stopped going to the shop I had my tyres changed at because they only do 'static ballancing'. Now I know what that is I think I may see if I get get them looked at to make sure they are properly fitted as I do a lot of motorway driving. Thank you for this great explanation. I have trouble with vibration and very responsive turn on my wheel and I was not sure if it was the tyres or something like the power steering fluid needing changing. I confess I know little about either 😂
I’m happy that you found my video informative. these days unless your running big tires like off-road or mudders all wheels should be dynamically balanced. if they did a static balance only, it’s a very good chance that’s your problem. wish you the best of luck and thanks for watching! @beany87
This was good!
Static balance seems to work well on very skinny tires like motorcycles or older car tires that are relatively small compared to today's tires.
The wider you get, the more the dynamic imbalance has "leverage" over the wheel. Suspension type can also dampen or enhance dynamic imbalance. Solid axles and non stearing axles seem to not be as sensitive to dynamic imbalance vs independent suspensions and steer axles.
And as you said, speed plays a big part as well. Good video by the way. You explained it quite well.
yes, that is pretty much correct. when a wheel is narrow dynamic balancing has less benefit. so for something like a motorcycle wheel will be perfectly fine with a good static balance. the wider a wheel the more a dynamic balance becomes affective and logical. most car and truck wheels are wide enough that a dynamic balance is best.
Great explanation mate
thanks! glad you liked it!
not an easy subject to explain, i learned about this when looking at the bubble balancers you get on ebay and the fact that they only do static, and how you have to place the weights to cure the static imbalance but not induce a dynamic imbalance. I eventually bought a second hand john bean\snap-on hand spin balancer pretty much like your but with the bigger wrap around top panel for weights and the cones. have just got the calibration weight for it, so need to just check the calibration, allthough from some wheels ive done it looks ok. as you seem interested in this, have a look at rotational errors on wheel balancers, ie balance the wheel, take it off, refit at say 90 degrees to the previous position and balance again - results are interesting. the manual says that 0.1mm run out on the flange can give a 10g error. so i have learn that balancers are very accurate, but getting a wheel 100% centered on the spindle is next to impossible. some machines allow a 7g diffrence when the wheel is refitted at 180 deg.
Thanks for watching and thank you for the compliment! I actually cover the topic of this in a small series of later videos, when you have the chance check them out! So in regards to what you mentioned. Snapon and John bean (same manufacturer) use an algorithm where if you zero a wheel and rotate 90* it will always read a different weight. But, if you mounted correctly the first time and rotate 180* both will be zero. I have had my machine factory recalibrated to zero by a Snapon technician. I have also directly compared wheels I balanced to both hunters and corghi’s top balancers to verify, both matched mine to the gram so I’m more then confident in my methods and machine. In regard to the calibration weight you get. It is based off the factory calibration, so if that is off your self calibration will be off. I highly recommend doing a factory calibration. 80% of the time if you check spin or rotate and check spin and get different results that is due to mounting error/inconsistencies in mounting. I cover this exact topic in later videos as I mentioned in the begining 🙂!
@@geardriven1016 thanks, im just watching those vids now.
Thanks for sharing this. I’m shopping for a used balancer and changer. Are you happy with your machines (snapon/corghi)? Any tips on things to look for or avoid? Its for hobby and occasional sidework usage. I have 295/35/21’s at the moment. Thanks!
no problem, my tire machine has been great, but look at the specs on limits of size just in case, but it can handle pretty much any size a table top can do. I’m pretty sure it will do, I’ve done 24” wheels and they were right around that width. if you can get new Corghi has a sale till the end of the year. if your in the North East I have a great dealer. as far as balancer it’s had a few issues but it’s ok, if I can I’ll be buying the Corghi em750(think that’s the model) next and selling the snap on. this combo should work great for you. Corghi is a great brand. don’t get a cheap balancer, I hear of people having issues with them. be sure to get the assist arm for the tire machine. best of luck.
Hello, I have a car with factory black rims. What should be the best balancing method for this type of rims and one that does not cause vibration at high speed?
Bel video.....x esperienza nel settore tutto deve rientrare nelle tolleranze..... è prima di eseguire un bilanciameno il centraggio sul bilanciatore deve essere la priorità di tutto!! Buon lavoro
very educative .Thank you
your very welcome! please feel free to watch more of my videos and take care!
Thank you. Very helpful.
Your welcome, I’m glad you found it informative!
👍👍👍
Great informational video. In your opinion, can the old fashioned bubble balancing do a good enough job if your a diy’er?
the bubble balancer will have a few draw backs. most out there are not very sensitive so the weight amount could be different. while a bubble balancer will prevent the hopping vibration source it won’t account for the wheel wanting to pull in or out on a spot of the wheel. I think this would be less of an issue on thinner rim and tire setups though thinking about it. so you might be able to get away with a bubble balancer(static balance) in that case. hope this helps!
@@geardriven1016 Thank you so much for your help and time…much appreciated.
Can I ask you how to measure the remaining imbalance value (g.m) after finishing the static balance process?
Good vid so do I do the static first and do the dynamic after ?
dynamic balancing accounts for the static imbalance in the wheel, there is no need to do both. the best practice is to dynamic balance all wheels to minimize any issues.I hope this answers your question, thank you for watching my video!
MY FRIEND THANKS FOR TEACHING US. HEY. DO YOU. HAVE A TIRE SHOP. ??? YOU HAVE SOME NICE TOOLS. IN THERE
You are more then welcome! I started a rim repair and tire business just before COVID hit, I held on as long as I could but had to stop and get a job as a dealership technician again so for now it’s on the back burner. thank you for the compliment on my tools/equipment!
I agree and disagree. When you do 33” tires and up, it’s recommended almost 100% of the time to static balance them only. Dynamic balancing works for smaller wheels but even then, most new cars that come out of the factory til this day are only static balancing their wheels. When you dynamic balance a 33”+ tire and the tire tread wears down over time, the weights from the dynamic balance can cause more issues as it will load up on both planes of the wheel and possibly cause feathering and cupping. All of the 4x4 shops typically static balance 33”+ tires as well and there aren’t any inherent issues with going that route.
I agree most large tire combos are statically balanced, this is to keep overall weight usage lower, also with the larger size dynamic balancing doesn’t have as much of an effect on such a large assembly. but I disagree on the manufacturers statically balancing new cars, through everything I’ve seen manufacturers dynamic/road force balance all their car wheels. if they didn’t I could promise you there would be tens of thousands of thousands of complaints on vibrations on new cars. even new truck wheels (f150/etc) are dynamically balanced. if dynamic balancing wasn’t better, most everyone one wouldn’t have gone that direction. I’m sure that a very good static balance would do well as well for a lot of vehicles, but a dynamic balance would still be better if it is applicable. thank you for watching!