As an outsider looking in, and big fan of Adam, the climbing community's biggest negative is their pervasive compulsive elitism. "Speed climbing is not real climbing." "Gym climbing is not real climbing." "Sport climbing is not real climbing." "Redpointing is not what climbing is about." "Greenpointing is the only true climbing." "Climbing man-made structures is not real climbing." "Studying the route before trying it is cheating." etc. etc. Many seem so ready to tell you that you're doing it wrong and their way is the only 'real climbing'. Not a good look, folks. Even Adam seemed to admit in this video there is more nuance to this side of the sport than he gave it credit for. Why is this a thing in this community?
@@Y.unalesca Peoples insecurities and egos being bruised are the root cause of this elitism. It has nothing to do with "high standards". It has very much to do with people being petty, insecure about themselves and their climbing and the inability to understand that people have different preferences when it comes to climbing. It has become especially evident now with the influx of new climbers.
@JJsQuest I think speed climbing is so different from lead/Boulder that it should be a sport for itself. Also fom a viewers standpoint it is really quite boring because I a it is basically the same all the time b I can not relate to it because I never do speed. Even the fact that he has to train for it like a different sport should be a sign, that maybe speed does not fit too good with lead and Boulder.
@@spydolin1 It's not like IFSC had a choice, they were only given 1 set of medals for the olympics for 3 competitive disciplines so the only way to include them all is to mash them together into a combined format.
Haha i think he didt mean to say climbing speed is not climbing properly,,i also climbing boulder and lead but i train speed sometime and in speed training its like you more focus make explosive power and other physical training even in the wall you still focus to improve tecnique,, so when training its feels like you not climbing because its feels like sprinter training,not climbing haha.. but when you focus to make best time its feel like climbing again.. correct me if iam wrong
@@akinaridate9233 is just a diferrent sport to him thats why he makes that remark. speed climbing is completely opposite from what he focused on steady perfect tiny moves
Congrats to the production team for a fantastic series so far. It's not so simple creating such clean episodes. Also, I find it interesting how I can understand certain phrases/words they say at times (my second language happens to be Polish).
@drew13600 I’m actually surprised that climbers don’t train for leg strength. I’m an amateur climber (~6c-ish) and even I feel my legs after a climbing session despite regular bicycling and leg strength (squats, deadlifts) training.
well, this is to be seen... speed training can actually cause Adam to get worse in lead and bouldering... its simply a different kind of sport and if Adam adds some muscles to his lower body, this may lead to issues with climbing at his level of difficulty... thats why speed should have been kept separated from lead and bouldering in the 1st place... training for speed can actually harm our best climbers...
@@Mike-oz4cv I thought the same! I've just started bouldering this year and biggest thing for me (other than technique 😅) is power in legs, specifically if you are in a deep squat position on one leg. His legs are strong he just isn't training like a body builder so its actually useful functional strength
@drew13600 those ones are better together, true. But all seperate would still be the most logical ofcourse. same as with 100m sprint and marathon runners
Finally! All the time I was anticipating a video on how you train for speed. This is in my opinion the most challenging part of any challenge: to get started with the things you suck and dislike. Love how you take on this kind of challenge!
Hello Adam! I was the boy with long hair at your book signing (which I have enjoy quite a bit) and even though I had a million things to say, seeing you always trying to climb harder gives me enough strength to continue in my own climbing. Thank you. -an aspiring sport climber
2:54 Tomoa Narasaki Skip is a difficult difficulty that even world-class pros often make mistakes of, but in today's Olympics, if you don't do this, you won't win a medal. It has become an essential skill, like the back jump of the high jump. crazy
As someone who spends a lot of time working on sprint technique, it's funny to see how un-coordinated Adam runs. So smooth and controlled on the wall but all over the place on flat ground!
I've really come round in the combined format. It's kinda cool to see climbers pushing every aspect of their climbing and training to make it happen. Olympics is ganna be a really exciting event.
you got this. as amazing as it is to watch you do big climbing challenges like 'silence', this is almost more inspiring. you are going completely out of your normal expectations and learning from those who others might see as lower than you. that's the mark of a real champion.
Včera jsem byl lézt poprvé venku v zimě a bylo to nejúžasnější lezení za celou moji krátkou lezeckou kariéru. :-D Ten pocit držet ten zmrzlej šutr je naprosto jedinečnej. Užij si to!
Hi Adam! Have you ever think to use electro stimulation like Compex Mi-Sport to improve your power training? You would be able to recruit much more fibers within the same effort during your exercises. Enjoy your training time!!! Thanks for the good weekly videos and for pushing higher the limits of all the climbing disciplines!!
@adamondra if you want to gain a lot of explosiveness, work on plyometrics and power transfer. For sprinting a little more on the balls of your feet. Isometric workouts to increase Achilles tensile strength and power. Very cool I'm excited to see you compete
T0BBi94 A positive impact could be more explosiveness for the dynamic dyno’s. But also a negative could potentially gaining some extra muscle that could be bad for bodyweight to strength ratio. But that just simplified theres a lot more complexity to it.
I think it can actually help in bouldering for certain problems, but might make him a bit weaker in lead, just as you could've seen with Janja at lead world cups after winning all the boulders. She did seem a bit bulkier, still on the top, but her technique went down a bit which made her do petty mistakes sometimes. You need to be as aerobic as possible for lead too, which is the complete opposite to what you train for in speed and lead. But another possibility is, that it's just going to improve his boulder game and he keeps his lead dominance, since you just can't deny his lifelong lead experience and history.
Relax your face when you run, Adam! Your cheeks, forehead, lips, nose, all the skin, and bring all that focus to your legs and pumping your arms. You got this! *strong arm/leg emoji*
I wish I could help you finding the right exercices to develop power, the right technique and software to analyze your speed climbs. But I'm sure you're in good hands with Rishat as well. I'm a former pro-athlete on world cup level in speedskating. Feel free to reach out.
Adam is just so dang flexible he doesn't have the elasticity for speed. While others get the benefit of the stretch-reflex, he's never stretched so he can't take advantage of that.
Speed climbing involves moving vertically upwards on holds using your arms and legs, etc. Doesn't that count as real climbing? Was Tomoa Narasaki not climbing when he found new beta on the route?
@@Murdog83 I think it's like getting marathon athletes to do the hurdles. Sure, it's still technically running, and the athletes can probably rise to the challenge, and even bring crossdisciplinary insights to the table, but you would be depriving the audience of watching more exciting competitions between people that actually specialise in hurdles.
Hezký video. Jinak přijde mi, že ty běžecké rovinky jsou moc dlouhé na trénink rychlosti a výbušnosti. A ani v tréninku bych nestartoval 3,2,1, start, ale jen na tlesknutí nebo povel jako jako je na závodech.
So much looking forward to see you perform at the Olympics! One question though: What's the difference between having the rope I front of you or taking it under the arm the back like some do?
@Adam, have you already talked about how speed climbing trainings affect YOUR climbing? 🤔 Specifically as the speed climbing training is more and more involved in your training? Thanks
You should train locomotion moves on floor and quadriped animal run drills, "ido portal " is very good on motion, search as "locomotion ido portal" and "quadriped run", hope this helps can't risk you not qualifying 💪😎
Speed climbing is such a weird discipline. Especially the fact that the route is identical in every event snd it is really about executing rehearsed moves from muscle memory. Almost no one who is into 'normal' climbing seems to like it very much.
Adam I love you, lean forward more when you are sprinting. Put your solar plexus over your knees, keep those straight. Running is falling forward in a controlled fashion. Stand up on the balls of your feet, you should have strong toes and calf muscles. Think about using a dragging sled or parachute, they force you into the correct posture. Keep it up 👍
it might actually help to get him a sprinting(running) coach to get higher efficiency as he is waisting a lot of power and movement because of low efficiency that could work to help his climbing legs
damn. my way for training is doing max weight pull-ups and my friend's way of training is doing pull-ups with me on his back. you should try that with Rishat.
I have a question sir! Adam, are you afraid that the gym workouts could affect negatively your climbing performance? Thanks for sharing all this Adam!!!
@@bastouflette2552 yeah what he means is that Adam is just naturally a very fast climber in "non-speed" but rather high difficulty climbs, compared to other elite climbers. Having said that: Whoooosh!
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
" I can't wait to climb properly" , you said it man
As an outsider looking in, and big fan of Adam, the climbing community's biggest negative is their pervasive compulsive elitism. "Speed climbing is not real climbing." "Gym climbing is not real climbing." "Sport climbing is not real climbing." "Redpointing is not what climbing is about." "Greenpointing is the only true climbing." "Climbing man-made structures is not real climbing." "Studying the route before trying it is cheating." etc. etc.
Many seem so ready to tell you that you're doing it wrong and their way is the only 'real climbing'. Not a good look, folks. Even Adam seemed to admit in this video there is more nuance to this side of the sport than he gave it credit for.
Why is this a thing in this community?
@@JJsQuest I wonder if it is because our standards are so high.
@@Y.unalesca Peoples insecurities and egos being bruised are the root cause of this elitism. It has nothing to do with "high standards". It has very much to do with people being petty, insecure about themselves and their climbing and the inability to understand that people have different preferences when it comes to climbing. It has become especially evident now with the influx of new climbers.
@JJsQuest I think speed climbing is so different from lead/Boulder that it should be a sport for itself. Also fom a viewers standpoint it is really quite boring because I a it is basically the same all the time b I can not relate to it because I never do speed. Even the fact that he has to train for it like a different sport should be a sign, that maybe speed does not fit too good with lead and Boulder.
@@spydolin1 It's not like IFSC had a choice, they were only given 1 set of medals for the olympics for 3 competitive disciplines so the only way to include them all is to mash them together into a combined format.
"I plan to break the world record in the Olympics"
That's pretty badass
hes waiting to bust out his secret technique
Yeah that didnt age well.
I like how you say can't wait to start climbing properly again...lol
Haha i think he didt mean to say climbing speed is not climbing properly,,i also climbing boulder and lead but i train speed sometime and in speed training its like you more focus make explosive power and other physical training even in the wall you still focus to improve tecnique,, so when training its feels like you not climbing because its feels like sprinter training,not climbing haha.. but when you focus to make best time its feel like climbing again.. correct me if iam wrong
@@akinaridate9233 is just a diferrent sport to him thats why he makes that remark. speed climbing is completely opposite from what he focused on steady perfect tiny moves
Congrats to the production team for a fantastic series so far. It's not so simple creating such clean episodes.
Also, I find it interesting how I can understand certain phrases/words they say at times (my second language happens to be Polish).
Same here, even though I understand very little polish I can hear the similarities
based poland
same! my second language is russian but a few words here sound familiar
@@emilyb9251 yesss it’s so weird
LMAO never knew Adam can't run. That was funny to watch.
But Adams gonna be a total Beast at the Olympics
@drew13600 I’m actually surprised that climbers don’t train for leg strength. I’m an amateur climber (~6c-ish) and even I feel my legs after a climbing session despite regular bicycling and leg strength (squats, deadlifts) training.
well, this is to be seen... speed training can actually cause Adam to get worse in lead and bouldering... its simply a different kind of sport and if Adam adds some muscles to his lower body, this may lead to issues with climbing at his level of difficulty... thats why speed should have been kept separated from lead and bouldering in the 1st place... training for speed can actually harm our best climbers...
@@Amatsuichi you hit the point, man!
@@Mike-oz4cv I thought the same! I've just started bouldering this year and biggest thing for me (other than technique 😅) is power in legs, specifically if you are in a deep squat position on one leg. His legs are strong he just isn't training like a body builder so its actually useful functional strength
hilarious sprinter face
Can't wait to watch my favorite climber get that golden Olympic medal! Hopefully in 2024, we'll have 3 separate medals for all 3 disciplines
i have read somewhere that speed will be sepperate, but boulder and lead still together
@@polkawillneverdie2159 That's something already. Speed is so much different and specialized
@@polkawillneverdie2159 I read the same. Two medal ceremonies for climbing in 2024
@drew13600 those ones are better together, true. But all seperate would still be the most logical ofcourse. same as with 100m sprint and marathon runners
@drew13600 yeah, thats true. but the point still holds i think.
It's amazing that Adam was so unsuited for this event and still competed on a world class level.
So nice to see two competitors training with each other. Very inspiring!
Finally! All the time I was anticipating a video on how you train for speed. This is in my opinion the most challenging part of any challenge: to get started with the things you suck and dislike. Love how you take on this kind of challenge!
Getting the best competitors around you is the sign of a true champion (Alberto Gines Lopez, now Rishad)!
Adam's running form is a force of nature
You „learn from him“ speed, will you „give something back“? Are you going to train lead or bouldering with Rishat?
One of the best sport climbers in the world teaming up to cross-train with one of the best speed climbers in the world. Excellent pairing!
Hello Adam! I was the boy with long hair at your book signing (which I have enjoy quite a bit) and even though I had a million things to say, seeing you always trying to climb harder gives me enough strength to continue in my own climbing. Thank you.
-an aspiring sport climber
Really love when a star like this is humble enough to try something new and show us his journey. Mad respect.
2:54 Tomoa Narasaki Skip is a difficult difficulty that even world-class pros often make mistakes of, but in today's Olympics, if you don't do this, you won't win a medal. It has become an essential skill, like the back jump of the high jump. crazy
Actually the think that surprise me the most is.... Adam Running!!! feels si strange to see it
As someone who spends a lot of time working on sprint technique, it's funny to see how un-coordinated Adam runs. So smooth and controlled on the wall but all over the place on flat ground!
Very well rounded, extremely inspiring!
I've really come round in the combined format. It's kinda cool to see climbers pushing every aspect of their climbing and training to make it happen. Olympics is ganna be a really exciting event.
Adam je nejlepší lezec na světě !
you got this. as amazing as it is to watch you do big climbing challenges like 'silence', this is almost more inspiring. you are going completely out of your normal expectations and learning from those who others might see as lower than you. that's the mark of a real champion.
Nice! Rishat is a pretty decent climber and it's just nice to see him herre all of a sudden
Včera jsem byl lézt poprvé venku v zimě a bylo to nejúžasnější lezení za celou moji krátkou lezeckou kariéru. :-D Ten pocit držet ten zmrzlej šutr je naprosto jedinečnej. Užij si to!
I wish nothing but the best for you and Rishat Khaibullin.
Adam training like Rocky Balboa... Legend!! Go get it Adam!!!!
nice to see you trying something new, you are so talented
Going to be interesting if Adam will feel a difference in his bouldering/lead after power and raw strength work. Maybe he gets even better in those?
Love how you appreciate Catalunya, here we wait for you
Good luck Adam, I am sure all of the hard work will pay off :)
Will be cheering you on!
Hi Adam! Have you ever think to use electro stimulation like Compex Mi-Sport to improve your power training? You would be able to recruit much more fibers within the same effort during your exercises.
Enjoy your training time!!! Thanks for the good weekly videos and for pushing higher the limits of all the climbing disciplines!!
OMG watching Adam do hill sprints!
Good luck Adam on your Trainings for Speed Climbing !!
He's really good at speaking different languages
Can't wait to see Adam get insanely muscular for the Olympics lol
competitive speed climbing is scary as hell for me. I remember doing it and ended up getting a 15s time on a 15m wall. I was nervous as hell
Way to go Adam!! Keep inspiring and good luck to you bro!!!
Úžasné video! Opravdu moc děkuji! ;-) Držím palce! :-)
So glad to see that this series isn't called Road to Tokyo anymore!! That means the series won't end anytime soon!!
Thanks Adam - these videos are really interesting and well done.
That's great video on speed climbing i have watched on youtube, loved it
Good lucj for your training Adam and Rishad!
@adamondra if you want to gain a lot of explosiveness, work on plyometrics and power transfer. For sprinting a little more on the balls of your feet. Isometric workouts to increase Achilles tensile strength and power. Very cool I'm excited to see you compete
Plus hamstring and glute developer machine.
I wonder if any of this training will impact Adams Lead/Bouldering streanghts?
T0BBi94 A positive impact could be more explosiveness for the dynamic dyno’s. But also a negative could potentially gaining some extra muscle that could be bad for bodyweight to strength ratio. But that just simplified theres a lot more complexity to it.
I think it can actually help in bouldering for certain problems, but might make him a bit weaker in lead, just as you could've seen with Janja at lead world cups after winning all the boulders. She did seem a bit bulkier, still on the top, but her technique went down a bit which made her do petty mistakes sometimes. You need to be as aerobic as possible for lead too, which is the complete opposite to what you train for in speed and lead. But another possibility is, that it's just going to improve his boulder game and he keeps his lead dominance, since you just can't deny his lifelong lead experience and history.
Sprinting is so tiring on the entire body it actually improves almost the entire body once you do it regulary.
Amazing content Bro :)
I never thought I'd see Adam Ondra run
Train deadlift for explosiveness of the legs. Deadlift also correlates well with sprinting speed.
yea, i had to cringe from seeing him on leg press, and his bench form too! >_
@@SonsOfDeForest thats bullshit.. deadlifts train hamstrings and lower back. Speed needs strong quads. Leg press is the correct exercise.
Relax your face when you run, Adam! Your cheeks, forehead, lips, nose, all the skin, and bring all that focus to your legs and pumping your arms. You got this! *strong arm/leg emoji*
I wish I could help you finding the right exercices to develop power, the right technique and software to analyze your speed climbs. But I'm sure you're in good hands with Rishat as well. I'm a former pro-athlete on world cup level in speedskating. Feel free to reach out.
Most of Adam's training, which was not mentioned, is with 2x speed climbing World Record holder Libor Hroza (Czech).
Adam is just so dang flexible he doesn't have the elasticity for speed. While others get the benefit of the stretch-reflex, he's never stretched so he can't take advantage of that.
Keep it up Adam! It will pay off when you’re holding the gold!
nice video Adam goodluck in Tokyo
Learn something from Adam, as always!!
Plyometric training would be great for speed climbing. It's a great way to build power without adding to much excess muscle mass.
The mind blowing thing is: because speed is so different from real climbing, Adam has to go from beginner to olympian in under a year
As do most of the climbers competing this year I reckon. Speed climbing is fairly niche.
Speed climbing involves moving vertically upwards on holds using your arms and legs, etc. Doesn't that count as real climbing? Was Tomoa Narasaki not climbing when he found new beta on the route?
@@Murdog83 I think it's like getting marathon athletes to do the hurdles. Sure, it's still technically running, and the athletes can probably rise to the challenge, and even bring crossdisciplinary insights to the table, but you would be depriving the audience of watching more exciting competitions between people that actually specialise in hurdles.
Speed climbing seems like climbing but with everything that's good about climbing removed
Cross training forces you to be aware of and recognize weaknesses you might not even knew you had.
More power to ya. Grats on staying motivated bro. Fk that speed climbing shit though...
Rishat is good at speed.
Hezký video. Jinak přijde mi, že ty běžecké rovinky jsou moc dlouhé na trénink rychlosti a výbušnosti. A ani v tréninku bych nestartoval 3,2,1, start, ale jen na tlesknutí nebo povel jako jako je na závodech.
All Libor Hroza gets is mentioned in the credits? Should have given him screen time demonstrating the real speed climbing training!
When you’re so good on the wall your run looks unnatural
Adam might try to use superglue as a preventative to protect the nails.
The weirdest part of this video is to see Adam lift weights. just so funny;)
Круто БРАТАН!))
Hády!
Adam Ondra is same character like Napoline Dynamite...🤔😉👌
So much looking forward to see you perform at the Olympics!
One question though:
What's the difference between having the rope I front of you or taking it under the arm the back like some do?
Last I recall, it's more of a preference thing. Some people find it annoying to move around if the rope is in front.
@Adam, have you already talked about how speed climbing trainings affect YOUR climbing? 🤔 Specifically as the speed climbing training is more and more involved in your training? Thanks
Damn where are you going in Cataluña? Cool place with lots of natural and tricky climbing spots
Allez Adam!
tank you adam for your training insights!
one question.. what´s that app that you use for the videoanalyse?
damn these dudes would be insane to train with
You should train locomotion moves on floor and quadriped animal run drills, "ido portal " is very good on motion, search as "locomotion ido portal" and "quadriped run", hope this helps can't risk you not qualifying 💪😎
is the course for speed climbing always the same so that we can compare world record times with this situation?
👌🇨🇿💪
Speed climbing is such a weird discipline. Especially the fact that the route is identical in every event snd it is really about executing rehearsed moves from muscle memory. Almost no one who is into 'normal' climbing seems to like it very much.
You will smash it man...Im sure you will!
Adam running is like trying to watch a turkey run 😅😅😅
im aiming to get just as stong as you some day
More like Rishat Khai BALLIN amirite
Adam I love you, lean forward more when you are sprinting. Put your solar plexus over your knees, keep those straight. Running is falling forward in a controlled fashion. Stand up on the balls of your feet, you should have strong toes and calf muscles. Think about using a dragging sled or parachute, they force you into the correct posture. Keep it up 👍
Nice, enjoy Spain ;)
#1
it might actually help to get him a sprinting(running) coach to get higher efficiency as he is waisting a lot of power and movement because of low efficiency that could work to help his climbing legs
damn. my way for training is doing max weight pull-ups and my friend's way of training is doing pull-ups with me on his back. you should try that with Rishat.
Dude that run looks like rocky balboa training
you should file your nails instead of clipping or cutting them... works for guitar players.
I have a question sir! Adam, are you afraid that the gym workouts could affect negatively your climbing performance? Thanks for sharing all this Adam!!!
Watching Adam run just looks so... wrong... like a fish trying to swim
I wonder how you balance gaining the necessary muscle for the explosive power and keeping your weight low enough for the disciplines, especially lead?
I’ve never seen Adam run haha
Good lack, Adam, with speed climbing. You can also ask some Russian trainers for help. In Russia there is good and long speed climbing history.
Dear editor- you need a rocky 4 style montage
Can you imagine Adam walking into a gym and buff dudes thinking do you even lift brah
And Adam does a 1 finger pull up haha
He acts like he's new to this, but Adam's been speed climbing 5.14s for years.
What do you mean? His personal record was in Toulouse (2019) with 7.464 sec
@@bastouflette2552 I think he is referring to a climbing grading system used to grade sport climbing routes. 5.14 would be something like 8b+ to 9a
@@dummielp oh thanks, i'm very not used to this grading system. It confuses me so much ;-)
@@bastouflette2552 yeah what he means is that Adam is just naturally a very fast climber in "non-speed" but rather high difficulty climbs, compared to other elite climbers.
Having said that: Whoooosh!
putting in a decent effort training speed is good, but remember to focus on your strengths, not your weaknesses!
Give me a heart please mi a climber and you inspire me
Gold to Ondra! Remember who said it first!
Nvm
Please keep your core activated as you work on explosive "power movements" - injury is not an option!