Thank you. Im so pleased the videos are still helping people. Please can you subscribe and share. Once I hit 1400 subscribers I can reboot the channel.
Thanks Pat. I would say it's more time consuming than complicated so just take it slow and follow the manuals and you'll be fine. When we decided to film our projects we wanted to make something snappy but informative so am so please you think it could be useful. We're really hoping the channel takes off and we can do more so please share with anyone you think may enjoy it. Have a lovely Christmas.
Oh ! Bugger !! Now I've no excuse, I suppose I'll have to stop procrastinating and get on with rebuilding my 900R , where did you manage to get the rebuild kit from , last time I looked they were no longer available . cracking series looking forward to seeing more
I actually got the rebuild kit from eBay. Just rollers, springs and spring caps. Always best to rebuild before they continuously fail to grab. If it's already slipping and clattering pay lots off attention to all of the components not just the rollers etc.
Hello! I've bought a gpz900r thats been off the road 20 years... im currently replacing the cams and chain so have all the engine covers off with the emgine still in the frame, just about to reassemble it. Some people are saying i need to do this too before i go any further. What are your thoughts/recommendations?
Great and helpfull video! Maybe you could help me with the following: After replacing the starter clutch parts like you, I dont get the starter cog into place ( tried it counterclockwise). Is there a „trick“? And: is it normal, that the housing is bended up a little bit in the area of the 3 zylinders? Thanks a lot, Markus
Guess what, they had sold me the wrong parts! Looked similar but the 3 zylinders were a little bit too long. For this reason they bent the casing and the zylinders could‘t move. After receiving the right Parts everything worked out like you described it in the video :-) Thanks again and best regards, Markus
@@markuskemper363 Very pleased to know it's sorted now. If you haven't already could you subscribe and share this channel. I'm in the process of re-launching it and subscribers mean more videos. Anything you can do to help raise awareness to my channel would be really appreciated you help. Thanks Rob
I can't remember now. We sourced a lot of parts from a company that sold GPZ kit. I don't believe the company exists now. There were also kit available on eBay and other online places. It's a pretty basic and common part so should be easy to find with some googling.
Thanks for the good feedback. Yes some do replace the unit with one from a ZZR1100 (might be a common unit in many models). Not sure if it's just a case of swapping the clutch unit, you might other components as well. We wanted to keep the bike as standard as possible so stuck with the original.
@@davidyoung9561 It's a very common problem and a biggish job. Getting to it is the hardest part. Been so long since I worked on the bike I'm not sure if it can be done in the frame. Ours wasn't slipping but it seemed crazy not to replace the rollers and springs whilst the engine was apart. Best of luck with the repair. Forums will be full of tips and tricks include upgrading to a later design starter clutch.
@FixRideExplore I have a workshop manual and I've just looked. It can be done with the engine in the frame. The clutch cover has to come off and removal of the clutch assembly is necessary to gain access to the starter clutch. Not too big a job compared to if the crankcase had to be split.
Hi. Good video but you didn't show the alignment of the oil hole on the spline shaft to the center of the starter clutch. Perhaps you could add it as I think most people don't even realise that there is an alignment.
Hello Tony. I heard this theory before starting on the engine but don't recall it mentioned in the workshop manual. In my opinion the hole in the shaft doesn't need to be aligned but always make your own call. There is a turned cavity at the oil holes that will fill with oil and distributes the oil around and to the starter clutch. Doesn't hurt to align the holes but I'm not convinced it's actually needed.
@@FixRideExplore Yes I agree it isn't written about but. If you look at the engine oil flow chart / diagram in the Kawasaki manual it clearly shows the oil flow from the pump along that shaft and coming out of the bearing. IMHO It was drilled there for a reason and if it's not lined up it won't flow to the centre of the bearing. Just as easy to fit it correctly so might as well.
@@tonymansell4691 Totally agree with the oil flow explanation. Maybe I didn't explain my observations very well. The hole on the shaft fills the cavity between the shaft and the starter clutch. The cavity feeds the hole to the starter clutch. Very common arrangement with many applications. As I said there's no harm in aligning the holes but personally I don't think it's needed. We decided to film our projects and not make tutorials so always make you're own judgement call.
Your comment can be valid but wasn't a concern in this example. Starter clutch was working perfectly before. Changed rollers/springs as a caution and to demonstrate how the starter clutch works. Inspected for flat spots and any other wear. All good. I've found with these starter clutches it's the initial engagement that causes them to start slipping. This usually is the springs reduced pressure, causing slip, then a polishing of the surfaces. This then exaggerates the wear further widening the tolerances to the point it then binds (rollers don't roll) creating flat spots. Fortunately it was all in superb condition.
Achiles heels of the beast! Great to see the internals
Really good instruction video. Interesting to follow your rebuild, thumbs up!
Great stuff, very useful for my forthcoming GPX750R build. Not exactly the same but many similarities.
Thank you. Im so pleased the videos are still helping people. Please can you subscribe and share. Once I hit 1400 subscribers I can reboot the channel.
I hope that I never have to do this job on my 900R but if I do this will be a lifesaver!
Thanks for this series, I'm learning a lot.
Happy Christmas!
Thanks Pat. I would say it's more time consuming than complicated so just take it slow and follow the manuals and you'll be fine.
When we decided to film our projects we wanted to make something snappy but informative so am so please you think it could be useful. We're really hoping the channel takes off and we can do more so please share with anyone you think may enjoy it. Have a lovely Christmas.
Absolutely fantastic vid. Clear and concise with very useful tips. Already shared and subscribed. Keep up the good work gents.
Thanks David. Much appreciated
Excellent, very informative indeed
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent, very informative and educational
Thank you TT
Could you remember how long those springs are new? I can’t find the specs in my book.
Thanks.
@@allan.in.australia2415 Sorry I don't recall the lengths.
Oh ! Bugger !! Now I've no excuse, I suppose I'll have to stop procrastinating and get on with rebuilding my 900R , where did you manage to get the rebuild kit from , last time I looked they were no longer available . cracking series looking forward to seeing more
I actually got the rebuild kit from eBay. Just rollers, springs and spring caps.
Always best to rebuild before they continuously fail to grab. If it's already slipping and clattering pay lots off attention to all of the components not just the rollers etc.
Hello! I've bought a gpz900r thats been off the road 20 years... im currently replacing the cams and chain so have all the engine covers off with the emgine still in the frame, just about to reassemble it. Some people are saying i need to do this too before i go any further. What are your thoughts/recommendations?
If the starter clutch is accessible I would refurbished the unit. But it's up to you to make the call.
Great and helpfull video!
Maybe you could help me with the following:
After replacing the starter clutch parts like you, I dont get the starter cog into place ( tried it counterclockwise). Is there a „trick“? And: is it normal, that the housing is bended up a little bit in the area of the 3 zylinders?
Thanks a lot, Markus
It's a case of perseverance and making sure the rollers are recessed properly. Nothing should be bent though. Best of luck Markus
Thanks a lot!
Guess what, they had sold me the wrong parts! Looked similar but the 3 zylinders were a little bit too long. For this reason they bent the casing and the zylinders could‘t move. After receiving the right Parts everything worked out like you described it in the video :-)
Thanks again and best regards, Markus
@@markuskemper363 Very pleased to know it's sorted now.
If you haven't already could you subscribe and share this channel. I'm in the process of re-launching it and subscribers mean more videos. Anything you can do to help raise awareness to my channel would be really appreciated you help.
Thanks Rob
Where did you get the Rebuilding Kit??
I can't remember now. We sourced a lot of parts from a company that sold GPZ kit. I don't believe the company exists now. There were also kit available on eBay and other online places. It's a pretty basic and common part so should be easy to find with some googling.
Lovely video! Thank you
Some people seem to replacing the clutch with a z1000(i think). Would that a complete switch + the starter clutch gear?
Thanks for the good feedback.
Yes some do replace the unit with one from a ZZR1100 (might be a common unit in many models). Not sure if it's just a case of swapping the clutch unit, you might other components as well.
We wanted to keep the bike as standard as possible so stuck with the original.
I have a 1984 GPZ900R and it needs a new starter clutch because when I start the engine, it slips.
@@davidyoung9561 It's a very common problem and a biggish job. Getting to it is the hardest part. Been so long since I worked on the bike I'm not sure if it can be done in the frame. Ours wasn't slipping but it seemed crazy not to replace the rollers and springs whilst the engine was apart.
Best of luck with the repair. Forums will be full of tips and tricks include upgrading to a later design starter clutch.
@FixRideExplore I have a workshop manual and I've just looked. It can be done with the engine in the frame. The clutch cover has to come off and removal of the clutch assembly is necessary to gain access to the starter clutch. Not too big a job compared to if the crankcase had to be split.
Hi. Good video but you didn't show the alignment of the oil hole on the spline shaft to the center of the starter clutch. Perhaps you could add it as I think most people don't even realise that there is an alignment.
Hello Tony. I heard this theory before starting on the engine but don't recall it mentioned in the workshop manual.
In my opinion the hole in the shaft doesn't need to be aligned but always make your own call.
There is a turned cavity at the oil holes that will fill with oil and distributes the oil around and to the starter clutch.
Doesn't hurt to align the holes but I'm not convinced it's actually needed.
@@FixRideExplore Yes I agree it isn't written about but. If you look at the engine oil flow chart / diagram in the Kawasaki manual it clearly shows the oil flow from the pump along that shaft and coming out of the bearing. IMHO It was drilled there for a reason and if it's not lined up it won't flow to the centre of the bearing. Just as easy to fit it correctly so might as well.
@@tonymansell4691 Totally agree with the oil flow explanation. Maybe I didn't explain my observations very well.
The hole on the shaft fills the cavity between the shaft and the starter clutch. The cavity feeds the hole to the starter clutch. Very common arrangement with many applications.
As I said there's no harm in aligning the holes but personally I don't think it's needed.
We decided to film our projects and not make tutorials so always make you're own judgement call.
@@FixRideExplore Hi. Yes I agree I can see that there is a slight recess around the oil hole which will allow oil to move around the shaft.
you have only done a quick fix you should also change the gear drive as they get flat spots and this fix will not last!
Your comment can be valid but wasn't a concern in this example.
Starter clutch was working perfectly before. Changed rollers/springs as a caution and to demonstrate how the starter clutch works.
Inspected for flat spots and any other wear. All good.
I've found with these starter clutches it's the initial engagement that causes them to start slipping. This usually is the springs reduced pressure, causing slip, then a polishing of the surfaces. This then exaggerates the wear further widening the tolerances to the point it then binds (rollers don't roll) creating flat spots.
Fortunately it was all in superb condition.