At the dealership years ago, at closing time, a guy showed up with a mint Yamaha XS1100 in the back of his truck and wanted to trade. It ran good but had a flat rear tire. In a hurry since it was late, we put a deal together and he bought a new bike. A few days later our tech removed the rear wheel and tire looking for a leak but couldn't find one, he reinstalled it and called it a day. We took the bike out for a test ride and second gear was gone, awol. That a-hole let the air out of the rear tire so we couldn't test ride it and pulled a slick one on us. Needless to say, we had a new policy implemented, no trade values until we test ride all potential trades.
I love the joy when you take things apart. The whole, "oooooo look at this!" I think EVERY gearhead does that. And Dan DON'T buy the Anglia. If you're going to put up with British vehicles (it's a Ford but it's a British Ford) at least make it something like an MG or a Triumph! Or a Healey :)
I have a 86 kawasaki 900 in storage. It was partially disassembled 20 years ago. Bought as a project and now just dont want to mess with it. Has title and a really nice Corbin seat.
New kawis have cassette type gearboxes, so to pull them off you won't need to break the case in half. Just remove the clutch and the gearbox comes out. Which it's pretty nice!
clarkson once did an emergency stop from 70mph in a Ford Anglia and he said at the time it was one of the scariest things he's ever done. wretched horrible things and I'm from england lol
That is actually a pretty nice looking older Kawi…. Original turn signals, rear fender still in one piece, pretty nice find. I had an 86’ 600 that I really loved, one of the good ones that got away. Love your vids, keep up the good work.
Mine shifts like butter as long as I run Castrol 10w-40 conventional. The guy I bought it from told me that. I didn't believe him and switched to motorcycle specific Rotella, and the bike shifted clunky and I missed 2nd gear often. Switched back to 10w-40 Castrol conventional car oil and all was buttery again. 86 gpz1000rx
I’d probably look to replace the clutch as well Casey - they are prone to exploding on the GPz just for peace of mind if you a replacing the selector. Mine went last week at high speed and it wasn’t pretty! Easy to do - great engine the work on 👍🏻
Inquiry. My Yamaha FGR bike has a problem when I put the second gear after a few meters it suddenly returns to neutral. Is the problem in the fork or from the second gear please help and thank you
As best i can figure 1st and 2nd get the most load on them. so they put them as close to the cases and the bearings there. if the transmission is popping out of gear it is more likely that the dogs are rounded.
You are partially correct. Yes 1st and 2nd have the highest load. But they are not next to each other more because of the inherent nature of a constant mesh motorcycle trans works in general. Since, on the output shaft, 1st gear is the largest gear, both diametrically speaking and ratio wise and thus every gear thereafter numerically gets smaller and smaller - then placing 1st gear next to 2nd (as in physically side by side) wouldn’t be possible (At least it would be very impractical and require some odd and unnecessary geometry/machining). Im my 30 years experience of building motorcycle engines for a living I don’t think I have ever seen anything but 1st and 2nd seperate and usually on opposite ends of their shaft. Because of the way power flows through a m/c constant mesh trans and how gear engagement and shifting is by dogs on adjacent gears-the physical size, diameter wise, determines placement. The two largest gears can’t be placed side by side because their dogs/slots wouldn’t be able to be placed in the right position when taking into account that certain gears must have an internal spline to lock them to their respective shaft whereas others need only have a smooth bore to rotate freely on their shaft (or a bushing/bearing). So whether a gear is a fixed (splined) or fixed but free-wheeling or fixed and sliding (axially) gear then all these different factors and hence differing gear physical geometries contribute to why 1st and 2nd cannot be adjacent on their shaft. It’s kinda hard to explain without a visual aid but if you look at a closeup of a trans and think about how the power is transmitted through it you can see what I mean by how the geometry is not conducive to it. That’s why I think it’s more this that keeps them separate rather than placing the highest loads right next to the bearings. Yet that is a good point you noticed and is an inherent positive by product. Here’s a hayabusa trans that you can zoom in and get a better visualization of what I mean. store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-racecut-transmission-suzuki-hayabusa-99-07/#gallery The top shaft/gears is the input shaft.the furthest gear to the right, just before the big bearing is 1st gear and is actually integral to the shaft. It’s machined right into the shaft itself. Very common is this especially in the big bore highest torque producing engines. Since first gear has the most gear reduction and thus torque produced it is built integral to avoid having a gear that is seperate and coupled to its shaft via splines that could easily be sheared from the 1st gears high torque multiplication. The bottom shaft/cluster of gears is the output shaft or countershaft or as some oems call it the “drive” shaft as it drives the chain driving the rear wheel. They sometimes call the input shaft the driven shaft as it gets its drive from the crankshaft and in turn “drives” the output shaft. From left to right and the same for both shafts the gears are 2-6-3-4-5-1. On the input, 2nd is splined and fixed from sliding, 6th is freewheeling and fixed, 3rd and 4th are one solid piece and is splined and able to slide both left and right and has dogs on either side to engage with 5th or 6th gear when slid one way or the other, 5th is a free wheeling fixed gear, and 1st is integral to the shaft as I described earlier. On the output shaft at the bottom, 2nd is freewheeling and fixed, 6th is splined to the shaft and has dogs on both sides, 3rd is freewheeling and fixed in place, 4th is the same freewheeling and fixed in place, 5th is splined to shaft and sliding left and right with dogs on both sides, and finally 1st is a freewheeling gear that is fixed from sliding. From here you can figure out any gear change’s drive and driven gear and what must move to accomplish any gear. For instance, since we know when starting off in first gear, the input shaft is spinning and since first gear is integral to the shaft it must be spinning. Therefore it’s teeth are meshed with 1st gear output at all times (hence the name of m/c trans of this type being “constant mesh”. Yet 1st output is a freewheeling gear therefore it doesn’t transfer any power to its shaft unless something were to “couple” it to that shaft. 5th gear is directly adjacent to it to the left. Since 5th is splined to the shaft and a sliding gear with dogs on both sides of it, sliding it to the right “couples” it to the freewheeling 1st gear and therefore transfers the power from 1st gear input to 1st gear output and now the output shaft is spinning. I’ll describe neutral and 2nd gear change and the rest are easily figured out. In neutral the input shaft is free to spin independent of the output shaft even though all the gears are in “constant mesh”. When in neutral all 3 sliding gears are in the middle of their range of movement, thus not engaging their dogs with any adjacent gears. No gears are actually coupled and everything is just free spinning. Shifting the lever up to second rotates the shift drum via the ratchet and pawls or whatever mechanism the particular trans uses and pulls 5th output away from 1st gear allowing it back into its neutral position while at the same time the drum slides 6th output over into contact with 2nd gear output which is again a freewheeling gear. But since 6th output is splined when it slides over and the dogs engage, the ordinarilay freewheeling 2nd gear now becomes coupled to the output shaft and thus the shifting into 2nd gear is accomplished. So on and so forth!!!!!
Make sure the anti dive works, or just disconnect. If they don't work the front end is like a rocking horse, becomes scary. No problem in 10 years doing clutchless up shifts. Drop the sump make sure the oil strainer isn't blocked by past owners using silicone sealant. Should never use that stuff. Stuff to look for worn valves, camshafts, camshaft chain guides. And later modded oil fed pipes for camshafts. Also replace the vacuum fuel tap and folks forget there are two oil drain plugs in the sump. To get the head back on, fit the bolts to the head and tie them together with string. You can then fit the head without the problem of trying to fit the bolts in after. And fit a new shifter spring, they break and are a pain to replace. Split the case, it comes apart and back easy.
You should really do a pov video riding the bike when it's done, and talk about riding techniques like the manual transmission videos I'd love to see that.
Does that casing require a gasket? I'm currently having shifting problems where I have to "tap" the shift lever with my foot to downshift, I suspect my bike has the same problem as described in this video, bit I can't find any information on that case needing a gasket. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My 2 year old bike has the problem at 3:00, it sometimes won't downshift and just goes 'soft' did you find what was causing it in your case, I'm wondering if i could repair it easily before going to the garage
If it pull even a little bit and then jump out of gear then dog tooth on second gear are gone. And no hammering, sanding or grinding can fix it. It can but 10 000 km later we are gonna see new video about: how to change Kavasaki 2nd gear. If you wanna swap those 2nd gears from old and put it in new you gotta swap those other 2 sister gears on driven shaft because they are already run in and doing great together. Don't mix parts. Change whole thing
He should absolutely get the Ford Anglia My first car sorry my first muscle car was a 68 Ford falcon supercoupe the head blown up for 27 cobra jet in it and I took a Lincoln Continental engine and put it in there and it was awesome when I was in high school back in 2005
That entire B is for Build situation is bull. Now we can't call the bike by it's real name, not to mention the World's Coolest Kerosene-Fueled Space Heater that you built.
In the background I saw a porsche 928, a VW Scirocco, and you are working on a Kawa Gpz 900... ...I fell like I'm 18 again...!!!!! ...but... a Guzzi 850???? you must like horror....The gpz900 was the fisrt modern bike, and the first Kawasaki with a great frame, if you ride the Guzzi after the Kawa, you will think somthing's wrong, very wrong....Guzzi made great things in the past, but in the 80ies gave the worst of her. Unreliable, bad built, slow, bad handling. Often ugly. talkin more serously, before dismantling the gpz engine I suggest you the find a Haynes manual: motorcycle engine can have some little tricks and if you don't know them, damage (or time waste) are very easy.
We are gonna need casey to drive down the run way in shades and a flight jacket.
easy don't wanna get sued... sigh....
I've always wondered how these things shifted with the sequential stuff, and now, thanks to you, I know!
Nothing sounds as distinct as a straight cut gear sequential.
ruclips.net/video/g8xnIFf4id4/видео.html
Here is a video I watched a while ago, maybe it will give you more understanding!👍
This is actually the perfect video for me.
At the dealership years ago, at closing time, a guy showed up with a mint Yamaha XS1100 in the back of his truck and wanted to trade. It ran good but had a flat rear tire. In a hurry since it was late, we put a deal together and he bought a new bike. A few days later our tech removed the rear wheel and tire looking for a leak but couldn't find one, he reinstalled it and called it a day. We took the bike out for a test ride and second gear was gone, awol. That a-hole let the air out of the rear tire so we couldn't test ride it and pulled a slick one on us.
Needless to say, we had a new policy implemented, no trade values until we test ride all potential trades.
I love the joy when you take things apart. The whole, "oooooo look at this!" I think EVERY gearhead does that. And Dan DON'T buy the Anglia. If you're going to put up with British vehicles (it's a Ford but it's a British Ford) at least make it something like an MG or a Triumph! Or a Healey :)
Lotus?
Daniel that’s just being a masochist 😂
I have a 86 kawasaki 900 in storage. It was partially disassembled 20 years ago. Bought as a project and now just dont want to mess with it. Has title and a really nice Corbin seat.
New kawis have cassette type gearboxes, so to pull them off you won't need to break the case in half. Just remove the clutch and the gearbox comes out. Which it's pretty nice!
clarkson once did an emergency stop from 70mph in a Ford Anglia and he said at the time it was one of the scariest things he's ever done. wretched horrible things and I'm from england lol
That is actually a pretty nice looking older Kawi…. Original turn signals, rear fender still in one piece, pretty nice find. I had an 86’ 600 that I really loved, one of the good ones that got away. Love your vids, keep up the good work.
Thank you for the video. I am a new motorcycle driver learning about this machines
Mine shifts like butter as long as I run Castrol 10w-40 conventional. The guy I bought it from told me that. I didn't believe him and switched to motorcycle specific Rotella, and the bike shifted clunky and I missed 2nd gear often. Switched back to 10w-40 Castrol conventional car oil and all was buttery again. 86 gpz1000rx
I’d probably look to replace the clutch as well Casey - they are prone to exploding on the GPz just for peace of mind if you a replacing the selector. Mine went last week at high speed and it wasn’t pretty! Easy to do - great engine the work on 👍🏻
Hey Casey I love the projects and I am inspired by the builds you guys do!!
you wanna try keep that a numbers matching bike as they are going to be worth big $$ in the future so don't lose the old engine case
Just seen your page.motorcycles are my thing.
3 vids on top of each other for me. Daaamn casey. Wonder when the BMW vid is coming
Love the 80s vibe from the Ninja!
Inquiry. My Yamaha FGR bike has a problem when I put the second gear after a few meters it suddenly returns to neutral. Is the problem in the fork or from the second gear please help and thank you
All right! We're getting our hands dirty today!
As best i can figure 1st and 2nd get the most load on them. so they put them as close to the cases and the bearings there. if the transmission is popping out of gear it is more likely that the dogs are rounded.
You are partially correct. Yes 1st and 2nd have the highest load. But they are not next to each other more because of the inherent nature of a constant mesh motorcycle trans works in general. Since, on the output shaft, 1st gear is the largest gear, both diametrically speaking and ratio wise and thus every gear thereafter numerically gets smaller and smaller - then placing 1st gear next to 2nd (as in physically side by side) wouldn’t be possible (At least it would be very impractical and require some odd and unnecessary geometry/machining). Im my 30 years experience of building motorcycle engines for a living I don’t think I have ever seen anything but 1st and 2nd seperate and usually on opposite ends of their shaft. Because of the way power flows through a m/c constant mesh trans and how gear engagement and shifting is by dogs on adjacent gears-the physical size, diameter wise, determines placement. The two largest gears can’t be placed side by side because their dogs/slots wouldn’t be able to be placed in the right position when taking into account that certain gears must have an internal spline to lock them to their respective shaft whereas others need only have a smooth bore to rotate freely on their shaft (or a bushing/bearing). So whether a gear is a fixed (splined) or fixed but free-wheeling or fixed and sliding (axially) gear then all these different factors and hence differing gear physical geometries contribute to why 1st and 2nd cannot be adjacent on their shaft. It’s kinda hard to explain without a visual aid but if you look at a closeup of a trans and think about how the power is transmitted through it you can see what I mean by how the geometry is not conducive to it. That’s why I think it’s more this that keeps them separate rather than placing the highest loads right next to the bearings. Yet that is a good point you noticed and is an inherent positive by product.
Here’s a hayabusa trans that you can zoom in and get a better visualization of what I mean.
store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-racecut-transmission-suzuki-hayabusa-99-07/#gallery
The top shaft/gears is the input shaft.the furthest gear to the right, just before the big bearing is 1st gear and is actually integral to the shaft. It’s machined right into the shaft itself. Very common is this especially in the big bore highest torque producing engines. Since first gear has the most gear reduction and thus torque produced it is built integral to avoid having a gear that is seperate and coupled to its shaft via splines that could easily be sheared from the 1st gears high torque multiplication.
The bottom shaft/cluster of gears is the output shaft or countershaft or as some oems call it the “drive” shaft as it drives the chain driving the rear wheel. They sometimes call the input shaft the driven shaft as it gets its drive from the crankshaft and in turn “drives” the output shaft.
From left to right and the same for both shafts the gears are 2-6-3-4-5-1.
On the input, 2nd is splined and fixed from sliding, 6th is freewheeling and fixed, 3rd and 4th are one solid piece and is splined and able to slide both left and right and has dogs on either side to engage with 5th or 6th gear when slid one way or the other, 5th is a free wheeling fixed gear, and 1st is integral to the shaft as I described earlier.
On the output shaft at the bottom, 2nd is freewheeling and fixed, 6th is splined to the shaft and has dogs on both sides, 3rd is freewheeling and fixed in place, 4th is the same freewheeling and fixed in place, 5th is splined to shaft and sliding left and right with dogs on both sides, and finally 1st is a freewheeling gear that is fixed from sliding.
From here you can figure out any gear change’s drive and driven gear and what must move to accomplish any gear.
For instance, since we know when starting off in first gear, the input shaft is spinning and since first gear is integral to the shaft it must be spinning. Therefore it’s teeth are meshed with 1st gear output at all times (hence the name of m/c trans of this type being “constant mesh”. Yet 1st output is a freewheeling gear therefore it doesn’t transfer any power to its shaft unless something were to “couple” it to that shaft. 5th gear is directly adjacent to it to the left. Since 5th is splined to the shaft and a sliding gear with dogs on both sides of it, sliding it to the right “couples” it to the freewheeling 1st gear and therefore transfers the power from 1st gear input to 1st gear output and now the output shaft is spinning.
I’ll describe neutral and 2nd gear change and the rest are easily figured out.
In neutral the input shaft is free to spin independent of the output shaft even though all the gears are in “constant mesh”. When in neutral all 3 sliding gears are in the middle of their range of movement, thus not engaging their dogs with any adjacent gears. No gears are actually coupled and everything is just free spinning.
Shifting the lever up to second rotates the shift drum via the ratchet and pawls or whatever mechanism the particular trans uses and pulls 5th output away from 1st gear allowing it back into its neutral position while at the same time the drum slides 6th output over into contact with 2nd gear output which is again a freewheeling gear. But since 6th output is splined when it slides over and the dogs engage, the ordinarilay freewheeling 2nd gear now becomes coupled to the output shaft and thus the shifting into 2nd gear is accomplished.
So on and so forth!!!!!
Make sure the anti dive works, or just disconnect. If they don't work the front end is like a rocking horse, becomes scary.
No problem in 10 years doing clutchless up shifts.
Drop the sump make sure the oil strainer isn't blocked by past owners using silicone sealant. Should never use that stuff.
Stuff to look for worn valves, camshafts, camshaft chain guides. And later modded oil fed pipes for camshafts.
Also replace the vacuum fuel tap and folks forget there are two oil drain plugs in the sump.
To get the head back on, fit the bolts to the head and tie them together with string. You can then fit the head without the problem of trying to fit the bolts in after. And fit a new shifter spring, they break and are a pain to replace.
Split the case, it comes apart and back easy.
First!!!!!! HIIII CASEY!!!!! From Detroit Michigan.
You should really do a pov video riding the bike when it's done, and talk about riding techniques like the manual transmission videos I'd love to see that.
Does that casing require a gasket? I'm currently having shifting problems where I have to "tap" the shift lever with my foot to downshift, I suspect my bike has the same problem as described in this video, bit I can't find any information on that case needing a gasket. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dogs are rounded off, happens when it has been speed shifted too much. that's why racing bikes "undercut" the gears (dogs). Good content though.
I have a Kawasaki ex500 that will only shift from 1st to neutral but will not go into second or above. Any clue what's going on?
My 2 year old bike has the problem at 3:00, it sometimes won't downshift and just goes 'soft' did you find what was causing it in your case, I'm wondering if i could repair it easily before going to the garage
How did you get into racing ?? Really want to because it’s a passion of mine but it seems to not be in favor of many people.
well hell yea i enjoyed this, thank you mr casey!
If it pull even a little bit and then jump out of gear then dog tooth on second gear are gone. And no hammering, sanding or grinding can fix it.
It can but 10 000 km later we are gonna see new video about: how to change Kavasaki 2nd gear.
If you wanna swap those 2nd gears from old and put it in new you gotta swap those other 2 sister gears on driven shaft because they are already run in and doing great together. Don't mix parts. Change whole thing
Get the dog's undercut and hardened after you replace the shift fork.
What happened next? No follow up videos?
He should absolutely get the Ford Anglia My first car sorry my first muscle car was a 68 Ford falcon supercoupe the head blown up for 27 cobra jet in it and I took a Lincoln Continental engine and put it in there and it was awesome when I was in high school back in 2005
Hey Casey, when you need to drive up an airforce runway with a jacket and aviators you can hit me up, I have some airforce buddies ;)
Every single Kaw I’ve ridden seemed to have 2nd gear issues. Had to have the gears beveled.
That entire B is for Build situation is bull. Now we can't call the bike by it's real name, not to mention the World's Coolest Kerosene-Fueled Space Heater that you built.
Second my phone died one minute before upload 😭😭😭😭
i just finish fixing my ZX12R....the 2nd went over the 1st gear...lol...
put a 5.0 in the anglia hahaha
Yours cam drunk?
Why its moving when you are talking?
:-)
I need help 😞
Trust a car guy to give up on a bike build. 😮
And why you dont work on the table?
Your back will crying after 50 age
Probably not but might get taken out of recommended for the word trany
In the background I saw a porsche 928, a VW Scirocco, and you are working on a Kawa Gpz 900...
...I fell like I'm 18 again...!!!!!
...but...
a Guzzi 850???? you must like horror....The gpz900 was the fisrt modern bike, and the first Kawasaki with a great frame, if you ride the Guzzi after the Kawa, you will think somthing's wrong, very wrong....Guzzi made great things in the past, but in the 80ies gave the worst of her. Unreliable, bad built, slow, bad handling. Often ugly.
talkin more serously, before dismantling the gpz engine I suggest you the find a Haynes manual: motorcycle engine can have some little tricks and if you don't know them, damage (or time waste) are very easy.
SO there is NO FOLLOW UP that i could find so that friggin blows !!!! thumbs down...
Quick sue this man. He is doing illegal cosplay.