I am fine with replacing all the AC major components when we do not know if the compressor has filled the system with metal particles. I was taught to test the overall system by feel, that is to say by temperature as pressure equals temperature, the higher the pressure, the higher the temp. If the Condensor is partially clogged with metal particles, the inlet will be very hot at 440 PSI and the outlet will be much cooler, say more than 20*F. The larger the temperature drop, the more restriction there is but we ought to give a fair inspection as to why the very high pressure. This could be lots of metal in the Drier also? Once the Condensor is out, at least blow shop air into the outlet and see if any metal will blow back out of the inlet, catch that on a white rag or some color that will allow a good inspection for metal. If you are very worried about metal then all the lines need to be chemically flushed as well since you are removing all the major parts. I will check out Part 2 also, thanks for all your knowledge in all your videos, cheers.
That a symptoms of clutch gap problem, the gab between the clutch and the compressor disc got bigger because of the wear and tear, and sometimes just adjusting that gap to the specification can make the compressor work for years again, or just replacing the clutch assembly and problem solved, but mechanic shops don't do that, because the process requires a lot of working hours and the it is not 100 percent guaranteed, replacing the whole compressor is the best way.
You are a very good mechanic with testing New systems with scan devices on the engine's O2/ sensors with the PC scanners, However I have been a Mechanic for over 50 years, I can write A bible on Issues, I started Doing A/HVACR From 1980 I am supper Experience With Ever Issues of to do with AC.work, To start with seen others who do such as you are doing with no proper training from someone to have on the job training from a Veteran Technician with lots of Experience for you to learn the Right way, Not by a stupid book with no common sense someone wrote.>( SO the real reason in Refrigeration that there are Gauges on you machine is to know what is wrong with the System that by recovering the Refrigerant the real name for Freon gas putting in new gas do not tell you what was wrong with AC, most likely was not working,) The best and proper way for reading Gauges is To knowing All the temperature of inside of car outside temp, Boiling point of Refrigerant Fan speeds if ducks are working, Main thing no blockage of anytype. High side discharge temp, evaporator temp, All condition/ This is what is why it is called Air Condition. Did you know it started so long ago back in BC, Normal Low side PSI, on a car fan on high should be 35 to 40 psi high side 150, 180, to 200,250 high side typical Air temperature, Yes just Recovering gases and putting gas back in can be very costly for customers, And not repair the problem at hand if there are restrictions. There are so many problems that also happen but being with experience to read the gauges tells me the problems when I first look at them, If you like more information you can TX me And ask how was HVAC, done BC,, Thank you have a Great day, And in Baltimore MD.( Rett university) Also EVT. The Dundalk community all had great Teaching skills with many teachers and Engineers That also were working on the Job Training back in my old days we all work together, Leaning Teaching others, Trades.
if in your shop is roughly 80f when you turn on the ac system and your head pressure goes up to over 400psi that should trigger your condenser fans to come on any compresor that can pump 400psi plus and and drop a suction pressure from 80psi to 40psi you either have a restriction or your condenser fans are mot comming on good luck.
The ac condenser and compressor aren’t as expensive as I expected but man I am guessing the labor is going to be a pretty penny. Very interesting indeed seeing as we have a 2011 sonota for a commuter car.
@HabitualButtonPusher The Labor on this project wasn't bad since it's pretty straight forward to replace these components, You'll see in Part 2 which is coming out soon!
What’s interesting is the compressor is making 450psi of pressure on the high side. However, it doesn’t drop the pressure on the low side/ suction side. Usually, with a bad compressor, both sides stay close to equal.
yep i do agree with that. i dont think it needed all those parts, but if you replace it all its got to work right, but if he will get the right tools for ac and study hvac . . he will look back at his ac skills and say wow its what he doesnt no is what hurts him with ac work and he is not the only one . hvac ac channel, tom lech is trying to help us but i think they wont except what they are doing is wrong
@zygi22 Metal shavings from the compressor caused that, the dryer on the condenser was plugged we saw it after we opened the dryer with a cut off wheel and I wish we showed on camera! and the compressor was indeed bad, but next time, we will make a more detailed video, thanks
a better way to think about it. if it cant suck it cant pump . nothing in nothing out ,right it appears to be doing both sucking and pumping. the proof its doing both is the fact of the hi side pressure. if it was not sucking you would not see the pumping to the hi side, if that makes sense.and if it could not pump the hi side up then the compressor (maybe faulty) to me it appears to be quit awesome pump to get that hi side pressure which means it has to be sucking something in. maybe i have flawed logic. have not seen it all, but that one is a new one on me. thats my logic and i stick to it
@@RATCHETMAN1001 Looks like you’re an hvac guy maybe you can help me out. I replaced my ac condenser with a dealer-aftermarket part. The low side is low to normal(~15psi). The high side, however, is also on the low end(100psi), and the pressure doesn’t want to climb higher than the 100-110psi. The manifold gauge is also fluttering. You think there’s a blockage in the condenser? Low quality part? That would make sense right?
The electric radiator fan should come on whenever AC is turned on. So that needs to be checked and fixed. Also if the compressor did fail internally, then the AC System needs to be flushed to remove debris before new parts are installed.
he replied and said the fan was not the problem, but like you said modern cars will turn it on in ac mode, especially when it sees hi pressure, but i was not their . i would have focused on that fan and showed that before and after repair
ok just going to try to help u. when u first hooked up you have a pressure temp relation ship so i can only assume your temp in your shop is 60 degrees, get you some pt charts, that will help u alot. if your shop was 75 80 degrees u would no its low for sure . if the temp in your shop was 60 and the car temp was the same and you see higher pressures then its over charged or its contaminated. if your machine does not have an identifier its like stds you may pull in contaminated freon in to your tank and then every car you charge from that tank will be contaminating the other cars you service. if it does have an identifier show its use please, and if you get a micron gauge you will no how dry u got the system, a 6k 10 k machine will not show you the dryness of the system. please check into this
also most vehs will turn the fan on with ac on and also when it sees hi side pressure . yep this is 2videos he might should take down.some people will find their mistakes and change and become better i no i use to do ac like him and others until someone showed me my short comings. i gladly love new knowledge and become better. but i bet he will never get a micron gauge and study and become better, and never admit he was wrong. but time will tell. i praise him for his other skills but ac is not his strength. he should not do ac videos until he gets more educated on the subject
@kabihog02 Yes! The condenser was plugged from metal shavings from the compressor, I wish we showed that part on camera, we opened the dryer on the condenser with a cut off the fan was just fine, I appreciate your input, we will make a more detailed video next time!!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair yes cut the condenser open next time so people can see the micro channels its like its a filter now and show them the flow of refrigerant. it comes in super heat and exits sub cooling at the bottom. if you had taken super heat and subcooling temps it will reveal blockages. and if the drier is in condenser remove it and see if is black that will show an overheated compressor as well . that drier is a filter for moisture only not debris. low refrigerant is what kills the compressor and the oil goes to the evaporator so compressor is starving for oil and the hi temp going in compressor overheats it. maybe off camera start looking at this and temps
sorry but if their was metal blocking the flow u would see the subcooling temps lower and should not see hi pressures from where your gauges are hooked up cause a restriction on hi side will lower the pressure after that restriction if they would put a port on hi side before and after the condenser it would be quick to measure the difference in pressure since they dont thats why superheat and subcooling temp measurement is your friend. ill quit rattling my mouth
hopefully he will review his video and see if the fans are not working you are going to get those readings. and in the second video he should have showed if the fan was running , cause if it still not working he could no way get the better pressures
@dave44052 I appreciate your input, in this car the dryer on the condenser was dirty, I found metal shavings in the dryer after I opened it with a cut off wheel, I should have shown it in the video but just take my word for it and the metal shavings came from the compressor, the compressor was indeed weak, the fan was just fine!
I am fine with replacing all the AC major components when we do not know if the compressor has filled the system with metal particles. I was taught to test the overall system by feel, that is to say by temperature as pressure equals temperature, the higher the pressure, the higher the temp. If the Condensor is partially clogged with metal particles, the inlet will be very hot at 440 PSI and the outlet will be much cooler, say more than 20*F. The larger the temperature drop, the more restriction there is but we ought to give a fair inspection as to why the very high pressure. This could be lots of metal in the Drier also? Once the Condensor is out, at least blow shop air into the outlet and see if any metal will blow back out of the inlet, catch that on a white rag or some color that will allow a good inspection for metal. If you are very worried about metal then all the lines need to be chemically flushed as well since you are removing all the major parts. I will check out Part 2 also, thanks for all your knowledge in all your videos, cheers.
@DuaneDonaldson My Pleasure! I appreciate your input!
I got a new mane for you King Master tech!!! You are so great what you do and thank you for all your videos I'm loving it.
@brucesavath1494 Thank you!
That a symptoms of clutch gap problem, the gab between the clutch and the compressor disc got bigger because of the wear and tear, and sometimes just adjusting that gap to the specification can make the compressor work for years again, or just replacing the clutch assembly and problem solved, but mechanic shops don't do that, because the process requires a lot of working hours and the it is not 100 percent guaranteed, replacing the whole compressor is the best way.
@abdouallahuniverse5689 Good!
You are a very good mechanic with testing New systems with scan devices on the engine's O2/ sensors with the PC scanners, However I have been a Mechanic for over 50 years, I can write A bible on Issues, I started Doing A/HVACR From 1980 I am supper Experience With Ever Issues of to do with AC.work, To start with seen others who do such as you are doing with no proper training from someone to have on the job training from a Veteran Technician with lots of Experience for you to learn the Right way, Not by a stupid book with no common sense someone wrote.>( SO the real reason in Refrigeration that there are Gauges on you machine is to know what is wrong with the System that by recovering the Refrigerant the real name for Freon gas putting in new gas do not tell you what was wrong with AC, most likely was not working,) The best and proper way for reading Gauges is To knowing All the temperature of inside of car outside temp, Boiling point of Refrigerant Fan speeds if ducks are working, Main thing no blockage of anytype. High side discharge temp, evaporator temp, All condition/ This is what is why it is called Air Condition. Did you know it started so long ago back in BC,
Normal Low side PSI, on a car fan on high should be 35 to 40 psi high side 150, 180, to 200,250 high side typical Air temperature, Yes just Recovering gases and putting gas back in can be very costly for customers, And not repair the problem at hand if there are restrictions. There are so many problems that also happen but being with experience to read the gauges tells me the problems when I first look at them, If you like more information you can TX me And ask how was HVAC, done BC,, Thank you have a Great day, And in Baltimore MD.( Rett university) Also EVT. The Dundalk community all had great Teaching skills with many teachers and Engineers That also were working on the Job Training back in my old days we all work together, Leaning Teaching others, Trades.
@tonysennetti5257 I appreciate it Sir, Thanks for your input
Hi, you could have also checked the gap on the clutch and readjust it, should be less than 0.3mm,
@Sipho-Msayi Yes but we don't adjust the clutch gap in our shop!
if in your shop is roughly 80f when you turn on the ac system and your head pressure goes up to over 400psi that should trigger your condenser fans to come on any compresor that can pump 400psi plus and and drop a suction pressure from 80psi to 40psi you either have a restriction or your condenser fans are mot comming on good luck.
@rolandcalix9210 Thanks
The ac condenser and compressor aren’t as expensive as I expected but man I am guessing the labor is going to be a pretty penny. Very interesting indeed seeing as we have a 2011 sonota for a commuter car.
@HabitualButtonPusher The Labor on this project wasn't bad since it's pretty straight forward to replace these components, You'll see in Part 2 which is coming out soon!
Creative as usual Deo , waiting for part 2 , appreciation , thanks
What’s interesting is the compressor is making 450psi of pressure on the high side. However, it doesn’t drop the pressure on the low side/ suction side. Usually, with a bad compressor, both sides stay close to equal.
yep i do agree with that. i dont think it needed all those parts, but if you replace it all its got to work right, but if he will get the right tools for ac and study hvac . . he will look back at his ac skills and say wow its what he doesnt no is what hurts him with ac work and he is not the only one . hvac ac channel, tom lech is trying to help us but i think they wont except what they are doing is wrong
@zygi22 Metal shavings from the compressor caused that, the dryer on the condenser was plugged we saw it after we opened the dryer with a cut off wheel and I wish we showed on camera! and the compressor was indeed bad, but next time, we will make a more detailed video, thanks
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I’m not criticizing. Just commenting. You do great work and make solid repair videos. 👍
a better way to think about it. if it cant suck it cant pump . nothing in nothing out ,right it appears to be doing both sucking and pumping. the proof its doing both is the fact of the hi side pressure. if it was not sucking you would not see the pumping to the hi side, if that makes sense.and if it could not pump the hi side up then the compressor (maybe faulty) to me it appears to be quit awesome pump to get that hi side pressure which means it has to be sucking something in. maybe i have flawed logic. have not seen it all, but that one is a new one on me. thats my logic and i stick to it
@@RATCHETMAN1001 Looks like you’re an hvac guy maybe you can help me out.
I replaced my ac condenser with a
dealer-aftermarket part. The low side is low to normal(~15psi). The high side, however, is also on the low end(100psi), and the pressure doesn’t want to climb higher than the 100-110psi. The manifold gauge is also fluttering.
You think there’s a blockage in the condenser? Low quality part? That would make sense right?
Kit's auto and truck repair, nice video, fantastic job, number 1 thank you my boss
@user-dl2ef8bw9f My Pleasure! My Friend Thanks
The electric radiator fan should come on whenever AC is turned on. So that needs to be checked and fixed. Also if the compressor did fail internally, then the AC System needs to be flushed to remove debris before new parts are installed.
he replied and said the fan was not the problem, but like you said modern cars will turn it on in ac mode, especially when it sees hi pressure, but i was not their . i would have focused on that fan and showed that before and after repair
@85rx7se Yes!
iam not a ac guy do my own work that machine is the bomb.
@winstonmartin6179 Yes! this AC Machine is pretty sweet!
Those numbers would suggest bad expansion valve , right? Not sure anything was wrong with that compressor. Its compressing.
@Swenser Thanks
Knowing ambient temp shouldnt you be able to know a figure for static pressure as a guide?
@Swenser Thanks
That was a good work, what is the name and model of that machine
@mobreyngambi1052 Thanks! the AC Machine is a Robinair 34788NI
ok just going to try to help u. when u first hooked up you have a pressure temp relation ship so i can only assume your temp in your shop is 60 degrees, get you some pt charts, that will help u alot. if your shop was 75 80 degrees u would no its low for sure . if the temp in your shop was 60 and the car temp was the same and you see higher pressures then its over charged or its contaminated. if your machine does not have an identifier its like stds you may pull in contaminated freon in to your tank and then every car you charge from that tank will be contaminating the other cars you service. if it does have an identifier show its use please, and if you get a micron gauge you will no how dry u got the system, a 6k 10 k machine will not show you the dryness of the system. please check into this
@user-hi3pt3mv2i Thank for your input, I appreciate it, I will look into a micron gauge and check it out!
Very good video friend :)
@JPDC911 Thank you!
Grasias
@martinarrieta248 My Pleasure!
Important to read my next Quote !!!
@tonysennetti5257 Good!
The reason why the high side pressure is to high because of the ciondenser fan is not working..
also most vehs will turn the fan on with ac on and also when it sees hi side pressure . yep this is 2videos he might should take down.some people will find their mistakes and change and become better i no i use to do ac like him and others until someone showed me my short comings. i gladly love new knowledge and become better. but i bet he will never get a micron gauge and study and become better, and never admit he was wrong. but time will tell. i praise him for his other skills but ac is not his strength. he should not do ac videos until he gets more educated on the subject
@kabihog02 Yes! The condenser was plugged from metal shavings from the compressor, I wish we showed that part on camera, we opened the dryer on the condenser with a cut off the fan was just fine, I appreciate your input, we will make a more detailed video next time!!
@user-hi3pt3mv2i I appreciate your input!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair yes cut the condenser open next time so people can see the micro channels its like its a filter now and show them the flow of refrigerant. it comes in super heat and exits sub cooling at the bottom. if you had taken super heat and subcooling temps it will reveal blockages. and if the drier is in condenser remove it and see if is black that will show an overheated compressor as well . that drier is a filter for moisture only not debris. low refrigerant is what kills the compressor and the oil goes to the evaporator so compressor is starving for oil and the hi temp going in compressor overheats it. maybe off camera start looking at this and temps
sorry but if their was metal blocking the flow u would see the subcooling temps lower and should not see hi pressures from where your gauges are hooked up cause a restriction on hi side will lower the pressure after that restriction if they would put a port on hi side before and after the condenser it would be quick to measure the difference in pressure since they dont thats why superheat and subcooling temp measurement is your friend. ill quit rattling my mouth
PROFICIENT
@nickayivor8432 Thanks!
I heard it Deo. 82.7 degrees. In other words... you got's nothing. lol!
@ekimbrough1413 Lol! Yeah NO AC on this car haha
Dirty condenser and/or fan issue nothing was wrong with the comp. Learn how an ac system works before you sell parts ..
agree i have left him lots of info he needs but will he try or ignore me
hopefully he will review his video and see if the fans are not working you are going to get those readings. and in the second video he should have showed if the fan was running , cause if it still not working he could no way get the better pressures
I was thinking possibly overcharge as well as potential fan issue. Would you agree?
Its possible, also possible that the machine didnt pull a vac and put noncondensables in, but more likely plugged condenser coil and a fan issue IMO
@dave44052 I appreciate your input, in this car the dryer on the condenser was dirty, I found metal shavings in the dryer after I opened it with a cut off wheel, I should have shown it in the video but just take my word for it and the metal shavings came from the compressor, the compressor was indeed weak, the fan was just fine!