New Solar Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump by EG4 - Hybrid AC/DC Grid & Off-Grid. Heat and Cool
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2022
- EG4 Mini Split AC: signaturesolar...
The EG4 Solar AC is one of the most innovative ductless heat pump/air conditioners available; reduce your electric bill and keep your home the temperature you want with this energy-efficient appliance. Featuring the ability to plug directly into solar panels, this system accepts DC power from their PV array without the need for an intermediary device during the day or can draw AC power from the grid at night or during overcast days. Users of the EG4 Solar Mini-Split AC can save money when compared to conventional central air conditioning systems. Pair this unit with a small string of solar panels to immediately begin heating and cooling your property.
Its compact size, sleek design, and new Plug-N-Cool technology make this EG4 Mini-Split a Do-It-Yourself project. Plug-C-Cool allows the EG4 Mini-Split to be easily installed, cooling and heating quickly in virtually any living space or workplace.
Unboxing and Installation on EG4's RUclips: • NEW Solar Mini Split A...
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Recommended Solar Inverters:
EG4 18KPV Hybrid Inverter | All-In-One Solar Inverter | 18000W PV Input | 12000W Output | 48V 120/240V
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3kW Off-Grid - EG4 3000EHV-48
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- Features: 3000W Output | 5000W PV Input | 500 VOC Input
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Shop Kits & Bundles: signaturesolar...
Need additional wiring or system components for your DIY Solar Project?
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To be honest though I finally pulled the trigger and purchased two (so far) 48 volt batteries and two of the 6500ex all in one. Just need to find the time to put everything together as well as investigate your high efficiency appliances.
Take care of Will Prowse he sold me on the equipment I currently have.
Lol
make a smaller version of this, would be great for van builds
I have been WAITING for something like this!
It would have been nice to know the energy consumption or recommended solar panel needed (capacity)
Cool, but can you get to a more DIY friendly place like the Mr. Cool units? I installed a 3 zone heat pump in my house three years ago. By far the most difficult part was getting an HVAC company to come out and charge my unit. 15 different companies wouldn't do business with me because I bought the unit off of the internet. The one that just barely did do business with me charged me as much as I payed for the unit! They did 6 solder joints and charged the unit... that's it! I would happily pay more for a unit that had precharged lines! When I do my next unit I'm definitely going with Mr. Cool for this reason.
I imagine it’s as diy as mr cool. While I haven’t looked through their material I can see by the pics and specs it’s the same Deye 24k unit I purchased last spring. My unit was delivered with a coolant charge matched for the 3m lineset shipped with it. However I was challenged because I needed 45ft of lines and that left me needing 1# of additional coolant. It was indeed a challenge to find someone who would do that.
This unit is pre-charged like most are. But only Mr Cool offers a warranty to a DIY installer. All others including this one state the warranty is valid only if a licensed HVAC tech pulls a vacuum on the system before releasing the pre-charged refrigerant.
@@AJ-qq3tm where did you buy the Deye unit from? I can’t seem to find em anywhere. I know they white label for a lot of companies but I’m looking for the better deal
@@chrisleahy7664 I ordered it from the other side of the planet. While the purchase price was 35% less then SS the air freight from DHL matched the cost. Their current offering is probably as good as it gets, which is why I plan on ordering 3 or 4 of theirs this week, that is if I can get through to someone that can answer a couple of questions. Therin lies the challenge.
@@McDIY Does the mr cool offer the direct solar connection. That is the main thing about these units.
Sure! come out with this great product the day after I installed another brand mini-split. The DC input feature is super-cool. I wish I could trade-in my Sennville now. I would buy a product that allowed me to hook-up panels directly to my existing mini-splits.
I have known about them for years. Hotspot energy has had them for a long time. I think these are branded units. I have not called to confirm. I have been waiting and hoping that someone makes a bigger unit along with more than one head. I would like to use this in my new 900 square foot build, if using the 24k model I need a 18k head in the main area and one 3k in the bed room and one 3k in the bathroom. If they were to have a 36k model I could then do 6k in bedroom and bathroom and 24k in the main area.
Right now the 24k modes can have a max of upwards of 3kwh of solar. I need to confirm if this is an exact number, Factoring in the winter lower wattage I want to make sure I can gain more than enough solar during the winter. This unit at max is at or around 2kwh for the heat pump. 3k might not be enough power if I factor in 50% power consumption.
I am just hear reading comments to see if there is anything new.
installed three units so far, out of stock until September...need one more for the garage - works great!
Scott do you have all of them connected to the same solar panels?
Excellent work! Can you guys make one that is a Window Unit?
A 6,000 btu u shaped window unit with 2-3 panels would be awesome! 150ish volts voc inputs should power it.
👍👍this is great, more vids please on installing , charging (HVAC) etc . thank you.
There's an installation walkthrough video on the EG4 Electronics RUclips channel
Nice work Mason
Awesome air conditioning unit. Will promote this to everyone
Request a demo of the PV install, Bonus points if its the 12000k hybrid. It would be nice to see how to charge the unit and take advantage of the pre-charge.
Good stuff right here, looking to get the 12000 unit. Thanks
Very cool tech, will be looking into this…
Would it be possible to install it in parallel to the pv panels on the dc side of my inverter?
Go all in and import air to water monoblock CO2 heat pumps. They are the future and the most efficient in any climate region.
I would love to see 2 EG4 3000 watt units in split phase and see what they can run. thanks guys
I have run (ran?) 2 EG4 3000's in split phase. Ran two 120v window AC units and one 240v window AC unit as well as a small refrigerator and lighting(at the same time). I was using four EG4 server rack batteries. I posted a video of some power fluctuations I was getting. SS says the new firmware should solve the issue but I have not had time to load it as I have not been using the 3000s since I upgraded to the 6500s. I am currently hooking the 3000s up again and testing a new 150ah server rack battery. Will update when able.
@@McDIY very eager to hear your experience with the 6500 (EX? 120v unit, so you might install 2 in parallel?). The multi-month issue with Error 61 really could use a current review. (Was the issue really battery communication is thwarted by lack of battery-to-battery bonding?). Thanks for your post.
@@corba197 I am running the 6500s in 120/240 split phase instead of simply 120. I have not heard anything yet about battery-to-battery bonding being the issue. Is there a video or detailed description somewhere? SS just sent the proprietary data cable to download the latest firmware, when our schedules allow I will install it ant test.
Request for Information to both Signature Solar AND EG4. Please advise what compatible concealed ducted Indoor units are interoperable with EG4's Hybrid 24? I know your competitors are all already offering concealed ducted indoor units to their 24k Inverter series. Yes, I understand the Indoor unit is smart to sense when to start the blower that is also converting to DC voltage. Thanks for this video, I see you got great You Tube reviews.
will you make them smaller for vans and rv?
Other companies do.
What's the minimum and maximum pv voltage you can put on them
80v minimum - 380v max
I just bought one. How to I change my unit to desplay fahrenheit?
Same- remote says how on the back but it doesn’t work. Also trying to find mc4 connections because I only see line in
Arr these DIY as the Mr. Cool brand or do they need a refrigeration tech to pull vacuum and load refrigerant?
I have the same question, checked to see if it has already been asked.
The refrigerant is pre-loaded in the unit, but we do require a tech to pull a vacuum to commission your system, or to at least sign off on it if you do it yourself to maintain warranty.
@@eg4electronics So not DIY as Mr Cool is. Thank you for the quick response.
@@McDIY technically the diy mr cool should be vacuumed too. If you want it to last longer.
@@aaronkatzen5973 I am able to vacuum any of them. But only Mr Cool doesn’t void the warranty if not vacuumed by a Licensed HVAC Technician.
I have one (12,000 btu, 120v hybrid) and it runs fine on alternating current. For the last week it’s been running with alternating current off and going on DC alone from 4 panels, 400 watts each. I don’t recommend running it this way. It’s probably best if it’s also connected to AC because you have to reconnect the App almost every time it looses power, though sometimes it does reconnect automatically. The app is another thing altogether. Contrary to what Mason is suggesting here... I don’t believe this is an EG4 engineered product, I think they’ve just branded it as their own. The unit looks identical to those made by Deye in China so all the Kudos should go to them. The documentation that goes with the unit seems to back my thinking up. It’s poorly translated and lacks all the end user details that one would want. There are no explanations of the icons in the remote & app and very little in the way of what they actually do or don’t do. In my opinion, this would be better if it were Blue tooth controlled and didn’t have to go through the cloud to talk to the unit. I’m guessing that the lag in the PV info is because it’s going up through a wifi network, and then back down to your phone, and then back up and back down. Also.... the ONLY info the app gives about what’s actually happening with your PV array is Watts (and even that lags or is completely inaccurate) ... you’re left kinda blindfolded as to what’s going on with your unit and under what conditions to expect it to run. I will admit, my wifi setup is probably a short coming in my setup and may be the source of some of my lag. It’s just a Mint Mobile android phone sharing a hotspot so it may be a problem. If you have an EG4 hybrid setup on regular home wifi, I’d like to hear if it’s working well for you.
I question why it needs 'line' power to begin with. My thought before I saw your comment was if the unit was connected to line voltage it would be damn hard to differentiate between what is really happening. You did the unthinkable so therefore, 'there ya go'! I don't think the lag your experiencing is a accident, shall we say......design?
There have been people running these mini's on vans with two extra batteries on panel's for recharge for several years now. The secret to getting the battery storage to last is "Never turn them off or let the unit satisfy". The inverter compressor technology runs the compressor on dc three phase converted voltage and the compressor "ramps" and throttles on load demand. Your welcome.
40 yrs hvac trade/contractor/business owner-operator.
@@snurb48is that good or bad?
@@carlosreyes6448 I shouldn't be bagging on this guys product. I'm just getting sick and tired of promises made by all this 'green' turd stuff. Now watching the video again this guy did not promise the unit didn't need AC power. Actually I heard correct the second time He points that out clearly. I personally don't see the big hoopla if this thing can't run without AC backup. What's the big deal, connect two car batteries with a charger and this unit will make it hours on that supply alone. As long as it "does not cycle", so you have to meat locker it while on batteries but it will work! I thought if this can run direct connect, why the hell do you need AC? For the expense of panels, inverter, converter, charging, you have to run it twenty damn years to make the pay off. They pull so little wattage is my point. Why spend so much on solar then? Consumption is tiny..................IF all you need is 12k btu. As far as the apps, quit freek'n hovering over the damn thing and look for performance! What the hells the fascination of watching PV to Watt ratio, EER, SEER, Power Factors, Watt per hour etc. PUt the freek'n phone away and live a life for crying out loud!
Can I use a floor mount head unit from another brand with this compressor unit as long as they are rated for the same capacity.
I like the solar input of this unit but I don't like the looks of the high wall mounted head unit.
Thx
Best 32” Roku
What's the SEER?
Yaaay thumbs up for me. First to comment 😁😎
Hey great work I'm in Canada I like to buy two of these
Everyone wants a DC direct mini split so it can run directly off batteries make it happpen 🙏
It sounds promising, but I just heard from someone who has one and the heat doesn't work at all. That is the only part I need to work. Also, I could not find anywhere in the specs or other data how many watts it consumes.
Turns out the guy who claimed his heater didn't work does NOT have this brand or model. 🙄 I am relieved, because this sounds perfect for my ADU.
The heat pump works great check it out on my channel
I see this as a great option for someone who has Utility Power and dedicated solar panels for the AC unit. But for someone who already has solar panels, inverter and batteries I think using a standard mini split AC unit would be more beneficial and versatile. Am I missing something?
You've got a great point, D Mc. You would benefit most from this unit by plugging PV into it directly. If you already have an existing solar system and don't plan to plug PV directly into the unit, technically it's not as efficient as a normal AC mini-split. However, if you did decide to incorporate some PV directly to the unit, the free power used from PV during the day would make up for the less efficient power usage at night bringing it up to snuff with some of the higher seer rated AC mini-splits out there.
Thanks for your response 😊
Is 10x 300 Watt enough for cloudy days (12K BTU) ? I usually don't need heat when the sun is shining.
Can I use 2 - 12k btu units connected to the same solar array under 380voc?
If this is so fantastic, why does it need to be connected to 'Line' Power?
This doesn't have batteries so the line power is for when the sun isn't shining.
Are there bigger versions? I need 6 heads for my home
12k and 24k BTU units are available. It is very common for people to use multiple units in their homes for maximum energy efficiency. For example, at night you would only use the mini splits in the bedrooms and leave the rest turned off until morning. A central unit doesn't give you that flexibility unless you have an expensive commercial-grade unit with room-to-room flow control.
Is the 12000 btu version available for the EU market in 240v?
👏
what is the dimensions of the interior unit (12000 btu)? I cannot find it in the docs.
Indoor unit (WxHxD): 33x8x12in Outdoor unit (WxHxD): 32x22x13in.
OMG I WANT THIS
👍
I see 4 panels installed with this system, what was the wattage of the 4 you hooked in series with these
I have asked them how many watts is needed but they say it does not matter you just need 80volts. So really dont know what is needed I emailed them asking if I could go buy 10 x 10w 12v panels and will that work but they would not reply. I would guess needing something of at least 600watts but they wont give a number.
@@c82us max voltage if I recall is 360v and 3kwh. You can check their site and read the specs diagram to see what the unit can accept.
@@kameljoe21 I understand what the max volts are everything electrical runs in watts overall.
12v X 100a = 1200w
24v X 50a = 1200w
120v X 10a = 1200w
360v X 3.33a = 1200w
Makes a big difference on size of wire and fuse I would need.
Everything else you look at has some combination of 2 if not all 3.
no need for unboxing video, just show how much ac and dc power it uses
The only thing they have told me in both email and phone call is 80V Watts does not matter.
@@c82us The specs are on the site. Just need to read more. Its all listed there. 360v 3kwh and the max wattage the heat and cool use is something like 2kwh give or take.
Ayeeeeee
how all my inventions are stolen right out of my head?
because you keep them in your head to long... lol it's not easy to bring products to market. ;-)
@@unionse7en you’re absolutely right tbh
How many panels does it need
You need at least 80VDC going into the unit in order for it to recognize the PV power. That will usually be 2-3 solid panels.
If I recall max voltage at 360v and 3kwh of solar to max out. If you live in a cold area you will want to be close to max as you can be to have 100% power.
@@SignatureSolar
But that does not tell us how much power and size of wire
80v x 5a = 400w
360v x 5a = 1800w big difference in size of array.
Plus let's put it this way
Everything electrical runs in watts overall.
12v X 100a = 1200w
24v X 50a = 1200w
120v X 10a = 1200w
360v X 3.33a = 1200w
Makes a big difference on size of wire and fuse I would need.
You can only size wire and fuse by knowing amps.
Everything else you look at has some combination of 2 if not all 3.
What mppt you recommended ?
It looks like no MPPT required.. you’re plugging solar panels directly into the unit to make it run
@@iRollWithPunches yeah
I was looking at a hotspot 48v mini split (would just run off my eg4 batteries) .. just curious what kind of mppt .. coz 80v+ it kinda odd voltage
@@xyamom your solar panel string voltage will need to meet specifications. no mppt
@@SignatureSolar in your manual it showes a mppt when using batteries unless the red/wires are met to be ac?
Too bad it can’t run down to 42vdc so that it will work direct from a battery pack too. Would be ideal to have a pure dc version.
There is such a thing as a 48v DC mini split; maybe EG4 will add one?
@@chevrofreak the other better alternative is that we get over the 48v thing and go to 96v which is still under the point of regulation for DC and this would run fine because t works from 80-380v.
And then our inverters and everything else get much more efficient too.
Sadly we don’t have 32s BMSes yet.
@@snoberry643 you’d use solar running all day to charge the battery of course and then it would stay efficient day and night instead of flipping over to your inverter at night and wasting 15% of your battery power in so doing. (The claims of inverter efficiency are fiction)
The point is that this is useless off grid as setup right now or it goes back to dc to ac to dc conversion which is less than 85% efficient at night which is silly.
Especially since internally it’s taking 240v ac in ac mode, applying power factor correction and boosting it to 380v anyhow.
Ideally eg4 inverter/chargers could have a 380vdc output that isn’t isolated running at 98% efficiency to power DC loads like this. The result is a vast improvement in efficiency because there’s no dc/ac/dc cycle. (And support 96v battery packs since that’s still considered ULV by the government and safe up to 120vdc and since they’re all UL anyhow there’s really no reason for even that limit)
Basically all AC a/c, heat pumps,refrigerators, washers, heat pump dryers, computers and more will run perfectly off of 380vdc (computer you have to flip the power supply switch to 240v). Why? Because they all use DC motors internally so they can be variable and more efficient so they’re entirely DC internally. All resistive heat doesn’t care either. (Ie you can easily plug an oven into 380DC and it works fine because it derives 12v for the electronics from 240vac which with power factor correction is 380vdc before it goes through the fly back. ). Even a microwave is DC internally before it generates the waves and induction cooktops are DC and then use fets like a BLDC motor to control the power. Only old stuff has any AC motors and isn’t already converting AC to DC.
It’s really time to end the insanity of AC power generation on solar (still good reasons for AC on the grid) since virtually everything in a house is actually DC and converts AC to DC very inefficiently. The average house could save 10-15% (conservatively given that most USB bricks are 79% efficient) of their electricity simply by having USBC for low voltage and 380vdc for all high draw stuff with a highly efficient AC/DC bus converter at the meter/transformer (or replace the transformer entirely with an AC/DC isolated step down from 11.2kV to 380VDC and the. Optionally adding a 380vdc battery in the home for backup.
@@jameshancock well said. 380vdc would be awesome.
@@chevrofreak keep your eyes peeled 👀