Lovely work, that's a lifetime keeper tool that you could pass to your apprentice or son / daughter. thanks for showing your skills & a big hello from great britain
Lovely work. My Father in Law apprenticed as a Cabinet Maker in the 1930's I helped him restor some old chisels, when he ringed them after fitting he soaked the end in water for a few days and let them dry brfore waxing them. That ring would never move again!
It is not a question of can but how much effort one is willing to put into it. My grandfather apprenticed to his uncle who was a blacksmith in the early 1900s. He had an ax that they had laminated a new cutting edge on to the head that he had done after the harder steel had been honed away.
The tang on the chisel head pushes the wood out as it goes in the hole against the collar. This holds the chisel in firmly via friction. When he hits the handle at the end to do this he is using the mass/weight of the metal against the wood, you don't need to secure the chisel head - wooden planes are adjusted in a similar way.
Zen and the art of chisel maintenance! How old would this chisel be? I'm sure it was made using the best Japanese metallurgy. I admire Japanese workmanship. I have a lot of Japanese guitars. Thanks!
Nice work. Might have to get one of those diamond stones for my Tormek to flatten the back of my chisels and plane blades, that usually takes the longest. Question, how long did it take you to flatten the back on the fine diamond stone? The coarse one might have been a lot faster?
To answer myself: Tormek's 'Fine' diamond stone is still only 600 grit, so pretty rough and good for flattening. Not sure why they call it a fine stone?
He used the DC-250, which is about 360 grit. The "C" in DC is for coarse (DF is fine meaning 600, DE is extra fine meaning 1200). Also you can get CBN-wheels down to 80 grit (got one of those and they work super for this) which are not from Tormek. There are shops that have loads of attachements for the Tormek machines, like felt or leather wheels, special holders and so on.
@@pfeilchen He used the DF-250 actually. CBN wheels are a good option too yea. Curious, how much faster is your 80 grit CBN wheel for flattening the back of chisels than say a DC-260 360 grit?
@@johnfstockland You are right, i misread that one. The CBN 80 is crazy fast, also CBNs don't need the anti-corosive add-on in the water. I had used it to restore a heavily damged and extremely old planer-blade and occasionally someone brings me a blade, that needs to be redone from scratch.
Fine art. Beautiful. Intelligent.
Your great effort produced another excellent tool. I enjoy your videos very much and I am in awe of your skills.
Thank you very much 😊
Very nice. I especially like the full round branch for the handle.
Thanks, I think it adds a lot of character! 👍
Jedes Video von diesem Kanal ist ein FILMISCHER Meisterwerk!!!
Super! 👍❤
Very nice chisel shape too👌Thanks for sharing 🙏
Lovely work, that's a lifetime keeper tool that you could pass to your apprentice or son / daughter. thanks for showing your skills & a big hello from great britain
Nicely done, thanks or showing us
Lovely work. My Father in Law apprenticed as a Cabinet Maker in the 1930's I helped him restor some old chisels, when he ringed them after fitting he soaked the end in water for a few days and let them dry brfore waxing them. That ring would never move again!
Thanks 😊
大工道具の修復や仕込みの動画大好きです。見漁って自分でやってみることを繰り返すと発見がたくさんあります！
Nice Umehiro chisel! always wanted to try chisels from this brand.
Yes, I’ve been curious about these too!
Great job Dylan!!!
Thanks 😊
Nice job!!
It is not a question of can but how much effort one is willing to put into it. My grandfather apprenticed to his uncle who was a blacksmith in the early 1900s. He had an ax that they had laminated a new cutting edge on to the head that he had done after the harder steel had been honed away.
I don't understand the last step. What is fastening the chisel to the handle? Is it the shape of the hole at the top, how does it not fall?
The tang on the chisel head pushes the wood out as it goes in the hole against the collar. This holds the chisel in firmly via friction. When he hits the handle at the end to do this he is using the mass/weight of the metal against the wood, you don't need to secure the chisel head - wooden planes are adjusted in a similar way.
Zen and the art of chisel maintenance! How old would this chisel be? I'm sure it was made using the best Japanese metallurgy. I admire Japanese workmanship. I have a lot of Japanese guitars. Thanks!
素晴らしい!
I can watch this guy work all day. Awesome.
Thank you! 😊
うちの実家もたくさんの錆びたノコギリ、カンナ、ノミがあります😅素人が研ぐには難しそうですね😂
裏押しが若干ビミョーですが鋼もちゃんと残っててまだ研げば十分使える鑿ですね。
You should heat the collar before fitting and let cool on wood
Would have liked to see you using it.
What do you use for flattening the stone? Name, producucer, size, etc. I wish to buy one. Thank you
This one is from nanohone
Nice work. Might have to get one of those diamond stones for my Tormek to flatten the back of my chisels and plane blades, that usually takes the longest. Question, how long did it take you to flatten the back on the fine diamond stone? The coarse one might have been a lot faster?
To answer myself: Tormek's 'Fine' diamond stone is still only 600 grit, so pretty rough and good for flattening. Not sure why they call it a fine stone?
He used the DC-250, which is about 360 grit. The "C" in DC is for coarse (DF is fine meaning 600, DE is extra fine meaning 1200). Also you can get CBN-wheels down to 80 grit (got one of those and they work super for this) which are not from Tormek. There are shops that have loads of attachements for the Tormek machines, like felt or leather wheels, special holders and so on.
@@pfeilchen He used the DF-250 actually. CBN wheels are a good option too yea. Curious, how much faster is your 80 grit CBN wheel for flattening the back of chisels than say a DC-260 360 grit?
@@johnfstockland You are right, i misread that one. The CBN 80 is crazy fast, also CBNs don't need the anti-corosive add-on in the water. I had used it to restore a heavily damged and extremely old planer-blade and occasionally someone brings me a blade, that needs to be redone from scratch.
i think you need to coat it in blueing solution to prevent flash rust
Yes was planning to do that but ended up liking the look of it as is. Will see how it goes and blue it if necessary.
Wow
And the answer is yes
Nope, it can't be restored. Why ASK? When you know the answer already. Clickbait.
It was a rhetorical question. We all knew the answer and eagerly anticipated the outcome.
Troll much? Jesus.