Step-By-Step Installing Casing On An Interior Door
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2023
- I just finished hanging this door at the warehouse.
Now let’s install the casing.
I start by making marks on the upper left and right side of the jamb a ¼” out for the reveal.
Then I measure and cut the first leg at a 45-degree angle.
I like to install the piece that goes against the hinges first.
I use my 18-gauge brad nailer to shoot 1¼” brads through the casing into the door jamb.
Then I switch to my 15-gauge trim gun to nail the casing to the wall.
The ¼” reveal keeps the casing away from the hinges.
Next, I cut a 45 on the left side of my header piece.
Instead of measuring the length of the header piece- I just make a mark on the right side where the reveal is.
I use glue on the joints for a strong bond.
Now I measure the leg on the right-side and cut it to length at a 45-degree angle.
Sometimes I have to play with this cut making it a 46 or a 44 til I get it to fit just right.
Because I had to pull the casing out at the top to make a tight joint, I slid a shim behind it before nailing it off.
This sometimes is needed when the wall is out of plumb.
The gap on the side will get caulked to the wall.
Let me know if you think I nailed it. @hausplans
#build #howto #carpentry #trim #trimwork #casing #interiordoor #construction #diy #contractor 
Хобби
Nailed it, literally. A bunch of times, actually.
😂👍
I think you did a swell job bud
Okay but, is that 1x4 trim? Unless I'm doing casing I just do square cuts. Why would you need to miter it?
Don't you mean Brad, nailed it?
I don't get it
As a painter, I should say you should always cut your trim corners at an angle slightly MORE than 45 degrees, that way they always come to a nice, sharp point, and any gap will be to the inside angle, which is much more easily hid and filled with caulk. But if you do it the opposite way, any gap will create a twin horn effect on what should be a single point, and even if you fill it with caulk, it will have a blunt look to it.
Good POINT. Such a nice TIP.
@@TheSilentMajorityNation- I see what you did there.😆
Good point! I’ll remember this
Not with casing you can do this on crown and base molding that have an outer corner
No, you cut a 45° and glue it using miter clamps.
I do almost everything the same down to the nail lengths but just a couple little tips. To start do both your legs first. That way you can cut your header slightly long and double check the 45s. Make your adjustments and cut to length. The issue with doing a leg last is that any adjustments you make to the angle will make it short and it will sit up off the finished floor. If the floors not finished then it doesnt matter which order you trim it in. Also, you can avoid using the shim on out of plumb walls by rolling your miters with a very small compound angle. I always say the difference between a good carpenter and a great one is 2-3 cuts. I know it's tough to change our methods once we're used to doing things a certain way but it's worth trying both of these things out. Not every project requires the extra love but you want to have the knowledge in the back pocket for the high end stuff at least. Love the vids sir.
I've done those few extra steps a few times and nobody seemed to notice except the guys I was working with noticed I took longer than most other guys. I really don't think the customer ever really notices or cares about some of these details. At least the customers I work for in my area don't .
@@michael2943 Unfortunately, good work does tend to go under the radar because it's simply what it's supposed to be but it's a fact that people are 10x more likely to leave a bad review than a good one, so better safe than sorry. My biggest remodel to date is $400k and I got that job because, on a different job for the same family, one of the daughters fiances noticed I had used biscuits in just basic flat stock window trim and said they shouldn't use anyone else. The $400k jobs neighbor noticed my work and referenced me to his sister in law for a $330k remodel, and then another 2 house flips for the same family. Over $1.2M worth of work because of a biscuit that only took an extra 30 seconds. In your case it sounds like you do big enough jobs to have multiple trim guys so maybe consider pre-assembling trim. Cut guy, assembly guy, install guy. Doesn't get much quicker than that.
I take these extra steps when it’s a stain, wood and it’s not getting painted. door is in an auto body shop so we’re trying to keep the speed up.👍
@@michael2943you're probably underpricing your services then. The customers that value every little detail done correctly are the ones that can afford to pay top dollar. Keep working on your craft and ignore the people who tell you speed is more important than quality. Eventually, with the level of pride in your work you bring if you're not there already you'll be able to choose who you take jobs for.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpentergreat idea and congratulations 👏
Just an observation that I've made over the last few years, if you hold your brad nailer perpendicular to the trim, there is a much lower chance of a brad shining out through the inside of the jamb because of the beveled end. Hope that helps someone.
Correct 👍
@@hausplansthen why didn't you do it lol
Wym perpendicular
@@nathanwelsh2002 Hold the nailer at a right angle to the edge of the trim, as opposed to parallel with the edge of the trim.
Very thorough and concise. I love how you specify the tools. That helps those who want to learn your trade. That's the purpose of the video. I am a contractor and I approve this message.
I appreciate that!
If you don't know the tools prior to your project then you shouldn't be doing the project. Educate yourself before ANYTHING! This isnt a how to diy video, it's a look how I do it video with tips and tricks 🤷
Most fail to offer a useful instructional video in this truncated format, but you managed to do it well. Nicely done sir.
Thank you kindly!
6" combination square makes marking margins easy
I got a 12" Ive been using and it does help a lot! I'd made jigs but they end up getting lost.. 🤣
Just eyeballing it makes it easier.
@@marklyons1541 nah, eyeballing margins is for hacks. Take one extra minute to make it perfect
@@benische maybe for 1 or 2 high end openings in a very conspicuous location, but if you're doing a whole house full if you can't eyeball 1/4" you might be a bit of a hack, anyway.
@@marklyons1541 Maybe one day you'll be good enough to work in houses where perfection is expected.
Caulk & paint makes a carpenter what he ain't.
My step father always said a similar quote. Puddy and paint makes it what it ain't.
Grinder and paint make me a welder I ain't.
You can’t help it if the wall isn’t straight.
Do your best, fill the rest
A former boss of mine used to say "pound to fit, paint to match".
Little trick,hold that 18 gauge nail gun the other way and the nails won't have the chance of curling out the door jamb. 30+ years experience doing trim
Feels right to share the experience, no?
What year into the 30+ did you figure that out lol
And the angled 15 awg is held in line.
Yep. That’s just right for paint grade casing. I’d hire you.
I always do the top piece first so you have 45 degrees on both sides then you adjust the bottoms of the side pieces
Best way to do it. Way quicker
Sounds like the easiest way possible
Yeah, I do it that way and I work full time. This way makes life way easier. Good comment
Do you keep the same reveal from top to bottom or is that how you make your adjust😢
@@cr81hq789456 If your trim is off that much that means your door frame is out of square
I like a 3/8 reveal to prevent hing and strike rub.
Also, with the brad gun always have the gun sideways vs vertical. If you’re going to have a shiner (nail curl out) it will be when the gun is vertical.
I like the 1/4 " cause it's the thickness of a pencil
You can shim under the peace when you cut it to get the exact bevel without have to think about it. You won't need the shim behind the corner if do it this way
Nice tip.
I don't understand. How would you know what thickness to cut the shim before installing casing? Ty
@@corysturgis6660
Make the frame plumb and leveled then install shims maintaining 3/16" gap between frame and door.
@@renaissance2005 ty
I usually measure the top piece, hang that first and once it’s up, precut my miters on the legs, flip them over and mark them, I can trim a whole door with one measurement
That is the basic idea, efficient enough for me. I generally start with the top piece, and put a single nail into the door frame, then I fit the sides nailing the same single one in the center at the door frame. Then the corners, then the rest
Yep
Im a heavy diesel mechanic that loves doing diy building projects. I’m so fascinated by the tricks that allows a large margin of error at the start, but each step along the way tightens it all up to the end finish that looks square and hides everything.
Looks great dude!
Thanks!
Little tip I learned is to put a shim underneath your casing while you cut it so it creates a back cut leaving your face with the most meat. This prevents you from shining it away from the wall causing a giant caulk joint
Yeah I do the same you shim it on saw to get the correct compound angle
We do this, but no shim. We use it hands to do it so you can assist to the exact angles and never to match the gap that you need to cut to. Rolling case. Sometimes you gotta do I've way and other times it's another and it's just not super to use your have to rotate either way. But with custom cabinets and trim there's no room for caulking yup fill gaps in joints...
Me too great advice
Drill bit the size of the gap, laid under the work on the saw, gets it pretty dern close.
My grandpa and uncle Eddie taught me to give the joint a little undercut with the blockplane.a nice tight joint.Ps glue both surfaces
I do not like from 45 degree door frames because often they start to warp and bend from joint location, but that is because I live on location where Air moisture is very high. Your Job with The frame is Top knot!. 👍
I prefer to do the header moulding first then mark cut the mitres first then mark the length from the actual fixed header tip of mitre.
Then glue the mitre with super glue for a perfect tight mitre.
You nailed it alright
As a trim shooter in a modular home factory we'd measure out the header, cut two 45's on either end and shoot it first. Our cutter would have the sides already cut with one 45 and long on the other end. To get them to fit perfectly with the header (top piece of door casing) we'd turn the cut side upside down (the 45 would be touching the floor with the long uncut end up top) wed lay that long end up against the top of the header and make a pencil mark then hand them to our saw guy who would then proceed to cut the marked ends flat and straight. This made for a better fit and no need for fine tuning or measuring while trying to cut a 45. The casings always fit perfectly and we were able to shoot an entire house in 20 minutes. This may not work for everyone and everything but it worked for us.
That's in a perfect controlled environment.
I've lived in a few modular homes and I've worked in a helluva lot more, and "perfectly", is one word I would never use to describe the trim work, old or new. Perhaps that's because it only takes 20 minutes to shoot the whole thing?
Over the years I worked for a few different carpenters, and builders, and we always ran header trim first, then the legs. And we always maintained our 45’s and square cut the bottoms for height. Always came out great for us, and this was old remodel work, and new construction as well.
This is how I do it as well, but I'm prepared to roll the miter or add/remove a degree off of 45 for oddball door jams/drywall.
NAILED IT," I'M A PAINTER AND I APPROVE OF THIS METHOD".
👍💪💯
Right on!
I do both my sides and when i have a peice small enough i use it for the top, and cut that slightly bigger to see how my angles match. Adjust accordingly......
Wouldn't get paid for it where I come from
Mitre Bond is your best friend, glue it together, then put it up, as long as your measurements are spot on, it will be perfect. You will have much tighter joints!!
Agreed.
Finally somome elce who does this
@@smyteyouall8256 best part is, I used it on wood, composite, PVC and fibreboard, works like a charm!!!
Mitre bond's the way to go
I also agree. After a short time the glued joints are super strong so there's no chance of them breaking while handling.
Personally I cut my legs first so I can cut two things at once and then I cut my head so I don't have to keep walking back and forth to the saw. Especially in large scale this is very beneficial.
That looks great if you put the legs on either side first, then cut the head piece a quarter of an inch long center It between the legs. Look at what you need to do to make the miter fit. Adjust your saw and make it fit beautifully.😊
Old memories, I use to trim 2 new homes a day, love the work until I got back surgery.
👍👍
Be careful crossing arms while using a slider.
A slider?? You mean a compound saw??
@@justicemcdonald2939compound sliding mitre
He means a sliding compound miter saw and he makes a good point.
crossing arms?
@@rhettlyerly545 it's called a compound sore All compound source slide a miter saw or a chop saw does not slide
The painter will appreciate your work for sure!
👍
I did not see any screws, so you nailed it
Your method is good, left to right, last cut is always the straight cut bottom to floor.
You can improve your miter joints by underscoring a wee bit.
Since you asked 😇
10/10
Wow, thanks!
Looking good!
Thanks!
I framed a wall for myself i didnt even need shims for the frame but that shim behind the 45 cut to make it flush is an awesome tip for this diy'er
I definitely do both upright’s first then the header but what you did make a sense !
Nice! This is a skillful & professional job. It is neatly executed and well done. 😎👍
I’ve been doing this for 32 years, your method is good, no need to swap guns and try under cutting one mitre by sticking your pencil under the architrave when cutting.
Finally, someone who uses shims correctly
Thanks
Glad to know I've been hanging trim correctly 👊
👍
Not bad, to save time when installing multiple doors, we pre-installed the casing on the frame, shim from behind. Quick, tight
Great video !! Work smarter, not harder. I will never do my way again. Thanks. .....
Oh yeah .... NAILED IT !!! 😉
Thanks 👍
That's one way to do it, nothing wrong! I like to lay my doors down, hinge side up, and trim it on the ground. Then I install it, similar to how you install a split jam. Nail it in place, eyeballing the reveal, shim the hinges and the strike. Sometimes I prefab the trim on the other side, set it in place, and nail it. The more work done on the floor, or benches, the better.
Thanks for sharing, the one thing I can’t stress enough as there’s lots of ways to do these jobs!
Yes. We watched you nail it!!!
Yeah, trim doors in warehouses.
The inside of closets are another good place to practice.
US Americans and “building” will forever be meme material for the whole world to enjoy 😂
I saw a guy that pre-assembled the 3 pieces with ca glue and then applied to the door. Perfect meters. Flush trimmer with a spacer block to finish at the floor.
I use Azek for outdoor/garage entry door framing. Eliminates any warping from moisture
Smart
@@hausplans you have to inspect the boards with a microscope bc of metal strapping damage/poor molds/cuts….that damage needs bond-o, sanding, priming and is extra work. Hopefully it lasts in the UV light which I never thought about until now
Nailed it. Nice to see someone that knows how to shim a door.
Thanks
Door builder here, that pretty good trim work. Probably would've run Into trouble if it had been 3180 or 356 trim using the pin nailer.
I use a compound miter saw. When cutting the 45 s I back cut it 2-3 % the face is tighter that way.
I have the same two senco Brad nailers great guns. I have looked at the Milwaukee battery ones and my brother has them both they work fine but not nearly as fast. Maybe one day the battery will be up to par with pneumatic nailers but not today.
Yeah, I’m old-school I still like the pneumatic ones as well. The battery guns are heavy.
Yes , you nailed with two different sizes of nails😃
Excellent work. As a former superintendent for a production builder, it was hard finding good trim guys.
Much appreciated
Good job,the glue is key.3/16 ths is a sexier reveal
All this perfection going onto painted OSB wall, love it!!
👍
I was taught to align my brad nailer 90 degrees to the length of material being nailed because of the tendancy of the brads to be deflected out the face of the trim piece and not plough straight into the trim pieces. This deflection often causes the brad to exit the trim and have to be removed leaving a hole to be filled, which causes more work to have to be done.
I used to temporary nail so i could make tiny adjustments to the legs to make the mitres come together. Btw you nailed it.
You did more than nailed it. You screwed it up perfectly well. Nice job
Pretty much do the same but shim my miters on the saw if the jamb protrudes.
I also run the sander over the face of both miters to smooth them out 100% before paint.
Looks good to me, I've only done a few and I'm happy with success any way I can get it. I'll remember your sequence...Thanks!
Thanks for watching
You did. Man it looks easy when someone else does it.
You nailed it 47 times
😂
Really like the popular white trim instead of stained oak or pine. Covers up so easy.
I typically do my legs first, but that is just the way I was taught. I also slide a carpenters pencil under my trim pieces to give them a slight bevel. It helps make the gaps tighter.
You did a nice job, but I never do it. That way I was a trim carpenter for about 12 years had a pretty big business down in Florida. I always cut the right and left long legs of the jam first and set them by the door opening after hanging the door like you did, then I applied the right and left leg exactly like you did but I don’t shim the trim out. I nail those both in and then at the end of applying all the right and left legs throughout the door that I’m hanging in the building which is approximately five or six or 10 doors, I cut the tops and just set them in place. I adjusting the miters as needed sometimes as you said they need to be adjusted from 45 to 46 or 43 or whatever and slightly beveled then I use glue or caulk adhesive caulk, push the joints together and blast away But the top leg which is approximately 40 inches long from tip to tip just sets in place until I get to it I wish at the time during the 80s they had cameras and I would’ve done videos of these to show you what I mean, but it might be more helpful if you do it the way I’ve done it over the years. It was so fast and easy but the only thing I had to stand on small Stanly step up ladder to apply the top leg.
Well I seen you had a nail gun, so I’d say you definitely nailed it
There's a bunch of ways to do this, but if it looks good, it IS good... Looks good.
So good that an absolute non expert like me can't throw shade at it.
Rookie! Make your architrave as a set on the floor then pin to the lining. Guaranteed flush mitre joints every time. Also, the decorator won’t have to fill or sand prior to painting
Someone who knows what they’re doing in Construction on RUclips. Congratulations.
Thanks
Wow, thanks for teaching me how to case a door! I have been a trim carpenter for a bout 2 years but we also do a little framing, decking and siding and when we do trim houses I am usually building the closets and running base so I haven’t gotten the chance to learn yet. Now I just gotta learn how to set a door.
Glad it was helpful!
Glue your joints. Great job!
Thanks 👍
You nailed it, Brad nailed it to be technical 😂
👍
As a carpenter, I can say, you nailed it!
Pick up a pair of 1/4” comi casers for setting your margins. You can use them on closed doors on the hinge side and if you’re working with pre-finished material you can use them as an install tool.
That's quite the gap. Painter going to have to over that 2-3 times to fill it.
Almost perfect. Definately better than most.
Thanks
I make all cuts at 45°. Glue with CA and fire staples on the reverse, bridging the joint. Then i stand it and shoot it in complete, starting with the header piece, then joints and work my way down either side using a gage for an even quirk. If the frame is out by a degree you can still shoot it without the gap opening
I do check the frame for square beforehand.
Can just use the longer nails. No need to change 👌🏼 also make the top first, Cut the sides 45, turn them upside down and Mark the length. Perfect every time
I bought the that same 18 g gun 8 years ago for $50 from home depot. It's a great gun
I like mine 👍
Better job then how mine turned out, well done
Use a set square to make the lining, mark your archs of those marks, then mitre mate the architraves into one piece.
Very good job. I hope I do as well on mine.
You will
No tools like that when l was an apprentice. Yes you did it the way l do.
Good result man, but not the fastest system. When I was doing new builds we eyeball the distance for the quirk on the jam. No need to mark it, let alone measure it. Then do all the legs at once. Finally cut the head long with the 45 on one end, hold it in place and mark the other side to suit.
You nailed it bro!
Thanks man!
You should try a trim square to set your reveal. Or build a gauge. You’ll have it forever. So much better than scribbling on the jamb. If you measure both your short points on the legs before you cut anything you can kind of predict how wether or not your 45 miters will work out.
I put all my casings together with biscuits, glue them up, let them sit for an hour to dry, then nail them up. Nice tight miters every time
I hang and trim the same way, except no shims ever in the head. I just pin it and let the jamb float until I install casing.
This way if there is any settling or movement in framing you can move head, with shims your door won't open.
You didn't screw it up, you nailed it
Very nice work. Clean and on the money!!
Thanks 👍
Above and beyond!! Great job
👍
Im a carpenter, I scribe a level on top reveal then plumb line the side , that way i know even if the doors is or was installed out o plumb/level your eye will thank you when you see a plumb and level trim plus you have a perfect 45 angle at corners 👋
Good job. I do both legs before the top.
I like 46 degrees for the header and 45 for legs seems to work out better.
4 things I need. Air compressor, two nail guns, and a super saw lol
Filler and paint makes the builder a saint 😂 first told to me by a painter
I would highly recommend using a 21 gauge pin nailer. For casing no need at all to use a 15ga nail for casing
Looks great . That's how it's done
Thanks 👍