Derek thanks for this video. I've been incorporating your methods for years and glad to see someone showing how it's done! I've also used PVC conduit in many instances. Regarding the Riser Tubes...I've been using those exact same 4" wide tubes from Discount Low Voltage, but there are times where I don't need to pull that much cable and thought perhaps you knew of a 3" version of these riser tubes. I just love how simple they are to install. Thanks again!
I have looked everywhere for one and never found one yet. I have struggled a bit with a threaded cylinder on my 3D printer so far, but once I have it solved I will post an STL file so that it could be printed at different sizes manually, but if anyone makes a pre-packaged one I am still looking for them.
For all the speaker wire I ran for my ceiling-mounted speakers, I used the thicker raceway from Menards. My wife says I did a really good job, so it passed that test. For Ethernet in my network closet, I used PVC piping and then a bike hook to hold the wire up a little higher before dropping it in the rack. Unlike you, I have all my extra cable bound up on a shelf in my rack, but that's because I have my rack on wheels to move it around and manage it. The under-stairs closet in the basement is very space-constrained, so that's important to me. In the future, your videos showed me I should be putting all the bundled wires up against the wall to reduce the mess.
It would be great to do a materials cost breakdown for a (very) small office install and compare that to what you'd recommend a home owner/builder use (pvc vs. emt, big bridle rings vs. something smaller/cheaper, etc.).
I use schedule 40 plumbing or electrical rated PVC for my sleeves. There's small nipples that are male threads on one side and you run a bushing down on it to hold it in place. I try to go at least 2 inch for that option.
I really love your videos. My field engineering position at my job recently required us to start cabling regardless of our experience doing it. Anyway, your videos really fill in the gaps that I wasn't taught during my light training, thanks for making these. I noticed you mentioned software and I also saw slide shows. If you can share them, it would really be helpful. Also, my reason for commenting was that when I have a cable rack installed and I never installed the pipe to start, now after watching your videos, I want to go back and add them to all my projects and clean up the look. Do you mind going into details about how to add the pipe after the cable and rack are already installed and operational?
Briefly speaking, you'll want one of these at 2inches or there is a bigger one at 4inches, but this will surround your bundle of cables and you'll screw the halves together. www.discount-low-voltage.com/STI-FSR200-Split-Firestop-Sleeve
We are working on a renovation and have access to all the studs behind the drywall (and through the attic). Would you still recommend going through the ceiling for the wires? I was thinking I could drill some holes on the stud at the top, bring the wires in through the studd, so that they are behind the drywall and then are out horizontally directly on the rack. Thoughts?
If the house is in framing I will use any pathway through the studs that makes logical sense, sometimes this means drilling half inch holes sideways through the studs and threading the cable through, and other times it means drilling down like you suggest. If you can, try and give yourself room for future maintenance in case you ever need to add something later. That might be just a pull string, or it might mean a wider access hole with room for your hand. I think it's a good idea not to have the wire bundle visible, that's for sure.
Anyone know the name of the plastic busing that is used to create a soft edge on EMT? I've seen the electricians use this for all our data drops but I don't know what it's called.
I wouldn't call it better, but I used a Southwire Meray Stingray (used more for pulls, less for permanent install) in a location where I know I'll be pulling more runs soon. I left it clipped into the T-bar corner above the rack, and the ceiling tile guy cut around it. Then on the wall I used a cable raceway I can easily pop the cover off of to run the cables down the wall. For an install where I know I'll be passing more wires over the years, I like this even though it doesn't look quite as nice as the pipes or specific products you showed here.
That's not a bad idea...we left one behind for a few weeks due to a delay in work and I had the thought that if it were white plastic it wouldn't be so bad.
Derek thanks for this video. I've been incorporating your methods for years and glad to see someone showing how it's done! I've also used PVC conduit in many instances. Regarding the Riser Tubes...I've been using those exact same 4" wide tubes from Discount Low Voltage, but there are times where I don't need to pull that much cable and thought perhaps you knew of a 3" version of these riser tubes. I just love how simple they are to install. Thanks again!
I have looked everywhere for one and never found one yet. I have struggled a bit with a threaded cylinder on my 3D printer so far, but once I have it solved I will post an STL file so that it could be printed at different sizes manually, but if anyone makes a pre-packaged one I am still looking for them.
For all the speaker wire I ran for my ceiling-mounted speakers, I used the thicker raceway from Menards. My wife says I did a really good job, so it passed that test.
For Ethernet in my network closet, I used PVC piping and then a bike hook to hold the wire up a little higher before dropping it in the rack. Unlike you, I have all my extra cable bound up on a shelf in my rack, but that's because I have my rack on wheels to move it around and manage it. The under-stairs closet in the basement is very space-constrained, so that's important to me. In the future, your videos showed me I should be putting all the bundled wires up against the wall to reduce the mess.
It would be great to do a materials cost breakdown for a (very) small office install and compare that to what you'd recommend a home owner/builder use (pvc vs. emt, big bridle rings vs. something smaller/cheaper, etc.).
You can ask ChaptGPT 4 that it can answer it
Thank you for this fantastic practical knowledge.
Glad I found this video!!! Thank you very much for all the great info. Very professional and easy to understand.
The pipes falling off had me rolling 😂
I use schedule 40 plumbing or electrical rated PVC for my sleeves. There's small nipples that are male threads on one side and you run a bushing down on it to hold it in place. I try to go at least 2 inch for that option.
I really love your videos. My field engineering position at my job recently required us to start cabling regardless of our experience doing it. Anyway, your videos really fill in the gaps that I wasn't taught during my light training, thanks for making these. I noticed you mentioned software and I also saw slide shows. If you can share them, it would really be helpful. Also, my reason for commenting was that when I have a cable rack installed and I never installed the pipe to start, now after watching your videos, I want to go back and add them to all my projects and clean up the look. Do you mind going into details about how to add the pipe after the cable and rack are already installed and operational?
Briefly speaking, you'll want one of these at 2inches or there is a bigger one at 4inches, but this will surround your bundle of cables and you'll screw the halves together. www.discount-low-voltage.com/STI-FSR200-Split-Firestop-Sleeve
great video! Thank you for sharing
Have you tried a pipe cutter? the type with two rollers a pizza cutter style blade. Makes 90 degree cuts every time.
What might look good in a residential setting, and how much you ensure there’s a fire block or air seal?
Do you ever stuff anything to restrict the air flow say from a hot attic to a closet? Like an insulated brick or a fire brick
We are working on a renovation and have access to all the studs behind the drywall (and through the attic). Would you still recommend going through the ceiling for the wires? I was thinking I could drill some holes on the stud at the top, bring the wires in through the studd, so that they are behind the drywall and then are out horizontally directly on the rack. Thoughts?
If the house is in framing I will use any pathway through the studs that makes logical sense, sometimes this means drilling half inch holes sideways through the studs and threading the cable through, and other times it means drilling down like you suggest. If you can, try and give yourself room for future maintenance in case you ever need to add something later. That might be just a pull string, or it might mean a wider access hole with room for your hand. I think it's a good idea not to have the wire bundle visible, that's for sure.
Anyone know the name of the plastic busing that is used to create a soft edge on EMT? I've seen the electricians use this for all our data drops but I don't know what it's called.
I think you are looking for these maybe: amzn.to/3RKKPMf
“Bang On” Bushing
I would hope that you are Reaming the burrs on the inside of the raceways.
As long as the cut is fairly clean, the plastic bushings are plenty adequate.
I wouldn't call it better, but I used a Southwire Meray Stingray (used more for pulls, less for permanent install) in a location where I know I'll be pulling more runs soon. I left it clipped into the T-bar corner above the rack, and the ceiling tile guy cut around it. Then on the wall I used a cable raceway I can easily pop the cover off of to run the cables down the wall.
For an install where I know I'll be passing more wires over the years, I like this even though it doesn't look quite as nice as the pipes or specific products you showed here.
That's not a bad idea...we left one behind for a few weeks due to a delay in work and I had the thought that if it were white plastic it wouldn't be so bad.
Ez path seems like the cleanest but I still feel like the perfect product doesn't exist