Thank you for posting this video. Good job. One minor suggestion I have is to only loosen the filler cap or dipstick. You only need to allow for pressure relief as the oil drains out. When you remove the cap you could have leaves, etc fall in. I usually just pull the dipstick up a little; that's all it takes.
You need to remove the cap to fill it anyway. Your not going to get leaves in there unless your a noob lmao. Put the cap on the latch so you can't forget it when you close the hood
Great video i don't install catrige just change oil every 4 months i'm driving V70 /1999 (Mercedes Benz S500 /2004 still runing very good love you video thanks for uploading.
Not bad. Same thing I do. Maybe I am a clown though. My 02 Volvo S60 now has 240K on it I have never sprayed anything down to clean it. Drain it, new washer and filter and good to go. Maybe I am just lucky. My issues for these era cars have been mostly electrical.
I changed couple of times in last 10 years the oil on my Volvo. What works for me is 1st I untie the screw and after take the dipstick and cap. Will start with less oil to drip and avoid any mess.
Would have helped greatly to describe the tools needed up front. The oil filter wrench size is 86mm and has 16 flutes. The parts stores don't have these usually. The splash cover needs a special torx bit to remove it. Now I'm waiting four days for the tools to be shipped.
Very good video. Congratulations! I would add 2 more things to make it even more perfect. 1. Flush with 1 liter new oil to push out as much dirt as it can get out. 2. Put a magnetic drain plug, to trap small particles. I use for my S60 2007 2.4/170 non turbo MANNOL 5w30 Full Synthetic oil. For this price it is very very good.
Thanks for the video dude, super helpful!! Two questions for you: 1) What is the cleaning fluid you used to clean the oil cap? 2) What is the best way to follow the torque specs? Is there a way to measure it?
I managed to dump oil all down my driveway so make sure your bucket is bigger that the sump. These engines hold a lot of oil, I've had V8's that have smaller sumps!
John O they also have drop trays that are flat but much wider than the drain pan. The drip pans go under the drain pan and can catch a lot of the oil that may spill over the drain pan. Every little bit helps. The drip trays are easy to store flat against the wall and easy to clean with shop towels.
Most auto parts stores sell a high capacity drain pan. Totally self contained and has its own carrying handle and drain cap. Mine is 13 quart capacity which for me allows two vehicles worth of oil changes. I try to coordinate both oil changes within a few days of each other so there is only one trip to A/Z for disposal. Well worth the extra capacity to avoid having to risk spillage on the garage floor. Quick observation.....I see some videos that remove the oil filter cartridge from the top of the engine and some from the bottom. Mode year differences I am guessing but note worthy.
@@fadedghost1704 sump=oil pan. A sump is the lowest part of a structure where fluid collects. A basement, buildings, drains, cars will all have a sump often with a drain pump.
Thought about getting those ramps but I have heard after some time they crack. I would not trust my life under those! Or instead of using a"another pan" you can just put the plug back on and move the pan over.
Yooooo, c’est quoi le pays où tu habites !!!! Tu as 2 types d’huile selon la saison, 5w 30 c’est pour l’hiver, et le 10w 30 c’est pour l’été quand il fait 30° Celsius. Va lire ton manuel d’instruction. C’est important!
I live in the US. I just reviewed my owners manual and 5w 30 is what's recommended. Mine does not recommend 10w 30. Where I live most lube specialist will recommend 5w 30.
Hi, I have question: where is the gas filter, I trying to find and don't is possible, could you please say me where is? ...S60 2004 five cilinders manual transmission. Thanks for share you experience
Insert key and turn to position 1. Go to trip 1 and hold trip button at 1. While holding trip button turn key to position 2. After about 3 seconds the triangle exclamation light should blink 3 times. Release trip button.
good video thank you but i am not agree with "changing the oil with different brands or types make any kind of difference" I am a owner of a s60 t5 - 2007 and the manual says 0w30 not 5w30. But Ok. I have changed mine to 0w40, I think is not good to increase xW number. Then, oils, better pao oil than HC, and better ester than pao. My recomendation: good price good oil 70%pao +30% hc: Meguin Super Leichtlauf 0W-40 or the best option (but expensive) 60%ester+40%pao: RedLine Full Synthetic 0W40 For mine, 200k km, i am using acea a3/b4 instead of a5/5 because is ok (more protection but more consumption) and I have found good oils with a3/b4 like the menguin.
I agree base on where you live due to temperature range the weight and viscosity will change. The oils are rated for those weight. Synthetic blends allow you to go longer before changes. As far as the expensive novelty brands. They may be good, but the household brands have passed the test of time. That's why they are household names.
When I was driving Toyota I used to change oil myself since I drive Volvo I take it to mechanic some donkeys doesn’t know how to change oil they call mechanic.
These days there aren't many good mechanics that can or will diagnose and fix the problem... Strike that fix is a relative term.. These days more parts are standardized with swappable parts. With the integration of electronics and computers it's left to the computer to diagnose the problem and mechanics swap out parts... You aren't going to get a mechanic that will really go over the car and try to diagnose the problem.... You're more likely find mechanics "hobbyist" that are in love with their cars and try to find every little thing that's wrong with their cars... especially if they are classic cars... Of course this is just my opinion....
Why do you spend so much time with the cap? Who put that drain plug on? Hercules. 20n*m amature hour. That's why your drain plug was so difficult to take off. Put the filter in the cap not in the car.. I'm surprised how many people can't do this... The right way.
Yes, it's true you don't need to clean the cap.. actually might be better not to clean the cap because based on what solvent is used it may degrade the rubber seal in the cap. The rubber seal can be replaced also, not too expensive. It doesn't matter if you take it to the dealer or a local shop depending on the mechanic that works on the vehicle they may choose to make it tight or loose... If I refer to a torque specification on the video it's based on research via the manual or through forums, etc... Torque specs are not needed for people have used a torque wrench many times and have a feel of how tight or loose something should be, but it helps the newbies that might not be able to do it by feel. Most newbies overtighten instead of letting the crush washers and o-rings do the job.. If you're used to doing oil changes everyday and have a feel putting the filter in the cap first might create less mess, but it doesn't really make a difference if you put the filter on first then the cap... Also, I find that having used a couple of different filters. The center hole on some filters are tighter than others. Due to this reason there may be slippage of the filter inside the cup. Again, if you have been doing this for many years it should not be a problem, but if it's your first try it doesn't hurt to have a visual inspection of the filter fitting before adding the cap.. If you're a professional mechanic or have been doing oil changes for many years. You should have to watch this video. As per the title of this video it is for beginners. After doing a couple of changes you should be able to put the filter in the cap before attaching it to the car in one motion, but for beginner's it may be necessary to show them how or where the filter fits..
WOW ! Really ? After all that work and time, what did you save over a dealer change? I get mine done for $56 with synthetic oil of course and filter and I'm in and out in 90 mins at worst ! Shop around dude. Time is money.
Yet you came to see this video :) It's all about the satisfaction of learning and seeing how things work or have been built. It truly amazing and a wondering place if you stop and think, that human beings like you projected and designed these machines. And I am sure, they have spent a lot of time :D
@@reallyhappenings5597 lmao if you've seen the screw ups I've seen.. 100% right. It's not hard but some people figure out how to mess it up... Like amature James over here
I find nothing wrong with using conventional oil. The only difference is the frequency of change. The only benefit of synthetic is it should last longer between oil changes.
Synthetic oil keeps your internals much cleaner. Volvos, in particular, NEED synthetic oil. Particularly if you have turbos. Conventional oil will cake up in the turbo oil passages and will clock the PCV system. Synthetic oil will completely eliminate both of those issues.. as well as not needing to be changed as frequently (once the engine has been cleaned of its gunk). Most white block Volvos, in my estimation, are killed due to using conventional oils. Volvo cars have used synthetic since the 90s.
looncraz is right. The Pennzoil dinojuice you're using is so far out of spec that I wouldn't even use it in my 2.5L 10V '98 V70. It will positively kill your PCV system at the very least.
Pennzoil makes some good quality oils. That being said, I agree. If you're going to do 5K+ drains using conventional oil. You're asking for trouble. Maybe he changes his oil every 3K?
Pennzoil is one of the premium conventional motor oils. I know I sell oil. As far as Thomas Fredriksen's overkill on motor oils................. it all depends on how, where you drive and how many miles between changes. My Gosh, you Europeans take some mundane thing like changing oil as if you were operating on a tumor! Pathetic really......... 20 minutes at most, 30 if you have a couple while doing job.
omg, I feel absolutely inadequate compared to this anal oil change. Cleaning oil caps, wiping off excess oil from engine/pan/filter....torque wrench....funnel with individual 1qrt oil containers... I change my oil/filter in 5 minutes. More power to you... Just bought a volvo, so not looking forward to that splash guard. OMG, he's cleaning his oil pans!!!
Thank you for posting this video. Good job. One minor suggestion I have is to only loosen the filler cap or dipstick. You only need to allow for pressure relief as the oil drains out. When you remove the cap you could have leaves, etc fall in. I usually just pull the dipstick up a little; that's all it takes.
alanwbelche
You need to remove the cap to fill it anyway. Your not going to get leaves in there unless your a noob lmao. Put the cap on the latch so you can't forget it when you close the hood
Great video! I love the sounds when the video is in 2x speed. Especially the motorcycle and the lawn trimmer. LOL
Great video i don't install catrige just change oil every 4 months i'm driving V70 /1999 (Mercedes Benz S500 /2004 still runing very good love you video thanks for uploading.
Thanks.
Not recommended!!
Not bad. Same thing I do. Maybe I am a clown though. My 02 Volvo S60 now has 240K on it I have never sprayed anything down to clean it. Drain it, new washer and filter and good to go. Maybe I am just lucky. My issues for these era cars have been mostly electrical.
Only amatures make a mess
I changed couple of times in last 10 years the oil on my Volvo. What works for me is 1st I untie the screw and after take the dipstick and cap. Will start with less oil to drip and avoid any mess.
Nice - makes sense
Would have helped greatly to describe the tools needed up front. The oil filter wrench size is 86mm and has 16 flutes. The parts stores don't have these usually. The splash cover needs a special torx bit to remove it. Now I'm waiting four days for the tools to be shipped.
which bit did you need?
Very good video. Congratulations! I would add 2 more things to make it even more perfect.
1. Flush with 1 liter new oil to push out as much dirt as it can get out.
2. Put a magnetic drain plug, to trap small particles.
I use for my S60 2007 2.4/170 non turbo MANNOL 5w30 Full Synthetic oil. For this price it is very very good.
No. Flush it with a perfectly good quart? Waste of money. And there's no use for a magnetic drain plug that's what the filter is for. Amature
Aye man I'm glad you linked the tools 💯 great video
You bet
Great video! I just paid 60 bucks for an oil change and could do it for half that myself. Thanks.
Thanks for the video dude, super helpful!! Two questions for you: 1) What is the cleaning fluid you used to clean the oil cap? 2) What is the best way to follow the torque specs? Is there a way to measure it?
1. I used brake clean. 2. Use a torque wrench. You should be able to find the torque specs for your car online. I listed the spec for my model.
weekly winter rentals nh
Who uses a torque wrench on the drain plug lmao. Snug not Hercules tight
Tech tip: Stick long extension in socket, wiggle wiggle, wiggle it off
my 2012 S60 the oil filter seems only accessible from the top, is this right? it is limited space there to put in the wrench, how will you do it?
Nice video but why is everything so tight it’s supposed to be hand tight when putting it on
I managed to dump oil all down my driveway so make sure your bucket is bigger that the sump.
These engines hold a lot of oil, I've had V8's that have smaller sumps!
John O they also have drop trays that are flat but much wider than the drain pan. The drip pans go under the drain pan and can catch a lot of the oil that may spill over the drain pan. Every little bit helps. The drip trays are easy to store flat against the wall and easy to clean with shop towels.
Most auto parts stores sell a high capacity drain pan. Totally self contained and has its own carrying handle and drain cap. Mine is 13 quart capacity which for me allows two vehicles worth of oil changes. I try to coordinate both oil changes within a few days of each other so there is only one trip to A/Z for disposal. Well worth the extra capacity to avoid having to risk spillage on the garage floor.
Quick observation.....I see some videos that remove the oil filter cartridge from the top of the engine and some from the bottom. Mode year differences I am guessing but note worthy.
Never heard of a sump before. Must be some new sweede engineering design😂😂
@@fadedghost1704 sump=oil pan.
A sump is the lowest part of a structure where fluid collects.
A basement, buildings, drains, cars will all have a sump often with a drain pump.
@@johno9507 cars have an oil pan with a drain plug... There's no sump in a car
Very new to cars what two types of oil did he pour in
Thought about getting those ramps but I have heard after some time they crack. I would not trust my life under those! Or instead of using a"another pan" you can just put the plug back on and move the pan over.
what is the refernce for the tool you used to remove the oil filter , which install on the filter , great video thanks in advance
It's an oil filter wrench. This is the model for my car CTA Tools 2489 86-Millimeter Heavy-Duty. You can get it on amazon.
Hello...
Can you make a video How to open starter motor for 2016 V70 T5 engine (2.0 B4204T11)
Good job! Well done video! Thx.
Which year of S60 is this?
Yooooo, c’est quoi le pays où tu habites !!!! Tu as 2 types d’huile selon la saison, 5w 30 c’est pour l’hiver, et le 10w 30 c’est pour l’été quand il fait 30° Celsius. Va lire ton manuel d’instruction. C’est important!
I live in the US. I just reviewed my owners manual and 5w 30 is what's recommended. Mine does not recommend 10w 30. Where I live most lube specialist will recommend 5w 30.
What's is the oil filter wrench size you used?
What year is the S60? Does it have a timing chain or belt? Thanks, great video!
Volvo pretty much exclusively uses timing belts.
Nice video James. Quick question, have you ever replaced the transmission fluid on your Volvo? if so, do you have a video to share with us?
+Oscar Monge No I have not done any transmission fluid change, although I have thought about placing an exterior transmission filter.
I was told youre never supposed to change the transmission fluid
Amanda Beltran dont listen to volvo! that claim is bs, i change my auto 2.5t’s fluid as often as my manual R :)
Where did you bought those car ramps ? And for how much ?
how many quarts does it take. & whats the cost of the filter?
gone2secondzin123 6.1 quarts. Average around $8. Bought mine at massive bulk clearance for $3.50 A piece. Probably last me the life of the car.
Güzel, sade ve anlaşılır bir video, teşekkürler.
Ever heard of torque specifications? Looks like you over tightened drain plug and filter. Just sayin’…
what kind of liquid do you use to clean parts from oil?
Break cleaner
You dont need to remove the oil stick :)
Oil fills faster when you do. Your going to need to remove it and clean it before you check it anyway
Whats the oil filter housing socket size thanks
86mm 16 flats
Hi, I have question: where is the gas filter, I trying to find and don't is possible, could you please say me where is? ...S60 2004 five cilinders manual transmission.
Thanks for share you experience
should be to the left of rear passenger wheel
How do reset after i do an oil changer, like to get notification for Maintainace on the car?
Insert key and turn to position 1.
Go to trip 1 and hold trip button at 1.
While holding trip button turn key to position 2.
After about 3 seconds the triangle exclamation light should blink 3 times.
Release trip button.
What type/size are the bolts on the splash guard ? tnx for ur video !
Vidde H on my 2015.5 S60 there are 8 - T30 Screws
hello what is the mm size of the oil filter tool? thanks
86-Millimeter Oil Filter Wrench
good video thank you
but i am not agree with "changing the oil with different brands or types make any kind of difference"
I am a owner of a s60 t5 - 2007 and the manual says 0w30 not 5w30. But Ok. I have changed mine to 0w40, I think is not good to increase xW number.
Then, oils, better pao oil than HC, and better ester than pao.
My recomendation: good price good oil 70%pao +30% hc: Meguin Super Leichtlauf 0W-40
or the best option (but expensive) 60%ester+40%pao: RedLine Full Synthetic 0W40
For mine, 200k km, i am using acea a3/b4 instead of a5/5 because is ok (more protection but more consumption) and I have found good oils with a3/b4 like the menguin.
I agree base on where you live due to temperature range the weight and viscosity will change. The oils are rated for those weight. Synthetic blends allow you to go longer before changes. As far as the expensive novelty brands. They may be good, but the household brands have passed the test of time. That's why they are household names.
What year? Not all are the same.
2008 s60 t5
When I was driving Toyota I used to change oil myself since I drive Volvo I take it to mechanic some donkeys doesn’t know how to change oil they call mechanic.
These days there aren't many good mechanics that can or will diagnose and fix the problem... Strike that fix is a relative term.. These days more parts are standardized with swappable parts. With the integration of electronics and computers it's left to the computer to diagnose the problem and mechanics swap out parts... You aren't going to get a mechanic that will really go over the car and try to diagnose the problem.... You're more likely find mechanics "hobbyist" that are in love with their cars and try to find every little thing that's wrong with their cars... especially if they are classic cars... Of course this is just my opinion....
Does any one have videos of 2012 second gen volvo s60 t5 2.5?
What oil did you use? 5W-30
yes 5w-30
For volvo T5 0w30 🤦
@@NakamotoDorifar The oil cap reads 5w30
is that front lip stock?
yes stock
Volvo calls for ACEA A5/B5 5w-30, the only oil I can find today meeting those specs is: Liqui Moly TopTec 4200. Not Mobil 1, not Castrol Edge.
Why do you spend so much time with the cap? Who put that drain plug on? Hercules. 20n*m amature hour. That's why your drain plug was so difficult to take off. Put the filter in the cap not in the car.. I'm surprised how many people can't do this... The right way.
Yes, it's true you don't need to clean the cap.. actually might be better not to clean the cap because based on what solvent is used it may degrade the rubber seal in the cap. The rubber seal can be replaced also, not too expensive.
It doesn't matter if you take it to the dealer or a local shop depending on the mechanic that works on the vehicle they may choose to make it tight or loose... If I refer to a torque specification on the video it's based on research via the manual or through forums, etc... Torque specs are not needed for people have used a torque wrench many times and have a feel of how tight or loose something should be, but it helps the newbies that might not be able to do it by feel. Most newbies overtighten instead of letting the crush washers and o-rings do the job..
If you're used to doing oil changes everyday and have a feel putting the filter in the cap first might create less mess, but it doesn't really make a difference if you put the filter on first then the cap... Also, I find that having used a couple of different filters. The center hole on some filters are tighter than others. Due to this reason there may be slippage of the filter inside the cup. Again, if you have been doing this for many years it should not be a problem, but if it's your first try it doesn't hurt to have a visual inspection of the filter fitting before adding the cap..
If you're a professional mechanic or have been doing oil changes for many years. You should have to watch this video. As per the title of this video it is for beginners. After doing a couple of changes you should be able to put the filter in the cap before attaching it to the car in one motion, but for beginner's it may be necessary to show them how or where the filter fits..
hood release cable asembly on s60
Sorry vrong oil. It should be: 0W-30 a5/b5.
Deisel multigrade is all I have ever used and my T5 is 17 years old and 198000, getting faster.
I just picked up my first Volvo. It's a 2002 S60 T5 . What brand and weight oil should I use?
@@garyzito1860 whatever the cap says
@@fadedghost1704 5w30, been using Mobil 1 synthetic or Castrol synthetic
@@garyzito1860 I'd recommend going full synthetic still... Cost a few more dollars but worth it. If it's got a turbo it requires full synthetic
If I don't know the year, I know the model. Though I wouldn't trust.
it's a 2008
WOW ! Really ? After all that work and time, what did you save over a dealer change? I get mine done for $56 with synthetic oil of course and filter and I'm in and out in 90 mins at worst !
Shop around dude. Time is money.
Yet you came to see this video :)
It's all about the satisfaction of learning and seeing how things work or have been built. It truly amazing and a wondering place if you stop and think, that human beings like you projected and designed these machines.
And I am sure, they have spent a lot of time :D
Engine lubrication is easy to get right, but also easy to get wrong, and there is a high penalty for failure.
I can get it done for 20$
@@reallyhappenings5597 lmao if you've seen the screw ups I've seen.. 100% right. It's not hard but some people figure out how to mess it up... Like amature James over here
Cleans the cap but uses conventional oil...
I find nothing wrong with using conventional oil. The only difference is the frequency of change. The only benefit of synthetic is it should last longer between oil changes.
Synthetic oil keeps your internals much cleaner. Volvos, in particular, NEED synthetic oil. Particularly if you have turbos.
Conventional oil will cake up in the turbo oil passages and will clock the PCV system. Synthetic oil will completely eliminate both of those issues.. as well as not needing to be changed as frequently (once the engine has been cleaned of its gunk).
Most white block Volvos, in my estimation, are killed due to using conventional oils. Volvo cars have used synthetic since the 90s.
looncraz is right. The Pennzoil dinojuice you're using is so far out of spec that I wouldn't even use it in my 2.5L 10V '98 V70. It will positively kill your PCV system at the very least.
Pennzoil makes some good quality oils. That being said, I agree. If you're going to do 5K+ drains using conventional oil. You're asking for trouble. Maybe he changes his oil every 3K?
Pennzoil is one of the premium conventional motor oils. I know I sell oil. As far as Thomas Fredriksen's overkill on motor oils................. it all depends on how, where you drive and how many miles between changes. My Gosh, you Europeans take some mundane thing like changing oil as if you were operating on a tumor! Pathetic really......... 20 minutes at most, 30 if you have a couple while doing job.
omg, I feel absolutely inadequate compared to this anal oil change. Cleaning oil caps, wiping off excess oil from engine/pan/filter....torque wrench....funnel with individual 1qrt oil containers... I change my oil/filter in 5 minutes. More power to you... Just bought a volvo, so not looking forward to that splash guard. OMG, he's cleaning his oil pans!!!
white clothes for oil change... uh huh
Amatures lmao
Or just buy an electric car ;)