7 EICR FAILS - Inspection and Testing DEEP DIVE
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- Опубликовано: 11 май 2024
- In this video we go in depth on some of the reasons a house could fail it's EICR inspection with information for homeowners, apprentices and experienced electricians too.
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⏱️Timestamps
00:00 - Introduction
00:30 - Step 1 - Talk to the customer
01:37 - What is an EICR?
04:25 - Visual Inspection process
09:30 - 1st reason why your house will fail an EICR
13:35 - This could be a concern…
16:17 - What do the codes mean?
17:52 - Starting the test sequence
22:06 - Special message from Tradify
24:16 - 2nd reason why your house will fail an EICR
25:18 - Let me explain
28:10 - R1 and R2 testing
30:14 - Calculating cable resistance
32:44 - 3rd reason why your house will fail an EICR
37:51 - What on earth happened here?
39:40 - Looking at the smoke detectors
40:57 - 4th reason why your house will fail an EICR
42:25 - Adventuring into the loft
47:22 - Ring continuity test
49:02 - 5th reason why your house will fail an EICR
49:56 - How to do the figure of eight test
52:50 - 6th reason why your house will fail an EICR
54:15 - If you are a customer, please don’t use these!
56:52 - Insulation resistance test
59:05 - series of Impedance tests
1:01:35 - RCD testing
1:03:00 - Do this after you have finished testing
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Nice one
Jackery Power Bank link seems wrong. It's asking me to log in to the affiliate program.
uk.jackery.com?aff=142 - This link should work, apologies there!
Excellent promotional video Sir, Ive always said “ the future is sales “ sadly no Female electrician as yet in the team.
@@artisanelectrics Great videos . can i ask ? does having only one double plug socket per room and 3 double sockets in the kitchen fail a EICR Thanks .
Nice to have you back 'on the tools' also nice to have full 'in depth' stuff, I'm not a sparky, but its very interesting!
Glad you enjoyed it!
A shaver socket isn't SELV! It's 230v and (often) 110v. It's permitted not because it's SELV, but because it's transformer isolated and current limited to about 20VA.
You really should know better...as you're offering this as training for other electricians.
Should it not be 600mm from the Basin as well?
No
@@andywindy
Yeah cos the shaver lead won’t reach to see the mirror over the sink 😊
That plug to the single socket to the tumble dryer is no code observation. The reason being is it is run from a plugtop and is therefore not fixed wiring. No RCD to lights in the bathroom would not be a fail, it's a C3, as it was allowable at the time of installation. Obviously a recommendation is to upgrade to RCD protection.
Agreed
@@johnwarwick4105agreed, but it is acceptable to comment on wiring connected via a plug. It is not a Code issue but it would be a responsible thing to do.
In this case it's not obviously dangerous (though is the outer sheath of the T&E fully under the cord grip?), but take the case of an elderly, blind or otherwise vulnerable person who has a EICR and they use an old fan heater, kettle, tumble dryer, etc with a damaged flex, or a class 1 flouro batten in a garage, connected via a plug, but with no earth and hanging on rusty nails. Or an extension lead out of a window to a shed, with semi-permanent fixings. These things are very common and potentially lethal, but not part of the EICR. I would note them, at the very least, and may suggest a PAT at little or no cost.
@@tobysherring1369 As I said, a no code observation - ie a comment.
Agreed - providing there is supplementary bonding present to the correct standard.
The bathroom would be a c2 if it wasn’t protected by rcd and within a special location
Nice video. Some of the tips between homeowner and electrician were not very well indicated but it I think it did a very good job of going over everything that's involved.
The smoke alarms have nothing to do with the EICR if they are out of date it’s just a note
The mains aspect needs checking. 90% of the time those smokes have singles into choc blocks loose in the ceiling!
If they are fed by grid power then they are part of the house system and should be checked
No joke my friend. The electrician performing the EICR has a duty of care to fail the smoke detector as it poses a danger to the occupants. Same for any appliance they find faulty. They have to make safe.
Cheers for the advice
I only say this because I noted that there was no smokes present on a EICR and the NIC EIC inspector said that’s not part of the test?
Yeah l know what you are saying but l couldn't live with myself if they had a fire resulting in a death
Good educational video, I’d re-do the gas bond clamp as the tag shouldn’t be in contact with the pipe
Good tip!
Nice work! 🙌🏽
Thank you 🙌
Good one Jordan and Luke
As a tech in another field, i deal with the result of earth faults, and have always been stumped as to what could cause it. Obviously not my job to determine that, just to determine thats whats causing our equipment failure. But many customers dont take my word to contact an electrician to remedy it. And we are back out multiple times, sometimes with noticeable arcing and thermal damage to adj wood and metal fixtures. Super sketchy. Seeing your info on earth leakage, and appliances backfeeding voltage clues me into things ive previously thought were issues. Its always old houses with no earth protection on any outlets except kitchen/bathroom (pre 1960s here?). What a pain. Thanks for the info!
Many thanks for an excellent and instructive video
Just a couple of things…
1. The main protective bond connection should be made before any branches pipe work and within 600mm of the gas meter, so having it just after the elbow is fine.
2. The vertical height in locations containing a bath or shower is 2.25m not 2.2m.
3. The R1+R2 test should be linked at the board with the CPC of the circuit you’re testing disconnected from the earth bar as leaving it connected will introduce parallel paths.
There are more than a couple of things……he wouldn’t get half as much stick if he didn’t look down his nose at a standard sparky! Constantly saying ‘ we do it the artisan way’ like they are a special breed! I would say they are bog standard.
I think that might be tongue and cheek humour 😂, I don't think he ever claimed to be the best or know everything. He certainly puts his reputation on the line just by posting his videos and getting stick from people. Fair play to him 😊
@@MrMax247 tongue in cheek? He has 5 star electricians embroidered on the back of his t shirts 😂
Good job correcting that zone height, that 50mm difference could save someone's life.
@@thequietroom3991 Or it might help someone pass their exam.
Great video, noted your comments on the rain circuit. May I suggest you do a video on this and answer the following questions, what would you replace the ring circuit with what are the advantages and disadvantages of a ring circuit? What do they do in Europe instead of a ring circuitETC.
I look forward to seeing a new video from you on this subject. Thank you for your content.
You have to disconnect the gas bond both ends if they are not identified in the board, gas pipe is metal all the way to the boiler and if you water pipe is metal all the way they will read through on the boiler plate
Very helpful video Indeed...
Artsian are warriors bringing great up-to-date content. If i had the money and lived in Cambridgeshire, i would definitely use you! 😅
finally, a long video I can BING WATCH !!!!!!!! KEEP THIS UP
Around 12min you said the shaver socket was SELV, but probably meant SLV. Nice video as always, keep up the good work!
That loft. I would want crawl boards to go over that. Wouldn't fancy a circus act 😅
Blue-Tack pulls out those very nice screw covers on the sockets, very easy, makes socket look alot better. Noticed metal back box not bonded to socket.
Metal back box is bonded by the screws into the socket. The socket will have an earth strap that runs between the screw holes and the earth connection.
And when the socket is pulled forward for inspection, the back box is not now earthed and is at its most dangerous position as the cable could come into contact with back box and become live. Do the job properly.
Bonding the back box isn't required, the socket should be dead before you unscrew it
As long as one lug is of the fixed / static type, there is no requirement to link the cpc to the back box.
@@alexkay1270 so when socket is pulled forward (both screws removed) there is no earth on metal back box. Read your regs book and understand. What harm is there in linking. Oh takes longer.
No rcd protection for the bathroom is a fail? I thought that would be a C3 because it was installed to regs at the time
It is a c3 the eicr is not retrospective and as you say it was compliant at the time of installation
There's a bit more to the story. If the bathroom has the original supplementary bonding installed on the pipework it's a C3. 99% of the time the supplementary bonding will have been removed during the first bathroom upgrade and leaves you without the compliance to the regulations at the time hence C2.
OK if supplementary bonding
Actually an EICR is only required if you intend on letting out the property. There is no legal requirement for homeowners living at the address to have one.
Is insurance (generally) covering house if one not carried out within a reasonable time frame?
@@Spencer_White I have been asked many questions when buying home insurance, but never 'has it had an EICR?'. It's clearly not a requirement of insurance. However if you or someone else did some dodgy electrics, that caused a fire, you wouldn't be insured. My old house had an EICR but since then the previous owner did many bodges; the only solution was to put it all right and have a new EICR to confirm the repairs.
Yes correct only if letting, more solicitors seem to be asking if properties are being sold , but it’s just a tick box exercise.
Easy to scare homeowners into getting lots of extra work with reports falsely completed.
Bet jordons mob was not £20 a circuit !!!
You are right about there being no requirement for homeowners but why give your insurance company ammunition if something were to go wrong because everyone knows what insurance companies are like for trying everything to not pay out
You do not have to have an EICR every 10 years if you own and live in the house/flat. It is just a recommendation or a money making scheme for electricians.😀
Must have missed the torque screwdriver being used to reconnect cables in consumer unit…😂😂😂
Great video!
33:22 way to avoid committing! What do YOU call that? C2 or C3? personally, C2 (potentially dangerous) is when there's a real danger of damage to the exposed single insulated cable.. is that likely inside the ceiling? I leave that for you to debate in the comments !
Great video, I am a gas engineer, our regs insist that there is an earth to the gas supply, however I have noticed that these are now often not fitted due to the gas supply coming to meter is in plastic.. so we seem to have a discrepancy between your regs and ours.
Could you clarify please, it would be helpful for us plumbers 😊
Jordan did say that it is not required, but l would as the customer may extend the water supply to an outside tap using copper pipe
see gas regs 18-1-2
Is the lack of RCD on lights actually a fail? If it's a design and install under the 16th edition, you didn't need RCD protection for anything other than sockets. Surely it's a note to say that the design doesn't meet the existing requirements under BS7671. Otherwise you'll have to fail a 17th edition install for not having a metal CCU.
I agree with C3 C2 is harsh
Agree this is not a C2 - this is an advisory. Listing as a C2 is profiteering. unacceptable. It should be flagged to customer but for them to decide as it's not a fail.
No it's not but these guys like the ££££s
Agreed My son had an EICR on his house by the purchaser. A NAPIT spark had 3 C2 's one for no smoke alarms one for gas bonding after a join one for light in garage without a diffuser offered to do remedials for £800-00 make your blood boil@@jakebarrow2000
It’s not a fail , it’s a report he’s generating.
It can not be applied retrospectively.
Nice earner scaring the customers with all these dangerous fails !!!!
DIYer - not a cowboy one 😂 Out of curiosity:
1) tumble drier. Why C2 or C3 and not a misc observation. For example if everything is done correctly, would it not effectively just be treated as an extension lead?
2) Any reason for bonding a bathroom heater? Our house has bonded water mains, bonded oil inlet plus the bathroom heater has a bond.
1) because it's not 'the done thing' to put T&E into a plug (I'm not sure there's a reg forbidding it in this context) and it would be neater (and perhaps marginally safer) to put in a new fixed socket for the TD). Probably a C3 or observation, not a C2.
2) not sure what type of heater you mean, but a Class 1 appliance should always be earthed. It doesn't then need bonding as well under current regs. In the old days, metal in bathrooms was 'supplementary bonded' for additional protection before RCDs were common.
A bathroom radiator similarly doesn't require bonding - either the whole water and/or gas installation is bonded at the incomer, because it introduces earth potential, or it isn't because it doesn't.
@@tobysherring1369 If it's on a plug it's not fixed wiring. You can make an observation only as the EICR is meant to only cover fixed wiring.
@@cjmillsnun I agree. I was trying to suggest why Artisan would code it - they made a worrying number of errors through this episode. They like to code things which aren't neat, or are unconventional, rather than dangerous or potentially dangerous. There's no regs about T&E in a plug, AFAIK, or clipping flex in an airing cupboard.
I had an EICR done on a rental a few years back and they coded things outside their remit. Best example was 'no RCD to sockets that could be used for outdoors equipment'. It was a first floor flat! (I did a full RCBO upgrade but it shows how inaccurate they can be).
USB socket outlets regarding resistance testing needs to be taken into account !
If you're testing the bonding as in your diagram, the separate path to earth (through the boiler's earth connection) will distort your reading, as did the boiler's connection between gas and water pipes. You are testing the boiler earth as well as the bonding cable. To test the bonding, disconnect it from the incoming water, gas or oil end, and measure resistance to the MET. You say there is continuity but there may not be from the cable...it could be broken and you wouldn't know.
For a 'how we do it' video, so many mistakes.
A couple of obersvations. 1) I think it's "Safety Extra Low Voltage" (as opposed to FELV, Functional Extra Low Voltage). 2) If the cables inside the immersion cupboard are flexes with appropriate strain relief at both ends I don't really see why they'd need to be fixed. 3) I'd agree with the C3 on the tumble dryer connection, I can't imagine you're supposed to wire T&E into a plug. Even running an extension lead through a hole in the work top would have been a better solution but I'd probably have run a quality extension lead right to the dryer, above the work top. In an ideal world you'd obviously run a spur to a socket under the sink, fused or unfused depending on the details of the circuit.
A shaver socket however is not SELV. It's mains voltage, but transformer isolated and limited to 20 watts or so.
@@tobysherring1369 Yes, it's just a 1:1 isolation transformer.
The tumble dryer connection because it's on a plug is not fixed wiring and not covered by an EICR. I would certainly add a note, but it isn't a code.
Ahah, as a controls panel spark, I learn so much about how terrible my own domestic bodges are from these videos 😂
well done and appreciate tips EICR thanks
Glad you like them!
In Belgium we do the isolationtest in a more simple way: trip the main RCD, then measure between the ground and the line / neutral. If the test is ok, there is nothing more to do about it, otherwise, trip all the fuses and measure every circuit.
Just an IT note from an IT pro... Why are you connecting to WiFi at customers' premises? I appreciate you're using a Mac, however that doesn't make you immune to everything. Anything that isn't your own should be considered untrustworthy so you definitely shouldn't be connecting corporate (loosely spoken) devices which touch sensitive customer data to these. Number 1 move would be to use mobile hotspots, which also means you don't *need* to keep the customer's kit powered up.
he forgot his tin foil hat too
Next episode: say hello to our new sponsor SketchyVPN!
yeah agree with you, should invest in a 5G hotspot so he is able to provide his own WIFI
Bet as an IT pro, you connect to your customers wifi :)
There’s no way that unvented cylinder installed in 2014 is not going to have a thermostat and cutout . Just saying
Geez... this guy is something else.
Tell me ... has anyone else asked the customer "where is your gas and water bonding?" and not gotten a blank confused look... and a "I've no idea what youre talking about!" reply. what a fool! , not to mention assuming they are the best company around and the "Artisan way" is any different to any decent spark. what a fool!
Doesn't hurt to ask
Bang on point
No but it is reasonable to ask them, "Where is your water stop cock? and Where is your gas meter?" I think you should be careful calling others fools.
Around 18 mins in you explain how doing the dead and live tests in order is a faff
But, doesn't each test rely on the previous to be valid?
Isn't the order of the tests essential to the overall testing?
I was taught to do my continuities way before Ze's
Yes it's important.. dead tests then live tests .. people who haven't got a clue what they're doing will think is brilliant stuff
What is the tool you used to open the meter cupboard ? At 4:45 or so? Is it an attachment that goes into the interchangeable screwdriver ? 👏great video 🎉
Yeah it’s from my Wera interchangeable screwdriver kit
I guess the SELV mistake is easy to make, a bit like misusing the word Artisan……
Nice one!
Wow, haven't seen a bayonet light plug for a while, my grandmother used to plug her iron in with one!
So did my mum back at home in the sixties!
Dad used to run the Christmas lights of them and still in cotton braided cable. Probably still in the loft.
They sure did live dangerously.@@DavidMartin-ym2te
Is there any difference between an earth leakage amp meter and a standard amp meter is it possible to check earth leakage on tails with standard amp meter?.
Can't seem to find anything online to answer that?
Looks like someone spends a lot of time grocery shopping in Austria 😀 Markthalle Kulinarium (the paper bags under the sink) is in Eisenstadt, less than an hour from where I live.
Is it part of the Regs that we are not allowed to calculate R1+R2 by deducting Zs DB from Zs at end of line ?
What is not right and not safe about the attic lights wiring? I know it's hardly standard, but what's unsafe, exactly?
Isnt the cooker isolator and another plug on the other side too close to the gas hob? I thought there was supposed to be a 6cm horizontal gap going vertically from the edges of the hob?
Hi there, this might be me not under standing. But was/is there a new Reg on testing RCD/RCBO. (50% 100% ect). I thought I read something about it decreasing the life of them
If the Tesco plug meets BS1363 it's perfectly acceptable. It should be on a flex but is there a reg stating this?
It's technically not part of the EICR as because it's on a plug, it's not fixed wiring (same as that dodgy adapter in the batten light fitting in the loft)
@@cjmillsnun agreed. But if it was dangerous or close to being dangerous I'd note it.
However, being snobby about a Tesco plug is unnecessary. An electrician could go to Tesco when the wholesaler is shut, to complete a job after hours. If it's wired correctly and not broken, with the right fuse then it would pass a PAT. Can you imagine how much Artisan charge for plugs?
8.27 mins into vid water bonding
I thought the bondings were there to earth metal pipe works within the building irrespective of a pvc water/ gas main supply?
You forgot to qualify why many appliances have a small current to Earth, it is due to the L-C Suppression circuit at their mains inlet. Basically, there is a suppressor, consisting of an Inductor(L) and a Capacitor (C) between Live and Neutral, another between Live and Earth, and another between Neutral and Earth. On AC or Pulsed DC (as in many Insulation Testers) Circuits, a Capacitor conducts, as does an Inductor which is a type of Resistor. We used to have Pat Testers fail our smaller commercial equipment at one time quoting 'Live and Neutral short to Earth'.
The Cooker should have had no earth leakage through the Elements or suppressors under the circuit test, as the Isolator should have been turned off, therefore Isolating it totally from the Phase and Neutral wiring! Keep going folks, for newcomers to the field, you do excellent work and explain things in English. I can't wait to see you Lads clipping 10 parallel runs of Bare Copper Pyro up a wall at 25mm spacings like I had to as part of my Practical finals at College! (Well, it Was in 1975.)
Are you sure at 1 x the rated current on those RCD's, the reading shouldn't be greater than >300ms.........not the 200ms you stated??? Sorry mate, but I'd imagine this EICR has cost the customer hundreds, but in reality is worth little. lots and lots of mistakes.
Depends on the bs number of the RCD mate. Old RCDs (BS4293) need to trip within 200ms 👍
@@pmgc7539 Very true mate.....I suppose I am assuming that the RCD is BS61008. Being a 16th edition board, it could be either.
The BS4293 were replaced in around 2009 I think.
@@pmgc7539 Just looked....The one he tested was BS61008 🫣
replaced in 2000 and all production ceased by 2005
When you are doing IR test you are disconnected the earth from earth bar, is that correct or should left earth on earth bar and tested from there.(on 52 min)
It should be connected to the earth bar
You also mention that the down light bezels 'technically' require an earth.....? They don't. Unless you can enlighten us as to why you think this? I assume you think they are an exposed conductive part? You would be wrong. The one other thing regarding those lights that you could have mentioned, which was more important, you didn't. I'm curious......how much is an EICR like this?
Regulations state that all circuits have a cpc run to all accessories regardless whether they are class 1 or 2. if its an old installation with plastic accessories then you can get away with putting a warning sticker on the DB.
@@tasslehoff1971 He said that the bezel requires earthing.....it doesn't. The CPC is there within the t&e...., just not connected to the bezel. Now if the CPC isn't adequately connected through, that is a different story, but earthing the bezel isn't required.
can you provide a time as to when he said that? I've heard him mention the metal clip that. but not bezel.
It's a simple matter of determining whether class 1 or 2. It's a black and white issue, no 'technically' about it: it either does (C2) or doesn’t (no code or observation) need the cpc connected.
@@tobysherring1369 I agree. It’s as simple as that.
I’ve had a plastic water incoming pipe, but whilst testing found that I need to bond the internal pipes due to the pipe work passing through fabric of house
Hi Chris I don’t know of much internal pipe work not run within the fabric of a building . It only requires bonding if it introduces an earth potential . It would be difficult to introduce an earth potential without being buried in soil .
@@persona250the point here is it needs to be tested for how much earth potential (ie resistance between it and MET. A pipe in contact with a damp wall in contact with earth could be an issue.
I hear you. I have plastic gas pipe feeding our house. My installer didn't want to install bonding. To my mind, the copper gas pipe connects to the boiler and then the central heating copper pipe. I know I have heating pipes under some of our concrete floors, so unless they are all perfectly insulated from the concrete (as they should be in an ideal world) my heating system is effectively grounded. For this reason I fitted bonding to my copper gas pipe.
@@Ben-gm9lo the installer can only make that call by asking an electrician to test and certify whether it introduces sufficient earth potential to need bonding.
Totally agree. This wasn't going to happen though, so I had to make a choice. He said if I wanted it done I would have to do it myself, so with his consent I grabbed his 10mm bonding from his van and bonded away! On balance I thought this was better than doing nothing, or waiting to recruit an electrician to come and see if it really needed it or not and then finding out it was needed.@@tobysherring1369
Do you get the clients permission to connect your laptop to their wi-fi whilst they are not home?
What if you get a C1 and the client says that they will not pay for the problem to be rectified?
YOU are certainly up for a sainthood make other spaks look humble.
Ur videos are very educational ARTISAN team. Keep up the good work. I hope this changes the way the cowboy electricians approach jobs
Am i being dumb - why would flicking the light switch on or off affect earth continuity? Were you linked out in the board?
R1+R2 carried out on the switch live so when switch is off you essentially remove the R1 from the R1+R2 so you wouldn’t get a reading , also how you prove the switches are working properly
41.15 an RCD isn't connected to Earth so can't measure Earth leakage! It detects differences between line and neutral, and trips if the difference is above the predetermined current, because current is flowing where it shouldn't. Mowers and hedge trimmers should connect through an RCD but they almost never have a CPC.
This is why they stopped calling them ELCBs.
@@andywindy an ELCB does detect earth leakage, an RCD doesn't. They're two different things. It's like Jordan has forgotten basic things while he's been away.
Should gas typically be bonded at the meter? The gas in my house is bonded where the supply enters the house (below the boiler). I can't see any water bonding but the supply is plastic so doesn't seem to be required going by what you said 👍
Within 600mm of the outlet of the meter before the first T or at the closest practicable point at which the gas pipe enters the property.
Thanks 👍
Only if the incomer is metal in contact with the ground, or another part of the gas installation is and doesn't have a plastic isolating section, and therefore introduces earth potential. This needs to be tested if in any doubt. You don't automatically bond all gas incomers any more. No (or miniscule) earth potential means no bonding.
Smokes not part of eicr, it's BS5839.
Wander lead is not required for metal fittings if you're doing R1+R2 at furthest point.
Measured Zs will be different as you're measuring a live circuit which is an impedance measurement. Non live calculated Zs is dead which measures resistance.
Interesting informative video though.
Guys all you are missing are the bullet proof vests. Thought I was watching the bailiffs collection programme 😂
The max Ze (0.35) you're referring to is at the origin of the installation. The board you're testing is not at the origin.
It's better to do that Insulation Resistance test with the CPC connected into the earth bar with all the other earths & CPCs.
Just seen that you do a Global IR test later on in the video 👌🏻
Isolate the Main switch though, so you don't get a dead short between the neutral & main earth (because of the PEN Conductor). You don't need to disconnect individual final circuit neutrals.
RCD 1x is within 300ms (not 200ms)
Great video though. Nobody can get everything perfect on camera/under pressure.
33:31 that's where someone has converted a 12v downlight to a gu10
At 19:50, you noted 20 Ohms for TT system, which should be 200 Ohms.
The socket that supplied the drier isn't part of the fixed wiring. It's basically an extension lead. No code at all, worth noting at most
It's worth mentioning.. An Rcd test button should be pressed every 6 months as it stops the mechanism sticking when it needs to trip in the event of a fault
No end of times ive tested an Rcd with a tester and it will fail to trip the 1x test the first time its tested because the mechanism hasn't moved for god knows how long.. Then once it it's been tripped once or twice it works fine
Wonder why we don’t have something similar like an EICR in the Netherlands. Would be nice to see an abroad edition on a typical Dutch home installation with the pros and cons compared with UK.
No systematic testing and inspection? Germany and Austria have had that for decades but it was mostly only mandatory for commercial properties. Austria made EICRs mandatory for newly rented properties in 2008 and also added some requirements that go beyond "installations must comply with the regs in force at the time of completion", mainly 30 mA RCD protection for all circuits regardless of the age of the installation.
I recently stumbled across a few videos by Dutch electricians and found some interesting differences in how things are done, like bare main earths.
A web search shows that you do have a testing regime but as with the UK it isn't compulsory for an owner-occupier of a private house to have it done, except in special circumstances. A good deal of the west is like that, inspections for rentals etc, and it's up to you to decide for your private house.
1Mohm table 64 bs7671 .
Never do eicr,s hate them with a passion but someone has too do them I guess, will only ever consider empty properties and even then I have to give my head a wobble 1st
1200: SELV is Safety Extra Low Voltage. You have shavers running at below 50V AC in the UK or what?
Always amazes me why it takes two sometimes 3 men to do an eicr. What happens when you have to pull in a big swa? 10 men? 20?
Is the customer paying for two men to do an eicr?? And for it to fail giving you extra work? Ouch.
Luke rides the buzz to the bar.
No RCD protection-Bathrooms C3 with supplementary bonding, cables less than 50mm C3, Bathroom luminaries C3, Insulation resistance values minimum of 1Meggerohm final circuits not 2 Meggerohms also CPCs should remain in the MET when testing, figure of 8 test1 & test 2 were the same?, ring main IR test no need to put both ends in the croc clips you just proven continuity, plastic incoming pipework- applying protective bonding to a conductive item which is not an extraneous-conductive-part might lead to the risk that under fault conditions these items may become raised to the fault voltage for the time it takes the protective device to disconnect.
3:26 should have said "it's megger"....
I'll get my coat
I'd be very surprised if that's a traditional tank fed immersion system with a plastic feeder tank.
EICR's down well by someone with knowledge are possibly the best thing you could ever pay for to protect your property and people in the premises from harm but done cheaply and badly can be your worst enemy
For a video with more life and knowledge watch David Savery do an EICR
R1+R2 test why do double the test? You go around with the wander lead and test that point then come back later and connect the live to CPC to test again. The record sheet has R1+R2 and or R2?
Personal preference an R2 test can be used as you say but it seems in the video he was using it as a way to prove earth continuity to every metal fitting / faceplate without having to remove every metal fitting/ faceplate so you can take that reading yes but most people would do an R1+R2 over just an R2
Interesting. I am concerned that repeat testing will shorten the life of the installation. How many times can you remove and replace a wire before it is damaged. Is it possible to prove an installation is safe without removing wires or fittings? If you switch off an RCBO can you do insulation tests by connecting to the load terminals of the RCBO? Can you check resitance on ring circuit by observing voltage drop at a socket when a 3 kW heater is switched on. Some electricians could introduce faults when replacing wires or fittings! I think it shoild be possible to prove an installation is safe without removing wires and fittings.
I understand your concern but thi really isnt a problem as they done every 3,5 or 10 years
It's also pretty easy to re-terminate a wire, which might be fatigued from repeated removal and reinstallation.
@@dangallagher2306
exactly, if they did fuck something up, it would not be spotted for another 10 years lol
@@jeremykemp3782 and that would be down to that qualified electrician like any other time a mistake is made
By the time an introduced fault is found the previous electrician could be retired or deceased.
Single insulated exposed cables above down lights would be a c2 and therefore unsatisfactory, the fact that the bathroom light is not rcd protected is a c3 not c2 as the test is not retrospective and this would have complied with the regulations at the time of original installation
The long lead was incorrectly nulled. those R2 reading won't be accurate mate
He didn’t use the R2 readings thought he used the wander lead to prove continuity but he did R1+R2 on each circuit
1:02:35 ish. Is it really 200ms for TN-c-s in the UK? It's 200ms for TT and 400ms for TN in Denmark :o
Its 200ms for an RCD with a BS number. Its actually 300ms for an RCD with a BSEN number at the rated trip current
A broken ring final on a 32 amp breaker won't overheat and cause a fire.
are those downlights fire rated?
Nope
C2 or C3? @@artisanelectrics
Feed from CU to solar? Surely that's a feed from the solar to the CU? And the 100mA RCD protects the installation, not the inverter, which only outputs AC (no AC input).
RCD for lights on a 16th edition installation ! I think not, so never a C2, its not retrospective.
Priority Hot Water from solar is quite normal. Why is the contactor method wrong?
It's the "Loose breakers wired inside a project box" that's no good I imagine.
Unsubbed from this channel months ago. Best decision I made.
Yet here you are.
Yes, but anyone can still look regardless.@@benskidmore6523
Fire rated Downlight ? To make fire barier ? In event of fire whole floor will be flame no matter what downlighting u got lol .
At least a proper OSO water heater from Norway 😏
Hi c2 For no Rcd Protection no way it is actually a c3 it even says so in Napit Codebreakers these regulations are not retrospective.
Tesco plug top C2, are you sponsored by CEF Jordan?
I think little skilled end user can do the first part, and the second part opening the electric appliances, it's free and can save a lot of money by correcting the basics fault like screw not screwed fully for example, for example also using a multimeter to verify earth phase, phase neutral, and earth neutral, to be sure there isn't a lost of earth or neutral. This is just basic test
A MFT is needed for the testing, eg insulation resistance and continuity of cables, earthing and rings. A multimeter measures resistance but not at sufficient voltage to give the required results.
Sure, a homeowner can check for loose screws, cracked faceplates etc and check the basics, eg with a plug-in tester, but the value of an EICR is the stuff you can't test yourself. You'd have to read a lot to know what size tails and earth bonding are needed, and what needs bonding.
@@tobysherring1369 I never said it to replace the EICR I said if you don't have the budget, or anytime it a good idea to do it in place of doing nothing.
@@Irilia_neko yes, it's a good idea to test and repair what you can as you go along. But an EICR done properly gives you much more data and highlights things you could never find out for yourself. And sometimes you have to have one, eg rental property.
Some of these fails are not fails it should be noted that existing installations apply to the previous regulation standards at the time of installation and upgrading to the latest regs is advisory . It’s not acceptable that some company’s jump on the money making band wagon and as previously stated home owners are under no legal requirement to have an ECIR . Saying that I would advise any home owner to have a periodic check done .
The other problem is the ECIR is open to interpretation by the individual doing the test so standards are different and this is usually down to a poor understanding of the regs /electricity at work act and lack of experience .
Please explain why Jon was laid off, he was an EICR god
Even a 13A plug to a double socket wouldn't cause an overload due to the 13A fuse in the plug. Conceptually it is not really different to a power strip off a 13A plug, albeit that the strip will also have a 13A plug. Using T&E is a bit odd though.
It should be ok, but there is potentially a risk that the flex doesn't have adequate cooling in the wall. The 13A rating assumes they have air around them. That's why you shouldn't leave an extension cable coiled while in use. In this case, I can't imagine there being an issue, but it is something to think about.
You are right, it’s just an extension cable, if the wire and socket weren’t clipped to the fabric of the house then it wouldn’t be within the scope of the regulations but as soon as it becomes “permanent” they apply. This is why extension cables with holes for screws to attach them were banned in uk back in late 80s or early 90s.
@@_chrisr_really 😳every 4 or 6 gang lead still has two fixing holes.
@@thomasdalton1508overheating! It’s 2.5 on a 13a fuse come on
The problem with T&E is it’s solid core. When you bend and move around solid core it work hardens and cracks changing the resistance of the cable. Over time this “could” reduce the current carrying capacity of the cable to be less than the fuse. I think this would take a lot of time to be dangerous but it’s possible. In the IT world using solid core in patch leads eventually fail but as the voltage is very low any minor change can cause problems. Sure they work but they do fail within a few years.
However the risk is really small.