OMG! They should delete all other tutorials on how to do a Provisional Cast On so people only find this one. This is the best way to do it that I have found & it solves that pesky lost stitch issue that so many videos totally ignore or mention in passing but don't SHOW you how to deal / remedy it when it cones time to pick the stitches back up. THANK YOU, this is an amazing video!🤩🤩🎆
I would love to see a version of this video with the waste yarn option as the main topic and also to show how to join in the round and also would like to know whether the waste yarn should be the same weight as the project yarn.
I just tried this on a hat pattern. Used my project yarn for the cast on (no waste yarn). When taking out the cast on for 100+ stitches in the round, I found that I had to unravel the crochet CO slowly and in sections. Not a problem, just an observation. What a slick technique. LOVE IT.
Yes, when done over a larger number of sts (and particularly when it's not a short, straight section, you do have to tease things out a bit, but it is a nice technique!
Thank you. That's the best method I've seen for provisional cast on. I hate trying to capture loose stitiches and I am never satisfied I've done it quite right. I will use this one from now on.
This CO method yields the same # of live sts.as the # of CO sts, whereas using the crochet CO directly onto the knitting needle yields 1 less live st from the # of CO sts. I used the lifeline CO for a top down, raglan sleeve, hooded sweater for a teddy bear as it was the first time I did a provisional CO. The pattern called for a provisional CO of 29 sts. When it was time to work on the hood the pattern said to unravel the provisional CO and put the 28 sts onto a needle. Lesson learned. Check the pattern to see how many sts need to be picked up before choosing the PCO. I ended up doing a K2tog in the next row to get back to the needed st count
Boy, I love this. I've never done the provisional cast on before, and worked it on a recent cowl project, but the first row of the pattern includes YOs, ssks, and K2togs and when I tried to remove the crocheted chain I just messed up the entire thing. I love the life line! I am confused about using the working yarn for the chain, but I will give it another few practices. Thank you!
FYI on the standard crochet-around-the-needle method of doing a provisional CO: the CO typically isn't complete until there are sts on the needle in the working yarn. So after you crochet around the needle, you have to work across all those sts with the main yarn (all knits or all purls, doesn't matter) before you work Row 1 of the pattern. You might also like other provisional CO methods, as well. The Turkish CO is extremely easy, and it's the one I have settled on more recently (I have a video on my channel for this CO, if you're interested.)
Amazing, thank you Rox! I nearly always start a project with a standard provisional crochet cast on, in case I need to add to it, plus my cast off is looser and more even than my normal cast on. This looks quicker and simpler than even the standard crochet cast on, once you get the practice in! Definitely give this a try! 😎
Wow, this is some serious witchcraft! I watched the beginning of this video, and wondered "What the heck is she doing with only half the required stitches cast on?" And then, witchcraft happened. You never fail to deliver, Roxanne! Thanks for being my knitting guru!
Please do a video of picking up stitches or grafting neatly when the fabric is not stockinette. Eg. For shoulder seams, I have a textured pattern involving right twists and it's hard to see exactly where I should insert the needle to pick up or graft.
I tried this technique both ways - with waste yarn and without - and I'm having issues with both. My project calls for an odd no. of stitches, and so I cast on as you instructed. However, when I use the waste yarn method, I end up with one stitch short after I've pulled out the cast on edge (not the lifeline) because the final stitch isn't really a stitch at all, rather a knot I tied on the tail end of the waste yarn. When I don't use waste yarn, then the first stitch after the emergency chain has been unravelled seems twisted twice, I'm not sure why. But I really hope you can help. Thanks for sharing such a nifty cast on technique, though.
I have to use waste yarn. How much of a tail do I need when I start with the project yarn? I mean for the row where you do YO, K1 with the project yarn. I would benefit from seeing another video of this method using waste yarn. Thanks.
I love your videos! I have been working on trying this particular provisional cast on-, with waste yarn of contrasting color, and am trying to cast on an even # of stitches (continental knitting) . For some reason I am having trouble yarn over at the YO at the beginning . Prior to this I was practicing with an Odd # to cast on and had no trouble starting with a K1. I'm just wondering what I need to do to make this work? Any help would be appreciated :-)
Did you tie the waste yarn and the main yarn together? You need to do that in order to allow for the YO. Are you an English knitter? When you have the working yarn and needle in your right hand swing the tip of the needle toward you and under the working yarn to form the YO. Or, with the main yarn hanging (tied to the waste yarn, insert the needle through the first st on the left hand needle, and then grab the working yarn from the FRONT and bring it over the working needle and then tension the yarn in your hands, etc. Either one will form a YO at the start of the row.
Thanks as always for your knitting engineering approach that helps my right brain produce better results. I am knitting moccasin slipper flat, and I was wondering if this provisional or even any better provisional would work for kitchenering the sole. I don't like the idea of having a bulky seam on the bottom of the slipper so I want to just kitchener, but don't have a mechanical mind that can foresee possible problems using a provisional and doing so. Any advice?
The purpose of a PCO is to allow you to work live sts in the opposite direction. That could mean knitting fabric of considerable length; to just bind off the sts, in order to match the BO at the other end; to work a border that you attach to the live sts; or to graft those sts to another set of live sts. YOu can use them in whatever way you would work any other set of live sts.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanx Rox ... so is a specific way of doing provisional better than another for combining live sts from prov with each other since basically it gets folded in half and seam forms the bottom of the flat knitted slipper? I guess I ask this because of previous times when I had 1 or 1/2 stitch less than I cast on? Hope I am making sense. I didn't want to have a st at end with nothing to kitchener it to if I could help it. Sorry if dumb question.
Very clever Provisional Cast On. Wow, could have really made us of this for one of the squares in the Great American Afghan. There are loads of projects that this would be good for! Excellent video as always. I didn't notice you were working with a DPN at first, no worries, I figured it out.
Roxanne, do you have any videos demonstrating how to do a provisional cast on at the end of a row😊? For example, my sweater pattern calls for : “CO 20 sts onto the right needle using the provisional cast on method. Break yarn.” These sts are eventually going to be picked up again for the neckline. I’m having a hard time finding a video demonstrating this technique, and I think I’m just going to do a backwards loop cast on at this point.
You could do a long tail CO, using waste yarn for the thumb yarn. Later on, you'd capture all of the sts in the first row of the main color, and then snip and pick out the waste yarn. I find htat to be the easiest way to do a mid-row/mid-round PCO.
@ thank you for such a fast response! After thinking about how to do this since yesterday, I wound up having an epiphany and I made a crochet chain and then knit the stitches into the chain. Sounds fairly similar to the method you recommended. Thank you again :)
Hi Roxanne I was glad to see these helpful tutorials as I began a new project that uses PCO in its directions ( it doesn’t do the half number and YO like yours though) my question is I need 222 stitches so twice I have CO 111 and then per your instructions because that’s an odd number started with K1 before the YO, K1 sequence. Do you mean if my end total is odd or the number I CO with the crochet hook? Or am I supposed to pick up another one down below? Both times I have ended up with 221 S. Also this is knit in the round and after 11 rows the yarn holding the CO is removed and stitches placed on another needle , the work folded WS and live stitches from both needles knit together as one to form a hem. So should I join the stitches after the YO k1 row?
The instructions are to crochet half the stitches you need onto the knitting needle. If you need 222 sts, then you CO 111. Doubling any number (odd or even) will result in an even number, so by working YO, k1 across those 111 sts, you'll end up with the 222 you wanted. If you want to *end up* with an odd number, like, say, 221, that's when you have to do things differently. After you've doubled the sts, you'll work the 11 rnds, just as your pattern states, and then when you join to the CO, you'll move the PCO sts on the waste yarn to another needle.
I so appreciate your quick response as I had ripped out and was redoing the PCO So I think that was my confusion is the even / odd is the total result desired not what I had CO, so starting with YO should make the stitch I was missing Thanks again. I’ll check out how to buy you a cup of coffee 👍🏻☕️
I just finished a cowl that was knit on 16 inch circulars/US3 needles. It started out with a PCO and ended with using the Kitchner stitch to join the ends to make a continuous circle for the cowl. What a nightmare I had! I want to make another one but I want to avoid the problems I experienced with the first one. I am hoping this will simplify the Kitchner closing for me.
Practice on a small strip, to see how you like the process. You might also want to consider one of the other PCOs I have demonstrated in videos more recently, such as the Turkish CO, or Figure-8 CO (I don't recommend Judy's Magic CO for joining the end of one strip to another.) I prefer yet another method for grafting one end of a strip to another, which is to start by casting on and working a row or two in pattern, using waste yarn, and ending in a similar way. Then you can graft without dealing with live sts, but the decision may depend on the stitch pattern you're using. You can find an article I wrote about the non-live stitch method here: www.ravelry.com/twir/83/ask-a-knitter-23
I recommend watching some of the other videos in this series. They all start with the crochet CO. Some of them demonstrate with the waste yarn, and some of them with the project yarn. Because the first part of the CO is worked the same, regardless of its use, you can see how the waste yarn is used in one of the other videos.
For the first stitches you put on - the “half-of” - would those be the waste yarn ones? Or would the second row, “full number” be the waste yarn ones? This technique is brilliant but I don’t want to mess up 188 stitches!!
So happy to find your videos. My pattern calls for 67 PCO's. I see that you are rounding up and using even numbers only. Can this work with an odd number as my pattern calls for? Will I have other problems if I use an even number? I am not a very experienced knitter. All help is appreciated!
I do explain how to end up with an odd number. If you need 67 sts, you would CO 34, and when you work across you start with k1, and then do (yo, k1) across, which will give you the odd number you want.
I accidentally found a cast on using crochet hook and one needle, making an "x" with two appliances with crochet hook on top, and wrapping yarn aroung both first, then around the hook and pulling that loop through to make the casted on stitch. I lost the web site and want to use that technique but need to see it again. Can you help me?
The only CO I know that uses a single knitting needle and a crochet hook is the crochet cast on. It's often used as a provisional cast on. I have a video on my channel that demonstrates this.
Great method. However, I am doing something wrong. I can only pickup the original number of stitches, ie half the number I require. I cannot see the Yo’s when I release the PCO.
If you're using a contrast color for the PCO, it may be easier to see. Pull the yarn taut so that you can see them. Once you are able to see them with contrast yarn, you will have an easier time seeing the if you are using the same color.
I just tried this for the first time (without waste yarn life line) for a pair of shorts of 112 stitches in the round. It seems like only half of my stitches are on the life line when unraveling the crochet chain. What have I done wrong?
Without seeing what you actually have on the needles, and the lifeline, I can't say. If you have the right number of sts on the needle, the number on the lifeline should be the same, once you've released the lifeline. If you start a discussion thread in my Ravelry group, and post a photo, we can probably figure out what went wrong.
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks so much for reachi g out to me! And so fast. 🙏🏽❤️As I look at it again, it seems like my yarn overs and regular stitches are twisted every time... Maybe I pulled the crochet chain out too fast, or maybe I did something wrong earlier. I'll try to take pictures to show it in your group. For now I'm happy that it seems I do not have to start over again, it ll be just more work to get them back on the needle.
It is very difficult to see where exactly you insert the stitch marker...is in ON the stitch or between the stitches?? Looks like it changes in the video....really confused
I am left-handed but was taught to knit right handed. I crochet left handed. Is there anything I need to do? It is very hard to crochet the provisional cast-on right handed & the top I want to knit has 312 provisional cast on stitches. Help! It is Cascade #W382 Lovely Lace Yoke T-shirt by Cascade Yarns.
You are very clear in communicating and teaching, but I had some problems with this one. I wish you had shown this with the waste yarn, which is the way most projects would need. Does that make a lifeline? I love the crochet provisional cast-on, but I didn't get why your stitch count was one short when you went to retrieve the provisional stitches, and you said it was fine and you would get it from the end. You didn't show that, though, nor did you show picking up the stitches. It looked like it would be very difficult, and with the waste yarn, it isn't difficult. The waste yarn would have been a good way to demonstrate why this works. This was interesting, yet I'm still confused, and I'm an experienced knitter.
Most projects call for waste yarn because of the way the PCOs are created. Whether you choose to do the crochet CO portion in the project yarn or waste yarn is simply a preference in this case. There were some picture-in-picture clips to compare what the waste yarn version would look like. Regardless, you will pull that lifeline out after the sts are captured onto the needle. I'm not clear on why you thought I was one stitch short when I retrieved the provisional sts? Or why you thought retrieving the sts would be difficult? Have you tried the technique? Perhaps that would clear up any concerns/confusion you have about how the technique works and whether or not you would find it useful.
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OMG! They should delete all other tutorials on how to do a Provisional Cast On so people only find this one. This is the best way to do it that I have found & it solves that pesky lost stitch issue that so many videos totally ignore or mention in passing but don't SHOW you how to deal / remedy it when it cones time to pick the stitches back up. THANK YOU, this is an amazing video!🤩🤩🎆
Marvellous ! That blue colour looks lovely on you.
Thanks for showing us how to make this cast on.
Whenever I need to look up a technique, you always have it covered! And you also explain the “why” of things. I love that.
I would love to see a version of this video with the waste yarn option as the main topic and also to show how to join in the round and also would like to know whether the waste yarn should be the same weight as the project yarn.
I always look for your technique videos because you not only show what to do, but explain why we do it. Thank you.
I just tried this on a hat pattern. Used my project yarn for the cast on (no waste yarn). When taking out the cast on for 100+ stitches in the round, I found that I had to unravel the crochet CO slowly and in sections. Not a problem, just an observation. What a slick technique. LOVE IT.
Yes, when done over a larger number of sts (and particularly when it's not a short, straight section, you do have to tease things out a bit, but it is a nice technique!
This is the coolest thing ever !
As I pulled to release the crochet stitches I could not believe my eyes. This is just WOW !!!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video!!! ❤❤❤
Just found this video. Really helpful. Some provisional cast on methods the stitches are offset by half a stitch. This is perfect, Thankyou 😊
You aren't going to get around having a half-stitch offset, but you will have the same number of sts on the needle in both directions.
Thank you. That's the best method I've seen for provisional cast on. I hate trying to capture loose stitiches and I am never satisfied I've done it quite right. I will use this one from now on.
Brilliant cast on method & as usual very clearly explained Many thanks 🙏💙💛
This CO method yields the same # of live sts.as the # of CO sts, whereas using the crochet CO directly onto the knitting needle yields 1 less live st from the # of CO sts. I used the lifeline CO for a top down, raglan sleeve, hooded sweater for a teddy bear as it was the first time I did a provisional CO. The pattern called for a provisional CO of 29 sts. When it was time to work on the hood the pattern said to unravel the provisional CO and put the 28 sts onto a needle. Lesson learned. Check the pattern to see how many sts need to be picked up before choosing the PCO. I ended up doing a K2tog in the next row to get back to the needed st count
Boy, I love this. I've never done the provisional cast on before, and worked it on a recent cowl project, but the first row of the pattern includes YOs, ssks, and K2togs and when I tried to remove the crocheted chain I just messed up the entire thing. I love the life line! I am confused about using the working yarn for the chain, but I will give it another few practices. Thank you!
FYI on the standard crochet-around-the-needle method of doing a provisional CO: the CO typically isn't complete until there are sts on the needle in the working yarn. So after you crochet around the needle, you have to work across all those sts with the main yarn (all knits or all purls, doesn't matter) before you work Row 1 of the pattern. You might also like other provisional CO methods, as well. The Turkish CO is extremely easy, and it's the one I have settled on more recently (I have a video on my channel for this CO, if you're interested.)
I love the detail in your explanations and demonstrations!
Thank you Roxanne, your videos are very helpful, clear and very well explained.
I'm so glad!
Thank you Roxanne! will be using this to knit a reversible hat for my husband.
Amazing, thank you Rox! I nearly always start a project with a standard provisional crochet cast on, in case I need to add to it, plus my cast off is looser and more even than my normal cast on. This looks quicker and simpler than even the standard crochet cast on, once you get the practice in! Definitely give this a try! 😎
Wonderful!
Wow, this is some serious witchcraft! I watched the beginning of this video, and wondered "What the heck is she doing with only half the required stitches cast on?" And then, witchcraft happened. You never fail to deliver, Roxanne! Thanks for being my knitting guru!
10:26 Super video. Thank you so much. ❤
Please do a video of picking up stitches or grafting neatly when the fabric is not stockinette. Eg. For shoulder seams, I have a textured pattern involving right twists and it's hard to see exactly where I should insert the needle to pick up or graft.
Dang this is slick! Awesome. TY TY
I tried this technique both ways - with waste yarn and without - and I'm having issues with both. My project calls for an odd no. of stitches, and so I cast on as you instructed. However, when I use the waste yarn method, I end up with one stitch short after I've pulled out the cast on edge (not the lifeline) because the final stitch isn't really a stitch at all, rather a knot I tied on the tail end of the waste yarn. When I don't use waste yarn, then the first stitch after the emergency chain has been unravelled seems twisted twice, I'm not sure why. But I really hope you can help. Thanks for sharing such a nifty cast on technique, though.
I have to use waste yarn. How much of a tail do I need when I start with the project yarn? I mean for the row where you do YO, K1 with the project yarn. I would benefit from seeing another video of this method using waste yarn. Thanks.
Wow! Did a tiny swatch using contrasting yarn but yeah there's not really a reason to use scrap yarn vs the working yarn.
I love your videos! I have been working on trying this particular provisional cast on-, with waste yarn of contrasting color, and am trying to cast on an even # of stitches (continental knitting) . For some reason I am having trouble yarn over at the YO at the beginning . Prior to this I was practicing with an Odd # to cast on and had no trouble starting with a K1. I'm just wondering what I need to do to make this work? Any help would be appreciated :-)
Did you tie the waste yarn and the main yarn together? You need to do that in order to allow for the YO. Are you an English knitter? When you have the working yarn and needle in your right hand swing the tip of the needle toward you and under the working yarn to form the YO. Or, with the main yarn hanging (tied to the waste yarn, insert the needle through the first st on the left hand needle, and then grab the working yarn from the FRONT and bring it over the working needle and then tension the yarn in your hands, etc. Either one will form a YO at the start of the row.
Many thanks for sharing 🙏💙💛
Thanks as always for your knitting engineering approach that helps my right brain produce better results. I am knitting moccasin slipper flat, and I was wondering if this provisional or even any better provisional would work for kitchenering the sole. I don't like the idea of having a bulky seam on the bottom of the slipper so I want to just kitchener, but don't have a mechanical mind that can foresee possible problems using a provisional and doing so. Any advice?
The purpose of a PCO is to allow you to work live sts in the opposite direction. That could mean knitting fabric of considerable length; to just bind off the sts, in order to match the BO at the other end; to work a border that you attach to the live sts; or to graft those sts to another set of live sts. YOu can use them in whatever way you would work any other set of live sts.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanx Rox ... so is a specific way of doing provisional better than another for combining live sts from prov with each other since basically it gets folded in half and seam forms the bottom of the flat knitted slipper? I guess I ask this because of previous times when I had 1 or 1/2 stitch less than I cast on? Hope I am making sense. I didn't want to have a st at end with nothing to kitchener it to if I could help it. Sorry if dumb question.
How to work on a provisional cast on ! If I have a knit one purl one pattern ,
Very clever Provisional Cast On. Wow, could have really made us of this for one of the squares in the Great American Afghan. There are loads of projects that this would be good for! Excellent video as always. I didn't notice you were working with a DPN at first, no worries, I figured it out.
Roxanne, do you have any videos demonstrating how to do a provisional cast on at the end of a row😊? For example, my sweater pattern calls for : “CO 20 sts onto the right needle using the provisional cast on method. Break yarn.” These sts are eventually going to be picked up again for the neckline. I’m having a hard time finding a video demonstrating this technique, and I think I’m just going to do a backwards loop cast on at this point.
You could do a long tail CO, using waste yarn for the thumb yarn. Later on, you'd capture all of the sts in the first row of the main color, and then snip and pick out the waste yarn. I find htat to be the easiest way to do a mid-row/mid-round PCO.
@ thank you for such a fast response! After thinking about how to do this since yesterday, I wound up having an epiphany and I made a crochet chain and then knit the stitches into the chain. Sounds fairly similar to the method you recommended. Thank you again :)
Fabulous video.
Can I use this method to knit in the round?
Yes. After you work across the CO using yo, k1, join in the round.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks
My question exactly. Thank you so much!
Hi Roxanne
I was glad to see these helpful tutorials as I began a new project that uses PCO in its directions ( it doesn’t do the half number and YO like yours though) my question is I need 222 stitches so twice I have CO 111 and then per your instructions because that’s an odd number started with K1 before the YO, K1 sequence. Do you mean if my end total is odd or the number I CO with the crochet hook? Or am I supposed to pick up another one down below? Both times I have ended up with 221 S. Also this is knit in the round and after 11 rows the yarn holding the CO is removed and stitches placed on another needle , the work folded WS and live stitches from both needles knit together as one to form a hem. So should I join the stitches after the YO k1 row?
The instructions are to crochet half the stitches you need onto the knitting needle. If you need 222 sts, then you CO 111. Doubling any number (odd or even) will result in an even number, so by working YO, k1 across those 111 sts, you'll end up with the 222 you wanted. If you want to *end up* with an odd number, like, say, 221, that's when you have to do things differently.
After you've doubled the sts, you'll work the 11 rnds, just as your pattern states, and then when you join to the CO, you'll move the PCO sts on the waste yarn to another needle.
I so appreciate your quick response as I had ripped out and was redoing the PCO So I think that was my confusion is the even / odd is the total result desired not what I had CO, so starting with YO should make the stitch I was missing
Thanks again. I’ll check out how to buy you a cup of coffee 👍🏻☕️
Hello ! Would I need to slide my stitches if I'm joining in the round?
I just finished a cowl that was knit on 16 inch circulars/US3 needles. It started out with a PCO and ended with using the Kitchner stitch to join the ends to make a continuous circle for the cowl. What a nightmare I had! I want to make another one but I want to avoid the problems I experienced with the first one. I am hoping this will simplify the Kitchner closing for me.
Practice on a small strip, to see how you like the process. You might also want to consider one of the other PCOs I have demonstrated in videos more recently, such as the Turkish CO, or Figure-8 CO (I don't recommend Judy's Magic CO for joining the end of one strip to another.) I prefer yet another method for grafting one end of a strip to another, which is to start by casting on and working a row or two in pattern, using waste yarn, and ending in a similar way. Then you can graft without dealing with live sts, but the decision may depend on the stitch pattern you're using. You can find an article I wrote about the non-live stitch method here: www.ravelry.com/twir/83/ask-a-knitter-23
It would be useful if you did a separate video using waste yarn.
I recommend watching some of the other videos in this series. They all start with the crochet CO. Some of them demonstrate with the waste yarn, and some of them with the project yarn. Because the first part of the CO is worked the same, regardless of its use, you can see how the waste yarn is used in one of the other videos.
For the first stitches you put on - the “half-of” - would those be the waste yarn ones? Or would the second row, “full number” be the waste yarn ones? This technique is brilliant but I don’t want to mess up 188 stitches!!
The waste yarn is used only for the crochet part. The yarn used to double the st count is the project yarn.
this is great.
how do you do this cast on for a cable
So happy to find your videos. My pattern calls for 67 PCO's. I see that you are rounding up and using even numbers only. Can this work with an odd number as my pattern calls for? Will I have other problems if I use an even number? I am not a very experienced knitter. All help is appreciated!
I do explain how to end up with an odd number. If you need 67 sts, you would CO 34, and when you work across you start with k1, and then do (yo, k1) across, which will give you the odd number you want.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much! Looking forward to starting new project with this method!
How do u do this wuth life line is another color?
Does it matter if some of your cast on stitches need to be picked up in purl such as you were making a cuff for a sweater?
No it doesn’t
I accidentally found a cast on using crochet hook and one needle, making an "x" with two appliances with crochet hook on top, and wrapping yarn aroung both first, then around the hook and pulling that loop through to make the casted on stitch. I lost the web site and want to use that technique but need to see it again. Can you help me?
The only CO I know that uses a single knitting needle and a crochet hook is the crochet cast on. It's often used as a provisional cast on. I have a video on my channel that demonstrates this.
Great method. However, I am doing something wrong. I can only pickup the original number of stitches, ie half the number I require. I cannot see the Yo’s when I release the PCO.
If you're using a contrast color for the PCO, it may be easier to see. Pull the yarn taut so that you can see them. Once you are able to see them with contrast yarn, you will have an easier time seeing the if you are using the same color.
I just tried this for the first time (without waste yarn life line) for a pair of shorts of 112 stitches in the round. It seems like only half of my stitches are on the life line when unraveling the crochet chain. What have I done wrong?
Without seeing what you actually have on the needles, and the lifeline, I can't say. If you have the right number of sts on the needle, the number on the lifeline should be the same, once you've released the lifeline. If you start a discussion thread in my Ravelry group, and post a photo, we can probably figure out what went wrong.
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks so much for reachi g out to me! And so fast. 🙏🏽❤️As I look at it again, it seems like my yarn overs and regular stitches are twisted every time... Maybe I pulled the crochet chain out too fast, or maybe I did something wrong earlier. I'll try to take pictures to show it in your group. For now I'm happy that it seems I do not have to start over again, it ll be just more work to get them back on the needle.
It is very difficult to see where exactly you insert the stitch marker...is in ON the stitch or between the stitches?? Looks like it changes in the video....really confused
The marker is placed on the working yarn, prior to doing the first YO.
I am left-handed but was taught to knit right handed. I crochet left handed. Is there anything I need to do? It is very hard to crochet the provisional cast-on right handed & the top I want to knit has 312 provisional cast on stitches. Help!
It is Cascade #W382 Lovely Lace Yoke T-shirt by Cascade Yarns.
I think it'll be fine. Try it on 10 stitches and see how it goes.
You are very clear in communicating and teaching, but I had some problems with this one.
I wish you had shown this with the waste yarn, which is the way most projects would need. Does that make a lifeline? I love the crochet provisional cast-on, but I didn't get why your stitch count was one short when you went to retrieve the provisional stitches, and you said it was fine and you would get it from the end. You didn't show that, though, nor did you show picking up the stitches. It looked like it would be very difficult, and with the waste yarn, it isn't difficult. The waste yarn would have been a good way to demonstrate why this works. This was interesting, yet I'm still confused, and I'm an experienced knitter.
Most projects call for waste yarn because of the way the PCOs are created. Whether you choose to do the crochet CO portion in the project yarn or waste yarn is simply a preference in this case. There were some picture-in-picture clips to compare what the waste yarn version would look like. Regardless, you will pull that lifeline out after the sts are captured onto the needle.
I'm not clear on why you thought I was one stitch short when I retrieved the provisional sts? Or why you thought retrieving the sts would be difficult? Have you tried the technique? Perhaps that would clear up any concerns/confusion you have about how the technique works and whether or not you would find it useful.
Roxanne Richardson but how do you start with a YO when using waste yarn?
cable provisional cast on