Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
This is the proper way of wiring any of the mini pumps. With the wiring for these pumps, you always break the S1 wire which is one leg of AC feeding indoor unit that will drop out the indoor unit. If you use the S3 wire, the float/contact in the pump control board will cause a communication fault. That is why we break S1 wire. Plus the wires for the pumps are UL listed and approved for the manufacture of the pumps.
3:20 Whenever you're wrapping stranded wires around a screw, if you twist the strands in the opposite (counter-clockwise) direction (but still wrap the wire around the screw in the clockwise direction), then when you tighten the screw, the strands will not fray.
I have been very disappointed in the Sauermann Si-30 Pump. The float will get this slime on it in the off season and the unit will just overflow all over the floor until someone turns it off. Also, they are LOUD. The vibrate the whole wall. And it sounds like symphony when its really humid out and they are all pumping. In the living room, I wen with a DiversiTech ClearVue™ Cube. The ClearVue™ Cube has a larger tank and only pumps %10 of the time the others do. It also doesn't use a float. I am looking to see how the ClearVue™ Mini is for my other units. Any thoughts from you guys?
Question: I'm installing a Senville (mitsubishi) 36k btu four head system. I live in Western NY where the winters can be bitter cold. Can I run the condensation drain tube directly outside to the exterior condenser unit even this far north? I guess my real question is, WHEN THE UNIT IS IN HEAT MODE, DOES IT PRODUCE ANY CONDENSATION THAT MIGHT FREEZE IN THE TUBE AND CLOG IN WINTER CONDITIONS? Thanks very much!
Have you ever actually installed this pump behind a wall mounted unit? It is impossible to fit the lineset, drain, pump, and resivour behind the unit and clip it to the back plate. If you know of a way, I'm open for advice
Question, what kind of condensate tube is that? It looks like it is insulated. I've read in the manual (for the MLZ in my case) that I'm required to use *insulated* condensate tube.
I want to see you do that with it mounted to the wall with the copper lines connected and put the pump in there, also the wire for the pump doesn't look like 14g wire. NOT CODE
I am just was about to hook up the electrical portion of one of these S1-30 pumps to a PKA-A36KA. After checking out an online diagram, I had a concern. Won't the S1 (Yellow) be carrying the full amperage of the complete unit through the detection unit on a 20AWG?? This multiconductor is only 20AWG, where as the existing S1 is 14AWG. Just like to know if this could be an issue.
Is this similar for an aspen mini lime pump on a Mitsubishi unit.? I need help…. I’ve got a purple orange gray wire…. S1 S2 S3. Which ones go where? The company said the orange doesn’t go to anything and gray and purple go into S1 which would have a total of four wires in it if they were the case……. Doesn’t make sense ..
@@PageTrimble negative- I ended up giving up and will just call an HVAC person. Only use it one or two months a year anyway so it’s really not that big of a deal… no one seems to know. Seems it should be really simple…. Checked other Units in my complex and their pumps are in the wall…… Go figure/ probably will order a new one, have someone install it. Hate paying anyone to work on anything in my home…. Anything at all.
Guys, do not break the S3 wire. It will go into a communication lockout. Breaking S2 will do the same. Only break S1. That's the only way for the unit not to lock out and be able to restart.
@@jakesmith2984 No. The outdoor unit has it's own power source. I think that the thermostat calls for cooling or heat then send a signal to the indoor unit then sending that signal to the outdoor unit to come on.
Ok bud you have a couple things wrong here if you are wiring to a 208/230 evaporator and condenser. First, with a condensate pump your communication wire should go directly to the communication wire on condenser (24V) and your N/C from pump should go to S3 on the evap. This creates a closed loop through the pump of 24 volts and if the pump should fail then the contact opens and the evap loses it's communication from the condenser and therefore shuts down so water doesn't leak everywhere.
Just had this problem due to the pump safety braking s3 and unit having com loss . The safety must brake line voltage to evaporator not communications as this will throw a e6 and has to be manually restarted even after contacts have closed .
How much more shit can you hide in these mini split units? It’s already very difficult to fit the line set and drain under the unit cover. Easy to install on that bench but that shit will be popping off the wall. Show us how you install it in somebody’s house.
THESE ARE TERRIBLE, DIFFICULT, MOODY, FINICKY MACHINES THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL AND SERVICE/TROUBLESHOOT. THEY ARE LEAK PRONE AND SHOULD HAVE STAYED ENTIRELY OVER-SEAS!!
Typical BS, not once has he either made sure that there's real power going to the unit, checked that everything is working correctly and what if the Split system condenser is about 4 meters away and about 2 meters higher than the pooling section of the A/C unit mounted on the wall, i have a Mitsubishi split systems and the condensation pump stopped working just the other week, and now that the water is pooling out of the roof and plastic connection or covering outside the place where the A/c unit was mounted, we require more basic and better understanding of where those pumps are to be placed and what amount of water or condensation can it handle, as far as i can see it looks like a little water pump which could empty a small fish tank full of water before it would over load itself and blow up, which i believe has happened to out unit and we have over 100 Degree days in australia ?
We have multiple mini splits all with condensate pumps. Horrible decision. The pumps - at least 2-3/year - get replaced. They clog, are weak, horribly engineered devices. Can’t believe they still install them. We’ve had water damage over and over again. AC guys want 500 to replace each pump. MONEY PIT. STAY AWAY. Drain by gravity. Pumps are a nightmare, especially if installed in an attic.
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
*Love this unit! Using upstairs in my sons bedroom **Fastly.Cool** and he’s finally able to be comfortable upstairs without me freezing downstairs. Works for more sqft than expected!*
Awesome video guys. I have to install 2 in the morning, and this is spot on.
Any videos of a running condensate pump? I'd like to know how loud a properly installed pump should be
This is the proper way of wiring any of the mini pumps. With the wiring for these pumps, you always break the S1 wire which is one leg of AC feeding indoor unit that will drop out the indoor unit. If you use the S3 wire, the float/contact in the pump control board will cause a communication fault. That is why we break S1 wire. Plus the wires for the pumps are UL listed and approved for the manufacture of the pumps.
Yeah I’m definitely breaking ac voltage with a 20 gauge wire you stipis fucming bicth
3:20 Whenever you're wrapping stranded wires around a screw, if you twist the strands in the opposite (counter-clockwise) direction (but still wrap the wire around the screw in the clockwise direction), then when you tighten the screw, the strands will not fray.
I have been very disappointed in the Sauermann Si-30 Pump. The float will get this slime on it in the off season and the unit will just overflow all over the floor until someone turns it off. Also, they are LOUD. The vibrate the whole wall. And it sounds like symphony when its really humid out and they are all pumping. In the living room, I wen with a DiversiTech ClearVue™ Cube. The ClearVue™ Cube has a larger tank and only pumps %10 of the time the others do. It also doesn't use a float. I am looking to see how the ClearVue™ Mini is for my other units. Any thoughts from you guys?
What is the amp rating on the pump? We're required to run 14/4 and the pump wire don't look to be no bigger than 20 gauge.
Question: I'm installing a Senville (mitsubishi) 36k btu four head system. I live in Western NY where the winters can be bitter cold. Can I run the condensation drain tube directly outside to the exterior condenser unit even this far north? I guess my real question is, WHEN THE UNIT IS IN HEAT MODE, DOES IT PRODUCE ANY CONDENSATION THAT MIGHT FREEZE IN THE TUBE AND CLOG IN WINTER CONDITIONS? Thanks very much!
Have you ever actually installed this pump behind a wall mounted unit? It is impossible to fit the lineset, drain, pump, and resivour behind the unit and clip it to the back plate. If you know of a way, I'm open for advice
Question, what kind of condensate tube is that? It looks like it is insulated. I've read in the manual (for the MLZ in my case) that I'm required to use *insulated* condensate tube.
I want to see you do that with it mounted to the wall with the copper lines connected and put the pump in there, also the wire for the pump doesn't look like 14g wire. NOT CODE
I was going to ask the same question. The thermostat wire looks to be 18ga. I thought 14Ga was the recommended minimum allowed....
It can be a lower gage wire
@@PageTrimble not according to the install manual
I am just was about to hook up the electrical portion of one of these S1-30 pumps to a PKA-A36KA. After checking out an online diagram, I had a concern.
Won't the S1 (Yellow) be carrying the full amperage of the complete unit through the detection unit on a 20AWG?? This multiconductor is only 20AWG, where as the existing S1 is 14AWG.
Just like to know if this could be an issue.
The load is not much more than one amp.
exactly where do you mount it when the unit is already on the freaking wall and line sets connected???
Y
Is this similar for an aspen mini lime pump on a Mitsubishi unit.? I need help…. I’ve got a purple orange gray wire…. S1 S2 S3. Which ones go where? The company said the orange doesn’t go to anything and gray and purple go into S1 which would have a total of four wires in it if they were the case……. Doesn’t make sense ..
Did you ever figure it out?
@@PageTrimble negative- I ended up giving up and will just call an HVAC person. Only use it one or two months a year anyway so it’s really not that big of a deal… no one seems to know. Seems it should be really simple…. Checked other Units in my complex and their pumps are in the wall…… Go figure/ probably will order a new one, have someone install it. Hate paying anyone to work on anything in my home…. Anything at all.
Guys, do not break the S3 wire. It will go into a communication lockout. Breaking S2 will do the same. Only break S1. That's the only way for the unit not to lock out and be able to restart.
er0r de un aire América de d0se 12 se mil beteu e f 5
Wow exactly what the poster said.Good job genius!
What if the indoor unit has it's own power source and a communication wire coming from the outdoor unit?
carlos garcia Why it would be like that?So your condensor is always running?
Makes no sense.
@@jakesmith2984 No. The outdoor unit has it's own power source. I think that the thermostat calls for cooling or heat then send a signal to the indoor unit then sending that signal to the outdoor unit to come on.
Ready to start a fire! Have a close look at brown in s2. It moved after you were finished with it, its loose! Oops!
blackdatto ground wires bro
How would you wire a little giant condensate pump?
You'd power it as needed and break S1 with the safety switch. BUT! Make sure the switch is line voltage rated. Most are only 24 volt rated.
Why didn't you show where that pump is going? I need to know, please
Most of the time they are mounted above the ceiling. It sucks the water to it and does not need to stay primed.
The same question I always have. Then they want you to fill the pan with water and test it.
Thank you!
Followed this instruction...now heat does not work...was this instruction for a split system or just for an a/c system?
It doesn't matter if it is a Y or Z model.
S1 (L) wire? S2 (N)wire?.
Pump check?
Ok bud you have a couple things wrong here if you are wiring to a 208/230 evaporator and condenser. First, with a condensate pump your communication wire should go directly to the communication wire on condenser (24V) and your N/C from pump should go to S3 on the evap. This creates a closed loop through the pump of 24 volts and if the pump should fail then the contact opens and the evap loses it's communication from the condenser and therefore shuts down so water doesn't leak everywhere.
I think the pumps come in 208 or 120 v.
Just had this problem due to the pump safety braking s3 and unit having com loss . The safety must brake line voltage to evaporator not communications as this will throw a e6 and has to be manually restarted even after contacts have closed .
Everything is easy when the unit is on the bench. FFS
Come on, holding the unit with two arms while wiring it isn’t that hard! Just grow another pair of arms!
How much more shit can you hide in these mini split units? It’s already very difficult to fit the line set and drain under the unit cover. Easy to install on that bench but that shit will be popping off the wall. Show us how you install it in somebody’s house.
tell me about it
Hi
THESE ARE TERRIBLE, DIFFICULT, MOODY, FINICKY MACHINES THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL AND SERVICE/TROUBLESHOOT. THEY ARE LEAK PRONE AND SHOULD HAVE STAYED ENTIRELY OVER-SEAS!!
And service contracts aren't cheap...I bet a lot of techs Don't even clean the pumps because in some cases they are too hard to get to
Typical BS, not once has he either made sure that there's real power going to the unit, checked that everything is working correctly and what if the Split system condenser is about 4 meters away and about 2 meters higher than the pooling section of the A/C unit mounted on the wall, i have a Mitsubishi split systems and the condensation pump stopped working just the other week, and now that the water is pooling out of the roof and plastic connection or covering outside the place where the A/c unit was mounted, we require more basic and better understanding of where those pumps are to be placed and what amount of water or condensation can it handle, as far as i can see it looks like a little water pump which could empty a small fish tank full of water before it would over load itself and blow up, which i believe has happened to out unit and we have over 100 Degree days in australia ?
We have multiple mini splits all with condensate pumps. Horrible decision. The pumps - at least 2-3/year - get replaced. They clog, are weak, horribly engineered devices. Can’t believe they still install them. We’ve had water damage over and over again. AC guys want 500 to replace each pump. MONEY PIT. STAY AWAY. Drain by gravity. Pumps are a nightmare, especially if installed in an attic.
Sorry bud piss poor job explaining the wiring. Also other pumps use different colored wires. I’m more confused than before I watched your video.
@
Best you dont do wiring! horibble horibble!