That’s funny. I’ve had 3 Cherokees over the years, an 84,85 and 89. I stripped the 84 down and painted it. I had been driving it for over a year and someone came up to me and said”your grill is on upside down”
What I like about all of you guys is that you drive old stuff. Makes me feel right at home. I have a 1998 Explorer, 2001 Tahoe and a 2004 Dakota. When I go anywhere I put on my mask so nobody knows who I am.
do your old trucks have 50k in parts in them too? they drive new 100k trucks to pull their old stuff. do you have 3 cuz 2 are always broken? i have a 94 toyota with 400k miles
@@carlholland3819 Yep, my 2001 Tahoe is always broken down. As soon as I fix one thing something else brakes. This has been going on for almost 10 years. 1998 Explorer, 276,000 miles. Still going strong. 1992 Ranger I gave to my grand son 356000 miles going strong. 2004 Dakota, 88,000 going strong. I never know when any of these are going to give out. The Tahoe, Explorer and the Dakota aren't worth anything so i just keep driving them and am going to continue driving them until they quit. Can't afford anything new. Can't afford to keep up with the neighbors. Afraid to buy anything new, too expensive to have repaired and too hard and complicated to repair my self.
! You found my '87 Wagoneer! Bought one new in San Diego. Definitely not off-roaded but good for two new kids and groceries in the rain. 195 hp 4.0! Has possibilities....
Well, there is that. And there is, you have this thing on a trailer(donor wagoner)and instead of bringing it to the shop and or in the shop,(so you are close to all your tools) the work is done 50-100 yards away from the shop. And only AFTER trying to carry it that far does he get a wheel barrow. 🤷♂ Planning does not seem to be his strong suit. 🤣 Which is why at the last minute he is trying to fix it for Easter which is when this was published. 🤔 Plan, KISS and the world can be an easy place to live in. 😉
To a mechanic’s ear, it sounds like you possibly have a fuel delivery issue, ie. fuel pump on the fritz or plugged filter. I’d check/clean all your grounds as well. It also sounds like you might have a slight ignition timing issue, but that could stem from low fuel delivery under full throttle. If your exhaust smells excessively rich, it might be a timing issue such as your spark advance not advancing. I’ll be waiting to see what you find. Keep up the good work. Enjoy the content and also really digging the Charger.
I could type a whole novel about my experience with the 4.0 running like crap once it warms up but here's a super summarized version. For starters it's an 05 TJ and probably means absolutely nothing to your situation. It started with cam, crank, and 02 sensor codes. After replacing all of that she ran great for about a month but still got some random 02 codes. Then I found something about resetting the computer memory so it can re-learn the new sensors. (Disconnect the positive and touch it to the negative for 30 seconds to discharge the capacitors in the ecm and reconnect, turn ignition to on but not start, headlights on, headlights off, ignotion off) Ran great for a few weeks and then my alternator quit, bought a new one and still no charge. So then I dove into the wiring and found a bunch of ground terminals on the engine that weren't in the best shape and replaced those. Alternator started working and the 02 codes were finally gone but I was back to it going into limp mode after it warmed up but just getting getting crank sensor codes. After nearly setting the jeep on fire to collect the insurance money and countless nights combing through all the "expert opinions" on the forums I kept seeing something about non Mopar sensors being problematic. Luckily I still had my old original sensors and put them back in and reset the computer again without any expectations of it fixing the issue. Well it's been 3 months and she's running perfect for now🤞 Now I just have to tear half the motor apart to replace the rotten freeze plug I've been patching with jb weld to get me through winter. And yes it's an 05 with a rotten freeze plug because I guess jeep saved a ton of money using steel plugs instead of brass🤦♂️🤬 I'm sure my novel won't help you but it might help somebody with way less patience or mechanical aptitude than me to NOT buy an old-ish jeep
I had a 1998 Jeep yj with 4.0 L six was running much like yours had a warped intake manifold got worse when hot Machined the head and put new throttle body injector ran like a top after
On the freeze plugs you might find that most often its owners who don't flush out and replace their coolant often enough that have problems with freeze plugs, radiators and heater cores. The anti-corrosion components in coolant do fail over time and the system then needs to be drained, flushed and refilled on a regular schedule before that happens. If you wait until the coolant tests out as bad then damage has most likely already started. I've only had freeze plug issues on used vehicles where the previous owners were lax in flushing the coolant. Same with brake fluid, after two years it has to be replaced to get the best service life from your brakes. On vehicles I've owned from new that have steel freeze plugs I've gone 20/30 years or longer without an issue just due to following best practice on coolant flushes. Never had a brake line rot out internally or had to replace a wheel cylinder/caliper either due to following a 2 year brake flush schedule. Some will counter that on brakes you only need to flush brake fluid if a test strip inserted in the reservoir shows its bad however that gives you a false sense of security since brake fluid does not recirculate back to the reservoir on most systems so you can end up with pockets of failed acidic brake fluid eating away at various components throughout the system even when a test strip indicates the fluid in the reservoir as good. Preventative maintenance is much more convenient and cost effective than waiting until something breaks. On a used vehicle even if the seller "claims" that maintenance is up to date I presume they are mistaken (or worse) and treat it like a vehicle that has not be serviced correctly for a long time. So far judging from what I've found most sellers over the past 50/60 years have been mistaken with a very rare few actually being correct. On the codes you really need to look past just code reading and start looking at the data logs after putting on your Dick Tracy hat otherwise you end up like Inspector Clouseau bumbling along and accidentally stumbling upon the solution after a prolonged ordeal. Glad you found the root cause in the bad grounds which is why I tell the kids to check all your grounds first before doing anything else. Best!
Rudy - Call the Bleepin jeep buddies and do an episode together to troubleshoot the Comanche problems. They could probably trouble shoot this blindfolded. Hope I'm not giving them too much credit but ''share'' each other as a resource to solve the problem. Love the videos you put out - keep learning as you go - you get better every episode.
Rudy I love your channel. I did not read all of the comments so this may have been said already. My 1989 Cherokee with the 4,0 had the same problem where it would not rev up. If it has a catalytic converter it is plugged. To fix it disconnect the rear exhaust pipe. Take a long bar and ram it in the converter. I used a long digging bar. Keep doing this until you break through the other side. You want to have a large hole all the way through the converter. Reattach the exhaust pipe and your go to go.
I have a Renix Comanche. First thing you should check is to see if the header bolts for the intake and exhaust are tight. It is common for those bolts to be loose and cause a big intake leak. You did good to refresh all of the sensors and grounds.
Janelle is the best girlfriend a guy could have. She is so supportive and gets right in there and helps out. Also she's awesome with a camera. Looking forward to the next video from EJS.
I knew it was the transfer case when he shifted it into park. I heard the parking pawl grind. They do the same thing if you cram it into park while moving too fast. ;)
the early model engines used a soft lobe cam and over time the lobes junk out and do exactly what yours is doing you can replace the cam but i would go v8 or v6 my self
Love the channel, Actually as a life long jeep guy I ran 258’s for a long time and all I had experience with was the 4.0 HO and I thought it was garbage, threw 2 rods in ours. Then just this year I bought a Renix Comanche. I absolutely live it. 224 at 2500 vs 3-4k in the Ho for 225. Deletable emissions, everything is simple.
I bought a Comanche when they came out. Specced it to be an economical commute vehicle for the Winter months and nothing else planned for it. Few options, 4x4 but nothing off-road-ee. 4 cyl. with the 5 speed manual. Whoa did I love that vehicle and used the livin' heck outta it. Had more adventures than I ever dreamed of (including a couple of saved-my-ass moments). Owned it for, like, ten years, no major mechanical issues, but rust finally hit, and things like the headliner dropping, just age issues. Then I got t-boned. Sad day.
My YJ had this very same problem. It turned out to be the strainer in the tank getting filled with junk. It would run great for the first couple minutes when the junk settles to the bottom then cut out.
As far as the 231 transfer case, I found several 208 transfer cases in customers vehicles that when the shift fork got worn out that coming to a stop (like a stop light) the excessive wear in the fork allowed the annulus gear to slide forward on the shaft spines (inertia) into neutral. A quick fix to drive it home/shop is to shift it into four wheel drive. You may have experienced the same scenario with the broken shift fork on the 231 and it’s range fork shift hub. Of course you weren’t able to shift it with a broken fork.
Ya might wanna check your gas cap. Mine did the same thing and I swapped the gas cap. Problem solved. That model had the remix ecm in it Mopar upgraded them. All these vehicles have electrical Grimlins Dandahermit
The two most common problems with the RENIX 4.0L. are CPS and fuel ballast resistor. Known problems with "new" CPS. Only get the NAPA or OEM ones, others have quality issues. Ballast resistor can be bypassed to make it run until you get a new one. Cruiser54 is a great resource for the Comanche. Almost all of the problems(and fixes) in one place. I love mine, and hope to see yours on the trail soon.
Same thing here. My 90 XJ ran just like the comanche, replaced the CPS and didn't help. My issues came from the harness. 23 year old Mopar wiring against a hot block does some serious damage. I diag'd the wiring and values were good, until one time they weren't. The engine would heat the wiring and short it out, but intermittently. I suggest pulling the CPS wiring harness all the way back and check it.
👍 I was trying to remember it's correct name that dang ballast resistor if it corroded, cracked or damaged. A replacement one years ago was a PTA to find in early 2000s.
The fuel pump ballast resistor is only there to reduce fuel pump noise...delete the silly thing on any wheeler! X2 on Cruiser54's Mostly Renix info stash, invaluable for any Renix owner.
Did you check the coil? There was a recall on them in the early 90's. Had 2 go bad on me with 2 different symptoms. One, intermittent miss under a load causing reduced power and the other engine would only run at idle.
Had a similar issue idle fine falls flat on its fave under load. Final diagnosis was a bad stator in the distributor. Replaced the distributor and has ran great ever since
Those ignition coils are known to go bad and start cross firing when they get warm but it sounded more like a throttle position sensor issue in the video. I had a 97 Wrangler that ran like that when the T.P.S went bad, but I had to keep driving it like that because it was too new at the time to get an aftermarket replacement and the dealer took a week so it sucked. Lol
ok so heres my take on your Waggy, just like my 1987 2 dr XJ, its a holy grail wagoneer, its the last year of AMC, and the first year of the 4.0 in the XJs. now, if youre really lucky it will have the factory towing package with the rear Dana44 and limited slip diff like my XJ, which was only available 87-90 in XJs, its much more common in MJ Comanches. your Boston is awesome he should be in every video👍👍
Got me an 88 2dr just swapped from closed to open cooling system this weekend and upgraded the trac bar and mount. Got a small coolant leak from the waterpump inlet tube, should have used pipe sealer rather than Teflon tape😑
2 thoughts, vacuum leak or half blocked fuel filter. For vac leak test, get the motor running rough, then spray tiny bursts of butane close in around the induction system. If the engine note smooths, shes sucking in butane at that spot instead of air. Long bbq lighters with the flint disabled should be quite accurate and reach difficult places. Face shield on, extinguisher beside you and definitely outdoors with pauses to let unburnt butane disapate. But ive never had an issue doing it with due care - and am safely in New Zealand!
Rudy, Low fuel pressure! So, the fix; New Air filter, New Fuel filter, New Fuel Tank Sock, New Fuel Pump, New Fuel regulator and throttle position sensor in that order is all that is left. That's it, ready to rock! No charge
Of course they did. When else would everybody start fixing their stuff. If you don't have a deadline, no project ever gets done. I thought everyone knew that.
I had the same issue! I know you said you tried a crank position sensor, but I would try another one. I went down the list like you did, to the point I was pulling my hair out. Warrantied my crank position sensor, replaced it again and fixed it. Best of luck, let us know what you find.
My first vehicle I bought after graduation was a 1984 wagoner limited select-trac, Put a 4" rancho lift and wheeled it. Nice way to grow up. I think it's the blinker fluid sensor, if it shorts out it'll start running like a blinker, off and on, off and on. Have a hippidy hoppidy holiday 😊
Blinker fluid is only on the early Dodge Vipers. True fact, you can see the fluid level in a little tube in the headlights. ruclips.net/video/LXe4LRuc1f0/видео.html
Sorry for my bad technical English in advance. I had a similar behaving car a few years ago. It was the ABS sensor in the rear axel (I'm not sure if your Comanche has got ABS) which was coroded and sent false signals to the main computer.... Took us quite some time and tries to find but after changing it the car was driving fine (normal throttle response) and is still today. All the best from Germany, Maximilian.
Rudy, I know very little about cars, but I have encountered a situation where a clogged exhaust caused similar things. The one I seen had a Muddobbers nest in it. Just a possible issue. You’ll figure it out 👍👍
It was a great idea to leave the drip pan sitting directly under the transfer case to soften the blow as it fell free. I wonder if the mystery fluid makes good rust inhibitor? That part of the video made a real SPLASH.
Rudy it seems like a fuel pick up issue because it doesn't seem to get enough fuel when you push on the throttle. Something seems to be restricting fuel. I know you will get it figured out. I hope you guys have a good time at Easter Jeep. Are you going to be building a rock crawler for Janelle? In my opinion she definitely needs one because I know she will be great at it
At the beginning you got in the Comanche and ran it through the gears. When you put it in park, I could hear the parking pawl clicking clicking across the spinning gears of a working transmission. At least the transfer case was an easy fix. Good luck with the engine issues. Hopefully it is as simple as a plugged fuel filter or pickup screen in the tank
Could it be as simple as a gunked up fuel filter? I know almost nothing about mechanic work, but it reminds me of an old work truck I once had to drive around. Good luck sir and happy Easter to you and yours.
Just an idea but check harness plugs and see if they have wiggle room. Chased an issue with my 4.0 GC forever. Was the harness plug on the coil intermittently wiggling loose
My 89 Comanche did similar, I found two issues. The hose disconnected from the fuel pump in the tank, and the bolt for the TPS was stripped and not holding it in place. A clamp on the hose and a heli-coil in the throttle body solved the issues. Hope this helps point the right direction.
I had the same issue on my ‘88 Wagoneer Limited, a twin to the one you’ve got. And it ended up being the flex plate, if you swapped flex plates with the new transmission make sure it’s one from another renix, and ones from the parts stores do not work either, the holes are punched incorrectly
I have worked on a few Comanches with that problem found it to be the exhaust system not enough compression for the motor or not enough getting out good luck
I had a 95 ZJ with the 4.0 It did the exact same thing your MJ is doing. It ran fine at cold temp until warm. I replaced the o2 sensor. Has been fine ever since.
3 things I can think of being the problem, fuel pump going out, gunk in fuel tank/ filter, then the ceramic resister if it's cracked or damaged, corroded wires that can do that. The first two have been mentioned by others. I got my 90 XJ back from shoddy work done and had that part I commented on busted. I had some issues like it's showing. I'm coming up blank on the correct name for it right now. Now on a good note, the block in that time frame Comanche is possible the diamond in the rough, extra heavy casting block. Great opportunity for building a stroker (4.5- 4.7) motor, then drop 91/92 heads, etc, on. I got one in a 86 Comanche I got for a project in 99-00.
Had the same issue with my 02 TJ and it ended up being the crank sensor. It was replaced with a new cheap sensor that didn't work. Ended up getting an OEM and ensure proper air gap and good as new.
It could be a bunch of things that make it run rough like that. I've had a clogged up catalytic converter cause problems like that. It idols fine, but when you try to increase the air flow (especially after it has warmed up) it just chokes up the engine and runs crappy. It's pretty easy to just open up the exhaust somewhere upstream of the catalytic converter and see if that makes a difference. Good luck finding the problem.
My 91 Cherokee developed a small miss. We found #6 plug fouled out and replaced it... only for it to do it again. And got worse as time went on. A compression check showed bad on #6 only. Ended up a hole in the piston. Hopefully yours isn't that serious, but might be worth a check. Really enjoy the videos!!!
I had a 4.0 do that to me as well, it was a bad head gasket. There are a few test to run to rule that in or out, but sometimes we always assume all problems are electronic and forget to cover the basics.
The N/P on my Ford worked great. One day I came out of the field and found a coffee can with a cap and bearing parts . The land owner said is this yours? lol When you were putting it back in park and heard the clickety from the Parking mechanism I had doubts the trans was bad. With the Comanche it sounds like water in the gas. Quick fix, sell it to me. I love those square body pickups.
I wondered - when I heard the parking Pawl ratcheting away when you put it in park. Glad it was T case , cheaper, easier and quicker repair! Good work!!
For that rough running after it gets warm, you may need to check your head, or block where the head meets, for warping, allowing a piston to leak when warm (Happens especially to the number 1 and number 6 pistons). I've seen 3 of those inline six engines do that. Heads and block milled flat, and they run great. If you do have that issue, I'd go ahead and rebuild the engine, and possibly have it bored a few thousandths over, while you have it out. I would like to have one of those Comanches, myself.
Check the ignition system and distributor (Cam Sensor) on the Comanche. Also there was a recall for the fuel injector wiring in 2005. look for the bulletin.
i don't remember if the comanchee has it or not, but on the '87-'90 XJ there is a connector at the firewall the manual calls it "C-101" and this connector tends to vibrate around and the connections loosen up, disconnecting C101 and cleaning it with a good contact cleaner, then tightening it back down will fix 90% of the running issues, the way to deal with all the problems C101 creates is to literally chop it out and move it over one circuit at a time removing the connector completely from the circuit, also if you have that stupid 1.1Ohm resistor in line with the fuel pump power wire, remove it and bypass it, the only thing that resistor was for was to literally make the fuel pump run quieter because people were complaining about how "harsh" it was but a bad resistor will also cause fuel delivery problems (had that resistor fail and kill a fuel pump due to excessive low voltage burning out the motor on the fuel pump), hopefully its not too bad of a pita to fix, a fuel pressure check should tell you what you need to know, iirc it should be 31psig at idle and 38 with the vacuum disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator, i went with an adjustable and bumped my idle pressure to 33psi and WOT (no vac) pressure to 41ish and that fixed a lot of issues including a strange idle problem i had where it would get really lumpy and rough, then smooth out randomly while idling in gear, all in all, cool build, and she'll be a fun runner once you get the gremlins run out and the bugs squashed, but thats a project for ya', stay safe guys, edit: i just remembered the XJ had a problem in the Renix EFI years of bad grounds, and you could have a sensor ground that is out of spec causing incorrect readings, also C101 is the engine bay computer wiring harness interconnect firewall connection, i.e. your engine management harness so you can remove the engine by disconnecting that one connector and yanking the engine without having to disconnect the engine side of the harness (according to the AMC service manual)
Fuel pump, perhaps? Funny coincidence...I discovered my T-case was bad on my Comanche on a family camping trip! haha. took it to the dunes, went to go out on the sand, and had a horrible banging noise. thought it was the front end gears- but nope....transfer case chain was so slacked it was skipping teeth. Still need to fix it. We should have put together a Comanche trail ride at EJS next year. I'll get my mine done by then!
I had an 87 with a similar running issue. The mounting tab on the distributor housing broke and allowed the distributor to slide out and twist under load. It would run at idle and wot but got progressively worse and finally wouldn’t run at wot. New distributor and a spacer so that the mounting tab tightened flush was the answer for mine.
Fuel pump (check pressure at Shrader valve on fuel rail), vacuum leak. Also, I’ve had bad (new) crank position sensors. I know they’re pain to replace but I would try installing a known good one. I also recommend OE or OEM for that particular sensor.
Check the distributor In those years I'm pretty sure it's a renix generation the distributor not only does timing but it messes with the fuel as well. I had the same problem in my 90 cherokee and my buddies 89 cherokee.
Sounds very much like fuel delivery issues caused by any number of problems. Dodgy wiring getting hot? Fuel line getting hot? Vacuum in fuel tank? Mobile gunk in fuel line/filter? Had last problem with a ride-on mower with very similar symptoms. Or other more esoteric problems many have suggested here. Make a temp fuel delivery to bypass the existing fuel system and see if that rules out fuel line/filter/tank/pump problems. Check if problem occurs straight away after hot restart or fixed straight away after hot restart - that'll begin to help diagnose or narrow it down. Good luck guys.
MOPAR CRANK SENSORS ONLY! I've run into about every weird issue you can image due to the crank sensors on these things. If you used an aftermarket one, pitch it and buy Mopar. NOS or used doesn't matter, Mopar ones actually work. I have had random luck here and there with different part store brands but they all end up creating weird issues at some point that are solved by a Mopar crank sensor. If you're in bizzarro land where its not the crank sensor causing this: - fuel delivery - hook up a gauge to the fuel rail and drive it to see what the pressure does. Could be injectors full of junk if its got good pressure so check those also but unlikely to be the cause. - If its not that, its the Renix mess causing you pain. Ditch it for the HO ignition setup out of a 91-95 XJ. Avoid 96 because of the OB2 crossover year unless you want to deal with that weird mess. (be sure to swap the flexplates if you go HO, they have different holes for the crank sensors.)
I was driving through Moab, just past Rory’s shop, and saw you coming off a side street. Had I known at the time that I wouldn’t make Houston by 3p Friday I’d have stopped to say “Hi”. I do like your content; waiting for more C-10 action with Kaulin.
Check fuel pressure. Also, if you still have a catalytic converter, make sure it's not clogged. I had a Malibu that had the same symptoms, idled fine but fell apart when the gas pedal was pressed. Found the converter was almost completely clogged, choking the engine off. Any woman who will get her hands dirty and run tools back and forth to you with a smile and a sense of humor is a keeper, well done!!!
My daughter’s 90 fj was doing similar. She had a vacuum leak on the little hose that goes from the throttle body to the aic. The fitting was broken. We also did cap, rotor, plugs but the vacuum leak was the culprit on herds
FWIW: My 94 XJ had similar issues as your Comanche. Turned out to be the Cat Converter was pretty plugged / clogged up. Replaced it, and then it ran fine.
RUDY YOUR GRILL IS UPSIDE DOWN
No just flip your phone around 😉
That’s funny. I’ve had 3 Cherokees over the years, an 84,85 and 89. I stripped the 84 down and painted it. I had been driving it for over a year and someone came up to me and said”your grill is on upside down”
What I like about all of you guys is that you drive old stuff. Makes me feel right at home. I have a 1998 Explorer, 2001 Tahoe and a 2004 Dakota. When I go anywhere I put on my mask so nobody knows who I am.
do your old trucks have 50k in parts in them too? they drive new 100k trucks to pull their old stuff. do you have 3 cuz 2 are always broken? i have a 94 toyota with 400k miles
@@carlholland3819 Yep, my 2001 Tahoe is always broken down. As soon as I fix one thing something else brakes. This has been going on for almost 10 years. 1998 Explorer, 276,000 miles. Still going strong. 1992 Ranger I gave to my grand son 356000 miles going strong. 2004 Dakota, 88,000 going strong. I never know when any of these are going to give out. The Tahoe, Explorer and the Dakota aren't worth anything so i just keep driving them and am going to continue driving them until they quit. Can't afford anything new. Can't afford to keep up with the neighbors. Afraid to buy anything new, too expensive to have repaired and too hard and complicated to repair my self.
Regarding the engine running bad, I would check for a drop in fuel pressure while your driving it using a mechanical gauge.
! You found my '87 Wagoneer! Bought one new in San Diego. Definitely not off-roaded but good for two new kids and groceries in the rain. 195 hp 4.0! Has possibilities....
Rudy is back! Missed your adventures.
I love Comanches don't give up on this build. By the way Rudicon looked tough as nails today in Matt's video.
Rudy: I don't wanna get it on me!
Also Rudy: I'll taste it!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Well, there is that. And there is, you have this thing on a trailer(donor wagoner)and instead of bringing it to the shop and or in the shop,(so you are close to all your tools) the work is done 50-100 yards away from the shop. And only AFTER trying to carry it that far does he get a wheel barrow. 🤷♂ Planning does not seem to be his strong suit. 🤣 Which is why at the last minute he is trying to fix it for Easter which is when this was published. 🤔 Plan, KISS and the world can be an easy place to live in. 😉
Good thing I didn't step in it...
To a mechanic’s ear, it sounds like you possibly have a fuel delivery issue, ie. fuel pump on the fritz or plugged filter. I’d check/clean all your grounds as well. It also sounds like you might have a slight ignition timing issue, but that could stem from low fuel delivery under full throttle. If your exhaust smells excessively rich, it might be a timing issue such as your spark advance not advancing. I’ll be waiting to see what you find. Keep up the good work. Enjoy the content and also really digging the Charger.
I could type a whole novel about my experience with the 4.0 running like crap once it warms up but here's a super summarized version. For starters it's an 05 TJ and probably means absolutely nothing to your situation. It started with cam, crank, and 02 sensor codes. After replacing all of that she ran great for about a month but still got some random 02 codes. Then I found something about resetting the computer memory so it can re-learn the new sensors. (Disconnect the positive and touch it to the negative for 30 seconds to discharge the capacitors in the ecm and reconnect, turn ignition to on but not start, headlights on, headlights off, ignotion off) Ran great for a few weeks and then my alternator quit, bought a new one and still no charge. So then I dove into the wiring and found a bunch of ground terminals on the engine that weren't in the best shape and replaced those. Alternator started working and the 02 codes were finally gone but I was back to it going into limp mode after it warmed up but just getting getting crank sensor codes. After nearly setting the jeep on fire to collect the insurance money and countless nights combing through all the "expert opinions" on the forums I kept seeing something about non Mopar sensors being problematic. Luckily I still had my old original sensors and put them back in and reset the computer again without any expectations of it fixing the issue. Well it's been 3 months and she's running perfect for now🤞 Now I just have to tear half the motor apart to replace the rotten freeze plug I've been patching with jb weld to get me through winter. And yes it's an 05 with a rotten freeze plug because I guess jeep saved a ton of money using steel plugs instead of brass🤦♂️🤬
I'm sure my novel won't help you but it might help somebody with way less patience or mechanical aptitude than me to NOT buy an old-ish jeep
I may be wrong but didnt he say it was a renix jeep and wouldnt that mean its a v6?
@@danimal865 No renix is the computer on the older AMC jeeps inlin 6
The problem is that none of the above applies to a Renix Comanche. The Renix ECU doesn't "learn" anything. It's a cold start, every time.
I had a 1998 Jeep yj with 4.0 L six was running much like yours had a warped intake manifold got worse when hot
Machined the head and put new throttle body injector ran like a top after
On the freeze plugs you might find that most often its owners who don't flush out and replace their coolant often enough that have problems with freeze plugs, radiators and heater cores. The anti-corrosion components in coolant do fail over time and the system then needs to be drained, flushed and refilled on a regular schedule before that happens. If you wait until the coolant tests out as bad then damage has most likely already started. I've only had freeze plug issues on used vehicles where the previous owners were lax in flushing the coolant. Same with brake fluid, after two years it has to be replaced to get the best service life from your brakes.
On vehicles I've owned from new that have steel freeze plugs I've gone 20/30 years or longer without an issue just due to following best practice on coolant flushes. Never had a brake line rot out internally or had to replace a wheel cylinder/caliper either due to following a 2 year brake flush schedule. Some will counter that on brakes you only need to flush brake fluid if a test strip inserted in the reservoir shows its bad however that gives you a false sense of security since brake fluid does not recirculate back to the reservoir on most systems so you can end up with pockets of failed acidic brake fluid eating away at various components throughout the system even when a test strip indicates the fluid in the reservoir as good.
Preventative maintenance is much more convenient and cost effective than waiting until something breaks.
On a used vehicle even if the seller "claims" that maintenance is up to date I presume they are mistaken (or worse) and treat it like a vehicle that has not be serviced correctly for a long time. So far judging from what I've found most sellers over the past 50/60 years have been mistaken with a very rare few actually being correct.
On the codes you really need to look past just code reading and start looking at the data logs after putting on your Dick Tracy hat otherwise you end up like Inspector Clouseau bumbling along and accidentally stumbling upon the solution after a prolonged ordeal.
Glad you found the root cause in the bad grounds which is why I tell the kids to check all your grounds first before doing anything else.
Best!
Rudy - Call the Bleepin jeep buddies and do an episode together to troubleshoot the Comanche problems. They could probably trouble shoot this blindfolded. Hope I'm not giving them too much credit but ''share'' each other as a resource to solve the problem. Love the videos you put out - keep learning as you go - you get better every episode.
Mine was doing the same thing. Fixed it with a 5.3 😂
Rudy I love your channel.
I did not read all of the comments so this may have been said already. My 1989 Cherokee with the 4,0 had the same problem where it would not rev up. If it has a catalytic converter it is plugged. To fix it disconnect the rear exhaust pipe. Take a long bar and ram it in the converter. I used a long digging bar. Keep doing this until you break through the other side. You want to have a large hole all the way through the converter. Reattach the exhaust pipe and your go to go.
I have a Renix Comanche. First thing you should check is to see if the header bolts for the intake and exhaust are tight. It is common for those bolts to be loose and cause a big intake leak. You did good to refresh all of the sensors and grounds.
I had the same thing happen with mine. But mine came down to a crack in my distributor cap, once it warmed up it started running like crap.
So good to see Janelle again!!
Fuel pump for sure, I had the same issue.
Janelle is the best girlfriend a guy could have. She is so supportive and gets right in there and helps out. Also she's awesome with a camera. Looking forward to the next video from EJS.
6:16 your girl popping in to say its broken, is CLASSIC
I knew it was the transfer case when he shifted it into park. I heard the parking pawl grind. They do the same thing if you cram it into park while moving too fast. ;)
My exact thoughts.
Great to seeing you are back! What about the C 10?
the early model engines used a soft lobe cam and over time the lobes junk out and do exactly what yours is doing you can replace the cam but i would go v8 or v6 my self
Love the channel, Actually as a life long jeep guy I ran 258’s for a long time and all I had experience with was the 4.0 HO and I thought it was garbage, threw 2 rods in ours. Then just this year I bought a Renix Comanche. I absolutely live it. 224 at 2500 vs 3-4k in the Ho for 225. Deletable emissions, everything is simple.
Rudy anytime Janelle shows up in your videos makes them better 😊
Robert you are being weird again
@@TurkeySandwichJr just staing the truth dude
I bought a Comanche when they came out. Specced it to be an economical commute vehicle for the Winter months and nothing else planned for it. Few options, 4x4 but nothing off-road-ee. 4 cyl. with the 5 speed manual. Whoa did I love that vehicle and used the livin' heck outta it. Had more adventures than I ever dreamed of (including a couple of saved-my-ass moments). Owned it for, like, ten years, no major mechanical issues, but rust finally hit, and things like the headliner dropping, just age issues. Then I got t-boned. Sad day.
By the way it’s behaving I would take a guess between the fuel pump is causing an issue or possible a fuel pressure regulator could be an issue too
I had the same thought. I was leaning towards the regulator, or fuel return line.
Or vakuum in the tank?
Check the fuel filter first
Check the " No Knock Sensor " .
That’s such a cool truck! I love it! Hope you can figure out the issue! The lift and tires look amazing!
Thanks for sharing 👍. And happy Easter to you and your family.
To me it seems like a fuel delivery issue
Try changing the fuel pump with a known good one, that would confirm if the one in there now is good or bad, also check/change fuel filter(s).
My YJ had this very same problem. It turned out to be the strainer in the tank getting filled with junk. It would run great for the first couple minutes when the junk settles to the bottom then cut out.
My thoughts exactly. .possible fuel filter plugging or pump gitn super weak. .
Try changing filters/strain for the fuel, if you got water in the fuel those filter clog up REAL fast
I was thinking the samething during the test drive Rudy
Rudy I wish you did more videos. Watching some of the stuff you do inspires me to be more creative with my on-going JLU build.
As far as the 231 transfer case, I found several 208 transfer cases in customers vehicles that when the shift fork got worn out that coming to a stop (like a stop light) the excessive wear in the fork allowed the annulus gear to slide forward on the shaft spines (inertia) into neutral. A quick fix to drive it home/shop is to shift it into four wheel drive. You may have experienced the same scenario with the broken shift fork on the 231 and it’s range fork shift hub. Of course you weren’t able to shift it with a broken fork.
Did you check fuel pressure? I would also check compression. Someone made a comment about the exhaust system and I agree with that.
Ya might wanna check your gas cap. Mine did the same thing and I swapped the gas cap. Problem solved. That model had the remix ecm in it
Mopar upgraded them. All these vehicles have electrical Grimlins Dandahermit
The two most common problems with the RENIX 4.0L. are CPS and fuel ballast resistor. Known problems with "new" CPS. Only get the NAPA or OEM ones, others have quality issues. Ballast resistor can be bypassed to make it run until you get a new one. Cruiser54 is a great resource for the Comanche. Almost all of the problems(and fixes) in one place. I love mine, and hope to see yours on the trail soon.
When he listed off what all he replaced I immediately thought the same on the CPS. And +1 on Cruiser, dude's a Renix professor.
Same thing here. My 90 XJ ran just like the comanche, replaced the CPS and didn't help. My issues came from the harness. 23 year old Mopar wiring against a hot block does some serious damage. I diag'd the wiring and values were good, until one time they weren't. The engine would heat the wiring and short it out, but intermittently. I suggest pulling the CPS wiring harness all the way back and check it.
👍 I was trying to remember it's correct name that dang ballast resistor if it corroded, cracked or damaged. A replacement one years ago was a PTA to find in early 2000s.
The fuel pump ballast resistor is only there to reduce fuel pump noise...delete the silly thing on any wheeler! X2 on Cruiser54's Mostly Renix info stash, invaluable for any Renix owner.
Did you check the coil? There was a recall on them in the early 90's. Had 2 go bad on me with 2 different symptoms. One, intermittent miss under a load causing reduced power and the other engine would only run at idle.
Check the timing once it warms up. My 88xj had issues with that. I've also had the same transfer case problem.
Don’t give up on it! I would love to see more content with the truck!
Oh man your bring back my younger days of doing that stuff lol
Thx man👊💯🙌🙏
Check the engine grounds by the dipstick tube. shite ground will cause lots of weird running issues.
Had a similar issue idle fine falls flat on its fave under load. Final diagnosis was a bad stator in the distributor. Replaced the distributor and has ran great ever since
Seems to be a fuel related issue to me. Could be wrong but a good place to start anyway.
I had a 96 yj doing the same thing before turned out the injector harness was bad got some new pigtails and solved the problem good luck!
Distributor or the breaker plate under the cap.
Those ignition coils are known to go bad and start cross firing when they get warm but it sounded more like a throttle position sensor issue in the video. I had a 97 Wrangler that ran like that when the T.P.S went bad, but I had to keep driving it like that because it was too new at the time to get an aftermarket replacement and the dealer took a week so it sucked. Lol
Great video guys....excellent content.....fixing and repairs....thanks for sharing this with us
I'd be looking at the spark side coil distributor leads, coils do brake down when they get hot and under load but will run fine at idle
Had S10 chev pickup do same thing acted like a fuel problem, was a bad coil going out
Yes me too. Got close to 1000000 miles total pass 3 trucks. Every time its been ignition modular
ok so heres my take on your Waggy, just like my 1987 2 dr XJ, its a holy grail wagoneer, its the last year of AMC, and the first year of the 4.0 in the XJs. now, if youre really lucky it will have the factory towing package with the rear Dana44 and limited slip diff like my XJ, which was only available 87-90 in XJs, its much more common in MJ Comanches. your Boston is awesome he should be in every video👍👍
Got me an 88 2dr just swapped from closed to open cooling system this weekend and upgraded the trac bar and mount. Got a small coolant leak from the waterpump inlet tube, should have used pipe sealer rather than Teflon tape😑
2 thoughts, vacuum leak or half blocked fuel filter. For vac leak test, get the motor running rough, then spray tiny bursts of butane close in around the induction system. If the engine note smooths, shes sucking in butane at that spot instead of air. Long bbq lighters with the flint disabled should be quite accurate and reach difficult places. Face shield on, extinguisher beside you and definitely outdoors with pauses to let unburnt butane disapate. But ive never had an issue doing it with due care - and am safely in New Zealand!
Rudy, Low fuel pressure! So, the fix; New Air filter, New Fuel filter, New Fuel Tank Sock, New Fuel Pump, New Fuel regulator and throttle position sensor in that order is all that is left. That's it, ready to rock! No charge
Did everyone going to EJS wait until the last few days to get their rigs ready?
Yes.
Pretty odd question. Lol
Of course they did. When else would everybody start fixing their stuff. If you don't have a deadline, no project ever gets done. I thought everyone knew that.
@@jasonstrout4502 Very true. I've been guilty of it myself.
@@MattsOffRoadRecovery OMG, I got a reply from MORR on Rudy's channel. This is the best Easter ever - lol. Happy Easter MORR crew
I had the same issue! I know you said you tried a crank position sensor, but I would try another one. I went down the list like you did, to the point I was pulling my hair out. Warrantied my crank position sensor, replaced it again and fixed it. Best of luck, let us know what you find.
My first vehicle I bought after graduation was a 1984 wagoner limited select-trac,
Put a 4" rancho lift and wheeled it.
Nice way to grow up.
I think it's the blinker fluid sensor, if it shorts out it'll start running like a blinker, off and on, off and on.
Have a hippidy hoppidy holiday 😊
Blinker fluid is only on the early Dodge Vipers. True fact, you can see the fluid level in a little tube in the headlights. ruclips.net/video/LXe4LRuc1f0/видео.html
Sorry for my bad technical English in advance. I had a similar behaving car a few years ago. It was the ABS sensor in the rear axel (I'm not sure if your Comanche has got ABS) which was coroded and sent false signals to the main computer.... Took us quite some time and tries to find but after changing it the car was driving fine (normal throttle response) and is still today. All the best from Germany, Maximilian.
Rudy, I know very little about cars, but I have encountered a situation where a clogged exhaust caused similar things. The one I seen had a Muddobbers nest in it. Just a possible issue. You’ll figure it out 👍👍
Good idea but our ears tell us different though.
It was a great idea to leave the drip pan sitting directly under the transfer case to soften the blow as it fell free. I wonder if the mystery fluid makes good rust inhibitor? That part of the video made a real SPLASH.
Rudy it seems like a fuel pick up issue because it doesn't seem to get enough fuel when you push on the throttle. Something seems to be restricting fuel. I know you will get it figured out. I hope you guys have a good time at Easter Jeep.
Are you going to be building a rock crawler for Janelle? In my opinion she definitely needs one because I know she will be great at it
I had that once, it ended up being the fuel pump on mine, good luck.
At the beginning you got in the Comanche and ran it through the gears. When you put it in park, I could hear the parking pawl clicking clicking across the spinning gears of a working transmission. At least the transfer case was an easy fix. Good luck with the engine issues.
Hopefully it is as simple as a plugged fuel filter or pickup screen in the tank
Could it be as simple as a gunked up fuel filter? I know almost nothing about mechanic work, but it reminds me of an old work truck I once had to drive around. Good luck sir and happy Easter to you and yours.
Just an idea but check harness plugs and see if they have wiggle room. Chased an issue with my 4.0 GC forever. Was the harness plug on the coil intermittently wiggling loose
My grandpa had one of these until he couldn’t drive anymore. I’d love to have one some day. Cool little truck
My 89 Comanche did similar, I found two issues. The hose disconnected from the fuel pump in the tank, and the bolt for the TPS was stripped and not holding it in place. A clamp on the hose and a heli-coil in the throttle body solved the issues. Hope this helps point the right direction.
Rudy tastes unknown liquid. Starts whole new pandemic. 😂
Andromeda Fluid. 😶🌫️
😂
Following the lead of the Car Wizard, taste to determine the fluid
Some possible sources are intake manifold gasket, EGR valve, water in the gas tank - especially if it runs ok cold but gets bad when warm.
I had the same issue on my ‘88 Wagoneer Limited, a twin to the one you’ve got. And it ended up being the flex plate, if you swapped flex plates with the new transmission make sure it’s one from another renix, and ones from the parts stores do not work either, the holes are punched incorrectly
I have worked on a few Comanches with that problem found it to be the exhaust system not enough compression for the motor or not enough getting out good luck
I had a 95 ZJ with the 4.0 It did the exact same thing your MJ is doing. It ran fine at cold temp until warm. I replaced the o2 sensor. Has been fine ever since.
Comanche club is the place to go, post a thread about how yours is running and they will have your problem
Also go to cruiser 54’s renix tips
3 things I can think of being the problem, fuel pump going out, gunk in fuel tank/ filter, then the ceramic resister if it's cracked or damaged, corroded wires that can do that. The first two have been mentioned by others. I got my 90 XJ back from shoddy work done and had that part I commented on busted. I had some issues like it's showing. I'm coming up blank on the correct name for it right now. Now on a good note, the block in that time frame Comanche is possible the diamond in the rough, extra heavy casting block. Great opportunity for building a stroker (4.5- 4.7) motor, then drop 91/92 heads, etc, on. I got one in a 86 Comanche I got for a project in 99-00.
Had the same issue with my 02 TJ and it ended up being the crank sensor. It was replaced with a new cheap sensor that didn't work. Ended up getting an OEM and ensure proper air gap and good as new.
It could be a bunch of things that make it run rough like that. I've had a clogged up catalytic converter cause problems like that. It idols fine, but when you try to increase the air flow (especially after it has warmed up) it just chokes up the engine and runs crappy. It's pretty easy to just open up the exhaust somewhere upstream of the catalytic converter and see if that makes a difference. Good luck finding the problem.
Nice to see your better half
1. Distributor/coil/ground
2. jumped time a tooth
3. Wiring woes
I've just chased that gremlin on one of my G20 TBI Chevy's
My 91 Cherokee developed a small miss. We found #6 plug fouled out and replaced it... only for it to do it again. And got worse as time went on. A compression check showed bad on #6 only. Ended up a hole in the piston.
Hopefully yours isn't that serious, but might be worth a check.
Really enjoy the videos!!!
Timing chain, cam position sensor. And there is a small Allen or torx screw on the renix throttle body to set idle A/F ratio. Ask me how I know😂
check the pickup coil for cracks or possible ignition timeing
I had a 4.0 do that to me as well, it was a bad head gasket. There are a few test to run to rule that in or out, but sometimes we always assume all problems are electronic and forget to cover the basics.
The N/P on my Ford worked great. One day I came out of the field and found a coffee can with a cap and bearing parts . The land owner said is this yours? lol When you were putting it back in park and heard the clickety from the Parking mechanism I had doubts the trans was bad. With the Comanche it sounds like water in the gas. Quick fix, sell it to me. I love those square body pickups.
I wondered - when I heard the parking Pawl ratcheting away when you put it in park. Glad it was T case , cheaper, easier and quicker repair! Good work!!
Enjoying the Comanche build. Can’t wait for tons and 40’s!!!
For that rough running after it gets warm, you may need to check your head, or block where the head meets, for warping, allowing a piston to leak when warm (Happens especially to the number 1 and number 6 pistons). I've seen 3 of those inline six engines do that. Heads and block milled flat, and they run great. If you do have that issue, I'd go ahead and rebuild the engine, and possibly have it bored a few thousandths over, while you have it out.
I would like to have one of those Comanches, myself.
Check the ignition system and distributor (Cam Sensor) on the Comanche. Also there was a recall for the fuel injector wiring in 2005. look for the bulletin.
i don't remember if the comanchee has it or not, but on the '87-'90 XJ there is a connector at the firewall the manual calls it "C-101" and this connector tends to vibrate around and the connections loosen up, disconnecting C101 and cleaning it with a good contact cleaner, then tightening it back down will fix 90% of the running issues, the way to deal with all the problems C101 creates is to literally chop it out and move it over one circuit at a time removing the connector completely from the circuit, also if you have that stupid 1.1Ohm resistor in line with the fuel pump power wire, remove it and bypass it, the only thing that resistor was for was to literally make the fuel pump run quieter because people were complaining about how "harsh" it was but a bad resistor will also cause fuel delivery problems (had that resistor fail and kill a fuel pump due to excessive low voltage burning out the motor on the fuel pump), hopefully its not too bad of a pita to fix, a fuel pressure check should tell you what you need to know, iirc it should be 31psig at idle and 38 with the vacuum disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator, i went with an adjustable and bumped my idle pressure to 33psi and WOT (no vac) pressure to 41ish and that fixed a lot of issues including a strange idle problem i had where it would get really lumpy and rough, then smooth out randomly while idling in gear, all in all, cool build, and she'll be a fun runner once you get the gremlins run out and the bugs squashed, but thats a project for ya', stay safe guys, edit: i just remembered the XJ had a problem in the Renix EFI years of bad grounds, and you could have a sensor ground that is out of spec causing incorrect readings, also C101 is the engine bay computer wiring harness interconnect firewall connection, i.e. your engine management harness so you can remove the engine by disconnecting that one connector and yanking the engine without having to disconnect the engine side of the harness (according to the AMC service manual)
Have you checked for Fuel being too hot at the injectors. 4.0 had a heat issue, and a heat shield and injector wrap help wonders.
I say fuel delivery and/or timing. Good luck. I love the Comanche, don't give up on it.
Fuel pump, perhaps? Funny coincidence...I discovered my T-case was bad on my Comanche on a family camping trip! haha. took it to the dunes, went to go out on the sand, and had a horrible banging noise. thought it was the front end gears- but nope....transfer case chain was so slacked it was skipping teeth. Still need to fix it. We should have put together a Comanche trail ride at EJS next year. I'll get my mine done by then!
I had an 87 with a similar running issue. The mounting tab on the distributor housing broke and allowed the distributor to slide out and twist under load. It would run at idle and wot but got progressively worse and finally wouldn’t run at wot. New distributor and a spacer so that the mounting tab tightened flush was the answer for mine.
Fuel pump (check pressure at Shrader valve on fuel rail), vacuum leak. Also, I’ve had bad (new) crank position sensors. I know they’re pain to replace but I would try installing a known good one. I also recommend OE or OEM for that particular sensor.
Check the ignition control modual in the distributor
Check the distributor
In those years I'm pretty sure it's a renix generation the distributor not only does timing but it messes with the fuel as well. I had the same problem in my 90 cherokee and my buddies 89 cherokee.
Aka broken. Love the summation & delivery, Janelle
Me too, maybe fuel pressure regulator? Or a plugging filter, or a pickup issue or sock?
Rudy you are the man , I'd love to see you build something to complete with the morrvair !!!
Sounds very much like fuel delivery issues caused by any number of problems. Dodgy wiring getting hot? Fuel line getting hot? Vacuum in fuel tank? Mobile gunk in fuel line/filter? Had last problem with a ride-on mower with very similar symptoms. Or other more esoteric problems many have suggested here. Make a temp fuel delivery to bypass the existing fuel system and see if that rules out fuel line/filter/tank/pump problems. Check if problem occurs straight away after hot restart or fixed straight away after hot restart - that'll begin to help diagnose or narrow it down. Good luck guys.
MOPAR CRANK SENSORS ONLY! I've run into about every weird issue you can image due to the crank sensors on these things. If you used an aftermarket one, pitch it and buy Mopar. NOS or used doesn't matter, Mopar ones actually work. I have had random luck here and there with different part store brands but they all end up creating weird issues at some point that are solved by a Mopar crank sensor.
If you're in bizzarro land where its not the crank sensor causing this:
- fuel delivery - hook up a gauge to the fuel rail and drive it to see what the pressure does. Could be injectors full of junk if its got good pressure so check those also but unlikely to be the cause.
- If its not that, its the Renix mess causing you pain. Ditch it for the HO ignition setup out of a 91-95 XJ. Avoid 96 because of the OB2 crossover year unless you want to deal with that weird mess. (be sure to swap the flexplates if you go HO, they have different holes for the crank sensors.)
I was driving through Moab, just past Rory’s shop, and saw you coming off a side street. Had I known at the time that I wouldn’t make Houston by 3p Friday I’d have stopped to say “Hi”.
I do like your content; waiting for more C-10 action with Kaulin.
Check fuel pressure. Also, if you still have a catalytic converter, make sure it's not clogged. I had a Malibu that had the same symptoms, idled fine but fell apart when the gas pedal was pressed. Found the converter was almost completely clogged, choking the engine off. Any woman who will get her hands dirty and run tools back and forth to you with a smile and a sense of humor is a keeper, well done!!!
My daughter’s 90 fj was doing similar. She had a vacuum leak on the little hose that goes from the throttle body to the aic. The fitting was broken.
We also did cap, rotor, plugs but the vacuum leak was the culprit on herds
FWIW: My 94 XJ had similar issues as your Comanche. Turned out to be the Cat Converter was pretty plugged / clogged up. Replaced it, and then it ran fine.
MAF, controls fuel ramping.
Idle issues are from probe temp vs resistance. Replace.
Nice to see you fixing the car then! Sad that is was not running good!
The only things you didn't check was the pick up in the dizzy and the oxygen sensors, I have had those go bad in the past causing similar issues
Cool truck, maybe fuel supply issues since that wasn't mentioned as attended to. Good luck!