Well here’s an update. I rearranged the fixtures and added more, and put mercury vapor bulbs in all the fixtures and added a high pressure sodium to the mix. That was the point of the install, it takes me back to my childhood where every gym I went to school at had these all the way through high school and early adult years until the mass replacements occurred with those dreaded T5 fluorescents. ruclips.net/video/OHfTwh9JQAQ/видео.htmlsi=YZYgM-4Mj2vaQWh0
Really neat setup! That Mercury Vapor looks like the ones in my Elementary School gym so perhaps that's what kind they were! Usually had a blue/white light when fully warmed up! Though they often cycled at the end of their life before they had new bulbs put in them!
Metal halide highbay is very rare here, most of our highbay here is mercury vapor and it's yellow when reached full brightness, metal halide is used for floodlights and gas station lighting, while some purplish mercury vapors are used to be very common here before it got replace to the sodium vapor lamps, many of the outdoor or indoor lighting is the t8 fluorescent lights running on the preheat, the 4foot t8s here is 36w
I have also imported some European 36W T8 fluorescent tubes into the USA and they seem to work fine on our single lamp 40W T12 preheat ballasts, but they have some problems operating on some 2 lamp 40W T12 lead-lag ballasts, but on some older 2 lamp lead-lag ballasts, they work beautifully but they prefer using European starters over North American starters.
perhaps get some magnetically ballasted fluorescent fixtures and replace the LED with a few, and maybe try to find a LPS/SOX fixture to put in between the MV fixture and the MH fixture closest to the door
The spectrum is better as well..and no weird high contrast super sharp colors that cause macular degeneration and destroy your peripheral night vision. Also no switch mode power supply or wi-fi emitting god knows what kind of EMF noise that fucks up our body's frequency. LED I believe is just being thrown upon us as weaponized autism. In some applications LED can work but I'm not putting a DC diode in place of the glow of incandescent or other analog lighting.
Neat setup this is what i wanna do eith my workshop in my 100x50 foot barn. Minus ceiling fans. Although i did install ceiling fans for air flow of course. But for my workshop my main ligjts are t12s and two led shop lights. I found 60w t12 bulbs that were 5900 lumens a peice for 8ft fixtures so thats 100 lumen per watt nearly which is amazing for t12. I can deff tell though the led seem a little brighter even though the lumens on paper are less.. i dont like the led shop lights though because i noticed they interfear with radio. But i deff wanna hang mercory vapor halide and hps ligjts in the shop. But on my property as a whole i use two 150w flood hps. Two 150w dusk to dawn two 100w a 70w and three 50w hps. To light up my driveway.. gate.. my other building. And i use three 175 mv to light up my parking spots on a 30ft pole. Ive been messingvwith bulbs for the mv. Clear bulbs have that nice blue green color. But even though the lumens might claim to be the same. Those frosted mercury vapor bulbs seem way brighter. I have two on that 30ft pole and when i had a brand new old stock clear bulb in one and brand new westinghouse frosted in the other. I noticed how drasticly brighter the frosted white bulb seemed. When i turned off the clear bulb fixture it was almost as if it wasnt helping with illumination lol. It must be the CRI of the clear only being like 20.. and the frosted i believe is like 60 for the CRI. Kinda like how HPS cri is only 22 or so. And eveb though it claims say 16k lumens for the 150w.. a white light will seem brighter
I’m working on getting some 1940s preheats and some Mercury Vapor HID high bay lights from an abandoned brick plant, there’s also lots of 50s fluorescents and some 60s Westinghouse preheats. I am working on finding a way to do it without stealing even tho it’s abandoned
Id steal em lol sorry.. abandond. 1940s.. you know if they ever use that building again they will toss the ligjts out. Like power companies that replace the hps and mercory vapor ligjts for leds. They just toss the old lights. Litterally. My friend from the power company just gives me old fixtures he removes for leds. Otherwise theyd go in the garbage
Coated metal halide bulbs are better indoors than clear because they are less glary and still very bright, they are also easier on the eyes. I don’t get why people use clear MH indoors. They work great outdoors but indoors I think coated is a much better choice.
I have actually ran North American 400W M59 probe start metal halide lamps on North American 400W H33 mercury vapor ballasts before and the ballasts did not seem to mind the probe start metal halide lamps at all because 400W H33 mercury vapor lamps run at the same arc voltage drop (135V) and operating current (3.25A) as 400W M59 probe start metal halide lamps. Although it has been established that you can clearly run same wattage mercury vapor lamps on North American probe start metal halide ballasts with the exception of 1000W H34 mercury vapor lamps, IT IS possible to do the opposite: running probe start metal halide lamps on same wattage mercury vapor ballasts as well. However, since most mercury vapor ballasts have a lower OCV than same wattage probe start metal halide ballasts, you can wire a European Philips SI51 2 wire parallel ignitor in parallel with the lamp to get a probe start metal halide lamp to reliably start on the low OCV of those mercury vapor ballasts. The reason as to why the European Philips SI51 ignitor is safe to use on probe start metal halide lamps is because it delivers a very low ignition pulse of only 750V-1000V, which is gentle on the starting probe and resistor of probe start metal halide lamps and ensures that the lamps strike an arc on the first try. I also used that same ignitor to reliably run 175W M57 probe start metal halide lamps on a 175W H39 mercury vapor yardblaster as well. Although I have been succesful with these lamp/ballast combinations, I do not recommend using them in public electrical installations where electrical code enforcement is often conducted.
It sure was. I replaced it soon after with another HID. But now we made that area another part of the shop. You got to see the lighting and fan install we have now. Here’s a video from my friend who I go in on the space with. ruclips.net/video/65Ee0xNHhHU/видео.html
Depends. Most of these fixtures look to be 100-175w mercury vapor or halides. A 175mv fixtures running 12 hours a day for dusk to dawn outdoor lights.. use 10$ a month in power .13 cents per kwh . In a barn or workshop.. how often will you be running those lights for 12hours a day ?? probly not often.. So in reality it really isnt alot of power usage. Now if you use this shop daily for work like 8-10 hours a day. Then sure led would be a better choice.. Like t12 shop lights vs LED shop ligjts. My four t12 8 foot fixtures use two 60w bulbs. So 120w each. Put out 12k lumens. My two 8ft led shop ligjts use 74w of power and put out roughly 8900 lumens. The led is more efficient. But im in that shop only a few times a week for a few hours each time. In reality im using more energy with a single 175mv dusk to dawn light being on nightly than i am with 700w of shop lights on for only a few hours a week. Led lights in place of incandescent ligjts are nice. I use them for the middle of ny barn and my stalls where i just have regular screw in bulb fixtures. But i still prefer t12s over LED. Led interfears with radio signals.
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Ahh that old school lighting and the hum of all of those ballasts! SWEEEEEEET!!!!
Well here’s an update. I rearranged the fixtures and added more, and put mercury vapor bulbs in all the fixtures and added a high pressure sodium to the mix. That was the point of the install, it takes me back to my childhood where every gym I went to school at had these all the way through high school and early adult years until the mass replacements occurred with those dreaded T5 fluorescents. ruclips.net/video/OHfTwh9JQAQ/видео.htmlsi=YZYgM-4Mj2vaQWh0
Really neat setup! That Mercury Vapor looks like the ones in my Elementary School gym so perhaps that's what kind they were! Usually had a blue/white light when fully warmed up! Though they often cycled at the end of their life before they had new bulbs put in them!
I love the mercury vapors and metal hilades.
You're absolutely right, it's fun to start and has a soul unlike LED lighting that just starts at the highest brightness with no feelings
Metal halide highbay is very rare here, most of our highbay here is mercury vapor and it's yellow when reached full brightness, metal halide is used for floodlights and gas station lighting, while some purplish mercury vapors are used to be very common here before it got replace to the sodium vapor lamps, many of the outdoor or indoor lighting is the t8 fluorescent lights running on the preheat, the 4foot t8s here is 36w
I have also imported some European 36W T8 fluorescent tubes into the USA and they seem to work fine on our single lamp 40W T12 preheat ballasts, but they have some problems operating on some 2 lamp 40W T12 lead-lag ballasts, but on some older 2 lamp lead-lag ballasts, they work beautifully but they prefer using European starters over North American starters.
perhaps get some magnetically ballasted fluorescent fixtures and replace the LED with a few, and maybe try to find a LPS/SOX fixture to put in between the MV fixture and the MH fixture closest to the door
Im jealous of that barn.
metal halides last longer than cheap leds when bulb burns out you change the bulb when the led fails you have to replace the fixture
Oh yeah. Also I cannot stand to see halides/mercury vapor fixtures fall victim to corn cob bulbs.
@@MetalPete_the_metalfan keep metal halides please
Ok gn v kann gn von einem und 55
The spectrum is better as well..and no weird high contrast super sharp colors that cause macular degeneration and destroy your peripheral night vision. Also no switch mode power supply or wi-fi emitting god knows what kind of EMF noise that fucks up our body's frequency. LED I believe is just being thrown upon us as weaponized autism. In some applications LED can work but I'm not putting a DC diode in place of the glow of incandescent or other analog lighting.
Neat setup this is what i wanna do eith my workshop in my 100x50 foot barn. Minus ceiling fans. Although i did install ceiling fans for air flow of course.
But for my workshop my main ligjts are t12s and two led shop lights. I found 60w t12 bulbs that were 5900 lumens a peice for 8ft fixtures so thats 100 lumen per watt nearly which is amazing for t12.
I can deff tell though the led seem a little brighter even though the lumens on paper are less.. i dont like the led shop lights though because i noticed they interfear with radio.
But i deff wanna hang mercory vapor halide and hps ligjts in the shop.
But on my property as a whole i use two 150w flood hps. Two 150w dusk to dawn two 100w a 70w and three 50w hps. To light up my driveway.. gate.. my other building.
And i use three 175 mv to light up my parking spots on a 30ft pole.
Ive been messingvwith bulbs for the mv. Clear bulbs have that nice blue green color. But even though the lumens might claim to be the same. Those frosted mercury vapor bulbs seem way brighter. I have two on that 30ft pole and when i had a brand new old stock clear bulb in one and brand new westinghouse frosted in the other. I noticed how drasticly brighter the frosted white bulb seemed. When i turned off the clear bulb fixture it was almost as if it wasnt helping with illumination lol.
It must be the CRI of the clear only being like 20.. and the frosted i believe is like 60 for the CRI.
Kinda like how HPS cri is only 22 or so. And eveb though it claims say 16k lumens for the 150w.. a white light will seem brighter
Heads up, fans are next to go up in this area of the barn shop.
Nice bright!
I’m working on getting some 1940s preheats and some Mercury Vapor HID high bay lights from an abandoned brick plant, there’s also lots of 50s fluorescents and some 60s Westinghouse preheats. I am working on finding a way to do it without stealing even tho it’s abandoned
Id steal em lol sorry.. abandond. 1940s.. you know if they ever use that building again they will toss the ligjts out. Like power companies that replace the hps and mercory vapor ligjts for leds. They just toss the old lights. Litterally. My friend from the power company just gives me old fixtures he removes for leds. Otherwise theyd go in the garbage
Coated metal halide bulbs are better indoors than clear because they are less glary and still very bright, they are also easier on the eyes. I don’t get why people use clear MH indoors. They work great outdoors but indoors I think coated is a much better choice.
I have actually ran North American 400W M59 probe start metal halide lamps on North American 400W H33 mercury vapor ballasts before and the ballasts did not seem to mind the probe start metal halide lamps at all because 400W H33 mercury vapor lamps run at the same arc voltage drop (135V) and operating current (3.25A) as 400W M59 probe start metal halide lamps. Although it has been established that you can clearly run same wattage mercury vapor lamps on North American probe start metal halide ballasts with the exception of 1000W H34 mercury vapor lamps, IT IS possible to do the opposite: running probe start metal halide lamps on same wattage mercury vapor ballasts as well. However, since most mercury vapor ballasts have a lower OCV than same wattage probe start metal halide ballasts, you can wire a European Philips SI51 2 wire parallel ignitor in parallel with the lamp to get a probe start metal halide lamp to reliably start on the low OCV of those mercury vapor ballasts. The reason as to why the European Philips SI51 ignitor is safe to use on probe start metal halide lamps is because it delivers a very low ignition pulse of only 750V-1000V, which is gentle on the starting probe and resistor of probe start metal halide lamps and ensures that the lamps strike an arc on the first try. I also used that same ignitor to reliably run 175W M57 probe start metal halide lamps on a 175W H39 mercury vapor yardblaster as well.
Although I have been succesful with these lamp/ballast combinations, I do not recommend using them in public electrical installations where electrical code enforcement is often conducted.
The stupid led was absolutely destroyed from the powerful mercury vapor , metal halide bulbs 😂
It sure was. I replaced it soon after with another HID. But now we made that area another part of the shop. You got to see the lighting and fan install we have now. Here’s a video from my friend who I go in on the space with. ruclips.net/video/65Ee0xNHhHU/видео.html
Nice !
Must be a huge power consumption
Not really. Definitely not as huge as a school running a huge dozen in the gym every day from early morning to late night.
Depends. Most of these fixtures look to be 100-175w mercury vapor or halides.
A 175mv fixtures running 12 hours a day for dusk to dawn outdoor lights.. use 10$ a month in power .13 cents per kwh . In a barn or workshop.. how often will you be running those lights for 12hours a day ?? probly not often.. So in reality it really isnt alot of power usage. Now if you use this shop daily for work like 8-10 hours a day. Then sure led would be a better choice..
Like t12 shop lights vs LED shop ligjts. My four t12 8 foot fixtures use two 60w bulbs. So 120w each. Put out 12k lumens. My two 8ft led shop ligjts use 74w of power and put out roughly 8900 lumens. The led is more efficient. But im in that shop only a few times a week for a few hours each time.
In reality im using more energy with a single 175mv dusk to dawn light being on nightly than i am with 700w of shop lights on for only a few hours a week.
Led lights in place of incandescent ligjts are nice. I use them for the middle of ny barn and my stalls where i just have regular screw in bulb fixtures. But i still prefer t12s over LED.
Led interfears with radio signals.
Yo las colecciono
electric companies change led to earn money there is no reason to phase out hps lamps while they are much cheaper
ruclips.net/video/pnx22ZPjleQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/lQGYYr8qlK0/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/A_erb9BoA_M/видео.html
Hi I have a kenmore canister vacuum cleaner
I have a few of those various eras.
@@MetalPete_the_metalfan I have a blue Progressive if you still have it could you make an update video of it