I had 3 (2000-2001) dodge ram 2500 Magnum with service bodies. Down to the last one now, with 240,XXX on the clock. Some notable conditions I can attest to after putting nearly 700,000 miles on these trucks combined are as follows: - Plenum gasket (hughes engines makes a great kit with an aluminum plate) -Cracked heads (current engine has 3 cracks in the head, still runs and drives perfectly fine) They were known for weak casting between the exhaust and intake valves, and are really susceptible to cracking there. -SUPER MILD stock cams. you can drop in some off the shelf cams and get much better HP and torque curves. I've never done it, but the data, parts, and testimonies are out there -Timing chain - routine maintenance, upgrade to a double roller and your good for 200k-ish. -ABS Control module - They no longer manufacturer them, you can still find functioning used ones out there for around $350 -Front end - Constantly rebuild the front ends at 50,000 miles. -Fuel Pumps and Filters - Had 3 fuel pumps just die while driving, also the fuel filter is not in line, it is in the pump itself, so you can't service fuel filter. -46/47/48 RE are trash. Known problem. Most times is starts with broken overdrive spring, governor pressure solenoid, governor pressure switch. Also, these have adjustable bands. should properly adjust your bands every 30,000 miles at trans service. Most I got out of a stock trans was 212,000. Upgraded them to stage 2, with Deep Trans pan (holds extra four quarts) and oversized trans cooler, with shift kits. Temps never risen over 190 when towing in Texas heat. -The dashes crack, plenty of caps or full dash/bezel replacements on aftermarket -they are SERIOUSLY underbraked. you can put 3rd gen brakes on, but need to run a minimum of a 17" wheel to clear the bigger calipers. (no need to upgrade master cylinder) -the Voltage regulator is in the CPU, so if you have an alternator fry, it can sometimes blow the Volt Reg in CPU and you need to get a new CPU. -Exhaust leaks, cracked manifolds, broken exhaust pipes, fact of life -The power steering boxes leaked on all of mine easy replacement -Perform regular maintenance (plugs, wires, cap, button,) Service trans every 30K (bands, fluid, filter) run 91 or higher octane to fight ping, I run full Synth Mobil 1, Give them a nice seafoam treatment every 5-10K. -My Upgrades: Hughes RPM intake manifold, Big Gulp Throttle Body, K&N CAI, Electric fan kit, Deep trans pan, oversized trans cooler, 160A Alternator, Dual batteries, 4.10 gears, stage 2 trans, shift kit, Accel ignition, 180 degree t-stat,
@@8020Media Cool of you to reach out brother! You have a big channel and I am just a nobody commentor! They are great trucks, otherwise I wouldn't have bought/kept/killed 2 of the 3 three and driving the 3rd one till it gives up the ghost. I honestly debate putting a 408 stroker and gear vendors in this one if it ever gives up. Probably 15K to put into it, and a cheap paint job, and work it another 15 years...
C - We try to answer every comment, regardless of how big we get! We strive to build a community of others helping each other in the automotive space! And you're doing just that. So thank you!
Well aince i have a 97 ram2500 w.9 mag wit only 73,271 miles on the dash im forsure honna subscribe to your channel!!! I love my truck and want to keep it on the rode for as long as possible!!! Thank you for the info you have and i will be looking forward to more informational content from your channel!!!
For now only upgrades i have on it is brembo brake pads, brand new brake lines, drum shoes and hardware are frlm power stop and also the calipers and rotors. I do want to get a brand new plenum for it. Also i do want to rebuild the transmission with stronger gears as well.b
99 rt Dakota. Still out handles lots of new cars in the mountain roads, taking advantage of that torque monster ……rusted out body panels , and. That’s my only complaint
i own a 2000 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9 magnum motor is a beast everything else around it is trash... glad its not my daily not to mention the junk dashes... are the same in all the models including the diesel... Chrysler products are no good
Hey Jake, sorry for this off topic question. Bud can you please help. About 4 months ago I did some preventative maintenance on my 2003 Toyota Camry XLE 3.0 V6. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body except I never removed it from the car and I never unhooked the battery cables either while cleaning anyways. After I finished cleaning the TB and MAF sensor I cleaned the battery terminals. Anyways after putting everything back together and starting my car it ran sluggish like it's supposed to until a few miles of driving and everything was good or so I thought. The next morning at a cold start my RPM was high. Before cleaning a cold start RPM was around 1250 but ever since it's around 2100 RPM but only at a cold start. No one can figure it out I have no codes and no vacuum leaks. It runs fine all except for the high RPM at a cold start only. Please help?
@@8020Media It was around 4 months ago when I did the cleaning. And I've had that cold start high RPM every sense . I drained the power yesterday by unhooking the battery cables and used a jumper wire thinking it would reset everything but I still have that high RPM at a cold start. Maybe I broke a gear by opening the butterfly by hand. I cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor and battery post and changed the air filter with a supposedly OEM air filter off eBay but I'm starting to think the filter is fake.
@@8020MediaI've taken to one shop but he told me that it didn't do it on him which I know is very untrue because it does it every morning/ cold start. I don't know where you're from but I live in Kentucky and you cannot find anyone that knows shit around here. I had to drive to Tennessee once to see Scotty Kilmer because no one around here could diagnose a bad catalytic converter. That's how brilliant they are around here. Most the time if their actually able to fix anything they end up screwing something else up. And want to charge me for what they broke. I had a window put in my car at a body shop and the very day I picked it up I tried rolling the window up and down but everytime it reached the closed position it would come back down. And they wanted to charge me for that lol
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I had 3 (2000-2001) dodge ram 2500 Magnum with service bodies. Down to the last one now, with 240,XXX on the clock. Some notable conditions I can attest to after putting nearly 700,000 miles on these trucks combined are as follows:
- Plenum gasket (hughes engines makes a great kit with an aluminum plate)
-Cracked heads (current engine has 3 cracks in the head, still runs and drives perfectly fine) They were known for weak casting between the exhaust and intake valves, and are really susceptible to cracking there.
-SUPER MILD stock cams. you can drop in some off the shelf cams and get much better HP and torque curves. I've never done it, but the data, parts, and testimonies are out there
-Timing chain - routine maintenance, upgrade to a double roller and your good for 200k-ish.
-ABS Control module - They no longer manufacturer them, you can still find functioning used ones out there for around $350
-Front end - Constantly rebuild the front ends at 50,000 miles.
-Fuel Pumps and Filters - Had 3 fuel pumps just die while driving, also the fuel filter is not in line, it is in the pump itself, so you can't service fuel filter.
-46/47/48 RE are trash. Known problem. Most times is starts with broken overdrive spring, governor pressure solenoid, governor pressure switch. Also, these have adjustable bands. should properly adjust your bands every 30,000 miles at trans service. Most I got out of a stock trans was 212,000. Upgraded them to stage 2, with Deep Trans pan (holds extra four quarts) and oversized trans cooler, with shift kits. Temps never risen over 190 when towing in Texas heat.
-The dashes crack, plenty of caps or full dash/bezel replacements on aftermarket
-they are SERIOUSLY underbraked. you can put 3rd gen brakes on, but need to run a minimum of a 17" wheel to clear the bigger calipers. (no need to upgrade master cylinder)
-the Voltage regulator is in the CPU, so if you have an alternator fry, it can sometimes blow the Volt Reg in CPU and you need to get a new CPU.
-Exhaust leaks, cracked manifolds, broken exhaust pipes, fact of life
-The power steering boxes leaked on all of mine easy replacement
-Perform regular maintenance (plugs, wires, cap, button,) Service trans every 30K (bands, fluid, filter) run 91 or higher octane to fight ping, I run full Synth Mobil 1, Give them a nice seafoam treatment every 5-10K.
-My Upgrades: Hughes RPM intake manifold, Big Gulp Throttle Body, K&N CAI, Electric fan kit, Deep trans pan, oversized trans cooler, 160A Alternator, Dual batteries, 4.10 gears, stage 2 trans, shift kit, Accel ignition, 180 degree t-stat,
C - We really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience! This will certainly help future viewers.
@@8020Media Cool of you to reach out brother! You have a big channel and I am just a nobody commentor! They are great trucks, otherwise I wouldn't have bought/kept/killed 2 of the 3 three and driving the 3rd one till it gives up the ghost. I honestly debate putting a 408 stroker and gear vendors in this one if it ever gives up. Probably 15K to put into it, and a cheap paint job, and work it another 15 years...
C - We try to answer every comment, regardless of how big we get! We strive to build a community of others helping each other in the automotive space! And you're doing just that. So thank you!
Well aince i have a 97 ram2500 w.9 mag wit only 73,271 miles on the dash im forsure honna subscribe to your channel!!! I love my truck and want to keep it on the rode for as long as possible!!! Thank you for the info you have and i will be looking forward to more informational content from your channel!!!
C - Thanks for the feedback! Glad you found the content helpful.
For now only upgrades i have on it is brembo brake pads, brand new brake lines, drum shoes and hardware are frlm power stop and also the calipers and rotors. I do want to get a brand new plenum for it. Also i do want to rebuild the transmission with stronger gears as well.b
C - Nice! Keep us updated.
Nice Review. I've got one with a valve lifter tick. I wonder if that's also common on these? Thanks.
C - Thanks for the feedback! We haven't heard too much of it.
99 rt Dakota. Still out handles lots of new cars in the mountain roads, taking advantage of that torque monster ……rusted out body panels , and. That’s my only complaint
D - Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
i own a 2000 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9 magnum motor is a beast everything else around it is trash... glad its not my daily not to mention the junk dashes... are the same in all the models including the diesel... Chrysler products are no good
A - Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
I hear it’s common for the cam bearing to wipe out I rebuilt a 5.9 magnum for my 85 dodge that’s all I replaced every thing else was fine
S - Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
Hey Jake, sorry for this off topic question. Bud can you please help. About 4 months ago I did some preventative maintenance on my 2003 Toyota Camry XLE 3.0 V6. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body except I never removed it from the car and I never unhooked the battery cables either while cleaning anyways. After I finished cleaning the TB and MAF sensor I cleaned the battery terminals. Anyways after putting everything back together and starting my car it ran sluggish like it's supposed to until a few miles of driving and everything was good or so I thought. The next morning at a cold start my RPM was high. Before cleaning a cold start RPM was around 1250 but ever since it's around 2100 RPM but only at a cold start. No one can figure it out I have no codes and no vacuum leaks. It runs fine all except for the high RPM at a cold start only. Please help?
D - How many days has it been since you cleaned the parts you mentioned?
@@8020Media It was around 4 months ago when I did the cleaning. And I've had that cold start high RPM every sense . I drained the power yesterday by unhooking the battery cables and used a jumper wire thinking it would reset everything but I still have that high RPM at a cold start. Maybe I broke a gear by opening the butterfly by hand. I cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor and battery post and changed the air filter with a supposedly OEM air filter off eBay but I'm starting to think the filter is fake.
D - Could certainly be possible.. Very odd. Have you taken it to a shop?
@@8020MediaI've taken to one shop but he told me that it didn't do it on him which I know is very untrue because it does it every morning/ cold start. I don't know where you're from but I live in Kentucky and you cannot find anyone that knows shit around here. I had to drive to Tennessee once to see Scotty Kilmer because no one around here could diagnose a bad catalytic converter. That's how brilliant they are around here. Most the time if their actually able to fix anything they end up screwing something else up. And want to charge me for what they broke. I had a window put in my car at a body shop and the very day I picked it up I tried rolling the window up and down but everytime it reached the closed position it would come back down. And they wanted to charge me for that lol
D - Sorry to hear! Keep us update on this. We hope you find the solution.
Damn bro! Do your research before posting. So much wrong in this video data and pics.
T - We would love to hear what we said wrong.