REBUILD FINALLY HAPPENING! Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLOQxGRqn9AUM1Wk6UESPnHbSxVYavUfzQ 2024 edit, yeah this gun sucks, I know the guy though and I've modernized it for him for free already. --------------------------------------------------------- 2023 edit, my pride has to make this disclaimer: This build sounds really bad... Partly due to the battery being crap. My personal SR25 in my battery video (description), is a bit quieter, but I can do better!! Stay tuned! --------------------------------------------------------- Forgot to mention: Teeth engagement technically was perfect out of the factory, just had to grind down that second tooth and it would clear all the way to the pickup correctly. Precock off
unfortunately that "air" you're hearing is the 9T bevel gear going schhhhhhhh moral of the story, don't use zci's 9T bevel unless your sole mission is to increase the gear ratio
Hi, J. A masterful video, sounds great! I am in consideration of which SR25 I should buy for a DMR. Two viable options are: this CYMA e platinum or East crane EC901. FYI: I am aiming at 2,2J with 0,3g according to our limits once build. 1. Would you prefer one over the other as a base? Is one of these better in stock than the other? From technical specification side I can only notice that one of these uses 400mm inner barrel while the CYMA is 500mm. Does that additional 100mm of inner barrel help? 2. IF we do it stages: what is the most important and budget wise most effective updates? precission barrel with bucking? The hop-up unit? Gears? Motor? Mosfet? Cylinder and piston updates? 3. Is there a specific reason why you swap the mosfet? I know that stock cyma ones do not last for very long, but I would wait until it dies. Is it a bad idea? Is there any specific possibility this mosfet has that makes it a no brainer as an update? 4. Is there a reason you did not pick all the three gears from the same manufacturer, just a set? 5. you indicate that the motor is used as 14,8V, can you explain? Does this mean that you use a 14,8V battery? 6. I see you are using 8mm bearings, I've read the article about bearings and bushings on retro arms, and It says that using bearings on AEGs onver 1.6J is a bad idea. You should use just bushings, since they are stronger. What do you think about this? 7. what would you say the most important part is to make an AEG sound this good? A brushless motor or good gears 8. for 2.2J what spring and gears set would you guess should be best to use?
You are a very good planner! It's a good thing you're considering all of these. I will try to answer all of your questions to the best of my ability after I get home from work.
Hey Arena! Great questions, here we go. 1. I would go for the EC. - The Cyma platinum is far from perfect out of the box in my honest opinion, but my standards are ridiculous. It's fine for a $300 replica. - Both use the V2.5 gearbox with the 19T piston and extended cylinder. - The EC comes with a trigger trolley, the CYMA has an ETU. - CYMA's handguard is mounted very poorly, held on by two tiny grub screws, and a small drop will make it come loose permanently. I've replaced the hand guard on mine, so it isn't an issue for me. - EC's handguard looks better, besides the front iron sight being part of the rail, but that's cool in its own way. - The surface finish on CYMA's receiver is too smooth, so regular human oils and dirt/debris will tarnish is very quickly. - The EC's receiver looks pretty good. - If I were to do this again, I would not use the CYMA. The electronics got thrown out and the handguard broke, so hands down I would use a different base replica. The 100mm does not make much of a difference unless you can fully use the volume. (You would need to give the bb an absurdly long dwell time, but AEGs work with spinning gears so you need to slow down the gears to avoid PME) 2. Gears, motor, bucking, cylinder/piston, hopup, barrel, electronics. 3. I replaced the electronics both because the CYMA ETUs tend to die, and the new one has more programmable options. If you go with the CYMA, it's fine to wait until it dies, you'll just be out of a gun for awhile. 4. 19T would have been too much energy for our fields, so I dropped to a 16T sector. The spur was acceptable to keep. The bevel gear was changed to lower the RPS as it's only 9T vs. the normal 10T 5. Correct, this motor accepts 14.8 nominal voltage batteries. 6. With normal cheap bearings yes, they will break very quickly in stronger builds. You can usually get away with leaving the bearings in for the bevel. Bearings on the bevel is good because that gear spins very fast and benefits from the lower friction. 7. Good gears. My personal SR25 is running a premium brushed motor from Paragon Armory. 8. SP130 18:1 19T will get you there without too much stress. Spend extra time on compression, seal, and experiment with cylinder port position. A good port allows the spring to impart energy into the piston before dislodging the bb for higher peak pressure. Check out my personal SR25! ruclips.net/video/egpU4ujvX88/видео.html
@@j-airsoft thank you for your very detailed answer. Very informative, my respect to you for the time wasted on this reply. I must say that I started to consider the third SR25 option - the A&K. The guy in my field switched to HPA and is ready to sell his unit with the following upgrades already installed: Retro Arms CZ CNC 8mm Gearbox Shell For SR25 Series Airsoft AEG Rifles - Black Tornado F1 motor TBB and bucking (forgot the brand) MAXX yellow CNC Hop-up chamber Jefftron mosfet Changed harder cylinder and piston (I forgot the brand, I believe 21 teeth on the piston) Some CNC triggers and so on. The gears sadly have just been changed to some generic ones (I believe 19T), because the aftermarket ones have been destroyed. But I will find out. After some chrono testing, I will have to make a choice on how to get closer to one of two possible limits (either lower 2,25J with 0,3 or higher 2,85J with 0,45g) I know it is chrono'ed with 0,45 at 2,2J so it is possible to go both directions. I will just have to make a decision.
Shoots quite nice so I bought it. Only one problem: even though the mechanical firing switch is locked to semi, when I pull the trigger lightly it shoots full auto. Only a decisive full trigger pull shoots semi. Weird, but I'll sort it out somehow.
I put off AR types 'cuz of the "everyone's already got tons of m4 s" mentality, but they have the most part customization options and I have to say my sr25 is currently my favorite platform. Close second is my dsg vector 😉
@@j-airsoft Partial to my Masada lol that's my favorite platform, have every combo you could think of in parts, but I generally main an animal of an SSR or my freshly build MSR
Does that tape (is it electrical tape?) on the bearing shaft tower really last, it dosen't get ripped into pieces? Also a little confusing to see that you are short stroking a Version 2.5 (elongonged) gearbox🤔. Isn't the extra air volyme the hole point with having a 19 tooth sector gear? Be aware of that Maxx cylinder heads have been known to "snap" off the "guide plugs" in the gearbox for the cylinder head. Otherwise very informative video👍
the tape definitely does not last if you open the gun up a lot, but otherwise it doesn't experience any significant wear. A comment mentioned aluminum tape which is probably a better idea For this build I short stroked it because the port already made the longer cylinder effectively useless so the extra spring compression wasn't entirely necessary (it technically still allows the piston to accelerate up to speed before air compression, but the energy output only turned out to be negligibly lower) On my personal sr25 I have it slinging 2J with an SP150, right on the line for ballahack 😊 if I kept the 19T who knows how much over the limit I'd be! And I can't just nerf the spring cuz then I risk PME with this motor's crazy rpm (spoiler, I shattered a few gears with the stock spring before I realized it was pme) Yep I've been warned a ton about these maxxs, but only after the fact... They're holding up pretty well so far, but for peace of mind I'll be going shs oring cylheads with new builds from here on
Hi there, I'm really struggling to remove the pin at 2:45, used a punch and small mallet to try to hit it out the same as you did in the video and it wont budge. Any tips or advice would be handy, thank you!
one side has teeth to grip the receiver, the other is smooth, smack the smooth side the factory may have installed it backwards so don't just follow my receiver orientation
hey, thx for video really cool! do you think the upgrade can be done in the same way for the A&K version? Im new with upgrades and I'd love to learn following this vid
The A&K's external disassembly seems to be a bit different, removing the buffer tube for starters, but since it is also a regular extended V2 gearbox, everything else should be the same. Also I do a lot of jump cuts so it's really just an overview of the process. Other people have done way better and more indepth guides for tuning specific parts of the gearbox so I recommend checking them out too!
I have the exact same gun and plan on opening mine up to shoot 380 fps with .28-.3s, do you have a linked parts list and a unedited video, I’ve never done upgrades on internals so this is a big help
Shimming isn't a difficult nor magical practice. People for some reason make it look mystical. Just put some shims in and make the gears not touch eachother/touch at good angles. Trigger response is achieved by either fast cyclic rate or precocking. Both have drawbacks, being more difficulty on the motor and a higher starting current, respectively.
Hi, I bought the CM.098a cyma platinum model, I'm using it in assault conf. and now I'm thinking on upgrading it. You know if all standard V2 gearbox parts are compatible with the V2 long gearbox? In first place, my maxx model me pro hop chamber fits and feds nice, so I supose that all other parts will fit, but I'm sure you know 100%. Lot of thanks and keep making videos like this.
@@davidruizgarcia6289 no, it is not the same. Sorry my wording was poor. The tappet, piston, and cylinder are different; they're longer. Everything else is the same
Nice, I just bought a Cyma sr25. Had some upgrades installed by a technician. But I want to learn this too, doesn't look to hard to do. Need to upgrade it with a new cylinder and a nozzle etc. Easy fix I guess.
@@jorgeandrez7591 it'll be good to like your typical aeg. 100-150 ft. Since its energy is so low. It just sounds and feels better to use than most. Although it could be much better, and I've already offered him to redo it if he wants me to
Hey there, working on my SR 25 and have noticed that the bevel is tilting when I put the sector gear in, did you have anything like this? Luke from Neg Airsoft mentioned this is a known issue with the series... Would you recommend anything other than trying different gears?
I didn't experience this, check if the bearing is properly seated or broken. Unlikely a gear issue unless the axle is significantly smaller than the bearing, which would be very weird.
@@j-airsoft 14:01 what's that spray you use? I've been having a lot of issues with this build, thankfully i'm nearly getting there, it's just getting it to sound crisp now - any pointers would be helpful, thanks!
@@yasarhussain1398 it's white lithium greasein a rattle can, I rarely use it unless debris gets in a bushing. Regular silicone grease is my normal lube. I have no special advice for this one, typical V2 just a bit longer...
Used wrong sticker but hey if it works it works your supposed to use the ics sticker with platinum gearboxes. And stop super gluing crap down it makes it bugs the crap out of me when I have to go in and fix a gun that was "upgraded" and everything is super glued down you really don't have to do that.
My personal SR25's build list is in the description over here! (But it sounds like crap in the video 'cuz of the mediocre battery) ruclips.net/video/dHPiye36Ek0/видео.html
my thoughts exactlyyyyyyyyyyyyy why do they ship with what is essentially a regular aeg cylinder?? type 0 cylinders were out of stock everywhere I looked (with the exception of ONE from ehobbyasia that I snagged and dropped into my personal sr25) and RetroArms' type E, the one I really wanted, is STILL out of stock! 😭 this is the main reason why I stuck in a 16T sector, and luckily I managed to get this one to hit the 1.7J goal with 16T
REBUILD FINALLY HAPPENING! Playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLOQxGRqn9AUM1Wk6UESPnHbSxVYavUfzQ
2024 edit, yeah this gun sucks, I know the guy though and I've modernized it for him for free already.
---------------------------------------------------------
2023 edit, my pride has to make this disclaimer:
This build sounds really bad... Partly due to the battery being crap.
My personal SR25 in my battery video (description), is a bit quieter, but I can do better!! Stay tuned!
---------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to mention:
Teeth engagement technically was perfect out of the factory, just had to grind down that second tooth and it would clear all the way to the pickup correctly.
Precock off
Keep making videos i love these full builds
Both this and your own sounds so smooth. I almost can't hear any distinguishable mechanic sound, just the air.
unfortunately that "air" you're hearing is the 9T bevel gear going schhhhhhhh
moral of the story, don't use zci's 9T bevel unless your sole mission is to increase the gear ratio
@@j-airsoft Damn, there goes my uneducated guess out of the window :D
Thanks for the explanation =)
im watching all your build videos and I learnt so much on every one of them!! Congrats on your work!!
Hi, J. A masterful video, sounds great!
I am in consideration of which SR25 I should buy for a DMR. Two viable options are: this CYMA e platinum or East crane EC901.
FYI: I am aiming at 2,2J with 0,3g according to our limits once build.
1. Would you prefer one over the other as a base? Is one of these better in stock than the other? From technical specification side I can only notice that one of these uses 400mm inner barrel while the CYMA is 500mm. Does that additional 100mm of inner barrel help?
2. IF we do it stages: what is the most important and budget wise most effective updates? precission barrel with bucking? The hop-up unit? Gears? Motor? Mosfet? Cylinder and piston updates?
3. Is there a specific reason why you swap the mosfet? I know that stock cyma ones do not last for very long, but I would wait until it dies. Is it a bad idea? Is there any specific possibility this mosfet has that makes it a no brainer as an update?
4. Is there a reason you did not pick all the three gears from the same manufacturer, just a set?
5. you indicate that the motor is used as 14,8V, can you explain? Does this mean that you use a 14,8V battery?
6. I see you are using 8mm bearings, I've read the article about bearings and bushings on retro arms, and It says that using bearings on AEGs onver 1.6J is a bad idea. You should use just bushings, since they are stronger. What do you think about this?
7. what would you say the most important part is to make an AEG sound this good? A brushless motor or good gears
8. for 2.2J what spring and gears set would you guess should be best to use?
You are a very good planner! It's a good thing you're considering all of these. I will try to answer all of your questions to the best of my ability after I get home from work.
Hey Arena! Great questions, here we go.
1. I would go for the EC.
- The Cyma platinum is far from perfect out of the box in my honest opinion, but my standards are ridiculous. It's fine for a $300 replica.
- Both use the V2.5 gearbox with the 19T piston and extended cylinder.
- The EC comes with a trigger trolley, the CYMA has an ETU.
- CYMA's handguard is mounted very poorly, held on by two tiny grub screws, and a small drop will make it come loose permanently. I've replaced the hand guard on mine, so it isn't an issue for me.
- EC's handguard looks better, besides the front iron sight being part of the rail, but that's cool in its own way.
- The surface finish on CYMA's receiver is too smooth, so regular human oils and dirt/debris will tarnish is very quickly.
- The EC's receiver looks pretty good.
- If I were to do this again, I would not use the CYMA. The electronics got thrown out and the handguard broke, so hands down I would use a different base replica. The 100mm does not make much of a difference unless you can fully use the volume. (You would need to give the bb an absurdly long dwell time, but AEGs work with spinning gears so you need to slow down the gears to avoid PME)
2. Gears, motor, bucking, cylinder/piston, hopup, barrel, electronics.
3. I replaced the electronics both because the CYMA ETUs tend to die, and the new one has more programmable options. If you go with the CYMA, it's fine to wait until it dies, you'll just be out of a gun for awhile.
4. 19T would have been too much energy for our fields, so I dropped to a 16T sector. The spur was acceptable to keep. The bevel gear was changed to lower the RPS as it's only 9T vs. the normal 10T
5. Correct, this motor accepts 14.8 nominal voltage batteries.
6. With normal cheap bearings yes, they will break very quickly in stronger builds. You can usually get away with leaving the bearings in for the bevel. Bearings on the bevel is good because that gear spins very fast and benefits from the lower friction.
7. Good gears. My personal SR25 is running a premium brushed motor from Paragon Armory.
8. SP130 18:1 19T will get you there without too much stress. Spend extra time on compression, seal, and experiment with cylinder port position. A good port allows the spring to impart energy into the piston before dislodging the bb for higher peak pressure.
Check out my personal SR25!
ruclips.net/video/egpU4ujvX88/видео.html
@@j-airsoft thank you for your very detailed answer. Very informative, my respect to you for the time wasted on this reply.
I must say that I started to consider the third SR25 option - the A&K. The guy in my field switched to HPA and is ready to sell his unit with the following upgrades already installed:
Retro Arms CZ CNC 8mm Gearbox Shell For SR25 Series Airsoft AEG Rifles - Black
Tornado F1 motor
TBB and bucking (forgot the brand)
MAXX yellow CNC Hop-up chamber
Jefftron mosfet
Changed harder cylinder and piston (I forgot the brand, I believe 21 teeth on the piston)
Some CNC triggers and so on.
The gears sadly have just been changed to some generic ones (I believe 19T), because the aftermarket ones have been destroyed. But I will find out. After some chrono testing, I will have to make a choice on how to get closer to one of two possible limits (either lower 2,25J with 0,3 or higher 2,85J with 0,45g)
I know it is chrono'ed with 0,45 at 2,2J so it is possible to go both directions. I will just have to make a decision.
Shoots quite nice so I bought it.
Only one problem: even though the mechanical firing switch is locked to semi, when I pull the trigger lightly it shoots full auto. Only a decisive full trigger pull shoots semi. Weird, but I'll sort it out somehow.
i have no idea how to do tech work other than barrel bucking hopup but this shit is cool man, keep up the builds
I have almost the same internals in my cyma sr. I just wish perun made their motor wires in a 90° connector instead of straight.
You can very easily bend them, I just installed one yesterday and they bent beautifully
Literally airsoft asmr
Thanks for the vid, working on a buddies currently and TBH I've never worked on an AR platform lol
I put off AR types 'cuz of the "everyone's already got tons of m4 s" mentality, but they have the most part customization options and I have to say my sr25 is currently my favorite platform. Close second is my dsg vector 😉
@@j-airsoft Partial to my Masada lol that's my favorite platform, have every combo you could think of in parts, but I generally main an animal of an SSR or my freshly build MSR
@@hmg9194 😎
So nice
Does that tape (is it electrical tape?) on the bearing shaft tower really last, it dosen't get ripped into pieces?
Also a little confusing to see that you are short stroking a Version 2.5 (elongonged) gearbox🤔. Isn't the extra air volyme the hole point with having a 19 tooth sector gear?
Be aware of that Maxx cylinder heads have been known to "snap" off the "guide plugs" in the gearbox for the cylinder head.
Otherwise very informative video👍
the tape definitely does not last if you open the gun up a lot, but otherwise it doesn't experience any significant wear. A comment mentioned aluminum tape which is probably a better idea
For this build I short stroked it because the port already made the longer cylinder effectively useless so the extra spring compression wasn't entirely necessary (it technically still allows the piston to accelerate up to speed before air compression, but the energy output only turned out to be negligibly lower)
On my personal sr25 I have it slinging 2J with an SP150, right on the line for ballahack 😊 if I kept the 19T who knows how much over the limit I'd be! And I can't just nerf the spring cuz then I risk PME with this motor's crazy rpm
(spoiler, I shattered a few gears with the stock spring before I realized it was pme)
Yep I've been warned a ton about these maxxs, but only after the fact... They're holding up pretty well so far, but for peace of mind I'll be going shs oring cylheads with new builds from here on
@@j-airsoft You got PME with SP150 spring😮 ( and only semi allowed I presume), did you have brushless motor and a heavy piston assembly?
@@KAG2203 oh no I meant with the stock spring, like an m110 or something close
yeah Rocket brushless motor 48k @11.1 / 68k @14.8
piston is 31g
@@j-airsoft Ok, I see
Nice vid dude!
I hace a question... What size of oring did you put on piston head?
Thanks You!
Hi there, I'm really struggling to remove the pin at 2:45, used a punch and small mallet to try to hit it out the same as you did in the video and it wont budge. Any tips or advice would be handy, thank you!
one side has teeth to grip the receiver, the other is smooth, smack the smooth side
the factory may have installed it backwards so don't just follow my receiver orientation
Master craft!
hey, thx for video really cool! do you think the upgrade can be done in the same way for the A&K version? Im new with upgrades and I'd love to learn following this vid
The A&K's external disassembly seems to be a bit different, removing the buffer tube for starters, but since it is also a regular extended V2 gearbox, everything else should be the same. Also I do a lot of jump cuts so it's really just an overview of the process. Other people have done way better and more indepth guides for tuning specific parts of the gearbox so I recommend checking them out too!
I have the exact same gun and plan on opening mine up to shoot 380 fps with .28-.3s, do you have a linked parts list and a unedited video, I’ve never done upgrades on internals so this is a big help
Parts for this one are in this video's description
This was great wow
not as good as my latest rebuild! 😏
@@j-airsoft I’ve been itching to get a similar build on this platform so I’m all ears on what I should do 👌🏼
Did you use a dremel to grind off the oem screw nub to fit the perun mosfet in? Mine is not flush with gearbox
yep, I didn't record that bit
Any tips on shimming?
And gear ratios, as in what is better for trigger response, etc?
Shimming isn't a difficult nor magical practice. People for some reason make it look mystical. Just put some shims in and make the gears not touch eachother/touch at good angles.
Trigger response is achieved by either fast cyclic rate or precocking. Both have drawbacks, being more difficulty on the motor and a higher starting current, respectively.
Thanks for the help, have a good one!
You should sell these cuz I’d 100% buy it, mostly cuz i don’t got the tools to do it myself but still😂
Time and dealing with shipping are my concerns and holding me back from opening up commissions; I may consider on a case by case basis tho!
Hi, I bought the CM.098a cyma platinum model, I'm using it in assault conf. and now I'm thinking on upgrading it. You know if all standard V2 gearbox parts are compatible with the V2 long gearbox? In first place, my maxx model me pro hop chamber fits and feds nice, so I supose that all other parts will fit, but I'm sure you know 100%. Lot of thanks and keep making videos like this.
yeah, everything outside of the tappet, cylinder, and piston body are the same
@@j-airsoft the tappet plate is the same as an V2??
@@davidruizgarcia6289 no, it is not the same. Sorry my wording was poor.
The tappet, piston, and cylinder are different; they're longer. Everything else is the same
Nice, I just bought a Cyma sr25.
Had some upgrades installed by a technician.
But I want to learn this too, doesn't look to hard to do.
Need to upgrade it with a new cylinder and a nozzle etc.
Easy fix I guess.
Why g36 nozzle? Standard m4/gen2 doesen't work?
v2.5 shells' nozzles are ~3mm longer (24mm)
Hey! How much range they have with that upgrades?
@@jorgeandrez7591 it'll be good to like your typical aeg. 100-150 ft. Since its energy is so low. It just sounds and feels better to use than most. Although it could be much better, and I've already offered him to redo it if he wants me to
Why is the J so low? I saw a same build but used 409 mm barrel and m140 spring but it achieved 2.9J
2J is the field limit
@16:28 what kind of glue is that?
just your regular 🦍 glue
If you were to install an hpa engine, what parts from your build would you port over?
Barrel and gearbox, gutted. Need a different hop I believe, but I'm not a fan of HPA so you won't catch me doing that!😉
Hey there, working on my SR 25 and have noticed that the bevel is tilting when I put the sector gear in, did you have anything like this? Luke from Neg Airsoft mentioned this is a known issue with the series... Would you recommend anything other than trying different gears?
I didn't experience this, check if the bearing is properly seated or broken. Unlikely a gear issue unless the axle is significantly smaller than the bearing, which would be very weird.
@@j-airsoft 14:01 what's that spray you use? I've been having a lot of issues with this build, thankfully i'm nearly getting there, it's just getting it to sound crisp now - any pointers would be helpful, thanks!
@@yasarhussain1398 it's white lithium greasein a rattle can, I rarely use it unless debris gets in a bushing. Regular silicone grease is my normal lube. I have no special advice for this one, typical V2 just a bit longer...
Used wrong sticker but hey if it works it works your supposed to use the ics sticker with platinum gearboxes. And stop super gluing crap down it makes it bugs the crap out of me when I have to go in and fix a gun that was "upgraded" and everything is super glued down you really don't have to do that.
Good eye! And yes, I've mended my ways. Jefftron's little wire clips that tension in the channels are definitely the move nowadays!
I admit this is not my best work, might even be my worst, mentioned in another comment.
Do you have a recommended parts list because I'm wanting to build this sr25
My personal SR25's build list is in the description over here! (But it sounds like crap in the video 'cuz of the mediocre battery)
ruclips.net/video/dHPiye36Ek0/видео.html
@@j-airsoft I appreciate it because I want to start upgrading all my guns
@@j-airsoft for some reason I can't seem to find your parts list I think I'm blind
@@codymosier8581 it was in the description of the other video I linked, but I've copied it to this video as well 👍
@@j-airsoft I appreciate it bubba the bucking what size it that?
how did you lock the semi mode?
disabled the auto selector position in the electronics
@@j-airsoft thx mate, you are my sensei
No type 0 cylinder? Waste of a V2.5 at that point lol
my thoughts exactlyyyyyyyyyyyyy why do they ship with what is essentially a regular aeg cylinder??
type 0 cylinders were out of stock everywhere I looked (with the exception of ONE from ehobbyasia that I snagged and dropped into my personal sr25) and RetroArms' type E, the one I really wanted, is STILL out of stock! 😭
this is the main reason why I stuck in a 16T sector, and luckily I managed to get this one to hit the 1.7J goal with 16T
@@j-airsoft Had to order mine from kingdomofairsoft in the UK, owners a good guy helped me get through my PSG-1 build
What did you use for bushings/bearings at 14:05?
This video is out of date, I use and recommend EZO J cage bearings for the bevel and flt bushings on the spur and sector
@@j-airsoft i was meaning about grease or that oil ;) what is this?
@@kajciomajcio3013 oops, it's white lithium grease. I only use it when bushings are making noise due to debris. Ptfe grease is my usual lubricant
wait a sr25 with a ported cylinder. why. you have a 20 in barrel. yo uneed as much volume as you can get that's bad design.
realy realx watch video
♥ 12:30
This is a family friendly channel 😏
bruh.. just like in real ones make sure you clear the chambered BB, you are lucky you didnt shot your eye out...or you expensive camera/tv
When did this happen?