I was always told growing up to use a little thread locker on the cam gear bolts . I really enjoy your videos thank you for sharing and explaining your every step
The story you told about how you managed tight cam bearings back in the day was very interesting. Watching you work, turning the block up on its side to torque the main caps, little things that you have learned over 30+ years of doing this is very entertaining and informative to me. It's OBVIOUS to me that you KNOW what you are doing! Don't pay attention to the keyboard warriors that show up occasionally.
Regardless of if I ever use the knowledge or not , learning new tricks is always good . This videos ' Tip 'O the Day ' ...filing rings is much easier with a fresh hair cut ! Hey ...gotta look good too right ?
I always liked a little bit of sealer, then a semi dull chisel to stake those gallery plugs. I don't like to admit it, but years ago, I've used that old trick with the cam to size the bearing myself a couple of times. And, you are correct about the alignment issue.
It's been quite some time since i was assembling engines in a production shop and back then we actually trusted that parts packaging stated size was indeed actual and surprisingly enough, back then, there were few problems with getting bearings that were mispackaged, rings that needed to be file fit and so on. As of watching these videos, these days i wouldn't trust what any box says for sizes. I don't know what year this crap started happening, but just like you said, if the part is proven to be a good part, reuse it. Back in the day throwing in a new oil pump was a no brainer. Not so much anymore. Brand new parts you would expect to be perfect could very well blow up your motor. This was a wakeup call to me and to anyone, i hope, to check everything because these are not the good old days.
If there is too much oil in a main bolt hole and you run the bolt in with an impact wrench it’s possible to crack the block from hydraulic pressure. Be careful.
I had talked to my local shop when I was having my block machined and he was telling my about the Ls block cam tunnels being all out of back. He was telling me that sometimes they had to do a bunch of machining with the bearings and sometimes the cam ro make sure they had enough clearance for operation and oil clearance. It's crazy what the OE's do to get them out the door lol. They usually last a long time so I can't say it's a bad idea lol.
I wish I would have seen you torque those mains like that before I had done my block lol. I chased my engine stand all over my shed torquing the mains roflmfao!!!! Not quite that bad but close lol.
On those old carbureted 350s, we found that the exhaust heated intake manifold acted like an inefficient distillation sending light ends of the gasoline to the 4 outboard cylinders, and the fuel's heavier ends were a bit concentrated at the 4 central cylinders. So this might play a role for the leaner center cylinders. But today's gasolines are so clean, this distillation effect may be more theoretical than real. However, the large volumes of gasolines produced make these an intentional dumping ground for a variety of off spec hydrocarbons.
I noticed the piles of heads and camshafts behind you. Looks like you’re swamped in work. Do you work by yourself? I noticed another gentleman walking in the background of one of your other videos and was just wondering.
What rod bearings are you running for your Ls builds. N/A street stockish with just a BTR RedHot cam. Don't know if that matters. 221/24X .617/.619 113 Lsa if you need ro know that.
My L83 I’m rebuilding was the same way with the rings. (Hastings) standard plasma Molly. The top ring ranged from .021-.028 finally found a combination that give me .024 on one side and .022 on the other. I gapped the .022 to .024. The 2nd ring was consistent on all….. .018-.019. 🤔 so I gapped all 2nd to .028 do you think that’s ok what I done? No boring either, just deglazed cylinders. Reusing pistons.
Just rebuilt my L83 a couple months ago. Only reused block rods and got new factory pistons. 293000 miles and cylinders looked good. Knocked glaze off and kept same size and everything. It’s never run better than it does right now tripping 300k. Runs super smooth. I used Mahle rings for it and GM gaskets and Delphi lifters. Used CHE trunnions on factory rockers with Manton 3/8 pushrods series 3. Regular factory springs new and L8T cam. Removed AFM. I mean it runs awesome and likes higher RPM and has good power vs with Afm and I’ve had it since 28,000 miles
Used Durabond cam bearings , clevite main bearings I believe H series and clevite rod bearings. ARP studs and new factory con rod bolts. New main bolts factory. Reman the heads no porting. I think that’s it. New oil pump new water pump
@@powellmachineinc one more question….when installing cam bearings can I put 5,4 and 3 in coming from front of block then come from the rear of block to install 1 and 2? Or do they all have to be driven in from the front to rear of bore? Update…nvm. Got em in.
I sorry brother, I've watched every one of your videos since you started. I started making videos for my grandkids. I had a mini stroke last month. So if I ask questions that I've prob already asked or if you said it in a previous I am sorry.
@@powellmachineinc On another video just posted by total seal piston rings, @totalseal said the Rottler machines are 80k, not 180. Might be worth contacting them.
@@mikebougher3731 It’s a cylinder honing machine. There isn’t that much to tool out. The stones of course are consumables. I’d give you 20k, that’s it.
Thanks for the video. Good one.
Glad you liked it!
This channel is addicting ! 🙂
Ty
I was always told growing up to use a little thread locker on the cam gear bolts . I really enjoy your videos thank you for sharing and explaining your every step
Thanks for watching!
I'm with you on how you are rolling the rings onto the pistons. That is how I learned growing up. I'm not a fan of the ring spreaders either.
Definitely
That first spin after you torque the mains is so sweet!
Definitely
The story you told about how you managed tight cam bearings back in the day was very interesting. Watching you work, turning the block up on its side to torque the main caps, little things that you have learned over 30+ years of doing this is very entertaining and informative to me. It's OBVIOUS to me that you KNOW what you are doing! Don't pay attention to the keyboard warriors that show up occasionally.
Glad you enjoyed it, yeah I try to ignore them!!
Regardless of if I ever use the knowledge or not , learning new tricks is always good . This videos ' Tip 'O the Day ' ...filing rings is much easier with a fresh hair cut ! Hey ...gotta look good too right ?
Very true!
I always liked a little bit of sealer, then a semi dull chisel to stake those gallery plugs. I don't like to admit it, but years ago, I've used that old trick with the cam to size the bearing myself a couple of times. And, you are correct about the alignment issue.
Right on
Another cool vid DANIEL and some great tips 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
It's been quite some time since i was assembling engines in a production shop and back then we actually trusted that parts packaging stated size was indeed actual and surprisingly enough, back then, there were few problems with getting bearings that were mispackaged, rings that needed to be file fit and so on. As of watching these videos, these days i wouldn't trust what any box says for sizes. I don't know what year this crap started happening, but just like you said, if the part is proven to be a good part, reuse it. Back in the day throwing in a new oil pump was a no brainer. Not so much anymore. Brand new parts you would expect to be perfect could very well blow up your motor. This was a wakeup call to me and to anyone, i hope, to check everything because these are not the good old days.
IWatch your channel for two reasons1 it's pretty good content and informative, 2 the accent
Happy to hear that!
Awesome video. Wish i didnt live 6000 km away would definitely send some work your way. 👍
Ty!
Lake Speed of Total Seal has some interesting information about cylinder wall finish
@louielouie777 yes, I know Lake, he does a good job
440 Dodge's have been my cam bearing nemesis.
Yep, I have seen a few of those
I was going to say the same thing. Big block mopars alot of the time need some work on the bearing or polish the cam itself.
If there is too much oil in a main bolt hole and you run the bolt in with an impact wrench it’s possible to crack the block from hydraulic pressure. Be careful.
yep, we are very aware of that, thanks
Glad you clarified what a 604 is thanks 😊
You bet!
Congrats on 25K.
Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time and sharing your know how. Regards to Andrew.
Our pleasure!
I had an oil pump pressure relief spring break in a sbc. It was towards the end so it still had pressure, just reduced.
Yep, I've seen the piston stick also
Torquing the crank bolts sideways is genius.
Definitely helps
Congrats on 25k!!
Thank you so much 😀
Absolutely love a CK10 best hone ever made in my opinion! Add a dwell anywhere option and you are golden
Yep, I agree
That is a cool piston installer. Wish you showed that tool a little better. I'm assuming it is a tapered cone
I will do a video on engine building tools
I, had a couple questions, you answered, during the video. Great job, sir! I, dont need to ask now.
Glad I could help!
Round Track Racin.....Thats a new one for me 🤣 Been going left since 2002 , first time ive heard that. 🏁🇨🇦
That's what everyone calls it in the south
@@powellmachineinc We just say Circle Track. But the same thing. Still love watching your channel !
Roundy rounds👍
Ohio here. Dirt track, round track, circle track...
Great video dont worry about the keyboard jockies
Definitely
Thanks for another excellent video!
My pleasure!
Great video as always. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I had talked to my local shop when I was having my block machined and he was telling my about the Ls block cam tunnels being all out of back. He was telling me that sometimes they had to do a bunch of machining with the bearings and sometimes the cam ro make sure they had enough clearance for operation and oil clearance. It's crazy what the OE's do to get them out the door lol. They usually last a long time so I can't say it's a bad idea lol.
The cam in that engine is the same cam used in the ZZ engines. For only having 208@.050 intake duration this engine is rated at 404 HP and 406 torque
Correct
I wish I would have seen you torque those mains like that before I had done my block lol. I chased my engine stand all over my shed torquing the mains roflmfao!!!! Not quite that bad but close lol.
Lol, definitely
On those old carbureted 350s, we found that the exhaust heated intake manifold acted like an inefficient distillation sending light ends of the gasoline to the 4 outboard cylinders, and the fuel's heavier ends were a bit concentrated at the 4 central cylinders.
So this might play a role for the leaner center cylinders. But today's gasolines are so clean, this distillation effect may be more theoretical than real.
However, the large volumes of gasolines produced make these an intentional dumping ground for a variety of off spec hydrocarbons.
great video as always. thanks
Thanks for watching!
I noticed the piles of heads and camshafts behind you. Looks like you’re swamped in work. Do you work by yourself? I noticed another gentleman walking in the background of one of your other videos and was just wondering.
My son helps me he is 18
LMAO😂 I don’t hate Brother. Just hate the game from time to time. Great job!
If the oil pump uses sintered gears you have to replace them for anything other than stock applications
No, I don't, there is no difference in "continuing to use" and "reuse' , and nobody is stopping every year and changing there pump.
Hey Daniel! Thanks for the video ! Do the rules state that you can't sleeve that eng?
No, it's just not cost effective
@@powellmachineinc What is the cost of 1 sleeved cyl. in general for a sbc!
Had a Cat engine we had to bore bearings on 1 time .
can a block be sleeved and still meet the rules?
Yes, it's just not cost effective
How do you clock the oil holes on your cam bearings? How do you clock the #1 cam bearing?
I put them in line with the mains.
Question, was the pic used to make sure the oil hole was lined up right on bearing 5?
Correct, you can't visually see from the main side
@@powellmachineinc Thank you., sir!
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
We appreciate everyone watching and supporting the channel
You have probably gone over this before,but why do the cam bearing shells have different o.d.'s?
Honestly I don't know, I have never got a good answer
Exactly what I have found,big arguments on auto forums,but it's all opinions,no actual facts.
What rod bearings are you running for your Ls builds. N/A street stockish with just a BTR RedHot cam. Don't know if that matters. 221/24X .617/.619 113 Lsa if you need ro know that.
King Si
Cool thank you sir!!!
Hey Daniel, what’s with the 2 creates full of cams & heads?
Incoming work
My L83 I’m rebuilding was the same way with the rings. (Hastings) standard plasma Molly. The top ring ranged from .021-.028 finally found a combination that give me .024 on one side and .022 on the other. I gapped the .022 to .024. The 2nd ring was consistent on all….. .018-.019. 🤔 so I gapped all 2nd to .028 do you think that’s ok what I done? No boring either, just deglazed cylinders. Reusing pistons.
Yep
Just rebuilt my L83 a couple months ago. Only reused block rods and got new factory pistons. 293000 miles and cylinders looked good. Knocked glaze off and kept same size and everything. It’s never run better than it does right now tripping 300k. Runs super smooth. I used Mahle rings for it and GM gaskets and Delphi lifters. Used CHE trunnions on factory rockers with Manton 3/8 pushrods series 3. Regular factory springs new and L8T cam. Removed AFM. I mean it runs awesome and likes higher RPM and has good power vs with Afm and I’ve had it since 28,000 miles
Used Durabond cam bearings , clevite main bearings I believe H series and clevite rod bearings. ARP studs and new factory con rod bolts. New main bolts factory. Reman the heads no porting. I think that’s it. New oil pump new water pump
Replaced timing chain (upgraded) and all timing parts.
@@powellmachineinc one more question….when installing cam bearings can I put 5,4 and 3 in coming from front of block then come from the rear of block to install 1 and 2? Or do they all have to be driven in from the front to rear of bore?
Update…nvm. Got em in.
I sorry brother, I've watched every one of your videos since you started. I started making videos for my grandkids. I had a mini stroke last month. So if I ask questions that I've prob already asked or if you said it in a previous I am sorry.
Absolutely no problem, sorry to hear that!, hopefully you will make a full recovery!
Thank you brother, I appreciate it.
Would you ever consider moving up to a Rottler H85AX or similar honing machine?
Sure, when I have a extra 180k
@@powellmachineinc On another video just posted by total seal piston rings, @totalseal said the Rottler machines are 80k, not 180. Might be worth contacting them.
The machine is 80k then you get it tooled out the way you need takes you to atleast 120k
@@mikebougher3731 It’s a cylinder honing machine. There isn’t that much to tool out. The stones of course are consumables. I’d give you 20k, that’s it.
Did you do a plateau hone?
Yes, just not on camera
That block can't continue to be used at .030" over?
The rules of the class say it can't be bored more than .030. The block can be used somewhere else after that.
Isn't a 604 engine 400 cu in? 602 is 350 cu in.
No, 602,603,604 all same cid, head and cam difference only
Where are you located
Upstate SC
Ive got an odd one, I bought a nice proudly made in america chain and gear set with the top gear stamped one tooth off. Has anyone ran across that
Yep
👍
For some reason i can't find episode 1 to this build
ruclips.net/video/rOmPHbOO59o/видео.htmlsi=AlDK0F9bv3C8mhTh
I read or saw a video a while back where Crate Insider claimed a horsepower increase using Klotz Oil on the 604; anyone have verification on this?
I have some old cams i use as a reamer lol
hi
Sorry the crank was just a stock polished crank