So incredible helpfull.. Started to do this when i was drunk. Forget where evertything go's. Started to think i lost bolts and sjyt🤣😅 realy helpfull thanks
Stressing the absolute importance of retaining hardware. I do the same. A considerable amount of my R&R is organization of parts and hardware. In the end I’m time and money ahead. Great video btw. Thanks for making it.
thanks to this video i was able to complrtly take it apart and get to the 3 diffs and fill them and build it back up all together first time took me 3-5hrs to be honest and ivre hard sticky notes per each part and screw with pictures i took before and after almos each part i took off/on lol...
My front and rear were basically empty. I put 80k front and rear, and silicone earplug in center. Works perfect ! I can pop wheelies on 4S now, and little to no ballooning at all on front wheels now. Only on 8S at high speed to i get balooning.
Great vid! I took mine apart and little fluid in all the diffs. Put 200k in front and rear with 20mil in the center. Want more drift action on the dirt if u know what I mean.
Thanks I appreciate it..Iv got another one coming out soon..gonna be going back in to check them/new fluids. And that sounds like a good setup for oil..I’ll have to try that out sometime!
Ran really well. I figure with the little thicker 200k in the front/rear, will hopefully keep the lifted tire from ballooning as bad and ripping. Also would rather it slide in turns opposed to rolling so I don’t have to walk over and flip it lol. Prob not the best for handling of running on a track or something but for general bashing, works pretty well with the 80k shock fluid too, much less chassis slap on landings
So I've had metal viatvon dif covers on for a while with no issue after hitting a fence tryna backflip and getting stuck I noticed a humming noise took my fromt dif apart today and the inside of the metal has has parts that have been shaved off and the dif fluid was super sparkly the gears still look semi ok tho would my best best be to put a shim in between the gears and the metal block or gp for the vitavon metal gears and hope it sits smoother
Those spider gears can be taken apart and cleaned up if people want to. They are very easy to put back together and because all the gears, shafts and shims are all the exact same the only thing you need to worry about is getting those two groves in the shaft matched up when assembling it. One set of spider gears can go on either shaft and same with the shims. Anyway on a side note when I changed out the fluid in the diffs I did 100k in both front and rear. I prefer more of a locked diff so I can really get the power down, could easily go full locked tbh and it wouldn't be a big deal. If you were going to be sticking mainly to payment than yes you would want a bit more of a open diff but not gravel and dirt etc...
If you finish the video I have those gears off the shafts on the center differential. Thanks for your expert advice on what differential fluid to run. If it was better to run solid gearing there would be no need for differentials, they work in the vehicles favor for the best traction in an out of corners. If everything is locked out the vehicle will not corner as well, causing it to pull out of the corner your trying to make. Mud trucks an off road trucks are when lockers are installed to lock the differentials for traction, not for cornering capabilities. If your drag racing it in a straight line all the time then I’d agree with you. But otherwise I can’t agree.
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 thanks for the sarcastic comment, I could have left one on your vid easily. I left some thoughts on your vid and options that people could take or leave. I never said you must do this or that or your a idiot. If what you did works for you than good job 👏. I do have alot of experience offloading in real Rigs so thought I would share some ideas NOT demands✌
Pretty sure the spur gear should not have grease on it since it can come in contact with dirt. I put silicone ear plugs in my center diff and 100k in both front and rear diff.
@@PeighDayRC I'll give it a shot, replacing the front bulkhead as we speak. As far as the silicone ear plug, you just jam it in there and put it back together?
@@Wuzzzzup87 yeah that’s pretty much it. You want to make sure to pack it down good in there. I use a small screw driver to push it down in the corners. Just make sure all the gears are covered.
That's a lot of grease and diff lube you added. Wonder for the differentials, if that 30/50 will cause friction since now there is not a whole lot of room for expansion inside.
You only added grease to the teeth of the diff… i thought that was supposed to loaded up pretty good and packed in. Not full to capacity but loaded up way more than that. Have i been doing it wrong? Lol. Great video though.
I put my diff back together and it won’t spin in the opposite direction, did i tighten it too much? If I loose the four screws and will spin. I can’t find a video explaining anything about this
Welcome, Glad you like the video. So no real tips or tricks on your fix, but that’s an easy fix for you, you’ll be back in action in no time, as long as you keep the same gear ratios, just take off that black cover in front of the motor an then get the pinion gear off there’s a little Allen screw holding that on. Slip that gear off an then take that gray cover off. An your spur on the shaft will pull out for you to change that. Now if you haven’t got in there yet, you may have just a loose pinion gear, the set screw comes loose an then there’s no power to the truck, the gear just spins on the shaft, I use red lock tight back on the Allen screw an I put the screw back in an snug it up good. But maybe you’ve already seen that your gears are stripped out. Anyway hope this helps.
I feel you’ll be ok for a little while..but should probably be done within a year..they had some in there witch is better then nothing..I’m gonna also be doing a video going back into all those diffs to inspect the amounts I put in..soon hopefully.
Only if it’s damaged in someway, or the truck is older, my truck is only a year or so old an they all looked good in mine to reuse. I’d say if you got leaks now, they are bad. Or if the truck has higher hours on, just replace them also.
From what I've seen, "new to xmaxx" but a slash pro. Looks to me like the diff cover is the same. The 10th scale has different side bearings so they are basically the same but put the ring gear on the proper side. From this video, it looks to me like the front and rear are the same. Bearings look the same. The aluminum HR covers Ive looked up just list as cover not front or rear. Seems like parts are the same in both ends.
Wow we got a modern day genius….it’s incredible how some people are…you just had to comment on this..well I must not know what I’m doing.. an how am I working on things in life not knowing this information you’ve made me discover? I cannot believe Iv been able to restore boats an wheelers an dirtbikes…rebuilding the engines completely an building an balancing the cranks in some of them. I’m just surprised nasa hasn’t contacted you to work for them. Please keep up your brilliance in life for others to enjoy. Also since your getting critical…it’s engines are gas powered…not engines or gas powered. Thanks again Winner 👍🏻
So incredible helpfull..
Started to do this when i was drunk. Forget where evertything go's. Started to think i lost bolts and sjyt🤣😅 realy helpfull thanks
Thank you for showing everything. Best video about the diffs on youtube
Your welcome an thanks I appreciate it
Nice video my friend ! with a lot of detail ! well done ! 💙👍
Stressing the absolute importance of retaining hardware. I do the same. A considerable amount of my R&R is organization of parts and hardware. In the end I’m time and money ahead. Great video btw. Thanks for making it.
thanks to this video i was able to complrtly take it apart and get to the 3 diffs and fill them and build it back up all together first time took me 3-5hrs to be honest and ivre hard sticky notes per each part and screw with pictures i took before and after almos each part i took off/on lol...
That’s awesome! Glad the video helped!
My front and rear were basically empty. I put 80k front and rear, and silicone earplug in center. Works perfect ! I can pop wheelies on 4S now, and little to no ballooning at all on front wheels now. Only on 8S at high speed to i get balooning.
Reenforce tires with duct tape. In a belting fasion. Or you could belt them externally with fishing line or kevlar string.
@@mortonbeard2240 or just come off the power a little. When is this a problem? Thanks
Earplugs in center makes sense. But why tape and string? Seems over kill for driver error
@@coolhawk2003 NEVER! 😆
Great vid! I took mine apart and little fluid in all the diffs. Put 200k in front and rear with 20mil in the center. Want more drift action on the dirt if u know what I mean.
Thanks I appreciate it..Iv got another one coming out soon..gonna be going back in to check them/new fluids. And that sounds like a good setup for oil..I’ll have to try that out sometime!
Ran really well. I figure with the little thicker 200k in the front/rear, will hopefully keep the lifted tire from ballooning as bad and ripping. Also would rather it slide in turns opposed to rolling so I don’t have to walk over and flip it lol. Prob not the best for handling of running on a track or something but for general bashing, works pretty well with the 80k shock fluid too, much less chassis slap on landings
So I've had metal viatvon dif covers on for a while with no issue after hitting a fence tryna backflip and getting stuck I noticed a humming noise took my fromt dif apart today and the inside of the metal has has parts that have been shaved off and the dif fluid was super sparkly the gears still look semi ok tho would my best best be to put a shim in between the gears and the metal block or gp for the vitavon metal gears and hope it sits smoother
Those spider gears can be taken apart and cleaned up if people want to. They are very easy to put back together and because all the gears, shafts and shims are all the exact same the only thing you need to worry about is getting those two groves in the shaft matched up when assembling it. One set of spider gears can go on either shaft and same with the shims. Anyway on a side note when I changed out the fluid in the diffs I did 100k in both front and rear. I prefer more of a locked diff so I can really get the power down, could easily go full locked tbh and it wouldn't be a big deal. If you were going to be sticking mainly to payment than yes you would want a bit more of a open diff but not gravel and dirt etc...
If you finish the video I have those gears off the shafts on the center differential. Thanks for your expert advice on what differential fluid to run. If it was better to run solid gearing there would be no need for differentials, they work in the vehicles favor for the best traction in an out of corners. If everything is locked out the vehicle will not corner as well, causing it to pull out of the corner your trying to make. Mud trucks an off road trucks are when lockers are installed to lock the differentials for traction, not for cornering capabilities. If your drag racing it in a straight line all the time then I’d agree with you. But otherwise I can’t agree.
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 thanks for the sarcastic comment, I could have left one on your vid easily. I left some thoughts on your vid and options that people could take or leave. I never said you must do this or that or your a idiot. If what you did works for you than good job 👏. I do have alot of experience offloading in real Rigs so thought I would share some ideas NOT demands✌
It was not sarcasm, just life facts
very good vid bruh amazing maintenance
Great Video helps me a lot. Do i need secure the screws from the drivecup with locktite? 16:40
Greatings from Germany.
Great detailed video! Thanks a million!
Thank you an Your welcome!
Front and rear were the dry ones in mine.
Great work 👍🏻😊
Thanks I appreciate it
I used the metal center diff cup on all diffs center front rear.plastic cups nah not for me.
Pretty sure the spur gear should not have grease on it since it can come in contact with dirt.
I put silicone ear plugs in my center diff and 100k in both front and rear diff.
How does it run? Is that what you would recommend?
@@Wuzzzzup87 runs great for me. I know a lot of the 8s Arrma rigs like 500k / 20m / 500k.
@@PeighDayRC I'll give it a shot, replacing the front bulkhead as we speak. As far as the silicone ear plug, you just jam it in there and put it back together?
@@Wuzzzzup87 yeah that’s pretty much it. You want to make sure to pack it down good in there. I use a small screw driver to push it down in the corners. Just make sure all the gears are covered.
Why did you forget to put some grease on the pinion shaft splines and the cv joints??? Just wondering?
That's a lot of grease and diff lube you added. Wonder for the differentials, if that 30/50 will cause friction since now there is not a whole lot of room for expansion inside.
The diffs should be nearly full.
Can you make a same video for XRT please?
Same process
dont over fill above the pins, you risk blowing the diff due to no room for exspansion
great video
Thanks!
Did you feel there was any need to pop the seals off the sealed bearings and injecting any extra grease in them?
You only added grease to the teeth of the diff… i thought that was supposed to loaded up pretty good and packed in. Not full to capacity but loaded up way more than that. Have i been doing it wrong? Lol. Great video though.
I put my diff back together and it won’t spin in the opposite direction, did i tighten it too much? If I loose the four screws and will spin. I can’t find a video explaining anything about this
Yes. Keep track of which bolt goes where.
Never! Lol
@@coolhawk2003 😊
I'm not that firm with these oils is 30k thicker as 50? Cause I think you want to lock the rear diff more than the front?
50 is thicker, an the center diff gets basically locked out with the 20 million weight that goes in them.
Handy video thanks. My pinion gear and spur shredded out after hitting a tree. Any tips on replacing those...?
Welcome, Glad you like the video. So no real tips or tricks on your fix, but that’s an easy fix for you, you’ll be back in action in no time, as long as you keep the same gear ratios, just take off that black cover in front of the motor an then get the pinion gear off there’s a little Allen screw holding that on. Slip that gear off an then take that gray cover off. An your spur on the shaft will pull out for you to change that. Now if you haven’t got in there yet, you may have just a loose pinion gear, the set screw comes loose an then there’s no power to the truck, the gear just spins on the shaft, I use red lock tight back on the Allen screw an I put the screw back in an snug it up good. But maybe you’ve already seen that your gears are stripped out. Anyway hope this helps.
Also use the red lock tight at your own risk, this will make it very hard to get that Allen screw out later on. Blue is recommended
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 ok great, thanks for the advice 👌
I don’t think there’s supposed to be anything on the spur or pinion gear of the motor.
That’s called the rear bulkhead
I REALLY LIKE THE LIL GREASE GUN, DID YOU MAKE THAT OR CAN I BUY IT SOMEWHERE?
I put a link in the description, click on that an it will send you there to buy it. Enjoy
Would you recommend checking levels brand new before running?
I feel you’ll be ok for a little while..but should probably be done within a year..they had some in there witch is better then nothing..I’m gonna also be doing a video going back into all those diffs to inspect the amounts I put in..soon hopefully.
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 Excellent. Thanks for the vid and info 👍
Note: X-Maxx uses 20M Diff Fluid
Do you know if it's necessary to replace the blue seals on the differential covers?
Only if it’s damaged in someway, or the truck is older, my truck is only a year or so old an they all looked good in mine to reuse. I’d say if you got leaks now, they are bad. Or if the truck has higher hours on, just replace them also.
Can the center diff housing be used on the front or back diff?
From what I've seen, "new to xmaxx" but a slash pro. Looks to me like the diff cover is the same. The 10th scale has different side bearings so they are basically the same but put the ring gear on the proper side. From this video, it looks to me like the front and rear are the same. Bearings look the same. The aluminum HR covers Ive looked up just list as cover not front or rear. Seems like parts are the same in both ends.
@@shawng7902 I got my answer from another youtuber and yes the metal housing on the center diff works on the front and rear diff too!
Or they are called shock towers
Did this get rid of the clicking?
Yes, goes great now. Not sure what that clicking was, but it’s gone anyway
Don't be a chicken s*** you supposed to drive it till something falls off then check the fluid
Thanks for the advice coolio
It’s a motor not an engine engines or gas powered motors or electric
Wow we got a modern day genius….it’s incredible how some people are…you just had to comment on this..well I must not know what I’m doing.. an how am I working on things in life not knowing this information you’ve made me discover? I cannot believe Iv been able to restore boats an wheelers an dirtbikes…rebuilding the engines completely an building an balancing the cranks in some of them. I’m just surprised nasa hasn’t contacted you to work for them. Please keep up your brilliance in life for others to enjoy. Also since your getting critical…it’s engines are gas powered…not engines or gas powered. Thanks again Winner 👍🏻
Just dirt
buy a drill