Hi from Belgium :) Your videos are amazing! We see that you put a lot of effort in them. They are clear and precise. Good job! Keep doing what you like :) Pretty sure you're the repairing youtuber I watch that has the clearest explanations of his repairs ! You don't have a lot of viewers yet, but I hope your channel will grow quickly, because you deserve more growth!
I returned the first microscope camera I bought from Amazon for exactly the reason you stated. The camera lens is exactly where I want to put the hot air nozzle. So frustrating! I replaced it with a small camera attached to a flexible pole. It's cheaper because it doesn't have a screen display -- I have to plug it into a laptop to see the camera view. And the flexible pole wobbles a lot as I work, so the image is not steady.
The EC chip is the main culprit in such cases. However I would check some other things as well. For example, check the SPI rom (the bios chip) if it has voltage. You can also try to find a bios dump from this laptop and reflash the chip. You can also check the 3.3V around the EC if it is present. Another one thing you can check is the BQ IC especially the REGN pin, check there for 6V. If you don't find 6V there check for input. If there is input but no 6V then most likely you deal with a faulty BQ. And don't forget the PCH, as in the previous video, a shorted LDO is a very bad omen for the PCH. So if nothing of the previous helps a voltage injection on the 3.3 rail is a must. Oh, and one more thing. I saw the WIFI card still on the board. Try to remove it and check again. Expect the unexpected...
Hi Nick, As soon as I solder across the jumper for the the 3.3V rail, the voltage cycles between 1V and 2V, so the 3.3V is not present on power button / BIOS / EC / anything. When I inject 3.3V from my power supply, the current cycles between 0ma and 20ma, so it seems there is some sort of protection mechanism kicking in. I'll keep working on it. thanks.
@@therepairshare673Hi, well I don't have any schematic for this specific board but usually there are more power rails being generated from the 3.3VLDO such as 1.8V, 1.5V and more 3.3V which are not connected directly to the LDO PSU but through load switches (MOSFETs). You can check for these voltages and shorts on the load switches. You may have though to isolate parts of the board in order to be sure what you measure. If you connect the battery do you get a charging current ?
I love the addition of more live video. I know it is a royal pain, but it does add value to the presentation.
Hi from Belgium :)
Your videos are amazing! We see that you put a lot of effort in them. They are clear and precise.
Good job! Keep doing what you like :)
Pretty sure you're the repairing youtuber I watch that has the clearest explanations of his repairs !
You don't have a lot of viewers yet, but I hope your channel will grow quickly, because you deserve more growth!
You're videos are crystal 🎉
I returned the first microscope camera I bought from Amazon for exactly the reason you stated. The camera lens is exactly where I want to put the hot air nozzle. So frustrating!
I replaced it with a small camera attached to a flexible pole. It's cheaper because it doesn't have a screen display -- I have to plug it into a laptop to see the camera view. And the flexible pole wobbles a lot as I work, so the image is not steady.
The EC chip is the main culprit in such cases. However I would check some other things as well. For example, check the SPI rom (the bios chip) if it has voltage. You can also try to find a bios dump from this laptop and reflash the chip. You can also check the 3.3V around the EC if it is present. Another one thing you can check is the BQ IC especially the REGN pin, check there for 6V. If you don't find 6V there check for input. If there is input but no 6V then most likely you deal with a faulty BQ. And don't forget the PCH, as in the previous video, a shorted LDO is a very bad omen for the PCH. So if nothing of the previous helps a voltage injection on the 3.3 rail is a must. Oh, and one more thing. I saw the WIFI card still on the board. Try to remove it and check again. Expect the unexpected...
Hi Nick, As soon as I solder across the jumper for the the 3.3V rail, the voltage cycles between 1V and 2V, so the 3.3V is not present on power button / BIOS / EC / anything. When I inject 3.3V from my power supply, the current cycles between 0ma and 20ma, so it seems there is some sort of protection mechanism kicking in. I'll keep working on it. thanks.
@@therepairshare673Hi, well I don't have any schematic for this specific board but usually there are more power rails being generated from the 3.3VLDO such as 1.8V, 1.5V and more 3.3V which are not connected directly to the LDO PSU but through load switches (MOSFETs). You can check for these voltages and shorts on the load switches. You may have though to isolate parts of the board in order to be sure what you measure. If you connect the battery do you get a charging current ?
My ignorant first guess is that something is wrong with the EC chip, which means, "It's dead, Jim."
90% super IO chip dead.