My 18K worked well the first year (2020) and on silent mode, would keep my studio at 67°F. Last year, they pushed a firmware update to the thing and it seemed not to cool as well. I had to run in normal mode to maintain 68°F. This year, I have to run it in Turbo mode and it barely makes 71°F. I'm about to buy the gauges so I can check. The upper line is cold, but not bitterly cold. Air handler temperature was 38°F in 2020 when I baseline checked. This year it's 54°F. Checked with an IR themometer. The problem is it's hard to get the 410A unless it's from a thief. Most supply houses won't sell to the public. And HVAC techs won't touch Mr Cool stuff. The few that do want $600-1000 to recharge the system. That's 80% the cost of the system!
I have two Access ports on my unit which is confusing me. Top gauge reads 86 psi Bottom is 112 psi What’s the bottom access port? And are those normal readings?
@@SaveGreenHereThanks! Same question 😉. When my unit was off it measured about 27 psi. When I turned it on, it went to negative 10 or something like that.
Can I check the refrigerant level via the pressure when the mini split is in heating mode? Its currently much too cold for the unit to run in AC mode. Obviously with it in heating mode I won't see the copper hoses freezing on the outside since they should be warm/hot. I think my newly installed minisplit is leaking some coolant because I found some oily substance on the insulation around the refrigerant line on the indoor unit. Also, are you going to do a video on how to recharge a minisplit unit? I found your video on purging the vacuum pump lines of oxygen in preparation or filling with refrigerant, but a full video on all the steps to fill the unit properly would be much appreciated. Thanks!
It has to be running. And in COOLING mode. You most likely have a leak, so I would ask, did you use this product?.... amzn.to/3JCJOAs If you are completely out of refrigerant, then use the new 470a refrigerant. I linked it in the video description, and here it is...... ebay.us/tVSqEv
@@SaveGreenHere thank you. Just checked it and it's at 53. Your video saved me a lot of money. Greatly appreciate it. I already watched your other video on how to Refill. Thanks again.
Would the procedure be the same on a hyper heat unit which has access ports on both high and low lines, like the C&H ch-24lcuo? This is the first mini split type unit i see with access port on both lines. Thanks.
Glad to help. A water spray bottle with a tablespoon of dish soap helps as a visual if you spray over the connection, and you see heavy bubbling, there is a leak.
Nice vid, what pressure should read in case of R32 system ? Also I have a question, I want to move my upstairs unit downstairs. Currently is connected with 5m of lines which is good with factory charge of 1KG R32. But downstair I have 12m of lines, it means, the lines downstairs are longer by 7m. According manufacturer I should add 10g of R32 for each meter so in this case I would need to add ~70g R32. Problem is there is no way I can get this refrigerant (only licensed technicians can manipulate with it - what a stupid thing), so my question is, would it work just fine if there is 70g of refrigerant less ? What would happen? Don't care if it will be little bit less efficient but would this still work. I understand if there is 500g R32 instead of 1000g it would not work, but 70g difference because of longer lines, can it make a big difference or will be just fine ? Thx.
Great video! I let the ads play so you could get paid for the content. Dropped some questions in your other videos. Thanks again and good luck to the channel!
Seems like you are a bit confused with the hoses, and the gauges. Thank you for watching. These videos may help out..... ruclips.net/video/RL64RX-LvrI/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/RndlC9g5HzQ/видео.html
I have a small leak, with some refrigerant still in the system....the leak is due to flare joint. Is it imperative to vacuum the entire system to repair that leak, and if so what is the easiest method? Or is there an alternative process? Thanks so much for your multi-topic Videos!
@@SaveGreenHere Thanks for that tip....I understand the step of pumping down the refrigerant into the compressor. Next question - once I re-flare the line, is vacuum pumping the line with a little vacuum pump necessary? Or can I just release the refrigerant back into the system? And, once again, thank you on behalf of all the DIYers.
@@DhruvaMaharaja1952 if there is a leak and you pump the refrigerant back into the compressor you’ll also suck air and moisture back in that will mix with the refrigerant. The best practice is to recover the remaining refrigerant into a recovery cylinder, redo the flare, pressure test with nitrogen, then vacuum down the system to hold below 500 microns. Then regas the system ensuring you purge the lines of any air before letting the gas back into the vaccumed system
Read the book on your mini split the manufacture should always recommend the correct psi. I'm assuming all mini splits because of the way they are designed would run the same psi. Youc an't go wrong by reading the manual something that NOBODY does.
I have a 9000BTU Fujitsu Halcyon system that from day one hasn't cooled as well as an 8000 BTU window unit did - I have it cooling my homelab server room and in order to keep the room around 75, I need to set it to 64, as low as it'll go. Anyway, recently, it's been stopping cooling when the outside temp gets below 65* or so. I found info that says it's supposed to cool down to 14*F, so it shouldn't be shutting down due to outside temp. When it fires up, the pressure drops down to about 100psi, then builds back up a little to a touch over 120psi and pretty much stays there while removing heat from the room. But when I shut it down and let the high and low sides equalize, the low side goes up to about 190psi (this unit, like I'm guessing a lot of units, only has a low side port). The operating pressure appears ok, but based on the temperature and pressure charts I've found, at about 79-80* ambient temp as it was when I checked, it should be around 232-236psi. Or am I missing something?
@@SaveGreenHere No, we didn't. Generally speaking, if the flare is good, you "shouldn't" need such things. My step father, who's been a boiler/HVAC tech for 40 years and is very experienced with flaring tubing did the flares (the flares that came on the lineset were horrible). The problem I was told with such things is it can cause problems down the road if the system ever needed to be taken apart. Supposedly, it's not easy to get fully cleaned off to re-connect the lines. I'd be more inclined to use the FlareSeal product that you linked - what's your experience with them? Amazon reviews appear to be largely very good. And yes, I agree, I suspect there's a leak, as there's a relatively light residue around one or both of the fittings at the outdoor unit that I'd guess is compressor oil. So right now I'm at a crossroads - the unit has a pulldown function where you close the top valve, start it cooling, then when the pressure on the low side reads 0 or near 0, you close the bottom valve and stop the cooling cycle, and the refrigerant will now be almost totally contained in the outdoor unit (I imagine a small amount would be lost). So do I do that, re-do the connections, and then add refrigerant, in which case, how do I get the proper charge without evacuating the system and re-charging by weight, since the low side pressure is in line but the static pressure seems low based on T&P charts? Or do pull it down, seal it up and go some other route since it has never really cooled adequately?
Thanks a bunch for your videos I do have couple questions. First the gauges I have now are for 134A and the low side pressure gauge maxes out at like 250psi. I used my high side gauge to see what the pressures were and not running they are 120psi and running like 10psi. sounds like I need Freon.. Is using the gauges I have this way going to give me a workable reading? Would
You will need a scale (amzn.to/3U5I6gm) to adequately pump in the correct amount of refrigerant AFTER you repair the issue of why it leaked out, as HVAC systems are a closed circulation system and should NEVER leak. Make sure you perform a proper vacuum using a vacuum pump. This kit includes a leak detector..... amzn.to/3QbSzWv
Bonjour! Thanks for the info, Question: Can this test be done in the heating mode.? It s winter here and my mini split seems to not heat as much as when new
When I removed the cap on the service connector, refrigerant started coming out immediately before I could screw on the blue hose connector with adaptor. Did I miss a step?
Great video and I thought I knew what to do, but... When I checked with the AC in cooling it showed 90 not 117 so I ordered a canister and after a few issues, I thought I got it in OK. Quite a bit leaked out with me trying to get the hoses hooked up but I didn't think that much. I had it on cooling and it was running but showed all the way to 350 so I assumed I had mistakenly put too much in turned it off, then turned it back on after a few minutes and now when it is running in cooling it says 15 when I turn it off it jumps way up to 350 again. I did notice one of the connections ( the bottom one) looks frozen. I bubble-checked everything and I don't see any leaks, but I also am not quite sure what to do from here. It's cool here still (50-60) but I set the temp inside as low as it would go. Do I need to wait until it gets warmer and check everything again and order more refrigeratnt? Any words of wisdom? The video seemed super clear so I'm sure I just did something wrong but not quite sure what that is. It worked great for 2 years after I installed it so it doesn't seem like there can be a big leak, unless something happened over the winter but everything looks OK.
When did you see the 350psi? Did you see after the compressor shuts off? With compressor off is totally different than when it's running. When you do put the hose on, you need to purge the air out of the manifold and hoses, so up at the gauges, you loosen the yellow line where it's stored on the gauge fitting for that purpose, crack open the low side valve, and let the air release to the atmosphere, as well the high side hose should be purged, you really do not want any air accidentally put in the system. You want to do this at the same time your connecting the blue hose to the low pressure adapter flare fitting. Connect a tank of 410a refrigerant to yellow hose and purge the air out before screwing on any of the fittings. If you just crack the gauge manifold valves a bit, this will ensure the line is free of air while your connecting it. It's in the vapor state, if the tank is upright.
Mine froze in the top part and the coolant lines heading into the compressor. Found leak at the high pressure connection. Sealed the leak, but unit now doesn't cool well, compressor not putting out much heat. Question is how much coolant to add and how to gauge that?
Look at the side of the indoor or outdoor unit. It will tell you how many pounds of refrigerant needed. Example, 2 pounds. Buy your refrgerant. Make sure you have a scale like this one, (amzn.to/4dX6c5s) and weigh your tank. Example, the tank weighs 25 pounds. BEFORE you add refrigerant, make sure you run a vacuum and make sure there is a tight seal, and ENSURE the leak is indeed no longer there. Use a vacuum pump---> amzn.to/46X6x5w Use this micron gauge, amzn.to/4dVpg40 and check back about 45 minutes to an hour and make sure the gauge on your hose did not move, so the vacuum is indeed showing your lines show no leak. Assuming you have no refrigerant in your system, place, the refrigerant tank on the scale. Start pumping refrigerant slowly, and little by little, until the weight of the scale drops from 25 pounds to 23 pounds. This will show 2 pounds was put into the system, (according to this example showing 2 pounds on the HVAC equipment label) This must be done with the system running, and in cooling mode.
We’ll, the fact that the leak detector stuff was bubbling should tell me that nothing entered the system? Frustrating because I tested it by sucking it with negative and then loading positive pressure on the lines. No leak at all. Then I use the leak detector spray and no bubbling at all. I used the gaskets that they sell to seal the unit. I come back now and there’s a leak at the high-pressure connection and it was reasonably easy to turn and tighten. Bubbling stopped, but clearly I’ve lost refrigerant. Checked the side of the outdoor unit. R410A, 26.46 OZ (750 grams).
Thank you for your very informative videos. Should all mini split units have 117-120 range of pressure? I am installing a Fujitsu mini split, and the manual says that I should have a minimum length of 49 ft of line set. With my set up(1 25ft line set, and 1 16ft line set) I will have 41ft of line set. I am thinking that I may have to remove some refrigerant because of the shorter line set. Not sure how to handle this. I would really appreciate some help.
Are you sure it says MINIMUM, and not MAXIMUM. What size is it? If you need to cut lineset, and do not have the tools, it may be best to get a professional.
I have 2 mini splits. one read low, as expected and was fine after adding coolant. the other reads max pressure the moment I hook up the gauge. what could be going on with that? thanks!
You probably fixed this already, but I’m guessing you were checking the High pressure side. That would likely max out your low pressure gauge if checking pressure while running in cooling mode.
On my Pioneer 5/16 connection the schrader pin is flush with the end of the flare. The pin depresser on the adapter is flush also. So the pin doesn't get pushed in. Is the schrader screwed in too far?
I install my pioneer mini splitter then vacuum air out then release the refrigerant in to the system inside and there was a Leak at least for three minutes.I stop the leak. I got the remote try to turn it on it for the first time won’t come on..!
If it leaked for 3 minutes, you MOST LIKELY have no refrigerant on the system. Add refrigerant, and re-test...... Link to Extra refrigerant........... ebay.us/YKjza2 Follow the steps on the video carefully, and you should be fine. The side of the mini split outside will tell you how many pounds of refrigerant needed. Assuming you lost it all, you need to put that much in. You will need this refrigerant scale..... amzn.to/38BkhWz For example, let's say your label shows your unit needs 2 pounds of refrigerant. Place the newly purchased refrigerant on the scale. Scale must be reading zero, and on a flat, even surface. Place new refrigerant tank on top of scale. Let's say it measures 15 pounds. SLOWLY add refrigerant until the tank weight on the scale is 2 pounds less. I did a video on a mini split needing refrigerant. I did not use a scale, because the label said it needed 2 pounds, and the container I got was exactly two pounds. Here is that video...... ruclips.net/video/-a7o27_KoUc/видео.html The 2 pound container costs less, and ONLY if you need 2 pounds, would it be the better choice, because you do not need a scale, assuming, A) You lost all refrigerant, and B) You do not need more than 2 pounds. Here is the link to the 2 pound container..... ebay.us/R9aXki You want to make sure you perform a proper vacuum first. Again, watch the video, and ensure there are no leaks. Secure all connections, and use Nylog, or rubber seal.
do you have a video on how to pull the refrigerant back into the compressor. the adaptor I bought didn't push in the valve so I wasn't actually vacuuming the lineset just the manifold hose. I didn't realize until after I released the 410 and none of it came out. I need to pull the refrigerant back into the compressor so I can vacuum out the lines or is it too late and I need to buy new refrigerant and start over. I haven't started the unit.
That would be too late; the refrigerant is now mixed with air and moisture. I don't know what would be the correct fix. Ofcourse sucking everything out, vacuuming and refillig with new refrigerant would work
I have a Senville unit and the outdoor unit is freezing up. It threw an error code OC EL. Talked to Senville through warranty and they want me to pressure test with indoor unit on heating at 86F and are saying I should get a PSI of 390-410. If I follow video directions can I do this test in heating mode like they've requested or will process be different?
Installing a new Senneville 9000 BTU at the cottage. Having difficulty finding a tech to install come. I have 32 ft of line and the unit is pre-charged with 30 oz of 410a, enough for 25 ft.Spec says 1.127 oz of 410a is required for the extra 7 ft.. Will the system run without harm without the extra 1.127 oz ( about 3% less) ? How much less efficient? Thanks for any assistance.
Just buy the 2 pound jug. Weigh it on an HVAC scale..... amzn.to/3O3WNw8 and weigh the EXACT weight of the jug with refrigerant. Add to your system, until you are minus (-) 1.27 oz on the scale. You should see the scale indicate the weight of the jug dropping (losing weight, lol) until you are about 1.2 oz. Here's the 2 pound jug..... ebay.us/E2BJn1
It's in the video description, but here is a copy/paste of the video description links...... Link to Extra refrigerant........... ebay.us/YKjza2 The affordable HVAC gauges..... amzn.to/31nTA1Y Senville Mini Split 3/4 ton... amzn.to/2UiJhc5 Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN 2 stage vacuum pump..... amzn.to/2JWdeM4 Mini split Air cond, 220v under $390…. ebay.us/IXgoHW Mini split Heat pump, 220v under $480… ebay.us/MY2vY7 Mini split Air cond, 110v under $400….. ebay.us/jyUE9P Mini split Heat pump, 110v under 385.... ebay.us/ez2AWh Pad for outdoor... amzn.to/2EMd9Iy Refrigerant line protector kit... amzn.to/2Um1DZI Power cord.............. amzn.to/2XrPgQI Discount one year of Amazon Prime... amzn.to/2qz0RPa Kit to add outside plug..... amzn.to/2Y73aVE Nylog blue sealer on flare ends.... amzn.to/33iYLkS Or, use this gasket kit for flare connection... amzn.to/36LzxPa Alternate tankless water heater models CHEAP!... ebay.us/B1ssST
So I had a terrible AC service guy come out. Broke the fan on the inside unit but told me he charged the pound I lost and tightened one fitting that was leaking and said after I fix the inside fan I should be good. Fixed the fan and no cold air. Followed your video and I have 0 pressure when running however when it’s off it holds at 50psi. I know I need refrigerant but if it’s holding at 50 do you think I still have a leak?
You most likely do. Most likely the leak is at the flare connection. See any one of these two videos, and use a method to eliminate the possibility of future leaks, otherwise you will always end up adding refrigerant every Summer. ruclips.net/video/gND6-4gjs-4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/hQjOhWkGmM4/видео.html
Technically, yes. He could have purged it by letting just a touch of refrigerant out, OR the line could still have refrigerant in it depending on what type of hose he's using. Good question though.
Thanks for the responses. So if I were to have my hose slightly loose at the manifold set attachment point, then connect to the mini split connection point. It would bleed a bit of refrigerant out the hose at the gage connection,this clearing the line and not pulling any contaminants into the system?
My suction temperature is 48F. Suction pressure is 94PSI. 70 outside. Supply 46.6F. Return 67.6F. Delta T 21F. Unit was low. I added 2.65 lb of 410. But low side would not go to 120psi. Mini split in a full blast. Any ideas? Thank you!
You have to continuously open and close the blue know to keep slowly releasing freon into the system that which your refrigerant bottle will be upside down connected to the yellow line
The access point is a manifold and goes to all zones, it's just on the inner part of the housing. So... The answer to your question is: You don't do it to all lines. It would also not be possible LOL
I do have the newer links. The very first one on the video description reads: New 470a refrigerant that replaces 410a refrigerant, with Do-It-Yourself kit included..... ebay.us/tVSqEv This is because the 410a is being phased out and the 470a can be used no problem!
You need to provide more info so folks on here can help. For example, is the line frozen AND you have no cool air coming out inside? Then you may have a leak. So the first order is to find, and seal the leak, then add refrigerant. If you have a leak on the connections, one of these two methods will help..... ruclips.net/video/hQjOhWkGmM4/видео.html Nylog blue sealer on flare ends.... amzn.to/33iYLkS Or, use this gasket kit for flare connection... amzn.to/36LzxPa
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Thats cuz ur yellow hose is open. YOU DO NOT NEED TO OPEN YOUR LOW SIDE VALVE ON YOUR GAUGES TO MEASURE PRESSURE. What you're doing is allowing refrigerant into the manifold and you probably dont have a valve on the yellow hose so your essentially just taking refrigerant out of your system and pissing it away. Keep all valves on your gauges CLOSED, hook up your gauges, purge a little air out of the hose by cracking the hose fitting at ur gauge til u see refrigerant come out( just a little pssssst is all u need) tighten back up and u can read pressures. You do not need to let refrigerant into your manifold to read pressures. Unless its some cheap manifold that operates that way but normal manifolds measure pressure at the valve. I am a certified tech.
SaveGreenHere When one checks the refrigerant in a mini split when its running, is there a way to add back the refrigerant that is left in the low side line?
These valves keep the refrigerant from going into the atmosphere, ready for next time. You can also shut it at the point of entry to the unit, so if there is some refrigerant left, it stays in the line, and able to be used next time..... amzn.to/36pcIS3
@@SaveGreenHere can these type of adapter be hooked up on the AC for long term? u know acting as a extra safety/shutoff quick connector (so we can check pressure from time to time). this may be a longer term solution without much risk of losing alittle freon everytime hooking it up to the gauge?
@@SaveGreenHere I had a leak. Closed liquid line screw and put pressure to -30..then other screw.. Did a new flare on copper line. Hooked it back up..and vacuumed for 2 hours -30. No leaks! opened up both screws and pressure said 90. Added to 115 psi like you said with it on. After I shut it off it went to 200. Put it back on and it and started climbing to 300! The fan went really fast too. I shut it down. Think I did it right?
@@eddwinnas when charging a mini-split, especially after pulling a vacuum, you need to put in the refrigerant by weight. It goes in liquid (tank upside down) and should go in slowly.. little bit.. let the unit run.. then more.. etc., to avoid overcharging.
@@SaveGreenHere I work on car ac systems sometimes. On the these systems when you initally hookup the low side, the pressure would read high. When the compressor is turned on the psi would drop down to normal operating pressure. My question : Does a ductless operate the same?
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Do you leave the pump and the mini split off? I can hear a buzz. Do you have a step by step?
Can I check the refrigerant levels on a Mr cool Zone 4 using this same method and checking the zones 1 by one with the unit on?
My 18K worked well the first year (2020) and on silent mode, would keep my studio at 67°F. Last year, they pushed a firmware update to the thing and it seemed not to cool as well. I had to run in normal mode to maintain 68°F. This year, I have to run it in Turbo mode and it barely makes 71°F. I'm about to buy the gauges so I can check. The upper line is cold, but not bitterly cold.
Air handler temperature was 38°F in 2020 when I baseline checked. This year it's 54°F. Checked with an IR themometer.
The problem is it's hard to get the 410A unless it's from a thief. Most supply houses won't sell to the public. And HVAC techs won't touch Mr Cool stuff. The few that do want $600-1000 to recharge the system. That's 80% the cost of the system!
That's been the case lately.
sounds like you got a leak. R410A is EASY to get. 100's of places ship it online, no questions asked.
I have two
Access ports on my unit which is confusing me.
Top gauge reads 86 psi
Bottom is 112 psi
What’s the bottom access port?
And are those normal readings?
Thanks for your video I was able to test my mini split system and find out that is low on Freon …
Glad it helped
Thank you again! Do you check the refrigerant while the unit is running or off?
Running and in cooling mode!
@@SaveGreenHereThanks! Same question 😉. When my unit was off it measured about 27 psi. When I turned it on, it went to negative 10 or something like that.
Can I check the refrigerant level via the pressure when the mini split is in heating mode? Its currently much too cold for the unit to run in AC mode. Obviously with it in heating mode I won't see the copper hoses freezing on the outside since they should be warm/hot. I think my newly installed minisplit is leaking some coolant because I found some oily substance on the insulation around the refrigerant line on the indoor unit.
Also, are you going to do a video on how to recharge a minisplit unit? I found your video on purging the vacuum pump lines of oxygen in preparation or filling with refrigerant, but a full video on all the steps to fill the unit properly would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
It has to be running. And in COOLING mode. You most likely have a leak, so I would ask, did you use this product?.... amzn.to/3JCJOAs If you are completely out of refrigerant, then use the new 470a refrigerant. I linked it in the video description, and here it is...... ebay.us/tVSqEv
I could not find the link to buy the adapter for my auto gauges. Please tell me where?
amzn.to/3YiyHnX
Question...when checking should the unit on or off?
On. And in cooling mode.
@@SaveGreenHere thank you. Just checked it and it's at 53. Your video saved me a lot of money. Greatly appreciate it. I already watched your other video on how to Refill. Thanks again.
Would the procedure be the same on a hyper heat unit which has access ports on both high and low lines, like the C&H ch-24lcuo? This is the first mini split type unit i see with access port on both lines. Thanks.
Nice job, really helped me...also what do I use to check for visual leaks.....thanks Rick
Glad to help. A water spray bottle with a tablespoon of dish soap helps as a visual if you spray over the connection, and you see heavy bubbling, there is a leak.
Nice vid, what pressure should read in case of R32 system ? Also I have a question, I want to move my upstairs unit downstairs. Currently is connected with 5m of lines which is good with factory charge of 1KG R32. But downstair I have 12m of lines, it means, the lines downstairs are longer by 7m. According manufacturer I should add 10g of R32 for each meter so in this case I would need to add ~70g R32. Problem is there is no way I can get this refrigerant (only licensed technicians can manipulate with it - what a stupid thing), so my question is, would it work just fine if there is 70g of refrigerant less ? What would happen? Don't care if it will be little bit less efficient but would this still work. I understand if there is 500g R32 instead of 1000g it would not work, but 70g difference because of longer lines, can it make a big difference or will be just fine ? Thx.
Does a low charge or low refrigerant keep the compressor from running at its full max speed not getting hot at all or very cold ?
Correct. Low or no charge = compressor will not run.
@@SaveGreenHere thank you for helping me understand this I think I messed up when I relocated mines
If I’m not betting a reading could my adapters not be tight enough ?
Great video! I let the ads play so you could get paid for the content. Dropped some questions in your other videos. Thanks again and good luck to the channel!
Seems like you are a bit confused with the hoses, and the gauges. Thank you for watching. These videos may help out..... ruclips.net/video/RL64RX-LvrI/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/RndlC9g5HzQ/видео.html
I have a small leak, with some refrigerant still in the system....the leak is due to flare joint. Is it imperative to vacuum the entire system to repair that leak, and if so what is the easiest method? Or is there an alternative process? Thanks so much for your multi-topic Videos!
@@SaveGreenHere Thanks for that tip....I understand the step of pumping down the refrigerant into the compressor. Next question - once I re-flare the line, is vacuum pumping the line with a little vacuum pump necessary? Or can I just release the refrigerant back into the system? And, once again, thank you on behalf of all the DIYers.
Always vacuum to ensure 100% that there are zero leaks. Us a meter like this one.... amzn.to/3MnnPOw
@@DhruvaMaharaja1952 if there is a leak and you pump the refrigerant back into the compressor you’ll also suck air and moisture back in that will mix with the refrigerant. The best practice is to recover the remaining refrigerant into a recovery cylinder, redo the flare, pressure test with nitrogen, then vacuum down the system to hold below 500 microns. Then regas the system ensuring you purge the lines of any air before letting the gas back into the vaccumed system
Amazing videos. My question is after pump down all the air could i remove the liquid line? Please respond me. Really appreciate.
Not only no hell no.
No definitely no it circulates or it doesn't work
How do you know it should be at 115 - 120 mark?
Look at the dial on the gauge.
Read the book on your mini split the manufacture should always recommend the correct psi. I'm assuming all mini splits because of the way they are designed would run the same psi. Youc an't go wrong by reading the manual something that NOBODY does.
I have a 9000BTU Fujitsu Halcyon system that from day one hasn't cooled as well as an 8000 BTU window unit did - I have it cooling my homelab server room and in order to keep the room around 75, I need to set it to 64, as low as it'll go. Anyway, recently, it's been stopping cooling when the outside temp gets below 65* or so. I found info that says it's supposed to cool down to 14*F, so it shouldn't be shutting down due to outside temp. When it fires up, the pressure drops down to about 100psi, then builds back up a little to a touch over 120psi and pretty much stays there while removing heat from the room. But when I shut it down and let the high and low sides equalize, the low side goes up to about 190psi (this unit, like I'm guessing a lot of units, only has a low side port). The operating pressure appears ok, but based on the temperature and pressure charts I've found, at about 79-80* ambient temp as it was when I checked, it should be around 232-236psi. Or am I missing something?
Did you put this on the thread connections during install?..... amzn.to/3UqsZyr If not, you may have a refrigerant leak.
@@SaveGreenHere No, we didn't. Generally speaking, if the flare is good, you "shouldn't" need such things. My step father, who's been a boiler/HVAC tech for 40 years and is very experienced with flaring tubing did the flares (the flares that came on the lineset were horrible). The problem I was told with such things is it can cause problems down the road if the system ever needed to be taken apart. Supposedly, it's not easy to get fully cleaned off to re-connect the lines. I'd be more inclined to use the FlareSeal product that you linked - what's your experience with them? Amazon reviews appear to be largely very good.
And yes, I agree, I suspect there's a leak, as there's a relatively light residue around one or both of the fittings at the outdoor unit that I'd guess is compressor oil. So right now I'm at a crossroads - the unit has a pulldown function where you close the top valve, start it cooling, then when the pressure on the low side reads 0 or near 0, you close the bottom valve and stop the cooling cycle, and the refrigerant will now be almost totally contained in the outdoor unit (I imagine a small amount would be lost). So do I do that, re-do the connections, and then add refrigerant, in which case, how do I get the proper charge without evacuating the system and re-charging by weight, since the low side pressure is in line but the static pressure seems low based on T&P charts? Or do pull it down, seal it up and go some other route since it has never really cooled adequately?
Thanks a bunch for your videos I do have couple questions. First the gauges I have now are for 134A and the low side pressure gauge maxes out at like 250psi. I used my high side gauge to see what the pressures were and not running they are 120psi and running like 10psi. sounds like I need Freon.. Is using the gauges I have this way going to give me a workable reading? Would
You will need a scale (amzn.to/3U5I6gm) to adequately pump in the correct amount of refrigerant AFTER you repair the issue of why it leaked out, as HVAC systems are a closed circulation system and should NEVER leak. Make sure you perform a proper vacuum using a vacuum pump. This kit includes a leak detector..... amzn.to/3QbSzWv
Bonjour! Thanks for the info, Question: Can this test be done in the heating mode.? It s winter here and my mini split seems to not heat as much as when new
Needs to be on, and in cooling mode
Do u need to turn the unit on when testing?
On. And in cool mode.
When I removed the cap on the service connector, refrigerant started coming out immediately before I could screw on the blue hose connector with adaptor. Did I miss a step?
Either your cores is loose or needs to be changed out maybe the rubber seals worn out
Is this info correct for inverter mini splits as well?
Great video and I thought I knew what to do, but...
When I checked with the AC in cooling it showed 90 not 117 so I ordered a canister and after a few issues, I thought I got it in OK. Quite a bit leaked out with me trying to get the hoses hooked up but I didn't think that much. I had it on cooling and it was running but showed all the way to 350 so I assumed I had mistakenly put too much in turned it off, then turned it back on after a few minutes and now when it is running in cooling it says 15 when I turn it off it jumps way up to 350 again.
I did notice one of the connections ( the bottom one) looks frozen. I bubble-checked everything and I don't see any leaks, but I also am not quite sure what to do from here. It's cool here still (50-60) but I set the temp inside as low as it would go. Do I need to wait until it gets warmer and check everything again and order more refrigeratnt? Any words of wisdom?
The video seemed super clear so I'm sure I just did something wrong but not quite sure what that is. It worked great for 2 years after I installed it so it doesn't seem like there can be a big leak, unless something happened over the winter but everything looks OK.
When did you see the 350psi? Did you see after the compressor shuts off? With compressor off is totally different than when it's running. When you do put the hose on, you need to purge the air out of the manifold and hoses, so up at the gauges, you loosen the yellow line where it's stored on the gauge fitting for that purpose, crack open the low side valve, and let the air release to the atmosphere, as well the high side hose should be purged, you really do not want any air accidentally put in the system. You want to do this at the same time your connecting the blue hose to the low pressure adapter flare fitting. Connect a tank of 410a refrigerant to yellow hose and purge the air out before screwing on any of the fittings. If you just crack the gauge manifold valves a bit, this will ensure the line is free of air while your connecting it. It's in the vapor state, if the tank is upright.
I'm betting you introduced air into the system
You won't get a good indication of the proper pressures until the temp is in the 60's. If it's cooler than 60 then you have to wait till it warms up.
my 12 k does not blow cold but the pressure is 155lbs.
Mine froze in the top part and the coolant lines heading into the compressor. Found leak at the high pressure connection. Sealed the leak, but unit now doesn't cool well, compressor not putting out much heat. Question is how much coolant to add and how to gauge that?
Look at the side of the indoor or outdoor unit. It will tell you how many pounds of refrigerant needed. Example, 2 pounds. Buy your refrgerant. Make sure you have a scale like this one, (amzn.to/4dX6c5s) and weigh your tank. Example, the tank weighs 25 pounds. BEFORE you add refrigerant, make sure you run a vacuum and make sure there is a tight seal, and ENSURE the leak is indeed no longer there. Use a vacuum pump---> amzn.to/46X6x5w Use this micron gauge, amzn.to/4dVpg40 and check back about 45 minutes to an hour and make sure the gauge on your hose did not move, so the vacuum is indeed showing your lines show no leak. Assuming you have no refrigerant in your system, place, the refrigerant tank on the scale. Start pumping refrigerant slowly, and little by little, until the weight of the scale drops from 25 pounds to 23 pounds. This will show 2 pounds was put into the system, (according to this example showing 2 pounds on the HVAC equipment label) This must be done with the system running, and in cooling mode.
We’ll, the fact that the leak detector stuff was bubbling should tell me that nothing entered the system? Frustrating because I tested it by sucking it with negative and then loading positive pressure on the lines. No leak at all. Then I use the leak detector spray and no bubbling at all. I used the gaskets that they sell to seal the unit. I come back now and there’s a leak at the high-pressure connection and it was reasonably easy to turn and tighten. Bubbling stopped, but clearly I’ve lost refrigerant. Checked the side of the outdoor unit. R410A, 26.46 OZ (750 grams).
Thank you for your very informative videos. Should all mini split units have 117-120 range of pressure? I am installing a Fujitsu mini split, and the manual says that I should have a minimum length of 49 ft of line set. With my set up(1 25ft line set, and 1 16ft line set) I will have 41ft of line set. I am thinking that I may have to remove some refrigerant because of the shorter line set. Not sure how to handle this. I would really appreciate some help.
Are you sure it says MINIMUM, and not MAXIMUM. What size is it? If you need to cut lineset, and do not have the tools, it may be best to get a professional.
My mini split show's pc03 & won't turn on help
I have 2 mini splits. one read low, as expected and was fine after adding coolant.
the other reads max pressure the moment I hook up the gauge. what could be going on with that? thanks!
You probably fixed this already, but I’m guessing you were checking the High pressure side. That would likely max out your low pressure gauge if checking pressure while running in cooling mode.
Do you test it with the unit running?
Yes, and in COOLING mode.
On my Pioneer 5/16 connection the schrader pin is flush with the end of the flare. The pin depresser on the adapter is flush also. So the pin doesn't get pushed in. Is the schrader screwed in too far?
When vacuum and charging, did you remove the core of the schrader valve on the mini unit? Thanks
No. No need to on mini splits.
what are the pressures on the low side in full cool mode
Put the adapter on the hose 1st or refrigerant will shoot out of it if you connect it to the unit 1st
Another great tip. Thanks
He said that.
Refrigerant would shoot out from where?
I install my pioneer mini splitter then vacuum air out then release the refrigerant in to the system inside and there was a Leak at least for three minutes.I stop the leak.
I got the remote try to turn it on it for the first time won’t come on..!
If it leaked for 3 minutes, you MOST LIKELY have no refrigerant on the system. Add refrigerant, and re-test...... Link to Extra refrigerant........... ebay.us/YKjza2
Follow the steps on the video carefully, and you should be fine. The side of the mini split outside will tell you how many pounds of refrigerant needed. Assuming you lost it all, you need to put that much in. You will need this refrigerant scale..... amzn.to/38BkhWz For example, let's say your label shows your unit needs 2 pounds of refrigerant. Place the newly purchased refrigerant on the scale. Scale must be reading zero, and on a flat, even surface. Place new refrigerant tank on top of scale. Let's say it measures 15 pounds. SLOWLY add refrigerant until the tank weight on the scale is 2 pounds less. I did a video on a mini split needing refrigerant. I did not use a scale, because the label said it needed 2 pounds, and the container I got was exactly two pounds. Here is that video...... ruclips.net/video/-a7o27_KoUc/видео.html The 2 pound container costs less, and ONLY if you need 2 pounds, would it be the better choice, because you do not need a scale, assuming, A) You lost all refrigerant, and B) You do not need more than 2 pounds. Here is the link to the 2 pound container..... ebay.us/R9aXki You want to make sure you perform a proper vacuum first. Again, watch the video, and ensure there are no leaks. Secure all connections, and use Nylog, or rubber seal.
do you have a video on how to pull the refrigerant back into the compressor. the adaptor I bought didn't push in the valve so I wasn't actually vacuuming the lineset just the manifold hose. I didn't realize until after I released the 410 and none of it came out. I need to pull the refrigerant back into the compressor so I can vacuum out the lines or is it too late and I need to buy new refrigerant and start over. I haven't started the unit.
That would be too late; the refrigerant is now mixed with air and moisture. I don't know what would be the correct fix. Ofcourse sucking everything out, vacuuming and refillig with new refrigerant would work
@@vickypollards recovery with a line filter then re charging the system
Is that PSI reading with the unit running on max cooling setting? And what's the outside air temp?
it was on max. Temperatures were very hot outside, as it was filmed early August.
@@SaveGreenHere thank you
I have a Senville unit and the outdoor unit is freezing up. It threw an error code OC EL. Talked to Senville through warranty and they want me to pressure test with indoor unit on heating at 86F and are saying I should get a PSI of 390-410.
If I follow video directions can I do this test in heating mode like they've requested or will process be different?
This is to be done in cooling only
Once you open precharge ports with Allan wrench, do they remain open? Do you ever close them?
No because you will stop the flow of the refrigerant.
@@SaveGreenHere Thanks
Installing a new Senneville 9000 BTU at the cottage. Having difficulty finding a tech to install come. I have 32 ft of line and the unit is pre-charged with 30 oz of 410a, enough for 25 ft.Spec says 1.127 oz of 410a is required for the extra 7 ft.. Will the system run without harm without the extra 1.127 oz ( about 3% less) ? How much less efficient? Thanks for any assistance.
Just buy the 2 pound jug. Weigh it on an HVAC scale..... amzn.to/3O3WNw8 and weigh the EXACT weight of the jug with refrigerant. Add to your system, until you are minus (-) 1.27 oz on the scale. You should see the scale indicate the weight of the jug dropping (losing weight, lol) until you are about 1.2 oz. Here's the 2 pound jug..... ebay.us/E2BJn1
If the unit hold 1050 gm gas how much is the pressure ?
I can't see the links to order freon and gauges. Thank you
It's in the video description, but here is a copy/paste of the video description links...... Link to Extra refrigerant........... ebay.us/YKjza2
The affordable HVAC gauges..... amzn.to/31nTA1Y
Senville Mini Split 3/4 ton... amzn.to/2UiJhc5
Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
2 stage vacuum pump..... amzn.to/2JWdeM4
Mini split Air cond, 220v under $390…. ebay.us/IXgoHW
Mini split Heat pump, 220v under $480… ebay.us/MY2vY7
Mini split Air cond, 110v under $400….. ebay.us/jyUE9P
Mini split Heat pump, 110v under 385.... ebay.us/ez2AWh
Pad for outdoor... amzn.to/2EMd9Iy
Refrigerant line protector kit... amzn.to/2Um1DZI
Power cord.............. amzn.to/2XrPgQI
Discount one year of Amazon Prime... amzn.to/2qz0RPa
Kit to add outside plug..... amzn.to/2Y73aVE
Nylog blue sealer on flare ends.... amzn.to/33iYLkS
Or, use this gasket kit for flare connection... amzn.to/36LzxPa
Alternate tankless water heater models CHEAP!... ebay.us/B1ssST
So I had a terrible AC service guy come out. Broke the fan on the inside unit but told me he charged the pound I lost and tightened one fitting that was leaking and said after I fix the inside fan I should be good.
Fixed the fan and no cold air. Followed your video and I have 0 pressure when running however when it’s off it holds at 50psi.
I know I need refrigerant but if it’s holding at 50 do you think I still have a leak?
You most likely do. Most likely the leak is at the flare connection. See any one of these two videos, and use a method to eliminate the possibility of future leaks, otherwise you will always end up adding refrigerant every Summer.
ruclips.net/video/gND6-4gjs-4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/hQjOhWkGmM4/видео.html
Does the manifold gage line need to be evacuated before you connect to the unit?
Technically, yes. He could have purged it by letting just a touch of refrigerant out, OR the line could still have refrigerant in it depending on what type of hose he's using. Good question though.
I just use that set on ONLY 410a but if on different refrigerant you should have it purged.
Thanks for the responses. So if I were to have my hose slightly loose at the manifold set attachment point, then connect to the mini split connection point. It would bleed a bit of refrigerant out the hose at the gage connection,this clearing the line and not pulling any contaminants into the system?
My suction temperature is 48F. Suction pressure is 94PSI. 70 outside. Supply 46.6F. Return 67.6F. Delta T 21F. Unit was low. I added 2.65 lb of 410. But low side would not go to 120psi. Mini split in a full blast. Any ideas? Thank you!
You have to continuously open and close the blue know to keep slowly releasing freon into the system that which your refrigerant bottle will be upside down connected to the yellow line
Where did you manage to get the 410A? Most online sellers won't sell to the public.
@@TheTinkle1 Make sure you put your bottle on a scale!! You don't want to overcharge the thing.
If the unit are not cooling, what will i do next?
Is it blowing hot air, or not running at all?
You might need Freon?
if we have multizone do we have to do it to all zones or is all zone all connected?
Great question.
The access point is a manifold and goes to all zones, it's just on the inner part of the housing. So... The answer to your question is: You don't do it to all lines. It would also not be possible LOL
I wish your links still worked. Can't find 410a anywhere.
I do have the newer links. The very first one on the video description reads: New 470a refrigerant that replaces 410a refrigerant, with Do-It-Yourself kit included..... ebay.us/tVSqEv This is because the 410a is being phased out and the 470a can be used no problem!
New 470a refrigerant that replaces 410a refrigerant, with Do-It-Yourself kit included..... ebay.us/tVSqEv
What is the outdoor temperature at this time?
Video was uploaded in August, so very, very hot!
Please why is the high pressure line frozen?
You need to provide more info so folks on here can help. For example, is the line frozen AND you have no cool air coming out inside? Then you may have a leak. So the first order is to find, and seal the leak, then add refrigerant.
If you have a leak on the connections, one of these two methods will help.....
ruclips.net/video/hQjOhWkGmM4/видео.html
Nylog blue sealer on flare ends.... amzn.to/33iYLkS
Or, use this gasket kit for flare connection... amzn.to/36LzxPa
@@SaveGreenHere lm refering to your video... why is the high pressure line frozen in your video ?
That unit had a refrigerant leak.
@@SaveGreenHere ok ..but I guess the low pressure side should be iced instead of high pressure side in the event of Freon leak..
@@safetyalways7788 If it's a 410A system (from the pressure it looks like it is, I've had a low refrigerant on a 410A unit and the high side iced up.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
We agree!
Thanks for information....!will do ! Rick
Any time!
When I open the low side valve. Refrigerant escapes out of the yellow line.. why?
Lolol
Thats cuz ur yellow hose is open. YOU DO NOT NEED TO OPEN YOUR LOW SIDE VALVE ON YOUR GAUGES TO MEASURE PRESSURE. What you're doing is allowing refrigerant into the manifold and you probably dont have a valve on the yellow hose so your essentially just taking refrigerant out of your system and pissing it away. Keep all valves on your gauges CLOSED, hook up your gauges, purge a little air out of the hose by cracking the hose fitting at ur gauge til u see refrigerant come out( just a little pssssst is all u need) tighten back up and u can read pressures. You do not need to let refrigerant into your manifold to read pressures. Unless its some cheap manifold that operates that way but normal manifolds measure pressure at the valve. I am a certified tech.
Is this a R410A system?
Yes it is.
What’s the sweet spot for r22 mini split
Have not seen an R22 mini split
Must be one of the first splits. Sweet spot would be around the 70-75 psi range. All of this depends on the Delta temps though
is it running? is it not?
It has to be running, and on cooling mode.
It’s Helpful. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Which port do you use if you have two access ports? I have a pioneer 24k btu mini split and it has two access ports
The one with the larger hose is the low side, thats the one you want
SaveGreenHere When one checks the refrigerant in a mini split when its running, is there a way to add back the refrigerant that is left in the low side line?
These valves keep the refrigerant from going into the atmosphere, ready for next time. You can also shut it at the point of entry to the unit, so if there is some refrigerant left, it stays in the line, and able to be used next time..... amzn.to/36pcIS3
@@SaveGreenHere can these type of adapter be hooked up on the AC for long term? u know acting as a extra safety/shutoff quick connector (so we can check pressure from time to time). this may be a longer term solution without much risk of losing alittle freon everytime hooking it up to the gauge?
Who makes gauges?
All these do...... amzn.to/3At7Yca
lots of things can go wrong. One must properly know how to use the guages or damage to the system can occur!!!
Correct!
Stand by pressure of AC gas
Thx for the video
Any time!
I like chicken 🍗
🤷♀️
GOSH my multi split system is 160Psi and it is still not cool enough.....
seems like i have brought a crappy ac
What is your outdoor temp, and how many BTU is your system?
actually, you do not want to over tighten the hose ends because it will ruin the rubber grommet seal in the hose end.
Yes, never overtighten.
Does the system need to be off to do this? Does the bottom need to be closed with allan wrench?
System on cooling, refrigerant lines need to be fully flowing, not closed.
@@SaveGreenHere I had a leak. Closed liquid line screw and put pressure to -30..then other screw.. Did a new flare on copper line. Hooked it back up..and vacuumed for 2 hours -30. No leaks! opened up both screws and pressure said 90. Added to 115 psi like you said with it on. After I shut it off it went to 200. Put it back on and it and started climbing to 300! The fan went really fast too. I shut it down. Think I did it right?
@@eddwinnas when charging a mini-split, especially after pulling a vacuum, you need to put in the refrigerant by weight. It goes in liquid (tank upside down) and should go in slowly.. little bit.. let the unit run.. then more.. etc., to avoid overcharging.
@@SaveGreenHere I work on car ac systems sometimes. On the these systems when you initally hookup the low side, the pressure would read high. When the compressor is turned on the psi would drop down to normal operating pressure. My question : Does a ductless operate the same?
@@SaveGreenHere so when you put system on cooling while charging… what temperature you should set ? 80 or 60 ?
And how much psi needed for Mr Cool