4:04 Universally the best feeling ever. All other attempts at doing something don't work until something FINALLY does and that feeling of pure elation is hard to put into words but usually just ends up shouting for joy really loud.
I'm glad your ball joint tool had the right sized cups. I have two ball joint tool kits, one for trucks and one for cars, and neither had cups that would fit the nearly non-existent lip on the Infinity G35 lower control arms. Either too big or too small. Had to buy an accessory pack of cups, but it was worth it because the variety of cups / tubes have come in handy for pressing bushings and other tasks. Thanks for another great video!
@NWGarage true, but way more expensive, especially if you want oem. This was an opportunity to save some money and make content on how to change a part rather than the whole assembly. I recently did a lower control arm swap on an F-150 because it was only about $30 more than just buying bushings. However, once I had the arm out, I was glad > made this choice because the bushings on the F-150 are quite nearly impossible to remove. Done this many times on other vehicles, but the F-150 uses a different type of bush and they DO NOT want to come out.
I had new Bilsteins installed on the front end of m 2003 4Runner. The shop said that the adjustment things for alignment were totally bad so the best course was to just replace both lower control arms along with the ball joints. Made sense to me.
I love your videos, nice to see someone working not from a hoist. However, at 6:18 when you say it’s completely seated, and there’s room from the c clip to the knuckle, and you can still see groove marks, are you sure that all joint is completely seated?
Bam Bam Rubble's Method: Place a 2nd hammer 180 degrees opposite the striking point delivers a greater shock to release the 360 binding torque between the removable object and the stationary object. The 2nd hammer will also deliver a secondary blow without you knowing. Bam Bam! You can also turn the C press and strike towards arm stationary arm. ⚒⚒
Im a pro this is one of the hardest ball joints I ever done on any car ever i done. I had to use a breaker bar with a jack handle I thought the ball joint press was going to explode with the amount of force i was putting on that press. I love how you can see the press flex back when it pops.
I did this recently on my 4runner. Absolutely miserable experience due to corrosion. If I ever have to do it again, I'll start it on a Friday afternoon and make sure I have Monday and Tuesday off from work just in case things don't go as planned and I need parts.
Please update us when the Moog lower ball joint starts having play in it. I’ll bet the Toyota joint with 240k on it on the passenger side outlast this new one.
Great work ,please have both hands on the disc cutter body, remember a mix of ATF & petrol will free any rust , apply when the job is set up and leave a few hours or overnight.
That ball joint didn't need heat, it needed you to swing that hammer like someone who's TV isn't stuck on MSNBC. Swing that 2 pounder, you are breaking rust not putting up a spice rack.
You need to pick up a Milwaukee 2967 1/2" high-torque impact. It'll put that air gun to shame. I was able to find a kit at Home Depot with the 1/2" high-torque and 3/8" mid-torque for a decent deal. Just make sure it's the 2967 model number for the 1/2".
Replace the entire arm instead, less work and the bushings are likely shot at the same time as the ball joint and the camber / caster bolts seize all the time so its a good time to clean them and anti-seize them.
I did the LBJ's on my tacoma this year. I hope I never have to do it again. Pain in the **** getting them off and some frustration getting the new ones back in. No Moog, Mevotech TTX, added the TTX for my sway bar links too.
I did some on a 1996 suburban 4wd once. I had to use heat. They had red locktite on the mount from the factory. When that first one popped. I was like hell yea. Also it required to put red locktite on the new ball joint mount. That suburban is still running.
That I believe is called a Needle Grease Zerk, Not like a Hypodermic one, Which I also have and use a lot more then I thought I would when I got it. if you notice the Zerk has a Ball and is held closed (Out Position) by a spring. I have started to see these more and more for instance my 1/2 impact has one, my 90° Sander/Air drill has one, The use a special attachment on the grease gun that fits perfectly in the hole and pushes the ball open allowing grease to enter then closes when you remove the adapter to keep dirt and water out. Instead of attaching like the old style it is all about how much pressure you apply to keep the grease from leaking out. I accidentally had dropped mine so now it leaks severely bad and I need a new one
I always take a little never seize( anti seize) use as part of my reinstallation process Obviously make sure the surface is clean and ready and a little goes a long way.
quick question, why not just replace the whole control arm instead of the ball joints themselves? at least you get a new ball joint and also new bushings, while also not needing nearly as many tools to remove the ball joints
It didn't look like you had any lubrication on the press's threads. Weird that the clip on that new balljoint was hovering above the surface of the control arm.
just had this issue with my 05 im at 241k boe and i got it at 119k in 2018 but my ball joints are bad and instead of doing what they ass say is new control arm i just replaced the joints.😂
You used knurled ball joints. Those are for when the holes in the knuckle are out of spec and a smooth wall ball joint won't seat securely. Did you notice any non-knurled versions when you were looking to buy new ones?
@@tacticalcenter8658 Idk, i use Corteco, Sachs, Meyle or Lemforder here in EU but as i saw almost all brands are chinese now, at least they look decent, with regrease point.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Idk i use Corteco, Sachs, Lemfordedr and Meyle here in EU, but look decent and with regrease point thats something to have in mind, maybe in suspension arms they are not that good but in joints are good, but as i saw most of brands are Chinese now.
That grease fitting, u use a pointed end fitting on grease gun.🤮 ANOTHER thing, I hear TONS of negativity on MOOG parts. I'm 71, & when I was a teen, MOOG was the "bomb." Not today. Yep, living in the rust belt, u have my sympathy.👍
i hate to see you struggling man this is a pain to watch do some research it cost 150$ for a hydrolic press at harbor freight couldve done this in 5 minutes and 0 human strength needed
Moog stuff is absolute crap, they used to be the best but have obviously sold out to the lowest bidder, buy sankei Japanese lowers for these trucks, the grease zerk makes no difference on the moog part it will fail within 10k miles
OMG STOP please NEVER heat up a ball joint. This guy is going to get people hurt. Heat building up in the joint can go off like a grenade. I thought i had seen dumb things before but OMG this is right up there. Like a pressure cooker but only tiny. That joint will go off with the stud plus the joint base in other direction. I have seen newbs do this and it left a 1 inch deep blast in the cement floor of the shop. This guy dont even know what kind of grease fitting that is. Because he does not know what he is doing and talking about. This guy also does NOT know how to tap threads.
quick question, why not just replace the whole control arm instead of the ball joints themselves? at least you get a new ball joint and also new bushings, while also not needing nearly as many tools to remove the ball joints
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
4:04 Universally the best feeling ever. All other attempts at doing something don't work until something FINALLY does and that feeling of pure elation is hard to put into words but usually just ends up shouting for joy really loud.
Great job, heat/torch aka hot wrench really does the trick with old crusty suspension 👍👍
It's genuinely enjoyable to watch you through your journey of slowly tackling bigger and bigger jobs
It is a needle grease fitting. I bought one as an accessory to my lock n lube grease gun. My front drive shaft gets the slip joint greased that way.
Love all your lights and light panels you use , wish other you tubers would be up to the spec you are
I'm glad your ball joint tool had the right sized cups. I have two ball joint tool kits, one for trucks and one for cars, and neither had cups that would fit the nearly non-existent lip on the Infinity G35 lower control arms. Either too big or too small. Had to buy an accessory pack of cups, but it was worth it because the variety of cups / tubes have come in handy for pressing bushings and other tasks. Thanks for another great video!
Why not just replace the whole lower arm? It would come with everything and save you a lot of labor
@NWGarage true, but way more expensive, especially if you want oem. This was an opportunity to save some money and make content on how to change a part rather than the whole assembly. I recently did a lower control arm swap on an F-150 because it was only about $30 more than just buying bushings. However, once I had the arm out, I was glad > made this choice because the bushings on the F-150 are quite nearly impossible to remove. Done this many times on other vehicles, but the F-150 uses a different type of bush and they DO NOT want to come out.
Just seen a early Toyota 4Runner with the v8, now I'm tempted to buy because of your videos
I had new Bilsteins installed on the front end of m 2003 4Runner. The shop said that the adjustment things for alignment were totally bad so the best course was to just replace both lower control arms along with the ball joints. Made sense to me.
The good thing about the old ball joint with the removable boot, you can replace just the boot if the ball joint is still good.
Heat and a good mini sledge hammer is always just a great way to start all ball joints 💪🏽💪🏽
Great video. These toyotas are notorious for balljoint problems. You might think about a balljoint eliminator kit, uniball instead of balljoint.
Great job Jimmy! I'm encouraged by your perseverance. Never give up! Never give in!
I love your videos, nice to see someone working not from a hoist.
However, at 6:18 when you say it’s completely seated, and there’s room from the c clip to the knuckle, and you can still see groove marks, are you sure that all joint is completely seated?
Bam Bam Rubble's Method:
Place a 2nd hammer 180 degrees opposite the striking point delivers a greater shock to release the 360 binding torque between the removable object and the stationary object.
The 2nd hammer will also deliver a secondary blow without you knowing. Bam Bam! You can also turn the C press and strike towards arm stationary arm. ⚒⚒
Paid 1200$ OTD for Original upper and lower control arms for my 07 4R, lasted 250k miles. I’m expecting another at least 250k on this new one
Im a pro this is one of the hardest ball joints I ever done on any car ever i done. I had to use a breaker bar with a jack handle I thought the ball joint press was going to explode with the amount of force i was putting on that press. I love how you can see the press flex back when it pops.
That grease fitting is the same found on some pneumatic impact wrenches to grease the hammer mechanism. Example would be the Ingersoll R000A2-228.
keep do the video I will watch your video and support you
I did this recently on my 4runner. Absolutely miserable experience due to corrosion. If I ever have to do it again, I'll start it on a Friday afternoon and make sure I have Monday and Tuesday off from work just in case things don't go as planned and I need parts.
Love your videos Jimmy. Very informative.. Keep up the good work my friend
3:58 best feeling ever
Please update us when the Moog lower ball joint starts having play in it. I’ll bet the Toyota joint with 240k on it on the passenger side outlast this new one.
I give it maybe half a year, but, this might be really be a knock off Moog from Japan since someone is getting paid.
Don't heat up your tools. Those cups are hardened, but you ruin that with the heat.
Great work ,please have both hands on the disc cutter body, remember a mix of ATF & petrol will free any rust , apply when the job is set up and leave a few hours or overnight.
Good video as always Jimmy!
That ball joint didn't need heat, it needed you to swing that hammer like someone who's TV isn't stuck on MSNBC. Swing that 2 pounder, you are breaking rust not putting up a spice rack.
Don't think you're supposed to see the splicers on the lower joint install. under the C-clip. the C- clip look's to have too much space under it?
Great video!
Looks like the new joint has a noticeable space between the C clip and the lower control arm. I’m a big believer in OEM parts.
You need to pick up a Milwaukee 2967 1/2" high-torque impact. It'll put that air gun to shame. I was able to find a kit at Home Depot with the 1/2" high-torque and 3/8" mid-torque for a decent deal. Just make sure it's the 2967 model number for the 1/2".
my favorite... its a beast
Replace the entire arm instead, less work and the bushings are likely shot at the same time as the ball joint and the camber / caster bolts seize all the time so its a good time to clean them and anti-seize them.
Ball Joint needs to be pressed in more too.
And that why I replaced my lca’s… just wait until he has to do the alignment!
Great Job!
I did the LBJ's on my tacoma this year. I hope I never have to do it again. Pain in the **** getting them off and some frustration getting the new ones back in.
No Moog, Mevotech TTX, added the TTX for my sway bar links too.
I did some on a 1996 suburban 4wd once. I had to use heat. They had red locktite on the mount from the factory. When that first one popped. I was like hell yea. Also it required to put red locktite on the new ball joint mount. That suburban is still running.
That I believe is called a Needle Grease Zerk, Not like a Hypodermic one, Which I also have and use a lot more then I thought I would when I got it. if you notice the Zerk has a Ball and is held closed (Out Position) by a spring. I have started to see these more and more for instance my 1/2 impact has one, my 90° Sander/Air drill has one, The use a special attachment on the grease gun that fits perfectly in the hole and pushes the ball open allowing grease to enter then closes when you remove the adapter to keep dirt and water out. Instead of attaching like the old style it is all about how much pressure you apply to keep the grease from leaking out. I accidentally had dropped mine so now it leaks severely bad and I need a new one
I would say once you have the right tools you can do it
I always take a little never seize( anti seize) use as part of my reinstallation process
Obviously make sure the surface is clean and ready and a little goes a long way.
quick question, why not just replace the whole control arm instead of the ball joints themselves? at least you get a new ball joint and also new bushings, while also not needing nearly as many tools to remove the ball joints
A small torch is invaluable for working on vieceles and plumbing repairs 🤣
What kind of knuckle did you buy? What manufacturer?
The threads on your balljoint press looked pretty dry man, best to keep those bastards well oiled so you dont tear them up.
Here's Why You DON'T MESS WITH Factory Toyota Lower Ball Joints!!
Arm bushings?
It didn't look like you had any lubrication on the press's threads. Weird that the clip on that new balljoint was hovering above the surface of the control arm.
just had this issue with my 05 im at 241k boe and i got it at 119k in 2018 but my ball joints are bad and instead of doing what they ass say is new control arm i just replaced the joints.😂
This is why I just buy preloaded control arms
Resonate frequency hammer taps.
Upper control arm bushings!!!
Honestly just replace the whole lower control arm. MUCH easier.
Your front diferencial is low on fluid
Your lower ball joint is not fully seated..
you can still see the teeth..
Jimmy, The Struggle Was Real....
Love the video as usual! I am curious why the new lower ball joint seem to be setting just a little more proud than the older one?
I saw that as well. 🤷♂️
You used knurled ball joints. Those are for when the holes in the knuckle are out of spec and a smooth wall ball joint won't seat securely. Did you notice any non-knurled versions when you were looking to buy new ones?
Almost full front rebuild will drive as a new one or better with those moog!!
Look at Moog reviews. They are not a good brand anymore.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Idk, i use Corteco, Sachs, Meyle or Lemforder here in EU but as i saw almost all brands are chinese now, at least they look decent, with regrease point.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Idk i use Corteco, Sachs, Lemfordedr and Meyle here in EU, but look decent and with regrease point thats something to have in mind, maybe in suspension arms they are not that good but in joints are good, but as i saw most of brands are Chinese now.
The old ball joint look like it was still in good shape. What was wrong with it?
He says why in the video @ 8:57
Why not to swap the rubber boot on cv axle? Cheaper.
'Here's Why Not to Replace Your LOWER BALL JOINTS!'
That grease fitting, u use a pointed end fitting on grease gun.🤮 ANOTHER thing, I hear TONS of negativity on MOOG parts. I'm 71, & when I was a teen, MOOG was the "bomb." Not today. Yep, living in the rust belt, u have my sympathy.👍
Now replace the a-arm bushings. 🙄🙄🙄
Don't buy the MOOG ball joint, it may be MOOG but it's made in Taiwan not Japan. Doesn't even have a grease zerk, just the grease needle
i hate to see you struggling man this is a pain to watch do some research it cost 150$ for a hydrolic press at harbor freight couldve done this in 5 minutes and 0 human strength needed
Moog stuff is absolute crap, they used to be the best but have obviously sold out to the lowest bidder, buy sankei Japanese lowers for these trucks, the grease zerk makes no difference on the moog part it will fail within 10k miles
OMG STOP please NEVER heat up a ball joint. This guy is going to get people hurt. Heat building up in the joint can go off like a grenade. I thought i had seen dumb things before but OMG this is right up there. Like a pressure cooker but only tiny. That joint will go off with the stud plus the joint base in other direction. I have seen newbs do this and it left a 1 inch deep blast in the cement floor of the shop. This guy dont even know what kind of grease fitting that is. Because he does not know what he is doing and talking about. This guy also does NOT know how to tap threads.
Lol, poor guy having such a hard time.
Heat and a good mini sledge hammer is always just a great way to start all ball joints 💪🏽💪🏽
quick question, why not just replace the whole control arm instead of the ball joints themselves? at least you get a new ball joint and also new bushings, while also not needing nearly as many tools to remove the ball joints