Alright a series of issues I ran into this did not address or due to me driving a different 2010 model, the se. I had to whack the old rotor off with a hammer to loosen it from the corrosion and rust (hitting the old rotor that needed to be replaced on the top left, bottom right, top right, and bottom left would not recommend if you plan to try to save the rotor). I then tried to do it his way with taking the 15mm bolts off and tried putting the brakes on. This did not work for me and I broke one of those metal clips on the brake pads and also screwed up the clips inside the caliper trying. I would highly recommend you to instead take the 14 millimeter bolts off first that are holding the sliders (the sliders are where the boots are being moved). This way you separate the caliper from what are holding the brake pads. When you do this the brake pads are still on the rotor and I removed the 15mm bolts that he does in this video. I had the piece that held the brake pads in my hands rather than being attached to the car. They slid right in and I removed the sliders and greased them. I also had much more room to c-clamp the caliper to ease the pressure which I was also struggling with due to having a bigger c-clamp. I got everything I needed at my local Autozone. Hope this helps those who were struggling like me. Thank you for the video, it does have good tips that helped.
Funny it snows in your video as I'm looking to squeeze this job in before a snow myself and I just might get snowed on lol. That and all 4 tires changed.
You removed the pad bracket with the caliper still bolted onto it. Unbolt the caliper first so that the guide pins can be cleaned and regreased. Thanks for the video.
Well it depends on the budget and application honestly. This was my mother’s car that isn’t driven that much so the cheap brand was ok. But on my jeeps that have lift kits and huge tires i use power stop breaks. If i knew what you were going to put breaks on I could guide you better as well as the budget.
Looking to finally learn a skill I shoulda had years ago. Thanks for the video!
its easier to take the caliper bolts loose before you take the caliper bracket off, i always take it all apart and replace all the boots and hardware.
Hi. I just changed my brakes on my 2011 Ford Focus. It went well without a hitch!
Alright a series of issues I ran into this did not address or due to me driving a different 2010 model, the se. I had to whack the old rotor off with a hammer to loosen it from the corrosion and rust (hitting the old rotor that needed to be replaced on the top left, bottom right, top right, and bottom left would not recommend if you plan to try to save the rotor). I then tried to do it his way with taking the 15mm bolts off and tried putting the brakes on. This did not work for me and I broke one of those metal clips on the brake pads and also screwed up the clips inside the caliper trying. I would highly recommend you to instead take the 14 millimeter bolts off first that are holding the sliders (the sliders are where the boots are being moved). This way you separate the caliper from what are holding the brake pads. When you do this the brake pads are still on the rotor and I removed the 15mm bolts that he does in this video. I had the piece that held the brake pads in my hands rather than being attached to the car. They slid right in and I removed the sliders and greased them. I also had much more room to c-clamp the caliper to ease the pressure which I was also struggling with due to having a bigger c-clamp. I got everything I needed at my local Autozone. Hope this helps those who were struggling like me. Thank you for the video, it does have good tips that helped.
Thanks for the video. Changing pads and rotors on my 2010 tomorrow.
just replace the rotors and the pads its not that expensive for these cars.
Funny it snows in your video as I'm looking to squeeze this job in before a snow myself and I just might get snowed on lol. That and all 4 tires changed.
I did my brake job on the first day it started to lightly snow, exactly on December 1st - so I just squeezed 'er in there.
You don’t need to bleed the brakes? Is that why you left that brake cap open so the air goes thru out that oil canister?
Good job. Very informative video.
Like it man,good job!
Thank you
Thank you so much.👍
You removed the pad bracket with the caliper still bolted onto it. Unbolt the caliper first so that the guide pins can be cleaned and regreased. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video. Great information. Subscribed and hit the bell.
Thanks for the vid
You didn’t clean or lube anything! Lol man bet those things were noisy in a week lol
Bud I would have turned the rotors
Capri 82 I actually was going to BUT they couldn’t get it done by the time I had to leave out. Thanks for watching and the info .
My pads from orioles have an extra tab on one side. Anybody know if it goes on the inside or out side.. urgh
inside
👍🏼👍🏼🎥
I just watched like 5 different videos and not one of you guys explained the position in which the brake pads are installed, but I figured it out
Terrance Mullee they should only fit one way in
The pad part faces the rotator and the curved long run end should be in the bottom
Terrance m I apologize for that I guess I just figured it was obvious lol.
1+1=2
We live in a society.......
What is the best brake brand?
Well it depends on the budget and application honestly. This was my mother’s car that isn’t driven that much so the cheap brand was ok. But on my jeeps that have lift kits and huge tires i use power stop breaks. If i knew what you were going to put breaks on I could guide you better as well as the budget.
okebono pads bosh rotors
What is the c clamp for??
Compressing the piston. Otherwise you won’t be able to fit the caliper back on the rotor after putting new, thicker pads on.
compress the piston, but there is a tool for that that works much better and is easier to use.
Please turn your rotors ! Eeeh !
John Garcez lol I was going to but they couldn’t get it done b 4 I had to leave on a trip.