It can be removed in 2 hours or less without removing the radiator, jack up car you remove the fan closest to alternator,battery, plastic pieces on bottom top and plastic piece on side of wheel well, use gear wrenches for the back two bolts on alternator should be a 15mm. There is a plate on bottom side of car below alternator remove that it opens up a larger cavity instead of a slot, alternator will fit right through that with the one fan removed.
45 minute job. Half the stuff people say to remove, fuel lines, etc, do not need to come off. The manifold can be lifted and put aside without complete removal for easy access. The alt takes way longer.
@@electric8668 I will if I ever have to take it off again. However, I did give step by step instructions for the starter removal; on another video I watched and posted it below. Hope it helps. I'm not knocking this video in any way, but it can be done much quicker. I tackled this today and had the starter out in an hour and a half and about 45 minutes to reinstall. If I had to do it again; I could do it in an hour or less. Most of the time I spent taking it off was studying it and walking back and forth for tools, but I'm gonna save you that trouble. I had read a comment on this post, or another one, saying there is an easier way by just propping the manifold up. The guy didn't give instructions, but I understood what he was saying and figured it out. Simply remove the engine cover, pull the 4 plug wires closest to the front of the car and hang them over the back rail, remove the bolt (10 mm) on the EGR Valve that holds a portion of the back side rail down. It's close to where the fuel lines come into the rail close to the back right bolt on the manifold. Remove the four bolts (deep well 10 mm socket, or wrench) holding the fuel rails down over the manifold, two on the front rail and two on the back rail. Take the 6 bolts (10 mm) out of the manifold, the left front and right rear bolts will not come completely out as the rails prevent it, just leave them after you've loosened them all the way. The only thing that is a little tricky is removing the back right manifold bolt because of the angle. I had to use a socket adapter that has a built on extension piece that swivels so I could go in at an angle, because the fuel rail prevents you from getting at it from the top, but it beats taking the whole fuel assembly off. I used a 1/4 inch drive to loosen that one and to take the one on the EGR Valve off. I used a 3/8 drive for the rest. Remove the rubber boot that goes from the air cleaner to the manifold, front right. At this point the manifold will lift up, but there are few vacuum lines/hoses that have to be removed, but you'll see them when you try and lift the manifold up as they'll hang up. Prop the left side of the manifold up enough to get to the starter, about 10 inches. Remove the positive and solenoid nuts, lock washers, and flat washers for both. If they fall no worries, there is nowhere for them to go. I think the solenoid lead is 8 mm and the positive lead is 15 mm. After that, take the two bolts out that hold the starter in place and remove it I think those are 10 mm. Take the two old gaskets out and snap the new ones to the manifold that's propped up.
When reassembling the starter, there is plenty of wire, so put the positive and solenoid leads on first before putting the mounting bolts back in. You can do it either way, but it's easier to do it up top than down below. This is the opposite of taking it out, why? Because when the starter is mounted in the car, I found it easier to just ratchet them off while it's anchored. When putting them back on, I like being up top as it's easier to put the washers and nuts back on as the solenoid ones are tiny. Word of CAUTION, if you put them back on up top, you will be working close to the manifold holes, so have them covered in case you drop a nut/washer. One more thing, be sure to make sure the two leads to the starter are nice and clean before reinstalling. I tackled this because I paid someone to do this a year ago and i knew my starter wasn't bad, plus I've had a bad run of luck with cars this month and I'm trying stop the hemorrhaging. Sure enough, the person didn't take the few extra minutes to clean the leads when he installed the new starter last year cause she's purring now . The job is not hard, it looks intimidating and I'm sure it is a "pain in the butt", especially when you take everything off, but it's not bad at all if you do it the way I have described. Feel free to ask if you have any questions. Now, go save some money, because the Caddy dealer will rape you.
This is a great video...very well shown and explained. The job is not unlike replacing the A/C Compressor on all the 3.8,s Olds etc from the 90.s. Thanks Ecanix, just what i needed to know
If the replacement alt doesn’t fit you will have to open that same little sleeve on the new alt.. I usually use a small punch and a hammer and open it up
It can be removed in 2 hours or less without removing the radiator, jack up car you remove the fan closest to alternator,battery, plastic pieces on bottom top and plastic piece on side of wheel well, use gear wrenches for the back two bolts on alternator should be a 15mm. There is a plate on bottom side of car below alternator remove that it opens up a larger cavity instead of a slot, alternator will fit right through that with the one fan removed.
you are a smart person
A 96 Seville doesn't have the access panel below the alternator, only the Deville does..
Wait to you have to change the starter, oh boy.
Electric yea isn’t that the stupidest design ever lol..
45 minute job. Half the stuff people say to remove, fuel lines, etc, do not need to come off. The manifold can be lifted and put aside without complete removal for easy access. The alt takes way longer.
@@da324 It would be nice if you would post a video of you doing that job in 45 minutes or less. BTW I agree the alternator is a Bear to replace.
@@electric8668 I will if I ever have to take it off again. However, I did give step by step instructions for the starter removal; on another video I watched and posted it below. Hope it helps.
I'm not knocking this video in any way, but it can be done much quicker. I tackled this today and had the starter out in an hour and a half and about 45 minutes to reinstall. If I had to do it again; I could do it in an hour or less. Most of the time I spent taking it off was studying it and walking back and forth for tools, but I'm gonna save you that trouble. I had read a comment on this post, or another one, saying there is an easier way by just propping the manifold up. The guy didn't give instructions, but I understood what he was saying and figured it out.
Simply remove the engine cover, pull the 4 plug wires closest to the front of the car and hang them over the back rail, remove the bolt (10 mm) on the EGR Valve that holds a portion of the back side rail down. It's close to where the fuel lines come into the rail close to the back right bolt on the manifold. Remove the four bolts (deep well 10 mm socket, or wrench) holding the fuel rails down over the manifold, two on the front rail and two on the back rail. Take the 6 bolts (10 mm) out of the manifold, the left front and right rear bolts will not come completely out as the rails prevent it, just leave them after you've loosened them all the way. The only thing that is a little tricky is removing the back right manifold bolt because of the angle. I had to use a socket adapter that has a built on extension piece that swivels so I could go in at an angle, because the fuel rail prevents you from getting at it from the top, but it beats taking the whole fuel assembly off. I used a 1/4 inch drive to loosen that one and to take the one on the EGR Valve off. I used a 3/8 drive for the rest. Remove the rubber boot that goes from the air cleaner to the manifold, front right. At this point the manifold will lift up, but there are few vacuum lines/hoses that have to be removed, but you'll see them when you try and lift the manifold up as they'll hang up. Prop the left side of the manifold up enough to get to the starter, about 10 inches. Remove the positive and solenoid nuts, lock washers, and flat washers for both. If they fall no worries, there is nowhere for them to go. I think the solenoid lead is 8 mm and the positive lead is 15 mm. After that, take the two bolts out that hold the starter in place and remove it I think those are 10 mm. Take the two old gaskets out and snap the new ones to the manifold that's propped up.
When reassembling the starter, there is plenty of wire, so put the positive and solenoid leads on first before putting the mounting bolts back in. You can do it either way, but it's easier to do it up top than down below. This is the opposite of taking it out, why? Because when the starter is mounted in the car, I found it easier to just ratchet them off while it's anchored. When putting them back on, I like being up top as it's easier to put the washers and nuts back on as the solenoid ones are tiny. Word of CAUTION, if you put them back on up top, you will be working close to the manifold holes, so have them covered in case you drop a nut/washer. One more thing, be sure to make sure the two leads to the starter are nice and clean before reinstalling. I tackled this because I paid someone to do this a year ago and i knew my starter wasn't bad, plus I've had a bad run of luck with cars this month and I'm trying stop the hemorrhaging. Sure enough, the person didn't take the few extra minutes to clean the leads when he installed the new starter last year cause she's purring now . The job is not hard, it looks intimidating and I'm sure it is a "pain in the butt", especially when you take everything off, but it's not bad at all if you do it the way I have described. Feel free to ask if you have any questions. Now, go save some money, because the Caddy dealer will rape you.
@@da324 Cool
Great edit.. or magical powers?
Either way I don't pocess the ability to loosen bolts and make anything disappear. Well done.
This is a great video...very well shown and explained. The job is not unlike replacing the A/C Compressor on all the 3.8,s Olds etc from the 90.s. Thanks Ecanix, just what i needed to know
You went a few extra steps by removing the radiator but,it certainly makes it easier to gain access, good job.
A 96 Seville has to be done that way as only the Devilles have an access panel
Thanks the 10th power!!! This helped me tremendously!!!
Wait battery hold up what kinda car is this
I have every bolt out of the alt and it's barely moving. Any idea what might be holding it in?
Yes, pry on it with a pry bar… they have sleeves on the main through bolt that tightens down on the bracket… pry on it
If the replacement alt doesn’t fit you will have to open that same little sleeve on the new alt.. I usually use a small punch and a hammer and open it up
@@ecanixgarage1106 thanks!
My sts is a 02 with battery in back seat
Can you not get to it from the bottom?
you can
@@Truezy Not all of them have an access panel.