You have done a fantastic job rebuilding the front end, im glad i could help, brilliant video, and thank you so much for the shoutout , best wishes mate 👍👍👍
Excellent methodical video presentation yet again - many thanks for taking the time to film and share. We appreciate the time it takes. Mack and Maggie, Huddersfield.
Thank you matey 👌👍. That's a good idea, I've covered mine in Waxoyl, but that stuff doesn't seem to perform as good as it did in the 90s. Whether the formula has changed or not, I don't know. 🤔... 😉👌👍👍👍.
I've heard it's good stuff, if the waxoyl isn't doing it's job in a year's time I shall have a try with Lanoguard. The only issue for me, is the cost of that stuff as I've used 20lts so far on the underside of my van "😬" 😉👌👍👍👍.
Thank you Richie 👌👍, however, I would suggest that you should stick to the workshop manual because the way I did it was a pain in the butt to get that belly plate back on 😅😉👌👍👍👍.
Thanks for sharing, Great Job, i have to do the same on my 2010 lwb. Seems to be exactly the same.. Searched nearly 2 years for a good used one.. they all have rust issues.
great video mate once again,,,still working on my van ,and should look a bit like yours when done,,,never struggled so much repairing a vehicle,,,snapped and rusty bolts all over suspension,,,,,,my biggest problem at the minute is removing the abs sensor,,,need to work on wheel bearing ,,,,, any ifo from anyone would be appreciated ,,,,cheers mate
Don't give up hope bud, these van's can be challenging at times, trust me 😉👍. Personally I've not touched the ABS sensors as I've had no issues with those nor the bearings. Probably best to ask on the 'Iveco' forums regarding you're situation as there be someone on there who's actually done what your hoping to do bud 😉👌. I can only give advice upon the jobs that I've actually done upon my van. 😉👍👍👍.
@@Iveavan ok mate thanks for that ,,,cant give up,,got too much money invested in it ,,,maybe if the rain keeps off i can sort it soon,,,,let you know mate ..thanks mate
No worries mate, I just don't feel comfortable in giving advice with something that 'I've personally not tackled myself' nor would I. It wouldn't be fair upon you (or other's) if I 'bullshited' a job and gave you advice upon an task that I've actually not done. If you look upon the 'video description' you will find some excellent Iveco Daily groups who will be able to help you mate 😊👌👍...
@@Iveavan totally get where your coming from mate ,,,,,when i find out how its done i will let you know ,,but dont take it to heart when the shft,,you take it or leave it for me ,,,,,it works or it doent ..no regrets
No! Totally agree with you bud "👊,,😉👍. Nor do I take it to heart mate. Hands up! I don't know the answer to all thing's 'Iveco Daily'. I definitely do get things wrong in which I'm more then happy to share upon here so others can learn, so any feedback is valuable (good and bad) I reply to all. Hope you find the answer your looking for within the forums bud 😊👌👍👍👍.
I understand why you built it up on the bench (for video purposes), but I bet getting that belly plate bolted down was a nightmare, as its hard enough doing it on the van. All power to you mate. I'd also suggest that you go around and double check every nut and bolt for torque.
Yes, not having the tension of the transverse spring taken off the belly plate whilst fitting it is definitely more awkward. Definitely best off doing it whilst the subframe is in its fixed position upon the van and using two Jack's under each bottom arm to take the tension of the spring in order to fit the bottom plate. I've not included the torque settings within this video (unlike the rear suspension video) as there's so many of them it would of slowed the video down. Cheers matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Easy job, I would have formed some sheet and welded into the same areas that failed. Basically bolstered the weak points, if you go that far it's got to be worth doing.
Yes, an easy job welding wise bud, a gusset plate would of sufficed but having infilled the cracks with weld and welded over the top of that weld will be stronger then the parent metal that I've welded too. Naturally, when van is sat on the ground, the steering rack gaiter is very close to rubbing the subframe so I didn't want to build out potentially causing more issues, hence no gusset plate, anywhere else I would of fitted one. Cheers matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Torque settings are easy to find online and I was surprised you included them in the other video to be honest. I was thinking more about you checking all the nuts and bolts for tightness before you go on your first proper drive.
@@one-man-and-his-Rottie yes, I totally agree bud 👌👍. 30 years of being an 'Field Service engineer' for two of the biggest material handling manufacturers in the world, 'JCB & Jungheinrich' you can be rest assured that I've checked and torqued all necessary nuts and bolts matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Great video.....At approx 11min 30 you are refitting the top arm....My son is currently trying to change his as it has snapped...However he is really struggling getting the top left hand side bolt out as it is fouling on a bracket,yet you seem to put your bolt back in no problem....Any advice/tips anyone please ????
Is his a later model like the mk4 ? Where is it hitting the cab to chassis mount? If so, I know someone who had this problem before, I believe he had to actually unbolt that mount from the chassis to enable to remove and fit that top arm bolt, unfortunately, bud. 👌👍.
@@Iveavan if you think about it it’s right tho if you tighten when suspension is at rest there’s no stress but doing it your way it’s constantly twisting the bush it’s got to make it fail earlier
But it has an floating metal sleeve insterted within a nylon bush which is inserted into the rubber bush. The metal sleeve prevents any matter of conflict with the rubber bush itself upon mine. My arms have free floating bushes matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Just my quickish 2c on these as I work on them a lot - when you go look for replacement parts, there's a huge "variation" in costs.. Iveco themself will usually pull your pants down for every component. The bill for parts WILL be eye-watering if you take that route. As will plenty others. I kinda knew what the "Variety" of quotes for parts would be - I wanted to give the customer a few options/the best deal. First I rang Iveco direct for a laugh - their version was telephone numbers even before I stopped listening.. Let's Not.. I then rang 2 independent suppliers - it can be a Lottery/What mood they are in.. First rang back with a quote just shy of a grand. Or about half what Iveco wanted. Second didn't ring back so I rang them again to poke them - parts dropped in the yard, everything needed, all German made gear, just shy of 400 quid, tax included. Mint - go for it. Shop around, because parts for these vary hugely in price depending where you shop
We're also good at fixing Iveco emission issues - just saying like. I've never worked on one where we were "First" at the party - we always get them after someone else has had a go - pretty much the same as for the rust.. They come in with the passenger footwell littered with "bitsa" stuff... "Erm... can ye refit those bits while you're there.....?" No bother, Pal. 🙂
Yes, you definitely do need to shop around for parts 👌👍 the one's that I've shared probably will not be the cheapest, more for ease for door step delivery for myself.... Do you want to share your contact details? It may help those over in Ireland who are looking for their van to be repaired bud 😉👌👍👍👍. (share it within the pinned comment as an reply matey 👌👍)....
I have front suspension on torsion bars on my 50C14. Which one do you think is better, between yours and mine, and why? Mine has never been serviced before. I am the first one that replaced a pair of ball joints but when warm weather returns, i will have to do a similar restoration job like you did, so i am wondering whether a suspension conversion is justified or not. Thanks in advance!
I think the true test would be upon a drive and compare test, I've never driven the C class chassis one, but both seem to be the suspension choice of yesteryear compared to modern suspension equivalents and agricultural mind you. If I was to retrofit a suspension, I'd probably opt for a SWB Iveco and make it into a 4x4 variant using some sort of heavy duty 4x4 donor vehicle 😉👌👍...
Cheers bud 👌👍. I've had these blocks for years from verious jobs, there's a link for the newer plastic/rubber blocks within the description of this video bud 😉👍👍👍.
I've never tried Lanoguard, bud. I've always used Waxoyl over the past 30 years, so I can't honestly compare the two ( all I know is Lanoguard is much more expensive ) 👌👍.
It's going in for it's MOT in a couple of weeks bud so I will find out what's it is like out on the road. However, just going up and down on the driveway there's definitely a noticeable difference of it being more of an 'comfortable ride'. But! The real test will be on the 'world's worst roads' which are all in 'Hull' 😉👌👍👍👍.
@@Iveavan I believe that the metal sleeve is vulcanized onto the rubber, and does not move, therefore when you put load on the arms the rubber will twist, and stay twisted on driving. My thoughts is that the rubber will stay in a stressed position, when not thightent under load.
Dead easy to reassemble some of the bits upside down then nothing lines up, but it's only a little out so you don't realise you messed it up and spend two days forcing it until giving up and getting in someone else .... I was that someone else, but I was only laughing on the inside.... Honest
Links to all parts used and Project Camper are within the 'video description' 👌👍.
You have done a fantastic job rebuilding the front end, im glad i could help, brilliant video, and thank you so much for the shoutout , best wishes mate 👍👍👍
No worries matey and thanks for your advice bud 👊😉👌👍👍👍.
You make it look very straight forward but this has given me the insight to have a go myself now, thanks Mark
Cool! Just make sure you give all nuts and bolts a good soak with WD40 first like I did beforehand, I failed to mention that in the video. 😉👌👍...
Great back to basics mark . I have no comments on the quality of your work apart from top quality boss. Je
Thank You Je very kind of you bud 👊😉👌👍👍👍.
You did really well on your own and all with great explanation
Thank you Thomas 😉👌👍👍👍.
Excellent methodical video presentation yet again - many thanks for taking the time to film and share.
We appreciate the time it takes.
Mack and Maggie, Huddersfield.
Thank you Mack & Maggie 😉👌👍👍👍.
Great job well done, Iveco daily, the Sherman tank of vans 👍
Thank you matey & yes, there pretty much bomb proof 😉👌👍👍👍.
Fantastic job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you 👌👍...
عمل رائع جدا. شكرا على المشاركة.
Thank you 👌👍...
Love how serviceable these vans are. Doing a great job of the resto mate!
Yes Mark I'm with you on that bud, they can keep on going if looked after and maintained regularly. Cheers matey 👊😉👌👍👍👍.
@@Iveavan When this goes for an MOT - love to see the reaction - it's brand new haha
They won't appreciate it, it's all covered in waxoyl now on the underside bud 😅😉👌👍.
They really are indeed! Just by watching these videos, i am learning to appreciate my van more and more😅
I restore MGs. It's become a habit to spray all the nuts and bolts with lacquer after reassembly. Stops corrosion and looks good.. A beautiful job..
Thank you matey 👌👍. That's a good idea, I've covered mine in Waxoyl, but that stuff doesn't seem to perform as good as it did in the 90s. Whether the formula has changed or not, I don't know. 🤔... 😉👌👍👍👍.
I use Lanoguard on mine, easy application and does a great job.
I've heard it's good stuff, if the waxoyl isn't doing it's job in a year's time I shall have a try with Lanoguard. The only issue for me, is the cost of that stuff as I've used 20lts so far on the underside of my van "😬" 😉👌👍👍👍.
A huge amount of work, well done you and better than a workshop manual.
Thank you Richie 👌👍, however, I would suggest that you should stick to the workshop manual because the way I did it was a pain in the butt to get that belly plate back on 😅😉👌👍👍👍.
Another better Mark 👏🏻 already waiting for the next one 👌🏻
Thank you matey 👊😉👌👍👍👍...
another great video mate
Thank you Gary 😎👊👌👍👍👍.
I throughly enjoyed someone other than me struggling with mechanics 😂😂
😅. I'm glad I've made your bad day good bud "👊" 😊👍👍👍..
Good information
Thank you 🙂👌👍...
Matey....You nailed it this Job. You showed that front axle who's the boss!!!🙂
Haha😅. I just couldn't carry the sodding thing 😂... Cheers bud 😉👊👌👍👍👍.
@IVEAVAN It was funny, how told the trolly, where to go as well😄😄. Even the chuckle brothers would have used it for one of their sketches!!!
@@Astra8676 😅😂😅to me. To you! 😉👌👍.
@@Iveavan 😄😄😄😄
Enjoyed that mark. It was very informative how it all works .Hats off to you, pal. Another job well done 👏
Thank you matey very kind of you matey 👊😉👌👍👍👍....
HEALTH AND SAFETY, Always utilise mechanical aids when moving or lifting heavy objects. They can be fixed or replaced, your back can't!
Thanks for sharing, Great Job, i have to do the same on my 2010 lwb. Seems to be exactly the same.. Searched nearly 2 years for a good used one.. they all have rust issues.
No worries Thorsten & and good luck with you're van bud 😉👌👍👍👍.
Great video. Love it!
Thank you 😉 👌 👍....
Might be worth noting that different Daily front suspensions exist.
They is a torsion bar version (Turkish I think) on YT bud 😉👌👍👍👍.
good vid thanks lee
Cheers Lee 😉👌👍👍👍.
Awesome job uncle d##khead 🤣😂🤣👌🏻
😂😅Cheers matey 👊😎👌👍👍👍...
great video mate once again,,,still working on my van ,and should look a bit like yours when done,,,never struggled so much repairing a vehicle,,,snapped and rusty bolts all over suspension,,,,,,my biggest problem at the minute is removing the abs sensor,,,need to work on wheel bearing ,,,,, any ifo from anyone would be appreciated ,,,,cheers mate
Don't give up hope bud, these van's can be challenging at times, trust me 😉👍. Personally I've not touched the ABS sensors as I've had no issues with those nor the bearings. Probably best to ask on the 'Iveco' forums regarding you're situation as there be someone on there who's actually done what your hoping to do bud 😉👌. I can only give advice upon the jobs that I've actually done upon my van. 😉👍👍👍.
@@Iveavan ok mate thanks for that ,,,cant give up,,got too much money invested in it ,,,maybe if the rain keeps off i can sort it soon,,,,let you know mate ..thanks mate
No worries mate, I just don't feel comfortable in giving advice with something that 'I've personally not tackled myself' nor would I. It wouldn't be fair upon you (or other's) if I 'bullshited' a job and gave you advice upon an task that I've actually not done.
If you look upon the 'video description' you will find some excellent Iveco Daily groups who will be able to help you mate 😊👌👍...
@@Iveavan totally get where your coming from mate ,,,,,when i find out how its done i will let you know ,,but dont take it to heart when the shft,,you take it or leave it for me ,,,,,it works or it doent ..no regrets
No! Totally agree with you bud "👊,,😉👍. Nor do I take it to heart mate.
Hands up! I don't know the answer to all thing's 'Iveco Daily'.
I definitely do get things wrong in which I'm more then happy to share upon here so others can learn, so any feedback is valuable (good and bad) I reply to all. Hope you find the answer your looking for within the forums bud 😊👌👍👍👍.
I understand why you built it up on the bench (for video purposes), but I bet getting that belly plate bolted down was a nightmare, as its hard enough doing it on the van.
All power to you mate.
I'd also suggest that you go around and double check every nut and bolt for torque.
Yes, not having the tension of the transverse spring taken off the belly plate whilst fitting it is definitely more awkward. Definitely best off doing it whilst the subframe is in its fixed position upon the van and using two Jack's under each bottom arm to take the tension of the spring in order to fit the bottom plate. I've not included the torque settings within this video (unlike the rear suspension video) as there's so many of them it would of slowed the video down. Cheers matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Easy job, I would have formed some sheet and welded into the same areas that failed. Basically bolstered the weak points, if you go that far it's got to be worth doing.
Yes, an easy job welding wise bud, a gusset plate would of sufficed but having infilled the cracks with weld and welded over the top of that weld will be stronger then the parent metal that I've welded too. Naturally, when van is sat on the ground, the steering rack gaiter is very close to rubbing the subframe so I didn't want to build out potentially causing more issues, hence no gusset plate, anywhere else I would of fitted one. Cheers matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Torque settings are easy to find online and I was surprised you included them in the other video to be honest.
I was thinking more about you checking all the nuts and bolts for tightness before you go on your first proper drive.
@@one-man-and-his-Rottie yes, I totally agree bud 👌👍. 30 years of being an 'Field Service engineer' for two of the biggest material handling manufacturers in the world, 'JCB & Jungheinrich' you can be rest assured that I've checked and torqued all necessary nuts and bolts matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
Great video.....At approx 11min 30 you are refitting the top arm....My son is currently trying to change his as it has snapped...However he is really struggling getting the top left hand side bolt out as it is fouling on a bracket,yet you seem to put your bolt back in no problem....Any advice/tips anyone please ????
Is his a later model like the mk4 ? Where is it hitting the cab to chassis mount? If so, I know someone who had this problem before, I believe he had to actually unbolt that mount from the chassis to enable to remove and fit that top arm bolt, unfortunately, bud. 👌👍.
Great vid mark one thing tho your wishbone mounting bolts should be tightened with weight of van on them so rubbers are not stressed
Thank you Rod 😉👌👍.
@@Iveavan if you think about it it’s right tho if you tighten when suspension is at rest there’s no stress but doing it your way it’s constantly twisting the bush it’s got to make it fail earlier
But it has an floating metal sleeve insterted within a nylon bush which is inserted into the rubber bush. The metal sleeve prevents any matter of conflict with the rubber bush itself upon mine. My arms have free floating bushes matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
@@Iveavan ahh right didn’t realise
No that's fine matey I think they must be a few types of arms fitted to these bud 👍👍👍...
Just my quickish 2c on these as I work on them a lot - when you go look for replacement parts, there's a huge "variation" in costs.. Iveco themself will usually pull your pants down for every component. The bill for parts WILL be eye-watering if you take that route. As will plenty others.
I kinda knew what the "Variety" of quotes for parts would be - I wanted to give the customer a few options/the best deal. First I rang Iveco direct for a laugh - their version was telephone numbers even before I stopped listening.. Let's Not.. I then rang 2 independent suppliers - it can be a Lottery/What mood they are in.. First rang back with a quote just shy of a grand. Or about half what Iveco wanted. Second didn't ring back so I rang them again to poke them - parts dropped in the yard, everything needed, all German made gear, just shy of 400 quid, tax included. Mint - go for it.
Shop around, because parts for these vary hugely in price depending where you shop
We're also good at fixing Iveco emission issues - just saying like. I've never worked on one where we were "First" at the party - we always get them after someone else has had a go - pretty much the same as for the rust.. They come in with the passenger footwell littered with "bitsa" stuff... "Erm... can ye refit those bits while you're there.....?" No bother, Pal. 🙂
Yes, you definitely do need to shop around for parts 👌👍 the one's that I've shared probably will not be the cheapest, more for ease for door step delivery for myself....
Do you want to share your contact details? It may help those over in Ireland who are looking for their van to be repaired bud 😉👌👍👍👍. (share it within the pinned comment as an reply matey 👌👍)....
I have front suspension on torsion bars on my 50C14. Which one do you think is better, between yours and mine, and why? Mine has never been serviced before. I am the first one that replaced a pair of ball joints but when warm weather returns, i will have to do a similar restoration job like you did, so i am wondering whether a suspension conversion is justified or not. Thanks in advance!
I think the true test would be upon a drive and compare test, I've never driven the C class chassis one, but both seem to be the suspension choice of yesteryear compared to modern suspension equivalents and agricultural mind you. If I was to retrofit a suspension, I'd probably opt for a SWB Iveco and make it into a 4x4 variant using some sort of heavy duty 4x4 donor vehicle 😉👌👍...
making it look far too easy :) i need to do this on my van as the subframe looks rather crusty...! can i ask where you got the cribbing blocks from?
Cheers bud 👌👍. I've had these blocks for years from verious jobs, there's a link for the newer plastic/rubber blocks within the description of this video bud 😉👍👍👍.
Which is better? LANOGUARD or WAXOIL ?
I've never tried Lanoguard, bud. I've always used Waxoyl over the past 30 years, so I can't honestly compare the two ( all I know is Lanoguard is much more expensive ) 👌👍.
but how smoother was the ride after?
It's going in for it's MOT in a couple of weeks bud so I will find out what's it is like out on the road. However, just going up and down on the driveway there's definitely a noticeable difference of it being more of an 'comfortable ride'. But! The real test will be on the 'world's worst roads' which are all in 'Hull' 😉👌👍👍👍.
You should not tighten those upper and lower controlarms without any load on them, as the bushing will twist afterworks.
That's what the metal sleeve inserts do to prevent from doing that bud, or how else's would the suspension do it's job? 👌👍👍👍.
@@Iveavan I believe that the metal sleeve is vulcanized onto the rubber, and does not move, therefore when you put load on the arms the rubber will twist, and stay twisted on driving. My thoughts is that the rubber will stay in a stressed position, when not thightent under load.
@@jimmynystrup3243 no, mine is free floating and inserts within a nylon Bush, you must have a different set up from myself I reckon matey 🤔😉👌👍.
Dead easy to reassemble some of the bits upside down then nothing lines up, but it's only a little out so you don't realise you messed it up and spend two days forcing it until giving up and getting in someone else .... I was that someone else, but I was only laughing on the inside.... Honest
Haha😅, even the simplest things can become complicated some times matey 😉👌👍👍👍.
ironman
Haha😂 cheers matey 😉👌👍👍👍.