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3D Scanning is Hard!
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2022
- I got a 3D scanner for testing with the goal of reverse engineering the cross slide on my lathe. I want to make a stepper-motor mount and thought this would make things easier. I was very wrong. There is a much higher learning curve for 3D scanners than I realized, especially for the geometric objects I'm wanting to scan. This video should give you a realistic expectation of what is involved in learning to use a 3D scanner, along with some of the limitations.
I asked the maker to send me a scanner with the only promise from me that I would post a video. I have received no compensation other than a free scanner.
Thank you so much. At last a reviewer who doesn't simply scan the sample bust and say it's wonderful. You are having all the same failures and frustrations I am, so congratulations for sticking at it. I've learned so much from you. Once you acquire the skills to get repeatable good scans, please do another video to pass that information on.
I own a Revopoint POP2 scanner, and I use it as a door-stop.
I scanned a lot with my mini recently too. What I learned it you need target parts. I printed little pyramids with cuts in it and place them around my scanning object. That worked great and I didn’t lost tracking anymore.
For larger/higher parts I think I will print targets that are as high as the part I want to scan. Placing some cutouts in it so that the scanner can track the target parts.
In the little pyramids I placed a cutout for magnets. This way they can placed, for example, on the lathe you showed. It should track better in feature mode than marker mode for this type of scans.
I may release the targets on printable. But I want to test out the higher ones first and release it as a package.
May I ask for stl please
Thanks for a great video. Like Andy says, a video that tries to scan real things and not just the sample bust. You've just improved the slope of my learning curve immensely! Thanks!
Finally an honest video about 3d scanning. I just sent back the Mole out of frustration and am now debating between the Mini and the Einstar. I wish I had found your video sooner! Thank you!
The FIRST thing you need to do is clean the part. Get rid of all the oil and debris. Then the application of your contrast media will work better because it is porous and sucks up any oil grease or solvent that is left on the part.
God, thank you so much for the work you've done. I learned a lot of new and useful information. Your video was so intense. This is the best review of this scanner of all that I have seen. Thank you again!!!
I got the mini 3 days ago. All scans were a failure. The learning curve is higher than expected.. thanks for your video. This helped me decide that this technology is not ready yet , unless if a 16 k scanner.
I have the Einscan Pro HD Scanner which does a great job scanning they are more expensive than the lower end scanners but are not as much as some of the high top end scanners that are available. I use non scented dry shampoo for coating parts that are shiny it works great. It's alot of work to reverse engineer the scan data I also use geomagic design X which makes the process much easier but can be a steep learning curve as well as the cost is very expensive.
I feel your pain. I have a Creality CR Lizard scanner and I have the scanner that you have on the way from Kickstarter. I have experienced the same difficulties so far. Just a note - I have found it very easy to accomplish what you’re trying to do by taking a picture and scaling it as a canvas in fusion 360 and modeling what I need off of that. Good luck I look forward to the video that comes where you figure it all out. I’m definitely going to watch it, ha ha
I do the same. Really looking up all these reviews to make my decisions to buy it or not
There's definitely a learning curve with scanning. Like anything else the better the hardware and software, the better the results. I have an older R4x scanner that has movable and replaceable cameras and can get excellent results on various sized objects, but I avoid items that have hard edges and are easier to manually measure. Recently I scanned a small hand sculpted figurine that a customer wanted an injection mold to mass produce. That was a long job to convert the mesh to a solid body in order to get the resolution for a detailed tool path but couldn't have done it without the scanner. Keep practicing, it's an exciting time in technology!
I have a far better appreciation now for how much work is involved, both in the scanning and converting the results into something clean and smooth enough to use for injection molding. In all the other videos I've seen of these scanners, they 3D print from the scan using an FDM printer that has a lower resolution than the scanner. But as you pointed out, that's not good enough for injection molding.
I love your channel. Thank you for your effort and showing us your progress with all the bumps along the way.
I have a POP3 and I've learned very quickly that for those geometric parts you are best to measure them up and model them in CAD rather than scan them. I would think the best use for these scanners may be for "life subjects" such as animal, plant and mineral objects - and ideally engine / machine assemblies that are too complex to model up in CAD. I haven't quite given up yet but trying to understand how the scanning software works and consequently how to help it to track the target feels like the difficult bit. Although it's clearly doing some clever stuff, the continual loss of tracking is very frustrating!
I find that learning some CAD skills is better than scanning for functional things, especially if they don't have complex geometry. Scanning is great for capturing objects from nature.
Thanks for your effort and for the great video! I'm also interested in scanning real life stuff (I mean, for an engineer :D ), not figurines and I was wondering how these scanners cope with more geometric shapes.
Thank you for your honest video which tells me there's a lot to learn before 3D scanning becomes natural to oneself 😂
I purchased the pop2 and I want to say I do not possess the patience you displayed throughout this process. Thank you for your efforts! After paying full price for this and not having a manual to help is very frustrating. I have come to RUclips to scour for videos to help lessen the learning curve. After many many years in the automotive product design industry, this scanner is not that impressive to me. I’m almost ready to sell this thing and go back to using manual tools and cardboard for curvature to gather dimensions. It’s also a significant learning process to manipulate the scanned data in Fusion 360, which I am also learning at the same time. Oh and don’t bother with the wireless scanning feature for the iPhone.
A Great video 👍John this video will inform many about the challenges of 3d scanning and give myself a chance to make it work.
Great video - can't wait to see more scanning.
I've got 3d systems sense scaner and I have more or less same problems. I saw professional scaners in work and results are amazing. But even with simple cheap devices you can earn decent results with some experiense and easy hacks) Good luck!)
With my Revopoint mini i take multiple scans and blend them with CloudCompare. Very powerful tool with lots of good tutorials. I've been able to reverse engineer some very detailed parts this way. I also always use the spray.
FYI with Marker Mode you don't have to keep it in Excellent. It can be further away.
The biggest problem is revopoint's stuff doesnt operate anywhere near what they claim it does. Its honestly kinda gross how much they stretch the truth, and its making people think that 3d scanning doesnt work or is just not there yet. It is, revo isnt, nor is creality or the seal/mole. Unfortunately the COST for a scanner that performs the way it claims is prohibitive... Thats the big issue.
Honestly, if they built in a very simple algorithm to detect and build flat poly areas into the mesh cloud theyd get much better results. The noise is because of the scanner. The first revopoint scanner ive had that is anywhere NEAR accurate to scan anything for production is the mini 2, and that still gets NO detail, its only good for surface geometry and size. They could also build in a "single color" mode that does photogrammetry alongside the structured light scanning, especially using their wifi enabled turntable, because theyd be able to use the extra color cam to detect shadows and detail fully instead of very poorly and only in color scan mode.
I also feel your pain. It's not you, it's the scanner and software. (I have used Einscan SE with greater success). I just got mine, and was looking forward to handheld mode, but disappointed by the software losing track, extending surfaces like crazy, and not aligning scans very well. I have an Einscan SE, which works great, but cannot be used handheld. I was hoping this would fill in that gap, but it seems that I'm better off setting up the Einscan on a tripod and shooting from different angles to capture features I'm looking for. The Mini also had much more difficulty seeing objects with flat faces, unless that face is almost perpendicular to the scanner. And has trouble seeing other colors besides black, such that everything needs to be sprayed. Most objects I've scanned with Einscan also require spraying, but that is because they have black areas. This one couldn't see a green vs grey surface without spray. I use scans of objects as reference in CAD for designing parts. I think the Mini scanner is best for turntable sized objects, which the Einscan already fills my need.
The jump is to keep the scan center in the software. Old software did not do this.
Also you need more markers. The idea is you want 6 per scanning windows. I only see about 3 or 4.
Thanks. It would be nice if they'd mentioned this information to me when I asked on their forum. I'll have to try that.
I'm grateful that you've tried this out before me. It does look difficult and I'm guessing you'd need to invest a lot of time to get reliable results.
For geometric parts, true. For organic parts with a lot of unique details, like figurines, it does a far better job. For example, it scanned the bust perfectly the first time. It's just that I don't want to scan organic parts. I believe the art deco parts that you do are mostly in the geometric category. They have too much symmetry, such as rotational symmetry, for the software to keep a lock.
You should simply use the white powder scanning spray, metallic parts are difficult to scan without it.
First time here; I had no idea John Malkovich was into CNC.
Biggest problem you're creating for yourself when using spray is that you're spraying over the markers. The markers have a black surround for high contrast. When your spray over the marker you're cutting the contrast drastically. It may look like the software is the markers in the view frame but when you're scanning it's a different story. This goes true for any scanner using markers no matter how much you pay for it. Second issue you may be having is the Mini is really meant for small items. They advertise it to scan larger objects but it is much harder to deal with. Unfortunately they wanted you to review the mini since they're pushing it now but the Pop 2 would have been the better choice for the cross slide scan.
I did this after seeing videos of others also spraying over the marker dots. Plus, my understanding (I didn't try it) is that the dots don't stick well to the sprayed finish. The software does seem to pick up the markers. As someone else pointed out, I probably needed more markers (he suggested at least 6 visible all the time). And you're right. I told Revopoint what I planned to do and asked for a POP 2, but they sent me a Mini.
@@JohnSL Confirmed, the marker dots do not stick to a sprayed surface. You need to apply them first.
@@JohnSL I noticed what Aaron is mentioning when I got overspray on my turntable as you did previously. It stopped tracking the markers for the most part and my whole scan would go flying off screen. I also had an item I applied the markers on and then sprayed after seeing a RUclips video as you mentioned and noticed that it doesn't seem to pick them up that well and loses track of them easily. I was able to get mine to stick to the AESUB spray after the fact but applying them was pretty finicky to avoid smearing the spray. I put them on the tip of my thumb then used a pen to push them on lightly and they seemed to stick. Unfortunately I didn't try to scan in Marker mode with them and the spray wore off before I found out about it but it's on my list to retry. It is definitely a frustrating process to learn through but I've already gotten some great usable scans so I'm hoping to learn through it
@@JohnSL once you place the dots, spray over them, then using q-tip wipe the contrast spray off the dots. or you can buy magnetic dots if Appling to metal. also as stated, the white contrast spray will soak up anything that is liquid or has moisture. I used to use a contrast spray when I was x-raying in the oil fields for dye pen testing, it wont dry properly if it absorbs anything. good luck with scanning
Geometric Shapes = Verniers. 3D Scanning, although very VERY useful in many ways, is like any tool. You need to use the correct tool for the job. And a set of verniers would have been better for this object. Probably take 30-60 minutes to fully measure and model that block of steel with a bunch of features, without being "on the clock hurrying".
Nice video. At least gave me a comparison of what a commercially available less expensive scanner will do. My DIY SLS scanner is miles ahead in quality but its not "real time" of course. If you're interested in seeing some examples to compare. Let me know i'll send some screenshots and/or do a sample scan of a subject item and send the file for you to look at.
That's the conclusion I came to. Conventional measuring tools along with some 3D printed test parts would absolutely be faster than using a 3D scanner. Most likely even if I had enough experience with 3D scanning. I wanted to make sure others were aware of the challenges with 3D scanning, as I certainly wasn't. I'm sure I'll find other uses for it, but now I know the sweet spot for what to scan.
this is great! thank you.
I put the marker dots on after spraying, which might help
Dry shampoo works as well as the foot powder. It may have finer particles.
I'm starting to regret going for the super early bird kickstarter on this.
But I guess if it doesn't do what I need (mostly scanning bits of car, or obsolete toys/ gadgets) I can get my money back sticking it on Feebay.
Hopefully, though, it'll be happier about car trim pieces than it is with lathes and model railways!
For bits of cars, I think the Pop 2 would be a better choice. The main advantage of the mini is when scanning small figurines, you can much better quality. The Mini has a smaller field of view, plus the blue light, instead of infrared, provides better details.
@@JohnSL Mostly it's stuff no larger than 15x15cm, where accuracy is very important, so I'd figured a POP 2 might not be quite enough based on some reviews. But yeah, doubts offer the Mini now. I should get round to unboxing it now it's arrived, and finding out
Try using some scanner spray. Then add the keymarks and you will have a very clean and easy scan even with this scanner.
THE MINI IS NOT THE ONE NEEDED FOR THIS SCAN POP MINI IS USEED FOR 50 X 50 MM RINGS A SUCH.POP2 WOULD HAVE DONE A BETTER JOB. JUST A THOUGHT
I wonder if you can figure out a way to get the powder to be attracted to the lathe with an electrostatic charge like they do while powder coating.
I understand that the Aesub spray (which sounds like what you ordered) is very good quality... it's a shame there isn't a better US distribution channel for it.
I purchased from visionminer.com and had it in less than a week. Because this is an aerosol, it has to ship via ground. Still, it's not cheap. I paid $40 plus shipping, so the total was about $51.
There are a handful of reliable US distributors
Creaform has great products for 3d scanning, quite expensive, but really solid products
Many thanks for your chronological documentation .I feel frustrated too that you did not get the intended result despite you spend so much time in research and adaptation. By the way- is this an ELS by Rocetronics in the back of your lathe ?
Yes, that's an ELS 4 Basic. I have previous videos on getting that installed on this machine. I've only done the Z axis and was hoping I could use the scanner to create a 3D model I would use to help the X axis mount.
is it usb 2.0 or 3.x scanner because 3.x would be backward compatybile but it might be laging with that interface and your scan looked a bit slugish
I bought the Shining 3D Einstar for bigger parts now. The mini is really good for mini parts but not for something bigger than a PlayStation controller 😂
Even a PS controller is a little to big already.
Hi John, did the Revo studio software come with the scanner? Or has to be downloaded?
I had to download it.
There is common cause for losing tracking: lack of GPU. Even when your notebook has strong GPU usually by default the integrated Intel is used first ant this requires to manually setup better GPU for Revoscan in Windows.
Thanks, that makes sense. My laptop isn't that recent, and wasn't a gaming laptop, so it likely doesn't have the best GPU.
To this day, that is still not true. I run my POP2 (well, I used to, but I've shelved it) on a 5Ghz CPU with an RTX-3080 GPU. Loses tracking all the time. I basically have to keep the scanner and part absolutely still and capture very small sections of the part at a time, then use Studio to stitch them all together, which basically never works out well...bad alignment of pieces.
@@imacmill try forcing to use GPU nfor this app
Would setting up the scanner on tripod and then transverse the carnage past the scanner keep alignment?
I tried that and I'm not sure yet if it makes a difference. I think a slider might work better because the software wants to capture frames continuously. Using a tripod means you still have to move it from side to side, and that won't be as smooth.
Wow that was frustrating to watch.. the parts would have taken about 10 minutes with a phone camera, photogrammetry doesn't like reflections but that part shouldn't be a challenge. Try kiri engine or so, saves on computing power needs,. Or meshroom if you have an Nvidia gpu, relies on the cuda cores alot
I think the spray might be developer for dye penetrant inspection.
Dye inspection spray doesn't sublimate--it has to be cleaned off. I really liked this scanner spray because it doesn't require cleanup. After a few hours, it's gone (well, you can smell it in the air for a little while, but it won't be on the machine anymore).
Did you ever crack the code on how to use this without spending hours trying to fix a flawed scan? I have tried to work with revopoint this past week. They haven’t been much help. I’ve been going down the same path you have and realize it is headed nowhere. I have contacted the company to return the scanner and have yet to get a response. Good luck to all.
I haven't. I kept asking questions and the answers I got were along the lines of "you're doing it wrong" or "you need more practice." Neither of those answers is very helpful. Also, it seems like their scanner is really optimized for organic shapes, rather than geometric shapes. I asked them a number of times if I was just expecting too much and trying to do something for which their scanner wasn't a good match. In reply, I got the answers above. I still don't know the answer and gave up, as it's easier for me to measure the objects and create CAD models from measurements.
Revo's customer support is bad. When I first received my POP2, I immediately discovered that the battery compartment cover plate on the included turntable would not close when batteries were installed. The batteries stood out proud of the bottom of the turntable. They actually made me go through the process of filming me putting in the batteries and trying to snap the plate over top of them, instead of just checking it themselves with one of their own turntables. Even after seeing the video, they gave me no further assistance, saying they didn't know what was going on. Fortunately, I as able to design and 3D print my own cover, which solved the problem.
If you add this x-axis, you should also consider a better cnc like the Acorn CNC12 Lathe hardware/software.
I thought about that, but wasn't sure it would work well without upgrading to ball screws. One nice thing about the controller I'm using is that it's specifically designed to work with machines that have a lot of backlash.
Acorn has backlash compensation.
I find this video interesting and useful. failure is part of learning. Pop Up The Volume's opinion on your work would be particularly interesting. She is very qualified and helpful.
19:45 From Her ... ( Pop Up The Volume ) ♀ 🙂
подскажите пожалуйста название модели токарного станка на заднем плане
The lathe is an Emco Maximat 7. I have other videos about that lathe.
If you took all of the "go ahead" 's out, this would have been a two minute video.
Did I use that phrase a lot? I'll have to go back and listen to the video again so I know what not to do.
Foot powder spray
It's HARD... r u thinking about testing multiple 3D scanning methods? 19:15 ... Forget it. If other manufacturers send stuff for testing, Okay. But u accessing the forum, .. i hope Revopoint see and change how they approach the UX of the software interface.
Agreed, there are lots of things about their software that could use work. My main interest was in learning whether 3D scanners would help with the type of projects I was interested in. I thought about buying the Pop 2 when it was on Kickstarter, but wasn't sure it would work for the projects I had in mind, so I asked them for an eval unit instead of spending money on something that may not match my needs. Since my needs are usually geometric objects, I'll just stick with conventional measuring tools and 3D modeling.
"3D Scanning is Hard!" - only with that crappy sh..., sorry, "scanner" :))