GREAT,INFORMATIVE AND THOROUGH VIDEO. IF I HAD BUT ONE CRITIQUE, IT WOULD BE A FAILURE TO SUGGEST REPLACEMENT HARDWARE SIZE. THE LENGTH OF THE BOLTS NEEDED TO REPLACE BORED OUT RIVETS... I HAVE VISIONS OF SPARKS AND CUT OFF WHEELS,LOL!!
I could watch that guy for hours! He's the best presenter you have. Calm, knowledgable, easy to watch and listen to. Might do without the background music, or something a bit more contemporary, but this guy is a total winner! Thanks!
as the comment from victor points out----you -DO NOT need to drill out the rivets holding the glass. this is just an unnecessary step that could led to disaster. the nylon track slider will easily slide out of the track when the rivets holding the assembly have been removed. it will also slide back in when you install the new regulator b4 it is bolted up. a couple of other points; i used 1/4x 3/8 in. long bolts installed from the back side with nut an lock-washer installed on the outside. be sure to put the top-left bolt in b4 you install the unit, as it is almost. impossible to access after the regulator has been installed. i secured this bolt with a small rubber washer on the unit to keep it in place until i poked it through the door panel. this bolt also provided a nice pivot point to allow installation of the other bolts. you will need to have the unit plugged-in so you can move it as necessary. good-luck, you can do it!
@@TheLarigrader Tape as shown in the video. You only need to drill out the rivets that hold the regulator in place. The regulator arm will slide out of the track.
Having just replaced one, let me give you what the video doesnt show. It's pretty simple removing the door handle. Take your time disconnecting the switches as not to break the connectors. The door panel is only two screws. Take off the door panel by lefting up on it and it will come off. The plastic cover just peels off. You'll see the window motor connector at the bottom of the door. Disconnect it and put a meter to the wiring to ensure you are getting power to the motor ( most times can be just the switch). You'll see four aluminum button head rivets. If you plan on replacing the rivets, you need to be careful drilling them out so you dont elongate the holes. Either way, use a 1/4" bit and drill into the rivet first, then follow up with a 3/8" bit to take out the rivet. To get out the motor, may help removing the speaker so you can reach in behind to position it in and out. Once you have the rivets out, it really helps having someone hold the window and move it up and down while you disengage the motor off the window track. Conversely, you'll need that helper getting it back in. Here's a trick. I replaced my motor using 1/4"X 1/2"length bolts, washer, and nut (not lock nut you'll see why). When you get the new motor, you superglue three of the bolts in from the backside of the motor. This helps hold them in place when you line up the new motor in the holes. The fourth you'll get last. Position in the new motor , dont put it in the holes yet, get the motor slider in the track with your helper moving the window up and down. Once you get the slider in the track. then line the motor in the holes. Having superglued the bolts makes it easy to put a washer and bolt on. Snug down those three bolts (if you use a lock nut the bolt will probably spin and you can't get a wrench on the backside of it). Hook up your switch and you can run the window up or down to get that last bolt in. Install the bolt from the inside, this prevents from hanging up when runnning the motor. Trust me, was a lot harder getting out the old one then putting in the new one. You will save about $250 doing it yourself.
I looked for a video for a Mazda B4000 (Ford Ranger derivative) and kept getting this video. So I will comment here. After removing the door panel and dust cover I noticed that I could see 2 of the 3 motor screws through factory cut-outs in the door. There was no cut-out for the 3rd screw which I thought was odd, so I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in my door and wa-la... 5 minutes later I had the old motor out and never had to drill out rivets or any of the other time consuming work. Popped the new motor in and I was done. It took longer to remove the door panel and re-install than replacement of the motor. Thank you very much.
+Rick Buckner Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/power-window-motor/i/1awpm00038?RUclips&CTA+Comment&H84qvgTOsw
while i appreciate this how-to video; your answer does not address Rick's observation about a short-cut to replacing the window motor. your reply is sorely lacking.
i love al your videos and the knowledge of your team. i will say in this case it’s incredibly easier and less time consuming to just drill a hole to access the 3rd nut on the motor and remove it. no need to remove the regulator or drill out the rivets, took me about 15 minutes. thanks 1a for helping me keep my ranger alive without breaking the bank.
+Taymoor Jarrahi Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This was great for my 03 mazda B3000, I ordered my replacement motor off amazon, from 1A auto parts as well. However, I did not have to tap out the rivets on the window. The new assembly slid into the original track/ vertical bar no problem. Great video and great to be driving with the driver side window down now!
this is a great video.... thank you for putting it together. Just what I needed on my 94 ranger.... and I purchased the replacement regulator from 1a auto after I viewed it a few times and removed the old regulator.
I watched other videos here on YT and noticed that the rivets holding the glass don't need to get removed, I am watching the wrong video or is this just a different way of doing this?
I'm gonna be attempting this job later, but I'm not sure, since my window regulator/motor is almost completely shot and doesn't move up or down. Hope I don't have to cut any holes in the door panel to access the rivets.
+Islandchi Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I didn't drill rivets out off glass. Put new regulator arm in the channel. Moved glass up and down with bungi cords to line up top hole of regulator. Put bolt lockwasher and nut in. Not tight. Lined up bottom hole moving window up and down. Did same Then used switch to electrically move window up and down to get 3rd hole lined up on top.Cut up and scratched and wore out so left with 3 bolts in. Fourth bolt on bottom left is close, so will do another time probably with hemostats or long needle nose.
Dante Sparda it’s the same truck with just different badges. Ford and Mazda basically had the same vehicles then. So this video will work on a Mazda B series and Ford Ranger
My driver window wont go all the way up. It stays almost half an inch open every time. And i removed the panel to see maybe the arm wasnt going all the way up but it seems like it is. Any ideas on how to fix or what it could be?
+Emmanuel Maldonado Thanks for watching! There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Once you know the cause, we'll be happy to see if we carry the parts for your repair!
This shows you lowering the window to get to the window rivets. Looks like your window is working?? Mine is stuck in the UP position and can't see them. I have to take another look but maybe if I drill out the Regulator rivets the window will drop low enough.
+Matt Trotta Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/power-window-motor/i/1awpm00038?RUclips&CTA+Comment&H84qvgTOsw
@@1AAuto once again your reply does not address the comment. this just makes it look like you are just acting as a front-man for 1A without any real regard for your viewers.
How do you program the motor? With my luck I'll replace the regulator and then the automatic down function will chew off the teeth ruining the new part after I'm done lol. I'll just mark it before I separate them and hope the new regulator is the same as the damaged one and hope for the best. Then again I dont know for sure the teeth on the regulator are rounded off or the teeth on the motor. Hopefully it's the regulator cuz that's what I'm buying. If its the motor teeth I guess I'll have to tack and grind it to make it work. Maybe I should just fix the regulator huh? Lolol
+Google Rapes Thank you for checking us out. You shouldn't have to program the motor, but in most cases it is easier to replace the regulator and motor assembly to ensure that it is a one piece replacement. 1aauto.com
I don't believe you have to remove the verticle rail. The regulator arm can slide out of that track. No need to drill out rivets holding glass in. But good clear informative video.
DAM I watched the entire video wanting to know one type of information -- What hardware I need to buy to install my new motors and the guy refused to tell us what length of bolts to buy in both places securing the regulator to inner-door and securing the window to the regulator. He tells every little detail except for the one single detail I wanted to know so I could have the hardware ready to go. How long should bolts be 1 inch 2 inches ??? DAM
sir, you sort of need to do some thinking on your own. This video is very clear on its purpose... but as noted, there are other ways to do the removal of the regulator.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
GREAT,INFORMATIVE AND THOROUGH VIDEO.
IF I HAD BUT ONE CRITIQUE, IT WOULD BE A FAILURE TO SUGGEST REPLACEMENT HARDWARE SIZE. THE LENGTH OF THE BOLTS NEEDED TO REPLACE BORED OUT RIVETS...
I HAVE VISIONS OF SPARKS AND CUT OFF WHEELS,LOL!!
I could watch that guy for hours! He's the best presenter you have. Calm, knowledgable, easy to watch and listen to. Might do without the background music, or something a bit more contemporary, but this guy is a total winner! Thanks!
+Patrick PhippsPA Thanks for watching. We are happy to hear that you enjoy watching our auto repair videos. 1aauto.com
as the comment from victor points out----you -DO NOT need to drill out the rivets holding the glass. this is just an unnecessary step that could led to disaster. the nylon track slider will easily slide out of the track when the rivets holding the assembly have been removed. it will also slide back in when you install the new regulator b4 it is bolted up. a couple of other points; i used 1/4x 3/8 in. long bolts installed from the back side with nut an lock-washer installed on the outside. be sure to put the top-left bolt in b4 you install the unit, as it is almost. impossible to access after the regulator has been installed. i secured this bolt with a small rubber washer on the unit to keep it in place until i poked it through the door panel. this bolt also provided a nice pivot point to allow installation of the other bolts. you will need to have the unit plugged-in so you can move it as necessary. good-luck, you can do it!
How do you keep the window in place while taking the assembly off when the window is still attached?
How do you keep the window in place while taking it off the track, will the window fall to the bottom once it is off the track?
Agree, I've never removed the tracks unless damaged and replaced the rivets with the ss 1/4 by 3/8
@@TheLarigrader Tape as shown in the video. You only need to drill out the rivets that hold the regulator in place. The regulator arm will slide out of the track.
Having just replaced one, let me give you what the video doesnt show. It's pretty simple removing the door handle. Take your time disconnecting the switches as not to break the connectors. The door panel is only two screws. Take off the door panel by lefting up on it and it will come off. The plastic cover just peels off. You'll see the window motor connector at the bottom of the door. Disconnect it and put a meter to the wiring to ensure you are getting power to the motor ( most times can be just the switch). You'll see four aluminum button head rivets. If you plan on replacing the rivets, you need to be careful drilling them out so you dont elongate the holes. Either way, use a 1/4" bit and drill into the rivet first, then follow up with a 3/8" bit to take out the rivet. To get out the motor, may help removing the speaker so you can reach in behind to position it in and out. Once you have the rivets out, it really helps having someone hold the window and move it up and down while you disengage the motor off the window track. Conversely, you'll need that helper getting it back in. Here's a trick. I replaced my motor using 1/4"X 1/2"length bolts, washer, and nut (not lock nut you'll see why). When you get the new motor, you superglue three of the bolts in from the backside of the motor. This helps hold them in place when you line up the new motor in the holes. The fourth you'll get last. Position in the new motor , dont put it in the holes yet, get the motor slider in the track with your helper moving the window up and down. Once you get the slider in the track. then line the motor in the holes. Having superglued the bolts makes it easy to put a washer and bolt on. Snug down those three bolts (if you use a lock nut the bolt will probably spin and you can't get a wrench on the backside of it). Hook up your switch and you can run the window up or down to get that last bolt in. Install the bolt from the inside, this prevents from hanging up when runnning the motor. Trust me, was a lot harder getting out the old one then putting in the new one. You will save about $250 doing it yourself.
I looked for a video for a Mazda B4000 (Ford Ranger derivative) and kept getting this video. So I will comment here. After removing the door panel and dust cover I noticed that I could see 2 of the 3 motor screws through factory cut-outs in the door. There was no cut-out for the 3rd screw which I thought was odd, so I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in my door and wa-la... 5 minutes later I had the old motor out and never had to drill out rivets or any of the other time consuming work. Popped the new motor in and I was done. It took longer to remove the door panel and re-install than replacement of the motor. Thank you very much.
+Rick Buckner Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/power-window-motor/i/1awpm00038?RUclips&CTA+Comment&H84qvgTOsw
I did this as well. In and out.
1A Auto Parts i disliked your comment. f.y.i.
By the way, i sell those gloves online at www.wtfman.kom. haha
Thanks for the vid btw.
while i appreciate this how-to video; your answer does not address Rick's observation about a short-cut to replacing the window motor. your reply is sorely lacking.
That's the ticket, thanks for the excellent advice, much easier
1A Auto keeps my old Ranger going strong. Thank you for your informative videos and the great suggestions in the comments from your viewers as well.
i love al your videos and the knowledge of your team. i will say in this case it’s incredibly easier and less time consuming to just drill a hole to access the 3rd nut on the motor and remove it. no need to remove the regulator or drill out the rivets, took me about 15 minutes. thanks 1a for helping me keep my ranger alive without breaking the bank.
+Taymoor Jarrahi Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This was great for my 03 mazda B3000, I ordered my replacement motor off amazon, from 1A auto parts as well. However, I did not have to tap out the rivets on the window. The new assembly slid into the original track/ vertical bar no problem. Great video and great to be driving with the driver side window down now!
You can do this without drilling out the rivets but youd need to drill a hole to remove a screw that holds in the motor
this is a great video.... thank you for putting it together. Just what I needed on my 94 ranger.... and I purchased the replacement regulator from 1a auto after I viewed it a few times and removed the old regulator.
The spring on my regulator fell off how many revolutions do you have to put it on and where do you run it all to the end or to the top
I watched other videos here on YT and noticed that the rivets holding the glass don't need to get removed, I am watching the wrong video or is this just a different way of doing this?
+Bandido We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
@@1AAuto Agreed, its always good to have different options. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
What do you do if the window won't go down? That's the reason I need to replace the motor.
I'm gonna be attempting this job later, but I'm not sure, since my window regulator/motor is almost completely shot and doesn't move up or down. Hope I don't have to cut any holes in the door panel to access the rivets.
1A Auto does gods work
+Kristin Malone Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Could I do this to convert my crank windows to power windows?
Thank you for this video. Excellent presentation!
+Islandchi Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I didn't drill rivets out off glass. Put new regulator arm in the channel. Moved glass up and down with bungi cords to line up top hole of regulator. Put bolt lockwasher and nut in. Not tight. Lined up bottom hole moving window up and down. Did same Then used switch to electrically move window up and down to get 3rd hole lined up on top.Cut up and scratched and wore out so left with 3 bolts in. Fourth bolt on bottom left is close, so will do another time probably with hemostats or long needle nose.
Thabks in advance, im looked for a Mazda b2500 year 2005 video, but youtube always send me this, is this the same parts as the one mentioned before?
Dante Sparda it’s the same truck with just different badges. Ford and Mazda basically had the same vehicles then. So this video will work on a Mazda B series and Ford Ranger
Hi, find me a new regulator for a 1997 Aerostar, not the motor, but the pantograph. Thanks
Now does that really help anyone that their window doesn't operate and is broken
Thanks and great video! What is the purpose of the door liner?
It's an environmental moisture, dust and sound deadener barrier.
My driver window wont go all the way up. It stays almost half an inch open every time. And i removed the panel to see maybe the arm wasnt going all the way up but it seems like it is. Any ideas on how to fix or what it could be?
+Emmanuel Maldonado Thanks for watching! There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Once you know the cause, we'll be happy to see if we carry the parts for your repair!
How do you get motor out if the window is down
Mine is stuck down as well and need help how to remove the motor with window down or how to move the window up if the motor does not work?
What size bolt
Screw sizes?
Good video, but would’ve been nice to add what size drill bits you used to drill rivets out, and what size bolts you used to replace them.
+Matthew Gardner Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Would you know what type of Hardware to use
+IBBIE2009 You should be able to re-use the existing hardware.
This shows you lowering the window to get to the window rivets. Looks like your window is working?? Mine is stuck in the UP position and can't see them. I have to take another look but maybe if I drill out the Regulator rivets the window will drop low enough.
+Matt Trotta Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/power-window-motor/i/1awpm00038?RUclips&CTA+Comment&H84qvgTOsw
@@1AAuto once again your reply does not address the comment. this just makes it look like you are just acting as a front-man for 1A without any real regard for your viewers.
If the window is stuck in the up position, you can cut the cable which will allow the window to move up and down freely. +Matt Trotta
It's not a cable drive!
How do you program the motor? With my luck I'll replace the regulator and then the automatic down function will chew off the teeth ruining the new part after I'm done lol. I'll just mark it before I separate them and hope the new regulator is the same as the damaged one and hope for the best. Then again I dont know for sure the teeth on the regulator are rounded off or the teeth on the motor. Hopefully it's the regulator cuz that's what I'm buying. If its the motor teeth I guess I'll have to tack and grind it to make it work. Maybe I should just fix the regulator huh? Lolol
+Google Rapes Thank you for checking us out. You shouldn't have to program the motor, but in most cases it is easier to replace the regulator and motor assembly to ensure that it is a one piece replacement. 1aauto.com
I Love what I could see and hear of the video but u Tube wasn't coming through it was starting and stopping
can someone tell me where is the power window fuse of my 2003 Ford ranger
I don't believe you have to remove the verticle rail. The regulator arm can slide out of that track. No need to drill out rivets holding glass in. But good clear informative video.
+Charlie gollick Thanks for the feedback!
Passenger about the same procedure?
+Jake Roberts Yes
DAM I watched the entire video wanting to know one type of information -- What hardware I need to buy to install my new motors and the guy refused to tell us what length of bolts to buy in both places securing the regulator to inner-door and securing the window to the regulator. He tells every little detail except for the one single detail I wanted to know so I could have the hardware ready to go. How long should bolts be 1 inch 2 inches ??? DAM
This repair takes 8mm and 11mm bolts. The full instructions can be found on the listing page on the website. Thanks for watching! +grayeagle
sir, you sort of need to do some thinking on your own. This video is very clear on its purpose... but as noted, there are other ways to do the removal of the regulator.
Soooooo, can we know what size? Because I’m currently looking for them too.
Good video, thans
+chrischenusa 63 Thank you for your feedback!
Front spindle driver side Ford ranger
Mmmmm 29-0 this one must be good