Hey Yall! Tools and parts in the description. Check out the Evinrude tuning video: ruclips.net/video/iAtht6nGlDgT/видео.htmlimestamps: 0:00 Pulling Up 0:46 Intro 1:42 Inspection 3:58 Stator Voltage Test 4:33 Kill Switch Circuit Test 6:20 Spark Test 6:54 Timer Base Test 9:20 Flywheel Removal 12:11 Timer Base Removal 12:57 New Timer Base 14:37 Timer Base Installation 14:02 Flywheel Installation 18:23 Test Start 20:17 Outro
Matt, thank you for making this video!!! This was an absolute life saver!! So helpful!! I was having no spark with the same motor. Did basically exactly what you did with testing the timer base etc. Keep making these type of videos! Thanks again!
You're welcome! I have been needing to make some more outboard videos. I always make sure to check the timing because it always changes when you change the timer base. They always seem to go bad on these old outboards.
Matt, thank you for the video. I am having the same problem with my Johnson 75 HP 1981 and I think is the Timer Base. I will check the voltages and Ohms as you describe it.
Awesome video and straight forward explanation. This outboard Johnston has been in the shop for weeks. Your video can help me get this thing running for my buddy.
So my mechanic dropped his 91 Johnston off. I'll be burning the midnight oil watching your video over and over again before I even start to pull the flywheel
So we could not find a new trigger base from CDI. I told them that we have 5 wires and also gave him the color of each wire. I must not be talking with a guy that actually works there because I'm sure that by telling him the wire color and the number of wires they should know exactly what I'm talking about. The issue is that the serial # decal is not present on this 90hp Johnson.
Hi I have a 1981 v6 175 evinrude and it starts great I link and sink it but when it warms up it has a Intermediate misfire or seems 1 or more cylinder stop firing then comes good then stop again ..all plugs are good and coil pack seem to check out … cheers robb
Hello friend, I follow your channel because I have a johnson ocean runner 200 hp and it worked perfectly but one day after I was walking I stopped accelerating, I tried but I could not, I realized that the flywheel did not turn as before I disassembled it and all the magnets were loose Before that process, change all the plugs of the spark plugs and coils and also campie the plugs of the cdi power pack that connect to the spark plugs, until then it had current but it came out again and there the problem began, I lost the current in My spark plugs and the only thing left to change is the base cdi timer, because I tried other cdi power packs but none of them work, that is to say that this is not my problem and the stator and flywheel are new
Thanks Matt awesome Vids, very helpful. BTW a quick warning for anyone trying this (learn from my stupidity. I have a 40hp 1993Evinrude. I am in the middle of timer base replacement now. When pulling the flywheel, the 3 tapped holes are thru holes not blind as I assumed. Guess what's on the other side? Yep, the timer base. I think I ruined my timer base pulling the flywheel off. Screw for my hub puller when right through in 3 places. Awesome. Oh well. B.O.A.T!!!!
@@jupitercyclops6521 your motor does not have a timer base, but a small sensor coil fastened to the magneto plate. super easy to replace. in the future consider shoulder bolts with like 1/4'' exposed.
I always check it, technically yes, but most people probably only check it after they mess with the timer base. It's not fun and can be dangerous to check.
Need to use a pin extractor tool rather than a nail to remove the pins in the timer base plug pins. When pushing pins out with a nail the locking tab on the pin is damaged. This results in the pins pushing back out when connecting the male and female plugs which you experienced in the video. They make extractor tools for a reason & this is it.
Yes, it would be MUCH better to use the pin extractor tool to do this. These pins had sleeves and then the pin slid inside them. They were fine and weren't damaged.
sir my engine don't spin I already replaced starter and the solenoid as well .. looks like is stuck I hear the very strong kick from starter but the top heel don't spin at all,, what can be the issue .. please help-
Just wanna say you are awesome man. Very informative videos. I just replaced the stator, timer base, and rectifier on my 1990 xp150. I have a no spark condition on all banks. The stator was shot. Decided that since i had flywheel off i would just replace the rest. Where are you located? Youre a great outboard mech.
I Have a 1990 Evinrude v6 150. Love your vids very helpful and down to earth and to the point. If your shop was close I'd like to see what you would charge. Set the carbs, timing, idle, high speed settings. Your vids are very helpful and easy to understand
I have a1988 Evinrude 150 xp with an issue with the flywheel rubbing the timing base top main bearing seems to be bad but not sure if I have a junk motor or if I maybe can just replace that bearing looking for some kind of insight
When I give full throttle at my box it looks like my arm that advances the spark doesn't even move much if any at all. Then I go back there and can manually move it alot and it will spring back into place . My issue was not accelerating in water , running good out of water but under load not picking up
I've had the exact problem. There is normally old dried grease under the plastic ring under the timer base. The ring can be worn too. Are your throttle cables moving good? Is the timing lever on the engine moving freely?
Hey mat can i ask you question i rebuilt carbs on a 70hp jonson and when i put back the fuel line had no clearance so i put the feed carb that feeds gas in to top one does it matter if my gas feeds in from top
Any thoughts if it could be stator or timer base for my issue? 1978 115 Evinrude that gets up on plane then loses power and bogs down. Both stator and timing base have the proper ohms when tested. Has new fuel lines, pickups, fuel pump so we dont think its the a fuel issue. Starts up perfect just cant get up on plane. Replaced both power packs as well. Any thoughts?
It's always the fuel check to see if there is a hidden fuel pickup filter somewhere. Make sure the timer base rotates freely. If it can't fully advance against the WOT stop exactly this will happen. Dont adjust it unless you know how to reset the WOT timing.
The only issue I have is the timing base is gummy and hangs up. When removing the stator and flywheel to get at it, does that mean I have to readjust timing after I reassemble? Timing spark advance is perfect right now.
I always check the WOT timing just to make sure because that is the one that can damage the engine. If you didn't touch the screw it shouldn't have moved. Though, you never know unless you check it.
@@MattsShop Forgot to mention I have an 04 Johnson 150 Looper with that linkage that sits atop the flywheel cover. I have to remove the linkage actuator arm among other things so it looks like I do have to adjust the spark advance at least. Don't know if that means I have to readjust the entire timing system...
the stevens st-77 load adapter is my 1st test after disconnecting the stop wires to rule out the stop switch. you need a dva of course, the adapter, and coil terminal extenders. that way you can test the pack output and eliminate a possibly bad ignition coil in 2 easy tests. the DVA adapter is a must, as you know, especially for testing sensor coils as they are a very low voltage. the problem with resistance is you can get an out of spec reading, but that particular ignition component will still work fine and it was something else. I do see they replaced your stator with a CDI one in the past. I try get NOS parts when i can. CDI has gone down in quality in the past 5 years. OEM is absolutely better 100%. noticed your bearing on the CDI timer was sticking... yeah they never fit right i always use the old one just a clue they arent made that well. ive had many CDI failures over the years. I do urge you to do a voltage test for the kill wires. simply hook up your meter to each kill wire (2 in total) and flick the ignition key off and on a few times. anything over 2 volts and it will fry your pack and / or timer from said bad pack (blown diodes go right into the delicate sensor coil). great video cheers!
Hey man 200hp 91 Johnson had no spark on side was able to jump it from one bank to another, was running with the occasional not starting on the water, finally it won’t start at all, no spark in all clyinders could it be the timer base?
Hey I know this is an old video, but I bought a 130 Looper and it has a brand new timer base on it but its sticking/pretty dang tight in the spot where it goes. I took it apart, cleaned all the grooves out and lubed it with white lithium and it isn't one bit better, I've tried playing with it but can't get it to move free no matter what. Any ideas? I atually have alot of experience with these engines but I can't seem to figure this out, and don't want to buy another timer base just to hope that that one will move free
Yess!! The plastic ring. If it's clear white/nylon it's trash. Get a black plastic one or an OEM replacement if you can. You can also polish it with very fine sandpaper (1000 grit) to make it glide better, but it takes hours. I had the same problem. Degrease the timer base seat too.
@@MattsShop that’s definitely on point. I found Amazon reviews for that CDI timer base and 3 reviews say it stuck out of the box but their old ring fixed it. I sanded stepping up and up in grit for way too long with no real help. Found an oem black ring on eBay and got it ordered. Thanks a ton, also saves money not having to buy the whole thinf
So I am replacing my stator this weekend (it’s bad) and going to go ahead and do the trigger. My boat was running great before the issue with the stator, do I have to do the timing when installing new trigger? I was thinking I’d I didn’t mess with the stop screw I wouldn’t need to.
The timing always has to be checked when you replace the trigger/timer base. It can be dangerous. I would recommend getting professional help if you're not comfortable doing it.
I have a 1989 Johnson GT 175. And it will get spark just for a few times and then the spark will go away. What do you think that could be?. The boat shop said that it could be the stater the timer base and the power pack all at the same time. They will not replace anything separately. What do you suggest on the spark come in in in a little bit and then going away?
so the ring on the timer base is NOT supposed to turn with it? mine is turning with it, and was binding on the clips that hold it in. pryed one lil loose but im gonna have to take it apart and clean good. JW if clips hold it solid, or the plastic ring spins under them?
hello good I have an evinrude 140 hp two-stroke and the problem I have is that two cylinders do not burn gasoline it has understanding and spark but it does not burn fuel I hope you can give me some advice
Matt, I need your help sir. I have a 1990 140hp v4 looper and I too am chasing an electrical problem. I tried to test my trigger today and one side (port) was easy because it had a white wire. The starboard side however does not have a white wire and only test at .25 ohms no matter which pin(s) I touched. Which wire will be my constant or am I totally wrong on how I tried to do it? Look forward to your reply.
The instructions are perfect for one side but, the other pig tail coming from the trigger doesn’t have a white wire. I’m lost on how to test it. Maybe I’m reading it wrong but the instructions say to touch white/blue etc.
Anybody ever had a problem with the flywheel not sitting right inside the timer base I got seated properly is rotates freely after being tightened down but when I go to put the flywheel on it don’t move like at all
@@MattsShop I really hate to hear that it's not fun. My project tractor ,1980 1601 D with no compression, sitting at my little shop waiting it's turn. I think I'll just go fishin' ! Keep posting your vids, I look forward to each one.
One more question for ya. So I have a 120 force and the flywheel has slots in it so it will only go on one way. Could that still throw off my timing since everything is being put back in the exact same place??
@@MattsShop Long story short. Bought the boat about 10 years ago. Got ripped off. Threw a rod first time on the lake. Purchased a rebuilt block and had a guy install. Few years later the water pump went out. Had a new one installed. Later on found water intrusion in one cylinder. Found a guy in NC who had some blocks and got him to rebuild one for me. Still had issues when I got it back. Decided to work on it myself. I’m no mechanic but can’t find anyone around here to work on it so I decided to learn some stuff. Mostly from videos like yours and BBC forum. I have replaced the power pack, starter, timer base, stator and regulator. Still have occasional hard starts and rough idle. I started the link and sync watching your video yesterday. The choke plates did need adjusted so I got that done. That’s as far as I got. I would just like to get somebody that knows what they’re doing to check it out and diagnose any issues. I’m lost when it comes to diagnosing electrical components. I should’ve mentioned that all of the parts I installed were used except the power pack. So much for making a long story short 😊 Thanks for replying!
Any thoughts on a good starter 1991 Johnson 150 mine has eat up 2 the magnets inside keep coming unglued and takes out the starter $60 off eBay not worth anything
@@MattsShop no I have a no spark like you did in this video working on it now pulling flywheel it was running and just stopped no spark but I turned it over so many times the magnets inside the starter broke out and took the starter out twice checked the kill switch side all good had this boat 2 years had a skip when I got it replaced the power pack and all was good now no spark on any plugs
Also when changing the starter I found the bottom bolt that the ground is on has gotten stripped out starter would spin but not in gauge waiting on a set of time serts to rethread would this bad ground cause a no spark ground is coming from the solenoid
Hey Yall! Tools and parts in the description. Check out the Evinrude tuning video: ruclips.net/video/iAtht6nGlDgT/видео.htmlimestamps:
0:00 Pulling Up
0:46 Intro
1:42 Inspection
3:58 Stator Voltage Test
4:33 Kill Switch Circuit Test
6:20 Spark Test
6:54 Timer Base Test
9:20 Flywheel Removal
12:11 Timer Base Removal
12:57 New Timer Base
14:37 Timer Base Installation
14:02 Flywheel Installation
18:23 Test Start
20:17 Outro
Matt, thank you for making this video!!!
This was an absolute life saver!! So helpful!!
I was having no spark with the same motor.
Did basically exactly what you did with testing the timer base etc.
Keep making these type of videos!
Thanks again!
You're welcome! I have been needing to make some more outboard videos.
I always make sure to check the timing because it always changes when you change the timer base. They always seem to go bad on these old outboards.
Like your approach to finding and fixing the problems ...straight to the point and nice and simple. keep it up, 10/10
Thanks man I will!
Matt, thank you for the video. I am having the same problem with my Johnson 75 HP 1981 and I think is the Timer Base. I will check the voltages and Ohms as you describe it.
Good luck!
One of your best videos for sure! Great work!
Wow, thanks!
So zapping that flywheel bolt off with my electric impact could be a bad idea , but it works 💪
If you strip it you strip the crankshaft lol
Awesome work and showing how to on the videos,and great tool making skills, thanks
You're welcome!
Really great job explaining the problem.
Thanks!
Awesome video and straight forward explanation. This outboard Johnston has been in the shop for weeks. Your video can help me get this thing running for my buddy.
So my mechanic dropped his 91 Johnston off. I'll be burning the midnight oil watching your video over and over again before I even start to pull the flywheel
So we could not find a new trigger base from CDI. I told them that we have 5 wires and also gave him the color of each wire. I must not be talking with a guy that actually works there because I'm sure that by telling him the wire color and the number of wires they should know exactly what I'm talking about.
The issue is that the serial # decal is not present on this 90hp Johnson.
Sweet as always great video
Thanks man!
The best of the best
Hi I have a 1981 v6 175 evinrude and it starts great I link and sink it but when it warms up it has a Intermediate misfire or seems 1 or more cylinder stop firing then comes good then stop again ..all plugs are good and coil pack seem to check out … cheers robb
Hello friend, I follow your channel because I have a johnson ocean runner 200 hp and it worked perfectly but one day after I was walking I stopped accelerating, I tried but I could not, I realized that the flywheel did not turn as before I disassembled it and all the magnets were loose Before that process, change all the plugs of the spark plugs and coils and also campie the plugs of the cdi power pack that connect to the spark plugs, until then it had current but it came out again and there the problem began, I lost the current in My spark plugs and the only thing left to change is the base cdi timer, because I tried other cdi power packs but none of them work, that is to say that this is not my problem and the stator and flywheel are new
If you already changed everything then it's probably the timer base unless its the ignition kill switch circuit.
Still watching again and again drill it in my head
I'm watching over again
Awesome ✌️
Thanks Matt awesome Vids, very helpful. BTW a quick warning for anyone trying this (learn from my stupidity. I have a 40hp 1993Evinrude. I am in the middle of timer base replacement now. When pulling the flywheel, the 3 tapped holes are thru holes not blind as I assumed. Guess what's on the other side? Yep, the timer base. I think I ruined my timer base pulling the flywheel off. Screw for my hub puller when right through in 3 places. Awesome. Oh well. B.O.A.T!!!!
OH NOOOO! I always checked to make sure the bolts were only as long as the threads in the flywheel. Sorry, that stinks!
Thanks for sharing.
Learning the hard way can be some of the best lessons learned, but it's nice to learn from others mistakes!
@@jupitercyclops6521 your motor does not have a timer base, but a small sensor coil fastened to the magneto plate. super easy to replace. in the future consider shoulder bolts with like 1/4'' exposed.
I can't wait for you to make video on 70 hp Johnson
Great video. I ran the same diagnosis and took a chance and ordered a new TB....fingers crossed. What do your compression numbers look like.
150PSI all cylinders
Great video--Once you remove flywheel do i need to re-set the timing?
I always check it, technically yes, but most people probably only check it after they mess with the timer base. It's not fun and can be dangerous to check.
Need to use a pin extractor tool rather than a nail to remove the pins in the timer base plug pins. When pushing pins out with a nail the locking tab on the pin is damaged. This results in the pins pushing back out when connecting the male and female plugs which you experienced in the video. They make extractor tools for a reason & this is it.
Yes, it would be MUCH better to use the pin extractor tool to do this. These pins had sleeves and then the pin slid inside them. They were fine and weren't damaged.
Awesome job thanks
You bet!
sir my engine don't spin I already replaced starter and the solenoid as well .. looks like is stuck I hear the very strong kick from starter but the top heel don't spin at all,, what can be the issue .. please help-
Just wanna say you are awesome man. Very informative videos. I just replaced the stator, timer base, and rectifier on my 1990 xp150. I have a no spark condition on all banks. The stator was shot. Decided that since i had flywheel off i would just replace the rest. Where are you located? Youre a great outboard mech.
Thanks! Did you check the timing? It has to be checked when you replace the timer base! I love working on outboards!
I Have a 1990 Evinrude v6 150.
Love your vids very helpful and down to earth and to the point.
If your shop was close I'd like to see what you would charge. Set the carbs, timing, idle, high speed settings. Your vids are very helpful and easy to understand
I have a1988 Evinrude 150 xp with an issue with the flywheel rubbing the timing base top main bearing seems to be bad but not sure if I have a junk motor or if I maybe can just replace that bearing looking for some kind of insight
When I give full throttle at my box it looks like my arm that advances the spark doesn't even move much if any at all. Then I go back there and can manually move it alot and it will spring back into place . My issue was not accelerating in water , running good out of water but under load not picking up
Sounds like I might need a new timer base ? Or just grease it up? It moves free by hand easily just my throttle isn't moving it much at all
I've had the exact problem. There is normally old dried grease under the plastic ring under the timer base. The ring can be worn too. Are your throttle cables moving good? Is the timing lever on the engine moving freely?
Hey mat can i ask you question i rebuilt carbs on a 70hp jonson and when i put back the fuel line had no clearance so i put the feed carb that feeds gas in to top one does it matter if my gas feeds in from top
Any thoughts if it could be stator or timer base for my issue? 1978 115 Evinrude that gets up on plane then loses power and bogs down. Both stator and timing base have the proper ohms when tested. Has new fuel lines, pickups, fuel pump so we dont think its the a fuel issue. Starts up perfect just cant get up on plane. Replaced both power packs as well. Any thoughts?
It's always the fuel check to see if there is a hidden fuel pickup filter somewhere. Make sure the timer base rotates freely. If it can't fully advance against the WOT stop exactly this will happen. Dont adjust it unless you know how to reset the WOT timing.
The only issue I have is the timing base is gummy and hangs up. When removing the stator and flywheel to get at it, does that mean I have to readjust timing after I reassemble? Timing spark advance is perfect right now.
I always check the WOT timing just to make sure because that is the one that can damage the engine. If you didn't touch the screw it shouldn't have moved. Though, you never know unless you check it.
@@MattsShop Forgot to mention I have an 04 Johnson 150 Looper with that linkage that sits atop the flywheel cover. I have to remove the linkage actuator arm among other things so it looks like I do have to adjust the spark advance at least. Don't know if that means I have to readjust the entire timing system...
the stevens st-77 load adapter is my 1st test after disconnecting the stop wires to rule out the stop switch. you need a dva of course, the adapter, and coil terminal extenders. that way you can test the pack output and eliminate a possibly bad ignition coil in 2 easy tests. the DVA adapter is a must, as you know, especially for testing sensor coils as they are a very low voltage. the problem with resistance is you can get an out of spec reading, but that particular ignition component will still work fine and it was something else. I do see they replaced your stator with a CDI one in the past. I try get NOS parts when i can. CDI has gone down in quality in the past 5 years. OEM is absolutely better 100%. noticed your bearing on the CDI timer was sticking... yeah they never fit right i always use the old one just a clue they arent made that well. ive had many CDI failures over the years. I do urge you to do a voltage test for the kill wires. simply hook up your meter to each kill wire (2 in total) and flick the ignition key off and on a few times. anything over 2 volts and it will fry your pack and / or timer from said bad pack (blown diodes go right into the delicate sensor coil). great video cheers!
Hey man 200hp 91 Johnson had no spark on side was able to jump it from one bank to another, was running with the occasional not starting on the water, finally it won’t start at all, no spark in all clyinders could it be the timer base?
One fast way pull spark plugs and eliminate starter and battery when you crank check spark and then charge coils and continue
Hay, i have a machine Evendrud e-tech 200 Ho no start and no outo trim, what needs to be done !!!!😇
Good Jobs.
can you use a timing light to find a bad coil?
Yes, works great. That's how I do it.
Hey I know this is an old video, but I bought a 130 Looper and it has a brand new timer base on it but its sticking/pretty dang tight in the spot where it goes. I took it apart, cleaned all the grooves out and lubed it with white lithium and it isn't one bit better, I've tried playing with it but can't get it to move free no matter what. Any ideas? I atually have alot of experience with these engines but I can't seem to figure this out, and don't want to buy another timer base just to hope that that one will move free
Yess!! The plastic ring. If it's clear white/nylon it's trash. Get a black plastic one or an OEM replacement if you can. You can also polish it with very fine sandpaper (1000 grit) to make it glide better, but it takes hours. I had the same problem. Degrease the timer base seat too.
@@MattsShop that’s definitely on point. I found Amazon reviews for that CDI timer base and 3 reviews say it stuck out of the box but their old ring fixed it. I sanded stepping up and up in grit for way too long with no real help. Found an oem black ring on eBay and got it ordered. Thanks a ton, also saves money not having to buy the whole thinf
Went got my grade 8 bolts all sizes
So I am replacing my stator this weekend (it’s bad) and going to go ahead and do the trigger. My boat was running great before the issue with the stator, do I have to do the timing when installing new trigger? I was thinking I’d I didn’t mess with the stop screw I wouldn’t need to.
The timing always has to be checked when you replace the trigger/timer base. It can be dangerous. I would recommend getting professional help if you're not comfortable doing it.
Great videos. I just bought a Johnson 1989 GT150 I have no spark on port side bank. Not getting signal to the coils. Any suggestion? Thanks in advance
Probably the
Timer Base: This video
Kill switch: ruclips.net/video/Vpe6m-yEG9Y/видео.html
Or Stator: ruclips.net/video/SwYHj0xKh90/видео.html
I need you to do a 70 hp johnson same thing im look at your videos to find
I have a 1989 Johnson GT 175. And it will get spark just for a few times and then the spark will go away. What do you think that could be?. The boat shop said that it could be the stater the timer base and the power pack all at the same time. They will not replace anything separately. What do you suggest on the spark come in in in a little bit and then going away?
Sounds like a scam to me. They should test each component and replace the bad one. All that stuff doesn't typically go bad at once.
Hey Matt I have a 2004 Johnson 130. I get spark on all 4 plugs but when running only one fires. Thoughts?
Me gusta mucho angel Eddie castro de puerto Rico 🇵🇷 👍
Hola!
so the ring on the timer base is NOT supposed to turn with it? mine is turning with it, and was binding on the clips that hold it in. pryed one lil loose but im gonna have to take it apart and clean good. JW if clips hold it solid, or the plastic ring spins under them?
Right. The screws hold the ring down firm. White lithium grease on top and inside of plastic ring. Don't let the keepers rub.
hello good I have an evinrude 140 hp two-stroke and the problem I have is that two cylinders do not burn gasoline it has understanding and spark but it does not burn fuel I hope you can give me some advice
What is the deal with the still picture of your mug on top of the video ????
?????
Nice!!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Matt,
I need your help sir. I have a 1990 140hp v4 looper and I too am chasing an electrical problem. I tried to test my trigger today and one side (port) was easy because it had a white wire. The starboard side however does not have a white wire and only test at .25 ohms no matter which pin(s) I touched. Which wire will be my constant or am I totally wrong on how I tried to do it? Look forward to your reply.
The part number for the stator is 583508, just need to know procedure for testing the lead with only 4 wires and no white wire
Check out the description first. I have CDI Electronics ignition testing manual there.
The instructions are perfect for one side but, the other pig tail coming from the trigger doesn’t have a white wire. I’m lost on how to test it. Maybe I’m reading it wrong but the instructions say to touch white/blue etc.
is that loctite u used on any of the bolts or the flywheel nut? or antisieze?
Blue loctite on the tiny trigger base screws. Anti-sieze on the flywheel nut torqued to spec.
I have this exact motor and having issues under load… thoughts
I'm having problem finding torc spec on 70 johnson 1987 I looked at goggle and looked I see one buy says only through 1975 only
Now im have to build me one of them tools lol
Anybody ever had a problem with the flywheel not sitting right inside the timer base I got seated properly is rotates freely after being tightened down but when I go to put the flywheel on it don’t move like at all
Just did this on a 25 Merc. P.I.T.A ! But Hey, how's the Yanmar project progressing ?
Yea, it's not fun at all. Worked on it today should be done in a week.
@@MattsShop I really hate to hear that it's not fun. My project tractor ,1980 1601 D with no compression, sitting at my little shop waiting it's turn. I think I'll just go fishin' ! Keep posting your vids, I look forward to each one.
Haha. No the tractor was fun. The boat wasn't lol My video should help.
Well we saw a glinse of the tractor in this video 🚜 🤪
Haha. I have to go back to the machine shop tomorrow.
When you change the trigger is it required to have the timing tested? Or is it like a plug and play?
Yes! You ABSOLUTELY have to check the pickup timing and the WOT Timing. I do it in this video: ruclips.net/video/iAtht6nGlDg/видео.html
@@MattsShop thank you!
One more question for ya. So I have a 120 force and the flywheel has slots in it so it will only go on one way. Could that still throw off my timing since everything is being put back in the exact same place??
Hey Matt Serious question. Would it be a problem electronically if I can’t get all 4 stator screws back in?
It could rub on the flywheel magnet. Why can't you get it in?
@@MattsShop stripped threads in power head and one bolt broke inside the hole 🤷🏻♂️
@@MattsShop not sure what to do now. Was thinking tapping and going bigger thread but didn’t know how that would affect it
You don’t happen to live in Florida do you? I have the same motor and had a melt down a few weeks ago. Electrical fire…
No, I don't live in Florida. That sucks!!
Hey man how you doin ?
Do you work on boats ?
I been have few problems on my 70 hp Jonson and would like to know if you can help !
Hey, what's wrong with it?
Johnson motor old the best
what size is the crankshaft nut?
I have a 150XP @ 1988 model. I'd love get you to help me tune it up. You live near South Carolina?:)
Maybe, what's wrong with it?
@@MattsShop Long story short. Bought the boat about 10 years ago. Got ripped off. Threw a rod first time on the lake. Purchased a rebuilt block and had a guy install. Few years later the water pump went out. Had a new one installed. Later on found water intrusion in one cylinder. Found a guy in NC who had some blocks and got him to rebuild one for me. Still had issues when I got it back. Decided to work on it myself. I’m no mechanic but can’t find anyone around here to work on it so I decided to learn some stuff. Mostly from videos like yours and BBC forum. I have replaced the power pack, starter, timer base, stator and regulator. Still have occasional hard starts and rough idle. I started the link and sync watching your video yesterday. The choke plates did need adjusted so I got that done. That’s as far as I got. I would just like to get somebody that knows what they’re doing to check it out and diagnose any issues. I’m lost when it comes to diagnosing electrical components. I should’ve mentioned that all of the parts I installed were used except the power pack. So much for making a long story short 😊
Thanks for replying!
Power pack on opposite side
Any thoughts on a good starter 1991 Johnson 150 mine has eat up 2 the magnets inside keep coming unglued and takes out the starter $60 off eBay not worth anything
Is your stator old and rubbing? Sometimes the glue inside them expands and they rub on the magnets.
@@MattsShop no I have a no spark like you did in this video working on it now pulling flywheel it was running and just stopped no spark but I turned it over so many times the magnets inside the starter broke out and took the starter out twice checked the kill switch side all good had this boat 2 years had a skip when I got it replaced the power pack and all was good now no spark on any plugs
Also when changing the starter I found the bottom bolt that the ground is on has gotten stripped out starter would spin but not in gauge waiting on a set of time serts to rethread would this bad ground cause a no spark ground is coming from the solenoid
Matt, any idea how to get the black timing arm attachment out of the timer base? Im switching timers and new one doesn't have it. Thanks.
You push the ball part out. That plastic "socket" part is hard to remove. You can use a pick or a screwdriver. You can buy a new part and pop it in.
@@MattsShop thank you.
Can I call you i have a question
I need help. My 1983 175hp evinrude won’t run full throttle. I replaced the fuel pumps and not it has a sneeze plus it won’t run full throttle
Hey, have you tried to link and sync your outboard? Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/iAtht6nGlDg/видео.html
You in New England area?
Nope
Wait torque specs aren't in ugga duggas
They are after you work on the thing all day!
Be my luck it would have spark and id be blind for the next few minutes lol
Hahaha that's a good thing. It means less work.
If you could help me with your experience I would be grateful
What do you need help with?
Dude why is there a picture of your face in the video the whole time? It covers most of the video bro. It's super annoying!
assembled in the usa....only means all the parts are from china! think ill stick with oem parts. but great vid by all means.