A mi caja le hice esos mismo que le hiciste, le puse turbina, y me hace la falla que de.repente se patina, y cuando vuelve a entrar patea y entra fuerte, podrías ayudarme?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission haber si me puedo explicar, o más bien si podrás entender mi forma de explicar, El coche despega bien aceleras y entran bien todas las marchas, el detalle es que si vas a pasar algún obstáculo lo desaceleras y vuelves a acelerar no entra la velocidad, eso en baja, se va se patina, esperas así en movimiento como a 20k/h entra bruscamente, y a veces suave, al armar la arme así como lo hiciste incluso le cambie el selenoide es nuevo, le cambie los discos le cambié los empaques, le puse turbina, está caja la traigo en un Buick Regal límited 2.8l modelo 1988! , Si pudieras ayudarme te lo agradezco!
You need to put a gauge on it and check the line pressure. Did you replace the modulator on this unit? Also might want to check and see if there is an orifice inthe throttle body port where the vacuum line goes. If there is or if there is a restrictor in the line between the modulator and the throttle body take it out. In the case of the one in the throttle body itself, drill it to about .080. Not all had a restrictor. Do check your vacuum at the modulator and make sure that it drops off immediately when you accelerate.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok, lo voy a checar entonces! También lo arranco y al.mover la palanca en todas las velocidades no se mueve, por más que le acelere, lo tengo que apagar, y volver a arrancar, entonces se mueve! Pero voy a checar la.presion y lo la modulador, muchas gracias!
Just took my 90 Olds 88 in to trans shop to have pan gasket fixed. On the way home trans started slipping and now its stuck in first. Trans was completely fine before hand. Why did this happen?
There would be a lot of things I would just have to guess at. Since it is stuck in first gear try this. Shut the vehicle off. Take your foot and stomp on the accelerator pedal like you were trying to stamp out a fire. Really violently 4-5 times all the way to the floor. Start the vehicle and see if it will shift.
Hi . I have a 1991 Pontiac Grand Prix. That's where the 4T60 gearbox is. I live in Poland and here it is a very unusual car. I have a little problem. The gearbox changes gears very well and smoothly, but there is a phenomenon that after putting "D" in gear, the gear engages immediately, which is as it should be, but the car moves forward very slowly. After adding the gas, it starts normally. There is also a sound effect when I accelerate, something like the howling of a power steering pump (with air in it). Is it the fault of the gearbox? or converter? When the car is stationary and idling, when I disconnect the vacuum tube from the modulator, the transmission makes a strange buzzing noise. When I turn it back on, the sound stops. Is it normal ? I have a 4T60E gearbox filter installed, is it correct? And the last question: can the diameter of the oil cooler pipes affect all this? There should be tubes with a diameter of almost 10 mm and I have other, narrower ones, 8 mm. This is because I have a radiator with an exchanger from the version with the 3T40 gearbox and there were thinner pipes. I would be very grateful for your help. Regards . Adam.
The filter is diffeerent between the 4T60 & the E. The noise is the filter sucking air from being collapsed or could be from just being the wrong one. You created a restriction with the cooler lines. If you cannot get the proper radiator I would just get a stand alone cooler for it and put the proper cooler lines on it. They make on that has a fan built on it to help with cooling. www.haydenauto.com/en/products/transmission-oil-coolers/hayden-transmission-oil-coolers/the-dawg-remote-transmission-cooling
@CurmudgeonTransmission. Thank you very much for your quick response. Can this restriction of flow in the cooling line affect the efficiency of the box and its effectiveness in terms of operating pressures? I know that it may cause the gearbox to get very hot and then the oil may degrade. And tell me, can this noise, which is probably caused by air intake, cause the efficiency of the converter to decrease and therefore the car does not drive itself when you release the brake? It is very difficult to buy a filter from 4T60, there are plenty of offers for 4T60E filters. The difference in installation is that you need to remove a piece of sheet metal from the 4T60E filter so that it can be installed correctly, and everyone writes that it is interchangeable. Regards . Adam
It will effect the cooling. Yes, it can effect the converter because it is starving for fluid. There are Chinese knock-offs that do not work very well. Try and get a Filtran filter if possible.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for your help. I will be looking for such a filter. I have always used AC/Delco filters and I have never had such a problem (weird sounds). Do you recommend any specific oil for this gearbox? I use normal DII from the Polish company Orlen. Does it make sense to use a different oil? With a different quality specification, e.g. DIII or D IV? Could they be better and less likely to mix with air?
Hi, Im in the UK and recently got a 1990 Deville with a 4T60 trans in bits in the boot. Would you be able to give me a list of tools id need to put it back together? Have a haynes manual for it but know sometimes the tools needed and the tools the manual suggests can be quite diffrent lists. Obvioisly trying to order as little as possible from US
No special tools are needed for this one. Don't even need anything to compress the spring cages, they can be pushed down by hand. Seal and bushing drivers are nice to have. The rest are just your sockets and of course a lip seal tool. Feeler gauge will work fine.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thats brillant to hear, thank you for replying. Ive gone through all parts I have and compared to lists and im almost certain its all there but i can't see anything obviously wrong with it. Its on 180k when it failed but that was 15 years ago have noone to ask its symptoms. Wondering as its been in the UK all of its life that the clutch discs may be worn out from constant gear changes. The plastic washers with tabs were broken but not sure if that was from storage. Would you have amy sugestions where to look for issues?
Washers were horrible, especially the one between the second drum and 4th clutch support. Pump shaft would strip the splines as well as the bearing pitting the surface of the shaft. 4th clutch shaft splines would strip. Bands would break. 2nd clutch steels with the Kolene would wear down so the Kolene was gone and give you firm shifts. Later models with molded piston would shrink and loose pressure. Gaskets between the case and channel plate would blow out. Be sure and flat sand all those surfaces. Gasket sealer would be a good idea there, they did not come from the factory with it. There were some models that had a 2-piece valve in the channel plate that was held together by a little clip that is horrible about breaking. Chains are bad about stretching. Accumulators wearing at the pin, springs breaking. Bushing wear, especially the one in the case at the passenger axle and the one in the input drum. If the teeth are eating away on the clutches in the input drum your sprags need replacing even if they are holding. Reverse reaction drum (one with all the holes in it) would wear out the lugs where it sits on the planet. They make a hardened one to help prevent that. Washers on the pinions of the differential would wear. If there is one brass and one steel on each side of the pinion, replace the brass one with another steel one. Making 2 steel on each side. Always replace the lock-up solenoid. Seeing as it is a 90 model it should have most of the updates that I can remember already done to it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Again thank you for your reesponce, Over last couple eveings been going back over parts i have and further dissasembly following your advise aswell as your disassmbly film. Looks like missing a few parts like wireing harness, modulator and few other pieces. There is damage to the case where looks like servos have been forced, There is wear to the reverse reaction drum, couldnt quite figure out which part you refered when talking about the moulded pistons, pretty much all the pinion gears on all the sets have massive amounts of thrust play, not sure about chain but couldnt see any wear on the channel plate but does seam to get out of phase if your wrap it whole way around drive sproket, pump shaft splines are present but obvisoly starting to become abit mishapen. Too add there was massive amounts of grey sludge all the way through it , I assume this is clutch matrial but main issue im having is cant get the 2nd drum clutch apart from the Input Drum theres abit of movment but doesnt wanna come apart, ive left it soaking for not. Is it possible its something in there thats the issue? parts are pretty thin over here can only find 4l60s and gonna assume they only share a naming system and Its pretty obvious gonna need more than rebuild kit which is sad. 4t65s are about aswell. this puzzles expencive. Again thank you for your time
Sorry so long getting back to you. Pretty common problem. Depending on which style snap ring you have on the 2nd drum, you might be able to take a scribe and pop the snap ring out and this will allow you to get it apart. Probably will have ruined your input drum. Yeah they can get expensive quick. Especially nowadays.
I do wonder if the 4 gigabyte file limit size is the problem with the camera as I have no experience or idea of the size of the raw file stored? kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/289/~/transferring-a-4gb-or-larger-file-to-a-usb-flash-drive-or-memory-card A free program you can find and download that is brilliant for removable memory testing and formatting and setup is called rufus. And another one called guiformat is the windows version of FAT32 format program which if IIRC does NTFS just as good and is also brilliant for fixing sketchy formats done by other programs with less intrinsic talents. ATB.
Thanks for this. I think it must be a format problem as I had downloaded the video I had before I left. When I came back the video card was blank and that is when the problem occured. I will check this out, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the content. I appreciate all the material!
Glad you enjoy it!
A mi caja le hice esos mismo que le hiciste, le puse turbina, y me hace la falla que de.repente se patina, y cuando vuelve a entrar patea y entra fuerte, podrías ayudarme?
Es esa misma transmisión automática la mi a a la.que armaste
What gears is this happening in? Any codes?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission haber si me puedo explicar, o más bien si podrás entender mi forma de explicar,
El coche despega bien aceleras y entran bien todas las marchas, el detalle es que si vas a pasar algún obstáculo lo desaceleras y vuelves a acelerar no entra la velocidad, eso en baja, se va se patina, esperas así en movimiento como a 20k/h entra bruscamente, y a veces suave, al armar la arme así como lo hiciste incluso le cambie el selenoide es nuevo, le cambie los discos le cambié los empaques, le puse turbina, está caja la traigo en un Buick Regal límited 2.8l modelo 1988! , Si pudieras ayudarme te lo agradezco!
You need to put a gauge on it and check the line pressure. Did you replace the modulator on this unit? Also might want to check and see if there is an orifice inthe throttle body port where the vacuum line goes. If there is or if there is a restrictor in the line between the modulator and the throttle body take it out. In the case of the one in the throttle body itself, drill it to about .080. Not all had a restrictor. Do check your vacuum at the modulator and make sure that it drops off immediately when you accelerate.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok, lo voy a checar entonces! También lo arranco y al.mover la palanca en todas las velocidades no se mueve, por más que le acelere, lo tengo que apagar, y volver a arrancar, entonces se mueve! Pero voy a checar la.presion y lo la modulador, muchas gracias!
Saludos amigo la caja 4t60E es compatible con la Chevrolet Sunfire motor 2,2 año 2002
No that will either be a 3T40 or 4T40E.
Just took my 90 Olds 88 in to trans shop to have pan gasket fixed. On the way home trans started slipping and now its stuck in first. Trans was completely fine before hand. Why did this happen?
There would be a lot of things I would just have to guess at. Since it is stuck in first gear try this. Shut the vehicle off. Take your foot and stomp on the accelerator pedal like you were trying to stamp out a fire. Really violently 4-5 times all the way to the floor. Start the vehicle and see if it will shift.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission brought it back to the shop and the did that to the kick down cable. No luck at all
@@medic8890 Might have to do it several times. Is the speedo working?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes, speedo works
@@medic8890 Try it a few more times. I mean get really violent. Like you are trying to put your foot through the floor. Stomp quickly.
hello i have a 1989 buick park anvene with the 440t in it. just started slipping .you can use mind to do the rebuild
Hi . I have a 1991 Pontiac Grand Prix. That's where the 4T60 gearbox is. I live in Poland and here it is a very unusual car. I have a little problem. The gearbox changes gears very well and smoothly, but there is a phenomenon that after putting "D" in gear, the gear engages immediately, which is as it should be, but the car moves forward very slowly. After adding the gas, it starts normally. There is also a sound effect when I accelerate, something like the howling of a power steering pump (with air in it). Is it the fault of the gearbox? or converter? When the car is stationary and idling, when I disconnect the vacuum tube from the modulator, the transmission makes a strange buzzing noise. When I turn it back on, the sound stops. Is it normal ? I have a 4T60E gearbox filter installed, is it correct? And the last question: can the diameter of the oil cooler pipes affect all this? There should be tubes with a diameter of almost 10 mm and I have other, narrower ones, 8 mm. This is because I have a radiator with an exchanger from the version with the 3T40 gearbox and there were thinner pipes. I would be very grateful for your help. Regards . Adam.
The filter is diffeerent between the 4T60 & the E. The noise is the filter sucking air from being collapsed or could be from just being the wrong one. You created a restriction with the cooler lines. If you cannot get the proper radiator I would just get a stand alone cooler for it and put the proper cooler lines on it. They make on that has a fan built on it to help with cooling. www.haydenauto.com/en/products/transmission-oil-coolers/hayden-transmission-oil-coolers/the-dawg-remote-transmission-cooling
@CurmudgeonTransmission. Thank you very much for your quick response. Can this restriction of flow in the cooling line affect the efficiency of the box and its effectiveness in terms of operating pressures? I know that it may cause the gearbox to get very hot and then the oil may degrade. And tell me, can this noise, which is probably caused by air intake, cause the efficiency of the converter to decrease and therefore the car does not drive itself when you release the brake? It is very difficult to buy a filter from 4T60, there are plenty of offers for 4T60E filters. The difference in installation is that you need to remove a piece of sheet metal from the 4T60E filter so that it can be installed correctly, and everyone writes that it is interchangeable. Regards . Adam
It will effect the cooling. Yes, it can effect the converter because it is starving for fluid. There are Chinese knock-offs that do not work very well. Try and get a Filtran filter if possible.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for your help. I will be looking for such a filter. I have always used AC/Delco filters and I have never had such a problem (weird sounds). Do you recommend any specific oil for this gearbox? I use normal DII from the Polish company Orlen. Does it make sense to use a different oil? With a different quality specification, e.g. DIII or D IV? Could they be better and less likely to mix with air?
Dexron III would be best.
Can you do the video about transmission J01?
Thanks
J01? What vehicle are we talking about?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Audi A6 for example
01J. I don't get those very often. It has been some time since I have had one so I am due to see one anytime. When one comes in it will be done.
Hi, Im in the UK and recently got a 1990 Deville with a 4T60 trans in bits in the boot. Would you be able to give me a list of tools id need to put it back together? Have a haynes manual for it but know sometimes the tools needed and the tools the manual suggests can be quite diffrent lists. Obvioisly trying to order as little as possible from US
No special tools are needed for this one. Don't even need anything to compress the spring cages, they can be pushed down by hand. Seal and bushing drivers are nice to have. The rest are just your sockets and of course a lip seal tool. Feeler gauge will work fine.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thats brillant to hear, thank you for replying. Ive gone through all parts I have and compared to lists and im almost certain its all there but i can't see anything obviously wrong with it. Its on 180k when it failed but that was 15 years ago have noone to ask its symptoms. Wondering as its been in the UK all of its life that the clutch discs may be worn out from constant gear changes. The plastic washers with tabs were broken but not sure if that was from storage.
Would you have amy sugestions where to look for issues?
Washers were horrible, especially the one between the second drum and 4th clutch support. Pump shaft would strip the splines as well as the bearing pitting the surface of the shaft. 4th clutch shaft splines would strip. Bands would break. 2nd clutch steels with the Kolene would wear down so the Kolene was gone and give you firm shifts. Later models with molded piston would shrink and loose pressure. Gaskets between the case and channel plate would blow out. Be sure and flat sand all those surfaces. Gasket sealer would be a good idea there, they did not come from the factory with it. There were some models that had a 2-piece valve in the channel plate that was held together by a little clip that is horrible about breaking. Chains are bad about stretching. Accumulators wearing at the pin, springs breaking. Bushing wear, especially the one in the case at the passenger axle and the one in the input drum. If the teeth are eating away on the clutches in the input drum your sprags need replacing even if they are holding. Reverse reaction drum (one with all the holes in it) would wear out the lugs where it sits on the planet. They make a hardened one to help prevent that. Washers on the pinions of the differential would wear. If there is one brass and one steel on each side of the pinion, replace the brass one with another steel one. Making 2 steel on each side. Always replace the lock-up solenoid. Seeing as it is a 90 model it should have most of the updates that I can remember already done to it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Again thank you for your reesponce, Over last couple eveings been going back over parts i have and further dissasembly following your advise aswell as your disassmbly film.
Looks like missing a few parts like wireing harness, modulator and few other pieces. There is damage to the case where looks like servos have been forced, There is wear to the reverse reaction drum, couldnt quite figure out which part you refered when talking about the moulded pistons, pretty much all the pinion gears on all the sets have massive amounts of thrust play, not sure about chain but couldnt see any wear on the channel plate but does seam to get out of phase if your wrap it whole way around drive sproket, pump shaft splines are present but obvisoly starting to become abit mishapen. Too add there was massive amounts of grey sludge all the way through it , I assume this is clutch matrial
but main issue im having is cant get the 2nd drum clutch apart from the Input Drum theres abit of movment but doesnt wanna come apart, ive left it soaking for not. Is it possible its something in there thats the issue?
parts are pretty thin over here can only find 4l60s and gonna assume they only share a naming system and Its pretty obvious gonna need more than rebuild kit which is sad. 4t65s are about aswell. this puzzles expencive.
Again thank you for your time
Sorry so long getting back to you. Pretty common problem. Depending on which style snap ring you have on the 2nd drum, you might be able to take a scribe and pop the snap ring out and this will allow you to get it apart. Probably will have ruined your input drum. Yeah they can get expensive quick. Especially nowadays.
I do wonder if the 4 gigabyte file limit size is the problem with the camera as I have no experience or idea of the size of the raw file stored?
kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/289/~/transferring-a-4gb-or-larger-file-to-a-usb-flash-drive-or-memory-card
A free program you can find and download that is brilliant for removable memory testing and formatting and setup is called rufus.
And another one called guiformat is the windows version of FAT32 format program which if IIRC does NTFS just as good and is also brilliant for fixing sketchy formats done by other programs with less intrinsic talents. ATB.
Thanks for this. I think it must be a format problem as I had downloaded the video I had before I left. When I came back the video card was blank and that is when the problem occured. I will check this out, I appreciate it.