Hi I am a little old and not in good health, so sitting at my work bench polishing and sharpening knives takes a lot off my mind. I like Buck knives and have acquired several older knives. What I have discovered is a lot of people don’t know how to sharpen Buck knives, so I have some with a lot of scratches on them. I am the kind of guy that learns from videos, so you have been very helpful. Thanks
Right on brother. I'm in a similar boat. Busted up/disabled veteran, playing around, sanding & polishing knives. Just got 30 Japanese knives. I wanna learn new handle making also.
Ten bucks for having my knives handled and sharpened with your passion is an absolute steal I'd say man. Don't doubt your prices, most knife customers have the mentality of "if i get someone to sharpen my knives when i cant myself, ill pay double if not triple the normal rate just to know my knives are being treated with the same respect i give them myself" Just picked up a dremel for knife maintence and handle making so thanks for the great video & tips!
I've got a couple of good kitchen knives and would be happy to pay for sharpening with this level of care. I've got a tormek, and am capable of doing them myself, but paying someone to do this would be worth it.
To be the devils advocate, its hard to make money with todays cost of living spending this much time on something but it’s good to see people doing it. But if you can establish yourself and build a reputation then people will be lined up out the door for your services if you do it right.
It's just as common as it was in the past. The difference, now, is that few are willing to pay for it. If you're not willing to pay for it, you won't see it all around you.
Dude! Thanks for the Flitz love! 👍👍👀 Sweet job on that Buck! For the record, our paste polish come in between 4000 and 4500 grit. The liquid between 6000 and 6500. Both technically "non-abrasive", but the fact is everything is sort of abrasive. (Paper towels are the worst!!) Glad you're digging the Matte Finish Cleaner!! Keep up the great work!!
Very cool thanks for providing the exact stats I just got 3 more tubes of paste in yesterday I try to have extra as customers sometimes want to buy it but I do love the entire product line have used the wood wax as well on wood knife handles and fire arms and I own the full set of your polishing balls for my drill and the are really awesome on my Ram truck and going to do the Chrome on my boat soon. Thanks for checking out my video. They do sell some cool knife and gun restoration kits with multiple products. The matte finish clean is awesome fellow sharpeners on EDC’s you don’t want shiny-best product I have found.
I glad to have watched this video, I think it is the small things like giving the knife a shine up before returning them to the customer, it is something they probably wouldn’t do themselves and I think they will start thinking about your service when they start looking shabby again.
I've had a Dremel sitting, rarely used, for a long-long time. The more I get into knives and sharpening...considering it as a side-gig, I'm sure glad I kept it around!
Made a lock knife for my father, scratched some of the metal surfaces during the process (new to carpentry) and was looking for a method to remove some of the scratches. I'm sold! Trying this out on the weekend!
I smiled when seeing your video. I was seeing you use the same equipment and attachments that I've been using for over four years and I agree with you as to how easy it is to get a knife looking as best as it can be. Although I haven't used any Flint products but I use Diamond 20.000 grit paste and some one micron My business is Ultra Sharp and I sharpen most anything from Circukar saw and chaisaw blades to and including Hair stylist scissors. I enjoyed wathing your video
Nice I have an updated video on polishing I just did the other week this one is a bit dated and I have added a lot more gear to the polishing table. What state are you in?
@@ALXSHARPEN I hope you've worked on your camera work ... bc you had no clue how much slower you have to show things ... the camera needs time. The way to solve that is to not look at the knife directly, but to look through the camera until you see what you want us to see. It CANNOT WORK the other way.
I do the extras to at no charge too such as oiling the wooden handles. Received a Santoku knife to sharpen today and was scratched which looked awful so went looking on other methods on how to polish better. Thanks for your video. One strong suggestion as I have used a 8" polishing wheel too. I wear Kevlar gloves when polishing a knife on the polishing machine just incase the knife gets caught and jumps wildly :-)
There are two camps when it comes to gloves. Some will say you're crazy to wear gloves polishing and some say it's fine. I leave it up to the person to decide their level of comfort with it. I will use them when I know my fingers will make a lot of contact with it if its a small part but for the most part I don't wear gloves very often and with jewelry buffers that are not needed at all in my opinion. They don't have the power to hurt you like a 6" or 8" buffer can.
Wow ! You have packed a lot of super useful information in this video. As someone just inching my way into the sharpening world, I don't know if I could justify the expense, but know the possibilities if called for. Thanks !!
Just do it a little at a time as my business picked up I added more gear. Now I have a lot but I paid for it all with money from sharpening. It doesn't take log.
These seem like theyre an amazing investment for keeping beautiful blades nice and pristine for long time. Only sharpen my own knives and other coworkers knives but this aould be a nice tool to add to my kit
Flitz, the type in the gray tube like you have, is utterly amazing, it's like magic the way it makes things shiny and glossy, I never dreamed Id be able to get my knives so shiny, it works great just by hand too if you rub it until it starts to dry, I use WD40 to remove the black residue it leaves on things like mother of pearl handles.
Great video and THANK YOU! You just saved me some money, I'm a beginner knifemaker and was about to purchase a variable speed bench grinder to polish metal as my current model isn't variable speed. The model I was gonna get costs @170 and it only turns down to 2000 rpm, that Opavioc polisher looks to be a better way to go! Liked and subbed! 🙂
I have an older combat knife my son got me. I would like to get it looking good because he got it. It has a couple of deep pits in it. How do i get them out without damaging the blade. I'm new to this help please.
So depending on how deep they are you may have to sand them. Next would be 3M Surface Belts. then Radial Disks , then buffers would be my progression. If it has rust on it I really like Evapo Rust first before doing anything to it amzn.to/3ZO6eX7 It's really good at removing rust without causing damage like acids and other methods. I use it a lot in my shop
Thanks for sharing, I have looked at most of those products for finishing knives. Showing us how to use them & the results is very helpful. I am starting to make custom kitchen knives, looking for ways to achieve a commercially viable finish in a reasonable time frame.
i am working on an update I now use two jewelry buffers with them and 3" radials check out this video too ruclips.net/video/G5A5I4j179E/видео.htmlsi=kGhJp8eiCJnWzQHd
Yes thanks I know I have corrected its pronunciation in my more recent videos. Has been mentioned many times…I just can’t help it that I wish it had an N in the name.
I have a recent video showing the same disks on jewelry buffers that I now use they are really awesome. Have a pretty nice collection of radial disk options in my shop.
Thank you for your kindness in answering my questions. If I may can you tell me where you got your bit holder. I looked everywhere and can not find any that large , Thank you again.
Nice this video is from Nov 2022 I now use the the 3” ones a lot on 2 jewelry buffing machines I am working on an updated video. I would love the big one you have but I don’t really have the room right now for any more buffers in the shop. Those are also really expensive but probably last forever-
I've tried those for final polishing of welds and maybe I was too aggressive but they didn't last long. Might try them again for this as they certainly remove metal at a fair rate.
Very common mistake you can’t push hard let the abrasive do the work also make sure your weld isn’t crazy ruff or sharp that should be taken down with sandpaper first keep in mind these are for polishing not sanding use the cheap Chinese 80 grit if you have something ruff but it you get good ones keep them for finishing work
Great video - thank you for making it. Lots of useful info - especially starting at a finer grit and working to a heavier grit on an unknown surface. (wish I knew that one in the past)...
Hello, i like this video review but I was wondering at 19:23 why is it a no no in that direction? I just got started with buffing a knife so.. Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
loved this tutorial; I ordered the dedeco radial abrasives and the first time I used it it burned it all the way down. Not sure if it got too hot but you cleaned with it for a shorter time than you and it just shredded. Any idea why this may have happened?
@@KirbyMorton-p2v to much pressure and probably to much speed you have to let the abrasives do the work if you push hard you will grind them down mine generally last me around two years
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks for the quick reply! Are you using the 4-ply? Also, I have a Cattaraugus hobo I might send your way for a restore. Do I do that through your website?
i use jewelry buffers now with 12 ply or 6 ply on the smaller disks. Not taking mail order stuff at this time since i just moved and still getting the new shop organized and up and running maybe in a 6-8 weeks ill take mail orders i have so much work i don't really need it will see how it pans out the packing stuff just takes a lot of time away from the work i have already coming in daily
Awesome video! This is just what I needed to see. I have gotten into collecting and restoring vintage straight razors. It's a lot of work trying to restore these things by hand. And it really beats up your hands and fingers. I was wondering if there was an easier way to do this with power tools. And your video is perfect because it shows us just how to do that. I have a Dremel and Flitz. All I would need to get are those dental polishing attachments, and a Jeweler's buffing machine. Thank you so much.
Do you sharpen straight razors. I get ask about them every so often but I don’t have any whetstones higher than 8000 so I have never really gotten into them. If you do was just wondering what your process is for sharpening them if you don’t mind sharing
@@ALXSHARPEN Yes. It's pretty easy. Guys usually charge $25 to hone a razor. Just do a search for how to hone or sharpen a straight razor. There are so many good videos on the topic. Guys like Dr. Matt, geofatboy, Lynn Abrams, Robert Ortiz and so many others do a great job of showing you how to do it. I'll see if I can find a good video and post the link here. ruclips.net/video/9xl4w3JrF0s/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
@@ALXSHARPEN usually you set the bevel first with a 1000 or 2000 grit stone and then go through a progression of 4000 to 8000 or 10,000 or 12,000. You can finish on anywhere from 8k to 16k but some guys go even higher to 20k or 30k. And then there's Arkansas stones, coticules, and Japanese natural stones. It's a deep rabbit hole. I suggest watching some of those videos because the guys can tell you how to keep it simple with using like only two different stones. Some guys can get away with only using one stone and changing the grit by creating a slurry with a slurry stone and then gradually diluting that slurry with water to make it finer and using lighter strokes as they finish up. It's a pretty cool process actually. Here's another video. And I posted one above. But there are so many other good ones out there. Just do a RUclips search for how to hone or sharpen a straight razor. ruclips.net/video/GAsAHKsYPg4/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
What would you recommend for the tiniest of scratches? I got a nice folding buck knife for Christmas a few years back and i just noticed a bunch of micro-scratches on it from the where sheath's button rubbed against it. I collect knives and dont intend to use this one, so i want to take off as little metal as i can.
Yes I actually mark the scissors with my laser from my fabric shop that bring me lots of them to save time I use to mark them with a fine sharpie but now I use the laser
Yes Radial disk remove rust or patina beautifully without damaging the actual surface. But if doing good things don't use cheap knock off ones go for Dedeco or 3m I have links in the description for important finish work I only the better ones. I use the cheap ones on garden tools. Also if removing just Patina I would work high grit to low to see where you can remove it without having to do more polishing than necessary then work back up through your grits
Thanks so much for the quick reply! I really enjoyed your video as it taught me new methods other than the hand sanding means I’ve been using. I have the dremel tool and the cheaper attachments already but am going to get the dedesco ones now as per your advice! Have a great day!
@@jeremyjlai89 there really great and don’t shy from the cheaper ones for rust removal I actually just filmed some today to show what they can do on some very rusty hedgers but for finishing and good knives I use the good ones I also just added some 3 inch ones going to show on a new video but they are so much better than wire wheels or scotch Brite and make almost no mess when polishing. I only use little wire wheels now for bur removal of serrations.
This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for. I have your Dremel, a bit surprised you don't tighten down your tool with the Dremel wrench.. I had Just ordered green polishing compound to use with my Dremel polishing wheels to follow with jewellers rouge. I already just tried the red rouge and although it worked on my copper pan, it isn't working on my Sam Butler stainless steel salesman knife from around a hundred years ago. This thing is just unususl..About four inches long, over an inch wide, has a slot on the side to release a big clipper that you might clip vines with, plus it has two blades. Neither blade is normal either. So, embedded in the outside steel is a lot of text. But around that text is all scratches. What the heck is scratching that outer area that's harder than steel.. so, looking forward to trying your Chinese wheels. With water!
Thanks for this. Extremely new to polishing but have a folding knife with a Vanadis steel blade that needs some scratches removed. Would the 220 radial be the starting point on that as well?
I have a video i am working on a polishing job now that will help you. It will be out soon it the Puma White Hunter Knife I am polishing. To answer you it's hard to say without seeing it depend on how deep the scratches are. Some things are to deep for radial disc and need sand paper or 3M Scotch Brite Belts
@@ALXSHARPENappreciate the reply. The scratches aren’t deep at all, just annoying as the knife was band new. Scrubbing stains off of the knife with an abrasive sponge left scratches. Will stay tuned for your vid 🙏
Could I impose and ask what disk and speed would work best for polishing aluminum window framing on a classic trailer I'm restoring? Thanks in advance. I presume Flitz would work well once I get the 60 year old corrosion removed.
I have used my 6 ply disk to restore a scratched sink but for most things it’s best to go through the progression of 80-120-220-400-3 micron- 1 micron I am mostly working with stainless steel and not aluminum so I can’t really say for sure but for knives if I’m just doing a general appearance clean up 220 and 400 are usually very good for not having to go through the entire process There are also some very good larger machines for fixing stainless steel but not sure what they would do on aluminum
This is a great video! Where do you get your mandrels for the Dedeco 6-ply discs that have a 1/8" shank? The one I bought doesn't allow for the thickness of the disc.
Amazon check my store for sharpeners on my website I have them in there as well as the replacement screws you need to swap out of the mandrel alxsharpen.com
@@ALXSHARPEN Man I would love to see you do a restoration video on an old vintage straight razor. I can provide the razor if need be. Just looking for a good tutorial for the rest of us amateur restorers that are doing this as a side hobby. Love your video. It's one of the best I've seen, even though it is for knives and not straight razors.
so from what i see they must have sold out of the set but you can get the 6ply individually and they currently have a 3 ply set. I like the 6 much better or the jewelry buffer ones are my current favorite amzn.to/3S3JLDX
Many videos on it I have a category for polishing you may like this one ruclips.net/video/N4P-9uPFGC0/видео.html and also look for the Puma White hunter video in those I fix the scratch pattern and finish
Agree much better but the Chinese are good for removing rust from things like garden tools I like the 80 dark green and 220 red for that but for knives I use all Dedeco disk also the Chinese don't come any bigger than 1 inch
Hi! Thanks for video! Is it not difficutl to get an even finish with dremel? Especially on a kitchen knife? What is your take on that? Appreciate your input!
It's definitely harder if you watch my more recent video updates you will see I now use jewelry buffers with 3" radial disk for most of the finish work but the Dremel or Foredom tool are still very helpful on hard to hit areas like the bottom of bolsters. I also set a new axe handle the other day on an old Collins Axe and the Foredom Tool carving bits saved me a lot of time sizing and shaping the axe handle.
Will the Dedeco mandrels fit into most dremels? Please help, do not want to purchase these expensive kits if they don’t fit it into my Dremel. Thanks in advance.
yes if you go to my website under ALXSHARPEN.com under the "For Sharpeners" section I have sourced all the parts and things you need to put them on a dremel all of the 2" and smaller work with the dremels and the screws I have listed you do have to change out the screw in the mandrels I have listed. Also go watch my more updated video on polishing it also has the link to my store in the description ruclips.net/video/wB5GOHN4hKs/видео.htmlsi=IA6rN01Q0Q7LKa8f
nice...i have a knife coming with a few blems on the blade that i need to figure out how to fix...this might be it!...im seriously considering that 15$ set you have listed(its so cheap why not lol)...do you notice the start/stop spots at all? i realize this isnt necessarily for a show finish...
I bought the 2 Inch TC 6-PLY Radial Bristle Disc and got Gyros Stainless Steel Mandrel, 1/8" Shank, Fits 1/4" Arbor Hole but the screw isn't long enough did you have to match up the treads and get a longer screw ? Or did I get the wrong mandrels for a dremel ? Thanks for any help.
I think they could I know they can remove makers marks and logos from kitchen knives I have also removed black knife finish from knives that got scratch up and the owner wanted it taken off, but I'm not sure if those logos are put on via laser or some other process. I have removed paint with them also so they are an effective abbrasive that's not like anything else out there. I just don't know enough about laser logos to say 100 percent yes
My understanding is that the 2" wheels take a 1/4" shank and I'm wondering how you are using that with your Dremel since it only takes 1/8" shank? I'm asking because I love the video and want to do the same and I also have a Dremel. Thank you.
Check out my new video on handle restoration in the description I list the arbors at the top of the products I have a link to them. They have 1/8 shanks but the screws they come with are to small in length just replace it with a longer screws and your good to go on Dremels with the 2” discs I’m pretty sure the screw is metric but I had no problem finding what I needed at the hardware store it needs to be almost 1inch in length and I think it’s a 5.5 or 5.95mm which is really close to 1/4 inch so that’s how I get them to work it’s a common size and thread and you can definitely get them at most hardware stores
I was given an old Randall from the early 1970s that has some very tiny pock marks along the length of the blade. Would this process work for those or is this process more appropriate for scratches? Thank you
Definitely best for scratches radial disk don’t remove any significant material they are for polishing they won’t work great for pocks or even deep scratches
Well they go as high as 1 micron and have seen some that claim 2000 grit to get chrome or mirror finish you will want to hit it with a buffer they come very close but not perfect mirror really great for brushed high finish like busters on knives or Western Knives. I was doing a high polished Shun this would not be my final step I would hit a buffer as well.
Well it can be the grain of the steel but can also be the grain of the abrasive used to cut the steel or grind a bevel that can leave a distinct scratch pattern different than the grain of the steel
@@ALXSHARPEN okay wait... So the abrasive has no grain it creates a pattern of scratches BUT that's not grain by any definition I've ever heard or seen. Can we agree that the "Grain" is the pattern created by the elements in the object in this case the knife blade... But "scratch pattern" Isn't hasn't ever been never will be "grain" so please stop saying that it makes it sound like you don't know what you're talking about and I really appreciate the work you do but terms matter
@@rhino67 @Raging_Rhino I did not make up a new term "Scratch Pattern" is the pattern left behind on the metal by an abrasive. Grain is the pattern of the metal. When we talk about bevels and the cut lines caused by the abrasives used like diamond or CBN of stone we refer to that pattern left behind as "Scratch Pattern" and these Radial Disk can be used to fix scratches in either the grain or the scratch pattern. For example I may say don't go up in grit until the previous scratch pattern is completely removed. So grain in one thing and scratch pattern is another.
I recommend not using any gloves even when buffing on the big wheel. According to people in the know, it's safer just to go without so that it doesn't aid in getting your hand/arm/torso/face sucked into that whirly dream of spinning death. Haha :) good video
yeah it's one that's debated a lot I will only use leather gloves if its a small thing I know is going to burn my fingers because I have to get really close
No but you do need to be careful around some types of logos as you can take some off if you're not careful or make them less visible I try to stay away from any logo or makers marks unless the customer wants it removed.
I put links in the description for the large disk I use it’s Dedeco SunBurst 2”they are a subsidiary of 3M for the small disk I mostly use Chinese from Amazon the link I provided is one that has 2500 grit many others stop at 1000 I have had good experience with those and do not buy name brand of 3M or Dedeco for the small disks
Hi I am a little old and not in good health, so sitting at my work bench polishing and sharpening knives takes a lot off my mind. I like Buck knives and have acquired several older knives. What I have discovered is a lot of people don’t know how to sharpen Buck knives, so I have some with a lot of scratches on them. I am the kind of guy that learns from videos, so you have been very helpful. Thanks
Hoping you will have the honor of passing your skills down to the next generation ❤
What methods do you use for sharpen Bucks and what do you see people doing wrong?
Wish you nothing but good health!
BLESS your heart do you know LORD JESUS CHRIST as your own personal savior and LORD of your life
Right on brother. I'm in a similar boat. Busted up/disabled veteran, playing around, sanding & polishing knives. Just got 30 Japanese knives. I wanna learn new handle making also.
Ten bucks for having my knives handled and sharpened with your passion is an absolute steal I'd say man. Don't doubt your prices, most knife customers have the mentality of "if i get someone to sharpen my knives when i cant myself, ill pay double if not triple the normal rate just to know my knives are being treated with the same respect i give them myself"
Just picked up a dremel for knife maintence and handle making so thanks for the great video & tips!
I agree 100%. It’s a totally fair price
I've got a couple of good kitchen knives and would be happy to pay for sharpening with this level of care.
I've got a tormek, and am capable of doing them myself, but paying someone to do this would be worth it.
Professionalism and dedication, rare these days.
To be the devils advocate, its hard to make money with todays cost of living spending this much time on something but it’s good to see people doing it. But if you can establish yourself and build a reputation then people will be lined up out the door for your services if you do it right.
It's just as common as it was in the past.
The difference, now, is that few are willing to pay for it. If you're not willing to pay for it, you won't see it all around you.
Dude! Thanks for the Flitz love! 👍👍👀 Sweet job on that Buck! For the record, our paste polish come in between 4000 and 4500 grit. The liquid between 6000 and 6500. Both technically "non-abrasive", but the fact is everything is sort of abrasive. (Paper towels are the worst!!) Glad you're digging the Matte Finish Cleaner!! Keep up the great work!!
Very cool thanks for providing the exact stats I just got 3 more tubes of paste in yesterday I try to have extra as customers sometimes want to buy it but I do love the entire product line have used the wood wax as well on wood knife handles and fire arms and I own the full set of your polishing balls for my drill and the are really awesome on my Ram truck and going to do the Chrome on my boat soon. Thanks for checking out my video. They do sell some cool knife and gun restoration kits with multiple products. The matte finish clean is awesome fellow sharpeners on EDC’s you don’t want shiny-best product I have found.
@@ALXSHARPEN gray thanks. For a satin finish, what grit would you use?
@@marcn8750 I would say No higher than 400 the 220 is probably perfect but also depends on the metal
@@ALXSHARPENThankyou for sharing. What brand do you use to polish you ram truck?
"Flitz" is my go-to, too.
Recently been using a tube while conserving an 1864 Civil War Cavalry sabre. Good stuff!
I glad to have watched this video, I think it is the small things like giving the knife a shine up before returning them to the customer, it is something they probably wouldn’t do themselves and I think they will start thinking about your service when they start looking shabby again.
I have seen these in my Dremel set for years and never used them because I had no idea what they were for 😅 thank you for this.
In this ocean of "how to polish" videos you nailed it man... Excellent tips... Thank You and keep up the good work..!
thanks glad you liked it
I've had a Dremel sitting, rarely used, for a long-long time. The more I get into knives and sharpening...considering it as a side-gig, I'm sure glad I kept it around!
they are helpful
Made a lock knife for my father, scratched some of the metal surfaces during the process (new to carpentry) and was looking for a method to remove some of the scratches. I'm sold! Trying this out on the weekend!
just be patient work through your grit progressions another good way is Scotch Brite belts on a 1x30 if you have really bad scratches to get out.
I smiled when seeing your video. I was seeing you use the same equipment and attachments that I've been using for over four years and I agree with you as to how easy it is to get a knife looking as best as it can be. Although I haven't used any Flint products but I use Diamond 20.000 grit paste and some one micron My business is Ultra Sharp and I sharpen most anything from Circukar saw and chaisaw blades to and including Hair stylist scissors. I enjoyed wathing your video
Nice I have an updated video on polishing I just did the other week this one is a bit dated and I have added a lot more gear to the polishing table. What state are you in?
@@ALXSHARPEN I hope you've worked on your camera work ... bc you had no clue how much slower you have to show things ... the camera needs time. The way to solve that is to not look at the knife directly, but to look through the camera until you see what you want us to see. It CANNOT WORK the other way.
I do the extras to at no charge too such as oiling the wooden handles.
Received a Santoku knife to sharpen today and was scratched which looked awful so went looking on other methods on how to polish better. Thanks for your video. One strong suggestion as I have used a 8" polishing wheel too.
I wear Kevlar gloves when polishing a knife on the polishing machine just incase the knife gets caught and jumps wildly :-)
There are two camps when it comes to gloves. Some will say you're crazy to wear gloves polishing and some say it's fine. I leave it up to the person to decide their level of comfort with it. I will use them when I know my fingers will make a lot of contact with it if its a small part but for the most part I don't wear gloves very often and with jewelry buffers that are not needed at all in my opinion. They don't have the power to hurt you like a 6" or 8" buffer can.
Wow ! You have packed a lot of super useful information in this video. As someone just inching my way into the sharpening world, I don't know if I could justify the expense, but know the possibilities if called for. Thanks !!
Just do it a little at a time as my business picked up I added more gear. Now I have a lot but I paid for it all with money from sharpening. It doesn't take log.
These seem like theyre an amazing investment for keeping beautiful blades nice and pristine for long time. Only sharpen my own knives and other coworkers knives but this aould be a nice tool to add to my kit
Yes they are!
Thank you so much for this video AND for the links! Outstanding!!!
You're very welcome!
Flitz, the type in the gray tube like you have, is utterly amazing, it's like magic the way it makes things shiny and glossy, I never dreamed Id be able to get my knives so shiny, it works great just by hand too if you rub it until it starts to dry, I use WD40 to remove the black residue it leaves on things like mother of pearl handles.
Awesome never tried the WD40 to remove the residue but I’m definitely going to try it now thanks for the Tip👍🔪
Great video and THANK YOU! You just saved me some money, I'm a beginner knifemaker and was about to purchase a variable speed bench grinder to polish metal as my current model isn't variable speed. The model I was gonna get costs @170 and it only turns down to 2000 rpm, that Opavioc polisher looks to be a better way to go! Liked and subbed! 🙂
how are you learning to become a knifemaker?
I have an older combat knife my son got me. I would like to get it looking good because he got it. It has a couple of deep pits in it. How do i get them out without damaging the blade. I'm new to this help please.
So depending on how deep they are you may have to sand them. Next would be 3M Surface Belts. then Radial Disks , then buffers would be my progression. If it has rust on it I really like Evapo Rust first before doing anything to it amzn.to/3ZO6eX7 It's really good at removing rust without causing damage like acids and other methods. I use it a lot in my shop
Thanks for sharing, I have looked at most of those products for finishing knives. Showing us how to use them & the results is very helpful. I am starting to make custom kitchen knives, looking for ways to achieve a commercially viable finish in a reasonable time frame.
incredible content again... as usual!!!
Thanks... I'm going to try these practices.
Best of luck!
Thanks for sharing these tips, this very helpful and priceless information.
no problem thank you for watching it
Wow great video I have wore out bags of steel wool and I have two dremel tools. Going to try your way thanks
i am working on an update I now use two jewelry buffers with them and 3" radials check out this video too ruclips.net/video/G5A5I4j179E/видео.htmlsi=kGhJp8eiCJnWzQHd
Thank you for sharing all of the information.
A Very Minor Detail.
"FLITZ" does not contain an "N".
Yes thanks I know I have corrected its pronunciation in my more recent videos. Has been mentioned many times…I just can’t help it that I wish it had an N in the name.
@@ALXSHARPEN
I do appreciate you sharing your expertise 🙂👍
Great information learned a lot cheers.
I have a recent video showing the same disks on jewelry buffers that I now use they are really awesome. Have a pretty nice collection of radial disk options in my shop.
This is a great video. I get streaks when I polish with a dremmell type tool. Do these type eliminate that problem?
I don't charge for the extra work I do, I just charge twice as much as most people. LOL. Besides that nice vid good info, pride of workmanship!
Thank you for your kindness in answering my questions. If I may can you tell me where you got your bit holder. I looked everywhere and can not find any that large
, Thank you again.
amzn.to/42nCEt5
I get the same type of wheel but in 6in. They will put a factory scratch patern on your blade in seconds. Good info. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Nice this video is from Nov 2022 I now use the the 3” ones a lot on 2 jewelry buffing machines I am working on an updated video. I would love the big one you have but I don’t really have the room right now for any more buffers in the shop. Those are also really expensive but probably last forever-
Thanks for sharing
Really enjoyed the info.
I've tried those for final polishing of welds and maybe I was too aggressive but they didn't last long. Might try them again for this as they certainly remove metal at a fair rate.
Very common mistake you can’t push hard let the abrasive do the work also make sure your weld isn’t crazy ruff or sharp that should be taken down with sandpaper first keep in mind these are for polishing not sanding use the cheap Chinese 80 grit if you have something ruff but it you get good ones keep them for finishing work
excellent video thanks for sharing
Thank-you that is so helpful!
Great service
Damn good video sir,
I too love using Flintz. Use it a lot on my Falkniven knives and other stainless knives. Thank you for sharing.
it's great polish
Great video - thank you for making it. Lots of useful info - especially starting at a finer grit and working to a heavier grit on an unknown surface. (wish I knew that one in the past)...
Glad it was helpful!
Hello, i like this video review but I was wondering at 19:23 why is it a no no in that direction?
I just got started with buffing a knife so..
Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
You can catch the blade edge and it will throw the knife across the room
Great video. Thank you!
Thank you
loved this tutorial; I ordered the dedeco radial abrasives and the first time I used it it burned it all the way down. Not sure if it got too hot but you cleaned with it for a shorter time than you and it just shredded. Any idea why this may have happened?
@@KirbyMorton-p2v to much pressure and probably to much speed you have to let the abrasives do the work if you push hard you will grind them down mine generally last me around two years
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks for the quick reply! Are you using the 4-ply? Also, I have a Cattaraugus hobo I might send your way for a restore. Do I do that through your website?
i use jewelry buffers now with 12 ply or 6 ply on the smaller disks. Not taking mail order stuff at this time since i just moved and still getting the new shop organized and up and running maybe in a 6-8 weeks ill take mail orders i have so much work i don't really need it will see how it pans out the packing stuff just takes a lot of time away from the work i have already coming in daily
Awesome video! This is just what I needed to see. I have gotten into collecting and restoring vintage straight razors. It's a lot of work trying to restore these things by hand. And it really beats up your hands and fingers. I was wondering if there was an easier way to do this with power tools. And your video is perfect because it shows us just how to do that. I have a Dremel and Flitz. All I would need to get are those dental polishing attachments, and a Jeweler's buffing machine. Thank you so much.
Do you sharpen straight razors. I get ask about them every so often but I don’t have any whetstones higher than 8000 so I have never really gotten into them. If you do was just wondering what your process is for sharpening them if you don’t mind sharing
@@ALXSHARPEN Yes. It's pretty easy. Guys usually charge $25 to hone a razor. Just do a search for how to hone or sharpen a straight razor. There are so many good videos on the topic. Guys like Dr. Matt, geofatboy, Lynn Abrams, Robert Ortiz and so many others do a great job of showing you how to do it. I'll see if I can find a good video and post the link here.
ruclips.net/video/9xl4w3JrF0s/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
@@trueblu8 what grit stone is the highest you use for razors?
@@ALXSHARPEN usually you set the bevel first with a 1000 or 2000 grit stone and then go through a progression of 4000 to 8000 or 10,000 or 12,000. You can finish on anywhere from 8k to 16k but some guys go even higher to 20k or 30k. And then there's Arkansas stones, coticules, and Japanese natural stones. It's a deep rabbit hole. I suggest watching some of those videos because the guys can tell you how to keep it simple with using like only two different stones. Some guys can get away with only using one stone and changing the grit by creating a slurry with a slurry stone and then gradually diluting that slurry with water to make it finer and using lighter strokes as they finish up. It's a pretty cool process actually. Here's another video. And I posted one above. But there are so many other good ones out there. Just do a RUclips search for how to hone or sharpen a straight razor.
ruclips.net/video/GAsAHKsYPg4/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
@@ALXSHARPEN ruclips.net/video/xQ7LUOhvh_M/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Do you, or have you, ever used any Kraytex wheels for light cutting/reshaping, or polishing work?
Thank you.
Sincerely,
Mark
no i have not
thank you for sharing. good job.
no problem
Thanks for the Flitz tip ;
I use it on brass … 🙂
You did a good polish on the Win knife but the Winchester logo on the blade was also erased ? …
What would you recommend for the tiniest of scratches? I got a nice folding buck knife for Christmas a few years back and i just noticed a bunch of micro-scratches on it from the where sheath's button rubbed against it. I collect knives and dont intend to use this one, so i want to take off as little metal as i can.
The dental radial disk remove almost no metal 220 is a great place to start on a buck
Paul, do you ever mark a knife or shears with the primary bevel angle? I ask because it would save time at the next sharpening.
Yes I actually mark the scissors with my laser from my fabric shop that bring me lots of them to save time I use to mark them with a fine sharpie but now I use the laser
I just need to know what mandrel you are using and where to get it so I can use those sweet 2" wheels on my Dremel:)
Good stuff, thanks!
Are any of these attachments recommended for removing light surface rust or patina?
Yes Radial disk remove rust or patina beautifully without damaging the actual surface. But if doing good things don't use cheap knock off ones go for Dedeco or 3m I have links in the description for important finish work I only the better ones. I use the cheap ones on garden tools. Also if removing just Patina I would work high grit to low to see where you can remove it without having to do more polishing than necessary then work back up through your grits
Thanks so much for the quick reply! I really enjoyed your video as it taught me new methods other than the hand sanding means I’ve been using. I have the dremel tool and the cheaper attachments already but am going to get the dedesco ones now as per your advice! Have a great day!
@@jeremyjlai89 there really great and don’t shy from the cheaper ones for rust removal I actually just filmed some today to show what they can do on some very rusty hedgers but for finishing and good knives I use the good ones I also just added some 3 inch ones going to show on a new video but they are so much better than wire wheels or scotch Brite and make almost no mess when polishing. I only use little wire wheels now for bur removal of serrations.
This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for. I have your Dremel, a bit surprised you don't tighten down your tool with the Dremel wrench..
I had Just ordered green polishing compound to use with my Dremel polishing wheels to follow with jewellers rouge. I already just tried the red rouge and although it worked on my copper pan, it isn't working on my Sam Butler stainless steel salesman knife from around a hundred years ago. This thing is just unususl..About four inches long, over an inch wide, has a slot on the side to release a big clipper that you might clip vines with, plus it has two blades. Neither blade is normal either. So, embedded in the outside steel is a lot of text. But around that text is all scratches. What the heck is scratching that outer area that's harder than steel.. so, looking forward to trying your Chinese wheels. With water!
@@sclogse1 be sure to check out some of my newest polishing videos as well this one is two years old.
At 2:22 you show the 2 inch radial disk with a 1/4 inch arbor hole. Where do you get the mandrels that fit a 1/8 Dremel?
amzn.to/3A4T3Fj
@@ALXSHARPEN Wow, thanks I've been hunting all over for that. Great video by the way!
you will need to replace the screw on top with a longer screw needs to be 3/4 inch in thread length pretty sure this is what you need amzn.to/41u686K
@@ALXSHARPEN Ordered, thanks.
Thanks for this. Extremely new to polishing but have a folding knife with a Vanadis steel blade that needs some scratches removed. Would the 220 radial be the starting point on that as well?
I have a video i am working on a polishing job now that will help you. It will be out soon it the Puma White Hunter Knife I am polishing. To answer you it's hard to say without seeing it depend on how deep the scratches are. Some things are to deep for radial disc and need sand paper or 3M Scotch Brite Belts
@@ALXSHARPENappreciate the reply. The scratches aren’t deep at all, just annoying as the knife was band new. Scrubbing stains off of the knife with an abrasive sponge left scratches. Will stay tuned for your vid 🙏
Just so people know what to look for… the product is FLITZ, there is no “N”. Not FLINTZ. Great video, nice work!
Hi....the silver tiered drill holder in the top of your video picture. What make/model is it ? And where can I get one from ?
amzn.to/3PSIr3T
Could I impose and ask what disk and speed would work best for polishing aluminum window framing on a classic trailer I'm restoring? Thanks in advance. I presume Flitz would work well once I get the 60 year old corrosion removed.
I have used my 6 ply disk to restore a scratched sink but for most things it’s best to go through the progression of 80-120-220-400-3 micron- 1 micron I am mostly working with stainless steel and not aluminum so I can’t really say for sure but for knives if I’m just doing a general appearance clean up 220 and 400 are usually very good for not having to go through the entire process There are also some very good larger machines for fixing stainless steel but not sure what they would do on aluminum
This is a great video! Where do you get your mandrels for the Dedeco 6-ply discs that have a 1/8" shank? The one I bought doesn't allow for the thickness of the disc.
Amazon check my store for sharpeners on my website I have them in there as well as the replacement screws you need to swap out of the mandrel alxsharpen.com
Started watching as I was sharpening my wife Winchester and realized it's the same you have,lol
Flitz will only remove blue from a gun if it was COLD blue. It won't bother anything that was hot blued.
good info to know
@@ALXSHARPEN it's also a good way to check if a gun has been "touched up."
Do you ever restore vintage straight razors? I imagine it would be similar to knives but a little more delicate.
I have sharpened a few but have not restored any vintage razors
@@ALXSHARPEN Man I would love to see you do a restoration video on an old vintage straight razor. I can provide the razor if need be. Just looking for a good tutorial for the rest of us amateur restorers that are doing this as a side hobby. Love your video. It's one of the best I've seen, even though it is for knives and not straight razors.
Anyone have a link for sanders ?
what sander do you mean
Thank you.
Sorry, but I could not find the set of 6 two inch 6ply on the Amazon. What else do I need for putting on my Foredom. Thank you
so from what i see they must have sold out of the set but you can get the 6ply individually and they currently have a 3 ply set. I like the 6 much better or the jewelry buffer ones are my current favorite amzn.to/3S3JLDX
be sure to watch this one I now use two jewelry buffing machines with radial disks ruclips.net/video/G5A5I4j179E/видео.htmlsi=dZ-8B9bRfQeG7w2w
I just saw this video and im sortof familiar with your bench top polisher,but where do you purchase the 4" wheels. Thank you
www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
scroll to down I have links to almost everything
Flitz will only remove cold blue collectors use it to find parts that are not original to a collectible firearm when they are purchasing at gun shows.
Any tips on fixing the scratch pattern/grain(?) of the blade?
Many videos on it I have a category for polishing you may like this one ruclips.net/video/N4P-9uPFGC0/видео.html and also look for the Puma White hunter video in those I fix the scratch pattern and finish
Thank you
You're welcome
AWESOME STUFF !!!!
Thanks!!
Dedeco radial disc abrasives are great and better than the Chinese brands.
Agree much better but the Chinese are good for removing rust from things like garden tools I like the 80 dark green and 220 red for that but for knives I use all Dedeco disk also the Chinese don't come any bigger than 1 inch
How do I get in touch with you to mirror my blades?
Well in a machine shop that type of sanding disc is called a flap wheel.
In Japan they charge $5000 for this service and use rocks.
Maybe I should move to Japan
Rocks 😂👌
Hi! Thanks for video! Is it not difficutl to get an even finish with dremel? Especially on a kitchen knife? What is your take on that? Appreciate your input!
It's definitely harder if you watch my more recent video updates you will see I now use jewelry buffers with 3" radial disk for most of the finish work but the Dremel or Foredom tool are still very helpful on hard to hit areas like the bottom of bolsters. I also set a new axe handle the other day on an old Collins Axe and the Foredom Tool carving bits saved me a lot of time sizing and shaping the axe handle.
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks! Where do you buy the 80grit and the other buffer wheels? Could not find them but maybe I missed them?
Will the Dedeco mandrels fit into most dremels? Please help, do not want to purchase these expensive kits if they don’t fit it into my Dremel. Thanks in advance.
yes if you go to my website under ALXSHARPEN.com under the "For Sharpeners" section I have sourced all the parts and things you need to put them on a dremel all of the 2" and smaller work with the dremels and the screws I have listed you do have to change out the screw in the mandrels I have listed. Also go watch my more updated video on polishing it also has the link to my store in the description ruclips.net/video/wB5GOHN4hKs/видео.htmlsi=IA6rN01Q0Q7LKa8f
nice...i have a knife coming with a few blems on the blade that i need to figure out how to fix...this might be it!...im seriously considering that 15$ set you have listed(its so cheap why not lol)...do you notice the start/stop spots at all? i realize this isnt necessarily for a show finish...
Watch my most updated video’s on my polishing this is the oldest I have some even better methods
enjoy watching the towel on the last 5 minutes.😂
I bought the 2 Inch TC 6-PLY Radial Bristle Disc and got Gyros Stainless Steel Mandrel, 1/8" Shank, Fits 1/4" Arbor Hole but the screw isn't long enough did you have to match up the treads and get a longer screw ? Or did I get the wrong mandrels for a dremel ? Thanks for any help.
I had to add longer screws from the hardware store.
Hi- would these discs be able to polish out laser-etching on kitchen knife blades?
I think they could I know they can remove makers marks and logos from kitchen knives I have also removed black knife finish from knives that got scratch up and the owner wanted it taken off, but I'm not sure if those logos are put on via laser or some other process. I have removed paint with them also so they are an effective abbrasive that's not like anything else out there. I just don't know enough about laser logos to say 100 percent yes
My understanding is that the 2" wheels take a 1/4" shank and I'm wondering how you are using that with your Dremel since it only takes 1/8" shank? I'm asking because I love the video and want to do the same and I also have a Dremel. Thank you.
Check out my new video on handle restoration in the description I list the arbors at the top of the products I have a link to them. They have 1/8 shanks but the screws they come with are to small in length just replace it with a longer screws and your good to go on Dremels with the 2” discs I’m pretty sure the screw is metric but I had no problem finding what I needed at the hardware store it needs to be almost 1inch in length and I think it’s a 5.5 or 5.95mm which is really close to 1/4 inch so that’s how I get them to work it’s a common size and thread and you can definitely get them at most hardware stores
@@ALXSHARPEN Thank you! I will check out the vid and try to mimic the setup. I'm a knife collector so this kind of thing excite me lol.
How would I polish an ivory knife handle?
I haven't every worked with ivory
which flitz product gives the matte finish?
amzn.to/3AQiuxV
Hello, where can I buy these large sanding felts? Is there a brand name?
Can you give me a time in the video not sure what you are referring to
@@ALXSHARPEN 2:15Where can I get the large felts in minute size or what is the brand?😊
Just wondering How to remove scratches on a polypropelene handle ?
Do you sharpen knives via USPS? I have a blade I'd like a mirrored bevel on.
So another words you do charge them for the polishing.
Very interesting!
I was given an old Randall from the early 1970s that has some very tiny pock marks along the length of the blade. Would this process work for those or is this process more appropriate for scratches? Thank you
Definitely best for scratches radial disk don’t remove any significant material they are for polishing they won’t work great for pocks or even deep scratches
@@ALXSHARPEN Thank you!
Suppose these should put a chrome like finish on gun parts?
Well they go as high as 1 micron and have seen some that claim 2000 grit to get chrome or mirror finish you will want to hit it with a buffer they come very close but not perfect mirror really great for brushed high finish like busters on knives or Western Knives. I was doing a high polished Shun this would not be my final step I would hit a buffer as well.
Why are you using Lysol instead of plain water?
It cleans the knife and also helps keep the radial disk clean and works a little better than just water
Wow, very helpful, New Subscriber, Thank You …
By "scratch pattern" are you talking about the grain of the steel?
Well it can be the grain of the steel but can also be the grain of the abrasive used to cut the steel or grind a bevel that can leave a distinct scratch pattern different than the grain of the steel
@@ALXSHARPEN okay wait... So the abrasive has no grain it creates a pattern of scratches BUT that's not grain by any definition I've ever heard or seen. Can we agree that the "Grain" is the pattern created by the elements in the object in this case the knife blade... But "scratch pattern" Isn't hasn't ever been never will be "grain" so please stop saying that it makes it sound like you don't know what you're talking about and I really appreciate the work you do but terms matter
@@rhino67 @Raging_Rhino I did not make up a new term "Scratch Pattern" is the pattern left behind on the metal by an abrasive. Grain is the pattern of the metal. When we talk about bevels and the cut lines caused by the abrasives used like diamond or CBN of stone we refer to that pattern left behind as "Scratch Pattern" and these Radial Disk can be used to fix scratches in either the grain or the scratch pattern. For example I may say don't go up in grit until the previous scratch pattern is completely removed. So grain in one thing and scratch pattern is another.
Do you sharpen swords, manchettes and Katanas? If so what is your price range?
I don't like to do swords I send them to a Guy I know who does them- Machettes yes Katanas should go to an expert in Japanese Swords
Was wondering the same - like a civil war sabre...
I recommend not using any gloves even when buffing on the big wheel. According to people in the know, it's safer just to go without so that it doesn't aid in getting your hand/arm/torso/face sucked into that whirly dream of spinning death. Haha :) good video
yeah it's one that's debated a lot I will only use leather gloves if its a small thing I know is going to burn my fingers because I have to get really close
That dark colored block on your work station. Is that linoleum? From a hobby store? TIA.
No it's jewler's block great for lots of things you can get them on Amazon amzn.to/3KgPq5t
13:42 Flitz ✨
Quickly but they do take some time.
Hey man, is there a way to chat with you on the phone?
I sometimes answer the phone if I think it's not a spam call LOL
Can I ship my knives to you for sharpening?
yes many people do ALXSHARPEN.COM
Thank you! And please don’t pay attention to bitter mo fos.
did you remove the logo?🙈
No but you do need to be careful around some types of logos as you can take some off if you're not careful or make them less visible I try to stay away from any logo or makers marks unless the customer wants it removed.
Not trying to be a “Karen” but I never saw the logo after 10:00 min mark
@@ALXSHARPEN good point
Awesome
Thanks
what size arbor?
What is the name of the abrasive wheel company great video
I put links in the description for the large disk I use it’s Dedeco SunBurst 2”they are a subsidiary of 3M for the small disk I mostly use Chinese from Amazon the link I provided is one that has 2500 grit many others stop at 1000 I have had good experience with those and do not buy name brand of 3M or Dedeco for the small disks