Distributor Advances (Part 2) - Vacuum & Mechanical Explained
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- Опубликовано: 17 фев 2011
- How Distributor Advances work. This video goes inside the distributor to show you how vacuum on the advance unit affect the mechanics inside the distributor. Mechanical advances are also covered showing the weights that get "thrown" out when RPM is increase.
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This should be the gold standard of Automotive explanation. Subbed!
Moss has some of the best videos!
Love this video, this guided me how to set my timing and what happens on my distributor in the inside while it's running... Thanks Moss Guy! I love all your videos...
This video is pure gold! Thanks.
great video. thankyou. your clear and simple explanations are the best
What a great video and explanation! Thank you very much.
thanks for the great video, very helpful for me to understand how the distributor advance's the timing :) keep up the good work.
Excellent. Top shelf tutorial. Thank you
Excellent video!!!
Great video. Thank you.
If there is a mechanical advance with the springs, why is the vacuum combined with it? It was not clear to me how they work together. It was difficult to see inside the distributor, it seems like this video could use better illumination and/or magnification to see these details. I am not complaining just trying to add some constructive thoughts Your videos are a great resource and the concepts are explained and vocalized with great clarity. keep up the good work it is much appreciated !
Thank you sooo much!!
Wow, great video! Thanks
Thanks for the info...! Really Appreciated!!
Great video. Thank you for sharing. I always thought they ran off magic and rainbows.
great great explain
Really helpful. Thank You
Thank You! and thanks to this video, I have found the problem in my dizzy. THE ENTIRE BREAKER PLATE'S MAIN BEARING IS SHOT!
terrific information in all your videos. I can't really imagine how I'd be able to see the mechanical advance working when I'm revving the car though, as I'd have to put the distributor cap on for that, blocking my sight. Or am I missing something there?
Our Toyota 5k engine stalls after few seconds. At first I thought it was a bad fuel pump so I changed it but issue still the same. I already cleaned the carb, replaced contact point and spark plugs. I found out that the vacuum advancer doesn't work anymore. I know that there could be other possible cause but could a vacuum advancer be a cause for an engine to stall? At idle, engine runs for few sec, giving it some revs won't help. Thanks for the video.
exactly what I was looking for. I hope I can clean it instead or replacing the distributor. I have no recoil and a ton of play in the rotor shaft :/
Thank you
Moss Motors, Ltd. Hello.... I have an issue. I have a 61 Lincoln and when she's cold and on the highway she runs great.. However, once the engine bay/engine warms up (I'm in Texas by the way), when I come to a stop and then accelerate it will stall.. If I don't gently push the accelerator it will stall.. Could this be a vacuum advance issue? MEchanical pump and carb have recently been rebuilt
very good thanks
hi again, can i check the plate in my electronic mopar distributor for proper advance with a mighty vac. too?
Could you please make another video explaining how the other part (Intake Manifold) creates and connect this vacuum for the distributor? How things happen!
Vacuum is created inside the intake manifold when the pistons rapidly go down during their intake stroke. They are creating a space where there briefly wasn't any so outside air rushes in because the outside air pressure is greater than inside the cylinder. There is lots of vacuum created at idle and as the engine rpm speeds up, the piston has less time to create this vacuum and so it drops to almost nothing at full throttle. This vacuum is also applied to the diaphragm on the vacuum advance on the distributor by a vacuum hose.
Can i put a little grease on the mechanical advance to prevent rusting and seizing?--Bob
I have a 292 y block out of a 59 f100 where does the vacume advance hook too?
Hey man I got a Ford f 150 truck 5ltr winsor gt40 heads weiland intake 600 holley 2 in rise to miss the dizzy top I have ran the vacuum advance line on and off the holley carb and direct manafold vacuum its only a small cam it runs better with the advance line from direct manafold vacuum than off the holley carb more snappy take off than off the holley port no feeling of the transfor from the idel circuit to main circuit just a much more smother transfer motor is better on fuel down low it's worth trying out this is my second motor I have done this to the other was a worked holden I read how to do this and much more in a book called the holley bible it had a yellow front page good luck
can you use periods?
can a vacuum be repair on a disturbutor if so can u show how if cannot can i change
vav is generally used to increases fuel economy and driveability, particularly at lean mixtures.
Can the engine idle properly if the advance isn't working? Forget vrooming... I can't get it (TR3) to run at all... sputters, makes loud popping noises with flashes of light under the carbs. What the hell is going on!!?
Great video! Thanks again! I want to see your car "zooooom" "zooooom" "zooooom" hehe
greets :)
But
Why are race car distributors locked out and vacc advance plugged?
Thanks you can you please tell me why they have both and not just 1 sort of advance Many Thanks Ian
+sandydogy The vacume advance only operates when the throttle is slightly above idle such as taking off from a stop. as you move the throttle open further, the vacume advance drops out and stops operating. the mechanical advance takes over at higher rpms such as driving down the highway at high rpms
Close, but you are not quite correct. There are two factors at play here: Manifold Air Pressure (vacuum) and RPM. Both are independently affecting the spark advance, and have a cumulative affect on the overall advance. The vacuum advance will have the most degrees of spark advance when the vacuum is highest (except at idle IF the car has "Ported Vacuum" rather than full manifold vacuum supplied to the dizzy) which occurs when the load on the engine is lowest. Working independently is the mechanical advance, which advances the timing based purely on rpm. Often times, when highway cruising, the vacuum advance is working to almost it's full spark advance (because the load on the engine is less when steady speed cruising). The vacuum advance cuts out completely at Wide Open Throttle because the pressure difference between the manifold and atmosphere becomes zero.
So the question becomes- "why does it need to be advanced? why don't I just set the timing to the advanced position and leave it there? imagine going up a steep hill with a truckload of heavy stuff- the throttle is wide open and the rpms aren't very high. the engine is producing it's max horsepower at low rpms. if the timing were too far advanced you would have pre-ignition and detonation- lots of knocking noises, and before long overheating and a blown head gasket.
Why a vacuum and mechanical advance on one distributor ?
wait a minute you are telling us that the car will be running with the distributor cap off and rotor removed and the points plate removed so you can see inside of it as you ruv it up?
No dude, he's saying you need to disconnect and plug off the vacuum advance only and use the timing light to observe the issue while revving the engine. It's actually a good video, one or both of these issues might be occurring on my vehicle
hahhaha thats so funny how would that be possible, crack up as
it was a question
no sound
sorry can't see what you are doing, too much white background, white paper and white shirt, need more lighting source
Shut up.
Great video!