Climbing Techniques: Top 3 you might not have heard of
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 май 2021
- The first 1000 people to click the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/emilabrahamsson05211
In today's video we're talking about some of the craziest climbing techniques there are out there. The three I'll talk about in the video are:
1. The Step Up Dyno, 2. Figure Four Move 3. Moon kick. I also walk through how these techniques are relevant to our every day climbing.
Albert OKs Video on speed climbing:
• Tomoa Narasaki's Revol...
Instagram:
/ abrahamssonen
/ nico_pelorson - Strong V15 beta breaker
• Délir onirique assis: ... - Nico doing the figure four on a V15
Music from Musicbed.com
Songs:
ghost-love-with-envi-max-fry
marionette-instrumental-how-great-were-the-robins
\baby-blue-badboxes
love-language-instrumental-peyton-stilling
better-than-it-ever-was-instrumental-mike-mains 
Спорт
Hehe so after reading some comments and doing some more research I feel I have to correct some statements made in the video:
1. About the 8A dyno, Rainbow Rocket. It seems as though the first ascent was done without the step up dyno (which I previously thought, and stated, was impossible). If anybody has some footage of somebody doing it without the step up, a link to it would be greatly appreciated! (Not because I don't believe it, just because it'd be frickin' cool to see!)
2. The figure four move that Nico did on the 8C/V15 was actually done by the first ascender Charles Albert as well! So it's not really a beta break, just sick beta :-)
When I was looking through the footage I could find of the boulder I saw Charles on it with Ryohei Kameyama where they both did the big dynamic move, and just assumed that he did it one the first ascent as well. However, after looking it up on bleau.info I saw a picture of Charles on the first ascent doing the figure four. My bad!
Huh, how the hell is rainbow rocket possible without the step-up?! I did it last summer and cannot imagine being able to gain enough height if my feet were any lower down.
Thanks for writing it & getting the accuracy of info spot on.
@@TheGreatNordini Must be either a kangaroo or 9ft 2' 😂
(Boring bit, old famous person tells story of relative who could jump onto the top of the fire surround from a standing start, so is possible I guess)
I appreciate your thoroughness and attention to detail here. It’s probably part of what makes you a great climber. That and obsession.
When climbing outside, and not on an indoor holds intentionally set by a routesetter, can you really call it beta "break"? Or just finding a new (and better) beta than the FA? :-D
I've never seen such a streched out figure 4 like that, and on a v15 too. Utterly genius beta lol
Awesome video showcasing these techniques!
Indeed, and also: "utterly genius" is a great way of putting it haha
I'll be honest: yours is the only skillshare advertising I don't automatically skip over. Your dual/triple selves are fantastic!
EXACTLY I WILL NEVER COMPLAIN ABOUT CREATIVITY LIKE THAT
Thanks for saying so! I really appreciate that :-)
Yooooooo! I figure 4 sure I'll skip it (i'm sorry I'm terrible...)
@@EmilAbrahamsson
Ice climber/drytooler here! At least in our world, when you figure 4 you need to get your leg way up higher on your wrist and clamp down on your wrist with your leg super hard when moving off it to get the most out of the fig-4. When your leg is low near your elbow like that, you lose reach and can get "locked in" and make it harder to get out of the fig-4.
Is it still the back of the knee or more to the calf area?
@@EyyLmaoo yep, still back of the knee
Damn, some pro tips right there! Thanks for the input :D
That figure 4 has gotta be the coolest beta break I’ve ever seen
Never heard of a "moon kick". I always heard it called a "pogo" or pogo-ing. The other 2 I'd heard of, and cool video man 😎 👌
Nice, that would have been my question.
Aye shout out to @Albert Ok creator beta break! Love him so much. Hopefully you two can collaborate once COVID eases up!
I would love to see that, I would prob watch what ever videos yall make on repeat
We actually talk quite a bit, I'm really looking forward to working with him as well. Was hoping we could do something with the world cup in salt lake but unfortunately us swedes aren't going there :-/
That's the first time I've seen a figure 4 when it was actually really making things easier.👍
U.S. checking in, glad to see all the commenters talking about "pogos" as well because I was about to ask if there was a difference between those and the moon kick haha. Also want to agree with everyone else, the production value on the ads is tremendous, I can't ever bring myself to skip one because of all the work you put into them!
These are pretty unique! Super entertaining
Thanks mate!
In my 6th year of climbing, and I have yet to find a useful figure 4, but I hope it happens sometime! I think the pogo (or moon kick) is definitely underrated, it's super fun and when you time it right the reach you get with it is so nice.
Loving the skill share advert 😁
Good tips and skills hope this will be a thing going through the different types of moves etc...
I might have to sign up for Skillshare just for that intro ad.
They should give you a raise!
U said that Rainbow Rocket is just possible as a step-up dyno but I think that Rainbow Rocket was originally climbed as a 'normal' dyno instead of a step-up dyno. Over the years the step up method was the one, which got more popular I think. Probably because its the easiest beta for most of the people (especially for
Thanks for the lesson! Looked it up after reading this and pinned a comment correcting myself :-) Was really surprised to hear that was the FA method!
More of this type of content!!
agreed!
Just finished watching Cordelia on Eric's vid. Now this, brill
Thanks, very useful
wow nico pelorson's beta break is gorgeous. love this format!
Oh wait.. you got first. Fuckin' legend
Can you explain more about how to decide when using a figure 4 might be beneficial? I've known about it for a while but I'm still not sure its exact function. Maybe an analysis of a few boulders where the figure 4 helps and an explanation of exactly how it's helping, then contrasted with some other similar looking boulders but where it wouldn't be an efficient way to climb.
greatly changes where your centre of gravity is without hardly any effort making it sometimes easier to progress
Mr Knowledge’s glasses are absolutely gorgeous!
You’re the only channel I actually watch the skillshare ads for
I liked the moon kick, as a short climber I find myself using this momentum alot from the leg even if I have a foot hold for it
Moon kick! I have used it so many times, after waching Tomoa Narasaki competing in IFSC, and I never know this technique name. Thanks: )
that fig 4 was wild
FYI, cited this video in my lab report. I just started a master's in exercise science. Let's see how often I can use your content! :D
Had no idea the figure-4 could be so versatile. And the control on the Moon Kick, vs swinging for momentum, there seemed to be a noticeable difference in the hip control. Figure 4 was my favorite. Esp the last example
Think less known than the moon kick/pogo is a moon punch and bobble (effectively a moon headbutt). Few moves the punch works on, and usually is easier to pull from a hold, but just the occasional lie back body position forces that little extra generation of momentum without being able to pull, but the bobble of the head is such a valuable technique to work into deadpoints.
great video
Thank you! :)
figure four, hjälp mig genom många probelm ;)
Great video. I think the moon kick is probably the most common among these "rare" ones right? At least I already used a moon kick whilst I never used a figure 4 or a step up dyno. Your skill share parts are really funny (and creative) I have to admit :-D
I thought you were saying "moon cake" and I really enjoyed it lol. I've never heard of this before!
I have no idea what "moon cake" would be, but it sounds incredibly tasty and I want it.
Immediately looked it up and apparently it's a nice looking pastry!
You da man Emil. Btw speaking of Tomoa, have you seen the channel himself, Akiyo & Ikedai have put together? Hopefully we'll get some great insight into the way they think about climbing in general :)
I actually just took notice of it! Looking forward to seeing what they come up with :-)
Figure four was crazzzzyyyyy
that was a pretty swanky figure four by pelorson
the beta break with figure 4 is actually insane
the step up dyno on the speed wall was Reza's beta which he used to set his first speed record
Not that guy doing a V15 with one shoe on...
that's the real beta break right there
Okay maybe I’m crazy but why I’d the dude doing the figure four on Delir onirique only wearing one shoe? Would it not because easier to just wear both or is this just part of the beta?
really want to try out the figure 4s but cant find any chances, sick video though
Try it to get round any roof lip where you have a jug...
Do you know why that guy isn't wearing a left shoe for the V15? Crazy toe beta, or what?
I dont know actually, but if I were to guess then I'd guess there's some sneaky toe beta indeed
Another possibility could be that he’s mate with Charles Albert, theres videos where you can see their crew try very hard climb barefooted, prolly a bit inspired by Charles. My suggestion is that there is a right footed move too hard for his actual foot strenght so he can’t get rid of both climbing shoes yet
@@wircoal Oh yeah, that could definitely be the case as well :-)
Thank you thank you you're far toooo kind... Can I get an encooore to you want moooore? Cooking raw with the Brooklyn bros. So for one last time I need you to raaaaaw!
Whaaaaat theee hell aaaare you waaaaiiiting foooooor? 😁
Not sure if Mr. Knowledge was inspired by this great piece of music, but now I have an ear-worm 👌
OH and by the way, great video! Thanks🙏
i was sad when the guest speakers time was up. more guest speakers pls
Emil have you seen the Mellow video of Nico sending Big Island Assis. I’m sure you have just wondering if watching it helped you at all with beta or motivation?
Oooh yes I have! Didn't do much for the beta, but motivation? Heck yeah.
Fig.4 @ worldcup: 2019 Munich - Mia Krampl. It was just insane being in the audience (she got the 3rd place). Albert OK has a video about it.
Great reminder! That was absolutely amazing, I remember being a bit shocked when she did it :-)
Was hoping you would highlight some more of that Johnny Dawes inspired foot campus.....probably coming up in an "advanced" climbing technique video though I suspect 😅
Thanks for a great idea, that'll definitely be an upcoming video! Foot campus is my holy grail of climbing haha
@@EmilAbrahamsson even if it was only a shorter video, it would be fun to see you blow off some steam and try set a problem specifically aimed at feet only. Or maybe even one that could potentially be topped with knee bars only??.....not sure who you could get in to test that though 🤔 wink wink
Didn't watch yet, but hoping for a flying pirate equivalent :D
2:57 i heard Jernej Kruder did Rainbow Rocket without the step up after flashing it with the step up
Just pinned a comment about this! I was trying to find a link to when Jernej was in Font but only found when he was doing the regular version, so they must've cut out the part where he did it I suppose? Or maybe he just did the left version which is a regular dyno, and people mixed it up? Anyhow, if you find some footy let me know, It'd be really cool to see :-)
@@EmilAbrahamsson i don't know if any footage exists would be cool to see yeah. I found where i read it, he stated it on his log of the boulder on 8a.nu
@@EmilAbrahamsson I found it! Well actually it found me, today the almighty youtube algorithm decided to recommend me a vid of Rainbow Rocket from 14 years ago. So ofcourse i watched it, and the climber does it without the step up here! ruclips.net/video/Xs_I52bydB0/видео.html
I've never heard anyone call it a moon kick! We call it a pogo here.
Your verbal description of a moon kick was spot on, but not the best visual examples. Those were mostly just back flags or jumps off the leg. None really used the legs momentum to create a big force multiplying swing, but fun vid either way. 👍
How much easier than Rainbow Rocket do you think that indoor step up dyno was?
Hmm.. It's really hard to compare, but maybe 3 grades easier?
Actually your example for the moon kick is quite interesting. I don't see you swinging your leg around to create momentum. But I think that is because you have to tension up so much in these positions that you can't afford to wildly swing around, while still trying to generate a small movement impulse from the little margin you have left.
Yeah I wish I had a slightly better example. The same principle is there, but it's not quite as obvious as the one where Nikken is doing it :-/ Also, I think as a taller climber it's much less visible (because to get the same type of momentum as a shorter climber I don't have to swing it nearly as much). But yeah, as you mentioned, the tension required lessens the amount of swing I could create :-)
I find the figure 4 awkward and slower then to just use strength as you said. Perhaps I have not found a perfect example to use it though...
is the moon kick same as the pogo?
Yes it is!
Is the moon kick the same as a pogo move or is there a difference?
It's the same! I believe it's called a "moon kick" because legend Ben Moon invented it so to speak :-)
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks, just wanted to make sure
we need to get you on some ice so you can use your ice hatchet thingy. Aka ice axe ;)
please link to video of v15 figure four
Putting it in the description box now!
Known as a moon kick or moon flick in the uk as it first came to prominence after Ben Moon made the first ascent of Cypher 8B at the Sliptones. The move is at 2.14 on this video ruclips.net/video/gp1_961ix6c/видео.html
vid starts at 2:03
Time to go stare at the walls in my gym for a while to find a place where I can use & practice these...
1000th view
Moon kicks are rad, I've always called them "pogos" but that might be a British thing
I believe pogo is a common word for it around the world as well :-) Moon kick sounds a bit more rad though
In the US, we call 'moon kick', 'pogo'.
the figure 4 = yaniro
super mario in real life
Strangely enough "Fontainbleau" is pronounced like the Swedish "blå", a friend of mine is born there.. fucking french language, as soon as you think you know how it's pronounced they're like "nah not this one tho..." I think if it's pronounced "blö" it'd be "eux" at the end... not sure tho
Or just say w/e who cares anyway great video!
First
Legend!
LMAO hey mike
Na
Second ;(
Solid early squad though!