I don't think they do, but I will say that both Nik'a and Topoint and Kinetic as well as Akusta make great risers at budget prices. Well worth the look.
Hayden, that is a tough question. First question is are you doing olympic recurve or barebow? and how much do you want to spend? For me now after shooting all three, and if I had the money, I would choose in order, ET-15A, ET-11 Protoss, TBOW H7 and finally the ET-12. All 4 shoot well but the Nik'a bows will have a better finish. Only reason why I would get the H7 over the ET-12, is the clicker plate. My favorite is now the ET-15A due to weight and dampers built in, plus the choice of clicker plate height. If that is too expensive, the ET-11 is a great riser.
I like my short Junxing riser marketed by Lancaster as the Scream. However it's the opposite of yours w/o the cutouts. The Nika ET-12 I now shoot has the grip like your T-bow & the cutouts also like your T-bow. It's a 25" riser with all that & the price is less than the Junxing made riser. So things r changing & competition helps the consumer. That's the way I see it. Too bad that winter showed up late in the US or I would be shooting everyday 😮. I'm building my arrows with 3 " on the shafts that I'm going to shoot with my Nika C1 limbs. I just got the 2" feathers that I will be putting on my shafts (weather permitting) after I shoot them all bareshaft & am satisfied with their performance. Those 2" will be for the Nika N-3 limbs. Tomorrow is the day to get them ready for that process which will be postponed to April 😅.
Must be getting excited about your N3 limbs. Think you will find them really nice. Pity you have the cold again. I have an ET-12 and think it's an amazing riser for the price. It's funny, I get people say they would never buy Chinese. Thing is they then go and buy a chines bow under a different name. For me I buy what I think is good value for money. We can't pick and choose here in New Zealand as things are so expensive due to shipping costs. I must admit I really like this riser, and I may well be using it as a dedicated indoor bow.
Yeah, I was hoping to shoot the C1's early in the year & work my way up to the N3's. Those limbs r so much faster & u have more flexibility. I should have ordered 600 spine arrows for my C1's. But it sure will be interesting to see how much better those N3 limbs r when a 2" low profile feather is all that is needed for Supreme arrow flight.😅
I actually had the N'3s b4 I ordered the C1's Andrew. But I didn't have a good fit of an arrow for them. It's now one year later & I have 2 dozen Pandarus Icepoint shafts & a new ET-12 riser. But I need to shoot the shafts @ full length with the C1 to get even a close bare shaft tune. Half of the shafts I also need to cut 1/8" off the end or they spin with a wobble. One shaft I had to cut 1/8" off both ends. If I would have gone with my gut I would have got a dozen in 550 & 600 spine each. But as the weather warms I think I can make it work by switching limbs & tightening limb bolts into different positions. 🎉
@@josephtreadlightly5686 And don't forget point weight and also micro tuning with the button as well. I will be doing all this with my indoor bow setup.
You were nota unnoticed; without your review my bow history would have been Very diferent.
Cheers, glad you found it enjoyable.😀
Hi , I am one of the fortunate few who is left handed. Do you know if Junxing make their TBOW H 7 for left handers?
I don't think they do, but I will say that both Nik'a and Topoint and Kinetic as well as Akusta make great risers at budget prices. Well worth the look.
Would u recommend this riser if I can get my hands on one for $150USD or do you think I should save up for a Nika ET-11 or Nika ET 15A
or ET 12
Hayden, that is a tough question. First question is are you doing olympic recurve or barebow? and how much do you want to spend? For me now after shooting all three, and if I had the money, I would choose in order, ET-15A, ET-11 Protoss, TBOW H7 and finally the ET-12. All 4 shoot well but the Nik'a bows will have a better finish. Only reason why I would get the H7 over the ET-12, is the clicker plate. My favorite is now the ET-15A due to weight and dampers built in, plus the choice of clicker plate height. If that is too expensive, the ET-11 is a great riser.
I like my short Junxing riser marketed by Lancaster as the Scream. However it's the opposite of yours w/o the cutouts. The Nika ET-12 I now shoot has the grip like your T-bow & the cutouts also like your T-bow. It's a 25" riser with all that & the price is less than the Junxing made riser. So things r changing & competition helps the consumer. That's the way I see it. Too bad that winter showed up late in the US or I would be shooting everyday 😮. I'm building my arrows with 3 " on the shafts that I'm going to shoot with my Nika C1 limbs. I just got the 2" feathers that I will be putting on my shafts (weather permitting) after I shoot them all bareshaft & am satisfied with their performance. Those 2" will be for the Nika N-3 limbs. Tomorrow is the day to get them ready for that process which will be postponed to April 😅.
Must be getting excited about your N3 limbs. Think you will find them really nice. Pity you have the cold again. I have an ET-12 and think it's an amazing riser for the price. It's funny, I get people say they would never buy Chinese. Thing is they then go and buy a chines bow under a different name. For me I buy what I think is good value for money. We can't pick and choose here in New Zealand as things are so expensive due to shipping costs. I must admit I really like this riser, and I may well be using it as a dedicated indoor bow.
Yeah, I was hoping to shoot the C1's early in the year & work my way up to the N3's. Those limbs r so much faster & u have more flexibility. I should have ordered 600 spine arrows for my C1's. But it sure will be interesting to see how much better those N3 limbs r when a 2" low profile feather is all that is needed for Supreme arrow flight.😅
@@josephtreadlightly5686 I think you will like them if you already like the C1's.
I actually had the N'3s b4 I ordered the C1's Andrew. But I didn't have a good fit of an arrow for them. It's now one year later & I have 2 dozen Pandarus Icepoint shafts & a new ET-12 riser. But I need to shoot the shafts @ full length with the C1 to get even a close bare shaft tune. Half of the shafts I also need to cut 1/8" off the end or they spin with a wobble. One shaft I had to cut 1/8" off both ends. If I would have gone with my gut I would have got a dozen in 550 & 600 spine each. But as the weather warms I think I can make it work by switching limbs & tightening limb bolts into different positions. 🎉
@@josephtreadlightly5686 And don't forget point weight and also micro tuning with the button as well. I will be doing all this with my indoor bow setup.
✌🏹
Cheers Buddy😁