I LIKE these kind of videos, Paul !!!! I also respect the fact that YOU do some of your own repairs to your motorhome .... There are a lot of repairs / general maintenance that full timers CAN do, with a bit of patience and common sense, that WILL SAVE them a bunch of BUCK$ ..
Thanks Rick. I also want to show what you can do with minimum tools. I know folks are trying to help and it's easy to say you should have this tool or that tool, but the bottom line is space to store tools and is it worth carrying something you will use once every few years. I should have mentioned renting tools at a local parts store. That's a great option!
I am so grateful for you and your videos, thank you for sharing with us on how to do work on things. I just lost my father in January he knew how to do EVERYTHING! This is so helpful! Glad to have found your channel.
I'm guessing you changed the shocks out to get ride of some of the bounce and rocking.. check out Sumo springs.. the shocks will make a difference for sure but the Sumo springs will be a game changer.. We travel in an 2001 Adventurer f53 and they made a HUGE difference.
We only replaced them because the front right was bad and it was dipping to the right on a left hand corner. We don't get much bouncing and rocking, to be honest, but we will be looking at Sumo Springs down he road.
No skinned knuckles. I’m impressed. When you have to change them again, a little bearing grease on the bolts makes life a whole lot easier and the shocks won’t squeak either
Just did mine. Took 2 hours. Installation was super easy. However, removing the existing shocks was no fun. I've never seen nuts tightened to the degree to which these were. Literally had to take a ratchet strap and hook it to the breaker bar to loosen bolts. Highly suggest using penetrating oil to help free nuts from bolts. Also, I had to drop rear tortion bar to remove lower rear shock bolts.
I don't do too many because the armchair mechanics come out of the woodwork to explain everything you did wrong! Lol! It's a different story on the road with limited tools, than it is in a house with ALL the goodies! Safe travels my friend!
Did this same project, I found my electric impact worked great. For the front lowers I just need to turn the tires out of the way and I could get right in there.
Just "LOVE" to see Paul try and do a Front Wheel Bearing Check? Its a Simple Procedure that Most RV'rs fail to get done, and should on a Regular basis(yearly)..in a Tire Rotation.(YEP..Pick a real HOT day to "Rotate" those tires while yer at it please Paul :) )
I already replaced the bearings in the rear axles. Both sides. I have never had a bearing go out before it let you know, well in advance from the screaming, that it isn't a happy camper!
When you are ready for another upgrade check the RV shocks from Koni FSD. They are dual-damping and work in 2 directions giving you a much smoother RV ride.
Hey Paul it's Leon for California, Nice DYI job and video!, a year ago I bought the Ryobi One+ 1/2" Impact Wrench it's rated at 300 ft-lbs and has very been reliable for me and a reasonable price, however once you start the Ryobi collection its hard to stop, the tools nice to have on the road, my work light, impact, tire air compressor, blower, soldering iron, glue gun all using the same 18v batteries.
You hit the nail on the head...once you start down the Ryobi or "insert system of choice here" then you are stuck in that system. The Ryobi stuff is pretty good though. I actually have the Ryobi One+ 18v reciprocating saw, that I use for firewood. :) Once you start full-timing, you're going to have to make some decisions on what to carry. In my house, I had EVERYTHING just in case, but carrying all that extra weight in my RV, was a different story! It was all sold or given away...😢
Paul would HAVE to LOAD the Ford Edge up with ALL THAT STUFF, and WEIGHT, just to have it IN-CASE those tools were ever needed !!! DUH ...................
Well sounds like you already carry the battery and charger for the saw, a hand full of the needed tools you would use frequently like a impact might be worth it, the tools actually are very light without the battery. For example Paul’s tire pump looks at least twice the weight as the Ryobii one+. Good idea though, A towed hatchback would make a great mobile tool box. ;)
RV Trip'n, you're right...the weight of that particular tool is not necessarily an issue, but I am always looking to carry as little as possible. We constantly go through things and ask ourselves, "do we really need to carry this?" Then we donate it if we don't need it, regardless of how small it is or how much it weighs. Thanks for tips!
Pro tip.. measure center of bolt to other center of bolt... That will give you reference point to see how close you are with the strap on the new shock, by of coarse measuring center of hole to center of hole on new shock! U the man Paul! Did she make you some lemonade on that project???
If I would travel in our motorhome as much as you do I would definitely invest in the Milwaukee Fuel battery powered 1/2" impact driver. With 1400 lbs of reverse torque you will get any nut loose or you will break it.
We only have so much room for tools. At home I had ALL the "just in case" tools, but in the RV, I have a tool bag and that box of large sockets and that's it. If you have a big old diesel pusher, you can carry everything with you...we don't have that luxury! The other thing you have to think about is, firing up an impact driver in a campground is likely to get you booted out or at the very least you'll be told you can't work on your vehicle there because you are disturbing other campers. With that being said, I've got some 18v Ryobi tools , so I'll have to see what kind of impact driver they have!
@@LifeWithPaulLorena So much "common sense" explained, Paul ... And it really IS just "common sense", if folks would THINK before posting a silly comment ...LOL
Ebay has an 1/2 drive 20v impact wrench WITH battery for $85. I have used the hell out of mine... even removing and replacing lug nuts. Even Harbor Freight can't sell them for that price... they don't come with a $50 battery that you have to buy.
My son and I did this job a couple of years ago on our F53 chassis. Had to crank up the pressure all the way on the pneumatic impact to budge the top bolt. Definitely improved the ride for sure. BTW, everything on a motorhome is 8 on a scale of 10. Try replacing a radiator.
Hello! Would you tell me the part number of those shock absorver? I have a Winnebago Istaca Suncruiser 1995 motorhome chassis F53 and we need to replace it. Thank you.
Nice job on the install. I replaced all 4 on my F53 and it almost killed me. Just kidding. The rear shocks were much more difficult. The shocks made a big difference, but the Sumo Springs I installed were a game changer. Check out my video on F53 chassis upgrades to see all the stuff I installed to make our coach drive like a dream.
Great video. I would suggest spraying the bolts and nuts with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster before starting. Even starting a couple days before and spraying them a couple times. Makes a big difference in how hard/easey it is to get the bolts out. I also coat the bolt with a light coating of wheel bearing grease to prevent corrosion and wheare. I also have a small 36 oz hammer to tap the bolts out and in. How does it ride with the new shocks? Have you checked the bushings on your sway bars? New polypropylene bushings in place of the OEM rubber bushings will help with the ride.
Good points William! I waited until I was in it to get out the WD40! I don't notice a huge difference in the ride. It was dipping hard to the right in a left turn, which it isn't doing anymore.
As a retired mechanic, I can honestly say the F53 front shocks are super easy. There are far many more challenging shocks and struts out there. DIYers please understand this shock would be classified as very easy by most professional and shade tree mechanics. Do not let the 8 on a scale of 10 worry you. It would be better classified as a 2-3 out of 10. A few taps with a hammer would have popped that lower bolt out easily, without any fear of injury. Also, please use a box or open end wrench to back up your nuts, never use a Cresent wrench. Some knee pads would be good for us over wrenchers :)
I would think a retired mechanic finds this a 2-10. This was for those people who rarely do there own mechanic work and find this intimidating. When you are full time living in an RV you probably don't have a full tool box full of everything you need. I literally have a small tool bag plus a large socket set for RV. I agree you should use a box end wrench, but I don't carry one that size. You have to run what you brung Dennis!
Great video! Thank you for the info...bought Koni shocks over the winter for my F53...didn’t want to spend 499.00 for installation...this is definitely do-able by the “do-it-yourself-er”. Will be swinging by Harbor Freight for some needed tools! Safe travels!
Not a DIY'r but like knowing what is done when it's done. I just had extensive replacement work done all around. Ball joints, tie rods in and out, idler arms, center link, pittman, new chassis sensors ETC: was not cheap. Drives sooo much better as was neglected sooo long.
Just a note the last guy posting about Lorean i dont understand why people have to post mean things am sure he has no ideal about her you two r fun what you screw up she corrects i love it you guys would throw in interveiwing other rigs fixing things and places all great but i am glad you r moving on to more then just the beaches. Drone great
We appreciate that Terri. It was a really weird comment. One, she's actually married to a gringo! Lol! Two "gringo or gringa" are NOT even derogatory terms. They simply mean not latino or latina. They don't use the term American because they know there are Central Americans and South Americans, as well. We understand that everyone is not going to like everything we do and that's okay. I'm fine with you saying, "I'm glad you're moving onto other things." I'm okay with people's opinions, but if you attack us personally, they need to know that's not gonna slide. And we prefer to focus on the good peeps watching like yourself and our buddy Rick S there!
Great info. I have worked on all my own vehicles for years but, I am getting ready to replace some front shocks on my daughters 97 bounder. Why didn't you knock it out from the opposite side and use PB blaster or something first?
The old ones weren't that bad, but I was getting noises from the front end and the shocks were the easiest, quickest and cheapest change to make. I didn't notice any change in ride, but the noise seemed to subside a bit. I still think there is an issue I need to find.
A basic install video with all the amateurs mechanics issues & problems. Don’t pinch your fingers!! One question what year is the rig, mileage on old Koni shocks?? after the install and about $500 dollars in new shocks bilsteen did you have significant ride, control improvement?? A quick follow up would be great. Would like to know if this is money well spent or a waste of time. Thanks for posting.
Hi Pete! Yeah, I get people saying, you should have done this and you should have done that and you should have used this tool or that tool. I don't think they realize I'm in a campground with a bag of tools the size of a Superman lunch pail! Lol! The whole point of my "How to" videos is showing you can do these things with minimal tools and no lift. I had old Bilsteins on it that were shot. The new ones were about $125 a piece. I didn't notice a significant difference in handling, only they didn't make a bunch of noise during cornering. Thanks for watching!
I carry air driven driver and sockets for these kinda jobs, but I also have several large box wrenches. Much safer than using a crescent wrench. The advantage of owning a DP is air supply.
Yep, a DP has it's advantages in that respect, for sure. But for as much as I'm going to work on mine, I don't see the need to carry too many tools. With that being said, I definitely need a large set of box end wrenches!
It may have been an illusion but the new shocks look bigger/beefier than the older ones. Is that the case? I bet those old ones were shot after the trips to Alaska and Baja.
Very nice and succinct video Paul. HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT THE SUMO SPRINGS TO HELP ELIMINATE THE SIDE TO SIDE MOTION that sometimes happens when going over bumps or do you think the new shocks will take care of that?
Do you have the SUMO Springs Chuck? The only time I notice huge swaying is pulling out of parking lots, but not too much rolling down the road. The shocks will only help sway a tiny bit. Our front right was toast and the coach was dipping hard to the right in a left hand turn.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena I don't have the Sumo springs but have been thinking of adding them. I notice the rocking when driving and changing lanes where there are different levels.
It depends on if the shock is fully extended or not. If the shock is still trying to extend, holding the spring won't relieve the pressure on the bolt. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you are saying.
Remember not to torque the bolts that run through the shock until vehicle is on ground level and off jacks, also follow torque specs for rear and front shock since weight may vary , well at least in cars or small pickups, thanks for the tip on raising the leaf spring, I would bolt the top cut the strap and let the shock land on the jack then raise the shock, to line up to the bottom bolt, next time Ill try your method
the bilstein 46's were replaced by 5100's. The latter having thicker pistons, and thus, having more damping. What are your thoughts on the new shock absorbers?
Thanks for the video! Looks simple enough, with a good bit of muscle work. I wonder if tying a strap around the old shock before removing would make it easier? I mean jack it up 1/2" then strap, then you have 1/2" to stretch the strap. Ok, perhaps 1" is needed. What can you use for a strap? How about a pipe clamp? What safety do you use to jack up the motor home? or is the tire still on the ground?
A strap would work. Anything to hold the shock from extending before you need it to. The tire is still on and touching the ground so it's a pretty safe process.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena There must be a lot of room under there to work with the tire still down. I cannot stress how important safety is, there are just so many other videos about people going under a vehicle that's only held up by a jack. Every video should have a short blurb to remind others that jack stands & tire chocks are necessary.
Just got done. Tools you need: 2 - 1 1/8 sockets (1/2 or 3/4" drive), ratchet and breaker bar, 1 1/8 combo wrench. 2 washers on top? / 3 washers on bottom? Why not 3 and 3 washers?, pay attention.
Have you installed "SumoSprings" OEM Bump Stop enhancement replacement? They make them for the F53 Chassis and will definitely help with the side to side rocking. Happy Trails.
I'm sorry rod, but I did this 5 years ago, so I don't remember the size of the nuts and bolts. A quick Google search should get you your answer. Good luck!
The price is going to be much different than when this was shot a few years ago. Jump online and find the ones that fit your RV. The price will be there.
There isn't much space under there. In my opinion, if you're in one place you want to stay there a while. Moving back and forth requires some gymnastics! Lol!
Great stuff man. naturally the guy at the dealership is going to want $130-$150 per hr. because their technicians All have PH.D's in Bodyshop and Mechanic Technology.
I've got a center punch Ade, but if I worry that I hit it with a center punch and then it drops bad things might happen. I had impact drivers and all the tools I need in my house. I don't want to carry all that with us on the road for the little amount we will use them.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena WHY CAN'T folks realize that you "can't possibly CARRY" all those tools, and a compressor, hoses, etc with you, on the road .....???????????? Sorry, but it BAFFLES ME .....
HaHAHAHa Paul the only guy I know that can break a sweat picking his nose doing a "DIYer". Priceless !!! Postscript; Seen any UFO"s or aliens lately? I have not either. LOL
If you have the F53 chassis, all of the auto parts store websites have them. They probably have them for the Chevy Workhorse chassis as well. As far as diesel pushers you would have to check with the manufacturer of the frame.
I'm thinking that Ford already did the research and installed the best. Just replace with same that is on yours. Better yet... leave the old ones on and add new identical ones. All you need is longer bolts from tractor supply. Quad shocks make a significant difference.
Looks like a good job for a real mechanic. In fact, ANY suspension work IMO is good to have a real mechanic do the work on. Don't like crawling around the dirt all sweaty especially with all the flies around.
Really? Where was the part where you let people know to take bolts to bench grinder with wire wheel and clean bolt shank and threads of rust. Then what about grease on shank and threads when reinstalling the bolts so they save the rubber bushings and the threads don't rust. If your going to show something please show it done correctly.
Well let's see mister know it all. There wasn't any rust to remove on a mystical bench grinder that wouldn't be available to the average person trying to do this else they are on the road. The nuts came off and went on by hand fairly easily.The threads are in a metal bushing and don't directly touch any rubber parts. And last if you put grease on the threads you might have a bolt back out and lose a shock going down the road. Just because it's your way doesn't make it, the correct way. I appreciate your thoughtful comment though. Have a great day!
Its a truck Chassis there is no easy DIY on commercial vehicles. It's all going to be 7/10 difficulty or above. Just removing the tire is a workout 6/10 Even the lug nuts weigh a ton! :D Don't use those harbor freight Jack Stands!
A smarter thing to do is go to Tractor supply and buy some longer bolts and just ADD the new shocks. Keep the old ones on and with quad shocks you will have a much much better ride. I promise!
I was just quoted $480 to replace the front shocks on my F53 chassis by my RV dealer. I asked what brand and they said they had no idea which shock the distributor would send. I said...... no thanks.
Hey Tom! That's not too bad I guess, but you can find these Bilstein (great brand) shocks online for $100 each or less online, so figure $280 in labor...nevermind, with the tools they have it will take them less than an hour...holy crap! The other brand you might want to look at are the Koni.
You wish... breaking those over torque bolts is anything but easy. Once they are a half round the impact wrench makes it fast. Also even with the strap the holes aren't going to light up like they did in this video.
When I bought my Winnebago new it was a option to get Bilstien shocks which I got. 3 yrs ago I was having a terrible time keeping it on the road and when I got home I found on of the front shocks had not resistance (no oil leak though) Call Bilstien to get it warranted (life time warranty) and they told me "because the factory put them on we don't warranty them" I said I paid to have them added as an option but they wouldn't give. As far as I am concerned Bilstien has a shitty customer service and warranty policy. I won't buy their product ever again.
I hear ya Alan! All it takes is one bad experience and you can get turned off a brand in a hurry! If they are "Lifetime Warranty" who did they expect to warranty them? That's odd! Sorry that had to happen to you. Safe travels!
An air ratchet is ideal, but carrying ALL the tools you need is tough in an RV, so I try to do it with old school basics. Not only that, firing up an air ratchet in a campground, is usually frowned upon! 😃
And you took out Bilsteins and replaced with What shocks??? and a guy below says the Milwaukee cordless 1/2 inch impact driver is valuable... IF my RV moves. it goes with.. just sayin..
I actually Prefer a Steel Pipe, two feet long, that fits over the Handle of a Big Torque wrench, as it has many Uses beside being a "LEVER" to help undo a Stuck Nut/Bolt? (Tire thumper/persuader/roller to move heavy stuff/etc)
I put Bilsteins back in. The aftermarket have a bit bigger piston than stock. I also looked at the Koni. The one on the right was bad. Making a left turn it would dip hard to the right. I don't notice much of a difference other than the dip stopped. As I said to a few folks, the problem I have with an impact wrench is the noise. I don't want to disturb anyone. We were in the "tent" area at the campground I did that in. Imagine on a Saturday afternoon while everyone was BBQing, I fire up an impact driver! Braaaaaaa, braaaaaaa, braaaaaa.....I couldn't do it! Lol!
Just because you have difficulty accessing something does not mean the engineers were unaware of the issue. They have constraints. Don't be so arrogant.
![CLASS A MOTORHOME SUSPENSION UPGRADES [NOT SO CHEAP HANDLING FIX]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oR9SNb6T7LE/mqdefault.jpg)
![CLASS A MOTORHOME SUSPENSION UPGRADES [NOT SO CHEAP HANDLING FIX]](/img/tr.png)
I LIKE these kind of videos, Paul !!!! I also respect the fact that YOU do some of your own repairs to your motorhome .... There are a lot of repairs / general maintenance that full timers CAN do, with a bit of patience and common sense, that WILL SAVE them a bunch of BUCK$ ..
Thanks Rick. I also want to show what you can do with minimum tools. I know folks are trying to help and it's easy to say you should have this tool or that tool, but the bottom line is space to store tools and is it worth carrying something you will use once every few years. I should have mentioned renting tools at a local parts store. That's a great option!
I am so grateful for you and your videos, thank you for sharing with us on how to do work on things. I just lost my father in January he knew how to do EVERYTHING! This is so helpful! Glad to have found your channel.
I'm guessing you changed the shocks out to get ride of some of the bounce and rocking.. check out Sumo springs.. the shocks will make a difference for sure but the Sumo springs will be a game changer.. We travel in an 2001 Adventurer f53 and they made a HUGE difference.
We only replaced them because the front right was bad and it was dipping to the right on a left hand corner. We don't get much bouncing and rocking, to be honest, but we will be looking at Sumo Springs down he road.
No skinned knuckles. I’m impressed. When you have to change them again, a little bearing grease on the bolts makes life a whole lot easier and the shocks won’t squeak either
Thanks Brian!
Anytime my friend. Be safe
In spite of the “professional” opinions I appreciate your putting your suggestion into a video. Keep ‘‘em coming.
Doing "How To" stuff always brings out the opinions for sure. My way isn't perfect, but it works for me, so that's all I can do. Thank you John!
Just did mine. Took 2 hours. Installation was super easy. However, removing the existing shocks was no fun. I've never seen nuts tightened to the degree to which these were. Literally had to take a ratchet strap and hook it to the breaker bar to loosen bolts. Highly suggest using penetrating oil to help free nuts from bolts. Also, I had to drop rear tortion bar to remove lower rear shock bolts.
Les swab wanted to charge me $850, thanks for the demo!!!
Well done Paul. You don't usually do these type of vids but I like them. Not much of a greasemonkey myself but after watching this, no problem!!
I don't do too many because the armchair mechanics come out of the woodwork to explain everything you did wrong! Lol! It's a different story on the road with limited tools, than it is in a house with ALL the goodies! Safe travels my friend!
@@LifeWithPaulLorena You gotta LET those types just "slide" on by .... or IGNORE them fools !!!!!
I switched to Bilsteins and I am happy that I did. I also installed a Safe-T plus and it helps with Rig pulling and pushing.
Did this same project, I found my electric impact worked great. For the front lowers I just need to turn the tires out of the way and I could get right in there.
Thanks for mentioning this. I was wondering about that myself.
Just "LOVE" to see Paul try and do a Front Wheel Bearing Check? Its a Simple Procedure that Most RV'rs fail to get done, and should on a Regular basis(yearly)..in a Tire Rotation.(YEP..Pick a real HOT day to "Rotate" those tires while yer at it please Paul :) )
I already replaced the bearings in the rear axles. Both sides. I have never had a bearing go out before it let you know, well in advance from the screaming, that it isn't a happy camper!
When you are ready for another upgrade check the RV shocks from Koni FSD. They are dual-damping and work in 2 directions giving you a much smoother RV ride.
Hey Paul it's Leon for California, Nice DYI job and video!, a year ago I bought the Ryobi One+ 1/2" Impact Wrench it's rated at 300 ft-lbs and has very been reliable for me and a reasonable price, however once you start the Ryobi collection its hard to stop, the tools nice to have on the road, my work light, impact, tire air compressor, blower, soldering iron, glue gun all using the same 18v batteries.
You hit the nail on the head...once you start down the Ryobi or "insert system of choice here" then you are stuck in that system. The Ryobi stuff is pretty good though. I actually have the Ryobi One+ 18v reciprocating saw, that I use for firewood. :) Once you start full-timing, you're going to have to make some decisions on what to carry. In my house, I had EVERYTHING just in case, but carrying all that extra weight in my RV, was a different story! It was all sold or given away...😢
Paul would HAVE to LOAD the Ford Edge up with ALL THAT STUFF, and WEIGHT, just to have it IN-CASE those tools were ever needed !!! DUH ...................
Well sounds like you already carry the battery and charger for the saw, a hand full of the needed tools you would use frequently like a impact might be worth it, the tools actually are very light without the battery. For example Paul’s tire pump looks at least twice the weight as the Ryobii one+. Good idea though, A towed hatchback would make a great mobile tool box. ;)
RV Trip'n, you're right...the weight of that particular tool is not necessarily an issue, but I am always looking to carry as little as possible. We constantly go through things and ask ourselves, "do we really need to carry this?" Then we donate it if we don't need it, regardless of how small it is or how much it weighs. Thanks for tips!
Pro tip.. measure center of bolt to other center of bolt... That will give you reference point to see how close you are with the strap on the new shock, by of coarse measuring center of hole to center of hole on new shock! U the man Paul! Did she make you some lemonade on that project???
Thanks for the tip Jeremy! No, but I had some Dr Pepper waiting! Lol!
@@LifeWithPaulLorena i should of figured lol...
If I would travel in our motorhome as much as you do I would definitely invest in the Milwaukee Fuel battery powered 1/2" impact driver. With 1400 lbs of reverse torque you will get any nut loose or you will break it.
We only have so much room for tools. At home I had ALL the "just in case" tools, but in the RV, I have a tool bag and that box of large sockets and that's it. If you have a big old diesel pusher, you can carry everything with you...we don't have that luxury!
The other thing you have to think about is, firing up an impact driver in a campground is likely to get you booted out or at the very least you'll be told you can't work on your vehicle there because you are disturbing other campers. With that being said, I've got some 18v Ryobi tools , so I'll have to see what kind of impact driver they have!
@@LifeWithPaulLorena So much "common sense" explained, Paul ...
And it really IS just "common sense", if folks would THINK before posting a silly comment ...LOL
Ebay has an 1/2 drive 20v impact wrench WITH battery for $85.
I have used the hell out of mine... even removing and replacing lug nuts.
Even Harbor Freight can't sell them for that price... they don't come with a $50 battery that you have to buy.
My son and I did this job a couple of years ago on our F53 chassis. Had to crank up the pressure all the way on the pneumatic impact to budge the top bolt. Definitely improved the ride for sure. BTW, everything on a motorhome is 8 on a scale of 10. Try replacing a radiator.
Hello! Would you tell me the part number of those shock absorver? I have a Winnebago Istaca Suncruiser 1995 motorhome chassis F53 and we need to replace it. Thank you.
The link to the exact shock I used is in the description...amzn.to/2F1sAMH
Outstanding, Luke got a chuckle about the Engineer part. 😉. You are spot on though...😂😂😂
Right!? I think they design stuff and then look at it and go..."oooh that's gonna be tight, well I don't have to fix it!" Lol!
Nice job on the install. I replaced all 4 on my F53 and it almost killed me. Just kidding. The rear shocks were much more difficult. The shocks made a big difference, but the Sumo Springs I installed were a game changer. Check out my video on F53 chassis upgrades to see all the stuff I installed to make our coach drive like a dream.
Definitely going to have to check out the Sumo Springs. I think Kevin has them on his coach.
If you had only added the new shocks you wouldn't need the sumo. Tractor supply has the 8 inch bolts.
Great video. I would suggest spraying the bolts and nuts with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster before starting. Even starting a couple days before and spraying them a couple times. Makes a big difference in how hard/easey it is to get the bolts out. I also coat the bolt with a light coating of wheel bearing grease to prevent corrosion and wheare. I also have a small 36 oz hammer to tap the bolts out and in.
How does it ride with the new shocks?
Have you checked the bushings on your sway bars? New polypropylene bushings in place of the OEM rubber bushings will help with the ride.
Good points William! I waited until I was in it to get out the WD40! I don't notice a huge difference in the ride. It was dipping hard to the right in a left turn, which it isn't doing anymore.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena Look at the bushings that connect your anti sway bar they may be deteriorated.
I put Cop-r-Kote on Everything !
As a retired mechanic, I can honestly say the F53 front shocks are super easy. There are far many more challenging shocks and struts out there. DIYers please understand this shock would be classified as very easy by most professional and shade tree mechanics. Do not let the 8 on a scale of 10 worry you. It would be better classified as a 2-3 out of 10.
A few taps with a hammer would have popped that lower bolt out easily, without any fear of injury. Also, please use a box or open end wrench to back up your nuts, never use a Cresent wrench. Some knee pads would be good for us over wrenchers :)
I would think a retired mechanic finds this a 2-10. This was for those people who rarely do there own mechanic work and find this intimidating. When you are full time living in an RV you probably don't have a full tool box full of everything you need. I literally have a small tool bag plus a large socket set for RV. I agree you should use a box end wrench, but I don't carry one that size. You have to run what you brung Dennis!
Great video! Thank you for the info...bought Koni shocks over the winter for my F53...didn’t want to spend 499.00 for installation...this is definitely do-able by the “do-it-yourself-er”. Will be swinging by Harbor Freight for some needed tools! Safe travels!
You've got this Steve!
Not a DIY'r but like knowing what is done when it's done. I just had extensive replacement work done all around. Ball joints, tie rods in and out, idler arms, center link, pittman, new chassis sensors ETC: was not cheap. Drives sooo much better as was neglected sooo long.
Yeah, that stuff will make a huge difference if it's been a while!
Just a note the last guy posting about Lorean i dont understand why people have to post mean things am sure he has no ideal about her you two r fun what you screw up she corrects i love it you guys would throw in interveiwing other rigs fixing things and places all great but i am glad you r moving on to more then just the beaches. Drone great
NICE comment !!!! :) :) :)
We appreciate that Terri. It was a really weird comment. One, she's actually married to a gringo! Lol! Two "gringo or gringa" are NOT even derogatory terms. They simply mean not latino or latina. They don't use the term American because they know there are Central Americans and South Americans, as well.
We understand that everyone is not going to like everything we do and that's okay. I'm fine with you saying, "I'm glad you're moving onto other things." I'm okay with people's opinions, but if you attack us personally, they need to know that's not gonna slide.
And we prefer to focus on the good peeps watching like yourself and our buddy Rick S there!
Great info. I have worked on all my own vehicles for years but, I am getting ready to replace some front shocks on my daughters 97 bounder. Why didn't you knock it out from the opposite side and use PB blaster or something first?
PB Blaster first is always a good idea. And as with anything, could have, would have, should have! Lol!
I am trying to figure out.... what will this new shocks absorbers will do because it didn’t seem the old ones weren’t badly...??
The old ones weren't that bad, but I was getting noises from the front end and the shocks were the easiest, quickest and cheapest change to make. I didn't notice any change in ride, but the noise seemed to subside a bit. I still think there is an issue I need to find.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena ok thank you for responding
A basic install video with all the amateurs mechanics issues & problems. Don’t pinch your fingers!! One question what year is the rig, mileage on old Koni shocks?? after the install and about $500 dollars in new shocks bilsteen did you have significant ride, control improvement?? A quick follow up would be great. Would like to know if this is money well spent or a waste of time. Thanks for posting.
Hi Pete! Yeah, I get people saying, you should have done this and you should have done that and you should have used this tool or that tool. I don't think they realize I'm in a campground with a bag of tools the size of a Superman lunch pail! Lol! The whole point of my "How to" videos is showing you can do these things with minimal tools and no lift.
I had old Bilsteins on it that were shot. The new ones were about $125 a piece. I didn't notice a significant difference in handling, only they didn't make a bunch of noise during cornering. Thanks for watching!
I carry air driven driver and sockets for these kinda jobs, but I also have several large box wrenches. Much safer than using a crescent wrench. The advantage of owning a DP is air supply.
Yep, a DP has it's advantages in that respect, for sure. But for as much as I'm going to work on mine, I don't see the need to carry too many tools. With that being said, I definitely need a large set of box end wrenches!
Nice Job !! Thank You !!!
You bet!
It may have been an illusion but the new shocks look bigger/beefier than the older ones. Is that the case? I bet those old ones were shot after the trips to Alaska and Baja.
They have a little bit larger bore. They have been working good so far, but not what I would call a noticeable difference.
Would like to see a video of the rear shock install. Mine has a HUGE pumpkin and very little room to move.
I will be doing the rears, but not in the near future. The little room to move is what makes it a pain!
Very nice and succinct video Paul. HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT THE SUMO SPRINGS TO HELP ELIMINATE THE SIDE TO SIDE MOTION that sometimes happens when going over bumps or do you think the new shocks will take care of that?
Do you have the SUMO Springs Chuck? The only time I notice huge swaying is pulling out of parking lots, but not too much rolling down the road. The shocks will only help sway a tiny bit. Our front right was toast and the coach was dipping hard to the right in a left hand turn.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena I don't have the Sumo springs but have been thinking of adding them. I notice the rocking when driving and changing lanes where there are different levels.
Did you use any kind of jack-stands or anything, or just lift up the chassis with the built-in hydraulic jacks?
You can put the jack under the spring. Not the schock and its pretty easy yo remove the dhock that way
It depends on if the shock is fully extended or not. If the shock is still trying to extend, holding the spring won't relieve the pressure on the bolt. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you are saying.
Great video Paul. I was going to get new shocks put on our MH and now I’m going to do it my self. Thanks👍
Make sure you have the big sockets and a good pry bar Craig! You got this!
I use a ratchet tie down strap to compress the shock. Much easier than the jack
Remember not to torque the bolts that run through the shock until vehicle is on ground level and off jacks, also follow torque specs for rear and front shock since weight may vary , well at least in cars or small pickups, thanks for the tip on raising the leaf spring, I would bolt the top cut the strap and let the shock land on the jack then raise the shock, to line up to the bottom bolt, next time Ill try your method
Thanks for the tips FW!
What type of Bilstein shocks were they?Was it a 60mm shocks?
That was a long time ago and I don't remember at this point Ingi. Sorry.
How about naming it, "Paul's Mr. Fix-it (Experiment), School of Bleeding Knuckles & New Cuss Words" (?)
LOLOL ... I LIKE that idea !! :)
You guys rock!
the bilstein 46's were replaced by 5100's. The latter having thicker pistons, and thus, having more damping. What are your thoughts on the new shock absorbers?
I honestly didn't notice a major difference.
Thanks for the video! Looks simple enough, with a good bit of muscle work. I wonder if tying a strap around the old shock before removing would make it easier? I mean jack it up 1/2" then strap, then you have 1/2" to stretch the strap. Ok, perhaps 1" is needed. What can you use for a strap? How about a pipe clamp? What safety do you use to jack up the motor home? or is the tire still on the ground?
A strap would work. Anything to hold the shock from extending before you need it to. The tire is still on and touching the ground so it's a pretty safe process.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena There must be a lot of room under there to work with the tire still down. I cannot stress how important safety is, there are just so many other videos about people going under a vehicle that's only held up by a jack. Every video should have a short blurb to remind others that jack stands & tire chocks are necessary.
you did not tell why should we dump the stock shocks?
I didn't say dump your stock shocks, I said dump your old shocks. You should only get rid of your shocks if they are not doing their job.
I like that kind of video great job Paul
Thanks Roy!
Good job Paul ! Thanks for the DIY . ;)
Thanks Joan!
Just got done. Tools you need: 2 - 1 1/8 sockets (1/2 or 3/4" drive), ratchet and breaker bar, 1 1/8 combo wrench. 2 washers on top? / 3 washers on bottom? Why not 3 and 3 washers?, pay attention.
I don't remember having more than one washer top and bottom, but that was a while ago. I hope yours made more of a difference than mine did.
Have you installed "SumoSprings" OEM Bump Stop enhancement replacement? They make them for the F53 Chassis and will definitely help with the side to side rocking. Happy Trails.
I have not...I think Kevin has them. To be honest, I don't notice that much side to rocking in our coach, except pulling out of driveways and things.
Good job. I have a F53
Thanks Howard!
You didn’t mention why you determined that the old shocks needed replacement and if there was any improvement
Great job and outstanding diy video
Thanks John!
Nice job Paul thx for sharing👍🏾
Thanks Jerry!
What size are the nuts and bolt?
I'm sorry rod, but I did this 5 years ago, so I don't remember the size of the nuts and bolts. A quick Google search should get you your answer. Good luck!
@@LifeWithPaulLorena thanks
Use PB Blaster to loosen tight bolts.
Grease bolts helps on installation, lock tite is a definite requirement.
Torque to factory specs.
Please cost of the shocks
The price is going to be much different than when this was shot a few years ago. Jump online and find the ones that fit your RV. The price will be there.
Great and helpfull video this one maid my day and plans for this up coming diy thank you
Thanks!
Thanks for making this video.
Wouldn’t it be better to loosen both bolts then remove the bolts and move the shock?
There isn't much space under there. In my opinion, if you're in one place you want to stay there a while. Moving back and forth requires some gymnastics! Lol!
Great Job Paul, hope you let us know if you feed any improvement in driving.
Hi Jay, the coach was dipping hard to the right during left hand turns. It helped that, but overall it wasn't a dramatic ride improvement.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena Thanks Paul, looking forward to you and Lorena adventures this summer.
Great stuff man. naturally the guy at the dealership is going to want $130-$150 per hr. because their technicians All have PH.D's in Bodyshop and Mechanic Technology.
Recommend getting a impact driver & a Centre punch for removing the bolts.
I've got a center punch Ade, but if I worry that I hit it with a center punch and then it drops bad things might happen. I had impact drivers and all the tools I need in my house. I don't want to carry all that with us on the road for the little amount we will use them.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena WHY CAN'T folks realize that you "can't possibly CARRY" all those tools, and a compressor, hoses, etc with you, on the road .....???????????? Sorry, but it BAFFLES ME .....
HaHAHAHa Paul the only guy I know that can break a sweat picking his nose doing a "DIYer". Priceless !!!
Postscript;
Seen any UFO"s or aliens lately? I have not either. LOL
Somebody has to do it! Lol!
@@LifeWithPaulLorena I broke a sweat just watching. LOL
Great DIY video. You knocked it out of the park. I would have used some Anti Seize Compound on the mounting bolts.
I threw the WD40 on it after it was too late...ah yes, the hazards of trying to video stuff! Lol!
Wanna see the camper. What do you have. ??
Hey Jeff! It's a 2006 Fleetwood Flair. It's in a bunch of our other videos.
is there a website that can help you find right size shocks for rv?
If you have the F53 chassis, all of the auto parts store websites have them. They probably have them for the Chevy Workhorse chassis as well. As far as diesel pushers you would have to check with the manufacturer of the frame.
I'm thinking that Ford already did the research and installed the best. Just replace with same that is on yours. Better yet... leave the old ones on and add new identical ones. All you need is longer bolts from tractor supply. Quad shocks make a significant difference.
Looks like a good job for a real mechanic. In fact, ANY suspension work IMO is good to have a real mechanic do the work on. Don't like crawling around the dirt all sweaty especially with all the flies around.
There is no doubt you're going to get dirty! And the flies sucked! Lol!
3:43 DO you ever lube your grease fittings? The grease cover should be bulged out and filled with grease.
It was just done recently, but I don't do it every month.
hat make & model # shock absorbers did you put in Paul ?
We used Bilstein Bob. Whatever model was for our rig! :)
Great 👍 job Paul
Thanks Laurie!
Was it $150 total? Probably for each shock, right?
Per shock, but I bought them at a local parts store. About $100 for the Bilstein online.
What size socket did you use?
That was a long time ago Larry so I don't remember. Yours may be different and it's easily accessible to check it quick.
If you have added a rear anti sway bar you can't remove the bottom bolt first.
Replace the with Koni and you will be amazed. I’m on my second set.
Thanks for sharing the info and the video 👍
Thanks Lloyd!
You don't need the jack. Do the top one first and you can just pull the shock down with your hand and pull the bolt out.
Really?
Where was the part where you let people know to take bolts to bench grinder with wire wheel and clean bolt shank and threads of rust. Then what about grease on shank and threads when reinstalling the bolts so they save the rubber bushings and the threads don't rust.
If your going to show something please show it done correctly.
Well let's see mister know it all. There wasn't any rust to remove on a mystical bench grinder that wouldn't be available to the average person trying to do this else they are on the road. The nuts came off and went on by hand fairly easily.The threads are in a metal bushing and don't directly touch any rubber parts. And last if you put grease on the threads you might have a bolt back out and lose a shock going down the road. Just because it's your way doesn't make it, the correct way. I appreciate your thoughtful comment though. Have a great day!
Great job! And while filming. You said $150 for the shocks. Is that for all of them or each?
That is each Cecilia...you can get the Bilstein online for about $100.
I found the Bilstein shocks at Summit Racing for $87.00 that fits my P30 chassis. It was around $30.00 cheaper per shock than anywhere else online.
Have you done the CHF? If yes, did you think it improved the handling/drivability?
It was already done when we bought the coach, so I can't say Robin.
Its a truck Chassis there is no easy DIY on commercial vehicles.
It's all going to be 7/10 difficulty or above.
Just removing the tire is a workout 6/10
Even the lug nuts weigh a ton! :D
Don't use those harbor freight Jack Stands!
There were no jack stands harmed during the making of this video. 😃
A smarter thing to do is go to Tractor supply and buy some longer bolts and just ADD the new shocks. Keep the old ones on and with quad shocks you will have a much much better ride. I promise!
nice job. I need to change mine soon
Thanks Don!
1991 fleetwood southwind f53 need part #
Could you give me the part number?
Kristi, I did that a long time ago so I don't remember the part number, but there is a link in the description.
I was just quoted $480 to replace the front shocks on my F53 chassis by my RV dealer. I asked what brand and they said they had no idea which shock the distributor would send. I said...... no thanks.
Hey Tom! That's not too bad I guess, but you can find these Bilstein (great brand) shocks online for $100 each or less online, so figure $280 in labor...nevermind, with the tools they have it will take them less than an hour...holy crap! The other brand you might want to look at are the Koni.
Do you think Koni is better than Bilstein? Which one has soft feeling instead of hardness
This is simple but requires a lot ... very lot of effort because the nuts are torqued extremely tight. Get a 4 ft cheater bar!
Once the nuts are loose a half round an impact wrench will remove them in seconds
I paid last year a truck shop $140 to replace all 4 and they put the rears on upside down (confirmed with Monroe). Never again
Sorry to hear that, but that's why I tend to do this stuff myself. You would think they know better. It's pretty obvious which way they go.
5 minutes each with impact
You wish... breaking those over torque bolts is anything but easy. Once they are a half round the impact wrench makes it fast. Also even with the strap the holes aren't going to light up like they did in this video.
cool video talk
Thanks Scotty!
your welcome
A dab of silicon grease for the bolts so it will not rust up again.
Agreed.
All 4 shock's installed in SSF, Ca. 94080 a place called Traps almost $1,100.00
Wow!
Sounds like a “Trap”.
Make it easy on yourself and remove the front wheels. You can sit on a bucket on the outside and do the front much much easier.
When I bought my Winnebago new it was a option to get Bilstien shocks which I got. 3 yrs ago I was having a terrible time keeping it on the road and when I got home I found on of the front shocks had not resistance (no oil leak though) Call Bilstien to get it warranted (life time warranty) and they told me "because the factory put them on we don't warranty them" I said I paid to have them added as an option but they wouldn't give. As far as I am concerned Bilstien has a shitty customer service and warranty policy. I won't buy their product ever again.
I hear ya Alan! All it takes is one bad experience and you can get turned off a brand in a hurry! If they are "Lifetime Warranty" who did they expect to warranty them? That's odd! Sorry that had to happen to you. Safe travels!
"Yes it is, and don't call me Shirley..."
And if you can, use a air-ratchet/air tools!!
An air ratchet is ideal, but carrying ALL the tools you need is tough in an RV, so I try to do it with old school basics. Not only that, firing up an air ratchet in a campground, is usually frowned upon! 😃
And you took out Bilsteins and replaced with What shocks??? and a guy below says the Milwaukee cordless 1/2 inch impact driver is valuable... IF my RV moves. it goes with.. just sayin..
I actually Prefer a Steel Pipe, two feet long, that fits over the Handle of a Big Torque wrench, as it has many Uses beside being a "LEVER" to help undo a Stuck Nut/Bolt? (Tire thumper/persuader/roller to move heavy stuff/etc)
@@Streamer687 and my aluminum 2 ton floor jack. sits in my maintenance bay..
I put Bilsteins back in. The aftermarket have a bit bigger piston than stock. I also looked at the Koni. The one on the right was bad. Making a left turn it would dip hard to the right. I don't notice much of a difference other than the dip stopped.
As I said to a few folks, the problem I have with an impact wrench is the noise. I don't want to disturb anyone. We were in the "tent" area at the campground I did that in. Imagine on a Saturday afternoon while everyone was BBQing, I fire up an impact driver! Braaaaaaa, braaaaaaa, braaaaaa.....I couldn't do it! Lol!
Neil...always have a pipe handy! Doubles as protection too! Lol!
Captain...I carry a floor jack, as well.
Results would have been nice
All you had to do was ask nicely...didn't notice a while lot of difference.
Just because you have difficulty accessing something does not mean the engineers were unaware of the issue. They have constraints. Don't be so arrogant.
👍
✌
They don't line up. You will save time by just putting a ratchet strap on them.
No, I will not be doing this.
Lol...it's not for everyone, for sure!
Don't quit your day job!
Your working to hard why jack it on the for removal
camping world to install $76.00 per shock. California