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Thank you very much for covering these suspension components! They look to be well worth their money for additional comfort and safety. I am kind of surprised that the manufacturer doesn't include some of these additions. It would make their product just that much better out of the factory.
Thanks, Alan! You are right! Until 2020 Ford had not made any significant changes to the chassis. In 2020 they upgraded the sway control bars, shocks and bumpers. They also replaced the Triton 6.8 liter V-10 with a 7.3 Liter V-8 engine. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks for all the good information. I just came home with a 2019 precept 29V. We love the floor plan, however, when I got home last night I realized that it is sagging to the left. The unit has one huge slide on the left/driver side of the RV. So, there’s a lot of extra weight on that side. I’m about to make a video for the dealer and for Jayco. I haven’t decided yet if I’m going to try to get my money back. I know I bought it as is with no warranty but it was less than 24 hours ago. It did have an inspection but the inspector didn’t mention anything about the suspension. It drives great. I mean, it drives as well as my 2010 Winnebago vista did. I didn’t notice that it was leaning to the left because the dealer had it set up on the leveler when I arrived. And then I took it for a test drive and it drives great. Anyway, I was wondering if you had any thoughts about how to modify this suspension to help adjust for the additional weight on the driver side? It seems like this could be a safety issue. There’s so much extra weight on the rear tires on the left side and also on the front left wheel, I would be concerned about having a blowout at some point. You can already tell that the tires look like they’re under a lot of weight. I’ll share a link to my RUclips video once I get it done later today. In the meantime, just wondering if you had any thoughts. Thanks again for your video channel. I just subscribed and I look forward to checking in with you later today.
Wow! Great job and great info Brian! Will have to put you on speed dial to ask for your advice with projects like this when when we go full time. Thanks! Michael 👍
Good video. I see you have a set of headers. I installed a banks kit and it made a huge difference in power but the only time it makes a mileage difference is the times my wife drives . She managed over 9mpg in Nevada. I was looking at whether to put a trac-bar on the rear of my Class C . The front is independent coils so doesn't need it. Thanks for the input.
Hi Bob! 9-10 is pretty much what our coach gets. Not sure what the mileage was before the addition of the Banks kit, but the owner said there was a noticeable improvement in power as well. Thanks for watching!
Wow, we also have the SnapPads. We love them. We found that good tires with correct tire pressure and a wheel alignment made a significant difference. We also did the "Cheap Handling Fix" to the front a few weeks after and that helped further. We also put in the Roadmaster stabilizer a couple of months later but haven't noticed any difference as yet. With your handling mods, did you test drive after each mod to see what helped what, and what didn't make much of a difference?
DrinkinSlim The Sumo Springs, anti-sway bars and the safetplus made the most noticeable improvement on handling. The rear track bar may have made the least improvement. Rigs with longer rear overhang will probably have more improvement on tail wag.
No, but the changes are dramatic over the stock setup. This said, I would recommend adding the safetplus and replacing the front anti-sway brace first to see how much that improves the ride. If you need more control or comfort then add the sumo springs, additional rear anti-sway brace, then track bar. In that order. Hope this helps!
Where did you get your alignment done? was it on a rack/machine or was it manual adjustment with a tape measure? I have a new to me 2003 Monaco Knight and Just came back from a 1K trip and it drove terrible.
I always have it aligned at a heavy duty truck shop or a service shop that is knowledgeable of the chassis and coach characteristics. Don’t rely on a generic tire shop to do the alignment.
You realize you're going to cost me money Brian! Lol! What's weird is I honestly don't feel a ton of sway in our coach or wandering when driving. Leaving parking lots, of course, we get the "toss everything out of the cupboards" sway, but not while driving. It may just be I don't know what I don't know. Thanks bud!
Yeah, It can get ridiculous chasing the demon. If you're not getting a ton of sway or rocking when big rigs pass, then I'd probably just go with the Sumo Springs. They fix a lot of ill's, improve the ride dramatically and all but eliminate the "toss everything out of the cupboards" sway.
I have a 07 Forestriver Georgetown, just came thru Washoe Valley wind blowing me everywhere, that’s Reno area. Will Sumo springs stop moving me around. Great video.
Keith Schwaiger That’s a tough question to answer without knowing the condition of you existing equipment. In general, Sumo Springs will increase control and stabilize sway. If I were you I would probably start with an rear auxiliary anti-sway bar as well as a larger front anti-sway bar. If you already have those then you might want to go with Sumo Springs. My coach is so much more comfortable and easier to drive.
Thanks so much for the video, I plan on doing every single one of the upgrades you did when I buy my new rig. Only one thing I’m not sure of, where can I get those polyurethane washers you were talking about?
thanks so much for this upload and your explanation. It is really well done and very helpful. We are looking at a 2007 Mirada on the F53. the dealer was saying that it gets pushed around a lot and tried to steer us away. Your video has me convinced to go ahead and buy, then use your tips to get me to be OK with the ride. One question I have is what upgrade would be the first to do? Thanks again, really well done
Hi Robert! Welcome to our channel and thanks a bunch for the kind words. The Coachman Miranda is a solid coach for sure. How many miles does the coach have on it? The easiest and simplest upgrade to do first would be to replace the factory front anti-sway bar and add an auxiliary rear ant-sway bar. Start with front and see what results you get. I’d be willing to bet it would help a bunch. Then add the rear anti-sway bar if you’re not satisfied. Another key component in ride quality are the shocks. If they are original then I would have them replaced.
@@LyfUninterrupted Hi Lyf, thanks for the quick response coach has 40192 on the clock it's an 07 asking 29k. Needs some updating stickers are shot needs a good buff fabric is let's say, dated I hear good things about the F53 with V10 I am not a mechanic but can do most repairs myself.
Great Video! I’m curious to know if any of these mods reduced road noise level in the cab and improved the overall comfort and cushion. We have a 2016 holiday rambler admiral and the impact on the smallest bumps in the road will shake and rattle the inside of the rig tremendously. I am Looking for a solution to soften up the ride and reduce vibration from the road.. any advice? Thanks again!
Hi Vincent. I assume you have a gas coach. The Sumo Springs definitely help soak up some of the road noise. Another tip is to make sure your tires are at the right pressures. Tires that are over inflated are firmer, which can translate noise and road anomalies to the coach. I try to find the sweet spot so that the tires are properly inflated but still not too rigid. Our coach is on a 20,500 pound chassis and I run all tires at 85 psi. That pressure is based on Goodyear tire pressure recommendations for the weight of each axle. Hope this helps.
Lyf Uninterrupted awesome and thanks for the tip! I actually lowered from 90 to 82 psi today and found that the coach had more sway. The ride is more comfortable but now more unstable. I guess 80 psi with your mods would be just right??
It's hard to say. Have you weighed your coach recently? If not, I would recommend you do that so you know exactly what pressures to run. Here's a link to some great info on tire pressures and coach weight: www.motorhome.com/motorhomes/motorhome-gear/weigh-to-go/. Do some more testing with tire pressures, but my guess is that your coach would benefit from aftermarket front and rear sway-bars. However, before you spend any money on anti-sway bars, try doing the "F-53 Cheap Handling Fix". There are plenty of videos on RUclips that show you how to do that. This simple adjustment to the front factory anti-sway bar may make a big difference in the handling of your coach. If that doesn't work, then you may want to go with a replacement front anti-sway bar and an auxiliary rear anti-sway bar like I did.
Don’t underinflate light truck tires. They’ll heat up and fail. They aren’t like car tires. They’re made to be run at optimum pressures, is what I’ve been told by mechanics. Bus driver, here.
Excellent work Brian! Do you miss flying planes? And I’m sure you miss you toolbox and air tools! Trust you and Shawnna are doing OK now that C-19 restrictions are lifting. Any updates on composting toilet?
Hi Jim! Yes, I miss flying terribly. Perhaps I can get back into the air soon. Not having my tools does limit what I can do on the road that's for sure. Shawnna and I are doing great. Thanks for asking. Here is a link to our composting toilet update video: ruclips.net/video/V87odr0nv0s/видео.html
Great question Ralph. I simply pressed/hammered them out using an old socket that fit. They came out pretty easily. Press/hammer the new ones in the same way.
Hi Carmen. The upgrades cost around $4000. Will worth the investment if you drive as much as we do. Diesel coaches generally handle much better and don’t require these kinds of upgrades. Diesel coaches cost much more to purchase and maintain. Hope this helps.
Will these upgrades work on 2016 Winnebago vista lx 35’on a f53 frame . Also are all f53 frames typical. You don’t have the part that bolts to the differential in your store
Hi Kevin. There most likely would be versions to fit your coach, but you need to check each component to verify fit before ordering them. As for the rear track bar, you can find it at www.supersteerparts.com.
Great video. I'm about 2 projects behind you but have already noticed a handling improvement. Did I notice headers on that engine? If so, are you happy with that addition? Thanks!
That’s great! Which upgrades have you installed? The previous owner installed a Banks Power Pack system. Headers, new air intake, 4 inch exhaust and engine tuner. He said he noticed a big difference after installation. I typically run no more than 65 mph towing our Jeep. Average fuel economy now is about 7.22 miles per gallons. Not sure how much better that is than stock. Our Jeep weighs considerably more than what the previous owner towed, so that is likely to make a big difference in fuel economy. I just bought an OBD engine tool that provides a ton of operating parameters, so on our next trip I’ll check out the horsepower output under load.
@@LyfUninterrupted , I've swapped out all the bushings, upgraded to Bilstein shocks, added the sumo springs, a steering stabilizer. (Gotten the front end aligned after). And added a bigger rear sway bar. Looking at engine mods next, not so much for extra gas mileage, ( which I'll pretty sure never see), but more for the torque when running up hills. Just driving out of LA we have those long grades going over the passes. Thanks for the reply. Oh, and I added a scan gauge to monitor engine functions. It's very helpful.
Our Jeep is right at 5000 lbs, so we’re a little under 1000 pounds of max combined GVWR. Speed tops out at about 45 mph and 3700 RPM when pulling long grades. Question on your Sumo Springs: have you noticed a bit harsher ride since installing them? Especially in the rear?
@@LyfUninterrupted my coach is a 2012. My rear AND front sumo springs look like your rear ones. (Not like the bumper snubber on your front). I also run 100 lbs air in my Bridgestone front tires and 80 in the 4 Michelin rear. It's no Cadillac, but it's not that harsh. Even if it were, I'd put up with that rather than "changing lanes" every time a semi went by. 🥴 Have you done anything to reduce the noise in the cockpit? I just installed Kill Mat sound deadened to the doghouse. (2 layers of 80mm). Dropped the noise by about 18 decibels. I'm thinking of applying it under the rug by the front seats. I have to take them out to reupholster them anyway....
Been looking at putting some of that under the dog house too. Good to know it drops the sound that well. Have also considered a product called Lizard Skin. They have a sound deadening material and heat barrier material that can be sprayed on the underside of the cockpit area.
Hi Pete! Thanks for watching. I would recommend starting with front and rear stabilizer bars. Cost should be around $800. Not sure about labor because I did all the work myself.
The biggest bang for the buck were the new front and rear anti-sway bars and the steering stabilizer. I always recommend installing those first, then go from there until the coach provides the level of smoothness you desire. The KONI shocks are much better than the stock Bilstein shocks...IMHO.
Hi, has anyone have much swaying on a MH with a duel axle on the rear. Looking at a 02 tropical 35ft. v10 ford with duel axle in the rear, thanks for your help, Chuck
@@LyfUninterruptedYes and actually ordered the parts which a certified RV mechanic told me it will not work on my class A!! I had even given my Vin# to correctly get the parts!! It's been a complete hassle since!! Etrailer assured me that I ordered correctly and have the confirmation to prove it!!
The cheap handling fix often times turns out to be an expensive repair. Many have reported that the links end up breaking with damage done to the chassis. We would recommend starting with a large front anti-seat bar. See how that changes the handling, then move to a rear auxiliary anti-sway bar. Often times this is enough to improve the ride substantially.
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Well done video. Yeah we have the worst roads in the world. SAD!!!!
Thank you very much for covering these suspension components! They look to be well worth their money for additional comfort and safety. I am kind of surprised that the manufacturer doesn't include some of these additions. It would make their product just that much better out of the factory.
Thanks, Alan! You are right! Until 2020 Ford had not made any significant changes to the chassis. In 2020 they upgraded the sway control bars, shocks and bumpers. They also replaced the Triton 6.8 liter V-10 with a 7.3 Liter V-8 engine. Thanks for watching!
Great information. I just bought a 31ft 2000 National Seaview from my parents who had it forc19 years. I will definitely be doing these upgrades.
👍 Let is know how the upgrades work for you!
Great video. Thanks for all the good information. I just came home with a 2019 precept 29V. We love the floor plan, however, when I got home last night I realized that it is sagging to the left.
The unit has one huge slide on the left/driver side of the RV. So, there’s a lot of extra weight on that side. I’m about to make a video for the dealer and for Jayco. I haven’t decided yet if I’m going to try to get my money back. I know I bought it as is with no warranty but it was less than 24 hours ago. It did have an inspection but the inspector didn’t mention anything about the suspension. It drives great. I mean, it drives as well as my 2010 Winnebago vista did. I didn’t notice that it was leaning to the left because the dealer had it set up on the leveler when I arrived. And then I took it for a test drive and it drives great.
Anyway, I was wondering if you had any thoughts about how to modify this suspension to help adjust for the additional weight on the driver side?
It seems like this could be a safety issue. There’s so much extra weight on the rear tires on the left side and also on the front left wheel, I would be concerned about having a blowout at some point. You can already tell that the tires look like they’re under a lot of weight.
I’ll share a link to my RUclips video once I get it done later today. In the meantime, just wondering if you had any thoughts. Thanks again for your video channel. I just subscribed and I look forward to checking in with you later today.
Hi there! Thanks for reaching out. Send me an email to LyfUninterrupted@gmail.com and I’ll provide my phone number so we can discuss.
F53 needs all this for sure..dont leave home without it
It drives and rides so much better! Thanks for watching!
Very good video. I need to do this on my Class A RV. Have all of the same issues.
Start small then expand until you no longer see an improvement!
Thank you once again. Very informative
Glad you liked it Tim!
Wow! Great job and great info Brian! Will have to put you on speed dial to ask for your advice with projects like this when when we go full time. Thanks! Michael 👍
Thanks Michael. Doing all that work really paid off. I’m happy to help any way I can, so be sure to reach out if you have any questions.
Good video. I see you have a set of headers. I installed a banks kit and it made a huge difference in power but the only time it makes a mileage difference is the times my wife drives . She managed over 9mpg in Nevada. I was looking at whether to put a trac-bar on the rear of my Class C . The front is independent coils so doesn't need it. Thanks for the input.
Hi Bob! 9-10 is pretty much what our coach gets. Not sure what the mileage was before the addition of the Banks kit, but the owner said there was a noticeable improvement in power as well. Thanks for watching!
love that diff bar, never seen that before. got a 1988 class a chevy p30 & doing remodel & upgrades. looking for cheap sway bars.....
👍 Thanks for watching and good luck with the RV reno!
Wow, we also have the SnapPads. We love them. We found that good tires with correct tire pressure and a wheel alignment made a significant difference. We also did the "Cheap Handling Fix" to the front a few weeks after and that helped further. We also put in the Roadmaster stabilizer a couple of months later but haven't noticed any difference as yet. With your handling mods, did you test drive after each mod to see what helped what, and what didn't make much of a difference?
DrinkinSlim The Sumo Springs, anti-sway bars and the safetplus made the most noticeable improvement on handling. The rear track bar may have made the least improvement. Rigs with longer rear overhang will probably have more improvement on tail wag.
Any Demo on the changes in the suspension?
No, but the changes are dramatic over the stock setup. This said, I would recommend adding the safetplus and replacing the front anti-sway brace first to see how much that improves the ride. If you need more control or comfort then add the sumo springs, additional rear anti-sway brace, then track bar. In that order.
Hope this helps!
Where did you get your alignment done? was it on a rack/machine or was it manual adjustment with a tape measure? I have a new to me 2003 Monaco Knight and Just came back from a 1K trip and it drove terrible.
I always have it aligned at a heavy duty truck shop or a service shop that is knowledgeable of the chassis and coach characteristics. Don’t rely on a generic tire shop to do the alignment.
You realize you're going to cost me money Brian! Lol! What's weird is I honestly don't feel a ton of sway in our coach or wandering when driving. Leaving parking lots, of course, we get the "toss everything out of the cupboards" sway, but not while driving. It may just be I don't know what I don't know. Thanks bud!
Yeah, It can get ridiculous chasing the demon. If you're not getting a ton of sway or rocking when big rigs pass, then I'd probably just go with the Sumo Springs. They fix a lot of ill's, improve the ride dramatically and all but eliminate the "toss everything out of the cupboards" sway.
Where did you find the bushing for the down links on the front sway bar?
Hi John. Those are available at eTrailer.com.
Thanks
I have a 07 Forestriver Georgetown, just came thru Washoe Valley wind blowing me everywhere, that’s Reno area. Will Sumo springs stop moving me around. Great video.
Keith Schwaiger That’s a tough question to answer without knowing the condition of you existing equipment. In general, Sumo Springs will increase control and stabilize sway. If I were you I would probably start with an rear auxiliary anti-sway bar as well as a larger front anti-sway bar. If you already have those then you might want to go with Sumo Springs. My coach is so much more comfortable and easier to drive.
Thanks so much for the video, I plan on doing every single one of the upgrades you did when I buy my new rig. Only one thing I’m not sure of, where can I get those polyurethane washers you were talking about?
Hi Phil! Good call! I think I got the bushing kit from eTrailer.com.
thanks so much for this upload and your explanation. It is really well done and very helpful. We are looking at a 2007 Mirada on the F53. the dealer was saying that it gets pushed around a lot and tried to steer us away. Your video has me convinced to go ahead and buy, then use your tips to get me to be OK with the ride. One question I have is what upgrade would be the first to do? Thanks again, really well done
Hi Robert! Welcome to our channel and thanks a bunch for the kind words. The Coachman Miranda is a solid coach for sure. How many miles does the coach have on it? The easiest and simplest upgrade to do first would be to replace the factory front anti-sway bar and add an auxiliary rear ant-sway bar. Start with front and see what results you get. I’d be willing to bet it would help a bunch. Then add the rear anti-sway bar if you’re not satisfied. Another key component in ride quality are the shocks. If they are original then I would have them replaced.
@@LyfUninterrupted Hi Lyf, thanks for the quick response coach has 40192 on the clock it's an 07 asking 29k. Needs some updating stickers are shot needs a good buff fabric is let's say, dated I hear good things about the F53 with V10 I am not a mechanic but can do most repairs myself.
I really like the Triton V10 too. Good luck with the coach and be sure to let me know what upgrades you make.
Great Video! I’m curious to know if any of these mods reduced road noise level in the cab and improved the overall comfort and cushion. We have a 2016 holiday rambler admiral and the impact on the smallest bumps in the road will shake and rattle the inside of the rig tremendously. I am Looking for a solution to soften up the ride and reduce vibration from the road.. any advice? Thanks again!
Hi Vincent. I assume you have a gas coach. The Sumo Springs definitely help soak up some of the road noise. Another tip is to make sure your tires are at the right pressures. Tires that are over inflated are firmer, which can translate noise and road anomalies to the coach. I try to find the sweet spot so that the tires are properly inflated but still not too rigid. Our coach is on a 20,500 pound chassis and I run all tires at 85 psi. That pressure is based on Goodyear tire pressure recommendations for the weight of each axle. Hope this helps.
Lyf Uninterrupted awesome and thanks for the tip! I actually lowered from 90 to 82 psi today and found that the coach had more sway. The ride is more comfortable but now more unstable. I guess 80 psi with your mods would be just right??
It's hard to say. Have you weighed your coach recently? If not, I would recommend you do that so you know exactly what pressures to run. Here's a link to some great info on tire pressures and coach weight: www.motorhome.com/motorhomes/motorhome-gear/weigh-to-go/. Do some more testing with tire pressures, but my guess is that your coach would benefit from aftermarket front and rear sway-bars. However, before you spend any money on anti-sway bars, try doing the "F-53 Cheap Handling Fix". There are plenty of videos on RUclips that show you how to do that. This simple adjustment to the front factory anti-sway bar may make a big difference in the handling of your coach. If that doesn't work, then you may want to go with a replacement front anti-sway bar and an auxiliary rear anti-sway bar like I did.
Don’t underinflate light truck tires. They’ll heat up and fail. They aren’t like car tires. They’re made to be run at optimum pressures, is what I’ve been told by mechanics. Bus driver, here.
Excellent work Brian! Do you miss flying planes? And I’m sure you miss you toolbox and air tools! Trust you and Shawnna are doing OK now that C-19 restrictions are lifting. Any updates on composting toilet?
Hi Jim! Yes, I miss flying terribly. Perhaps I can get back into the air soon. Not having my tools does limit what I can do on the road that's for sure. Shawnna and I are doing great. Thanks for asking. Here is a link to our composting toilet update video: ruclips.net/video/V87odr0nv0s/видео.html
Hi. How did you get the old bushings out of the end links?
Great question Ralph. I simply pressed/hammered them out using an old socket that fit. They came out pretty easily. Press/hammer the new ones in the same way.
What's the cost of all this upgrade? Are Disel pucher better to drive? Will I need this upgrade for a diesel rv?
Hi Carmen. The upgrades cost around $4000. Will worth the investment if you drive as much as we do. Diesel coaches generally handle much better and don’t require these kinds of upgrades. Diesel coaches cost much more to purchase and maintain. Hope this helps.
Will these upgrades work on 2016 Winnebago vista lx 35’on a f53 frame . Also are all f53 frames typical. You don’t have the part that bolts to the differential in your store
Hi Kevin. There most likely would be versions to fit your coach, but you need to check each component to verify fit before ordering them.
As for the rear track bar, you can find it at www.supersteerparts.com.
5 years, long time. How much then? all the part #'s?
Great Video Partner.
Glad you enjoyed it. 👍
Can you give a ballpark of what all these parts cost, tot Thanks
Somewhere around $4000 if not mistaken.
Great video. I'm about 2 projects behind you but have already noticed a handling improvement. Did I notice headers on that engine? If so, are you happy with that addition? Thanks!
That’s great! Which upgrades have you installed? The previous owner installed a Banks Power Pack system. Headers, new air intake, 4 inch exhaust and engine tuner. He said he noticed a big difference after installation. I typically run no more than 65 mph towing our Jeep. Average fuel economy now is about 7.22 miles per gallons. Not sure how much better that is than stock. Our Jeep weighs considerably more than what the previous owner towed, so that is likely to make a big difference in fuel economy. I just bought an OBD engine tool that provides a ton of operating parameters, so on our next trip I’ll check out the horsepower output under load.
@@LyfUninterrupted , I've swapped out all the bushings, upgraded to Bilstein shocks, added the sumo springs, a steering stabilizer. (Gotten the front end aligned after).
And added a bigger rear sway bar.
Looking at engine mods next, not so much for extra gas mileage, ( which I'll pretty sure never see), but more for the torque when running up hills. Just driving out of LA we have those long grades going over the passes.
Thanks for the reply.
Oh, and I added a scan gauge to monitor engine functions. It's very helpful.
Our Jeep is right at 5000 lbs, so we’re a little under 1000 pounds of max combined GVWR. Speed tops out at about 45 mph and 3700 RPM when pulling long grades. Question on your Sumo Springs: have you noticed a bit harsher ride since installing them? Especially in the rear?
@@LyfUninterrupted my coach is a 2012. My rear AND front sumo springs look like your rear ones. (Not like the bumper snubber on your front). I also run 100 lbs air in my Bridgestone front tires and 80 in the 4 Michelin rear. It's no Cadillac, but it's not that harsh. Even if it were, I'd put up with that rather than "changing lanes" every time a semi went by. 🥴
Have you done anything to reduce the noise in the cockpit? I just installed Kill Mat sound deadened to the doghouse. (2 layers of 80mm). Dropped the noise by about 18 decibels. I'm thinking of applying it under the rug by the front seats. I have to take them out to reupholster them anyway....
Been looking at putting some of that under the dog house too. Good to know it drops the sound that well. Have also considered a product called Lizard Skin. They have a sound deadening material and heat barrier material that can be sprayed on the underside of the cockpit area.
Great review ! Next time discuss costs for parts & labor. This gear is pretty expensive & I hope to do it one job at a time
Hi Pete! Thanks for watching. I would recommend starting with front and rear stabilizer bars. Cost should be around $800. Not sure about labor because I did all the work myself.
What was the biggest improvement of all? Are the knoni's worth the money?
The biggest bang for the buck were the new front and rear anti-sway bars and the steering stabilizer. I always recommend installing those first, then go from there until the coach provides the level of smoothness you desire. The KONI shocks are much better than the stock Bilstein shocks...IMHO.
What is the first thing you would
Do with all the things you did
Front and rear anti-sway bars would be the place to start.
What did you spend on all the suspension upgrades?
It was somewhere around $4500. $1500 of that cost was for the Sumo Springs.
Lyf Uninterrupted thanks, we recently acquired a Moho on 24,000 chassis. I like your upgrades, I’m going to order same parts. Thank you
👍 Let us know how things work out with the upgrades!
Did you get them from Etrailer?
No. Most of the items are available in our Amazon Store. www.amazon.com/shop/lyfuninterrupted
Hi, has anyone have much swaying on a MH with a duel axle on the rear. Looking at a 02 tropical 35ft. v10 ford with duel axle in the rear, thanks for your help, Chuck
I'm not familiar with tag-axles, so I can't offer much guidance. Even so, I would think they would be a bit better in the swaying department.
I was told Safety plus will not work on my 2000 winnebago brave 35C!!
Sorry to her that Kellie. I did check on the website and your RV is not listed. Did you call the company to verify?
@@LyfUninterruptedYes and actually ordered the parts which a certified RV mechanic told me it will not work on my class A!! I had even given my Vin# to correctly get the parts!! It's been a complete hassle since!! Etrailer assured me that I ordered correctly and have the confirmation to prove it!!
the manufacturer should of already done all of this for the price they ask for when the RV is new, sucks they don't
The only thing your missing is a "CHF" treatment.
Hi Anthony. The "CHF" doesn't begin to address all the issues with the typical F53 chassis. That's why we created this video. Thanks for watching!
good video, good info, too much noise in the mic.
Sometimes shooting conditions aren't perfect. Thanks for watching.
I'll stick to the cheap handling fix, this stuff is way out of my price range
The cheap handling fix often times turns out to be an expensive repair. Many have reported that the links end up breaking with damage done to the chassis. We would recommend starting with a large front anti-seat bar. See how that changes the handling, then move to a rear auxiliary anti-sway bar. Often times this is enough to improve the ride substantially.