I love mechanical history, this video is great. Showing how a misconception started. Explaining the reasons for it existing. And describing how the misconception is being countered by new technologies. I love this type of info. Your goal to inform is honest and it staggers me to see how much effort is put into these videos. There are a lot of youtubers out there that can talk about nothing for ten minutes and it shows in their quality. You love this field and want to share it with others. I respect and appreciate your work immensely.
Awesome video D4A! I assumed sleeving was required on open deck engines but you make a good point about ECU tuning. 20 years ago, most tuning was done using "piggy-back" ECU's or rising rate FPRs which had zero knock control. I remember tuning my JR supercharged Miata and the instructions were to advance timing until there was audible detonation and then pull back 2 degrees. On hot days I could still hear it ping once in a while which was absolutely nerve racking. Again, awesome video and I love the editing :D
Also, it's not just tuning technology that has come a long way, we've made heart stopping discoveries in the world of materials science. There are VERY strong Al alloys.
@@12OclockLow There is actually a video on this channel where he talks about the different alumunium grades and their properties, though I forget which one it is. One thing I do remember is that the blend of silicon in the alloy makes a big difference to the overall strength. Also as mentioned, considerable improvements have been made in casting techniques which, while not increasing the strength of the raw material its self, does give you stronger components by eliminating air pockets and oxide layers within the parts. This, in combination with advances in CAD design means modern aluminium blocks can be made not only stronger than their ancestors, but lighter too.
open deck crank cases are traditionally a much more demanding job for the cylinder head gasked. The modern MLS gaskets also helped the open block design a lot. Open deck can be casted as dye casting (without water cores) which is very cost effective, this is the main driving force behind it (and better cooling).
There is also the issue of long term reliability. Dealing with a lot of open deck engines (Mostly Volvo Modular N and RN series) the main killer long term is cylinder oscillation, even with a MLS head gasket, they vibrate during opperation due to the latteral forces caused by rod-angle. So they fatigue. Typically inserting and welding in small supports to make it semi-closed makes a big difference, and inserting a block guard makes them hold up ALOT. For more extreme cases we use the "D5" block (Diesel variant of the "T5" block) and insert and weld a deck guard, then the block is good for 200Nm per cylinder.
Crazy good info on this engine boot camp. This channel is different from the others that just scratch the surface or give a 'mechanics' point of view (no offence to mechanics, you guys are great at what you do) which doesn't really explore the fundamentals or is more based off of experience. You communicate information in such a clear way and with such in depth explanations that I would give you 3 likes if I could. Amazing content, keep up the good work and I will be sure to follow the channel closely!
As beginner i've been trying to learn more about the engine rather than bolt on mods or other mods and your channel has taught me a lot about what I wanna know. Hope you hit a million+ followers one day you deserve it bro.
The major issue with open deck blocks isn't cracking or breaking the cylinder walls, it's that they eat head gaskets like crazy because the top deck surface of the cylinder walls move around and wear/tear through the head gaskets!
This channel has everything! I can understand everything easy af, his voice is somehow relaxing, and this channel has videos for every single bolt of a car! After watching all the videos uploaded here you can build a car your self from the beginning!! Love you so much!!!!
So agree with your point... that is a matter that always worried to engine fabricators. In the early 60s, Smokey Yunic always used to say: You need to avoid (damn) combustion detonation at all cost... that is a good advice now as was then. Good channel, keep the hard work... greetings!!
I've heard people describe the N54/N55 as the new 2JZ too, and while I do like BMW engines and they are definitely tuneable, I doubt whether there is much comparison between them in terms of overall reliability. The N54/55 have so many complexities that the 2JZ just doesn't have (and didn't need). Likewise the new B58, for which they decided to put all the timing gear at the back of the engine... WHY!? It may make good power (and decent MPG) but I sure don't fancy owning one out of warranty! Ditto the Ford Ecoboost /Ecoboom.
> The N54/55 have so many complexities that the 2JZ just doesn't have (and didn't need) And how exactly do you think these new engines meet emission and fuel consumption targets exactly? You think you can just snap your fingers and get a fuel efficient 2JZ? > Likewise the new B58, for which they decided to put all the timing gear at the back of the engine... WHY!? Weight distribution. With a chain drive that generally doesn't need to be changed for the lifetime of the engine. > Ditto the Ford Ecoboost /Ecoboom. That Ecoboom moniker was attributed by a bunch of uninformed couch warriors over a pretty small amount of cars affected by a coolant pipe issue which could blow up. It has nothing to do with the engine being open or closed deck, and a recall has been made. This is exactly like the Focus RS head gasket fitment issue which was blown out of proportion. People love talking about things they have no idea about.
@@xIcarus227 Yes thank you in case you chose to ignore it (or can't read) I did quite clearly say the N55 has complexities the 2JZ "DID NOT NEED"... Clearly because there is a difference of 20+ years in terms of the environmental standards the two engines were required to meet. I am quite well aware of why you could not manufacture the 2JZ today, thank you. And no, there is a lot more wrong with the Ford ecoboost than just a coolant pipe. And your patronising tone does you no favors either. Good day.
@@soundseeker63 > I did quite clearly say the N55 has complexities the 2JZ "DID NOT NEED"... Clearly because there is a difference of 20+ years in terms of the environmental standards the two engines were required to meet. So you claim the N55 didn't need these changes, but also claim it couldn't have ever been put into production without said changes due to emissions. So to conclude, it actually needed these changes else it wouldn't exist 😂 > And no, there is a lot more wrong with the Ford ecoboost than just a coolant pipe. I merely pointed out where the 'Ecoboom' moniker comes from, and why everyone using this term is jumping on the misinformation bandwagon, similar to those who say the EA888 engine is unreliable just because gen1 was poor in that regard. And actually, if you were to compare every budget turbo petrol engine from the late 2000s to early 2010s, you'll notice Ecoboosts were some of the most trouble-free - yet another piece of proof that you don't know what you're talking about. > And your patronising tone does you no favors either. Your ignorant statements don't do you favors either, yet here we are. Good day to you too.
@@xIcarus227 Can't tell if you're being sarcastic/ deliberately obtuse / trolling or whether you have some genuine issue with understanding written word but, either way, you've used a heck of a lot of words to say absolutely nothing and frankly, you are boring me now.
Dude. What you say is true, 100%. Richard Holdener proves what you say. In reality, if you plan on adding boost, you need to have sufficient fuel, and sufficient octane. E85 and 100+ octane really make a massive difference. #2 is timing. Start conservative, and work your way up, if adding timing doesn't add power, stop adding timing. #3 if you're going past 10 psi, you should add ring gap to the top ring. If you add ring gap, cam and springs, then boost, SBE 6.0 LS engines will go over a thousand horsepower. A cam(s) swapped K24 will push 600+ horsepower, no problem. Great content, keep up the goodness, my freind.
Thanks for the explanation. The 3.6L Pentastar V6 has an open deck block and I have wondered what the advantages and disadvantages are. Now I have a better understanding.
This is amazing. Could you do the same on modern ZF auto transmissions / modern ones? Edit: i know this is an engine bootcamp series but your dispelling fiction is amazing. People need to to know how strong and fast modern transmissions are becoming.
Love your videos! Just technical enough without being boring. Funny but not surprising that no EJ engines were featured 🤣 It seems to be the consensus that you need to go closed deck for anything over +100-150hp for us STi owners. Looking forward to seeing that video! 👍😊
@@alexanderbleichner3888 From what I've seen they were pretty disasterous from the factory! I wouldn't even think about tuning one of those things! lol A shame really as the rest of the car is pretty good.
Wow this was a great video! I predict this channel growing A LOT very soon. 100K by June? Probably. Keep up the great work and don't forget about me when you're a big dog!
Im in the proces of building a b20 vtec that i want to rev to 9k, so because of the long stroke and heavy piston block reinforcing is a must, im posting it, you drill holes from the outside and thread aluminum rod in to it to secure the cilinders in place.
Nice work my man! Green screen is an excellent addition. Maybe consider adding yourself in on clips of dyno runs, etc where you actually were not there; just for fun. Excellent work. Thanks for sharing!
There is a variation of the honda b series, the B20. with larger bores than the b16/18, the sleeve design was changed to a siamese style (all 4 cylinder sleeves joined together). Now, the larger bore made the cylinders slightly smaller, and weaker, and have been known to crack. The interesting thing with these however is that they can take a little bit of knock in the higher RPM, but knock in lower RPMs will almost always result in a cracked block, even NA! Yet if you can tune it right, they can hold 3 times the stock power. Theres more to a block than just the sheer size and shape of the metal, there must be some kind of resonance going on that isn't initially obvious.
For me it's open deck aluminum all the way.... Much more NA compression can be accomplished on pump gas, making for a far more volumetrically efficient engine
Your knowledge and speaking skills are superb. Additionally, the editing that you (or someone) puts into these vids is also superb. All around good stuff!
I have never seen an open deck cast iron, however the Chrysler 2.2/2.5 are "Semi" open on one side (front of car when transverse mounted), and closed all 3 other sides. And the Chrysler Neon 2.0 are Semi open, but in a different way. For Aluminum blocks, I have noticed the GM North Star V8s are actually open deck (were introduced in the 1990s!). Chrysler 2.7, and 3.2/3.5/4.0, are closed deck aluminum blocks, which is what I prefer!
There is actually a significant problem with closed engine decks (especially old ones) when applying boost. That is the cooling capability of the block, a partially or fully closed cooling channel can ruin a block FAST since it don't have much excess cooling capacity in any given area of the engine (the early SAAB turbo engines was notorious for this problem) an oil-cooler and modern oils help but if your engine is hot when you turn it of you risk hotspots on the cylinder walls.
Piston design and materials have allowed for a larger margin of error, too. Thicker ringlands, better forgings, and higher quality materials make surviving an ignition, boost or less than "as advertised" octane fuel problem, better in recent years. However, it is usually the human factor that destroys an engine. The desire for better track times or beating a competitor leads to higher boost levels until you find the limitations of your engine. It is called, "The Human Condition." As competitors, we like to "ride the edge." That is what makes life interesting!
The 1.6 EcoBoost engine is open deck but there are multiple people running 450bhp on a completely unopened block, though over time the cooling channel between the cilinders often fails, so I'd still rather get some sleeves installed when pushing for 450bhp
As a BMW guy, I have to add something, the video clip from 4:18 is not the N54, thats an M3 which had a S65, 4 liter V8 making 420 hp. the 335i is still a great car tho, could easily push it to 400 hp bone stock. But I have yet to see a over 1000hp S54, people pushed them to around 940hp but still... Don't get me wrong, I love BMW-s, but the aluminium open deck design can't hold even half the power a 2JZ block can... so even if it is a new engine, an Aluminium open deck design is still a weak design, great for cooling, but it sucks for tuning. That's why BMW enthusiasts worship the M50 engines so much an M50B25 is from the last cast iron, closed deck blocks BMW ever made, people stroke it to increase the displacement and turbo it.. to make over 1000hp, if you are looking for a cheap 2JZ/RB26 alternative, going with an M50 isn't a bad choice... just make sure your cooling is up to date. Another addition: The K20 can only make big power if you get the plate to make it a closed deck design. Over 400-500hp they tend to complain
Another awesome video! I don't know how I found your channel, but I'm glad I did! For ideas for future videos, would you be able to do the turbocharged Mazda BP-4W engine that was found in the Mazdaspeed Miata and Protege?
11:05 am cat back after being gone day & 1/2, but we were rained in for few days straight & real rained almost every day or gray whole yr on NOW 2/17/21'. He was whining few mins b4 we got to him say 10min window.
I have one caveat to this. The Volvo Modular 5 cylinder R blocks were prone to cylinder cracking or warping if you turned the boost up higher than 19psi UNLESS you had reinforcement right at the tops of the cylinders. After that, you could do over 25-28psi and see around 550bhp.
Look at boostedboiz, they’re running 1000 hp in an H22 which is an open block design,their problems were in using a stock accord 5 speed with no lsd which would only take around 720 wheel hp before stripping 3rd gear,the engine holds up fine without being built up much,only adding a big ass turbo and a tune will reap big power.
@@calebnation7797 Exactly. People seem to forget that when discussing which engines are best for tuning. The weakest link in most modern cars isn't the engine block at all! lol
soundseeker63 there’s a guy in a group I’m in running ~1200whp on a stock block (60psi of boost) which is just stoopid power for a 1.8 motor, but he had to drop so much money elsewhere in the drivetrain that’s it’s insane.
Very informative, thanks for the clip. There is a 'but' however and it's about open deck advantage, you've very clearly and concisely explained the advantage of closed vs. open and what mitigates the disadvantage of the open design but a design that's 'not as bad as you might have thought' is hardly a recommendation and hardly a justification for a manufacturer to adopt that design, so, that raises the question 'what is the advantage of the open deck?'. Clearly it's about additional cooling but an aluminium block dissipates heat better than iron anyway which lends weight to the argument for a closed or semi closed design, manufacturers (most of the time) know what they're doing, so, again, what exactly, or perhaps, how great is the benefit of the open deck?
As I mentioned in the video, the cost of production is a massive incentive for manufacturers to use the open deck design, and today they can more than ever because of all the reasons I mentioned in the video. Yes, ultimately a closed deck design is superior in terms of durability, but open decks are here, and will keep being ever more common probably, it's what we have and they're definitely not as bad as many think.
Another advantage of open deck design is that you can use the head gasket cheaply to "tune" coolant flow around the engine. For example, you might put larger coolant holes in the gasket towards the back of the block to encourage more coolant flow in this area which is normally hotter than the front of the block; or you might do the same to encourage greater coolant flow around the exhaust side of the cylinder head. Same advantage pretty much applies to a semi-open deck. Obviously if you're a manufacturer producing stock engines you'll get this right on a closed deck engine by machining correctly positioned coolant holes from the beginning, but if you then modify the engine for bigger power your requirements will change and it's a lot easier to modify a head gasket than a block.
The knowledge is great but the voice is what does it for me 😆😆😆 At night I put the videos on and fall asleep to the Boost School Series 😆😆😆 #DRIVING4ANSWERSASMRSLEEP
Closed deck has more surface area for head gasket sealing. That's the real main advantage. Greater distance between the cylinder and any passages=better sealing. And, anybody that builds boosted engines knows, keeping the head sealed is one of the hardest parts.
just a brainstorm idea, I know this will be expensive but what if you create a honeycomb mesh around the entire cylinder. this could potentially reinforce and strengthen uniformly around the cylinder while still cooling uniformly around the cylinder as well, I am also aware it would require a stronger water pump but I am sure that can be managed with a somewhat up sized pump.
4:46 you put Volvo t5, which happens to be one of the weaker Volvo engines when it comes to boost, the 2.3 is better for boost due to it being the same design but thicker cylinder walls
I'm lucky my car has a closed deck cast iron block, it's a 3.0L v6. If it was aluminum or closed deck, the abuse it took from having no coolant would have destroyed it. But all it needed was new headgaskets and it's as good as new.
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This channel is so underrated!
+1
By who?
ITS BETTER THEN DONUT MEDIA
Agreed only found it like 3 weeks ago and watch 1 vid at least every day
Fax
I love mechanical history, this video is great. Showing how a misconception started. Explaining the reasons for it existing. And describing how the misconception is being countered by new technologies. I love this type of info. Your goal to inform is honest and it staggers me to see how much effort is put into these videos. There are a lot of youtubers out there that can talk about nothing for ten minutes and it shows in their quality. You love this field and want to share it with others. I respect and appreciate your work immensely.
Thank you for that
Love the nuanced information on this channel. No bro-science here! Might we be getting an EJ video soon?
We might. I'll even tell you when. Next Iconic engines video is going to be something something and then right after that next up is the EJ.
@@d4a Haha, awesome. Subscribed.
Bro-science))
Agreed. Serious content, I Iike this chan!
Awesome video D4A! I assumed sleeving was required on open deck engines but you make a good point about ECU tuning. 20 years ago, most tuning was done using "piggy-back" ECU's or rising rate FPRs which had zero knock control. I remember tuning my JR supercharged Miata and the instructions were to advance timing until there was audible detonation and then pull back 2 degrees. On hot days I could still hear it ping once in a while which was absolutely nerve racking. Again, awesome video and I love the editing :D
Also, it's not just tuning technology that has come a long way, we've made heart stopping discoveries in the world of materials science. There are VERY strong Al alloys.
True! Should have elaborated on that more.
@@12OclockLow There is actually a video on this channel where he talks about the different alumunium grades and their properties, though I forget which one it is.
One thing I do remember is that the blend of silicon in the alloy makes a big difference to the overall strength. Also as mentioned, considerable improvements have been made in casting techniques which, while not increasing the strength of the raw material its self, does give you stronger components by eliminating air pockets and oxide layers within the parts. This, in combination with advances in CAD design means modern aluminium blocks can be made not only stronger than their ancestors, but lighter too.
Are you talking about titanium?
open deck crank cases are traditionally a much more demanding job for the cylinder head gasked. The modern MLS gaskets also helped the open block design a lot.
Open deck can be casted as dye casting (without water cores) which is very cost effective, this is the main driving force behind it (and better cooling).
Awesome video! This is becoming one of the best car channels on youtube. Very informative, thank you. Greetings from Czech Republic!
There is also the issue of long term reliability. Dealing with a lot of open deck engines (Mostly Volvo Modular N and RN series) the main killer long term is cylinder oscillation, even with a MLS head gasket, they vibrate during opperation due to the latteral forces caused by rod-angle. So they fatigue. Typically inserting and welding in small supports to make it semi-closed makes a big difference, and inserting a block guard makes them hold up ALOT. For more extreme cases we use the "D5" block (Diesel variant of the "T5" block) and insert and weld a deck guard, then the block is good for 200Nm per cylinder.
Crazy good info on this engine boot camp. This channel is different from the others that just scratch the surface or give a 'mechanics' point of view (no offence to mechanics, you guys are great at what you do) which doesn't really explore the fundamentals or is more based off of experience. You communicate information in such a clear way and with such in depth explanations that I would give you 3 likes if I could. Amazing content, keep up the good work and I will be sure to follow the channel closely!
As beginner i've been trying to learn more about the engine rather than bolt on mods or other mods and your channel has taught me a lot about what I wanna know. Hope you hit a million+ followers one day you deserve it bro.
The major issue with open deck blocks isn't cracking or breaking the cylinder walls, it's that they eat head gaskets like crazy because the top deck surface of the cylinder walls move around and wear/tear through the head gaskets!
This channel has everything! I can understand everything easy af, his voice is somehow relaxing, and this channel has videos for every single bolt of a car! After watching all the videos uploaded here you can build a car your self from the beginning!! Love you so much!!!!
So agree with your point... that is a matter that always worried to engine fabricators. In the early 60s, Smokey Yunic always used to say: You need to avoid (damn) combustion detonation at all cost... that is a good advice now as was then. Good channel, keep the hard work... greetings!!
I've heard people describe the N54/N55 as the new 2JZ too, and while I do like BMW engines and they are definitely tuneable, I doubt whether there is much comparison between them in terms of overall reliability. The N54/55 have so many complexities that the 2JZ just doesn't have (and didn't need). Likewise the new B58, for which they decided to put all the timing gear at the back of the engine... WHY!? It may make good power (and decent MPG) but I sure don't fancy owning one out of warranty! Ditto the Ford Ecoboost /Ecoboom.
> The N54/55 have so many complexities that the 2JZ just doesn't have (and didn't need)
And how exactly do you think these new engines meet emission and fuel consumption targets exactly? You think you can just snap your fingers and get a fuel efficient 2JZ?
> Likewise the new B58, for which they decided to put all the timing gear at the back of the engine... WHY!?
Weight distribution. With a chain drive that generally doesn't need to be changed for the lifetime of the engine.
> Ditto the Ford Ecoboost /Ecoboom.
That Ecoboom moniker was attributed by a bunch of uninformed couch warriors over a pretty small amount of cars affected by a coolant pipe issue which could blow up. It has nothing to do with the engine being open or closed deck, and a recall has been made.
This is exactly like the Focus RS head gasket fitment issue which was blown out of proportion. People love talking about things they have no idea about.
@@xIcarus227 Yes thank you in case you chose to ignore it (or can't read) I did quite clearly say the N55 has complexities the 2JZ "DID NOT NEED"... Clearly because there is a difference of 20+ years in terms of the environmental standards the two engines were required to meet.
I am quite well aware of why you could not manufacture the 2JZ today, thank you.
And no, there is a lot more wrong with the Ford ecoboost than just a coolant pipe.
And your patronising tone does you no favors either. Good day.
@@soundseeker63 > I did quite clearly say the N55 has complexities the 2JZ "DID NOT NEED"... Clearly because there is a difference of 20+ years in terms of the environmental standards the two engines were required to meet.
So you claim the N55 didn't need these changes, but also claim it couldn't have ever been put into production without said changes due to emissions.
So to conclude, it actually needed these changes else it wouldn't exist 😂
> And no, there is a lot more wrong with the Ford ecoboost than just a coolant pipe.
I merely pointed out where the 'Ecoboom' moniker comes from, and why everyone using this term is jumping on the misinformation bandwagon, similar to those who say the EA888 engine is unreliable just because gen1 was poor in that regard.
And actually, if you were to compare every budget turbo petrol engine from the late 2000s to early 2010s, you'll notice Ecoboosts were some of the most trouble-free - yet another piece of proof that you don't know what you're talking about.
> And your patronising tone does you no favors either.
Your ignorant statements don't do you favors either, yet here we are. Good day to you too.
@@xIcarus227 Can't tell if you're being sarcastic/ deliberately obtuse / trolling or whether you have some genuine issue with understanding written word but, either way, you've used a heck of a lot of words to say absolutely nothing and frankly, you are boring me now.
Dude. What you say is true, 100%. Richard Holdener proves what you say. In reality, if you plan on adding boost, you need to have sufficient fuel, and sufficient octane. E85 and 100+ octane really make a massive difference. #2 is timing. Start conservative, and work your way up, if adding timing doesn't add power, stop adding timing. #3 if you're going past 10 psi, you should add ring gap to the top ring. If you add ring gap, cam and springs, then boost, SBE 6.0 LS engines will go over a thousand horsepower. A cam(s) swapped K24 will push 600+ horsepower, no problem. Great content, keep up the goodness, my freind.
air cooled vs liquid cooled engines, also: great content
Thanks for the idea!
Other than small engines, air cooled was old and out of date technology in the 1930's. Water cooling is much better.
Absolutely phenomenal explanation. Never stop making these videos!
Thanks for the explanation. The 3.6L Pentastar V6 has an open deck block and I have wondered what the advantages and disadvantages are. Now I have a better understanding.
I love the way you say engine "Blaahck"!
Really enjoying your content and style of explanation. Hope you get more subs. Excellent channel.
This is amazing. Could you do the same on modern ZF auto transmissions / modern ones?
Edit: i know this is an engine bootcamp series but your dispelling fiction is amazing. People need to to know how strong and fast modern transmissions are becoming.
Such good information I love the green screen very helpful with the background information Great video keep it coming
Man... I am your fan!!! You remember me my dad, he could easily spend days talking about engine configurations, specs, tuning... keep it up!
Love your videos! Just technical enough without being boring. Funny but not surprising that no EJ engines were featured 🤣 It seems to be the consensus that you need to go closed deck for anything over +100-150hp for us STi owners. Looking forward to seeing that video! 👍😊
ive been hooked on this channel for the past few days. so glad I found it!
I laughed at FordEcoBlownGasket being capable of high boost.
Focus rs will cracked their block with more boost
@@alexanderbleichner3888 From what I've seen they were pretty disasterous from the factory! I wouldn't even think about tuning one of those things! lol
A shame really as the rest of the car is pretty good.
suby bois can relate
Remember guys, always buy good gaskets.
@@alexanderbleichner3888 Focus RS crack it's block with stock boost.
Ford focus rs have that same problem with there open deck block because of the headgasket
my favorite day of the week becouse your show
Your explanations are concise and easy to understand, thanks for teaching us petrol head newbies some new things!
Really good stuff man! These videos are killin' it.
That was a very extensive explanation. Thanks a lot!
Also thanks to the YT algorithm which sometimes does indeed seem to get things right ...
Wow this was a great video! I predict this channel growing A LOT very soon. 100K by June? Probably. Keep up the great work and don't forget about me when you're a big dog!
I'll never forget about ya!
Hooray! I'll be up there soon too. Just gotta make some magic like you. Hahaha.
@@802Garage There's no magic, just slave labor 😂😂 you have plenty of talent and a non-Russian accent, I see a bright future!
Hahaha shhh, you'll tell people the get rich quick RUclipsr secrets! 😂 It's your slave labor that creates the magic. 😬
Very interesting.Never knew anything about all this.
Im in the proces of building a b20 vtec that i want to rev to 9k, so because of the long stroke and heavy piston block reinforcing is a must, im posting it, you drill holes from the outside and thread aluminum rod in to it to secure the cilinders in place.
I got EJ20G closed deck what subaru havent done after 90s anymore even back then it was pretty rare.
I’m glad someone explained this
I'm glad you watched it!
Nice work my man! Green screen is an excellent addition. Maybe consider adding yourself in on clips of dyno runs, etc where you actually were not there; just for fun. Excellent work. Thanks for sharing!
I should! And then like cover my ears or do woot woot sounds lol
finally a channel where aw speaks with knowledge and logic of the issues. very good!
I'm glad you acknowledged you don't pronounce L's great job!!!
This channel has helped me so much with doing my build right
28k away from 100K keep it up
Love the green screen and the graphics. Nice addition to the great content.
Very useful bro , preciate it , keep going the good stuff
There is a variation of the honda b series, the B20. with larger bores than the b16/18, the sleeve design was changed to a siamese style (all 4 cylinder sleeves joined together). Now, the larger bore made the cylinders slightly smaller, and weaker, and have been known to crack. The interesting thing with these however is that they can take a little bit of knock in the higher RPM, but knock in lower RPMs will almost always result in a cracked block, even NA! Yet if you can tune it right, they can hold 3 times the stock power. Theres more to a block than just the sheer size and shape of the metal, there must be some kind of resonance going on that isn't initially obvious.
Nice video, thanks as always. Like the green screen too
Subscribed! I keep learning new things from your channel. Thanks for always putting out such great info!
This gentleman is awesome! Subscribed
So it's settled then. Closed deck iron bwuaack all the way!
For me it's open deck aluminum all the way.... Much more NA compression can be accomplished on pump gas, making for a far more volumetrically efficient engine
Your knowledge and speaking skills are superb. Additionally, the editing that you (or someone) puts into these vids is also superb. All around good stuff!
Thank you. I'm a one man show. Script, research, recording, editing, all me :)
Great video! Very informative 👏
Really interesting, keep up the good work!
I have never seen an open deck cast iron, however the Chrysler 2.2/2.5 are "Semi" open on one side (front of car when transverse mounted), and closed all 3 other sides. And the Chrysler Neon 2.0 are Semi open, but in a different way. For Aluminum blocks, I have noticed the GM North Star V8s are actually open deck (were introduced in the 1990s!). Chrysler 2.7, and 3.2/3.5/4.0, are closed deck aluminum blocks, which is what I prefer!
Ah, 2.7 Sludge-o-Matic. The sludge problem is actually caused by the small draon holes the head gasket
Thanks for all your videos, its very helpfull
The best video’s on RUclips 👍
Very informative thank you from the 🇵🇭
This channel is so great
Some extreme modified bike, piston 58mm to 72mm, we use method bypass, because it's impossible to use factory water jacket deck
Sorry for bad english
There is actually a significant problem with closed engine decks (especially old ones) when applying boost. That is the cooling capability of the block, a partially or fully closed cooling channel can ruin a block FAST since it don't have much excess cooling capacity in any given area of the engine (the early SAAB turbo engines was notorious for this problem) an oil-cooler and modern oils help but if your engine is hot when you turn it of you risk hotspots on the cylinder walls.
Lovely story tell voice and such good content!!!
Piston design and materials have allowed for a larger margin of error, too. Thicker ringlands, better forgings, and higher quality materials make surviving an ignition, boost or less than "as advertised" octane fuel problem, better in recent years. However, it is usually the human factor that destroys an engine. The desire for better track times or beating a competitor leads to higher boost levels until you find the limitations of your engine. It is called, "The Human Condition." As competitors, we like to "ride the edge." That is what makes life interesting!
The 1.6 EcoBoost engine is open deck but there are multiple people running 450bhp on a completely unopened block, though over time the cooling channel between the cilinders often fails, so I'd still rather get some sleeves installed when pushing for 450bhp
Subscribed. Keep up the good work
Excellent, thanks! Liked and subscribed.
As a BMW guy, I have to add something, the video clip from 4:18 is not the N54, thats an M3 which had a S65, 4 liter V8 making 420 hp. the 335i is still a great car tho, could easily push it to 400 hp bone stock. But I have yet to see a over 1000hp S54, people pushed them to around 940hp but still... Don't get me wrong, I love BMW-s, but the aluminium open deck design can't hold even half the power a 2JZ block can... so even if it is a new engine, an Aluminium open deck design is still a weak design, great for cooling, but it sucks for tuning. That's why BMW enthusiasts worship the M50 engines so much an M50B25 is from the last cast iron, closed deck blocks BMW ever made, people stroke it to increase the displacement and turbo it.. to make over 1000hp, if you are looking for a cheap 2JZ/RB26 alternative, going with an M50 isn't a bad choice... just make sure your cooling is up to date.
Another addition:
The K20 can only make big power if you get the plate to make it a closed deck design. Over 400-500hp they tend to complain
Another awesome video! I don't know how I found your channel, but I'm glad I did! For ideas for future videos, would you be able to do the turbocharged Mazda BP-4W engine that was found in the Mazdaspeed Miata and Protege?
Those are cool engines no doubt, but very niche, so I'll likely do them only once I have built up iconic engines and run out of mainstream choices :)
Subscribed, this was an excellent breakdown!!
Volkswagons AE113 is a pretty remarkable motor too, my friend.
This video was extremely informative,thanks.
Waiting for my duratec/ecoboost/Mazda MZR video😉
I have a closed deck and after see this video I motived to boost mi car, thank you very much!! C:
11:05 am cat back after being gone day & 1/2, but we were rained in for few days straight & real rained almost every day or gray whole yr on NOW 2/17/21'. He was whining few mins b4 we got to him say 10min window.
Thanks teacher keep them coming
I have one caveat to this. The Volvo Modular 5 cylinder R blocks were prone to cylinder cracking or warping if you turned the boost up higher than 19psi UNLESS you had reinforcement right at the tops of the cylinders. After that, you could do over 25-28psi and see around 550bhp.
Look at boostedboiz, they’re running 1000 hp in an H22 which is an open block design,their problems were in using a stock accord 5 speed with no lsd which would only take around 720 wheel hp before stripping 3rd gear,the engine holds up fine without being built up much,only adding a big ass turbo and a tune will reap big power.
Doing gods work my man.
green screen is cool addition to your chanel. wish you luck and many sponsors.
have learned a lot from your videos, thanks for making me bit more knowledgeable
Great video once agin man.
i like to watch this, even though my ol beetle is aircooled and just has thicker cilinder walls to stock
I guess you don’t need a block that can handle 2000hp when you’re only ever going to make 500hp.
oooof that's a burn
My car has a closed deck iron block and forged internals... too bad the rest of the drivetrain can only handle 250lb/ft before dropping its guts.
there is opel/gm 2.0 4cyl closed block that hold 2000+hp, dunno engine code (c20let?) but it was featured in 1320video while they were in brazil
@@calebnation7797 Exactly. People seem to forget that when discussing which engines are best for tuning. The weakest link in most modern cars isn't the engine block at all! lol
soundseeker63 there’s a guy in a group I’m in running ~1200whp on a stock block (60psi of boost) which is just stoopid power for a 1.8 motor, but he had to drop so much money elsewhere in the drivetrain that’s it’s insane.
The best answer, as always, is usually somewhere in the middle. Semi open for the win
Nice to see the new green board to be used :D
Really, keep this type of content and you soon will be one of the best, greattest channel.
Very informative, thanks for the clip.
There is a 'but' however and it's about open deck advantage, you've very clearly and concisely explained the advantage of closed vs. open and what mitigates the disadvantage of the open design but a design that's 'not as bad as you might have thought' is hardly a recommendation and hardly a justification for a manufacturer to adopt that design, so, that raises the question 'what is the advantage of the open deck?'. Clearly it's about additional cooling but an aluminium block dissipates heat better than iron anyway which lends weight to the argument for a closed or semi closed design, manufacturers (most of the time) know what they're doing, so, again, what exactly, or perhaps, how great is the benefit of the open deck?
As I mentioned in the video, the cost of production is a massive incentive for manufacturers to use the open deck design, and today they can more than ever because of all the reasons I mentioned in the video. Yes, ultimately a closed deck design is superior in terms of durability, but open decks are here, and will keep being ever more common probably, it's what we have and they're definitely not as bad as many think.
Another advantage of open deck design is that you can use the head gasket cheaply to "tune" coolant flow around the engine. For example, you might put larger coolant holes in the gasket towards the back of the block to encourage more coolant flow in this area which is normally hotter than the front of the block; or you might do the same to encourage greater coolant flow around the exhaust side of the cylinder head. Same advantage pretty much applies to a semi-open deck. Obviously if you're a manufacturer producing stock engines you'll get this right on a closed deck engine by machining correctly positioned coolant holes from the beginning, but if you then modify the engine for bigger power your requirements will change and it's a lot easier to modify a head gasket than a block.
Please do a series on the ls/lt
great video, more of that 👍👍
If your running tons of boost you need a closed deck block and just get a bigger radiator to compensate for heat build up as well as bigger oil cooler
The knowledge is great but the voice is what does it for me 😆😆😆 At night I put the videos on and fall asleep to the Boost School Series 😆😆😆 #DRIVING4ANSWERSASMRSLEEP
Could you do a video on ECUs and standalone engine management units.
Closed deck has more surface area for head gasket sealing. That's the real main advantage. Greater distance between the cylinder and any passages=better sealing. And, anybody that builds boosted engines knows, keeping the head sealed is one of the hardest parts.
I enjoy your videos!. I would like an OM606 video.
My S60r engine is currently transitioning from an Open deck design to a Semi-Open design thanks to some LA Sleeves.
Because I cracked it.
good work buddy
just a brainstorm idea, I know this will be expensive but what if you create a honeycomb mesh around the entire cylinder. this could potentially reinforce and strengthen uniformly around the cylinder while still cooling uniformly around the cylinder as well, I am also aware it would require a stronger water pump but I am sure that can be managed with a somewhat up sized pump.
Great Video, thanks a lot man🙏🙏🙏
Very well explained. Thnks
I was expecting that boxer block to box you behind the screen too 3:00
Crap! That would have been an awesome idea!!! I'll use it somewhere else. Thank you!
please do a vedio on platforms CS2A VS CT9A what is the difference and what these letters mean
4:46 you put Volvo t5, which happens to be one of the weaker Volvo engines when it comes to boost, the 2.3 is better for boost due to it being the same design but thicker cylinder walls
I'm lucky my car has a closed deck cast iron block, it's a 3.0L v6. If it was aluminum or closed deck, the abuse it took from having no coolant would have destroyed it. But all it needed was new headgaskets and it's as good as new.
Thank you very much man.
I like such style. Keep doing )