You are very generous with sharing all the ups and downs with us on those pesky door seals and I'm sure it's much appreciated by those about to do the same. Looking forward to the flippers!
I inherited my dad's 55 chevy, I find your videos very informative to me as I learn the car. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the Tri Five cars.
Thank you for sharing what you learned! It definitely helps us later with our projects! It is sad that you spend good money to buy a direct fit part and nothing fits! Especially on the Tri-Fives! When Art and Dan started Danchuk, they were pretty good out of the gate and improved parts as they used them on their own cars. As the catalog grew, the QC suffered as some vendors started drifting overseas. Art was the only one still at Danchuk in the later days (for the most part) and stated USA made for their parts but, many others went overseas. There was not a lot of variation in Tri-Five parts so, it was sad that they couldn't make a good weatherstrip by test fitting it on an actual door! So instead of 1 hour to put a good part on, it takes 4 hours to install a sub par part. We need to do more of these videos to show the good and bad companies, place reviews and reward the good companies with our business! My Dad did our '55 Hartop and it has seal issues. I can tell you that the sedans have similar issues. It has always been a bear to get those white round push pins fully seated without damaging or punching a hole through the rubber! I have the '55 Delray and my Bel Air Sedan that both need door seals. I will have to try different brands to see how they work. Soff Seal was always reputable in the day (if they are still around) and Steele claims to be top quality today. At about $150 they better be but, if they fit and save the time/frustration, they may be worth it! Great story about the blue sweatshirt! I can totally see that happening! The hardtop is looking awesome! Keep up the great work and I will continue to watch! Take care!
The guy that put my glass in swears by Steel seals. He said that he had to slam the door on his Chevelle, but could close it with one finger when he replaced with a Steel gasket. Steel gaskets cost much more than the other brands but hopefully you only buy once.
I hear your frustration glad your satisfied somewhat for now with the door seals. Put a search watch for 2 Door Hardtop NOS door seals on E-Bay theirs a few on their now but for 4 door sedans priced reasonably. Never know maybe you will get lucky pricewise and they seem to hold up well in boxes stored for many years from what the listings say. Anyhoo you know what to do Good Luck!
@@haffrods7055 Yeah you never know put a search in and youll get notifications in your E-mail when they are posted Good Luck! I put new seals in my car lucky it was a post they seem good still 6 years now. Ill keep my eyes open here as I go to Carshows and swap meets see 55 parts all the time....
As I type this, I am working on my flipper install. Was going to use the strip caulking but after seeing this, I am going to try the camper seal you suggest. Thanks for the invaluable information .👍
One thing I learned the hard way was to thoughly clean the new Precision seals. After spending hours removing the old rubber & prepping the door, getting the rubber to stick to the door was not working. I tried all types of adhesives, only to discover that the seal had some kind of a film that would not allow any adhesives to stick to the door. They just peeled off. I ended up using paint thinner and a fine grit sandpaper on the rubber, so that the adhesive could stick.
Looking forward to the flipper video. I'm to the point I'm trying adjust to where the rear goes down good when you shut the door. I remember from your one video you said to let the middle relax and see if spacers are needed. Good to know on what your using for door seals. My truck seal is by precision and it does seem to be alittle on the thick side as well.
I have a set of door weatherstriping for my 55 Sedan that I purchased through MuttonHollow. I have been struggling to install it. I can't get the snap buttons to pop into and stay in the holes in the door jams. I'm hoping to not have to glue in the weatherstriping around the entire door jam. Any suggestions? Thanks for all of your tips and content.
I went out and tried to get the snaps to go in and stay put. This time I could get enough pressure on the snap to get it work. I guess I just didn't use the right tool the first time. The end of pair of pliers works fine.
Rob, I’ve heard good stuff about Steel Rubber Products brand. I’m going to call them tomorrow. Let’s see if they can send you some molding, as you have tried three other brands and have a lot of followers. Plus you have over 100 likes per video. That’s marketing for them, if their product is what they say it is, and they can right it off as marketing. It doesn’t hurt to try 👍🏻 Let’s see what they say 🤞
@@haffrods7055 I called and sent an email. So let’s see if they take advantage of this opportunity. The car shows that I watch make it seem like their product is superior so we’ll see.
You are very generous with sharing all the ups and downs with us on those pesky door seals and I'm sure it's much appreciated by those about to do the same. Looking forward to the flippers!
Thank you Thumpershd
I inherited my dad's 55 chevy, I find your videos very informative to me as I learn the car. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the Tri Five cars.
I appreciate you watching Dan.
Thank you for sharing what you learned! It definitely helps us later with our projects! It is sad that you spend good money to buy a direct fit part and nothing fits! Especially on the Tri-Fives! When Art and Dan started Danchuk, they were pretty good out of the gate and improved parts as they used them on their own cars. As the catalog grew, the QC suffered as some vendors started drifting overseas. Art was the only one still at Danchuk in the later days (for the most part) and stated USA made for their parts but, many others went overseas. There was not a lot of variation in Tri-Five parts so, it was sad that they couldn't make a good weatherstrip by test fitting it on an actual door! So instead of 1 hour to put a good part on, it takes 4 hours to install a sub par part. We need to do more of these videos to show the good and bad companies, place reviews and reward the good companies with our business! My Dad did our '55 Hartop and it has seal issues. I can tell you that the sedans have similar issues. It has always been a bear to get those white round push pins fully seated without damaging or punching a hole through the rubber! I have the '55 Delray and my Bel Air Sedan that both need door seals. I will have to try different brands to see how they work. Soff Seal was always reputable in the day (if they are still around) and Steele claims to be top quality today. At about $150 they better be but, if they fit and save the time/frustration, they may be worth it! Great story about the blue sweatshirt! I can totally see that happening! The hardtop is looking awesome! Keep up the great work and I will continue to watch! Take care!
It is hard to go forward on a project when new parts have to be modded to fit. Thanks for watching Hubie
The guy that put my glass in swears by Steel seals. He said that he had to slam the door on his Chevelle, but could close it with one finger when he replaced with a Steel gasket. Steel gaskets cost much more than the other brands but hopefully you only buy once.
I hear your frustration glad your satisfied somewhat for now with the door seals. Put a search watch for 2 Door Hardtop NOS door seals on E-Bay theirs a few on their now but for 4 door sedans priced reasonably. Never know maybe you will get lucky pricewise and they seem to hold up well in boxes stored for many years from what the listings say. Anyhoo you know what to do Good Luck!
I'll have to look. At least they would fit correctly.
@@haffrods7055 Yeah you never know put a search in and youll get notifications in your E-mail when they are posted Good Luck! I put new seals in my car lucky it was a post they seem good still 6 years now. Ill keep my eyes open here as I go to Carshows and swap meets see 55 parts all the time....
As I type this, I am working on my flipper install. Was going to use the strip caulking but after seeing this, I am going to try the camper seal you suggest. Thanks for the invaluable information .👍
You're welcome Todd
One thing I learned the hard way was to thoughly clean the new Precision seals. After spending hours removing the old rubber & prepping the door, getting the rubber to stick to the door was not working. I tried all types of adhesives, only to discover that the seal had some kind of a film that would not allow any adhesives to stick to the door. They just peeled off. I ended up using paint thinner and a fine grit sandpaper on the rubber, so that the adhesive could stick.
Looking forward to the flipper video. I'm to the point I'm trying adjust to where the rear goes down good when you shut the door. I remember from your one video you said to let the middle relax and see if spacers are needed. Good to know on what your using for door seals. My truck seal is by precision and it does seem to be alittle on the thick side as well.
Yeah I'm looking forward to that as well
Thanks for tuning in Scott
Great job. It's nice to see it coming together!
Thanks Turkey
😎👍😎
I've read good reviews about Steel Rubber Products brand weather striping for Tri-Fives. I wish I could say that I've tried them but I haven't
There's been a few guys refer Steele rubber products. I haven't tried them on a tri 5.
Been following for some time now. I would like to know what brand your radiator is. Thanks. I have learned do much.
Griffin
You can do it!🙂
No I can't. Lol.
Maybe you can try rubber seals from steele rubber in nc. Their company is about 15 miles from me and lots of people buy their stuff.
I've never tried Steele on a tri 5 Chevy. I would like to though
I have a set of door weatherstriping for my 55 Sedan that I purchased through MuttonHollow. I have been struggling to install it. I can't get the snap buttons to pop into and stay in the holes in the door jams. I'm hoping to not have to glue in the weatherstriping around the entire door jam. Any suggestions? Thanks for all of your tips and content.
I went out and tried to get the snaps to go in and stay put. This time I could get enough pressure on the snap to get it work. I guess I just didn't use the right tool the first time. The end of pair of pliers works fine.
Yeah, those clips are a pain in the rear to get snapped in there. I'm glad you finally got it Daryl
Waiting for the flipper how to.......
Me too
That sucks once again. I big time waster on aftermarket junk. Stick with it. Getting closer. P.s. Happy Haircut
I do get tired of buying crappy parts. Found out paying more $ doesn't mean better. Lol
Rob,
I’ve heard good stuff about Steel Rubber Products brand.
I’m going to call them tomorrow. Let’s see if they can send you some molding, as you have tried three other brands and have a lot of followers. Plus you have over 100 likes per video. That’s marketing for them, if their product is what they say it is, and they can right it off as marketing.
It doesn’t hurt to try 👍🏻
Let’s see what they say 🤞
I appreciate that Sean. I don't think my audience is big enough for them to donate a pair of door seals but they might.
@@haffrods7055 I called and sent an email. So let’s see if they take advantage of this opportunity. The car shows that I watch make it seem like their product is superior so we’ll see.
I do appreciate you thinking of me and doing the reach out Sean. Much appreciated.