A tip for grinding is that I start with my off hand (my left hand) and I find that is easier to copy what I did on the left side with my right hand. I grind my bevels freehand.
I enjoyed every minute of it. If you came here with your mind set to learn something new, you will always find it. As for grinding bevels, you are absolutely right. Practice practice practice. I’m still learning but my grinding skills increased when I ground 15 blades at once. I did not do anything on the knife except grind bevels for two days or more. That is the only way you’re going to get good at it. As for the helicopter spins, I don’t use a stopper when using quarter inch and smaller bits. Thanks for the video and thanks for talking a lot that is only way to learn a lot😊
Last year I was making a really small knife, probably around a inch-inch and a half. I forgot to drill the holes and by this time I already finished the rough bevels; so I drill the hole and held the knife down with my hand, then the knife helicoptered and sliced my pointer finger wide open. I needed up getting 6 stitches. (wasn’t really fun)
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your videos like this! I've learned so much from you, and you've given me the confidence to start trying some of these things. So far, I've only done two butcher knife modification projects. But, I've picked up some experience (and learned some lessons) along the way. I was surprisingly happy with how they turned out, and now I have the confidence to try my first full knife build. The heat treat is the part that scares me the most, but I think I'm going to give it a shot using some of your earlier videos as a guide for the process. Thanks again.
Just want to clarify. I noticed in the video that the drawing said 1:2 scale but that is actually a mistake. The drawing is in fact 1:1 so I apologize for the mislabeling, you guys can ignore where it says 1:2.
Absolutely fantastic visuals and the amount of valuable information you just handed out like Halloween candy is just ridiculous.. Thanks for the great video I look forward to see the finish.. Thanks and Cheers, Martin
Great video Jeremy. I've been wanting to make a real knife for a long time. I've made training knives in the past but this video gave me the drive to go ahead and do it!
Great video Jeremy. I find that your tip of placing of placing the bevel on the belt first before you touch the rest of the knife to it when your freehand grinding is a very important tip. And now for the heat treat question, I’ve recently started using CPM 154, and found it to finish up very nicely, but A little difficult to drill, I was curious about your heat treat formula, specifically the temperature and time in the oven. Thank you again for all your efforts.
Jantz supply has amazing steel and recently started using New Jersey steel Baron. I will stick with njsb from now on. They are awesome. Great steel and prices
Pops knife supply is my favorite steel supplier but New Jersey Steel Baron is my second go to. Mind you I live in New Jersey but it seems pops gets to me faster than njsb! Both great to buy from though!
Au steel suppliers, Melbourne specifically. I get precision ground O1 from Hales and 5160/SUP9A from Ian Stansfield-Smith. The spring steel from ISS is dirt cheap, $10/m for 40x6mm (in 5.8m lengths), anything else is Artisan Supplies or Creative Man. With regard to this build along (using an old file), I have somehow managed to grind my tip curved after heat treat (it was straight after the heat treat, was not overheated in the grinding) and I somehow ground it crooked with a trizac belt cleaning up the bevels. I hopefully have enough left to grind it back again....Still waiting for my papersharp wheels to arrive to put the edge on, have not had much luck with Jap waterstones. Just more practice I assume....
SO helpful. I'm not making the same knife but this is so helpful. I'm doing well with my bevel line but still struggling with a clean plunge line. Issue most likely is I only have a 4x36 modified grinder, oh yeah and need more practice also. When you get to the handle, I'm interested most in the prep work for where the front of the scale meets the blade. Is it 90 degrees first? cleaning up the epoxy and how to sand down a consistent and tight look at that transition . I can make a handle look great and sanding is pretty forgiving, but not so much at the front of the handle.
👍 Nice in depth vid Jeremy on drilling speeds etc, I've never used a formula, tend to use one speed for everything ,about 900rpm and just vary feed rate. probly not best practice but worked well for 30+ years. Also never used coolant or cutting fluid. a small air brush type compressor with a fine point directed at the intersection between hole and drill flutes gives excellent cooling and gets rid of all the cuttings. On bevel angles, because i use a jig i have a method for getting the right angle using a bit of pythagoras .if you are interested i'll send you the details 🍺
Thank you! Yeah, I don’t always adjust my speeds either. Man that would eat up a lot of time in the ship switching drill press belts every time I switched bits😆👍
What a great video, thanks Jeremy for taking the time to make and edit it...must have taken ages. Really apprecitate it. I'm in Ireland so finding steel tends to be ebay or car boot sales where i look for old tools. I found 4 farrier files for €5 so cheap as chips! For drilling I have a budget drill press (aldi) but i found chainbar oil for my chainsaw works really well and makes the holes super smooth. And as for speed, I use super slow and take it easy and it works everytime. Scales are proving to be problem for me...terrified of making a dogs dinner of them once they're glued on..what's the secret?
In the US, you have NJSB, USAknifemaker, Alpha Knife supply, PoPs knife supply, Texas Knife supply, Admiral Steel and a few others. Those I mentioned are just the ones I know off the top of my head.
Verbalmute not really sure on ones for New Zealand. But if you can get the multitool attachment for the bench grinder, 84 engineering in Australia make a flat platten attachment that turns it into a 2x48 grinder. Or build one from scratch.
Haha! Right up until 20:08 I can diddo my experience to yours exactly, even the "helicoptering", although mine caught my left hand just below my thumb. Ouch! That's alright, I'm a man, didn't even bandage it! And same thing, wish I had comprehended how little material was around the lanyard hole, leaves very little wiggle room for errors.
Jeremy, what angle do you find best for your initial plunge cut / plane in ( •degress ) I've learned °25 is about the best micro bevel for sharpening a knife. But roughing in the primary bevel I'm not sure about. Thanks for your time and effort !!!!!!!!
Best steel prices I have found are on eBay. You won't find great deals every day. But if you check every week or two, you will run across great deals. Just buy it when you find a deal. Buy ahead, you'll end up using it.
I'm working my way thru your videos, so I may not have run across it yet, but what kind of mill do you have in this video? It looks small enough to be practical, but complex enough to have the versatility for which I've been shopping.
I have a fairly nice grinder which I can use horizontally with small wheels. Every time I try cleaning up the inside of my handles I keep putting small divots in it from the wheels. I’ve tried just using the flat platten vertically like you did in this video but they still come out “lumpy” I guess... any suggestions on how to smooth it out?
You haven't gotten to the glue-up yet but I have been curious about this.... some people drill a whole bunch of holes through the tang and say that this allows the epoxy to travel through the tang and allows for a stronger bond. Now, I'm no expert, I've only made 1 knife from beginning to end, so don't take this as an argument so much as I really don't entirely understand. Anyway my limited logic suggests to me that for a good glue-up you would want as much surface area as possible between mating surfaces and the epoxy - hence the reason for scuffing up the mating surfaces. Yet wouldn't drilling a whole bunch of holes through the tang only reduce those contacting surface areas, as the only thing below the scales where a hole has been drilled in the tang is only a glob of epoxy....? Or am I totally wrong? I can understand having some holes for the sake of reducing weight but I don't see how it helps in strengthening the adhesion of the scales to the tang. If you could answer this in the next part, that would be awesome. Thanks, Jeremy, keep up the awesome vids. Take care.
I got mine from Origin Blade Maker (formerly Oregon Blade Maker). For the quality and price, they honestly can not be beat unless you want to build your own (weld or no-weld plans are pretty readily available online). They have a model available with a motor and VFD. I was trying to keep my build as budget friendly as possible while cutting as few corners as possible. Your mileage may vary, but I actually got a motor from Harbor Freight and wired it up myself and have not had any issue whatsoever in over 2 months of pretty regular use.
I built the Jeremy Schmidt grinder and the finished product will last a lifetime and literally saved me thousands of dollars. Took some time to build but it was so much fun to make, I keep thinking of attachments I can make to keep the project from ending entirely. After comparing my grinder to everything on the market, I can honestly say it’s the best built, best designed grinder available. If you have the tools/skills/time, search “Jeremy Schmidt grinder” on RUclips and fall into the rabbit hole. You will not regret it!
Update: I’m finished. Mostly. I’m calling it the Rhino. There’s a hundred things wrong with it, but it’s my first one ever and I’m as happy as an American president at a beauty pageant. Bwahahahaha! IM DOING EVERYTHING WRONG! I made my own design (I figured my first knife should be my own 😃), carved it out of an old kitchen knife (obviously thicker at the top than at the blade edge), it has compound curves (bad idea for a noob), obviously it’s already hardened so I am not looking forward to drilling holes for the handle, and sharpening - and sanding - is proving my nemesis. But I’m having a lot of fun :) First lesson learned: Once steel is gone, it’s gone. Second lesson: Use both hands as far as possible to hold either the knife, or the grinder. Why? See first lesson >.< Third lesson: Everything is HOT! Angle grinder, bench grinder, discs and the blade itself. Do not be fooled, just because the steel doesn’t change colour, doesn’t mean it’s not going to burn the living futjdkv out of you.
@@amandawatson5931 that's understandable I've done that before too if you would like to make one from scratch I highly recommend farriers rasps if you can keep me cool they are already hardened
Please help!!! I'm having trouble drilling holes in the file I'm using. I heated it to critical temp and the magnet didn't stick so I just let it air cool. I used the rpm formula but it won't drill it smokes my bits. I'm using Milwaukee cobalt bits.
Just wondering about this, I would love one of your knives and am currently in need of a hunting knife but am not willing to spend over 150$ would that be possible to get a knife with scale construction around 4” long for 150 or less
@SimpleLittleLife I had gone into my local metal supermarket and knowing they have been really crappy in the past for customer service but I figured I would give them another go to see if I can get any steel locally but they told me there is no place in my town to get 1080,1095, or 01 tool steel. one guy there chimed in a said "oh you're making knives? yeah no, we don't have any steel for you" so I asked if you know anywhere or any leads on where I can find some? and again a hard no. so long story short I will never be going through them again for anything they don't want to help you out unless you are ordering 20+ feet
Oh man that sucks. I have had a completely different experience. My local store stocks a decent amount of O-1 in all the sizes and thicknesses commonly used for knives. They told me they get a lot of people coming in for the O-1. I guess every store is different. Sorry to hear of your crappy experience.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with a jig. I regularly use them. It’s just a different skill to freehand than use a jig. I strongly support both options.
@simple little life I was so sure you'd cover heat treatment in one of the videos so I didn't specifically ask for it. Could you show us the easiest way possible to heat treat, please?! I use a swedish equivalent to O1-tool steel (don't remember the numbers at the moment) Kindly Elias
Can you show a heat treat for guys like me that don't have a kiln. When I get the time I'll be doing this with a belt sander and a regular old power drill . Great vid
I started with 2 insulating firebricks. They are low density and easily make a tunnel with it and heat it up with a burner. If you cant get it to non magnetic you need more burners lol
Could you imagine this Jerrid: At the end of your days, your legacy is that you were the asshole who made rude comments to people on RUclips. You are the kind of person that makes this world a little bit worse. You are the one that bring people down. That’s you. That’s how you will be remembered. That is your legacy. Damn that’s a pathetic existence.
john kotlarchick making stock removal knives does get boring, I think learning to forge should be a requirement for modern day knife makers , even if they only use the skill for %10 of their blades. Having an integral bolster is a huge plus when making quality knives, especially kitchen knives!
A tip for grinding is that I start with my off hand (my left hand) and I find that is easier to copy what I did on the left side with my right hand. I grind my bevels freehand.
That's an awesome tip! Thanks👍
@@Simplelittlelife👍
This makes a lot of sense! Gunna give it a shot.
Holy cow I never even thought about that I'm going to try that
I enjoyed every minute of it. If you came here with your mind set to learn something new, you will always find it. As for grinding bevels, you are absolutely right. Practice practice practice. I’m still learning but my grinding skills increased when I ground 15 blades at once. I did not do anything on the knife except grind bevels for two days or more. That is the only way you’re going to get good at it. As for the helicopter spins, I don’t use a stopper when using quarter inch and smaller bits. Thanks for the video and thanks for talking a lot that is only way to learn a lot😊
Thank you my friend! I appreciate that! 👍
It's always a learning experience with every build It's good to see another knife a- holic onboard Huh Tely??
I enjoy and learn so much from both of you, thank you both
nice to see you here, i watch both of you
Last year I was making a really small knife, probably around a inch-inch and a half. I forgot to drill the holes and by this time I already finished the rough bevels; so I drill the hole and held the knife down with my hand, then the knife helicoptered and sliced my pointer finger wide open. I needed up getting 6 stitches. (wasn’t really fun)
Many thanks mate. You explained everything perfectly well. Really appreciate such valuable advice.
I like Jeremy. He is authentic and really smart. His knives are great. I am inspired.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your videos like this! I've learned so much from you, and you've given me the confidence to start trying some of these things. So far, I've only done two butcher knife modification projects. But, I've picked up some experience (and learned some lessons) along the way. I was surprisingly happy with how they turned out, and now I have the confidence to try my first full knife build. The heat treat is the part that scares me the most, but I think I'm going to give it a shot using some of your earlier videos as a guide for the process. Thanks again.
Just want to clarify. I noticed in the video that the drawing said 1:2 scale but that is actually a mistake. The drawing is in fact 1:1 so I apologize for the mislabeling, you guys can ignore where it says 1:2.
Knife material is a great subject.
Thanks
I’m glad I came back and watched this video as I’ve ordered a 2x72 belt grinder and now I know what I’m gonna start out with 😁 thanks
this is the perfect type of knife making vid. i like how you go into great detail.
thanks love your tips
You know a lot of stuff..... And I like your channel is very know knowledgeable.... So thank You for sharing
Texas knifemakers supply -very good
Absolutely fantastic visuals and the amount of valuable information you just handed out like Halloween candy is just ridiculous.. Thanks for the great video I look forward to see the finish.. Thanks and Cheers, Martin
Steel supplier in Australia good one is artisan supplies great selection of steel and equipment hope this helps great video 😊👍
Phenomenal video! Super clear and informative explanations/tips, and enjoyable to watch!
Great video Jeremy. I've been wanting to make a real knife for a long time. I've made training knives in the past but this video gave me the drive to go ahead and do it!
Wish I had a VFD for my 2x42 that goes 1 million MPH! Thanks for the video. Good tips in here.
Great video Jeremy. I find that your tip of placing of placing the bevel on the belt first before you touch the rest of the knife to it when your freehand grinding is a very important tip. And now for the heat treat question, I’ve recently started using CPM 154, and found it to finish up very nicely, but A little difficult to drill, I was curious about your heat treat formula, specifically the temperature and time in the oven. Thank you again for all your efforts.
Lot of info I needed..Looking forward to the next..
nice informative vid jeremy,looking forward to the next.
Thank you very much!
Jantz supply has amazing steel and recently started using New Jersey steel Baron. I will stick with njsb from now on. They are awesome. Great steel and prices
I know that took a lot of work and time to do the edit. Thank you for taking time to make that happen.
Awesome video. You are simply amazing
Great info. Much appreciated. Keep upthegoodwork.
fantastic video. can't wait for the next one
Fantastic video pal, some great tips
Thank you so much! 🙏👍
I really do enjoy your videos
New Jersey Steel baron.
Thanks!
Great job, nice splaining
Thank you!
If you use some spray on silicon on the work rest, your jig should slide easier, granting better control when making smaller motions.
Pops knife supply is my favorite steel supplier but New Jersey Steel Baron is my second go to. Mind you I live in New Jersey but it seems pops gets to me faster than njsb! Both great to buy from though!
Now I just need that sweet sweet belt grinder
Kelly couple's has a great quality of Steel and good prices
Au steel suppliers, Melbourne specifically. I get precision ground O1 from Hales and 5160/SUP9A from Ian Stansfield-Smith. The spring steel from ISS is dirt cheap, $10/m for 40x6mm (in 5.8m lengths), anything else is Artisan Supplies or Creative Man. With regard to this build along (using an old file), I have somehow managed to grind my tip curved after heat treat (it was straight after the heat treat, was not overheated in the grinding) and I somehow ground it crooked with a trizac belt cleaning up the bevels. I hopefully have enough left to grind it back again....Still waiting for my papersharp wheels to arrive to put the edge on, have not had much luck with Jap waterstones. Just more practice I assume....
I need to jump in on this.
Do it! 👍 Heaps of fun! (Do a video too!😉)
Great video as always. I use O1 and get it from admiral steel or Amazon.
SO helpful. I'm not making the same knife but this is so helpful. I'm doing well with my bevel line but still struggling with a clean plunge line. Issue most likely is I only have a 4x36 modified grinder, oh yeah and need more practice also. When you get to the handle, I'm interested most in the prep work for where the front of the scale meets the blade. Is it 90 degrees first? cleaning up the epoxy and how to sand down a consistent and tight look at that transition . I can make a handle look great and sanding is pretty forgiving, but not so much at the front of the handle.
👍 Nice in depth vid Jeremy
on drilling speeds etc, I've never used a formula, tend to use one speed for everything ,about 900rpm and just vary feed rate. probly not best practice but worked well for 30+ years. Also never used coolant or cutting fluid. a small air brush type compressor with a fine point directed at the intersection between hole and drill flutes gives excellent cooling and gets rid of all the cuttings.
On bevel angles, because i use a jig i have a method for getting the right angle using a bit of pythagoras .if you are interested i'll send you the details
🍺
Thank you! Yeah, I don’t always adjust my speeds either. Man that would eat up a lot of time in the ship switching drill press belts every time I switched bits😆👍
What a great video, thanks Jeremy for taking the time to make and edit it...must have taken ages. Really apprecitate it. I'm in Ireland so finding steel tends to be ebay or car boot sales where i look for old tools. I found 4 farrier files for €5 so cheap as chips! For drilling I have a budget drill press (aldi) but i found chainbar oil for my chainsaw works really well and makes the holes super smooth. And as for speed, I use super slow and take it easy and it works everytime. Scales are proving to be problem for me...terrified of making a dogs dinner of them once they're glued on..what's the secret?
In the UK Coventry Grinders are a good source of knife steels.
I've got my blade profiled and going to grind tomorrow. Sure wish you were giving lots of detail on the heat treating part of it
In the US, you have NJSB, USAknifemaker, Alpha Knife supply, PoPs knife supply, Texas Knife supply, Admiral Steel and a few others. Those I mentioned are just the ones I know off the top of my head.
Australian and New Zealand guys you can get knife making steel from Gameco artisan supplies.
Chur that, any luck with well priced grinders here in NZ?
Verbalmute not really sure on ones for New Zealand. But if you can get the multitool attachment for the bench grinder, 84 engineering in Australia make a flat platten attachment that turns it into a 2x48 grinder. Or build one from scratch.
Haha! Right up until 20:08 I can diddo my experience to yours exactly, even the "helicoptering", although mine caught my left hand just below my thumb. Ouch! That's alright, I'm a man, didn't even bandage it! And same thing, wish I had comprehended how little material was around the lanyard hole, leaves very little wiggle room for errors.
I saw that you use a portable band saw and have it mounted vertically. How did you do that?
👍👍
Loving the video. One thing I want to ask is how much you let the belt hang over the edge of the wheel when you are grinding the plunge.
Jeremy, what angle do you find best for your initial plunge cut / plane in ( •degress ) I've learned °25 is about the best micro bevel for sharpening a knife. But roughing in the primary bevel I'm not sure about.
Thanks for your time and effort !!!!!!!!
Best steel prices I have found are on eBay. You won't find great deals every day. But if you check every week or two, you will run across great deals. Just buy it when you find a deal. Buy ahead, you'll end up using it.
I'm working my way thru your videos, so I may not have run across it yet, but what kind of mill do you have in this video? It looks small enough to be practical, but complex enough to have the versatility for which I've been shopping.
I have a fairly nice grinder which I can use horizontally with small wheels. Every time I try cleaning up the inside of my handles I keep putting small divots in it from the wheels. I’ve tried just using the flat platten vertically like you did in this video but they still come out “lumpy” I guess... any suggestions on how to smooth it out?
You haven't gotten to the glue-up yet but I have been curious about this.... some people drill a whole bunch of holes through the tang and say that this allows the epoxy to travel through the tang and allows for a stronger bond. Now, I'm no expert, I've only made 1 knife from beginning to end, so don't take this as an argument so much as I really don't entirely understand. Anyway my limited logic suggests to me that for a good glue-up you would want as much surface area as possible between mating surfaces and the epoxy - hence the reason for scuffing up the mating surfaces. Yet wouldn't drilling a whole bunch of holes through the tang only reduce those contacting surface areas, as the only thing below the scales where a hole has been drilled in the tang is only a glob of epoxy....? Or am I totally wrong? I can understand having some holes for the sake of reducing weight but I don't see how it helps in strengthening the adhesion of the scales to the tang. If you could answer this in the next part, that would be awesome. Thanks, Jeremy, keep up the awesome vids. Take care.
You can buy a "lathe" file, fairly inexpensively, but they don't have teeth on the sides
Saving up for a 2 x 72 belt grinder. Any advice on brands and where i could buy one??
I got mine from Origin Blade Maker (formerly Oregon Blade Maker). For the quality and price, they honestly can not be beat unless you want to build your own (weld or no-weld plans are pretty readily available online). They have a model available with a motor and VFD. I was trying to keep my build as budget friendly as possible while cutting as few corners as possible. Your mileage may vary, but I actually got a motor from Harbor Freight and wired it up myself and have not had any issue whatsoever in over 2 months of pretty regular use.
I built the Jeremy Schmidt grinder and the finished product will last a lifetime and literally saved me thousands of dollars. Took some time to build but it was so much fun to make, I keep thinking of attachments I can make to keep the project from ending entirely. After comparing my grinder to everything on the market, I can honestly say it’s the best built, best designed grinder available. If you have the tools/skills/time, search “Jeremy Schmidt grinder” on RUclips and fall into the rabbit hole. You will not regret it!
Update: I’m finished. Mostly. I’m calling it the Rhino. There’s a hundred things wrong with it, but it’s my first one ever and I’m as happy as an American president at a beauty pageant.
Bwahahahaha! IM DOING EVERYTHING WRONG! I made my own design (I figured my first knife should be my own 😃), carved it out of an old kitchen knife (obviously thicker at the top than at the blade edge), it has compound curves (bad idea for a noob), obviously it’s already hardened so I am not looking forward to drilling holes for the handle, and sharpening - and sanding - is proving my nemesis. But I’m having a lot of fun :)
First lesson learned: Once steel is gone, it’s gone.
Second lesson: Use both hands as far as possible to hold either the knife, or the grinder. Why? See first lesson >.<
Third lesson: Everything is HOT! Angle grinder, bench grinder, discs and the blade itself. Do not be fooled, just because the steel doesn’t change colour, doesn’t mean it’s not going to burn the living futjdkv out of you.
I'm a rookie knife maker as well if the kitchen knife is carbon steel you can try to aneal it (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
Thanks Justin. I’m doing my damndest to not overheat the blade simply because I don’t have anywhere to heat treat it.
@@amandawatson5931 that's understandable I've done that before too if you would like to make one from scratch I highly recommend farriers rasps if you can keep me cool they are already hardened
Jeremy.
Can you oil quench nitro-V, or do you have to plate quench
Please help!!! I'm having trouble drilling holes in the file I'm using. I heated it to critical temp and the magnet didn't stick so I just let it air cool. I used the rpm formula but it won't drill it smokes my bits. I'm using Milwaukee cobalt bits.
Just wondering about this, I would love one of your knives and am currently in need of a hunting knife but am not willing to spend over 150$ would that be possible to get a knife with scale construction around 4” long for 150 or less
Tate Solveson I’m gonna go out on a limb and say no. You won’t find many custom hand made knives for 150
@SimpleLittleLife I had gone into my local metal supermarket and knowing they have been really crappy in the past for customer service but I figured I would give them another go to see if I can get any steel locally but they told me there is no place in my town to get 1080,1095, or 01 tool steel. one guy there chimed in a said "oh you're making knives? yeah no, we don't have any steel for you" so I asked if you know anywhere or any leads on where I can find some? and again a hard no. so long story short I will never be going through them again for anything they don't want to help you out unless you are ordering 20+ feet
Oh man that sucks. I have had a completely different experience. My local store stocks a decent amount of O-1 in all the sizes and thicknesses commonly used for knives. They told me they get a lot of people coming in for the O-1. I guess every store is different. Sorry to hear of your crappy experience.
@@Simplelittlelife yeah it's definitely a store by store kinda thing looks like I'm sticking to using files for now
The Spanish notch is a deal breaker for me.
What's wrong with working with a jig? It just improves the fit and finish. Plus it makes work quicker. Why wouldn't you do it?
I don’t think there is anything wrong with a jig. I regularly use them. It’s just a different skill to freehand than use a jig. I strongly support both options.
@simple little life
I was so sure you'd cover heat treatment in one of the videos so I didn't specifically ask for it.
Could you show us the easiest way possible to heat treat, please?!
I use a swedish equivalent to O1-tool steel (don't remember the numbers at the moment)
Kindly Elias
It's either K460 or 1095 if that helps. 6 mm. @Simple Little Life
Can you show a heat treat for guys like me that don't have a kiln. When I get the time I'll be doing this with a belt sander and a regular old power drill . Great vid
I started with 2 insulating firebricks. They are low density and easily make a tunnel with it and heat it up with a burner. If you cant get it to non magnetic you need more burners lol
PS knives I'll try my fire pit in my back yard lol. We get that super hot
Firepit with a little extra air will do as well yes
Amazon sells 01
Nice build, is this template still available?
I have already finished my knife and if there are any Aussies here is a metal supplier: artisan supplies
Can you do another build along please ?
Amazon or ebay
What does EDC stand for?
Every day carry
That templet is not available anymore ...
NJsteelbarron or Jantz
steel supliers for belgium the netherlands ..... smederij alkmaar brisa
Sweet! Thanks for that👍
Dictum is also one you can have a look
@@royrutten87 THANKS
@@Simplelittlelife no problem i start on the knife now
Uk steel.
search ebay amazon for O1 tool steel.
Groundflatstock are very efficient for UK, great selection, cheaper direct than via ebay.
Muchas palabras...
saludame
Schmiedeglut.de for lots of knifesteels and their proporties. Its a german site but allso great delivery in holland
Allso has alot of intel on the heattreat intel of several steels so good for everyone to check out
First
Wooho!
Minkia quanto parli però
You talk way to much it’s honestly annoying I enjoy watching you do work not the talking
Could you imagine this Jerrid: At the end of your days, your legacy is that you were the asshole who made rude comments to people on RUclips. You are the kind of person that makes this world a little bit worse. You are the one that bring people down. That’s you. That’s how you will be remembered. That is your legacy.
Damn that’s a pathetic existence.
I'm sorry I stopped following you cuz you said you were going to start forging and never did. You are a farmer and need to know it.
john kotlarchick making stock removal knives does get boring, I think learning to forge should be a requirement for modern day knife makers
, even if they only use the skill for %10 of their blades. Having an integral bolster is a huge plus when making quality knives, especially kitchen knives!