I add solar to my daughter's new home and get to test out our latest creation. Get a quote for the Discover lithium battery: practicalpreppers.com/product/aes-rackmount-by-discover-energy/ Get a Sol-Ark 15k: practicalpreppers.com/product/sol-ark-15k-120-240-208v-hybrid-solar-inverter-all-in-one-pre-wired-outdoor-rated/ Let's discuss your solar goals: practicalpreppers.com/consultation/ Check out our DIY kits: practicalpreppers.com/product-category/solar/diy/
A recommendation for bolting the inverter to the cabinet in the future - better to turn those bolts around (using carriage bolts) so that you don't have threaded bolt ends inside the wire chase. If you're worried about bolt access resulting in theft, use Huck-bolts (one has to cut them off to remove them).
I love the peak charges! It pushed me off the grid! I had solar to supplement, when I got the peak from 4-8pm and 6-9 am,you realize you have to get by from 4pm tilll 9 am the next morning on storage, once you get that much storage and enough panels to run all your loads and guarantee a full pack at sunset, you can cut the cord.
From a security perspective, manufacturers need to start including alarm contacts - both in the inverter and the battery cabs. The Solark App could alert the install/customer about a tamper condition and let them react before it's all stripped and stolen. Failing that, installing door switches and dry contacts for an easy security integration.
1:40 "We need to get the batteries out of the house." I was on the edge about this, but you've now convinced me getting the storage outside the envelope of the structure and then some is a good idea. I have to think insurers are spinning up on this topic.
simply love watching your projects, I've been a fan for many years now. I live in TX and have added solar and batteries to my home, wish I knew more about the programing of the system. 28 panels and 6 Enphase batteries. Thanks for the many years of prepping advice and videos.
i am not so sure about that. the battery is exposed to the heat and the cold that is for sure not good for longevity. besides lifepo4 technology is pretty safe.
Great to see innovation on your channel as codes sometimes force change, but you are taking the initiative and doing R&D.... Great installs and I have learned a lot. Good videos all around.
Great video, thanks for sharing. For some unknown reason I haven’t been getting your video alerts. Very nice system. Will have to look at the new equipment you are using. Currently window shopping for a battery storage system for family in Florida. The HOA restrictions are almost as crazy as the minimal size of the lots. Really like the idea of the batteries outside the home. Pondering how close they can be sited to the home. Wishing you and your family the best. FYI in my opinion, the new guy doing the atlas survival shelter install videos sounds like you, even talks like you. Crazy 😝
I would recommend a solar split unit AC to be added to the house. I have my own sights set on the one EG4 has since I've seen reviews saying how well it performs using very little watts. This could be installed in the main living area of the house and actually just run alongside the existing unit on "normal" days which would take some pressure off the big unit and reduce consumption. Grid down, the big unit would stop but the split system would keep going, may not be enough to cool the entire house but at least the living area will be liveable (think indoor camping)! Just my 2 cents which happens to be the direction I am headed in myself with my own system.
Very professional setup. Just a tip, Micro Air doesn't recommend mounting their soft start upside down because of that gland connection. Putting it on its side or caulking the bajesus out of it might be a good idea.
@@shawnstangeland3011 I agree. I've resisted this for a long time but I decided to go for it and see how it does. Hopefully my daughter will forgive me if it blows up. Lol
I assume you can only put the batteries outside if you are in an area that doesn't see harsh winters! I also assume the batteries have heaters in them for cold wheather. I am curious to know where the dividing line is as to whether they should be used outside or not. Something along the lines of if you have snow on the ground for more than a week each year put you batteries inside!
Had the same thoughts and concerns, but i guess you could dress up the area (hide the metal boxes that will most likely rust) by building a mini storage shed that is insulated but still include battery heaters.
Thanks for the video. Love your content. I inspect large solar projects all over North America. From time to time I see Polaris taps (multi-taps) used to combine ground wires. This is not allowed per UL467. I spoke to the engineer in charge of multi-taps at Polaris and he said the taps blew off the wires when UL tested them. Also, some multi-taps are not rated for outdoor use.
Why did you place the sol-ark and battery so close to the panels, when you convert it to 120/240 your amps go up so now you need much larger wire to run to the house raising the cost due to wire by about $500-1k. I'm not criticizing, more asking. Amazing job in the install, looks fantastic!
I love to see an episode integrating existing grid tie inverters with hybrid inverters/batteries. I'm aware of two companies that do this and I love to see an installation showing this application of solar.
@@engineer775 any examples other than micro-inverters? I see that several manufactures utilize the generator port. I assume that is what you are doing a similar procedure?
Isn't it the truth? I just started tinkering with solar, starting with an Ecoflow DP3 system. For testing, I want to power a 300 watt load sometimes, just during daytime. I'm up to 790 watts of panels and it's not quite enough. I've seen them make up to 645 watts. Averages more like 575 when lit. I never realized how many puffy little clouds move in front of the sun on what I thought were bright, sunny days, to cut down on output. I'm still using more over a day than I make. I went from 98% battery down to 91% in about 5 hours. Need more panels! With neighbor's trees, etc., I doubt I could run my house on solar with the panels that would fit and not be shaded.
Besides bolting the SolArch to the 3R cabinet. I noticed you didn't use Myers hubs on the conduit connections. As a result. You have multiple points where moisture can ingress... My recommendation is to install a roof with walls that envelope the top and sides to direct water away from the potential problem area.
I'm in awe of how far the industry has come in a few short years. Heated outdoor battery cabinets with tilt-adjustable solar and rugged outdoor inverters with integrated grid pass through? As frustrating as the industry can be, wow, it's come so far so fast.
I likely would have avoided putting your expensive items outside for a lot of different reasons. Also depending on weather you will be giving up a lot of power forcing those batteries to heat themselves. You also spent a lot of extra money and cost in trenching and running a lot of really heavy cable. Also if the weather is bad you won't have easy access to the inverter or the batteries. I understand your thoughts but also lifepo4 is super safe.
Broad River Electric Co-op just instigated that same rate structure. Still waiting to hear from you on the system you quoted for me. I want to avoid that time of use charge as well.
@@Premier-Media-Group everybody says this but the amount of moment at the base of those posts as you go higher is exponential. These are gigantic sails in the wind and these single post arrays get to a point where they're just going to fold at the bottom if you do that. That's why most carports with post this small have to have two rows of posts. The carports with single posts and cantilevered solar require more cost in concrete ballast and rebar than the The cost of the carport material.
How about the temperature range out there? I think the Sol-Ark is good within -25 to 55 C, so that shouldn't be an issue. But, what about the batteries? EDIT: And, is that 4/0 wire running from the meter to the Sol-Ark and then back to the panel? That must have cost a bit (and been fun to run).
Here are the temperature specifications for the batteries. Charge Temperature Min: 4°C (39.2°F) | Max: 52°C (125.6°F) Discharge Temperature Min: -17°C (1.4°F) | Max: 52°C (125.6°F)
@@discoverenergysystems In another comment, Engineer775 said the batteries have heaters. I hope so (and I hope they're strong enough). Last winter here in Texas, I had to us a space heater in my garage when the outside temperature went to 5 degrees Fahrenheit.
In reading the documentation about the Discover battery cabinet, it mentioned keeping it out of the sunlight. I do notice it is placed in the shadow of the panel. Was this part of your plan to keep peak sun off the cabinet?
I like this setup with the battery next to the ground mount panels all outside. With the hybrid inverter also outside, it looks like your outside solar powerplant is AC coupled to the house by the inverter, and you probably have a large diameter cable to carry that current to the house. Could you share details on the cable sizing and run for that? Also, would there be any potential cost savings in using a just charge controller outside to fill the batteries and then sending high voltage DC to the house over a potentially smaller diameter cable to just an inverter to do the AC coupling at the house?
I'm in the process of planning out my utility shed for my property. Our utility says they have no plans to switch to Time of Use billing, but..... I don't believe that.
Love your videos and thank you so much for sharing. I'd like to ask a question to get your opinion. The Sol-ark 15k manual has a 200amp disconnect (doesn't say fused so I assume just an emergency style disconnect) between the inverter's grid input and the tap at the grid. I believe in your case you are double lugged at the transfer switch where the grid comes into the transfer switch and that's your tap - it makes sense. You have the 200 amp fused disconnect that is just downstream of the meter, and that's also in the Solark's manual - makes sense again - that's the main disconnect for power to the home in case of emergency. So this extra disconnect between grid input to inverter and grid tap, is that just for ease of killing the grid connection to the inverter and/or easier to swap/isolate the inverter if needed? I don't see any other reason to have it. If you do have it, then if you need to swap the inverter, you simply throw the transfer switch to have grid power straight to your panel, turn off that disconnect and you have the whole Solark isolated from grid, do the swap or maintenance of whatever. If you don't have that disconnect then you would need to turn off the main disconnect, lose power for a moment (assuming the inverter's load output is not powering the panel because there's something wrong with the inverter - hence the need to work on it/swap it) disconnect the inverter's grid input wires and tape them up, then turn the main disconnect back on and hit the transfer switch. Did I get that right? Some other manuals for other inverters have the same disconnect, fused, and mounted outside that serves as the :PV Interactive Disconnect", and that's right next to the main disconnect. It may be now required by new codes? But honestly if you turn off the main fused disconnect (one right after the meter) then doesn't that accomplish the same thing, protecting line workers/first responders? And if there is a rapid shut down switch, that would kill power to the rest of the system (inverter would shut down power the main panel, shut down PV if equipped with RSD, and shut down batteries if they have that feature). Just curious your opinions. Thank you! Great videos!
Give me the unit to direct leak exposed the weather. Would you consider a Shed build. In this case, I'm talking about the square in closure that 1 side comes off. Either he understood or was scrubs or whatever around the batteries and inverter. When you need to service, take off the one side and rock off the 3 sides and top to the side. Do your service rocket back on and put the sad on. Of course, you'd have to have some stabilization. So that weather didn't push the shed around
I swear the code writers never leave CA. Tossing them outside is all fine for the south, but in the north battery heaters will need to run like crazy to keep things warm.
@@scotanderson6857 Kills the ROI. Been looking to do a battery system for peak shaving. Now that Michigan is on the 2023NEC they are already adding 1k+ to an install if you want to do it on the up and up. From requiring fused disco's instead of breaker based disconnects, GFI, and AFCI breakers on nearly every circuit.
As if getting solar to work in my region isn't difficult enough, let's add cost and complexity to the process. I'd prefer to add a fire rated enclosure to my house similar to that required for interior backup generators.
Are you not commissioned as of yet to sell to grid, or is it a purely zero-export? I'm still doing zero-export because the base connection cost ends up quadrupling for me to even be able to sell to grid while limiting your array to 8kW. It made more sense to invest that in batteries for me, then I would have a good backup power source too. The case for net-metering has only gotten worse, I almost think the power companies are trying to put themselves out of business.
@@captainobvious9188 interconnections on this co-op are ridiculous as they charge $7.50 per watt per month to be connected to them and they only give you .059 and charge you $0.16 per kilowatt hour.
Couldn’t you put that battery cabinet under the solar array? I was looking for you about the solar for the water heater, how many panels and what wattage do I need. Looking ate a solar tracker to run it?
What is the brand/make and spec on the 28 pv panels you installed? I believe you have two 28-panel arrays. Since you're using Sol Ark, that means string inverters as opposed to micro inverters. The 18k EG4 has effectively 3 built-in string inverters. So I'm wondering how many panels you have in a string? Thanks for any details you can provide! -John.
I have the eg4-18k and outdoor rated power pro. Would you recommend putting this outside vs inside? Would like more info on the details you mentioned early in the video
We replace alot of inverters in Texas when they are in the sun. Curious if batteries work good on this . Discover expensive last time i priced them. Dang ?? Code on this one seems may need disconnect when go in house on that side also. To many rules. 4 sure..maybe ok as inverters in site and breakers on it
@@engineer775 thanks for replying, I just looked it up! It’s hard to tell on the website how far off the ground the bottom of the panels are and how much land needs to be cleared. We have a lot of trees.
i like the idea of all the stuff not being in the house but a lot of money sitting out in your yard for someone to steal. can i get the address of the install 😁😁
When vehicles are outside, those will always be the first to go. This would be so much harder to steal than a car. I'd still like some security around it, but I would guess this would be low on a list for a thief compared to vehicles. It also looks like they're in a pretty rural area, and that is generally a bit scarier for thieves than urban locations due to certain variables.
I know the Sol-Ark is NEMA 3R/IP65 and exterior rated but practically how will the PCBs do living outside in the summer humidity? I'm debating on this very thing at the moment, build a shed or hang it on a meter pedestal outside.
Won't work anywhere in the north, Montana, Michigan, Maine, etc., nor in Canada. Unless you build an underground vault or cellar, store vegetables with the batteries, and they'll stay in the charging range year round. 😃
I think the jL35z would have been a better choice for the QT#7l batch combiner so that you could keep your water/carbon content below .37nano spects. Otherwise, the FTC/NIA people are going to freak and charge you multiple fines per quantum. Of course, you could just add a smoke grinder attachment with a chyron filter of 4 microns.
@@engineer775 Thank you for the reply. Guess that box in the shadow of the PV panels might help keep solar radiation ingress at bay. I've had to develop my own climate control system for banks of Pylontech batteries in confined enclosure, had issues both sides of the scale and live in quite a temperate zone.
It's a one time (per month) charge of $13 times the peak load in kilowatts (not kWh). If you use 10kw for 15 minutes (usually the minimum measurement period) or 24 hours it's the same price. Plus there's usually a small price per kWh on top of that, but much less than a typical kWh rate. Seems like a good way to make electric stoves extremely expensive. Traditional politics of electric vs gas aside, electric is the only one you can generate yourself onsite for as long as you need to.
@@mattv5281 Last year, from November through March, my electric heat pump would kick into defrost mode periodically (usually during the night when my batteries were flat and I was using grid power). That defrost cycle pulls something like 16kW for a few minutes. So, with that kind of load charge, my electric bill for each of those 5 months would be an additional $13/kW x 16kW = $208 higher. Or, roughly $1,000 more per year. Sure is great that the government incentivized people to switch from gas to electric. EDIT: And, this is in Texas.
I add solar to my daughter's new home and get to test out our latest creation.
Get a quote for the Discover lithium battery:
practicalpreppers.com/product/aes-rackmount-by-discover-energy/
Get a Sol-Ark 15k:
practicalpreppers.com/product/sol-ark-15k-120-240-208v-hybrid-solar-inverter-all-in-one-pre-wired-outdoor-rated/
Let's discuss your solar goals:
practicalpreppers.com/consultation/
Check out our DIY kits:
practicalpreppers.com/product-category/solar/diy/
A recommendation for bolting the inverter to the cabinet in the future - better to turn those bolts around (using carriage bolts) so that you don't have threaded bolt ends inside the wire chase. If you're worried about bolt access resulting in theft, use Huck-bolts (one has to cut them off to remove them).
Extremely well done design. Your daughter is a lucky person!
@@fredboone4158 Thank you it's fun to bless the children and at the same time have a cool r&d project. Lol
I love the peak charges! It pushed me off the grid! I had solar to supplement, when I got the peak from 4-8pm and 6-9 am,you realize you have to get by from 4pm tilll 9 am the next morning on storage, once you get that much storage and enough panels to run all your loads and guarantee a full pack at sunset, you can cut the cord.
From a security perspective, manufacturers need to start including alarm contacts - both in the inverter and the battery cabs. The Solark App could alert the install/customer about a tamper condition and let them react before it's all stripped and stolen. Failing that, installing door switches and dry contacts for an easy security integration.
Cell phone game camera aimed at the system will let you know if anyone approaches your panels.
Yep, in Africa that would have gone before he’d finished filming… 😐
Its crazy. In Zimbabwe that would be gone in 60 seconds 😂😂@____________________________.x
1:40 "We need to get the batteries out of the house." I was on the edge about this, but you've now convinced me getting the storage outside the envelope of the structure and then some is a good idea. I have to think insurers are spinning up on this topic.
simply love watching your projects, I've been a fan for many years now. I live in TX and have added solar and batteries to my home, wish I knew more about the programing of the system. 28 panels and 6 Enphase batteries. Thanks for the many years of prepping advice and videos.
Very lucky girl!! 👧🍀
I like the battery storage being away from the home.
i am not so sure about that. the battery is exposed to the heat and the cold that is for sure not good for longevity.
besides lifepo4 technology is pretty safe.
@ursodermatt8809 I agree, LFP in my home is preferred rather than exposed to temperature swings. My concrete basement seems totally fine.
Way to go dad. Good fit and system! Thumbs up 👍
Miss my dad so much😢😢😢. Enjoyed your video sir
Great to see innovation on your channel as codes sometimes force change, but you are taking the initiative and doing R&D.... Great installs and I have learned a lot. Good videos all around.
Great video, thanks for sharing. For some unknown reason I haven’t been getting your video alerts. Very nice system. Will have to look at the new equipment you are using. Currently window shopping for a battery storage system for family in Florida. The HOA restrictions are almost as crazy as the minimal size of the lots. Really like the idea of the batteries outside the home. Pondering how close they can be sited to the home. Wishing you and your family the best.
FYI in my opinion, the new guy doing the atlas survival shelter install videos sounds like you, even talks like you. Crazy 😝
Nice clean work well done lads...
I would recommend a solar split unit AC to be added to the house. I have my own sights set on the one EG4 has since I've seen reviews saying how well it performs using very little watts. This could be installed in the main living area of the house and actually just run alongside the existing unit on "normal" days which would take some pressure off the big unit and reduce consumption. Grid down, the big unit would stop but the split system would keep going, may not be enough to cool the entire house but at least the living area will be liveable (think indoor camping)! Just my 2 cents which happens to be the direction I am headed in myself with my own system.
Very professional setup. Just a tip, Micro Air doesn't recommend mounting their soft start upside down because of that gland connection. Putting it on its side or caulking the bajesus out of it might be a good idea.
Thanks for pointing that out
Looks Fantastic! I actually LOVE the all outside system
Hi. How have you been?
This is a great video that shows a bunch of the benefits of our AES RACKMOUNT batteries and the LYNK II with the relays. Thanks for sharing this!
Definitely a magnificent system. Still a little crazy putting the inverter and battery outside without rain protection
@@shawnstangeland3011 I agree. I've resisted this for a long time but I decided to go for it and see how it does. Hopefully my daughter will forgive me if it blows up. Lol
I assume you can only put the batteries outside if you are in an area that doesn't see harsh winters! I also assume the batteries have heaters in them for cold wheather. I am curious to know where the dividing line is as to whether they should be used outside or not. Something along the lines of if you have snow on the ground for more than a week each year put you batteries inside!
Had the same thoughts and concerns, but i guess you could dress up the area (hide the metal boxes that will most likely rust) by building a mini storage shed that is insulated but still include battery heaters.
Thanks for the video. Love your content. I inspect large solar projects all over North America. From time to time I see Polaris taps (multi-taps) used to combine ground wires. This is not allowed per UL467. I spoke to the engineer in charge of multi-taps at Polaris and he said the taps blew off the wires when UL tested them. Also, some multi-taps are not rated for outdoor use.
Why did you place the sol-ark and battery so close to the panels, when you convert it to 120/240 your amps go up so now you need much larger wire to run to the house raising the cost due to wire by about $500-1k. I'm not criticizing, more asking. Amazing job in the install, looks fantastic!
Looking really good 👍
I love to see an episode integrating existing grid tie inverters with hybrid inverters/batteries. I'm aware of two companies that do this and I love to see an installation showing this application of solar.
@@exploitthechildless1510 We have been doing this with enphase and solark for two years.
@@engineer775 any examples other than micro-inverters? I see that several manufactures utilize the generator port. I assume that is what you are doing a similar procedure?
I have 19kw in panels and 150kw in lithium and it's not enough. Always go with a lot bigger like 2x than what you think you would need
Isn't it the truth? I just started tinkering with solar, starting with an Ecoflow DP3 system. For testing, I want to power a 300 watt load sometimes, just during daytime. I'm up to 790 watts of panels and it's not quite enough. I've seen them make up to 645 watts. Averages more like 575 when lit. I never realized how many puffy little clouds move in front of the sun on what I thought were bright, sunny days, to cut down on output. I'm still using more over a day than I make. I went from 98% battery down to 91% in about 5 hours. Need more panels! With neighbor's trees, etc., I doubt I could run my house on solar with the panels that would fit and not be shaded.
Are either of you doing automatic load shedding, with something like a Span panel?
Nice setup. If I had to do my 6kw grid tie system over again, this would be a setup I'd would like to put in.
Besides bolting the SolArch to the 3R cabinet. I noticed you didn't use Myers hubs on the conduit connections. As a result. You have multiple points where moisture can ingress...
My recommendation is to install a roof with walls that envelope the top and sides to direct water away from the potential problem area.
@@Brood_Master It's all Myers hubs. I'm not sure what you can't see there.
I'm in awe of how far the industry has come in a few short years. Heated outdoor battery cabinets with tilt-adjustable solar and rugged outdoor inverters with integrated grid pass through?
As frustrating as the industry can be, wow, it's come so far so fast.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
I likely would have avoided putting your expensive items outside for a lot of different reasons. Also depending on weather you will be giving up a lot of power forcing those batteries to heat themselves. You also spent a lot of extra money and cost in trenching and running a lot of really heavy cable. Also if the weather is bad you won't have easy access to the inverter or the batteries. I understand your thoughts but also lifepo4 is super safe.
Broad River Electric Co-op just instigated that same rate structure. Still waiting to hear from you on the system you quoted for me. I want to avoid that time of use charge as well.
Grid Down!
Solar Up!
Did you make provisions to charge from grid during off-peak hours in the event you hit a cloudy stretch?
Those arrays would have made a great carport or shed if the posts were a tad bit higher
yes, i always wonder why the "engineer" does not combine that. two flies with one stroke. just needs a little bit foresight though
@@Premier-Media-Group everybody says this but the amount of moment at the base of those posts as you go higher is exponential. These are gigantic sails in the wind and these single post arrays get to a point where they're just going to fold at the bottom if you do that. That's why most carports with post this small have to have two rows of posts. The carports with single posts and cantilevered solar require more cost in concrete ballast and rebar than the The cost of the carport material.
@@engineer775 makes sense.
How about the temperature range out there? I think the Sol-Ark is good within -25 to 55 C, so that shouldn't be an issue. But, what about the batteries?
EDIT: And, is that 4/0 wire running from the meter to the Sol-Ark and then back to the panel? That must have cost a bit (and been fun to run).
Very interested
Here are the temperature specifications for the batteries.
Charge Temperature Min: 4°C (39.2°F) | Max: 52°C (125.6°F)
Discharge Temperature Min: -17°C (1.4°F) | Max: 52°C (125.6°F)
@@discoverenergysystems In another comment, Engineer775 said the batteries have heaters. I hope so (and I hope they're strong enough). Last winter here in Texas, I had to us a space heater in my garage when the outside temperature went to 5 degrees Fahrenheit.
In reading the documentation about the Discover battery cabinet, it mentioned keeping it out of the sunlight. I do notice it is placed in the shadow of the panel. Was this part of your plan to keep peak sun off the cabinet?
any concerns with over heating batteries outside? any fans / cooling in the rack?
When I'm ready, and I hope it's soon, I'll be reaching out to for a project in NC.
@@lordgreyghostofxrp5175 just let us know as we are now licensed in North Carolina.
I like this setup with the battery next to the ground mount panels all outside. With the hybrid inverter also outside, it looks like your outside solar powerplant is AC coupled to the house by the inverter, and you probably have a large diameter cable to carry that current to the house. Could you share details on the cable sizing and run for that?
Also, would there be any potential cost savings in using a just charge controller outside to fill the batteries and then sending high voltage DC to the house over a potentially smaller diameter cable to just an inverter to do the AC coupling at the house?
Interesting Video. What happens for properties without as much land? Are they not going to be allowed to install solar?
Have you thought about doing a mini split on the living room area so if you need to drop load you don’t loose all your cooling capacity?
I'm in the process of planning out my utility shed for my property. Our utility says they have no plans to switch to Time of Use billing, but..... I don't believe that.
My local utility is against time of use, big state wide corporations are pushing it through the legislature that it will be required for all.
Could you also build a “shed” and add a tiny heat pump to that shed to give it some climate control? Demand charges are coming for everyone. :(
Love your videos and thank you so much for sharing. I'd like to ask a question to get your opinion. The Sol-ark 15k manual has a 200amp disconnect (doesn't say fused so I assume just an emergency style disconnect) between the inverter's grid input and the tap at the grid. I believe in your case you are double lugged at the transfer switch where the grid comes into the transfer switch and that's your tap - it makes sense. You have the 200 amp fused disconnect that is just downstream of the meter, and that's also in the Solark's manual - makes sense again - that's the main disconnect for power to the home in case of emergency. So this extra disconnect between grid input to inverter and grid tap, is that just for ease of killing the grid connection to the inverter and/or easier to swap/isolate the inverter if needed? I don't see any other reason to have it. If you do have it, then if you need to swap the inverter, you simply throw the transfer switch to have grid power straight to your panel, turn off that disconnect and you have the whole Solark isolated from grid, do the swap or maintenance of whatever. If you don't have that disconnect then you would need to turn off the main disconnect, lose power for a moment (assuming the inverter's load output is not powering the panel because there's something wrong with the inverter - hence the need to work on it/swap it) disconnect the inverter's grid input wires and tape them up, then turn the main disconnect back on and hit the transfer switch. Did I get that right? Some other manuals for other inverters have the same disconnect, fused, and mounted outside that serves as the :PV Interactive Disconnect", and that's right next to the main disconnect. It may be now required by new codes? But honestly if you turn off the main fused disconnect (one right after the meter) then doesn't that accomplish the same thing, protecting line workers/first responders? And if there is a rapid shut down switch, that would kill power to the rest of the system (inverter would shut down power the main panel, shut down PV if equipped with RSD, and shut down batteries if they have that feature). Just curious your opinions. Thank you! Great videos!
Thanks i love this channel
LOVE This❤
nice to see a nice package for matteries outside that cabinet work up in Minnesota
@@royamberg9177 Minnesota sure would be one of the ultimate tests for this system.
it have a heater built into it
Give me the unit to direct leak exposed the weather.
Would you consider a Shed build. In this case, I'm talking about the square in closure that 1 side comes off. Either he understood or was scrubs or whatever around the batteries and inverter. When you need to service, take off the one side and rock off the 3 sides and top to the side. Do your service rocket back on and put the sad on. Of course, you'd have to have some stabilization. So that weather didn't push the shed around
I'm really interested your thoughts on Sodium Ion batteries, especially now that Natron will be manufacturing in the US.
Can you set up the battery cabinet to be heated during the winter? I live in a cold, high altitude area and would need that.
I swear the code writers never leave CA. Tossing them outside is all fine for the south, but in the north battery heaters will need to run like crazy to keep things warm.
Small underground bunker matbe?
@@scotanderson6857 Kills the ROI. Been looking to do a battery system for peak shaving. Now that Michigan is on the 2023NEC they are already adding 1k+ to an install if you want to do it on the up and up. From requiring fused disco's instead of breaker based disconnects, GFI, and AFCI breakers on nearly every circuit.
As if getting solar to work in my region isn't difficult enough, let's add cost and complexity to the process.
I'd prefer to add a fire rated enclosure to my house similar to that required for interior backup generators.
Are you not commissioned as of yet to sell to grid, or is it a purely zero-export? I'm still doing zero-export because the base connection cost ends up quadrupling for me to even be able to sell to grid while limiting your array to 8kW. It made more sense to invest that in batteries for me, then I would have a good backup power source too. The case for net-metering has only gotten worse, I almost think the power companies are trying to put themselves out of business.
@@captainobvious9188 interconnections on this co-op are ridiculous as they charge $7.50 per watt per month to be connected to them and they only give you .059 and charge you $0.16 per kilowatt hour.
What is the actual formula for the time of use? $13/kW sounds insane.
Awesome system!
Scott, what happens to the batteries on a cold winter day?
There's an outfit called Ravolt that sells a similar set up, just not sure about keeping that high dollar equipment outside in the elements.
@@davidvelen9835 the cost and capability difference is significant
Couldn’t you put that battery cabinet under the solar array? I was looking for you about the solar for the water heater, how many panels and what wattage do I need. Looking ate a solar tracker to run it?
How would you EMP proof this setup?
Awesome!
Looks great but I guess it doesnt get too cold there. Not sure if that would be good for my climate. Cheers
What is the brand/make and spec on the 28 pv panels you installed? I believe you have two 28-panel arrays. Since you're using Sol Ark, that means string inverters as opposed to micro inverters. The 18k EG4 has effectively 3 built-in string inverters. So I'm wondering how many panels you have in a string? Thanks for any details you can provide! -John.
What about batteries in cold weather? Do they have heaters?
@@sellC1964 They have built in heaters.
did you say you ran 1" conduit? looked like you buried the wires directly in ground
How is that batterie system going to power all the house and get them recharged .
I need a system that I can go off grid for months if not years
Why are the relays on the battery and not on the inverter itself?
I have the eg4-18k and outdoor rated power pro. Would you recommend putting this outside vs inside? Would like more info on the details you mentioned early in the video
Did you say $13/kwh for peak heat of the day? What state is this?
The SolArk in the summer and the batteries in the winter, how does it handle the temps?
Yep. Up solar, down grid... :)
What does this kind of setup cost? Super interested in setup.
Did you add the microair smart start?
would an outdoor battery install work in a cold environment like Minnesota?
The question is: what will be the efficiency do the battery in winter when it’s very cold ?
We replace alot of inverters in Texas when they are in the sun. Curious if batteries work good on this . Discover expensive last time i priced them. Dang ?? Code on this one seems may need disconnect when go in house on that side also. To many rules. 4 sure..maybe ok as inverters in site and breakers on it
Love to know what solar mounts you used. That’s exactly what I need.
We use the Sinclair Sky Rack. You can find them on our website under solar mounting!
@@engineer775 thanks for replying, I just looked it up! It’s hard to tell on the website how far off the ground the bottom of the panels are and how much land needs to be cleared. We have a lot of trees.
How will placing the batteries outside like that affect their performance when it is really hot or cold out?
i like the idea of all the stuff not being in the house but a lot of money sitting out in your yard for someone to steal.
can i get the address of the install 😁😁
When vehicles are outside, those will always be the first to go. This would be so much harder to steal than a car. I'd still like some security around it, but I would guess this would be low on a list for a thief compared to vehicles. It also looks like they're in a pretty rural area, and that is generally a bit scarier for thieves than urban locations due to certain variables.
I know the Sol-Ark is NEMA 3R/IP65 and exterior rated but practically how will the PCBs do living outside in the summer humidity? I'm debating on this very thing at the moment, build a shed or hang it on a meter pedestal outside.
What would lightning strikes do to the batteries?
Won't work anywhere in the north, Montana, Michigan, Maine, etc., nor in Canada. Unless you build an underground vault or cellar, store vegetables with the batteries, and they'll stay in the charging range year round. 😃
@@anandrew6641 I understand. We have the Luna vault for that. That's my next project.
I know it’s code below 18”, but I would never run high voltage cables in the ground without being in conduit.
Does this system require internet full-time in order to operate
The batteries look like they are full really early in the day. Perhaps add more batteries?
looks Good
So how many kWh do you currently have in that cabinet?
is this system put back power to the grid
You’re a good dad!
I looked up the specs on those batteries. Kinda small in storage aren't they? Or am I missing something?
I think the jL35z would have been a better choice for the QT#7l batch combiner so that you could keep your water/carbon content below .37nano spects. Otherwise, the FTC/NIA people are going to freak and charge you multiple fines per quantum. Of course, you could just add a smoke grinder attachment with a chyron filter of 4 microns.
Hi, this $13 bucks per KwH what commpany is doing this? I need to see the details of it and how they work it out. many thanks.
Question @engineer775, is it technically possible to EMP harden CanadianSolar Bifacial panels on the solar panel rack using any products you sell?
Hows the thermal insulation in that box? Heat no good and low temps batteries won't charge
@@Kosmonooit The Discover AES batteries have built-in heaters. So this will be a good test this winter.
@@engineer775 Thank you for the reply. Guess that box in the shadow of the PV panels might help keep solar radiation ingress at bay.
I've had to develop my own climate control system for banks of Pylontech batteries in confined enclosure, had issues both sides of the scale and live in quite a temperate zone.
For me, it has to be a hybrid system to be truly usable.
confused that you cut down those cedars.
are they old battery's i see rust on them
My concern would be theft. If ever in a SHTF situation, all that gear could be stolen. 🤷♀️
What state are you in?
Nice. I like this type of battery cabinet setup over building a large solar shed.
will it be code to have batteries outside?
Basically is in Canada already. Limited size in garage or has to be outside.
Google NFPA 855
good install ---- $13 a kilo watt hour ?
It's a one time (per month) charge of $13 times the peak load in kilowatts (not kWh). If you use 10kw for 15 minutes (usually the minimum measurement period) or 24 hours it's the same price. Plus there's usually a small price per kWh on top of that, but much less than a typical kWh rate.
Seems like a good way to make electric stoves extremely expensive. Traditional politics of electric vs gas aside, electric is the only one you can generate yourself onsite for as long as you need to.
@@mattv5281 Last year, from November through March, my electric heat pump would kick into defrost mode periodically (usually during the night when my batteries were flat and I was using grid power). That defrost cycle pulls something like 16kW for a few minutes. So, with that kind of load charge, my electric bill for each of those 5 months would be an additional $13/kW x 16kW = $208 higher. Or, roughly $1,000 more per year. Sure is great that the government incentivized people to switch from gas to electric. EDIT: And, this is in Texas.
How many KW does that 5 ton A/C use? it seems you have enough battery for your 3 hour "rape" charge per kwh, that "fee" is mind boggling.